Accompanying drawing is sketched
Describe in detail and carry out with reference to the following drawings, wherein identical label represents identical element, and wherein:
Fig. 1 illustrates the cladded yarn with two kinds of flexible core.
Fig. 2 is the schematic description of the core spinning equipment of two drafting systems had for two kinds of exposed elastomers.
Fig. 3 is the schematic description of the core spinning equipment comprising two drafting systems with weight roller.
Fig. 4 is the schematic description of the core spinning equipment of two drafting systems had for a kind of exposed elastomer and a kind of elastomeric yarn coated in advance.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
Elastomeric fibre is often used in providing stretching and elasticity to recover in Woven fabric and clothing." elastomeric fibre " is continuous filament yarn (multifibres of optional gathering) or multiple long filament, and not containing diluent, it has and any curling irrelevant elongation at break more than 100%.Elastomeric fibre is stretched to its two double-length in (1); (2) keep one minute; And (3) during release, in d/d one minute, be contracted to 1.5 times that are less than its original length.As in this description text use, " elastomeric fibre " refers at least one elastomeric fibre or long filament.Described elastomeric fibre includes but not limited to rubber filament, two composition long filament and flexible polyether ester (elastoester), lastol and Spandex.
" Spandex " long filament for manufacturing, wherein long filament formed material by least 85 % by weight the long chain synthetic polymer that forms of block polyurethane.
" flexible polyether ester " long filament for manufacturing, the wherein long chain synthetic polymer that is made up of the aliphatic polyether of at least 50 % by weight and the polyester of at least 35 % by weight of fiberforming substance.
" two composition long filament " continuous filament yarn or comprise at least two kinds of polymer be adhering to each other along the length of long filament, often kind of polymer belongs to different general classes, such as, elastomeric polyethers acid amides core and there is the polyamide sheath of leaf lobe or the wing.
" Lastol " is the fiber of crosslinked synthetic polymer, but has low significant degree of crystallinity, and the ethene by least 95 % by weight and other olefin unit of at least one form.This kind of fiber has elasticity and substantially heat-resisting.
" polyester bicomponent filaments " refers to the continuous filament yarn of length a pair polyester of tight adhesion each other comprised along fiber, to make fibre transections face be eccentric skin-core such as arranged side by side or other suitable cross section, can be produced useful curling by it.With the fabric of this kind of long filament as Elasterell-p, PTT/PET bicomponent fiber is made, there is excellent recovery feature.
" inelastic body elastomer " refers to the elongate filaments not containing elastomeric fibre.But the extensibility recovered of described yarn must higher than 20%, as by ASTMD6720 method tested, as veining PPT elongate filaments, veining PET elongate filaments, bi-component elongate filaments fiber, or PBT elongate filaments.
" elastomeric yarn coated in advance " was before core spinning process, by hard yarn around, with hard yarn twisted or a kind of yarn with hard yarn interlacing.The elastomeric yarn coated in advance comprising elastomeric fibre and hard yarn is also called " yarn coated in advance " in this description text.Hard yarn is coated not to be worn during textile technology for the protection of elastomeric fibre.Described wearing and tearing can cause the fracture of elastomeric fibre, and process disruption in succession and undesirable fabric inhomogeneities.In addition, be coated with the elastic behavior helping stabilized elastomer fiber, to make compared with exposed elastomeric fibre, more uniformly can control the elongation of elastomeric yarn coated in advance during textile technology.Yarn coated in advance also can increase the stretch modulus of yarn and fabric, and this contributes to improving fabric recovery capability and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY.
Coating cotton thread comprises in advance: (a) is with the elastomeric fibre of hard yarn list looping; B elastomeric fibre that () twines with hard yarn double-contracting; C () is with staple fibre coated (that is, core spinning (corespun or core-spinning)) elastomeric fibre, subsequently twisted in winding process continuously; D () is entangled by elastomer and hard yarn interlacing with gaseous blast; And (e) by elastomeric fibre together with hard yarn twisted.
" double elastic complex yarn " is comprise by the coated complex yarn with two groups of elastic core fibers of single thread of hard staple sheath.Term " double elastic yarn " is used interchangeably in this manual.
The drawing of fiber of some embodiments is included in the double elastic cladded yarn in broadwise.In some embodiments, the fabric, particularly high stuetch fabrics with unexpected high recovery characteristics is obtained.This is by using the cladded yarn containing two kinds of different elastomers with different stretch characteristic to reach.Person of skill in the art will appreciate that, when expecting that broadwise stretches, fabric can comprise the described cladded yarn with double elastic fiber in broadwise.
As shown in Figure 1, double elastic yarn 8 according to the present invention must comprise two kinds of elastic filament core: flexible core I (in 4, Fig. 1) and flexible core II (in 6, Fig. 1).Flexible core long filament preferably along its whole length by comprise weaving staple fibre fiber sheath 2 around.
Fig. 2 illustrates an embodiment of representational core spinning equipment 40.Two independent fiber draw unit 46 and 64 are installed on machine.In core spinning processing procedure, flexible core long filament I48 and flexible core long filament II60 is placed on delivery roll 46 and 64 respectively, and combines to form composite core-spun yarn with hard yarn.From core elastic filament unwinding by the action of the feed roller 46 and 64 of forward drive on the direction of arrow 50 and 62 of pipe 48 and pipe 60.Feed roller 46 and 64 is used as the support of pipe 48 and pipe 60, and with the elastomer of predetermined speed transmission yarn 52 and 66.
Hard fibre or yarn 44 from unwinding on pipe 54 to converge at preliminary roller group 42 and flexible core long filament 52 and 66.Combination flexible core long filament 52,66 with hard fibre 44 together with spinning apparatus 56 place cored.
Flexible core long filament I52 and flexible core long filament II66 was stretched (drawing-off) before it enters preliminary roller 42.By the speed difference tensile elasticity long filament between feed roller 46 or 64 and preliminary roller 42.The transmission speed of preliminary roller 42 is greater than the speed of feed roller 46 and 64.Regulate the speed of feed roller 46 and 64, to obtain required drawing-off or draw ratio.
Draw ratio is generally 1.01X doubly to 5.0X times (1.01X to 5.0X) compared with non-stretching fiber.Too low draw ratio will cause having the low quality yarn and non-elastic filament placed in the middle baring to expose.Too high draw ratio will cause breakage and the core space of elastic filament.
Fig. 3 illustrates another embodiment of representational core spinning equipment 40.Flexible core I is exposed elastic filament 48, and flexible core II12 is elastomeric yarn coated in advance.From the flexible core II unwinding by the action of the feed roller 64 of forward drive in the direction of the arrow 62 of pipe 12.Weight roller 66 contacts, so that with the flexible core II of predetermined speed transmission yarn 68 for maintain between flexible core II with feed roller 64 stable.Other element of Fig. 3 as shown in Figure 2.
Fig. 4 illustrates another embodiment of representational core spinning equipment 40.Flexible core I is exposed elastic filament 48, and flexible core II12 is elastomeric yarn coated in advance.Flexible core II from pipe 12 takes off from end, then through tenslator and guide post.Puller system is used for remaining on predetermined level by stable for yarn pulling force.The draw ratio of exposed elastomer is generally 1.01X doubly to 5.0X times (1.01X to 5.0X) compared with non-stretching fiber.Other element of Fig. 4 as shown in Figure 2.
According to a certain embodiment of described method, be coated togather two kinds of elastomers and hard fibre with different qualities formation complex yarn, and wherein two kinds of elastomers are stretched to the different drawing-offs of its original length in the coated process of yarn.The drawing-off of two kinds of elastomers can be selected between drawing-off 1.01X is doubly to 5.0X times.For having two kinds of core elastomers of different fiber number or different number of filaments, the draw ratio of flexible core I and flexible core II can be different from each other, and this depends on elastomer performance and fabric quality needs.Under many circumstances, must comparatively mainly with providing high tensile property by a core drawing-off, and another core is stretched lessly think that fabric provides low-shrinkage and high recovery capability.
In fabrics in general, if do not use HEAT SETTING to carry out " sizing " Spandex, so fabric can have high shrinkage, too much fabric weight, and excess elongation rate, and this can cause the negative experience of consumer.Excess shrinkage during textile finishing processes can cause folding line on the surface of the fabric in process and domestic wash process.The folding line produced by this way will be difficult to be removed by flatiron usually.
By using low drawing-off in an elastic core fibers, the high-temperature hot fixating shape step in technique can be avoided.This new technology can reduce the pyrolytic damage to special fiber (that is, cotton), and therefore can improve the feel of finished textile product.The fabric of some embodiments can be prepared when not having heat setting step, and comprising fabric will be made into the situation of clothing.As another advantage, therefore thermal sensitivity hard yarn for the manufacture of elasticity blouse fabric in new technology, can increase possibility that is different and improvement product.In addition, shorter technique has productivity ratio benefit to fabric producers.
Be surprised to find that, the cladded yarn with two kinds of different elastic core fibers has higher extensibility and recovery capability than the cladded yarn be made up of single core elastic filament with identical fiber number.Such as, there is 30d/3 long filament Spandex and add that the cladded yarn of two kinds of cores of 40D/4 long filament Spandex has larger recovery capability than the cored be made up of the single-core line of 70D/5 filament yarn under identical drawing-off.Therefore, our cladded yarn by using the Spandex manufacture of same amount to have higher extensibility and Geng Gao recovery capability.
Two kinds of elastomers with different qualities can use and be coated togather with hard fibre skin, and to form complex yarn, wherein two kinds of elastomers can have different polymer compositions, and have different stress-strain behaviors.An example in a cladded yarn, uses two kinds of Spandex fibers with different HEAT SETTING efficiency together, as standard
spandex fiber T162C and easily sizing
fiber T562B.Fabric can higher than easy sizing
fiber heat setting temperature is still substandard
hEAT SETTING at the temperature of fiber heat setting temperature.Therefore, fabric is only by part HEAT SETTING, and this provides acceptable web contraction, provides good extensibility and growth rate simultaneously.
Another example is containing having the flexible core I of high-tensile strength modulus and having the cored of flexible core II of low-tension modulus.Flexible core I provides high recovery capability and low fabric growth rate for fabric, and the flexible core II with low modulus provides easy stretching, comparatively low-shrinkage for fabric, thus obtains having the fabric of easy stretching, high confining force and high-dimensional stability.Have different chemical composition elastomer also can with a kind of cladded yarn, as polyolefin elastic fiber Lastol and Spandex are combined.Spandex fiber provides high recovery capability, and Lastol fiber gives good heat resistance and lower shrinkage.
The combination of flexible core I and flexible core II can be elasticity naked fiber and adds elasticity naked fiber; Or elasticity naked fiber adds elastomeric yarn coated in advance, or elastomeric yarn coated in advance adds elastomeric yarn coated in advance.Exposed elastomer can be about 11 dtexs to about 444 dtexs (fiber number-Yue 10D to 400D), comprises 11 dtexs to about 180 dtexs (fiber number 10D to about 162D).
Elastomeric yarn coated in advance comprises polytype, as with hard yarn list looping elastomeric fibre; Elastomeric fibre is twined with hard yarn double-contracting; With staple fibre coated (that is, core spinning) elastomeric fibre continuously, twisted in winding process subsequently; With gaseous blast, elastomer and hard yarn interlacing is entangled; And by elastomeric fibre together with hard yarn twisted.Preferred elastomeric yarn coated is in advance have the coated yarn of the Spandex gaseous blast of veining polyester and Tynex, as having 40D or the 70D Spandex of 50D to 150D polyester air-coating yarn.Elastomeric yarn coated was in advance made before cladded yarn process in independent machine.
Elastomeric yarn coated in advance can any needs amount exist, such as based on total double elastic yarn weight meter from about 5 % by weight to about 35 % by weight.The scope of the linear density of coating cotton thread is from about 15 denier (16.5 dtex) to about 900 denier (990 dtex) in advance, comprises from about 30 denier to 300 denier (33 dtex to 330 dtex).Denier count as received between yarn coated in advance and total double elastic yarn than lower than 35% time, fabric does not have a large amount of baring to expose.After arrangement process, the two kinds of elastic core fibers be included in yarn coated be in advance cannot see impalpable.
The fiber number of exposed elastomer (before being coated with formation yarn coated in advance) can be about 11 dtexs to about 444 dtexs (fiber number-Yue 10D to about 400D), comprises 11 dtexs to about 180 dtexs (fiber number 10D to about 162D).In coated processing procedure in advance, drawing-off elastomer between its original length of 1.1X to 6X.When coated in advance, elastomer is coated in advance with one or more hard yarn, and wherein hard yarn fiber number is from 10 denier to 600 denier.
Another combination of elastic core fibers I and elastic core fibers II can be one group of elasticity uncovered fibres and adds another group inelastic body elastomer.Inelastic body elastomer can be veining PET elongate filaments, veining PPT elongate filaments, bicomponent fiber or PBT drawing of fiber.Find surprisingly, when use have higher than 20% the extensibility recovered inelastic body elastomer as elastic core fibers for the moment, the performance of composite yarn and fabric obviously changes.Fabric has high extensibility and high recovery capability.The scope of the linear density of inelastic body elastomer can be from about 15 denier (16.5 dtex) to about 450 denier (495 dtex), comprises from about 30 denier to 150 denier (33 dtex to 165 dtex).When fiber number is too high, fabric can have a large amount of baring to expose.
In double elastic cladded yarn elastomeric fibre content based on the weighing scale of yarn about 0.1% to about between 20%, comprise from about 0.5% to about 15%, and about 5% to about 10%.Elastomeric fibre content in fabric can be about 0.01 % by weight to about 10 % by weight based on total fabric weight, comprises from about 0.5 % by weight to about 5 % by weight.
Short hide fiber (staplesheathfiber) in double elastic yarn can be natural fabric, as cotton, wool or flax.They also can be short artificial or synthetic fiber, gathering (ethylene glycol terephthalate) and gathering (propylene glycol ester terephthalate) fiber, capron(e), poly-(hexamethylene adipamide) fiber, acrylic fiber, modacrylic, acetate fiber, rayon fiber, nylon and combination thereof for one-component.
Described double elastic yarn can be used for manufacturing the stuetch fabrics it can being applied various weaving-pattern, comprises plain weave, poplin cloth, twill, Oxford are spun, small jacquard, sateen, satin weave and combination thereof.The fabric of some embodiments can at warp-wise or/and broadwise has the percentage elongation from about 10% to about 45%.Fabric can have the shrinkage factor of about 15% or less after washing.Stretch woven fabrics can have excellent cotton feel.Clothing can be made up of fabric as herein described.
Warp yarn can be identical or different with weft yarn.Fabric can only broadwise stretch, or it can biaxial tension, and wherein useful stretching and recovery characteristics show in warp-wise and broadwise both direction.
Air-jet loom, Rapier looms, gripper shuttle loom, water jet looms and fly-shuttle loom can be used.Dyeing and arrange process production gratifying fabric in extremely important.Fabric can arrange in successive range technique and piece dyeing spray technology (piecedyejetprocess).The conventional equipment existed in continuous dressing floor and piece dyeing factory enough processes usually.The arrangement procedural order of standard comprises preparation, dyeing and arranges.In preparation and dyeing course, comprise singe, destarch, kiering, bleaching, mercerization finish and dyeing the standard treatment methods for elastic woven thing normally gratifying.
Analytical method:
yarn can recover extensibility
The extensibility recovered of the elastomer used in an embodiment is measured as follows.Utilize skein reeling machine, with the tension force of about 0.1 gram/denier (0.09dN/tex), each yarn samples is formed as the reeled yarn of the total denier (5550 dtex) in 5000+/-5.Reeled yarn is made to nurse one's health at least 16 hours under 70 °F (+/-2 °F) (21 DEG C of +/-1 DEG C .) and 65% (+/-2%) relative humidity.Reeled yarn is vertically suspended on support substantially, by 6mg/den (5.4mg/dtex) weight (such as, be 30 grams for 5550 dtex reeled yarns) be suspended on the bottom of reeled yarn, the reeled yarn increased the weight of is allowed to reach equilibrium length, and measure the length of reeled yarn, be accurate to 1mm and be recorded as " C
b".In order to carry out durability test, 5.4mg/dtex weight is stayed on reeled yarn.Next, by 1030 grammes per square metre thing (206mg/d; 185.4mg/dtex) be suspended on bottom reeled yarn, and measure the length of reeled yarn, be accurate to 1mm and be recorded as " L
b".
Remove 1030g weight, and then reeled yarn is immersed in boiling water, in the water of 100 DEG C 10 minutes, from water, take out reeled yarn afterwards and as above nurse one's health 16 hours.This step is designed to simulate commercial fabric relaxation, and this is a kind of mode producing fabric tension.As above measure the length of reeled yarn, and be " C by its length records
a".1030 grammes per square metre things are suspended on reeled yarn again, and as above measure skein length and be recorded as " L
a".According to formula CC
a=100x (L
a-C
a)/L
athe yarn calculated after relaxing can recover extensibility (percentage) " CC
a".According to formula Cs (%)=100X (L
b-L
a)/L
bcalculate yarn shrinkage.
woven fabric percentage elongation (extensibility)
One or more fabric tension direction is assessed the percentage elongation % of fabric under specific load (that is, power), and described fabric extension direction is the direction (that is, broadwise, warp-wise, or broadwise and warp-wise) of complex yarn.Three samples being of a size of 60cmx6.5cm are cut from fabric.Long size (60cm) is corresponding to draw direction.Sample part is broken, so that Sample Width is decreased to 5.0cm.Then sample is made to nurse one's health at least 16 hours under the relative humidity of 20 DEG C of +/-2 DEG C with 65%+/-2%.
In distance, the first benchmark is prepared across the width of each sample by swatched end 6.5cm place.In distance, the second benchmark is prepared across Sample Width by the first benchmark 50.0cm place.From the second benchmark to the excess fabric of the other end of sample for the formation of with make ring, metallic pin can insert in described ring.Then recess is cut and be divided into ring, to make weight to be attached to metallic pin.
Clamping sample acyclic end, and vertical drapery sample.17.8 newton (N) weight (4LB) is attached to metallic pin through the fabric loop hung, is stretched by weight to make fabric sample.By allow sample by weight stretch three seconds come " exercises " sample, then pass through lifting heavy manual releasing power.This circulation carries out three times.Then weight free suspension is allowed, thus stuetch fabrics sample.When fabric under a load time, measure the distance (in millimeter) between two benchmark, and this distance is designated as ML.Initial range (that is, non-stretching distance) between benchmark is designated as GL.The fabric extension rate % of each independent sample calculates as follows:
Percentage elongation % (E%)=((ML-GL)/GL) x100
Get the mean value of three percentage elongation results as final result.
woven fabric growth rate (not recovering extensibility)
After the stretch, the original length not having the fabric grown accurately to return to before its stretching.But stuetch fabrics usually by incomplete recovery, and will be elongated a little after prolongation stretches.This slightly increasing in length is called " growth ".
Above-mentioned fabrics test of elongation rate must complete before growth rate test.The only draw direction of test fabric.For biaxial tension fabric, both direction is tested.Cut from fabric is three samples of 55.0cmx6.0cm separately.These are different from the sample used in test of elongation rate.The direction of 55.0cm should correspond to draw direction.Sample part is broken, so that Sample Width is decreased to 5.0cm.Sample is nursed one's health under the temperature and humidity in such as above test of elongation rate.Width across sample draws two benchmark of 50cm of being accurately separated by.
The known percentage elongation % (E%) from test of elongation rate is used to calculate the sample length under this known percentage elongation of 80%.Be calculated as:
E (length) under 80%=(E%/100) x0.80xL,
Wherein L is the original length (that is, 50.0cm) between benchmark.The two ends of sample are clamped, and drawn samples is until length between benchmark equals the E (length) that L+ as above calculates.Described stretching maintenance 30 minutes, discharges tensile force after the time, and allows sample free suspension and relax.After 60 minutes, following measurement growth rate %:
Growth rate %=(L2x100)/L,
Wherein L2 is the length increase between lax rear sample benchmark, and L is the original length between benchmark.Measure the described growth rate % of each sample, and the mean value getting result is determined to grow number.
woven fabric shrinkage factor
Measure fabric shrinkage after wash.The first conditioning is carried out by under the temperature and humidity of fabric in such as percentage elongation and growth rate test.Then from fabric, cut two samples (60cmx60cm).Away from selvedge at least 15cm place collected specimens.Fabric sample marks the frame on four limits of 40cmx40cm.
Washing sample in the washing machine with sample and fabrics.Total washing machine load is the air oxygen detrition material of 2kg, and the washing being no more than half is by testing sample composition.Washing clothes 40 DEG C water temperature and rotate under softly wash.Use the cleaning agent amount of 1g/l to 3g/l, this depends on hardness of water.Sample is placed on a flat surface until dry, then sample is nursed one's health 16 hours under the relative humidity of 20 DEG C of +/-2 DEG C with 65%+/-2%rh.
Then on warp-wise and broadwise, fabric sample shrinkage factor is measured by the distance between measurement markers.Shrinkage factor C% after following calculating washing:
C%=((L1-L2)/L1)x100,
Wherein L1 is the initial range (40cm) between mark, and L2 is the distance after drying.The mean value of sample thief, and report broadwise and warp-wise.Negative shrinkage factor numeral reflects expansion, and in some cases due to hard yarn behavior, this is possible.
fabric weight
The mould of Woven fabric sample 10cm size is carried out mould punching.By each Woven fabric samples weighing cut out, in gram.Then " fabric weight " to be calculated as gram/m.
Embodiment:
The invention of following examples proved and its ability for the manufacture of various fabric.The present invention can have other and different embodiments, and its some details can without departing from the scope and spirit of the present invention various obvious in modify.Therefore, embodiment should be regarded as being illustrative and not restrictive in itself.
For each in following denim fabric embodiment, use 100% cotton openend staple fibre yarn or ring spinning as warp thread.For denim fabric, it comprises two kinds yarns (countyarn): 7.0NeOE yarn and the 8.5NeOE yarn with irregular arrangement pattern.Before warping, by yarn with the form indigo dyeing of rope.Then, its size is set and carries out weaving warping.For bottom heaviness fabric, warp thread is 20Ne100% cotton ring ingot staple fibre yarn.Its size is set and carries out weaving warping.
Four embodiments of the cladded yarn with a kind of traditional elastic core long filament and the innovation yarn containing two groups of flexible core listed by table 1.
Use some cladded yarns with double elastic core fibre as weft yarn.Use various elastic core fibers at in-core, comprise exposed Spandex, polyester coated in advance/
spandex fiber or nylon/spandex yarn coated in advance.Table 2 lists material for the manufacture of the cladded yarn of each embodiment and processing mode.Table 3 illustrates detailed fabric construction and the performance summary of often kind of fabric.
spandex can purchased from Invista, s. á .r.L., Wichita, KS.Such as, be that in the row of Spandex, 40D refers to 40 denier at title; 3.5X refers to and to be applied by core spinning frame
drawing-off (machine draft).Be in the row of " rigidity skin yarn " at title, 20 ' s is the linear density of the staple fibre yarn measured by English cotton count system (EnglishCottonCountSystem).All the other in table 1 and table 2 everything is clear mark.
The cladded yarn of each embodiment in table 2 is used to manufacture stretch woven fabrics subsequently.Table 3 outlines the yarn, the weaving-pattern that use in fabric, and the qualitative character of fabric.To provide in embodiment some additional annotations of each below.Unless otherwise mentioned, fabric is weaved on denier gaseous blast or Rapier looms.Loom speed is 500 picks per.Fabric is respectively about 76 inches and about 72 inches at the width of loom and greige state.Loom has duplex weave warping ability.
Each greige goods fabric in embodiment is arranged by vibrating type dyeing machine (jiggledyemachine).Each Woven fabric at 49 DEG C with 3.0 % by weight
64 (SybronInc.) kiering in advance 10 minutes.Then, at 71 DEG C with 6.0 % by weight
(DooleyChemicals.LLCInc.) and 2.0 % by weight
lFH (E.I.DuPontCo.) destarch 30 minutes, and then at 82 DEG C with 3.0 % by weight
64,0.5 % by weight
lFH and 0.5 % by weight tertiary sodium phosphate kiering 30 minutes.After textile finishing, at 160 DEG C in stenter dry 1 minute.
Example yarn A: the typical cladded yarn with a kind of elastic core fibers.
This is not innovation yarn.Described cladded yarn is have a kind of 40d covered by cotton suitcase
the 16Ne of Spandex fiber.In coated processing procedure,
the drawing-off of fiber is 3.5X.Cotton twist level TM is per inch 18 number of share of stock.Described yarn has 17.71% after boiling can recover extensibility.
Example yarn B: the cladded yarn with two kinds of core elastomers
Cladded yarn is have two groups that are covered by cotton suitcase
the 16Ne of Spandex fiber.Flexible core I fiber is 20DT162B, and flexible core II fiber is also 20DT162B.The total fiber number of elastomer is 40 denier.In coated processing procedure,
the drawing-off of fiber is 3.5X.Cotton twist level TM is per inch 18 number of share of stock.Therefore, described cladded yarn has the structure identical with example yarn A, comprise yam count,
fibre number and yarn twist level, except having one end of 2 core assembly elastic filaments instead of cladded yarn.The extensibility recovered of this kind of yarn is 20.63%, 2.92 unit percentages higher than the yarn in sample A.This means that the yarn with two groups of core filament has the higher extensibility recovered than the yarn with one group of core filament under the content of identical Spandex.Like this, innovate yarn and provide high extensibility and high recovery capability by using the elastomer of identical amount for fabric.
Example yarn C: the typical cladded yarn with a kind of elastic core fibers.
This is not innovation yarn.Cladded yarn is have a kind of 70d covered by cotton suitcase
the 16Ne of Spandex fiber.In coated processing procedure,
the drawing-off of fiber is 3.8X.Cotton twist level TM is per inch 18 number of share of stock.Have 38.71% after described yarn boils and can recover extensibility, and yarn has 2.28 shrinkage factors.
Example yarn D: the cladded yarn with two kinds of core elastomers
Cladded yarn is have two groups that are covered by cotton suitcase
the 16Ne of Spandex fiber.Flexible core I fiber is 30DT162B, and flexible core II fiber is 40DT162B.The total fiber number of elastomer is 70 denier.In coated processing procedure, two kinds
the drawing-off of fiber is 3.8X.Cotton twist level TM is per inch 18 number of share of stock.Therefore, described cladded yarn has the structure identical with example yarn C, except having 2 core assembly elastic filaments instead of one group of cladded yarn.The extensibility recovered of this kind of yarn is 40.88%, 2.17 unit percentages higher than yarn samples C.This means that the yarn with two groups of core filament has the higher extensibility recovered than the yarn with one group of core filament under the content of identical Spandex.Like this, innovate yarn and provide high extensibility and high recovery capability by using the elastomer of identical amount for fabric.
Embodiment 1: typical stretching weaves bottom heaviness fabric
This is not according to comparing embodiment of the present invention.Warp thread is the ring ingot staple fibre yarn of 40/2Ne number.Weft yarn is for having 40D
the 20Ne of cladded yarn is cotton.
drawing-off is 3.5X.Described weft yarn is weave typical stretching the Typical tensile yarn used in khaki fabric.Loom speed is 500 weft yarns per minute under weft yarn horizontal per inch 56 weft yarn.Table 3 outlines test result.Test result illustrates, after arrangement, described fabric has weight (8.95g/m
2), extensibility (37.6%), width (50.5 inches), broadwise wash shrinkage rate (0.91%), and fabric growth rate (8.7%).Data show that the combination of drawing and fabric construction causes high fabric growth rate.
Embodiment 2: the stuetch fabrics with double elastic fiber
Described sample has the fabric construction identical with embodiment 1.Unique difference is to use the 20s weft yarn containing dual core elastomer: the 40D with 3.5X drawing-off
fiber and the 40d with 1.8X drawing-off
fiber.Warp thread is 40/2Ne ring ingot cotton yarn.Loom speed is 500 picks per under per inch 56 weft yarn.Table 3 outlines test result.Clearly show that this sample has similar extensibility but lower fabric level of growth (6.4%).Therefore, by using two of the elastic core fibers in identical yarn different drawing-offs, coated yarn and fabric can obtain different features.Such as, the high drawing-off in flexible core I fiber obtains the fabric with high extensibility, and the lower drawing-off in flexible core II fiber obtains having low growth rate, the high fabric recovering still not increase fabric shrinkage.Like this, the fabric with high extensibility, high restorative and low-shrinkage can be produced.
Embodiment 3: the stuetch fabrics containing double elastic fiber
Described sample has the fabric construction identical with embodiment 1.Unique difference is to use cladded yarn in weft yarn: the 40DT162B with 3.5X drawing-off
fiber is easily shaped with the 40d with 3.5X drawing-off
fiber.Warp thread is 20Ne100% cotton ring ingot staple fibre yarn.Apply 3/1 twill weave pattern.The fabric arranged has weight (9.19g/m
2), in broadwise the extensibility of 38.4.0% and the growth rate of 7.9%.Be clearly shown that, the easy sizing in flexible core II
fiber maintains fabric tension level, fabric growth rate is decreased to 7.9% from 8.7% embodiment 1 simultaneously.
Easy sizing
fiber can at about 170 DEG C HEAT SETTING, described temperature compares T162B
the heat setting temperature of fiber is low about 20 DEG C.Therefore, when the temperature HEAT SETTING of fabric between 170 DEG C and 190 DEG C, fabric portions is by HEAT SETTING.Only easily shape
fiber is finalized, and T162B is not finalized.Like this, fabric keeps better extensibility and restorative, and shrinkage factor remains under certain level simultaneously.
Embodiment 4: the stuetch fabrics with Spandex and elastic polyolefin fibers
Warp thread is 7.0Ne number and 8.4Ne number mixing openend yarn.Before warping, by warp thread indigo dyeing.Weft yarn is for having 40DT162B
the 16Ne cladded yarn of Spandex and 40D elastic polyolefin fibers.
fiber and elastic polyester fibre drawing-off 3.5X in coated processing procedure.Fabric property listed by table 3.Good cotton feel, good extensibility (47.8%) and good restorative (6.5% growth rate) is gone out by the thread fabric exhibits of described yarn.All test results show that the combination of Spandex and elastic polyolefin long filament can produce good fabric tension rate and growth rate.Fabric is not bared and to expose.All elastic filament can not be seen from fabric face and envers.
Compared with Spandex, elastic polyolefin fibers or Lastol fiber have lower recovery capability, but better heat resistance, better chemical-resistant, low fabric shrinkage and good cotton touch feeling.Fabric containing Spandex and elastic polyolefin can provide good extensibility and good restorative, has better heat resistance, low-shrinkage and better chemical-resistant, as the chlorine resistance in swimming pool and in denim goods bleaching.
Embodiment 5: the stuetch fabrics containing Spandex and elastomeric yarn coated in advance
Described sample has the fabric construction identical with embodiment 1.Difference is the cladded yarn in broadwise, and described cladded yarn contains a kind of exposed 40D in the core of yarn
fiber and a kind of elastomeric yarn (40D/34fNylon/40D coated in advance
air-coating yarn).Exposed 40D
the drawing-off of fiber is 1.8X, and in elastomeric yarn coated in advance
the drawing-off of fiber is 3.2X.This kind of fabric uses warp thread in the same manner as in Example 1 and structure.In addition, that weaves with arrangement process with embodiment 1 is identical.Table 3 outlines test result.We can find out, described sample has good extensibility (35.9%), good broadwise wash shrinkage rate (0.65%) and good fabric growth rate (5.3%).Appearance of fabrics and feel are very excellent.Adding elastomeric yarn (40D/34fNylon/40D coated in advance
fiber AJYyarn yarn) after, fabric growth rate significantly reduces.
Embodiment 6: the stuetch fabrics containing Spandex and elastomeric yarn coated in advance
Described sample has the fabric construction identical with embodiment 5.Unique difference is that the 40D in coated processing procedure is exposed
the drawing-off of fiber.Exposed
drawing of fiber is 3.5X, and in embodiment 5, be 1.8X.Fabric weight is 8.96OZ/yd
2, and weft direction stretch rate is 37.8%.Fabric has low-down growth rate (5.9%) in broadwise.Described sample also confirms that adding extra elastic composite yarns can produce the high-performance stuetch fabrics with low growth rate.Double elastic yarn makes fabric growth rate from 8.7% to 5.9% embodiment 1.Compared with embodiment 5, drawing-off increase also causes higher weight and extensibility.
Embodiment 7: the stretching denim goods containing Spandex and elastomeric yarn coated in advance
This embodiment has the warp thread identical with embodiment 4 and identical fabric construction.Warp thread is 7.0Ne number and 8.4Ne number mixing openend yarn.Before warping, by warp thread indigo dyeing.Weft yarn is for having 40D
spandex and 50D/24f polyester 40D
the 16Ne cladded yarn of fiber gaseous blast coating cotton thread.
drawing-off is 3.5X and 1.8X in exposed core and composite core.Described sample is innovation fabric.Loom speed is 500 weft yarns per minute under weft yarn level every foot of 44 weft yarns.Table 3 outlines test result.Test result illustrates after washing, and this kind of fabric has weight (12.80OZ/Y
2), 35.3% broadwise extensibility in broadwise and 3.5% growth rate.
Embodiment 8: the stretching denim goods containing Spandex and elastomeric yarn coated in advance
This embodiment has the warp thread identical with embodiment 7 and identical fabric construction, except in elastomeric yarn coated in advance
drawing of fiber (the 2.6X drawing-off in embodiment 8 is relative to the 1.8X drawing-off in embodiment 7).Table 3 outlines test result.Be clearly compared with sample 7, described sample has good extensibility (broadwise 40.4%).
Embodiment 9: the stuetch fabrics with Spandex and PBT drawing of fiber
This embodiment has the warp thread identical with 8 with embodiment 7 and identical fabric construction, except using 50D/26fPBT drawing of fiber as except flexible core II fiber.Described exposed 50D/26fPBT fiber has the extensibility recovered of 40.23% and the shrinkage factor of 3.44% that test out by ASTMD6720 method.Flexible core I
fiber is drawing-off 3.5X in coated processing procedure.Fabric property listed by table 3.
Good cotton feel, good extensibility (40.7%) and good restorative (6.0% growth rate) is gone out by the thread fabric exhibits of described yarn.All test results show that the combination of Spandex and inelastic body elongate filaments can produce good fabric tension rate and growth rate.Fabric is not bared and to expose; All elastic filament can not be seen from fabric face and envers.