JP2893511B2 - Textured fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a textured fabric and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, various methods for producing a strongly twisted crimped woven fabric using synthetic fibers, especially polyester fibers, have been proposed. However, in order to obtain an elegant and uniform crimped fabric comparable to natural fiber silk. Has not been reached. For example,
JP-A-23619 and JP-B-56-8140 propose a filament yarn for a strongly twisted crimped woven fabric in which the yarn density is increased by high-temperature heat treatment after spinning and drawing or during drawing. No. 1, the yarn density is 1.3.
80 g / cm ³ or more, birefringence Δn is 135 × 10 ⁻³ or less, Young's modulus is 60 to 100 g / d, stress peak temperature in dry heat contraction stress curve 11 is 100 ° C. or more, and yarn has a small peak height. Is used as a raw yarn for strong twisted yarn to produce a strongly twisted crimped woven fabric.

[0003] However, in these proposed techniques, twist set is difficult to work, and handling during weaving is difficult.
There are many problems such as horns and cracks on the woven fabric surface at the time of embossing, poor dimensional stability of the product, and the like. There are problems such as uneven width and uneven spots.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a crimped fabric having a uniform grain by a method different from the prior art, and to obtain such a crimped fabric without causing problems in production. I do.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a woven fabric comprising a polyester fine composite fiber having a modified polyester in a sheath portion and an unmodified polyester in a core portion and having a fineness in the fiber axis direction. A crimped fabric characterized by having a grain developed by relaxing treatment of the twisted yarn of the polyester thick conjugate fiber,

[0006] Polyester fine composite fibers having a fineness in the fiber axis direction, in which the modified polyester is disposed in the sheath portion and the unmodified polyester is disposed in the core portion, are twisted, set by twisting, woven and relaxed. A method for producing a crimped woven fabric.

The polyester thick and thin conjugate fiber constituting the grain fabric of the present invention must be a polyester conjugate fiber having a thickness in the fiber axis direction in which a modified polyester is disposed in a sheath portion and an unmodified polyester is disposed in a core portion. It is. As the modified polyester disposed in the sheath portion, a polyester having a main repeating unit of ethylene terephthalate whose dyeability has been modified such as imparting dyeability to a cationic dye or an acid dye or easy dyeability to a disperse dye is typical. Examples include modified polyester.

For example, the modified polyester dyeable with a cationic dye is a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with an acid-containing ester-forming compound such as a metal salt sulfonate group such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and sodium sulfonaphthalenedicarboxylic acid. Preferably, a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 1.5 to 3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is used.

The modified polyester which can be dyed with an acid dye includes
A modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with an amino alcohol such as N-alkyl-substituted diethanolamine or a base-containing ester-forming compound such as a tertiary amino-containing glycol, or a modified polyester of a homopolymer or copolymer blend of vinylpyridine is used.

As the modified polyester which is easy to disperse dye, a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with an ester-forming compound such as isophthalic acid, adipic acid or polyoxyalkylene glycol is used.

Examples of the unmodified polyester disposed in the core include polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate. Such an unmodified polyester may contain less than 5 mol% of a copolymer component or a blend component. Particularly preferably, polyethylene terephthalate is used.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned modified polyester which is dyeable with a cationic dye or an acid dye or easily dyeable with a disperse dye is preferably used as the modified polyester because of the ease of imparting multicolor expression. It may be a modified polyester modified in other functions such as conductivity and hydrophilicity.

It is preferable that the composite ratio of the sheath portion and the core portion occupying the fiber cross section in the polyester thick and thin composite fiber is 1/3 to 1/1 in terms of the sheath / core area ratio.
When the thickness of the sheath portion is too small, the coloring with the dye becomes lighter, and when the thickness is too large, it is difficult to obtain a thick and thin portion.

The cross-sectional shape of the polyester thick conjugate fiber of the present invention may be any one of a circular cross section, a triangular shape, a multi-lobed shape, a flat cross-sectional shape, and the like.
The number and the position are not particularly limited, but the fibers have a fineness in which the fineness changes in the fiber axis direction, so-called thick and thin.

[0015] Such a polyester thick conjugate fiber is manufactured as follows. That is, the modified and unmodified polyester is used as a sheath component and a core component, respectively, and spun to a predetermined composite ratio by a known sea core composite spinning method to obtain an undrawn composite fiber having a sea core structure, and the undrawn composite fiber is drawn. Then, the fineness is changed in the fiber axis direction to obtain a thick fiber. As the undrawn conjugate fiber, in order to form a good thick and thin, the spinning speed is from 1500 to 2500 n / min.
It is preferable that the unstretched conjugate fiber obtained in the above is used.

In order to obtain a thick fiber, the undrawn conjugate fiber is subjected to semi-drawing at a ratio of about half of the maximum draw ratio of the fiber, preferably 0.45 to 0.60 times the maximum draw ratio. Preferably, the drawing is divided into two steps and the drawing is performed in two steps, thereby forming a thick line in the fiber axis direction. The degree of dispersion of the thick portion in the formation of the thick and thin portions, and the length and width of the thick portion are adjusted by setting an appropriate combination of the first-stage stretching and the second-stage stretching in the two-stage stretching. Stretch

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1.5 to 3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit is described. The polyethylene terephthalate is arranged in the core part, and the spinning speed is 1500 to 2500 m /.
The unstretched conjugate fiber obtained by spinning in min.
The film is stretched in two steps under the condition (4).

(1) MDR × 0.45 ≦ DR ₁ × DR
₂ (= TDR) ≦ MDR × 0.60 (2) MDR × 0.40 ≦ DR ₁ ≦ MDR × 0.55 (3) HRT ≦ Tc (4) Tg ≦ HPT ≦ Tc where MDR is the maximum stretching ratio, DR ₁ is the first-stage stretching ratio, DR ₂ is the second-stage stretching ratio, TDR is the total stretching ratio, H
RT indicates the first-stage stretching temperature (° C.), HPT indicates the second-stage stretching temperature (° C.), Tc indicates the crystallization temperature (° C.), and Tg indicates the glass transition temperature (° C.).

In the present invention, the woven fabric composed of the polyester thick conjugate fiber must be arranged in a state where the polyester thick conjugate fiber is at least twisted, preferably in the state of strongly twisted yarn, in order to develop a grain. There are, for example, a polyester twisted yarn or a strong twisted yarn of polyester thick conjugate fiber for the warp, a strong twisted yarn of the polyester thick conjugated fiber for the weft, or a strong twisted yarn of the polyester thick conjugate fiber for the warp,
It is woven by using a strong twisted yarn of an unmodified polyester fiber as a weft, or using a strong twisted yarn of a polyester thick composite fiber as a weft, or a sweet twisted yarn or a strong twisted yarn of an unmodified polyester fiber as a warp.

In particular, in the present invention, the woven fabric is a woven fabric in which the warp is a sweet twisted yarn or a strongly twisted yarn and the weft is a strongly twisted yarn, and is woven at least using a strong twisted yarn of a polyester thick conjugate fiber as the weft. Preferably, there is.

The twist yarn of the polyester thick conjugate fiber prior to weaving has a twist coefficient K represented by the following formula of 5,000 or more,
It is more preferable that the yarn is twisted to a twist number of 10,000 to 30,000 in view of the appearance of crimp. After twisting, the yarn is twisted and set by any known method. In addition, due to its structure and shape, it can be easily twisted and set. K = n × √d where n is the number of twists (times / m = T / M) and d is denier

The crimped woven fabric of the present invention has a crimp developed by the relaxation treatment because the polyester thick conjugate fiber is twisted, preferably strongly twisted. It is preferably performed by relaxing a woven fabric which is preferably in a strongly twisted state to untwist a part of the twisted yarn.

The relaxation treatment is performed in hot water and may be carried out as an independent treatment. However, without independent relaxation treatment, after scouring with a scouring agent, weight reduction with caustic soda, dyeing with a disperse dye, etc. It may be performed in combination with the relaxation process in a process in which grain is substantially developed under the hot water conditions of the high temperature bath in the processing process, or may be performed stepwise in the series of post-processing processes as described above including the relaxation process. Good.

As described above, the crimped woven fabric of the present invention is produced by twisting polyester thin composite fibers, setting them by twisting, weaving, and relaxing. By using the conjugate fiber, in the weaving process, the strong twisted yarn in the conventional crimped woven fabric is difficult to warp and handle during weaving because it is difficult for the twisting set to be effective, whereas the strong twisted yarn is strongly twisted. Also, the twist set easily works, and there is almost no problem in warping and weaving.

In the relaxation treatment, the grain can be easily developed. For example, in the conventional grain fabric, the grain is uneven, the width is uneven, the step is wrinkled, the horn, the bakuhatsu, the ground crack and the grain are graded in Chilmen. Irregularities, uneven widths, and georgettes often cause production problems such as uneven widths, wrinkles, color steps, etc., but grain can be expressed extremely stably.

[0026]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples.

(Example 1, Comparative Examples 1 to 3) A cationic dye dyeable polyester obtained by copolymerizing 3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with polyethylene terephthalate is used as a sheath component, and polyethylene terephthalate is used as a core. Spun into a circular cross-section with a sheath component / core component = 1/2 and semi-stretched, and the two thick and thin semi-dull 100d / 48f thick fine composite fiber filament yarns obtained by spinning together are used as a component. After winding, the yarn was twisted with a twist number of 2600 T / M with a double twister, twist-set at 70 ° C., and used as a weft, and woven under the following conditions (1).

Weaving conditions (1): Warp: polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn semi-dal 50d / 36f, 300T / M (S twist), 75 yarns /
4 yarns / size Weft: 100d /
48 f 2 pcs, 2600 T / M (S twist, Z twist), 6 alternate 95 pcs / dim

As Comparative Example 1, a semi-dal 100d / 48f filament yarn having a circular cross section obtained by spinning and stretching polyethylene terephthalate and heat-treating at 130 ° C.
After panwinding the two pieces together, they were twisted with a double twister to a twist number of 2600 T / M, and twisted and set at 85 ° C., and used as a weft, and woven under the following conditions (2).

Weaving conditions (2): Warp: same as in condition (1) Weft: Polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn semi-dual 100d / 48f, 2600 T / M (S twist, Z
Twisted), 6 alternating 95 / dimension

As a comparative example 2, three filaments of semi-dal 75d / 36f made of polyethylene terephthalate and having a circular cross section of 75d / 36f were combined and patwound, twisted to 2500T / M with an up twister, and twisted at 90 ° C. After setting, further sizing and twisting, it was used as a weft and woven under the following condition (3).

Weaving conditions (3): Warp: Same as in condition (1) Weft: Three polyethylene terephthalate filament yarns, 75 d / 36 f, 2500 T / M (S twist, Z
Twisted), 6 alternates 80 / dimension

As Comparative Example 3, the boiling water shrinkage rate was set to 2. by the relaxation heat treatment in the spinning and drawing steps of polyethylene terephthalate.
After 2 filaments of semi-dal 100d / 48f having a circular cross section of 5% were combined and pirn-winded, twisted with a double twister to a twist number of 2600 T / M, twisted and set at 85 ° C, and used as a weft. It was woven under the following condition (4).

Weaving condition (4): Warp: Same as condition (1) Weft: Polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn semi-dal 100d / 48f, 2600T / M (S twist, Z
Twisted), 6 alternating 95 / dimension

Each woven fabric was subjected to the following post-processing steps to obtain a textured fabric. Post-processing: raw machine → scouring (boiling water) → relaxing treatment (1
10 ℃) → intermediate set (dry heat 190 ℃) → weight reduction processing (1
00 ° C) → dyeing (130 ° C) → finishing set (dry heat 17)
0 ℃)

As shown in Table 1, the grain fabric obtained according to the present invention has a good grain quality, is stable in weaving properties, and has good grain standing in post-processing steps. It was also advantageous in terms of cost. Comparative Example 1
Table 1 also shows the results according to Nos. 1 to 3.

[0037]

[Table 1]

Example 2 A cationic dye dyeable polyester obtained by copolymerizing 3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with polyethylene terephthalate is used as a sheath component, polyethylene terephthalate is used as a core component, and a sheath component is used. / Core component = 1/2 spinning in circular cross section,
Semi-dal 100d with a short and highly dispersed thick part obtained by semi-stretching
/ 48f thick and thin composite fiber filament yarn with a twist of 200
After twisting at 0 T / M and twist-setting at 70 ° C., it was used as warp and weft, woven into a plain fabric under the following conditions, and subjected to the following post-processing steps to obtain a crimped fabric.

Weaving conditions: Warp: 100 d /
48f, 2000T / M (S twist, Z twist), two alternate 75
Feather / 2pcs / dim Weft: 100d /
48f, 2000T / M (S twist, Z twist), alternate two
2 / dimension

Post-processing step: greige → scouring (boiling water) → relaxation treatment (110 ° C) → intermediate set (dry heat 190 ° C) →
Weight reduction processing (100 ° C.) → dying (130 ° C.) The textured fabric obtained by the present invention had a good grain quality, and did not show any grain spots, irregular widths, grain steps, or cracks.

(Example 3) A cationic dye dyeable polyester obtained by copolymerizing 2.25 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 5.0 mol% of adipic acid with polyethylene terephthalate was used as the sheath component. Is used as the core component, and the thick component obtained by spinning and semi-drawing a circular cross section at sheath component / core component = 1/1 is used to obtain a thick 150d / 48f thick fine composite fiber filament yarn with a twist number of 2,000 T / M. After twisting and setting by twisting at 70 ° C., it was used as a weft, woven under the following conditions, and subjected to the following post-processing steps to obtain a crimped fabric.

Weaving conditions: Warp: polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn semi-dull 100d / 36f, 300T / M (S twisted), 70 blades / 3 yarns / dimension Weft: thick and thin composite fiber filament yarn bright 150d /
48f, 2000T / M (S twist, Z twist), alternate 80
Book / size

Post-processing step: greige → scouring (boiling water) → relaxation treatment (110 ° C) → intermediate set (dry heat 190 ° C) →
Weight loss processing (100 ° C.) → dyeing (130 ° C.) The grain fabric obtained according to the present invention had good grain quality, and no grain spots, irregular widths, grain steps, and cracks were not observed.

[0044]

The grain fabric of the present invention has a uniform grain and good grain quality as compared with the grain fabric using the conventional polyester fiber. There is no problem in the weaving process for woven fabrics,
Also in the post-processing step of the grain standing, there are no grain spots, uneven widths, grain steps, squeaks and the like, and it can be obtained with good stability without causing problems in production.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-B Hei 1-23578 (JP, B2) JP-B Hei 1-37512 (JP, B2) JP-B 63-12190 (JP, B2) (58) Field (Int.Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D03D 15 / 00,15 / 04

Claims (6)

(57) [Claims] 1. A woven fabric comprising a polyester thick and thin conjugate fiber having a modified polyester in a sheath portion and an unmodified polyester in a core portion and having a thickness in the fiber axis direction. A textured fabric having a texture developed by a relaxation treatment. 2. The crimped woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the twisted yarn of the polyester thick and thin conjugate fiber is twisted in a number of twists such that the twist coefficient K represented by the following formula is 5000 or more. K = n × √d where n is the number of twists (times / m = T / M) and d is denier 3. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the warp is a sweet twisted yarn or a strongly twisted yarn and the weft is a strongly twisted yarn, and at least the weft is a strong twisted yarn of a polyester thick conjugate fiber. A textured fabric according to the description. 4. A polyester thick and thin composite fiber having a thickness in the fiber axis direction in which a modified polyester is disposed in a sheath portion and an unmodified polyester is disposed in a core portion, twisted and set, then woven and relaxed. A method for producing a crimped fabric. 5. The method for producing a crimped woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein the polyester thick and thin conjugate fiber is twisted into a twisted number having a twist coefficient K represented by the following formula of 5000 or more. K = n × √d where n is the number of twists (T / M) and d is denier 6. The woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein the weaving is carried out using at least a weft yarn of a polyester thick conjugate fiber.
The method for producing a textured fabric according to the above.