JP2002317348A - Stretch fabric for bottom - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Purpose] Excellent in process stability during weaving. When made into clothing, it is hard to wrinkle even when worn for a long time, keeps a beautiful silhouette for a long time, and less tired due to less pressure. In addition, the present invention provides a stretch fabric for bottoms having a twisted texture excellent in abrasion resistance. SOLUTION: A stretch-mixed twisted yarn comprising an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber has at least a stretch ratio of 15 to 30% and a stretchback property of 75% or more in the warp direction, and at least all or a part of the warp yarn. It is a stretch fabric for the bottom used for.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretch woven fabric for bottoms, that is, an outer garment for a lower body such as slacks pants and a skirt, and more particularly to a stretch woven fabric which is excellent in wearing comfort, hardly wrinkles and hardly wears. The present invention relates to a stretch woven fabric for a bottom made of a stretch-mixed twisted yarn having excellent twistability and a twisted texture.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics used for bottom clothing are:
A good-looking non-stretch fabric with emphasis on stiffness (a stretch rate in both the warp and weft directions is less than 10%) is generally used. (Especially around the hip joint and around the back of the knee), and there is a disadvantage that a good-looking silhouette cannot be maintained for a long time.

Recently, bottom clothing having stretch properties has been marketed. Clothing having stretch performance has good follow-up properties with the skin during operation, so there is little feeling of pressure on each joint, and it is less tired, so it is excellent in comfort. However, most of them have stretching performance only in the weft (horizontal) direction. For bottom clothing applications,
If the stretching performance in the direction is poor, there is a problem that even when the stretching performance in the weft (horizontal) direction is sufficient, the tire is easily fatigued as in the non-stretched product, and wrinkles are easily generated. Because, unlike the upper body, the movement of the lower body is mainly in the sitting position, and the clothing for the bottom, which has insufficient stretching performance in the meridional direction, causes extreme fabric tightness and dubble around the knee and hip joint, An uncomfortable feeling of pressure and wrinkles occur.
At this time, if the stretching performance in the warp (vertical) direction is sufficient, the unreasonable tension and dubble around the joints are alleviated, the feeling of oppression is not felt, and the generation of wrinkles due to the dubble can be reduced. Therefore, the bottom garment needs an appropriate stretch performance in the warp (vertical) direction.

[0004] For example, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-355846, the ratio (A / B) of the stretch ratio (A) in the warp direction and the stretch ratio (B) in the weft direction is disclosed.
If the skirt is used such that the woven fabric becomes 0.4 or less,
It is stated that a sufficient effect of suppressing weft wrinkles can be expected. However, the use of this fabric is limited to tight skirts and culottes, and in particular, pants and long skirts that cover below the knee have no effect because the fabric does not follow the warp direction. Therefore, development of a bottom product having sufficient stretching performance in the longitudinal direction has been strongly desired.

[0005] However, it has been difficult and difficult to commercialize a woven fabric having a stretch performance in the warp (vertical) direction with stable quality. For example, a composite yarn (hereinafter, referred to as FTY) covering an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber for such an application, and a conjugated composite yarn (hereinafter, referred to as “FTY”) in which an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber are aligned and twisted. A composite yarn (hereinafter referred to as A) in which an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber are air-entangled.
Many methods using an elastic composite yarn such as JY) are known. However, when these yarns are used for warp,
There are various problems, and a woven fabric having stable quality cannot be obtained.

[0006] For example, when FTY or AJY is used for the warp, a yarn with a paste applied in the sizing step is often used as the warp in order to stabilize the weaving process. This sizing step is intended to improve the friction resistance of a reed, a heald or the like in the weaving step by applying a glue film to the warp to smooth the surface. In the sizing step, it is necessary to pass through the hot air or to contact the high-temperature cylinder in order to dry the liquid glue applied to the warp, and the heat at the time of this drying changes the characteristics of the elastic fiber. However, there was a problem that the fabric cannot be formed. As a method of avoiding this, there is a method of weaving without glue. In this case, FTY or AJY, which has poor convergence, is liable to be twisted due to friction with a heald or a reed at the time of weaving. Insufficiency of the opening and poor threading of the elastic fibers cause thread breakage, lowering the production efficiency and making it difficult to produce a uniform woven fabric.

[0007] In the case of ply-twisted yarn, each yarn is plied before twisting. The laying method includes a method of simply aligning and winding an elastic fiber and a non-elastic multifilament fiber, and a method of winding 10 yarns.
There is a method of giving a sweet twist of about 0 T / m or less. In any case, since the air yarn is not applied to the plied yarn before twisting, the covering property of the elastic fiber is insufficient. In addition, the elastic fibers are liable to cause defects in the surface of the elastic fibers, and the friction between the elastic fibers and a heald or a reed at the time of weaving tends to cause a defect in durability such as breaking of the elastic fibers. Therefore, the weaving process is not stable, and as a result, the quality of the fabric is not stable. In addition, even if air treatment is performed, the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers are simply connected at some points, so that the elastic fibers are streaked as described above, causing a problem.

On the other hand, many methods have been proposed in which only polyethylene terephthalate fibers are used without using elastic fibers. For example, false twisted yarn,
There are stretch woven fabrics using conjugate yarns, different shrinkage mixed yarns, etc., but also in these, the texture point of warp / weft is limited to a loose woven fabric in order to sufficiently exhibit the stretching performance of the woven fabric. . As a result, not only is the abrasion resistance of the woven fabric inferior, but also if it is combined with other fibers to express the functionality of the material other than the stretch performance, the stretch performance will be reduced, making it difficult to expand into a wide range of product fields. In the situation.

[0009] Given this technical background, the production of one-way stretch fabrics and two-way stretch fabrics has been avoided.
The production of one-way stretch fabrics, which are relatively easy to manufacture, has become the mainstream, and there are many one-way stretch fabrics for bottom use. In terms of appearance, it is not always satisfactory.

[0010]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide excellent process stability during weaving, and when sewing on garments, it is difficult for wrinkles to form even when worn for a long time, keeping a beautiful silhouette for a long time, It is an object of the present invention to provide a high-quality stretch fabric for bottoms, which is low in fatigue, hardly fatigued, excellent in abrasion resistance, and has a twisted texture.

[0011]

The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, the mixed state of the elastic fibers and the inelastic multifilament fibers is important for the quality of the fabric and the stability of the production process. The present inventors have found that a comfortable bottom fabric can be obtained by finishing the fabric with a specific stretch property, and have completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention is as follows. (1) A stretch woven fabric having a stretch ratio of at least 15 to 30% and a stretchback ratio of at least 75% in the warp direction, wherein at least all of the stretch-mixed twisted yarns composed of elastic fibers and inelastic multifilament fibers are all warps. Or a stretch fabric for bottoms, which is used in part. (2) A stretch in which the ratio (A / B) of the stretch ratio (A) in the warp direction and the stretch ratio (B) in the weft direction is 0.5 to 30, and the stretch ratio in the weft direction is 30% or less. The stretch woven fabric for bottom according to (1), wherein a stretch-mixed twisted yarn comprising an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber is used for all or a part of the warp and the weft. .

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The bottom fabric is a fabric used for outer clothing of the lower body, particularly slacks pants and skirts. The fabric constituting the stretch fabric for bottom of the present invention has a length of 15 to 30 in the warp direction.
% Stretch rate. The warp direction here includes the warp direction when the woven fabric having the stretch performance in the weft direction is reversed in the cutting and sewing steps after weaving.

[0014] When the stretch ratio in the warp direction of the woven fabric is less than 15%, the feeling of pressure received from the garment during bending or stretching, or in the sitting position is particularly large around the buttocks and the knees, and the user feels discomfort and fatigue. Further, if worn for a long time, many weft wrinkles are formed around the hip joint and the knee joint, and the appearance is deteriorated. In addition, when an excessively bent state such as sitting straight is continued for a long time, blood circulation below the knee is deteriorated, and numbness of the foot is liable to occur, thereby increasing discomfort. Stretch rate in the warp direction of the fabric is 30
%, The stiffness of the fabric disappears,
By repeatedly wearing and washing pants such as slacks using the woven fabric for a long period of time, the hem is elongated.

The stretch back ratio in the warp direction of the stretch fabric for bottoms of the present invention is 75% or more. When the stretchback rate is less than 75%, the wrinkles once attached to the fabric remain for a long time without recovery. In addition, a knee dropout occurs around the knee where the telescopic movement is frequently performed. Therefore, the higher the stretchback ratio, the better. The stretch fabric for bottoms of the present invention may have stretchability and stretchback properties also in the weft direction. In this case, the composite elastic yarn used for the weft is preferably a stretch-mixed twisted yarn, and the yarn configuration is preferably the same yarn configuration and twist direction as the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used for the warp of this woven fabric. The stretch rate in the weft direction should be less than 30% to give the fabric a firmness and stiffness, improve the creasing of the iron, express a good-looking silhouette and give a luxurious texture without rubber-like preferable. It is preferable that the stretch-back rate in the weft direction is 75% or more in order to make it difficult for the knee to fall around the knee which has a lot of stretching motion.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the stretch ratio (A) in the warp direction is 15 to 30% and the stretch ratio in the weft direction is 30% or less. ) Is preferably 0.5 to 30, and more preferably 0.75 to 3.0. The reason is considered as follows. Among the movements of the lower body of the human, the maximum stretch ratio of the skin in the warp / latitudinal direction, especially when the kneecap is flexed / stretched, is 2.0, and the longitudinal stretch is larger than that in the latitudinal direction. It is. In order for the lower body to move smoothly, it is preferable that the magnitude relationship between the stretch ratios required for the clothing in the meridional direction and the latitudinal direction is designed so that the longitudinal direction is greater than the latitudinal direction. When the stretch ratio (A / B) is less than 0.5, the deviation from the maximum elongation ratio (2.0) of the kneecap skin part becomes large, the ability of the clothing to follow the movement of the joints becomes dull, and the wearing comfort becomes poor. Bad, tired and wrinkled. If the stretch ratio (A / B) exceeds 30, the stretch ratio in the warp direction becomes excessive and the hem grows due to repeated wearing and washing of pants such as slacks for a long period of time, lacking form stability and silhouette. And the texture is reduced.

The present invention is also characterized in that a stretch blended twisted yarn of an elastic fiber and a non-elastic multifilament fiber is used for at least all or a part of the warp. Stretch blended twisted yarn refers to a twisted yarn obtained by subjecting drafted elastic fiber and inelastic multifilament fiber to air blending and entanglement treatment, and the elastic fiber is sufficiently covered with inelastic multifilament fiber. It is a composite elastic yarn in a state where it is set.

In the present invention, the use of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn further improves the effect of suppressing wrinkles and improving the texture by using the twisted yarn effect. As for the wrinkles, the flatter the yarn, the more easily the bending angle becomes large, and as a result, the distortion remains and the wrinkles are formed. The stretch-mixed twisted yarn is a composite elastic yarn to which a twist yarn has been added, and the bending angle applied to the yarn is reduced due to the twist angle, wrinkles are hardly formed, and even if wrinkles are once formed, it is easily eliminated. About texture, FTY
Unlike general stretch fabrics with a fluffy feel, such as AJY and AJY, the twisted fabric has the texture of sharpness and texture on thin ground, which is a characteristic of twisted fabrics.

The stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention is not only sufficiently air-entangled at the time of twining, but also has improved bunching properties and elastic fiber covering properties due to the twisting of the twined yarn, thus improving the weaving process. Also, the quality (there is no elastic fiber blindness) is good. The twisted yarn constituting the conventional twisted touch fabric does not air-blend at the time of twisting the elastic fiber and the inelastic multifilament fiber, or provides only a slight entanglement point. Poor coatability, poor weaving process, poor dryness, poor quality.

Preferably, the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention is fed into the interlacing device together with the inelastic multifilament fiber while drafting the elastic fiber by 2 to 4 times, and air-mixed and entangled. And then twisted. The step of air-entanglement and the step of twisting both the elastic fiber and the inelastic multifilament fiber may be performed in separate steps, or the AJY may be twisted. In this case, the AJY yarn supply package is often in the form of cheese, and when twisting this, a pre-process for rewinding it into a form that can be set on a twisting machine, that is, a winding process may be necessary.

The air-fiber entanglement treatment for producing the stretch-fiber-twisted yarn used in the present invention is preferably carried out on the elastic fiber.
The air-mixing and entanglement treatment is performed by using an interlacer nozzle or the like while aligning with the inelastic multifilament fiber while drafting up to 4 times. At this time, a tension of 0.1 cN / decitex or less is applied to the inelastic multifilament fiber. The yarn may be fed to the interlacer nozzle, or the yarn may be fed while applying an overfeed of 5% or less.

When the non-elastic multifilament fiber is a raw yarn (yarn that has not been crimped by false twisting or the like), overfeed is preferable, and when it is a crimped yarn, the overfeed is up to 3%. It is preferred to feed. On the other hand, with regard to the elastic fiber, once the draft is applied, the overdraft (draft mitigation measure) of about 5% or less is applied to the draft before the yarn is fed to the interlace nozzle, so that the elastic fiber becomes more near the core. And a stretch-mixed twisted yarn having high covering properties with inelastic multifilament fibers can be obtained.

The device for air-mixing and entanglement of the elastic fiber and the inelastic multifilament fiber is not particularly limited as long as it has a mechanism capable of drawing the elastic fiber to a draft of about 2 to 4 times. An elastic fiber feeding device using a method in which the speed ratio between the winding speed and the feeding speed is maintained at a constant ratio or an elastic fiber feeding device using a tension controller or only the elastic fiber is drawn 2 to 4 times, and the wound yarn supply body is used in the next step. The inelastic multifilament may be entangled with the air-mixed fiber. In the winding after the air-entangled fiber entanglement, there is no problem even if the actual twist of about 100 T / m enters when a ring twisting machine is used.

The number of entanglements after intertwining with the air-mixed fiber varies depending on the type of inelastic multifilament fiber, and is 20 to 40 ko / m for raw yarn, and 30 for bulky yarn such as false twisted yarn.
By controlling it to 50 cores / m, stable production can be achieved in the subsequent twisting step, and coating of the elastic fiber is most effectively performed. As the interlacer nozzle, for example, use is made of an interlacer nozzle sold by Awa Spindle Co., etc., such as Type PC-220 (trade name) of Toray Precision Co., Ltd., Type HFP-P221 (trade name) of Hebrew Line Co., Ltd. be able to.

The method of measuring the number of confounds is to use a confounding number measuring device ETM-2 (trade name) manufactured by Nippon Detector Co., Ltd., and set the setting mode to 1 for processed yarn. Set the setting mode to 2 and measure according to the instructions of the measuring instrument. As a means for twisting the mixed fiber obtained by subjecting the elastic fiber and the inelastic multifilament fiber to the air entanglement treatment, any equipment capable of twisting with a twist coefficient in the range of 5000 to 30000 may be used. The most preferred is a double twister which is a twisting machine. In addition, an Italy twisting machine, a ring twisting machine, a covering machine, and the like can also be used, and are not particularly limited.

In twisting, the twist coefficient is preferably 50
Twisting is performed so as to be 00 to 30,000. The twist coefficient K is a value obtained by multiplying the square root of the total fineness obtained by combining the fineness (B) of the inelastic multifilament fiber and the fineness (C) of the drafted elastic fiber by the number of twists per meter (T). , Calculated by the following equation. K = (√ (B + C)) × T For example, a stretch mixed fiber twisted yarn in which the elastic fiber 22 dtex is drawn at a draft of 3.0 times and air mixed with the inelastic multifilament fiber 84 dtex to form a 1000 T / m twisted yarn. Has a twist coefficient K of 91.3 dtex × 1000 T / m = 9560.

As another means for obtaining the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention, for example, POY is firstly set by a false twisting machine.
After the false twisting of the false twisted yarn and the elastic fiber, the yarn may be air entangled and then twisted.
The OY and the elastic fiber may be put in at the same time, air-entangled before winding, and then twisted. As described above, in the present invention, by using the stretch-mixed twisted yarn and imparting appropriate stretch performance to the woven fabric, the lower body movement becomes smooth, and not only daily life but also light sports, golf, trekking, nursing bottom, etc. The effect can also be widely expected.

Examples of the elastic fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention include polyurethane-based and polyetherester-based elastic yarns. For example, dry-spun or melt-spun polyurethane elastic fibers can be used. The polymer and spinning method are not particularly limited. The fineness of the elastic fiber is preferably 17 to 156 dtex, more preferably 22 to 44 dtex. The elongation at break is preferably from 400 to 1200%. By setting the normal processing temperature of each dry heat setting step at the time of the dyeing process to 200 ° C. or less, a decrease in elasticity can be prevented.

As the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention, a known type or form of fiber can be used. For example, cupra,
Various fibers such as regenerated cellulose fibers such as viscose rayon, natural fibers having a filament form such as silk, and synthetic fibers such as acetate, polyester, and nylon. In addition, round cross section, irregular cross section, hollow cross section, original yarn, undrawn yarn (including POY), high-speed spun yarn (for example, spin take-up or spin draw take-up), thick and thin yarn, design yarn, false twist yarn, etc. Crimped yarn, etc., and may be a composite yarn combining one or more of these fiber types and forms (using known composite means such as blending, entanglement, intertwisting, composite false twisting, fluid jet processing, etc.). You just need to select it. It is also effective to use a yarn-dyed yarn or the like as the inelastic multifilament fiber. In this case, it is preferable to perform a relaxation process in order to exert the stretch characteristics.

The number of filaments of the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention is preferably 10 filaments or more, and the single-fiber fineness is preferably 4.0 decitex or less, 30 filaments or more, and single-fiber fineness 3.0. The following is more preferred. The total fineness of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention is preferably from 40 to 920 decitex, and more preferably from 70 to 200 decitex. If it is less than 40 decitex, the durability for the bottom is reduced, the fabric is liable to be free from tension and stiffness, and the ratio of elastic fibers is increased, resulting in a rubber-like fabric. If it exceeds 920 decitex, it tends to be a thick and coarsely woven fabric.

By performing the air-mixing and entanglement treatment under the above-described conditions, the covering property of the elastic fiber is improved, and the performance of the elastic fiber is exhibited without unevenness even after twisting. A stretch blended twisted yarn is obtained. This stretch-mixed twisted yarn has a compact yarn form (while FTY and AJY have a bulky yarn form) due to the twisting effect, and when formed into a woven fabric, has a large degree of freedom (space ratio) within the woven fabric structure. Become. As a result, the stretching performance is easily exhibited.

In the present invention, a woven fabric structure in which warp / weft tissue points are loose such as a stretch woven fabric made of only polyethylene terephthalate fibers (false twisted yarns, conjugate yarns, different shrinkage mixed yarns, etc.) without using elastic fibers. It is not necessary to limit to a high quality stretch woven fabric that can exhibit sufficient stretch performance even in a woven fabric structure (flat, 2/1 twill, 2/2 twill, etc.) with many constraint points and has excellent abrasion resistance. Obtainable.

In the present invention, a stretch-mixed twisted yarn is used for at least all or a part of the warp. However, when the stretch-mixed twisted yarn is used for a part of the warp, the type of the other fiber is not limited. Preferably, a yarn obtained by twisting the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn under the same conditions as the stretch-mixed twisted yarn is used. In this case, in the case of warp, it is preferable that the stretch blended twisted yarn: the other fiber has a regular arrangement of 1: 2 to 3: 1. In the case of an irregular arrangement, a streak defect may appear. Even in the case of a regular arrangement, it is more effective to weave by passing through the reeds for each minimum number of repeats to prevent a warp defect. The minimum number of repeats is 4 in order to smooth the opening of each warp in the reed feathers, reduce unevenness in tension and uneven opening, and improve the weaving process and stabilize the quality.
The following is preferred.

When the regular arrangement ratio of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn: the other fibrous body is less than 1: 2, for example, 1: 3 or 1: 4, the stretchability of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn becomes small, and the desired stretch property is obtained. It becomes difficult to obtain a stretch fabric having the same. Conversely, the regular arrangement ratio exceeds 3: 1, for example, 4: 1.
In the case of 5: 1, the elasticity of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn and the torque balance with the other fibrous body are likely to be lost, and it may look like a warp defect. The type of the woven fabric is not particularly limited, and may be a flat structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, or a structure combining these structures. But,
A flat structure or a twill structure is more preferable if a loose structure of warp / weft structure points is used to bring out stretching performance, since the friction resistance such as snagging and pilling is inferior.

The warp and weft densities of the woven fabric are as follows.
In the case of 0 to 920 decitex, the warp density is 40 to 22.
In the case of 0 yarns / 2.54 cm and weft fineness of 40 to 920 decitex, the weft density may be set in the range of 40 to 220 yarns / 2.54 cm depending on the fabric structure and application. The loom for weaving is not particularly limited, and air jet loom, water jet loom, rapier loom,
It can be produced using a gripper room, a shuttle loom or the like. Further, in these looms, a mechanism may be provided in the loom between the warp beam and the heddle so that a warp or the like adheres to the warp yarns, thereby reducing warp abrasion, suppressing fluff generation, and improving the weaving process.

[0036]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. Stretch characteristics, wearing pressure, momentum, weft wrinkles, silhouette, bagging, snuggling,
The evaluation method of texture and weaving processability is as follows. (1) Stretch characteristics of woven fabric Stretch characteristics of woven fabric are described in JIS-L-1080 (19).
78), measured according to the B method (constant load method), and the items of elongation rate and stretchback rate are expressed as stretch rate and stretchback rate.

(2) Measurement of Wearing Pressure (Evaluation of Wearing) A multipoint clothes pressure measuring device (AM13037-10 manufactured by AIM Techno Co., Ltd.) was used as a measuring device, and three pressure sensors were placed around the kneecap and the thigh. Attach one point on the back and one point on the center of the buttocks, for a total of five places. Wear each fabric sample sewn in slacks, lift your feet from the upright position,
At the time of reaching 20 degrees, reciprocating movement of lowering the foot by 30 feet
50 times at a speed of deg / sec, of which 20 to 40
The total value of the average value of each part of 20 times corresponding to the number of times is used as the measured value.

(3) Measurement of Momentum (Evaluation of Wearing) Using a human body load momentum measuring device (manufactured by Biotex System) as a measuring device, each fabric sample sewn with slacks is worn, and the leg is lifted from the upright posture, and the knee is lifted. When the angle reaches 120 degrees, reciprocating motion of lowering the foot is performed 50 times at a speed of 30 deg / sec.
The value of 20 times corresponding to around 40 times is used as a measurement value, and is used as an index of fatigue easiness.

(4) Weft wrinkles (evaluation of wearing) Each sample sewn on slacks was worn for 5 consecutive days.
During this time, on-site work such as weaving preparation work and office work are repeated for 8 hours / day. The slacks after being worn are placed on a horizontal table, and the degree of occurrence of wrinkles around the back of the knee before and after wearing is divided into five grades, and evaluated by sensory evaluation. Good fabrics with almost no weft wrinkles are indicated by ○ (5 points), and wefts that are visible but are not bothersome are indicated by ○ to △ (4 points).
Points), 織物 (3 points) for fabrics worried about weft wrinkles, △ ~ × (2 points) for fabrics worried about weft wrinkles, × (1 point) for fabrics worried about weft wrinkles 5 points are given. The evaluation is ranked by five persons and is represented by the average value. Evaluation is 3
Up to 5 points are assumed to be woven fabrics with less weft wrinkling.

(5) Silhouette (Evaluation of Wear) Each sample sewn on the slacks was worn for 5 consecutive days.
During this time, site work such as weaving preparation work and office work are repeated for 8 hours / day. Appearance centered on the folds before and after wearing and the degree of knee dislocation were determined by actual and photographic judgment.
It is divided into stages and evaluated by sensory evaluation. A good state in which the fold remains almost unchanged is indicated by （(5 points), and a state in which the fold is slightly weak but not bothersome is indicated by △ to △ (4 points).
Point), the state where the degree of crease remaining is slightly anxious
Points), the state of concern about the remaining degree of the fold is Δ ~ × (2
(Point), a state in which the degree of crease remaining is very worrisome, and a slight dropout of the knee is felt as x (1 point), and a score of five levels is given. The evaluation is ranked by five persons and is represented by the average value. Those having an evaluation of 3 to 5 points are regarded as a beautifully woven fabric with a silhouette.

(6) Bagging (Evaluation of Shape Loss such as Knee Loss) Bagging is performed in accordance with JIS-L-1061 (Method A flexion repetition method).
Measure according to.

(7) Snagging (Evaluation of abrasion resistance) Snagging is measured according to the snag test method of JIS-L-1058 (D-3 method, Freing method).

(8) Texture (Tensile Touch) The woven fabric is placed on a horizontal table, and the degree of the texture (texture touch such as grain and sharpness) of the woven fabric is divided into five levels and evaluated by sensory evaluation. ○ (5)
Point), fabrics that lack touch feeling of twisted yarn
Point), the degree of touch feeling of twisted yarn is slightly weaker.
Point), a fabric with almost no sense of twisting yarn touch
Point), and a woven fabric having no sense of twisting touch is designated as x (one point), and a five-point score is given. The evaluation is ranked by five persons and is represented by the average value. Those having an evaluation of 3 to 5 points are considered to be elegant woven fabrics with good grain standing. In addition, each slacks sample used for the wearing evaluation is sewn by the same cutting method and the same size according to the physique of the subject. The clearance around the knee is 15%.

(9) Weaving process characteristics In manufacturing a 500-m fabric, the number of times the loom is stopped is determined by the warp factor (thread breakage, elastic fiber breakage, fluffing, etc.) and the weft factor (yarn breakage, arrival delay, poor arrival, etc.). ), And the number of stops is 0 to 5 times excellent, 6 to 10 times good, 1
1 to 20 times are acceptable, and 21 times or more are not acceptable. The weft arrival delay or poor arrival refers to a phenomenon in which the weft does not arrive within a certain predetermined rotational crank angle range of the loom without being stabilized, and the weft does not arrive or is not reached. The following examples and comparative examples will be examined in order to examine appropriate stretch characteristics and stretch ratios in each direction and stretch ratios (A / B) in the warp / weft directions.

[0045]

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) as an inelastic multifilament fiber 21
An undrawn yarn of 1 dtex / 48f is drawn at a ratio of 1.26 times with a Mach 33H (trade name) manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., one heater (set temperature: 200 ° C.), twist number: 2100 T / m, winding speed: 600 m / False stretch processing under the condition of
A yarn equivalent to decitex was prepared. Next, type AT-, an air covering device manufactured by Aiki Seisakusho, Ltd.
Using 501 (trade name), the yarn (drawn false twisted yarn) and the elastic fiber were air-mixed and entangled. As the elastic fiber, a polyurethane-based elastic fiber Loica (registered trademark, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 44 dtex is stretched 3.0 times (draft of the elastic fiber becomes 3.0) and immediately before entering the interlacer nozzle. Received 2% overfeeding (draft mitigation measures). One inelastic multifilament fiber was over-feeded by 2%, and the two were air-mixed and entangled by an interlacer nozzle. Then
While imparting a twist number of 15 T / m to the mixed fiber entangled yarn, 35
The film was wound at a speed of 0 m / min. The number of confounds at this time is 35
Co / m. Type HFP, an interlacer nozzle manufactured by Heberline Co., Ltd.
Using P-221 (trade name), air mixing and entanglement were performed under the condition of air pressure of 392 kPa.

When the twist coefficient K is 9240 (the number of twists set on the machine is 7)
00T / m), a twisted yarn in the twisting direction Z was prepared. The twisted yarn is a double twister manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. 31
0F type (trade name), spindle speed 100
The yarn was twisted at 00 rpm. The above-obtained twisted yarn is wound up using a type HB-M (trade name) which is a partial warping machine manufactured by Kakinoki Co., Ltd., without setting for anti-bism, in a glue-free state. A warp of 530 m in length is performed at a speed of 140 m / min, and a warp density (set density on a loom) of 109 pieces /
Type ZA209i, an air jet loom manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo with a width of 2.54 cm and a width of 185 cm
(Product name) was set as a warp.

The weft yarn is a polyethylene terephthalate fiber of an inelastic multifilament fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation), which is a companion yarn constituting a warp-stretch-twisted yarn.
Only 167 decitex / 48f processed yarn (1 heater false twist, Z direction false twist) was formed at 700 T / m to make a twist yarn in twist direction Z, and the weft density (weft driving density) was 58/2.
The deformed twill fabric was woven at 54 cm at 500 rpm at a loom rotation speed of 400 rpm. Next, the obtained green fabric was subjected to a series of processes of scouring-setting (200 ° C. × 2 times) -dyeing-drying-finishing, and the final finishing width was set to 175 cm.

The stretch ratio of the obtained fabric in the warp / weft direction was 15.8% / 2.3% (stretch ratio ratio A / B =
6.87), the stretchback rate is 78.4% / 9
It was 8.1%. Table 1 shows the structure and weavability of the warp and the weft, and Table 2 shows the performance of the obtained woven fabric. Hereinafter, similarly, the configurations and weaving properties of the warps and the wefts of Examples 2 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 are shown in Table 1, and the performance of the obtained woven fabric is shown in Table 2.

[0049]

Comparative Example 1 Evaluation was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the polyurethane elastic fiber used for warp, Leica (registered trademark, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation), 22 dtex, was used. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 12.8% / 2.9% (stretch ratio ratio A / B
= 4.41), and the stretch back rate is 76.4% / 9.
It was 8.8%.

[0050]

Example 2 In Example 1, the fineness of the polyurethane elastic fibers constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used for the warp was 2
2 dtex, weaving using only the inelastic multifilament fiber twist yarn for the weft, and then performing a series of processes of scouring-set (190 ° C. × 1 time) -dyeing-drying-finishing. The final finishing width was set to 175 cm, and evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 30.0% / 1.1% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 27.27), and the stretchback ratio was 82.4% / 98.8%. Met.

[0051]

Comparative Example 2 In Example 1, the weft was woven using only the inelastic multifilament fiber twisted yarn, and the obtained greige was subjected to scouring-set (190 ° C. × 1 time) -dyeing-drying-finishing. Perform a series of processing, final finishing width 175cm
And evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 34.0% / 1.1%.
(Stretch ratio ratio A / B = 30.91), and the stretch back ratio was 88.6% / 99.8%.

[0052]

Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, only the twisted yarn of the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn was used for the warp, and the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used for the warp in Example 1 was used for the weft. Using a weft density (weft driving density) of 58 yarns / 2.54 cm, a deformed twill fabric of 40
Weaving was performed at a loom rotation speed of 0 rpm for 500 m. The obtained greige was scoured-set (190 ° C x 1 time)-dyeing-drying-
A series of finishing processes were performed, the final finishing width was set to 127 cm, and evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 3.0% / 28.1% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 0.11), and the stretchback ratio is 98.8% / 92.8%. Met.

[0053]

Comparative Example 4 In Example 1, weaving was performed using only the twisted yarn of the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch blended twisted yarn as the warp, and the obtained greige was subjected to a scouring-set (190 ° C. × Example 1: a series of treatments of (1) -dyeing-drying-finishing was performed, and the finishing width was set to 175 cm.
Was evaluated in the same way as The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 3.0% / 3.1% (stretch ratio ratio A / B
= 0.97), and the stretchback rate is 98.8% / 9
9.8%.

[0054]

[Comparative Example 5] In Example 1, the fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber constituting the stretch blended twisted yarn used for the warp was 2
The composition was made to 2 dtex, and the inelastic multifilament fiber and the twisted yarn were arranged in a 1: 2 arrangement. Weft is woven using only inelastic multifilament fiber twisted yarn,
The obtained greige was subjected to a series of processes of scouring-set (190 ° C. × 1 time) -dyeing-drying-finishing, and the finishing width was set to 17
It was set to 5 cm and evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 18.0% / 2.
5% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 7.20), and the stretch back ratio was 70.5% / 98.8%.

[0055]

Example 3 In Example 1, a stretch-twisted twisted yarn used for warp in Example 1 was used for the weft, and the weaving density (weft driving density) was 58 / 2.54 cm, and the deformed twill fabric was woven at 400 rpm. Evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that weaving was performed at a rotation speed of 500 m and the final finishing width was set to 124 cm. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 15.0% / 30.0% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 0.50), and the stretchback ratio is 78.9.
% / 77.2%.

[0056]

Comparative Example 6 In Example 3, the final finishing width was set to 121.
The evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that cm was set. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 13.0%.
/35.0% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 0.37), and the stretch back ratio was 78.3% / 77.0%. Subsequently, the superiority of the warp yarn of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the stretch fabric for bottoms of the present invention and the abrasion resistance of the woven fabric were examined in the following Examples and Comparative Examples.

[0057]

Example 4 The greige obtained in Example 3 was purified by scouring
A series of treatments of set (190 ° C. × 1 time) -dyeing-drying-finishing was performed, and the evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the final finishing width was set to 138 cm. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 27.8% / 22.0% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 1.26), and the stretchback ratio is 91.2% / 92.3%. Met.

[0058]

Example 5 Polyurethane-based elastic fibers (trade name: Leica manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 22 decitex as elastic fibers;
Polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) having a density of 84 dtex / 60f was used as the inelastic multifilament fiber. After stretching the elastic fiber 3.0 times (draft 3.0), send it to the interlacer nozzle,
On the other hand, the inelastic multifilament fiber is supplied to the interlacer nozzle at a yarn feeding tension of 2.5 cN / yarn, and after mixing both with air, at a winding speed of 500 m / min, manufactured by Murata Machine Co., Ltd. 303II which is a pan winder
It was wound up using a type (trade name). The number of confounds at this time was 25 / m. For the air entanglement treatment, a condition interlace with an air pressure of 294 kPa was performed using an interlacer nozzle type PC-220 (trade name) manufactured by Toray Precision Co., Ltd.

Next, a twisted yarn in the twisting direction Z was prepared. The twist yarn is a double twister 310 manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.
Use F type (trade name) and spindle speed 120
The twist was set to 00 rpm and the twist coefficient K was 13750 (the number of twists set on the machine was 1500 T / m). The twisted yarn obtained above was used in a glue-free state without setting for anti-blistering, using a partial warping machine type HB-M (trade name) manufactured by Kakinoki Co., Ltd. Winding speed 140
Warping with a length of 530 is performed at m / min, and the warp density (set density on the loom) is 108 pieces / 2.54 cm, and the thread width is 148 cm.
As a warp of type ZA209i (trade name), which is an air jet loom manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd.

For the weft, the same stretch blended twisted yarn as the warp was used, and the weft density (weft driving density) was 82/2.
The 2/2 twill fabric was woven at 54 cm at a loom speed of 500 rpm at 54 cm. The obtained greige was subjected to a series of processes of scouring-setting (190 ° C. × 1 time) -dyeing-drying-finishing, and the final finishing width was set to 97 cm. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 18.0% / 18.
0% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 1.00), and the stretch back ratio was 88.3% / 86.1%.

[0061]

Comparative Example 7 Evaluation was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the composite elastic yarn of the warp and the weft was changed to a conventional twisted yarn. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 23.8% / 22.6% (stretch ratio A / B =
1.05), the stretchback rate is 78.0% / 8
It was 8.8%.

The production conditions of the plied yarn were polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 167 dtex / 48f processed yarn (1 heater false twist yarn, Z direction false twist) as the inelastic multifilament fiber. The yarn feeding tension of the inelastic multifilament fiber is supplied to the interlacer nozzle at 33 cN / yarn, and one of the elastic fibers is the same polyurethane-based elastic fiber as in Example 1.
After elongating to 0-fold, both were air-entangled with an interlacer nozzle, and then wound up at a winding speed of 500 m / min using a 303II type (trade name) which is a pan winder manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. The number of confounds at this time was 10 pieces / m. The air entanglement treatment was performed using a type PC-220 (trade name) which is an interlacer nozzle manufactured by Toray Precision Co., Ltd., and air entangled under the condition of air pressure: 196 kPa.

Next, a twist yarn having a twist coefficient K of 9240 (a set twist number on a machine of 700 T / m) in a twist direction Z was prepared. In the weaving process, due to the lack of covering of the elastic fiber of the warp (blindness), friction with healds, reeds, etc.
Elastic fibers were frequently broken, and the weaving process was not stable. In addition, the finished woven fabric had elastic fibers on its surface, and the abrasion resistance according to the snagging evaluation was grade 2, so it was rejected.

[0064]

Comparative Example 8 Evaluation was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that FTY was used as the elastic composite yarn of the warp and the weft. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 2
5.1% / 20.3% (stretch ratio A / B = 1.2
4) The stretchback rate is 85.2% / 88.3%
Met. In the production of FTY, the sheath yarn is 450 m /
And a winding tension of 0.2 cN / decitex using a bobbin winder WH280 (trade name) manufactured by Kataoka Kikai Co., Ltd., and then an SSS, a spindle covering machine manufactured by Kataoka Kikai Co., Ltd. Covering was performed at 10,000 rpm using (trade name). Weaving shrinkage on the loom during weaving was large, and warp breaks at both ends of the woven fabric frequently occurred, and the weaving processability was not good. The finished woven fabric had a large fluffiness, and had a second-class abrasion resistance by snagging evaluation, and was rejected.

As can be seen from Tables 1 and 2, the stretch woven fabric for bottoms of the present invention has excellent weaving processability, excellent stretch performance, and by setting appropriate stretch performance, keeps comfortable wearing and good silhouette for a long time. It can be said that it is a stretch fabric for bottom with a texture.

[0066]

[Table 1]

[0067]

[Table 2]

[0068]

The stretch woven fabric for bottoms of the present invention has excellent process stability during weaving, and when it is made into garments, it does not easily wrinkle even when worn for a long time, maintains a beautiful silhouette for a long time, and has a feeling of oppression. It is a woven fabric with a twisted texture that is less fatigued due to its small amount and has excellent wear resistance.

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ───

[Procedure amendment]

[Submission date] August 28, 2001 (2001.8.2
8)

[Procedure amendment 1]

[Document name to be amended] Statement

[Correction target item name] Full text

[Correction method] Change

[Correction contents]

[Document Name] Statement

[Title of the Invention] Stretch fabric for bottom

[Claims]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretch woven fabric for bottoms, that is, an outer garment for a lower body such as slacks pants and a skirt, and more particularly to a stretch woven fabric which is excellent in wearing comfort, hardly wrinkles and hardly wears. The present invention relates to a stretch woven fabric for a bottom made of a stretch-mixed twisted yarn having excellent twistability and a twisted texture.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics used for bottom clothing are:
A good-looking non-stretch fabric with emphasis on stiffness (a stretch rate in both the warp and weft directions is less than 10%) is generally used. (Especially around the hip joint and around the back of the knee), and there is a disadvantage that a good-looking silhouette cannot be maintained for a long time.

Recently, bottom clothing having stretch properties has been marketed. Clothing having stretch performance has good follow-up properties with the skin during operation, so there is little feeling of pressure on each joint, and it is less tired, so it is excellent in comfort. However, most of them have stretching performance only in the weft (horizontal) direction. For bottom clothing applications,
If the stretching performance in the direction is poor, there is a problem that even when the stretching performance in the weft (horizontal) direction is sufficient, the tire is easily fatigued as in the non-stretched product, and wrinkles are easily generated. Because, unlike the upper body, the movement of the lower body is mainly in the sitting position, and the clothing for the bottom, which has insufficient stretching performance in the meridional direction, causes extreme fabric tightness and dubble around the knee and hip joint, An uncomfortable feeling of pressure and wrinkles occur.
At this time, if the stretching performance in the warp (vertical) direction is sufficient, the unreasonable tension and dubble around the joints are alleviated, the feeling of oppression is not felt, and the generation of wrinkles due to the dubble can be reduced. Therefore, the bottom garment needs an appropriate stretch performance in the warp (vertical) direction.

[0004] For example, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-355846, the ratio (A / B) of the stretch ratio (A) in the warp direction and the stretch ratio (B) in the weft direction is disclosed.
If the skirt is used such that the woven fabric becomes 0.4 or less,
It is stated that a sufficient effect of suppressing weft wrinkles can be expected. However, the use of this fabric is limited to tight skirts and culottes, and in particular, pants and long skirts that cover below the knee have no effect because the fabric does not follow the warp direction. Therefore, development of a bottom product having sufficient stretching performance in the longitudinal direction has been strongly desired.

[0005] However, it has been difficult and difficult to commercialize a woven fabric having a stretch performance in the warp (vertical) direction with stable quality. For example, a composite yarn (hereinafter, referred to as FTY) covering an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber for such an application, and a conjugated composite yarn (hereinafter, referred to as “FTY”) in which an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber are aligned and twisted. A composite yarn (hereinafter referred to as A) in which an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber are air-entangled.
Many methods using an elastic composite yarn such as JY) are known. However, when these yarns are used for warp,
There are various problems, and a woven fabric having stable quality cannot be obtained.

[0006] For example, when FTY or AJY is used for the warp, a yarn with a paste applied in the sizing step is often used as the warp in order to stabilize the weaving process. This sizing step is intended to improve the friction resistance of the warp by a reed, a heald, or the like in the weaving step by providing a glue film on the warp to make the surface smooth. In the sizing step, it is necessary to pass through the hot air or to contact the high-temperature cylinder in order to dry the liquid glue applied to the warp, and the heat at the time of this drying changes the characteristics of the elastic fiber. However, there was a problem that the fabric cannot be formed. As a method to avoid this, there is a method of weaving without glue,
In this case, FTY or AJY, which has poor convergence, is liable to be twisted due to friction with a heald or a reed at the time of weaving. Efficiency is reduced and it is difficult to produce a uniform fabric.

[0007] In the case of ply-twisted yarn, each yarn is plied before twisting. The laying method includes a method of simply aligning and winding an elastic fiber and a non-elastic multifilament fiber, and a method of winding 10 yarns.
There is a method of giving a sweet twist of about 0 T / m or less. In any case, since the air yarn is not applied to the plied yarn before twisting, the covering property of the elastic fiber is insufficient. In addition, the elastic fibers are liable to cause defects in the surface of the elastic fibers, and the friction between the elastic fibers and a heald or a reed at the time of weaving tends to cause a defect in durability such as breaking of the elastic fibers. Therefore, the weaving process is not stable, and as a result, the quality of the fabric is not stable. In addition, even if air treatment is performed, the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers are simply connected at some points, so that the elastic fibers are streaked as described above, causing a problem.

On the other hand, many methods have been proposed in which only polyethylene terephthalate fibers are used without using elastic fibers. For example, false twisted yarn,
There are stretch woven fabrics using conjugate yarns, different shrinkage mixed yarns, etc., but also in these, the texture point of warp / weft is limited to a loose woven fabric in order to sufficiently exhibit the stretching performance of the woven fabric. . As a result, not only is the abrasion resistance of the woven fabric inferior, but also if it is combined with other fibers to express the functionality of the material other than the stretch performance, the stretch performance will be reduced, making it difficult to expand into a wide range of product fields. In the situation.

[0009] Given this technical background, the production of one-way stretch fabrics and two-way stretch fabrics has been avoided.
The production of one-way stretch fabrics, which are relatively easy to manufacture, has become the mainstream, and there are many one-way stretch fabrics for bottom use. In terms of appearance, it is not always satisfactory.

[0010]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide excellent process stability during weaving, and when sewing on garments, it is difficult for wrinkles to form even when worn for a long time, keeping a beautiful silhouette for a long time, It is an object of the present invention to provide a high-quality stretch fabric for bottoms, which is low in fatigue, hardly fatigued, excellent in abrasion resistance, and has a twisted texture.

[0011]

The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, the mixed state of the elastic fibers and the inelastic multifilament fibers is important for the quality of the fabric and the stability of the production process. The present inventors have found that a comfortable bottom fabric can be obtained by finishing the fabric with a specific stretch property, and have completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention is as follows. (1) A stretch woven fabric having a stretch ratio of at least 15 to 30% and a stretchback ratio of at least 75% in the warp direction, wherein at least all of the stretch-mixed twisted yarns composed of elastic fibers and inelastic multifilament fibers are all warps. Or a stretch fabric for bottoms, which is used in part. (2) A stretch in which the ratio (A / B) of the stretch ratio (A) in the warp direction and the stretch ratio (B) in the weft direction is 0.5 to 30, and the stretch ratio in the weft direction is 30% or less. The stretch woven fabric for bottom according to (1), wherein a stretch-mixed twisted yarn comprising an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber is used for all or a part of the warp and the weft. .

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The bottom fabric is a fabric used for outer clothing of the lower body, particularly slacks pants and skirts. The fabric constituting the stretch fabric for bottom of the present invention has a length of 15 to 30 in the warp direction.
% Stretch rate. The warp direction here includes the warp direction when the woven fabric having the stretch performance in the weft direction is reversed in the cutting and sewing steps after weaving.

[0014] When the stretch ratio in the warp direction of the woven fabric is less than 15%, the feeling of pressure received from the garment during bending or stretching, or in the sitting position is particularly large around the buttocks and the knees, and the user feels discomfort and fatigue. Further, if worn for a long time, many weft wrinkles are formed around the hip joint and the knee joint, and the appearance is deteriorated. In addition, when an excessively bent state such as sitting straight is continued for a long time, blood circulation below the knee is deteriorated, and numbness of the foot is liable to occur, thereby increasing discomfort. Stretch rate in the warp direction of the fabric is 30
%, The stiffness of the fabric disappears,
By repeatedly wearing and washing pants such as slacks using the woven fabric for a long period of time, the hem is elongated.

The stretch back ratio in the warp direction of the stretch fabric for bottoms of the present invention is 75% or more. When the stretchback rate is less than 75%, the wrinkles once attached to the fabric remain for a long time without recovery. In addition, a knee dropout occurs around the knee where the telescopic movement is frequently performed. Therefore, the higher the stretchback ratio, the better. The stretch fabric for bottoms of the present invention may have stretchability and stretchback properties also in the weft direction. In this case, the composite elastic yarn used for the weft is preferably a stretch-mixed twisted yarn, and the yarn configuration is preferably the same yarn configuration and twist direction as the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used for the warp of this woven fabric. The stretch rate in the weft direction should be less than 30% to give the fabric a firmness and stiffness, improve the creasing of the iron, express a good-looking silhouette and give a luxurious texture without rubber-like preferable. It is preferable that the stretch-back rate in the weft direction is 75% or more in order to make it difficult for the knee to fall around the knee which has a lot of stretching motion.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the stretch ratio (A) in the warp direction is 15 to 30% and the stretch ratio in the weft direction is 30% or less. ) Is preferably 0.5 to 30, and more preferably 0.75 to 3.0. The reason is considered as follows. Among the movements of the lower body of the human, the maximum stretch ratio of the skin in the warp / latitudinal direction, especially when the kneecap is flexed / stretched, is 2.0, and the longitudinal stretch is larger than that in the latitudinal direction. It is. In order for the lower body to move smoothly, it is preferable that the magnitude relationship between the stretch ratios required for the clothing in the meridional direction and the latitudinal direction is designed so that the longitudinal direction is greater than the latitudinal direction. When the stretch ratio (A / B) is less than 0.5, the deviation from the maximum elongation ratio (2.0) of the kneecap skin part becomes large, the ability of the clothing to follow the movement of the joints becomes dull, and the wearing comfort becomes poor. Bad, tired and wrinkled. If the stretch ratio (A / B) exceeds 30, the stretch ratio in the warp direction becomes excessive and the hem grows due to repeated wearing and washing of pants such as slacks for a long period of time, lacking form stability and silhouette. And the texture is reduced.

The present invention is also characterized in that a stretch blended twisted yarn of an elastic fiber and a non-elastic multifilament fiber is used for at least all or a part of the warp. Stretch blended twisted yarn refers to a twisted yarn obtained by subjecting drafted elastic fiber and inelastic multifilament fiber to air blending and entanglement treatment, and the elastic fiber is sufficiently covered with inelastic multifilament fiber. It is a composite elastic yarn in a state where it is set.

In the present invention, the use of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn further improves the effect of suppressing wrinkles and improving the texture by using the twisted yarn effect. As for the wrinkles, the flatter the yarn, the more easily the bending angle becomes large, and as a result, the distortion remains and the wrinkles are formed. The stretch-mixed twisted yarn is a composite elastic yarn to which a twist yarn has been added, and the bending angle applied to the yarn is reduced due to the twist angle, wrinkles are hardly formed, and even if wrinkles are once formed, it is easily eliminated. About texture, FTY
Unlike general stretch fabrics with a fluffy feel, such as AJY and AJY, the twisted fabric has the texture of sharpness and texture on thin ground, which is a characteristic of twisted fabrics.

The stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention is not only sufficiently air-entangled at the time of twining, but also has improved bunching properties and elastic fiber covering properties due to the twisting of the twined yarn, thus improving the weaving process. Also, the quality (there is no elastic fiber blindness) is good. The twisted yarn constituting the conventional twisted touch fabric does not air-blend at the time of twisting the elastic fiber and the inelastic multifilament fiber, or provides only a slight entanglement point. Poor coatability, poor weaving process, poor dryness, poor quality.

Preferably, the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention is fed into the interlacing device together with the inelastic multifilament fiber while drafting the elastic fiber by 2 to 4 times, and air-mixed and entangled. It was carried out, and then is produced by twisting. The step of air-mixing and entanglement of both the elastic fiber and the inelastic multifilament fiber and the step of twisting may be performed in separate steps,
Alternatively, AJY may be twisted. In this case, the AJY yarn supply package is often in the form of cheese, and when twisting this, a pre-process for rewinding it into a form that can be set on a twisting machine, that is, a winding process may be necessary.

The air-fiber entanglement treatment for producing the stretch-fiber-twisted yarn used in the present invention is preferably carried out on the elastic fiber.
The air-mixing and entanglement treatment is performed by using an interlacer nozzle or the like while aligning with the inelastic multifilament fiber while drafting up to 4 times. At this time, a tension of 0.1 cN / decitex or less is applied to the inelastic multifilament fiber. The yarn may be fed to the interlacer nozzle, or the yarn may be fed while applying an overfeed of 5% or less.

When the non-elastic multifilament fiber is a raw yarn (yarn that has not been crimped by false twisting or the like), overfeed is preferable, and when it is a crimped yarn, the overfeed is up to 3%. It is preferred to feed. On the other hand, with regard to the elastic fiber, once the draft is applied, the overdraft (draft mitigation measure) of about 5% or less is applied to the draft before the yarn is fed to the interlace nozzle, so that the elastic fiber becomes more near the core. And a stretch-mixed twisted yarn having high covering properties with inelastic multifilament fibers can be obtained.

The device for air-mixing and entanglement of the elastic fiber and the inelastic multifilament fiber is not particularly limited as long as it has a mechanism capable of drawing the elastic fiber to a draft of about 2 to 4 times. An elastic fiber feeding device using a method in which the speed ratio between the winding speed and the feeding speed is maintained at a constant ratio or an elastic fiber feeding device using a tension controller or only the elastic fiber is drawn 2 to 4 times, and the wound yarn supply body is used in the next step. The inelastic multifilament may be entangled with the air-mixed fiber. In the winding after the air-entangled fiber entanglement, there is no problem even if the actual twist of about 100 T / m enters when a ring twisting machine is used.

The number of entanglements after intertwining with the air-mixed fiber varies depending on the type of inelastic multifilament fiber, and is 20 to 40 ko / m for raw yarn, and 30 for bulky yarn such as false twisted yarn.
By controlling it to 50 cores / m, stable production can be achieved in the subsequent twisting step, and coating of the elastic fiber is most effectively performed. As the interlacer nozzle, for example, use is made of an interlacer nozzle sold by Awa Spindle Co., etc., such as Type PC-220 (trade name) of Toray Precision Co., Ltd., Type HFP-P221 (trade name) of Hebrew Line Co., Ltd. be able to.

The method of measuring the number of confounds is to use a confounding number measuring device ETM-2 (trade name) manufactured by Nippon Detector Co., Ltd., and set the setting mode to 1 for processed yarn. Set the setting mode to 2 and measure according to the instructions of the measuring instrument. As a means for twisting the mixed fiber obtained by subjecting the elastic fiber and the inelastic multifilament fiber to the air entanglement treatment, any equipment capable of twisting with a twist coefficient in the range of 5000 to 30000 may be used. The most preferred is a double twister which is a twisting machine. In addition, an Italy twisting machine, a ring twisting machine, a covering machine and the like can be used, and there is no particular limitation.

In twisting, the twist coefficient is preferably 50
Twisting is performed so as to be 00 to 30,000. The twist coefficient K is a value obtained by multiplying the square root of the total fineness obtained by combining the fineness (B) of the inelastic multifilament fiber and the fineness (C) of the drafted elastic fiber by the number of twists per meter (T). , Calculated by the following equation. K = ((B + C)) T For example, the elastic fiber 22 dtex is stretched at a draft 3.0 times, and the air-mixed fiber is intertwined with the inelastic multifilament fiber 84 dtex to form a twisted yarn of 1000 T / m. The coefficient K is 91.3 dtex 1000 T / m = 9560.

As another means for obtaining the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention, for example, POY is firstly set by a false twisting machine.
After the false twisting of the false twisted yarn and the elastic fiber, the yarn may be air entangled and then twisted.
The OY and the elastic fiber may be put in at the same time, air-entangled before winding, and then twisted. As described above, in the present invention, by using the stretch-mixed twisted yarn and imparting appropriate stretch performance to the woven fabric, the movement of the lower body becomes smooth, and not only everyday life, but also light sports, golf, trekking, nursing bottom, etc. The effect can also be widely expected.

Examples of the elastic fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention include polyurethane-based and polyetherester-based elastic yarns. For example, dry-spun or melt-spun polyurethane elastic fibers can be used. The polymer and spinning method are not particularly limited. The fineness of the elastic fiber is preferably 17 to 156 dtex, more preferably 22 to 44 dtex. The elongation at break is preferably from 400 to 1200%. By setting the normal processing temperature in each dry heat setting step at the time of the dyeing process to 200 or less, a decrease in elasticity can be prevented.

As the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention, a known type or form of fiber can be used. For example, cupra,
Various fibers such as regenerated cellulose fibers such as viscose rayon, natural fibers having a filament form such as silk, and synthetic fibers such as acetate, polyester, and nylon. In addition, round cross section, irregular cross section, hollow cross section, original yarn, undrawn yarn (including POY), high-speed spun yarn (for example, spin take-up or spin draw take-up), thick and thin yarn, design yarn, false twist yarn, etc. Crimped yarn, etc., and may be a composite yarn combining one or more of these fiber types and forms (using known composite means such as blending, entanglement, intertwisting, composite false twisting, fluid jet processing, etc.). It is sufficient to select. It is also effective to use a yarn-dyed yarn or the like as the inelastic multifilament fiber. In this case, it is preferable to perform a relaxation process in order to exert the stretch characteristics.

The number of filaments of the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention is preferably 10 filaments or more, and the single-fiber fineness is preferably 4.0 decitex or less, 30 filaments or more, and single-fiber fineness 3.0. The following is more preferred. The total fineness of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the present invention is preferably from 40 to 920 decitex, and more preferably from 70 to 200 decitex. If it is less than 40 decitex, the durability for the bottom is reduced, the fabric is liable to be free from tension and stiffness, and the ratio of elastic fibers is increased, resulting in a rubber-like fabric. If it exceeds 920 decitex, it tends to be a thick and coarsely woven fabric.

By performing the air-mixing and entanglement treatment under the above-described conditions, the covering property of the elastic fiber is improved, and the performance of the elastic fiber is exhibited without unevenness even after twisting. A stretch blended twisted yarn is obtained. This stretch-mixed twisted yarn has a compact yarn form (while FTY and AJY have a bulky yarn form) due to the twisting effect, and when formed into a woven fabric, has a large degree of freedom (space ratio) within the woven fabric structure. Become. As a result, the stretching performance is easily exhibited.

In the present invention, a woven fabric structure in which warp / weft tissue points are loose such as a stretch woven fabric made of only polyethylene terephthalate fibers (false twisted yarns, conjugate yarns, different shrinkage mixed yarns, etc.) without using elastic fibers. It is not necessary to limit to a high quality stretch woven fabric that can exhibit sufficient stretch performance even in a woven fabric structure (flat, 2/1 twill, 2/2 twill, etc.) with many constraint points and has excellent abrasion resistance. Obtainable.

In the present invention, a stretch-mixed twisted yarn is used for at least all or a part of the warp. However, when the stretch-mixed twisted yarn is used for a part of the warp, the type of the other fiber is not limited. Preferably, a yarn obtained by twisting the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn under the same conditions as the stretch-mixed twisted yarn is used. In this case, in the case of warp, it is preferable that the stretch blended twisted yarn: the other fiber has a regular arrangement of 1: 2 to 3: 1. In the case of an irregular arrangement, a streak defect may appear. Even in the case of a regular arrangement, it is more effective to weave by passing through the reeds for each minimum number of repeats to prevent a warp defect. The minimum number of repeats is 4 in order to smooth the opening of each warp in the reed feathers, reduce unevenness in tension and uneven opening, and improve the weaving process and stabilize the quality.
The following is preferred.

When the regular arrangement ratio of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn: the other fibrous body is less than 1: 2, for example, 1: 3 or 1: 4, the stretching force of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn in the woven fabric is reduced, and the desired strength is obtained. It becomes difficult to obtain a stretch fabric having stretch characteristics. On the other hand, when the regular arrangement ratio exceeds 3: 1, for example, 4: 1 or 5: 1, the stretchability of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn and the torque balance with the other fibrous body are easily lost, and it looks like a warp defect. There are cases. The type of the woven fabric is not particularly limited, and may be a flat structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, or a structure combining these structures. However, if the warp / weft texture point has a loose structure in order to bring out stretching performance, the friction resistance performance such as snagging and pilling is inferior, so that a flat structure or a twill structure is more preferable.

The warp and weft densities of the woven fabric are as follows.
In the case of 0 to 920 decitex, the warp density is 40 to 22.
In the case of 0 yarns / 2.54 cm and weft fineness of 40 to 920 decitex, the weft density may be set in the range of 40 to 220 yarns / 2.54 cm depending on the fabric structure and application. The loom for weaving is not particularly limited, and air jet loom, water jet loom, rapier loom,
It can be produced using a gripper room, a shuttle loom or the like. Further, in these looms, a mechanism may be provided in the loom between the warp beam and the heddle so that the warp yarn or the like is attached to the warp yarns, so that the friction of the warp yarns is reduced, the generation of fluff is suppressed, and the weaving processability is improved.

[0036]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. Stretch characteristics, wearing pressure, momentum, weft wrinkles, silhouette, bagging, snuggling,
The evaluation method of texture and weaving processability is as follows. (1) Stretch characteristics of woven fabric Stretch characteristics of woven fabric are described in JIS-L-1080 (19).
78), measured according to the B method (constant load method), and the items of elongation rate and elongation recovery rate are represented as stretch rate and stretch back rate.

(2) Measurement of Wearing Pressure (Evaluation of Wearing) A multipoint clothes pressure measuring device (AM13037-10 manufactured by AIM Techno Co., Ltd.) was used as a measuring device, and three pressure sensors were placed around the kneecap and the thigh. Attach one point on the back and one point on the center of the buttocks, for a total of five places. Wear each fabric sample sewn in slacks, lift your feet from the upright position,
At the time of reaching 20 degrees, reciprocating movement of lowering the foot by 30 feet
50 times at a speed of deg / sec, of which 20 to 40
The total value of the average value of each part of 20 times corresponding to the number of times is used as the measured value.

(3) Measurement of Momentum (Evaluation of Wearing) Using a human body load momentum measuring device (manufactured by Biotex System) as a measuring device, each fabric sample sewn with slacks is worn, and the leg is lifted from the upright posture, and the knee is lifted. When the angle reaches 120 degrees, reciprocating motion of lowering the foot is performed 50 times at a speed of 30 deg / sec.
The value of 20 times corresponding to around 40 times is used as a measurement value, and is used as an index of fatigue easiness.

(4) Weft wrinkles (evaluation of wearing) Each sample sewn on slacks was worn for 5 consecutive days.
During this time, site work such as weaving preparation work and office work are repeated for 8 hours / day. The slacks after being worn are placed on a horizontal table, and the degree of occurrence of wrinkles around the back of the knee before and after wearing is divided into five grades, and evaluated by sensory evaluation. Woven wrinkles are visible (5 points), weft wrinkles are visible but not bothersome (4 points), and weft wrinkles are slightly worrisome (3 points). Woven fabrics ~ (2 points), wrinkles very worried fabric (1 point)
And give a five-point score. The evaluation is ranked by five persons and is represented by the average value. A woven fabric having an evaluation of 3 to 5 points is considered to be a wrinkle-resistant woven fabric.

(5) Silhouette (Evaluation of Wear) Each sample sewn on the slacks was worn for 5 consecutive days.
During this time, site work such as weaving preparation work and office work are repeated for 8 hours / day. Appearance centered on the folds before and after wearing and the degree of knee dislocation were determined by actual and photographic judgment.
It is divided into stages and evaluated by sensory evaluation. A good state in which the fold is almost unchanged (5 points), a state in which the fold is slightly weak but not bothersome ~ (4 points), and a state in which the remaining fold is slightly anxious (3 points) The state where the remaining level of the fold is worrisome (2 points), the state where the remaining level of the fold is very worrisome, and the state where the knee slipping is somewhat felt (1 point)
Points) and assign a five-point score. The evaluation is ranked by five persons and is represented by the average value. Those having an evaluation of 3 to 5 points are regarded as a beautifully woven fabric with a silhouette.

(6) Bagging (Evaluation of Shape Loss such as Knee Loss) Bagging is performed in accordance with JIS-L-1061 (Method A flexion repetition method).
Measure according to.

(7) Snagging (Evaluation of abrasion resistance) Snagging is measured according to the snag test method of JIS-L-1058 (D-3 method, Freing method).

(8) Texture (Tensile Touch) The woven fabric is placed on a horizontal table, and the degree of the texture (texture touch such as grain and sharpness) of the woven fabric is divided into five levels and evaluated by sensory evaluation. Fabric with good twist touch feeling (5
Point), a fabric with a slight lack of twist touch feeling ~ (4 points), a fabric with a slightly weak twist touch feeling (3 points), a fabric with little twist touch feeling ~ (2 points), a twist touch feeling The non-woven fabric is designated as (1 point) and given a score of 5 levels. The evaluation is ranked by five persons and is represented by the average value. Evaluation is 3 ~
The five points are considered to be elegant fabrics with good grain standing. In addition,
Each slacks sample used for the wearing evaluation is sewn by the same cutting method and the same size according to the physique of the subject. The clearance around the knee is 15%.

(9) Weaving process characteristics In manufacturing a 500-m fabric, the number of times the loom is stopped is determined by the warp factor (thread breakage, elastic fiber breakage, fluffing, etc.) and the weft factor (yarn breakage, arrival delay, poor arrival, etc.). ), And the number of stops is 0 to 5 times excellent, 6 to 10 times good, 1
1 to 20 times are acceptable, and 21 times or more are not acceptable. The weft arrival delay or poor arrival refers to a phenomenon in which the weft does not arrive within a certain predetermined rotational crank angle range of the loom without being stabilized, and the weft does not arrive or is not reached. The following examples and comparative examples will be examined in order to examine appropriate stretch characteristics and stretch ratios in each direction and stretch ratios (A / B) in the warp / weft directions.

[0045]

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) as an inelastic multifilament fiber 21
An undrawn yarn of 1 dtex / 48f was drawn at a ratio of 1.26 times with a Mach 33H (trade name) manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., a heater (set temperature: 200), a twist number of 2100 T / m, and a winding speed of 600 m /. For 167 minutes.
A yarn equivalent to decitex was prepared. Next, type AT-, an air covering device manufactured by Aiki Seisakusho, Ltd.
Using 501 (trade name), the yarn (drawn false twisted yarn) and the elastic fiber were air-mixed and entangled. As the elastic fiber, a polyurethane-based elastic fiber Loica (registered trademark, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 44 dtex is stretched 3.0 times (draft of the elastic fiber becomes 3.0) and immediately before entering the interlacer nozzle. Received 2% overfeeding (draft mitigation measures). One inelastic multifilament fiber was over-feeded by 2%, and the two were air-mixed and entangled by an interlacer nozzle. Then
While giving a twist number of 15 T / m to the mixed fiber entangled yarn,
The film was wound at a speed of 0 m / min. The number of confounds at this time is 35
Co / m. Type HFP, an interlacer nozzle manufactured by Heberline Co., Ltd.
Using P-221 (trade name), air-entangled and entangled under the condition of air pressure of 392 kPa.

Using the yarn obtained here, twist coefficient K is 924
0 (the number of twists set on the machine is 700 T / m), the twist direction Z
Was produced. For the twist yarn, use a 310F type (trade name) which is a double twister manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.
The yarn was twisted at a spindle rotation speed of 10,000 rpm. The above-obtained twisted yarn is wound up using a type HB-M (trade name) which is a partial warping machine manufactured by Kakinoki Co., Ltd., without setting for anti-bism, in a glue-free state. Speed 140
Warping with a length of 530 m at m / min, warp density (set density on loom) 109 / 2.54 cm, thread width 185c
m, it was set as a warp yarn on an air jet loom type ZA209i (trade name) manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd.

The weft yarn is a polyethylene terephthalate fiber of an inelastic multifilament fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation), which is a companion yarn constituting a warp-stretch-twisted yarn.
Only 167 decitex / 48f processed yarn (1 heater false twist, Z direction false twist) was formed at 700 T / m to make a twist yarn in twist direction Z, and the weft density (weft driving density) was 58/2.
The deformed twill fabric was woven at 54 cm at 500 rpm at a loom rotation speed of 400 rpm. Next, the obtained green fabric was subjected to a series of processes of scouring-setting (200 times) -dyeing-drying-finishing, and the final finishing width was set to 175 cm.

The stretch ratio of the obtained fabric in the warp / weft direction was 15.8% / 2.3% (stretch ratio ratio A / B =
6.87), the stretchback rate is 78.4% / 9
It was 8.1%. Table 1 shows the structure and weavability of the warp and the weft, and Table 2 shows the performance of the obtained woven fabric. Hereinafter, similarly, the configurations and weaving properties of the warps and the wefts of Examples 2 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 are shown in Table 1, and the performance of the obtained woven fabric is shown in Table 2.

[0049]

Comparative Example 1 Evaluation was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the polyurethane elastic fiber used for warp, Leica (registered trademark, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation), 22 dtex, was used. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 12.8% / 2.9% (stretch ratio ratio A / B
= 4.41), and the stretch back rate is 76.4% / 9.
It was 8.8%.

[0050]

Example 2 In Example 1, the fineness of the polyurethane elastic fibers constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used for the warp was 2
2 dtex, weaving using only the inelastic multifilament fiber twist yarn as the weft, and then performing a series of scouring-set (190 once) -dyeing-drying-finishing on the obtained greige material. Set the finishing width to 175cm,
Evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretch ratio of the obtained fabric in the warp / weft direction is 30.0% / 1.1% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 27.27), and the stretchback ratio is 8
2.4% / 98.8%.

[0051]

Comparative Example 2 In Example 1, weaving was performed using only the inelastic multifilament fiber twisted yarn as the weft, and the resulting greige was scoured-set (190 once) -dyeing-drying-
A series of finishing processes were performed, the final finishing width was set to 175 cm, and evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 34.0% / 1.1% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 30.91), and the stretchback ratio is 88.6% / 99.8%. Met.

[0052]

Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, only the twisted yarn of the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-mixed twisted yarn was used for the warp, and the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used for the warp in Example 1 was used for the weft. Using a weft density (weft driving density) of 58 yarns / 2.54 cm, a deformed twill fabric of 40
Weaving was performed at a loom rotation speed of 0 rpm for 500 m. The obtained greige was subjected to a series of processes of scouring-set (190 once) -dyeing-drying-finishing, and was set to a final finishing width of 127 cm. Of the obtained woven fabric /
The stretch ratio in the weft direction was 3.0% / 28.1% (stretch ratio A / B = 0.11), and the stretchback ratio was 98.8% / 92.8%.

[0053]

Comparative Example 4 In Example 1, weaving was performed using only the twisted yarn of the inelastic multifilament fiber constituting the stretch-blended twisted yarn as the warp, and the obtained greige was subjected to a scouring-set (190 times ) -Dyeing-Drying-Finishing was performed, and the finishing width was set to 175 cm. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 3.0% / 3.1% (stretch ratio A / B =
0.97), the stretchback rate is 98.8% / 9
9.8%.

[0054]

[Comparative Example 5] In Example 1, the fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber constituting the stretch blended twisted yarn used for the warp was 2
The composition was made to 2 dtex, and the inelastic multifilament fiber and the twisted yarn were arranged in a 1: 2 arrangement. Weft is woven using only inelastic multifilament fiber twisted yarn,
The obtained greige was subjected to a series of processes of scouring-set (190 once) -dyeing-drying-finishing, and the finishing width was set to 175.
cm, and evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 18.0% / 2.5.
% (Stretch ratio ratio A / B = 7.20), and the stretch back ratio was 70.5% / 98.8%.

[0055]

Example 3 In Example 1, a stretch-twisted twisted yarn used for warp in Example 1 was used for the weft, and the weaving density (weft driving density) was 58 / 2.54 cm, and the deformed twill fabric was woven at 400 rpm. Evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that weaving was performed at a rotation speed of 500 m and the final finishing width was set to 124 cm. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 15.0% / 30.0% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 0.50), and the stretchback ratio is 78.9.
% / 77.2%.

[0056]

Comparative Example 6 In Example 3, the final finishing width was set to 121.
The evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that cm was set. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 13.0%.
/35.0% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 0.37), and the stretch back ratio was 78.3% / 77.0%. Subsequently, the superiority of the warp yarn of the stretch-mixed twisted yarn used in the stretch fabric for bottoms of the present invention and the abrasion resistance of the woven fabric were examined in the following Examples and Comparative Examples.

[0057]

Example 4 The greige obtained in Example 3 was purified by scouring
A series of processing of set (190 times) -dyeing-drying-finishing was performed, and the evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the final finishing width was set to 138 cm. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric is 27.8% / 22.0% (stretch ratio ratio A / B = 1.26), and the stretchback ratio is 91.2% / 92.3%. Met.

[0058]

Example 5 Polyurethane-based elastic fibers (trade name: Leica manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 22 decitex as elastic fibers;
Polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) having a density of 84 dtex / 60f was used as the inelastic multifilament fiber. After stretching the elastic fiber 3.0 times (draft 3.0), send it to the interlacer nozzle,
On the other hand, the inelastic multifilament fiber is supplied to the interlacer nozzle at a yarn feeding tension of 2.5 cN / yarn, and after mixing both with air, at a winding speed of 500 m / min, manufactured by Murata Machine Co., Ltd. 303II which is a pan winder
It was wound up using a type (trade name). The number of confounds at this time was 25 / m. For the air entanglement treatment, a condition interlace with an air pressure of 294 kPa was performed using an interlacer nozzle type PC-220 (trade name) manufactured by Toray Precision Co., Ltd.

Next, a twisted yarn in the twisting direction Z was prepared. The twist yarn is a double twister 310 manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.
Use F type (trade name) and spindle speed 120
The twist was set to 00 rpm and the twist coefficient K was 13750 (the number of twists set on the machine was 1500 T / m). The twisted yarn obtained above was used in a glue-free state without setting for anti-blistering, using a partial warping machine type HB-M (trade name) manufactured by Kakinoki Co., Ltd. Winding speed 140
Warping with a length of 530 is performed at m / min, and the warp density (set density on the loom) is 108 pieces / 2.54 cm, and the thread width is 148 cm.
As a warp of type ZA209i (trade name), which is an air jet loom manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd.

For the weft, the same stretch blended twisted yarn as the warp was used, and the weft density (weft driving density) was 82/2.
The 2/2 twill fabric was woven at 54 cm at a loom speed of 500 rpm at 54 cm. The obtained greige was subjected to a series of processes of scouring-set (190 once) -dyeing-drying-finishing, and was set to a final finishing width of 97 cm. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 18.0% / 18.0.
% (Stretch ratio ratio A / B = 1.00), and the stretch back ratio was 88.3% / 86.1%.

[0061]

Comparative Example 7 Evaluation was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the composite elastic yarn of the warp and the weft was changed to a conventional twisted yarn. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 23.8% / 22.6% (stretch ratio A / B =
1.05), the stretchback rate is 78.0% / 8
It was 8.8%.

The production conditions of the plied yarn were polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 167 dtex / 48f processed yarn (1 heater false twist yarn, Z direction false twist) as the inelastic multifilament fiber. The yarn feeding tension of the inelastic multifilament fiber is supplied to the interlacer nozzle at 33 cN / yarn, and one of the elastic fibers is the same polyurethane-based elastic fiber as in Example 1.
After elongating to 0-fold, both were air-entangled with an interlacer nozzle, and then wound up at a winding speed of 500 m / min using a 303II type (trade name) which is a pan winder manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. The number of confounds at this time was 10 pieces / m. The air entanglement treatment was performed using a type PC-220 (trade name) which is an interlacer nozzle manufactured by Toray Precision Co., Ltd., and air entangled under the condition of air pressure: 196 kPa.

Next, a twist yarn having a twist coefficient K of 9240 (a set twist number on a machine of 700 T / m) in a twist direction Z was prepared. In the weaving process, due to the lack of covering of the elastic fiber of the warp (blindness), friction with healds, reeds, etc.
Elastic fibers were frequently broken, and the weaving process was not stable. In addition, the finished woven fabric had elastic fibers on its surface, and the abrasion resistance according to the snagging evaluation was grade 2, so it was rejected.

[0064]

Comparative Example 8 Evaluation was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that FTY was used as the elastic composite yarn of the warp and the weft. The stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction of the obtained woven fabric was 2
5.1% / 20.3% (stretch ratio A / B = 1.2
4) The stretchback rate is 85.2% / 88.3%
Met. In the production of FTY, the sheath yarn is 450 m /
And a winding tension of 0.2 cN / decitex using a bobbin winder WH280 (trade name) manufactured by Kataoka Machinery Co., Ltd., and then an SSS (spindle covering machine manufactured by Kataoka Machinery Co., Ltd.) Covering was performed at 10,000 rpm using (trade name). Weaving shrinkage on the loom during weaving was large, and warp breaks at both ends of the woven fabric frequently occurred, and the weaving processability was not good. The finished woven fabric had a large fluffiness, and had a second-class abrasion resistance by snagging evaluation, and was rejected.

As can be seen from Tables 1 and 2, the stretch woven fabric for bottoms of the present invention has excellent weaving processability, excellent stretch performance, and by setting appropriate stretch performance, keeps comfortable wearing and good silhouette for a long time. It can be said that it is a stretch fabric for bottom with a texture.

[0066]

[Table 1]

[0067]

[Table 2]

[0068]

The stretch woven fabric for bottoms of the present invention has excellent process stability during weaving, and when it is made into garments, it does not easily wrinkle even when worn for a long time, maintains a beautiful silhouette for a long time, and has a feeling of oppression. It is a woven fabric with a twisted texture that is less fatigued due to its small amount and has excellent wear resistance.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) A41D 31/00 A41D 31/00 C 501 501E 502 502B 503 503G 503K

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A stretch woven fabric having a stretch ratio of at least 15 to 30% in the warp direction and a stretchback ratio of at least 75%, wherein at least a stretch-mixed twisted yarn comprising elastic fibers and inelastic multifilament fibers is a warp. Stretch fabric for bottoms, which is used for all or a part of the stretch fabric. 2. The ratio (A / B) of the stretch ratio (A) in the warp direction and the stretch ratio (B) in the weft direction is 0.5 to 30.
And a stretch woven fabric having a stretch ratio of 30% or less in a weft direction, wherein a stretch-mixed twisted yarn comprising an elastic fiber and an inelastic multifilament fiber is used for all or a part of a warp and a weft. The stretch woven fabric for a bottom according to claim 1, wherein: