US20230134695A1

US20230134695A1 - Elastic fabric and process of preparation

Info

Publication number: US20230134695A1
Application number: US17/970,860
Authority: US
Inventors: Erdogan Baris Ozden; Ertug Erkus; Mustafa Zeyrek; Fatma Korkmaz
Original assignee: Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi ve Ticaret AS
Current assignee: Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi ve Ticaret AS
Priority date: 2015-03-26
Filing date: 2022-10-21
Publication date: 2023-05-04
Also published as: JP2018510972A; CN107075751B; PL3227483T3; PT3227483T; DK3227483T3; ES2785632T3; EP3227483B1; WO2016151149A1; JP6979873B2; US20180298527A1; US20160281275A1; EP3227483A1; BR112017005424B1; US11111609B2; BR112017005424A2; CN107075751A

Abstract

The disclosure provides a woven fabric, wherein all warp and weft yarns may be elastic. One or more of the weft and warp yarns may have a stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that may be less elastic than said first fiber. The elastic warp yarns may have a twist level with a twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to 6. In embodiments, a woven fabric may include all warp and weft yarns being elastic, all weft and warp yarns having a stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than said first fiber, and the elasticity of the fabric in warp direction is at least 25% and elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_weft) is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably 40%. In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction may be at least 25%.

Description

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims priority to and is a continuation of U.S. Application No. 14918077 filed with the United States Patent Office on Oct. 20, 2015, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. This application claims priority to European Patent Application No. EP15161213, filed with the European Patent Office on Mar. 26, 2015, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. This application claims priority to U.S. Application No. 15526973, Pat. No. 11/111,609, issued by the United States Patent Office on Sep. 7, 2021, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
Suitable elastic core spun yarns may be those disclosed in WO2012/062480, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present disclosure relates to the manufacture of woven fabrics with stretch in warp and weft direction. It specifically relates to stretchable fabrics including a core spun yarn system and to a process for the preparation thereof.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Elastic woven fabrics have been produced for many years. In order to produce elastic fabrics, elastic yarns are used. In these kinds of fabrics, elastic yarns provide both aesthetic, and elasticity functions. The most common way of producing stretch fabrics is weft-stretch fabrics. Weft-stretch fabrics have non-elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns. In these fabrics different kinds of elastic weft yarns such as, but not limited to corespun elasthane yarns, twisted elasthane yarns, etc. are used. However, weft-stretch fabrics are not stretchable along the warp direction. Such fabrics are usually comfortable, but their comfort level is not enough during long usage times, as they do not follow the movements of the body.
In order to solve this problem, several alternative types of fabrics have been developed, for example warp-stretch fabrics, and the so called “bi-stretch” fabrics, i.e. fabrics that can be stretched in both the weft and warp directions. This bidirectional stretchability, i.e. ability to be elongated, is obtained by including elastic yarns in both the warp and weft directions.
However, these kinds of fabrics also present drawbacks.
Warp-stretch fabrics, for example, when comprising bare elastomeric ends, can present grin-through of the elastomer, i.e. the exposure, in a fabric, of bare elastomeric filaments to view. Grin-through can be observed as an undesirable glitter-like effect on the surface of the fabric. Therefore, some ways to control elasticity in bi-stretch fabrics have been devised.
US6659139 describes a way to reduce grin-through of bare elastomer fibers in the warp direction of twill fabric. The fabric disclosed in US6659139 can also have bidirectional stretch (warp and weft), but the percentage values of stretchability are poor.
Bi-stretch fabrics known in the art also have several problems, such as the growth of the fabric and little recovery after stretching.
WO2013/148659 discloses a woven fabric comprising a corespun elastic base yarn and a separate control yarn, to avoid overstretching. The control yarn is hidden inside the fabric by the adjacent elastic corespun base yarns.
A stretch fabric with a separated elastic yarn system is disclosed in US7762287, wherein a rigid yarn is used to form the main body of a fabric. Elastic composite yarns are hidden inside fabrics and provide for stretch and recovery. However, the fabric disclosed in US7762287 has reduced stretchability in the warp and/or weft direction.
US 2012/0244771 discloses elastic composite yarns having a stretchable core and a sheath of spun staple fibers; the core is made of an elastic filament and an inelastic filament that is loosely wound around the elastic filament to control the stretching. The above disclosed solution provides bi-stretch fabrics that have acceptable recovery characteristics but are provided with too low elasticity (i.e. stretch), namely about 10-12% in the warp direction and 17-20% in the weft direction.
WO20008/130563 discloses elastic yarns having a core made of an inelastic fiber loosely wound around an elastic fiber.
WO 2012/062480, in the name of the present applicant Sanko Tekstil, discloses elastic composite yarns having elastic stretchable core and a sheath of inelastic staple fibers; the core is made of an elastic filament and a less elastic filament attached together by coextrusion, intermingling, or twisting. The less elastic filament controls the stretch and provides recovery so as to move as a single fiber that has high elasticity and very good recovery properties.
Another problem is the poor behavior of highly elastic bi-stretch fabrics: after few stretch and return cycles, the known fabrics are not able to retain the original aspect. The fabrics lose their original hand and appearance and show curling, creasing, and torqueing to such a degree that the garments made with said fabrics have to be discarded after a short time.
A problem of the known bi-stretch fabrics, for example denim fabrics, is that it is difficult to obtain a fabric with an appropriate balance of physical characteristics, suitable for garments able to combine desirable visual and tactile aesthetics, with good performance in stretchability, recovery (i.e. limited growth of the fabric after having been elongated or stretched), and comfort.
For example, fabrics with a high amount of elastic yarns can have the problem of loss of aesthetic, especially because of growth; on the contrary, fabrics with low values of elasticity can be uncomfortable in daily life. Additionally, prolonged usage of stretch fabrics can cause a loss in recovery power of the fabric, thus causing the growth of the fabric. Another problem of the known fabrics, for example denim fabrics, is the poor body holding, i.e. body shaping power.
The above problems of recovery power, comfort in use and holding/shaping power of the fabric are particularly present in the final garments that are styled in the so-called skinny or super-skinny models; i.e. models that require a total or almost total adherence of the garment to the body of the user.
In view of the above-mentioned problems, there is a need for new fabrics able to combine high elasticity in multiple directions and good aesthetics; for example, there is a need in the market for new fabrics having an improved holding power and recovery and reduced growth, combined with good visual and tactile aesthetics.
In particular, there is a need for new bi-stretch fabrics, for example denim fabrics, with an improved body holding power, having an improved recovery and reduced growth.
More specifically, there is a need of new bi-stretch fabrics, for example denim fabrics, with an improved body holding power and fabrics that can follow any body movement.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, “E_weft” and “E_warp” may respectively refer to the percentage of stretch in the weft and in the warp directions of the fabric, measured according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED (Stretch) after 3 home washes.
An aim of the present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art, providing a bi-stretch woven fabric that have an improved holding power, and that provide to the garments made with the fabric a great freedom of movement, thus avoiding the feeling of tightness and discomfort.
Another aim of the present invention is to provide a bi-stretch woven fabric that combines good performance, such as improved body holding/shaping power, improved recovery and reduced growth, with good aesthetics.
A further aim of the present invention is to provide a process for producing a bi-stretch woven fabric, as mentioned above.
Still a further aim of the present invention is to provide a clothing article comprising a bi-stretch woven fabric, as mentioned above.
These and other aims are achieved by a woven fabric according to claims, that can be produced by means of a process according to claims, and that can be used to provide a clothing article according to claims.
Therefore, an object of the present invention is a woven fabric having elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns, said yarns having a stretchable core and an inelastic fiber sheath that covers said core, characterized in that all weft and warp yarns have a stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than said first fiber, and in that the elasticity of the fabric in warp direction is at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes) and elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_weft) is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably 40% (ASTM D3107 — stretch, after 3 home washes).
Preferably, in a woven fabric according to the present invention, said first fiber and second fiber are connected together by intermingling, twisting, or coextrusion to control elongation of said first fiber.
In a particular embodiment, said woven fabric has elasticity in weft direction (E_weft) that is higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp).
Therefore, an object of the present invention is an elastic woven fabric in which all weft and warp yarns have a stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than said first fiber, said first fiber and second fiber are connected together by intermingling, coextrusion, or twisting to control elongation of said first fiber, and in which the elasticity of the fabric in warp direction is at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 -Stretch, after 3 home washes) and the elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_weft) is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40% (ASTM D3107 — stretch, after 3 home washes) and is the same or higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp). In other words, the fabric of the invention can stretch at least 25% in warp direction and at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40%, in weft direction when measuring according to ASTM D3107 (modified stretch after 3 home washes), as above mentioned.
In a preferred embodiment, the fabric undergoes finishing steps but does not undergo the usual heat setting treatment for elastic yarns. Heat treatment, i.e. heat setting of the fabric, is a well-known step of traditional processes of fabric preparation, used, for example, to give dimensional stability to the elastic fabric after weaving by heating the fabric to a setting temperature for the elastomers of the elastic core of the yarns. For example, the temperature for heat setting of lycra is about 180° C. Heat treatment at lower temperatures, as in sanforization, at about 110° C. is usually carried out in the present invention’s process. According to an aspect of the invention, elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) is at least 25%, and is preferably comprised in the range of 25% to 90%, preferably 30% to 90%, more preferably 30% to 60% (ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash) and elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40%. E_weft is preferably comprised in the range of 30% to 150%, preferably 30% to 140%, more preferably 35% to 125%, most preferably 40% to 125% (ASTM D1037 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash).
In an exemplary embodiment, the ratio E_weft /E_warp is in the range of 1.4/1.0 to 3.0/1.0, preferably 1.8/1.0 to 3.0/1.0.
In another exemplary embodiment, the ratio E_weft /E_warp is in the range of 0.4/1.0 to 4.0/1.0.
Suitable elastic core spun yarns are those disclosed in WO2008/130563 and in WO 2012/062480.
According to another aspect of the invention, the first fiber is a fiber that can stretch at least for 400% of its initial length, as elongation at break, and said second fiber is a fiber with elongation that is at least 20% of its initial length but less than the elongation of the first fiber, according to ASTM D3107. The first fiber and the second fiber are connected together as disclosed in mentioned applications, for example, as mentioned at pages 9 and 10 of WO 2012/062480.
In a preferred embodiment, the first and second fibers are intermingled and the number of connecting points is within the range of 50 to 200 points per meter. In another embodiment, first and second fibers are connected by twisting and the number of twists per meter is in the range of 200 to 600 twists per meter, preferably 300 to 600 twists per meter.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the core of the yarns is intermingled or twisted as per above, and the fabric is not a heat-set fabric, i.e. the fabric has not undergone a thermal treatment, as is generally done to set elasticity of the elastomeric fibers.
An elastic woven fabric according to the present invention has an excellent elastic behaviour; in particular, it is possible to use highly elastic yarns to obtain the claimed highly elastic fabric both warp and weft-wise, which was not possible with traditional fabrics and processes. An embodiment results in a fabric that can stretch up to 150% (ASTM D1037 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash), or, in possible embodiments even over 150%, weftwise, and that can return to its original shape after such a stretch. The fabric after the stretch is visually identical to the fabric before the stretch.
This is a very important advantage over prior art bi-stretch fabrics such as those disclosed in US 7762287. The prior art fabrics could not withstand a stretching action as high as that claimed, without said known fabrics suffering visual damages in the form of undulations or torqueing of the fabric.
A further advantage is that an elastic woven fabric having specific values of elasticity in the warp direction, as well as in the weft direction, shows an improved holding power (or shaping power); in particular, when the values of E_weft and E_warp are combined in a specific ratio. The present invention provides an elastic woven fabric, which comprises elastic yarns of the core spun type both warpwise and weftwise, so that all yarns of the fabric are elastic yarns. Preferably, in an exemplary embodiment, the fabric has specific values of elasticity and a specific ratio between E_warp and E_weft, i.e., E_warp is at least 25%, and E_weft is equal to or higher than E_warp. Preferably, E_weft is about twice the value of E_warp, thus providing an improved body holding power and improved movement skills, a reduced growth of the fabric, and of the garments comprising the same.
A process for preparing said elastic woven fabric is also an object of the present invention. Said process is characterized by comprising the steps of providing corespun warp yarns and weft yarns having a stretchable core and an inelastic fibers sheath that covers said core, said stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber less elastic than the first fiber; weaving said warp and weft yarns to provide a fabric where all warp and all weft yarns are said corespun yarns; and finishing said fabric to provide a fabric having elasticity in warp direction (Ewarp) that is at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes) and an elasticity in weft direction (Eweft) that is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40% (ASTM D3107 - stretch, after 3 home washes).
In particular, in a process according to the invention, said first fiber and second fiber are connected together by intermingling, coextrusion, or twisting to control elongation of said first fiber.
In an exemplary embodiment, said elasticity in weft direction (E_weft) is higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp).
Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized by comprising the steps of providing corespun warp yarns and weft yarns having a stretchable core and an inelastic fibers sheath that covers said core, said stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber less elastic than first fibers, said first fiber and second fiber are connected together by intermingling, coextrusing, or twisting, to control elongation of said first fiber; weaving said warp and weft yarns to provide a fabric where all warp and all weft yarns are said corespun yarns; and finishing said fabric to provide a fabric having elasticity in warp direction (E_warp) that is at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 —Stretch, after 3 home washes) and an elasticity in weft direction (E_weft) that is at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably 40% (ASTM D3107 - stretch, after 3 home washes) and that is the same or higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp).
In a preferred embodiment, the process of the invention does not include a step of heat setting of the fabric, i.e., the fabric of the invention does not undergo any heat treatment.
A further object of the present invention is a clothing article made of or comprising an elastic woven fabric according to the present invention.
The invention will be further disclosed with reference to the following figures that refer to exemplary and non-limiting embodiments and features of the invention.
In embodiments, the disclosure may provide bi-stretch woven fabrics with improved holding power. In embodiments, the fabric may provide, to garments made with the fabric, a great freedom of movement, thus avoiding the feeling of tightness and discomfort by a user.
In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a bi-stretch woven fabric that combines good performance, such as improved body holding/shaping power, improved recovery, and reduced growth with good aesthetics.
In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a process for producing a bi-stretch woven fabric, as mentioned above.
In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a clothing article comprising a bi-stretch woven fabric, as mentioned above.
In embodiments, these aims may be achieved by a woven fabric according to claims, that may be produced by means of a process according to claims, and that may be used to provide a clothing article according to claims.
In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a woven fabric having elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns, said yarns having a stretchable core and an inelastic fiber sheath that covers said core. In embodiments, all weft and warp yarns may have a stretchable core comprising a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than the first fiber. In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp) may be at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes) and the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction (E_weft) may be at least 25%. In embodiments, the elasticity may be at least 30%. In embodiments, the elasticity may be 40%. In embodiments, the elasticity may be more than 40% (ASTM D3107; stretch, after 3 home washes).
In embodiments, in a woven fabric, a first fiber and second fiber may be connected together by intermingling, twisting, and/or coextrusion in order to control elongation of the first fiber.
In a particular embodiment, said woven fabric may have elasticity in the weft direction that may be greater than the elasticity in the warp direction. In embodiments, said woven fabric may have elasticity in the warp direction that may be greater than the elasticity in the weft direction.
In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction may be at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes) and the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction (E_weft) may be at least 25% and may be the same or higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp). In embodiments, the elasticity may be at least 30% and may be the same or higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp). In embodiments, the elasticity may be at least 40% (ASTM D3107 - stretch, after 3 home washes) and may be the same or higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp). In other words, the fabric may stretch at least 25% in the warp direction and at least 25% in the weft direction or may stretch at least 30% in the warp direction and at least 30% in the weft direction or may stretch at least 40% in the warp direction and at least 40% in the weft direction when measuring according to ASTM D3107 (modified stretch after 3 home washes) as mentioned above.
In embodiments, the fabric may undergo finishing steps but may not undergo a heat setting treatment for elastic yarns. Heat treatment, i.e., heat setting of a fabric, is a well-known step of traditional processes of fabric preparation, used, for example, to give dimensional stability to the elastic fabric after weaving by heating the fabric to a setting temperature for the elastomers of the elastic core of the yarns. For example, the temperature for heat setting of Lycra (a registered trademark of Invista) is about 180° C. In embodiments, heat treatment at lower temperatures, such as sanforization at about 110° C., may be carried out in the process of the disclosure. In embodiments, elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) may be in the range of 25% to 90%. In embodiments, elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) may be in the range of 30% to 90%. In embodiments, elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) may be in the range of 30% to 60% measured according to (ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes). In embodiments, elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) may be in the range of 30% to 150%. In embodiments, elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) may be in the range of 30% to 140%. In embodiments, elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) may be in the range of 35% to 125%. In embodiments, elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) may be 40% to 125%. The stretch may be measured according to ASTM D1037 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes.
In an exemplary embodiment, the ratio E_weft/E_warp may be in the range of 1.4/1.0 to 3.0/1.0. In embodiments, the ratio E_weft /E_warp may be in the range of 1.8/1.0 to 3.0/1.0.
In another exemplary embodiment, the ratio E_weft/E_warp may be in the range of 0.4/1.0 to 4.0/1.0.
In embodiments, the first fiber may be a fiber that may stretch at least 400% of its initial length at its breaking point. In embodiments, the second fiber may be a fiber with an elongation that may be at least 20% of its initial length but less than the elongation of the first fiber, according to ASTM D3107. In embodiments, the first fiber and the second fiber may be connected together as disclosed in mentioned applications, such as in pages 9 and 10 of WO2012/062480. In embodiments, the first and second fibers may be intermingled. In embodiments, the number of connecting points between the first and second fibers may be within the range of 50 to 200 points per meter. In another embodiment, the first and second fibers may be connected by twisting. In embodiments, the number of twists per meter of the first and second fibers may be in the range of 200 to 600 twists per meter. In embodiments, the number of twists per meter of the first and second fibers may be in the range of 300 to 600 twists per meter.
In embodiments, the core of the yarns may be intermingled or twisted as per the discussion above, wherein the fabric is not a heat-set fabric, i.e., the fabric has not undergone a thermal treatment, as is generally done to set elasticity of the elastomeric fibers.
It had been found in specific embodiments that an elastic woven fabric may have an excellent elastic behavior. In particular embodiments, it may be possible to use highly elastic yarns to obtain highly elastic fabric both warp and weft-wise that was not possible with traditional fabrics and processes. In embodiments, the processes disclosed may result in a fabric that may stretch up to 150% (ASTM D1037 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes), or, in embodiments, a fabric may stretch over 150% weftwise and may return to its original shape after such a stretch. The fabric after the stretch may be visually identical to the fabric before the stretch.
Other fabrics not disclosed may not be able to obtain the stretchability of the fabrics in the disclosure. The other fabrics may suffer visual damages in the form of undulations or torqueing.
In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric having specific values of elasticity in the warp direction and specific values of elasticity in the weft direction may comprise an improved holding power (or shaping power). In embodiments, when the values of E_weft and E_warp are combined in a specific ratio, the elastic woven fabric may comprise an improved holding power (or shaping power). In embodiments, the disclosure may provide an elastic woven fabric comprising elastic yarns of the core spun type both warpwise and weftwise so that all yarns of the fabric may be elastic yarns. In an exemplary embodiment, the fabric may have specific values of elasticity and a specific ratio between E_warp and E_weft. In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp) may be at least 25% and the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction (E_weft) may be equal to or higher than E_warp. In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp) may be at least 25% and the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp) may be equal to or greater than the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction (E_weft).In embodiments, E_weft may be about twice the value of E_warp, which may provide an improved body holding power, improved movement skills, and a reduced growth of the fabric and of garments comprising the fabric.
Embodiments may provide a process for preparing said elastic woven fabric. The process may comprise steps including providing corespun warp yarns and weft yarns each having a stretchable core. In embodiments, an inelastic fiber sheath may cover the core. In embodiments, the stretchable core may comprise a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that may be less elastic than the first fiber. The process may further include weaving the warp and weft yarns to provide a fabric wherein all warp and all weft yarns may be corespun yarns. The process may further include finishing the fabric in order to provide a fabric that may have elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) that may be at least 25% and an elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) that may be at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes). In embodiments, the process may further include finishing the fabric in order to provide a fabric that may have elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) that may be at least 30% and an elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) that may be at least 30% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes). In embodiments, the process may further include finishing the fabric in order to provide a fabric that may have elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) that may be at least 40% and an elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) that may be at least 40% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes).
In embodiments of the process, the first fiber and the second fiber may be connected together by intermingling, coextrusion, and/or twisting in order to control the elongation of the first fiber.
In embodiments, elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) may be greater than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp). In embodiments, elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) may be greater than the elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft).
In embodiments, a process may comprise steps including providing corespun warp yarns and weft yarns having a stretchable core and an inelastic fiber sheath that covers the core. In embodiments, the stretchable core may comprise a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that may be less elastic than the first fiber. In embodiments, the first fiber and second fiber may be connected together by intermingling, coextrusing, and/or twisting in order to control elongation of the first fiber. The process may further include weaving the warp and weft yarns may provide a fabric wherein all warp and all weft yarns may be corespun yarns. The process may further include finishing the fabric may provide a fabric that may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) that may be at least 25% and an elasticity in weft direction (E_weft) that may be at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes). In embodiments, finishing the fabric may provide a fabric that may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) that may be at least 30% and an elasticity in weft direction (E_weft) that may be at least 30% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes). In embodiments, finishing the fabric may provide a fabric that may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) that may be at least 40% and an elasticity in weft direction (E_weft) that may be at least 40% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch, after 3 home washes).In embodiments, the elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) may be the same as or higher than the elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp). In embodiments, the elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) may be the same as or greater than the elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft).
In embodiments, processes disclosed may not include a step of heat setting of the fabric, i.e., the fabric of the invention may not undergo any type of heat treatment.
In embodiments, the disclosure may provide a clothing article made of or comprising an elastic woven fabric as disclosed in embodiments.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The novel features believed characteristic of the disclosed subject matter will be set forth in any claims that are filed. The disclosed subj ect matter itself, however, as well as a preferred mode of use, further objectives, and advantages thereof, will best be understood by reference to the following detailed description of an illustrative embodiment when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:

FIGS. 1A and 1B show how the minimum warp elasticity required can be determined.

FIG. 2 is a perspective schematic view of an exemplary embodiment of a fabric.

FIG. 3 displays a process for producing an elastic woven fabric in accordance with embodiments.

FIG. 4 displays a process for producing an elastic woven fabric in accordance with embodiments.

FIG. 5 displays a process for producing an elastic woven fabric in accordance with embodiments.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

Reference now should be made to the drawings, in which the same reference numbers are used throughout the different figures to designate the same components.
It will be understood that, although the terms first, second, third, etc. may be used herein to describe various elements, these elements should not be limited by these terms. These terms are only used to distinguish one element from another element. Thus, a first element discussed below could be termed a second element without departing from the teachings of the present disclosure.
The terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting. As used herein, the singular forms “a”, “an”, and “the” are intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. It will be further understood that the terms “comprises” and/or “comprising” or “includes” and/or “including” when used in this specification, specify the presence of stated features, regions, integers, steps, operations, elements, and/or components, but do not preclude the presence or addition of one or more other features, regions, integers, steps, operations, elements, components, and/or groups thereof.
The disclosure relates to a woven fabric having elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns. The woven fabric may be characterized in that it may have an elasticity, i.e., it can be stretched, in the warp direction of at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, measured according to ASTM D3107 MOIDIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash, and in that elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_weft) may be equal to or higher than the elasticity of the fabric in warp direction (E_warp).
In view of the fact that, in embodiments, the woven fabric of the disclosure may be elastic in both the warp and weft directions, it may be defined as a “bi-stretch” woven fabric.
As used herein, the term “elastic yarn” may refer to a yarn comprising an elastomeric fiber covered by a wrap, i.e., a core-spun yarn, and which may provide characteristics of elasticity to the woven fabric.
Suitable fibers for the elastic filament may include polyurethanic fibers such as, but not limited to elastane (e.g. Lycra®, Dorlastan (a registered trademark of Asahi Kasei Spandex Europe GMBH, LLC), spandex (Radicci Spandex Co.), and lastol (Dow Chemical XLA).
Suitable fibers for the less elastic, control, filament may include, but are not limited to: polyamides such as nylon (e.g., nylon 6, nylon 6,6, nylon 6,12, and the like), polyester, polyolefins (such as polypropylene and polyethylene), mixtures and copolymers of the same, and PBT and bicomponent filaments (namely elastomultiesters such as PBT/PET and PTT/PET filaments). In embodiments, suitable staple fibers for the sheath may include, but are not limited to: polyester fibers and natural fibers, preferably cotton fibers, that can be dyed.
In embodiments, elastic yarns which may be utilized in the disclosure may thus be disclosed in WO2012/06248. In embodiments of the elastic yarns, the two filaments of the core may be twisted at a twisting number of at least 200 twists per meter, preferably 300 to 600 twists/meter, which may result in the two filaments elongating and retracting as a single filament.
In embodiments, the comfort level of the bi-stretch fabric may be improved. This improvement may be obtained due to the E_warp being lower than the E_weft. In this bi-stretch fabric, the warp yarns may provide a better support against the gravity and the greater E_weft than E_warp may allow a better shaping of the body.
In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) in the range of at least 25%, according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes and elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_weft) may be equal to or higher than the elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp).
In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) in the range of at least 30%,-and more preferably at least 40%, according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes. In embodiments, wherein E_weft may be higher than E_warp, due to the fact that E_weft is higher than E_warp, the comfort level of the bi-stretch fabric of the invention may be improved. This improvement may be obtained because, when E_warp is lower than E_weft, the warp yarns of the bi-stretch fabric may provide a better support against gravity; at the same time, a higher E_weft may allow a better shaping of the body.
In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric may have an elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) in the range of 25% to over 75%, preferably 25% to 90%, more preferably 30% to 90%, most preferably 30% to 60%, according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes, and the elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) comprised in the range of 30% to over 150%, preferably 30% to 150%, more preferably 50% to 140%, measured according to ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes.
In embodiments, the elastic woven fabric may have elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) that may be twice the elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp), preferably two to three times E_warp.
In embodiments, improved recovery and reduced growth may be obtained by the bi-stretch fabric due to the providing of high elasticity in both warp and weft direction.
In embodiments, improved performance may be obtained by the bi-stretch fabric due to the high elasticity that may be more than what people may need in their daily lives. In view of this, normal daily use may not require the use of all elastic and elongation capacity of the fabric. Therefore, in embodiments, the fabric of the disclosure may not be overstretched or stressed, thus avoiding damage and lack of performance such as lack of recovery, increased growth, and bagging.
As an example, in the so called “super-skinny” garments, the garment’s cut is usually smaller than the normal body size. Therefore, just wearing super skinny garments may cause the fabric to stretch, which the garments may be made of. In view of this fact, normal use may cause stretching of the fabric of which the super-skinny garment is made. In view of this fact, a normal use can cause overstretching of the fabric of the super-skinny garment and damage to the fabric, as well as bagging at knees and elbows. In embodiments, the bi-stretch fabric of the disclosure may avoid overstretching, damage, bagging, and other problems. In embodiments, these problems may be avoided due to the fact that the fabric of the disclosure may be able to move with human skin, i.e., may be able to move as human skin moves.
In embodiments, the elastic corespun yarn may have an English cotton count ranging from 8 Ne to 90 Ne, preferably from 10 Ne to 80 Ne, more preferably from 12 Ne to 60 Ne.
In embodiments, the elastic woven fabric may have a weight in the range of 3 oz/yard² to 20 oz/yard² after wash (according to ASTM D3776), preferably in the range of 4 oz/yard² to 15 oz/yard² after wash (according to ASTM D3776), more preferably from 7 oz/yard² to 14 oz/yard² after wash (according to ASTM D3776).
In embodiments, the bi-stretch fabric may be a denim fabric.
In embodiments, an elastic woven fabric may be produced by a process 300 (FIG. 3 ) including determining 305 the minimum warp elasticity (E_warp) required and weaving 310 warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein said woven fabric may be elastic in both the warp and the weft direction and the fabric in the warp direction may be at least 25%, preferably at least 30% (ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home wash), and elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_weft) may be equal to or higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp), preferably two times the value of E_warp, and most preferably two to three times the value of E_warp.
In embodiments, the fabric may not be heat set, i.e., the fabric may not undergo a thermal treatment to set its elasticity to a pre-set value. It was surprisingly found that when the elastic yarns are used, in particular the elastic yarns above disclosed by reference to WO2012/062480, the resulting fabric may not have to be heat-set to avoid the occurrence of problems such as curling and torqueing. In embodiments, a fabric as mentioned above may undergo a thermal treatment.
In embodiments, possible combinations of stretch values (elasticity) measured by ASTM D3107 (stretch) after three home washings may include values in the ranges of: 30-75; 33-35; 53-75; 27-65; 28-50; 35-100; 40-100 40-120, wherein the elasticity is given for warp-weft.
Making reference to FIGS. 1A and 1B, the minimum warp elasticity required may be determined by measuring the variation in the distance between two benchmark points “A” 30 and “B” 40 taken at two opposite ends of a joint 20, such as an elbow or a knee, for example, along the axis of the limb 10 (e.g. an arm or a leg), on the skin of the future user.
In embodiments, the limb 10 may be an arm or a leg.
In embodiments, the joint 20 may be an elbow or a knee.
For example, in order to make trousers, the determination may be carried out, in embodiments, on a knee, namely above and below a knee. On the contrary, if the purpose is to obtain a fabric to make shirts, the minimum warp elasticity required may be determined on an elbow in embodiments.
In FIG. 1A, when the limb 10 is unbent, two benchmarks “A” 30 and “B” 40 may be taken at two opposite ends of a joint 20 along the axis of the limb 10.
In embodiments, the distance between benchmark “A” 30 and benchmark “B” 40 when the limb 10 is unbent may be the value X. In embodiments, when the limb 10 is bent, as shown in FIG. 1B, the distance measured along the skin of the limb 10 between benchmark “A” 30 and benchmark “B” 40, taken at two opposite ends of a joint 20, may increase to a value Y. The percentage of the variation of distance X to distance Y may be calculated with the formula (Y-X)/X. The result obtained may indicate the minimum warp elasticity required for a fabric.
In embodiments, the minimum warp elasticity required may be at least the value calculated using formula (Y-X)/X, wherein X may be the distance between the two benchmarks “A” 30 and “B” 40, taken at two opposite ends of the joint 20, along the axis of a limb 10, when the limb 10 is unbent, and Y may be the distance between the same two benchmarks when the limb 10 is bent.
In embodiments, the fabric may be woven in order to obtain an elastic woven fabric having an E_warp that may be greater than the value of (Y-X)/X and preferably at least twice the value of (Y-X)/X.
In embodiments, the warp elasticity E_warp of the fabric may be 20% higher than the value of (Y-X)/X, preferably 30% higher than the value of (Y-X)/X, and more preferably 40% higher than the value of (Y-X)/X.
In embodiments, the disclosure may further provide a process 400 for preparing an elastic woven fabric as disclosed above and shown in FIG. 4 . In embodiments, the process may include determining 405 the minimum warp elasticity required for the fabric. In embodiments, the process may further include selecting 410 an elastic yarn and a rigid yarn to be used in at least the warp yarns. In embodiments, the process may further include weaving 415 warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein said woven fabric may be elastic in both the warp and the weft directions. In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp) may be at least 30% and the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction (E_weft) may be higher than the elasticity in the warp direction (E_warp) (ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes). In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp) may be at least 30% and the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp) may be higher than the elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft) (ASTM D3107 MODIFIED - Stretch after 3 home washes).
In embodiments, the minimum warp elasticity required for the fabric may be calculated using formula (Y-X)/X, wherein X may be the distance between two benchmarks “A” 30 and “B” 40 taken at two opposite sides of a joint 20 along the axis of a limb 10 when the limb 10 is unbent and Y may be the distance between the same two benchmarks when the limb 10 is bent.
In embodiments, the disclosure may further provide a process 500 for preparing an elastic woven fabric as disclosed above and shown in FIG. 5 . In embodiments, a process 500 may include providing 505 corespun warp yarns and corespun weft yarns each having a stretchable core and an inelastic fiber sheath that may cover the stretchable core. In embodiments, the stretchable cores may comprise a first elastic fiber and a second fiber, wherein the second fiber may be less elastic than the first elastic fiber.
The process may further include weaving 510 the corespun warp yarns and the corespun weft yarns to create a fabric. The process may further include finishing 515 the fabric. In embodiments, the finishing 515 may provide the fabric with an elasticity in the warp direction of at least 25% and an elasticity in the weft direction of at least 25%.
In embodiments, the finishing 515 may provide the fabric with an elasticity in the warp direction of at least 30% and an elasticity in the weft direction of at least 30%.
In embodiments, the finishing 515 may provide the fabric with an elasticity in the warp direction of at least 40% and an elasticity in the weft direction of at least 40%.
In embodiments, the first fiber and second fiber may be connected together by at least one of intermingling, twisting, and coextrusion.
In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction (E_weft) may be greater than the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp). In embodiments, the elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction (E_warp) may be greater than the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction (E_weft).
In embodiments, the second fiber may be selected from the group of a PBT elastomultiester, a bicomponent PTT/PET, a PTT/PBT, and a nylon.
In embodiments, the first elastic fiber may be selected from the group of a polyolefin elastomer and a polyurethane elastomer.
FIG. 2 displays a woven fabric in accordance with embodiments. The woven fabric 50 may comprise warp yarns 51 and weft yarns 52. In embodiments, a first fiber 61 and a second fiber 62 (also referred to as core fibers 63 in embodiments) may be present in the core of the warp yarns 51. In embodiments, core fibers 63, including both first fibers 61 and second fibers 62, may be present in the core of the weft yarns 52.
In embodiments, the second fibers 62 may be less elastic than the first fibers 61.
FIG. 2 displays an embodiment of the woven fabric that may be a bi-directional stretch fabric. In embodiments, the fabric may be denim.
In embodiments, the bi-stretch fabric of the disclosure may be suitable to produce clothing articles comprising at least bi-stretch fabric. For example, clothing articles that may comprise the elastic woven fabric disclosed may be leggings, pants, T-shirts, sweaters, jackets, and any other garment. In embodiments, the bi-stretch fabric of the disclosure may be suitable to produce textiles other than clothing articles.
The following table may show the advantages of a fabric as described in an embodiment of the disclosure as far as growth of the fabric is concerned.

TABLE 1

Required Elasticity %	Growth for 80% elastic fabric (ASTM D3107)	Growth for 50% elastic fabric (ASTM D3107)	Growth for 20% elastic fabric (ASTM D3107)
10	1	1	1
20	1.5	3	6
30	2	4	-
40	3	5	-
50	4	7	-
60	5	-	-
65	5.5	-	-
70	5.8	-	-
75	7.5	-	-
80	10	-	-

In the above table, the required elasticity may be the elasticity determined or measured as previously discussed, e.g., it may be known that the elasticity required for the fabric of a legging or skinny jeans is 20% when the actual fabric used has a 20% elasticity. The result may be a growth of the fabric with use and a bagging resulting at the knees. Additionally, any holding and shaping power of the fabric may be decreased with time.
If, in embodiments, for a leggings or jeans garment, the used fabric has an elasticity of 50%, the growth may be only 3 or 1.5 if a fabric having 80% elasticity is utilized.
If, in embodiments, a required elasticity of a fabric is 50%, the use of a 50% elastic fabric may result in a growth of 7% of the fabric compared to a growth of 4% of the fabric if a fabric having 80% elasticity is used.
In embodiments, a garment may be customized to the final user’s body structure. By measuring the required elasticity on a user’s body as previously mentioned it may be possible to select a garment, in embodiments, that may have an elasticity that more properly suits a user’s body and movement characteristics.
For the purposes of this disclosure, the term “inelastic fiber sheath” may refer to a sheath comprising one or more fibers that may envelop and/or cover at least a portion of a stretchable core of a yarn.
For the purposes of this disclosure, the terms “method” and “process” may be interchangeable.
In embodiments of any processes disclosed, the fabric, yarn, and/or fibers may comprise any disclosed characteristics.
In embodiments, suitable elastic core spun yarns may be those disclosed in WO2008/130563, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
In embodiments, original polymers may be utilized. For the purposes of this disclosure, the term “original polymers” may refer to polymers that are utilized that are in their original form of when they had first been discovered. In embodiments, trademarked polymers may be utilized. It is noted that trademarked polymers may vary in characteristics from original polymers, such characteristics being, for example, molecular weight, branching, and density.
While this disclosure has been particularly shown and described with reference to preferred embodiments thereof and to the accompanying drawings, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and details may be made therein without departing from the spirit of this disclosure. Therefore, the scope of the disclosure is defined not by the detailed description but by the appended claims.

Claims

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39. A woven fabric comprising;

elastic warp yarns;

elastic weft yarns,

said elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns each having a stretchable core and an inelastic fibers sheath covering said core, said stretchable core including a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than said first elastic fiber;

said woven fabric having an elasticity in warp direction of at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch); and

said elastic warp yarns having a twist level with a twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to 6.

40. The woven fabric according to claim 39, comprising:

wherein the twist multiplier is in the range of 3.5 to 4.7.

41. The woven fabric according to claim 39, comprising:

wherein said first elastic fiber and said second fiber are intermingled with a number of connecting points within the range of 20 to 1000 twists per meter;

said elasticity in said weft direction is greater than said elasticity in said warp direction;

said second fiber comprises a PBT elastomultiester, a bicomponent PTT/PET or PTT/PBT, or nylon; and

said first elastic fiber comprises a polyolefin elastomer or a polyurethane elastomer.

42. The woven fabric according to claim 39, comprising:

wherein said first elastic fiber is stretchable to at least 400% of an initial length of said first elastic fiber and said second fiber is stretchable to at least 20% of an initial length of said second fiber but is less stretchable than said first elastic fiber.

43. The woven fabric according to claim 39, comprising:

wherein said woven fabric comprises denim.

44. A clothing article comprising:

a woven fabric, said woven fabric comprising elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns;

said elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns each having a stretchable core and an inelastic fibers sheath covering said core, said stretchable core including a first elastic fiber and a second fiber that is less elastic than said first elastic fiber,

said woven fabric having an elasticity in warp direction of at least 25% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch), and

45. The clothing article according to claim 44, comprising:

wherein the twist multiplier lies in the range of 3.5 to 4.7 and said elasticity in weft direction is greater than said elasticity in warp direction.

46. The clothing article according to claim 44, comprising:

wherein said first elastic fiber is stretchable to at least 400% of an initial length of said first elastic fiber and said second fiber is stretchable to at least 20% of an initial length of said second fiber, said second fiber being less stretchable than said first elastic fiber.

47. The clothing article according to claim 44, comprising:

48. The woven fabric according to claim 39, comprising:

said woven fabric having elasticity in weft direction of at least 40% (measured according to ASTM D3107 - Stretch).

49. The clothing article according to claim 44, comprising:

50. The woven fabric according to claim 39, further comprising:

wherein elasticity of the fabric in weft direction (E_weft) is higher than the elasticity in warp direction (E_warp).

51. The woven fabric according to claim 39, further comprising:

wherein elasticity of the fabric in warp direction (E_warp) is higher than elasticity in the weft direction (E_weft).

52. The clothing article according to claim 44, comprising:

53. The clothing article according to claim 44, comprising: