JP2000119931A - Bulking up woven fabric and bulky woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a bulking up woven fabric and bulky woven fabric for preventing flickering in dyed material of the bulky woven fabric using a differently shrinking composite yarn, especially in a deep color-dyed material. SOLUTION: This bulking up woven fabric is provided by constructing the woven fabric with a composite yarn of (A) a polyester thick and thin filament yarn having 10-50% boiling water shrinkage, >=1 denier single fiber fineness, 30-80×10-3 birefringence Δn of the thick part of the single fiber, 0.1-1.5 mm length of the thick part of the single fiber, >=350 number of thick parts per 1,000 mm and (3-7):(7-3) ratio of the thick and thin parts in a range of an optional length of the yarn with (B) a polyester filament yarn having -5 to 5% boiling water shrinkage, and <=2.5 denier single fiber fineness in 20-80 wt.% composite ratio of the yarn A. Also the bulky woven fabric is produced by heating for relaxing the above woven fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a bulky woven fabric obtained by using a differently shrinkable composite yarn to prevent irritability in a dyed product of the bulky woven fabric, and a bulky woven fabric obtained from the bulky woven fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is made into a woven fabric and subjected to a heat-relaxation treatment to shrink the yarn on the high shrinkage side constituting the mixed fiber yarn to form a core yarn. It is known to form a bulky woven fabric by forming a core-sheath structure in which the stretchable yarn is a sheath yarn. However, in the conventional polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, the high shrinkage yarn as the core yarn and the low shrinkage or elongation yarn as the sheath yarn have different dyeing properties and yarn designs due to different yarn making methods and original yarn designs. Gloss is different, and when dyed, a phenomenon called irritation due to a difference in dyeing property and a difference in gloss between the core and the sheath of the formed core and sheath structure occurs. In particular, the latter irritability based on the difference in gloss appears remarkably in dark dark colors such as black and dark blue.

In order to prevent irritation,
There is a method of sufficiently mixing and entangling the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage or elongation yarn to increase the degree of intermingling with the fibers. Increasing the degree of confounding is not preferable in terms of cost performance. There is also a method of using a highly shrinkable yarn having a strong dyeing property as a highly shrinkable yarn serving as a core yarn. However, depending on the filament form of the yarn, occurrence of irritation may not always be prevented.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester yarn which is mainly composed of a polyester fiber having different contraction and shrinkage when the high shrinkable yarn is thermally shrunk and the filaments are assembled into a core yarn. Focusing on the fact that the specular reflection increases and the luster appears strongly in the core yarn where the filaments are gathered, and that the luster is largely due to the fact that the luster is visible from the outer bent and bent sheath yarn or the gap between the sheath filaments, As a result of investigations to reduce the gloss of the core yarn, this has been achieved. An object of the present invention is to provide a bulky woven fabric and a bulky woven fabric using a different-shrinkage composite yarn, which prevent irritability in a dyed product of a bulky fabric, particularly a dark-colored dyed product.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a single fiber having a shrinkage factor of 10 to 50%, a fineness of a single fiber of 1 denier or more, a birefringence Δn of a thick portion of a single fiber of 30 to 80 × 10 ^-3 , The thickness of the thick part of the fiber is 0.1 to 1.5 mm, the number of the thick parts is 350 or more per 1000 mm, and the ratio of the length of the thick part to the thin part in an arbitrary length range of the yarn is 3 to 7. : 7-3
Polyester thick and thin filament yarn (A) having a boiling water shrinkage of -5 to 5% and a single fiber fineness of 2.
5 denier or less polyester filament yarn (B)
And a bulky woven fabric, wherein the woven fabric is composed of a composite yarn having a yarn (A) blending ratio of 20 to 80 wt%, and a bulky woven fabric obtained by subjecting the bulky woven fabric to a heat relaxation treatment ,It is in.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The polyester thick and thin filament yarn (A) of the present invention has a birefringence Δn of a thick portion of a single fiber of 30 to 80 × 10 ⁻³ and a length of a thick portion of a single fiber. 0.1-1.5mm, 1 thick part
350 or more per 000 mm, the ratio of the total length of the thick part and the thin part in an arbitrary length range of the yarn is 3 to
7: A thick and thin filament yarn having a thickness of 7 to 3 and having a shrinkage of boiling water of 10 to 50% and a single fiber fineness of 1 denier or more.

Thick and thin filament yarn (A)
The birefringent index Δn of the thick part of the single fiber is 30 to 80 × 10
^-3 , the length of the thick portion of the single fiber is 0.1 to 1.5 mm, the number of the thick portions is 350 or more per 1000 mm, and the ratio of the thick portion to the thin portion in an arbitrary length range of the yarn is 3 ~ 7:
When the thickness is 7 to 3, when the thick and thin filament yarn (A) thermally shrinks, an enlarged thickness unevenness and a micro crimp due to a difference in shrinkage behavior between the thick portion and the thin portion are generated, and the yarn is formed. It is suitable for reducing the specular reflection on the surface of the core yarn formed by the line (A). With the thick and thin filament yarn (A), the thick portion and thin portion of the ordinary thick and thin filament yarn, which has a long slab expression, cannot obtain micro crimp, and especially the thin portion becomes linear and glossy And cause irritation.

[0008] Thick and thin filament yarn (A)
If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 10%, the effect of swelling is weak when it is made into a composite yarn and it is made into a woven fabric, and if it exceeds 50%, the unevenness of processing inside and outside the wound yarn due to twist setting, dyeing, etc. of the composite yarn Occurs. On the other hand, if the single fiber fineness is less than 1 denier, the composite yarn will be lacking in firmness and stiffness when finally formed into a bulky fabric.

[0009] Such a thick and thin filament yarn (A) is prepared by, for example, preparing an undrawn polyester yarn at 100 ° C.
-Surface sliding friction at temperatures below the crystallization temperature is 4.0-6.
On a stretching roller of 0, the yarn is stretched at a draw ratio of 70% or more after the stretching at a natural draw ratio or less at a natural draw ratio or less. It is obtained by performing a heat treatment at a stretching ratio of 1.001 to 1.040 while running.

The polyester thick and thin filament yarn (A) of the present invention is obtained by adding titanium oxide to a reaction system for producing a polyester polymer as a polyester polymer of an undrawn yarn for obtaining the thick and thin filament yarn. It may be a thick and thin filament yarn containing 1 to 3 wt% of titanium oxide obtained by using the added polyester polymer.

[0011] Thick and thin filament yarn (A)
May be any polymer having ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and may be polyethylene terephthalate or a copolymerized polyester polymer mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units in which a third component is copolymerized.

The thick and thin filament yarn (A) of the present invention is a thick and thin filament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye or a thick and thin filament yarn easily dyeable with a disperse dye. It is preferable to further enhance the effect of preventing irritability in the above.

The cationic dye-dyeable thick and thin filament yarn is, for example, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 2-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, sodium 1,8-dicarboxynaphthalene-3-sulfonic acid salt as the third component, etc. Alternatively, a thick and thin filament yarn which is easily dyeable with a disperse dye is made of a copolymerized polyester polymer mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units in which a fatty acid such as adipic acid is copolymerized. Acid, 2,2-bis [4
-(2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane and the like, and a copolymerized polyester polymer mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units.

In the present invention, the polyester filament yarn (B) combined with the thick and thin filament yarn (A) has a boiling water shrinkage of -5 to 5% and a single fiber fineness of 2.5 denier or less. Is a so-called extensible yarn or low shrinkage yarn. If the boiling water shrinkage of the filament yarn (B) is less than -5%, a bulky woven fabric may be squeezed and hit by ironing, and if it exceeds 5%, it may lack a sense of deflection. On the other hand, if the filament fineness of the filament yarn (B) exceeds 2.5 denier, a bulky woven fabric having a soft texture cannot be obtained.

The polyester polymer constituting the filament yarn (B) may be any polymer having ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and may be polyethylene terephthalate or a copolymerized polyester polymer mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units copolymerized with a third component. It may be.

The filament yarn (B) in the present invention may be a filament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye or a thick and thin filament yarn.
It is preferable that the filament yarn (B) is a cationic dye dyeable filament yarn or a thick and thin filament yarn from the viewpoint of improving the effect of preventing irritability in the present invention.

The cationic dyeable filament yarn used as the filament yarn (B) is, for example, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 2-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 1,8-dicarboxynaphthalene-3- as a third component. It is composed of a copolymerized polyester polymer mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units in which a fatty acid such as sodium sulfonate or adipic acid is further copolymerized.

The thick and thin filament yarn used as the filament yarn (B) may be, for example, an undrawn yarn at 100 ° C. to a crystallization temperature, as in the case of obtaining the thick and thin filament yarn (A). The unstretched glass is drawn on a draw roller having a surface sliding friction of 4.0 to 6.0 at the following temperature at a draw ratio of not more than the natural draw ratio and a breaking elongation of the drawn yarn of 70% or more. While running on a heating body at a temperature equal to or higher than the transition temperature and equal to or lower than the crystallization temperature, 1.001 to
It can be obtained by heat treatment at a draw ratio of 1.040, but there is no particular limitation on the method for obtaining it.

The composite of the thick and thin filament yarn (A) and the filament yarn (B) in the present invention is as follows:
The thick and thin filament yarn (A) and the filament yarn (B) are formed by a compounding means by air jet treatment such as interlace processing and Taslan processing. In the present invention, the thick and thin filament yarn (B) is used. As long as the combination of A) and the filament yarn (B) is used, the combination can be performed by a composite means of plying and twisting.

The bulky woven fabric of the present invention is characterized in that the thick and thin filament yarn (A) and the filament yarn (B) are mixed to form a thick and thin filament yarn (A) having a mixing ratio of 20 to 80 wt%. The composite yarn is made. If the mixing ratio of the thick and thin filament yarn (A) is less than 20 wt%, the ratio of the core yarn formed when the heat-relaxation treatment is performed in the form of a composite yarn becomes low, and the bulky fabric lacks firmness and waist. If it exceeds 80% by weight, the ratio of the formed sheath yarn becomes low, and a swelling texture cannot be obtained.

Thick and thin filament yarn (A)
The composite yarn of the filament yarn and the filament yarn (B) may be in a non-twisted state, but the twist coefficient A (A = TD1 / ² , T: number of twisted yarns (times / m), D: denier ) Is preferably 23,000 or less. Twist coefficient A is 23000
If it exceeds, the binding force between the filaments is too strong, resulting in a woven fabric lacking extensibility.

The bulky woven fabric of the present invention is constituted by using a non-twisted or twisted composite yarn as a warp or a weft or as a warp and a weft. The bulky woven fabric of the present invention exhibits bulkiness when subjected to a heat-relaxation treatment. Therefore, a bulky woven fabric can be easily obtained by subjecting the bulky woven fabric of the present invention to a heat-relaxation treatment. The heat relaxation treatment is preferably performed under a moist heat of 110 to 130 ° C. This heat relaxation treatment may be performed in an independent step, or may be performed in a step such as high-temperature dyeing.

[0023] By the heat relaxation treatment, the composite yarn constituting the woven fabric shrinks the thick and thin filament yarn (A) in the longitudinal direction by heat to form a core yarn, and the filament yarn (B) becomes individual yarn. The filaments form a swollen sheath yarn, and the bulky effect gives the swollen texture to the bulky fabric.

In particular, the bulky woven fabric of the present invention can be used as a thick and thin filament when the thick and thin filament yarn (A) in the composite yarn constituting the woven fabric is thermally shrunk in its longitudinal direction to form a core yarn. Specular reflection on the surface of the core yarn due to the shortness of the yarn (A), the unevenness of the thickness of the thick part and the thin part which are highly dispersed, and the micro crimping due to the difference in shrinkage between the thick part and the thin part. Is reduced,
It prevents irritation between the core yarn and the sheath yarn when dyed. However, when the thick and thin filament yarn (A) is a normal thick and thin filament yarn, the thick portion and the thin portion are too long and the thin portion looks irritated. Is reflected to cause slab-like or marbling-like expressions.

In the bulky woven fabric of the present invention, when the thick and thin filament yarn (A) is a cationic dye dyeable or disperse dye easily dyeable filament yarn,
The bulky fabric is given a dark or dark color effect by dyeing with a cationic dye or a disperse dye, thereby making it more effective in preventing irritation. Further, when the polyester filament yarn (B) is a cationic dye dyeable filament yarn or a thick and thin filament yarn, it is effective for preventing irritation by a dark color effect or a light absorption effect.

[0026]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples.

Example 1 An undrawn yarn having a circular cross section of a single fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate was drawn on a drawing roller having a surface sliding friction of 4.0 to 6.0 at a temperature of 100 ° C.
The yarn is stretched at a draw ratio of not more than the natural draw ratio so that the breaking elongation of the drawn yarn is 70% or more, and the undrawn yarn is heat-treated at a draw ratio of 1.006 while running on a heating body at a temperature of 120 ° C. Thus, the boiling water shrinkage (BWS) of 23% of 100
A thick and thin filament yarn of d / 36f (single fiber fineness: 2.8 denier) was obtained.

This thick and thin filament yarn is
The birefringence Δn of the thick portion of the single fiber is 50 × 10 ⁻³ , the length of the thick portion of the single fiber is 0.1 to 1.5 mm, the number of the thick portions is 556 per 1000 mm, and the length of the yarn is arbitrary. The length ratio between the thick part and the thin part in the range was approximately 5: 5. This thick and thin filament yarn (A) and B
WS-2% 120d / 72f spontaneously extensible polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (B) is plied by a winder, twisted 1200 times / m by a double twister twisting machine, and dried at 60 ° C by a vacuum steam setter.
It was treated for 0 minutes and twist set.

The obtained composite yarn is used for warp and weft, and
It was woven into a satin fabric. The fabric is heated and relaxed at 120 ° C. for 30 minutes using a high-pressure liquid jet dyeing machine, an intermediate set at 190 ° C. for 25 seconds, an alkali weight reduction process at 98 ° C. for 60 minutes at a weight loss rate of 23%, and a high-pressure liquid. Dyeing with a disperse dye was performed sequentially at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes using a flow dyeing machine. The obtained bulky fabric is heat-relaxed, and the thick and thin filament yarn in the composite yarn shrinks in the longitudinal direction to form the core yarn and the spontaneously extensible filament yarn, forming a sheath yarn. It had a swelling texture.

(Comparative Example 1) In place of the thick and thin filament yarn (A) in Example 1, a BW 20% 75% / 36f high shrinkage polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn which is not a thick and thin yarn was used.
S-2% of a spontaneously extensible polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn of 120d / 72f (B) and a plying yarn, a twist yarn, weaving, and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1, and then shrinkage, a highly shrinkable polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn , The spontaneously extensible polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (B) forms a sheath yarn, and the filament yarn of the core yarn portion seen from the gap between the sheath yarns has a high gloss,
A bulky woven fabric with noticeable irritability was obtained.

(Example 2) An undrawn yarn made of a polymer obtained by copolymerizing 2.3 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 5 mol% of adipic acid with polyethylene terephthalate has a surface sliding friction of 4 at a temperature of 100 ° C. 0.0-6.
The stretched yarn is stretched on a stretching roller having a natural stretching ratio of not more than 70% and the breaking elongation of the drawn yarn is not less than 70%.
By performing a heat treatment at a draw ratio of 2 times, a 100 d / 36 f thick and thin filament yarn (single fiber fineness: 2.8 denier) of BWS 25% was obtained.

This thick and thin filament yarn is
The birefringence Δn of the thick part of the single fiber is 40 × 10 ⁻³ , the length of the thick part of the single fiber is 0.1 to 1.5 mm, the number of the thick parts is 615 per 1000 mm, and the arbitrary length of the yarn The length ratio of the thick portion to the thin portion in the range was approximately 6: 4. This thick and thin filament yarn (A),
BWS-2% 120d / 72f spontaneously extensible polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (B) was interlaced to form a composite, and then twisted 1200 times / m with a double twister twisting machine.

The obtained composite yarn is used for warp and weft, and
It was woven into a satin fabric. The fabric is heated and relaxed at 110 ° C. for 30 minutes using a high-pressure jet dyeing machine, an intermediate set at 180 ° C. for 25 seconds, an alkali weight reduction process with a 25% weight loss rate using a continuous weight loss machine, and high-pressure jet dyeing. Dyeing with a disperse dye was performed sequentially at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes using a machine. The bulky woven fabric obtained has a heat and relaxation treatment in which the thick and thin filament yarn in the composite yarn contracts in the longitudinal direction to form a core yarn and a spontaneously extensible filament yarn, forming a sheath yarn. Had a swelling texture.

[0034]

The bulky woven fabric comprising the hetero-shrinkage composite yarn of the present invention has no unevenness in gloss in dark dyeings such as black and dark blue, and has a swelling texture when expressing bulkiness. And it becomes a bulky fabric with a feeling of firmness and waist,
Further, when the thick and thin filament yarn in the composite yarn constituting the woven fabric is deeply dyed or metachromatic, a deep dyeing effect is added to the bulky woven fabric, which is less irritated and suitable as a fabric for clothing. is there.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D02G 3/04 D02G 3/04 F-term (Reference) 4L035 BB77 BB92 DD12 DD20 EE01 EE08 EE20 FF10 4L036 MA05 MA33 MA39 PA03 PA21 PA46 RA03 4L045 AA05 BA03 BA33 BA51 BA52 BA57 BA60 DA42 DA44 4L048 AA20 AA21 AA34 AA36 AA45 AA50 AB07 AB08 AB18 AC07 BA01 BA02 CA00 EB04 EB05

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. The shrinkage ratio of boiling water is 10 to 50%, the fineness of a single fiber is 1 denier or more, the birefringence Δn of the thick portion of the single fiber is 30 to 80 × 10 ⁻³ , and the length of the thick portion of the single fiber is 0.1
1.5mm, the number of thick parts is 35 per 1000mm
0 or more polyester thick and thin filament yarns (A) in which the length ratio of the thick portion to the thin portion in an arbitrary length range of the yarn is 3 to 7: 7 to 3;
The polyester filament yarn (B) having a denier of 5 to 5% and a single fiber fineness of 2.5 denier or less is mixed with the yarn (A) having a mixing ratio of 20%.
A bulky woven fabric, wherein the woven fabric is composed of a composite yarn compounded at a ratio of up to 80 wt%. 2. The filament yarn of claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester thick and thin filament yarn (A) is a cationic dye dyeable or disperse dye easily dyeable filament yarn.
The bulky woven fabric according to the above. 3. Polyester filament yarn (B)
Is a thick and thin filament yarn.
Or the bulky woven fabric according to claim 2. 4. Polyester filament yarn (B)
The bulky woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein is a cationic dye-dyeable filament yarn. 5. The polyester thick and thin filament yarn (A) and the polyester filament yarn (B) are composited by plying or ply twisting. 5. The bulky woven fabric according to 4. 6. A bulky fabric obtained by subjecting the bulky fabric according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 to a heat-relaxation treatment.