JP2019535916A - Stretch knitted fabric containing elastomer fiber and polyester bicomponent filament, garment made therefrom and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided are elastic circular knitted fabrics (40, 82, 94) containing two sets of different elastic fibers (12, 18) and optionally hard yarns (14), and methods for their production. [Selection diagram] FIG.

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to the production of stretch circular knit fabrics containing two sets of different elastic fibers having improved sheer prevention, high retention and recovery. The elastic circular knit fabric is made from elastomeric elastic fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments and optionally hard yarns.

  Elastomeric fibers are commonly used to provide stretch and elastic recovery for knitted fabrics and garments.

  Most available stretch circular knit fabrics on the market are made of a single type of elastic and hard fibers. Such fabrics are widely known as comfortable fabrics because they are more easily deformed and / or stretched during wearing. The comfort of garments made from these knitted fabrics results from the reorganization of their stitches and the stretching of elastic fibers. However, reorganization of knit stitches and recovery with a single elastic fiber is generally incomplete because the yarn does not provide sufficient resiliency to reorganize the stretched stitch. As a result, a single elastic knitted fabric may experience permanent deformation or “bagging” in certain garment areas such as shirt sleeve elbows where more stretch occurs. Thus, consumers see bagging or sagging after prolonged wear. Due to the loop structure, the circular knitted fabric exhibits a low holding force as well as a high deformation force compared to the woven fabric, which limits the penetration of the circular knitting at the bottom weight.

  In order to improve circular knitted fabric recovery performance, it is now common to co-knit large quantities of spandex fibers with attached hard yarns. Higher spandex content provides fabrics with higher stretch levels and better resiliency. However, high spandex content causes other quality problems such as high fabric shrinkage, edge curl, and rubber feel. It is difficult to obtain a fabric having easy stretchability, high recovery rate, low shrinkage, and good stability.

  Another potential problem is the see-through problem in knitted fabrics, especially bottoms such as yoga pants. Such fabrics become too sheared so that they are transparent when the wearer leans forward or stretches, thus exposing the wearer's undergarments and / or body parts. This problem may be difficult to detect when the wearer is standing alone. This problem does not become apparent until the wearer is in a yoga position or stretches before exercise.

  Polyester bicomponent filaments are elastic filaments based on polyester fibers that have moderate elasticity, excellent recovery, and other desirable fiber properties. It is widely used in textiles. However, when used in knitted fabrics, it tends to exhibit a serious, random, uneven surface that makes the fabric look and feel undesirably.

  Therefore, there is a need to produce a stretch knitted fabric with easy stretchability, easy processability, low shrinkage, ease of garment manufacture, excellent resilience, good hand and appearance, and excellent warmth .

  Aspects of the invention relate to a method for making a stretch circular knit fabric containing elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments.

  In one non-limiting embodiment of the method of the present invention, two sets of different elastic fibers are knitted together to form a single layer circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex includes a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, the knitted fabric includes 100% elastic yarn and there are no hard fibers inside the knitted fabric.

  In another non-limiting embodiment of the method of the present invention, the fabric further comprises hard fibers. In this non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fiber may be an elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10-900 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

  In another non-limiting embodiment of the present invention, two sets of elastic and hard fibers having different properties are knitted together to form a double layer circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fibers have a yarn count of 10-900 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

  In yet another non-limiting embodiment of the method of the present invention, two sets of elastic and hard fibers having different properties are knitted together to form a double layer spaced circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises an elastomeric bare yarn comprising spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, a polyester bicomponent filament is placed in the center of the spaced fabric as a cushion yarn.

  Another aspect of the invention relates to a stretch circular knit fabric comprising elastomer fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments. Various forms of circular knit fabric may be used, including but not limited to single jersey, float jersey, lip spacing fabric. Further processes of the dough may include, but are not limited to, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, drying, cleaning, sintering, desizing, mercerization, and any combination of such steps.

  In one non-limiting embodiment, the fabric is a single layer circular knit fabric formed by knitting two sets of different elastic fibers together. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex includes a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, the knitted fabric includes 100% elastic yarn and there are no hard fibers inside the knitted fabric.

  In another non-limiting embodiment, the stretch circular knit fabric further comprises hard fibers. In this non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fiber may be an elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10-900 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

  In another non-limiting embodiment of the present invention, the double layer circular knit fabric formed by knitting together is two sets of elastic and hard fibers having different properties. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fibers have a yarn count of 10-900 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

  In yet another non-limiting embodiment, the fabric is in the form of a double layer spaced circular knit fabric by knitting together two sets of elastic and hard fibers having different properties. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, a polyester bicomponent filament is placed in the center of the spaced fabric as a cushion yarn.

  Another aspect of the present invention relates to a garment made from the fabric of the present invention.

1 is a schematic illustration of a non-limiting embodiment of a fabric of the present invention showing a stitch of a spliced knit knit comprising elastomer fibers, polyester bicomponent filaments, and hard yarns. FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a portion of a circular knitting machine conveyed by a hard yarn conveying device, a polyester bicomponent filament conveying device, and a spandex yarn conveying device in the production of a non-limiting fabric embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a portion of a circular knitting machine conveyed by a polyester bicomponent filament conveyor and spandex yarn conveyor in the manufacture of different non-limiting fabric embodiments of the present invention. FIG. 4 is another schematic view of a portion of a circular knitting machine conveyed by a polyester bicomponent filament feeder and a spandex yarn conveyor in the manufacture of a non-limiting fabric embodiment of the present invention. In this embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament and spandex yarn are conveyed to a knit needle and combined together. 1 is a schematic illustration of a non-limiting embodiment of a fabric of the present invention showing a 1 × 1 rib knit stitch comprising elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments. FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a non-limiting embodiment of a double knitted fabric made in accordance with the present invention. It is the schematic of the separated fabric which has a polyester bicomponent filament in the center. 2 is a flow chart illustrating a non-limiting example of a finishing process step that can be used on a circular knitted fabric having two elastic yarns prepared in accordance with the present invention.

  Provided by the present disclosure is a stretch circular knit fabric containing two sets of different elastic fibers having improved see-through power, high retention and resilience, and methods for their manufacture .

  The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention comprises elastomer elastic fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments, and optionally hard yarns. The fabric of the present invention is manufactured by knitting together two sets of different elastic fibers and optionally hard yarns in various embodiments by various methods.

  The first set of fibers used in the fabric of the present invention includes elastomeric fibers.

  As used herein, an “elastomeric fiber” or “elastomeric elastic fiber” is either a continuous filament or a plurality of filaments, without diluent, having an elongation at break of greater than 100% regardless of any crimp. Means. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fibers comprise coalesced multifilaments. Elastomeric fibers are (1) stretched to twice their length, (2) held for 1 minute, and (3) when released, they are 1.x of their original length within 1 minute of release. Shrink to less than 5 times. As used herein, “elastomeric fiber” or “elastomeric elastic fiber” means at least one elastomeric fiber or filament. Examples of elastomer fibers useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, rubber filaments, bicomponent filaments and elastomeric esters, lastol, and spandex.

  “Spandex” is an artificial filament whose filament-forming material is a long chain synthetic polymer consisting of at least 85% of the weight of the segmented polyurethane.

  “Elastoester” is an artificial filament in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain synthetic polymer consisting of at least 50% by weight aliphatic polyether and at least 35% by weight polyester.

  A “bicomponent filament” is a continuous filament comprising at least two polymers bonded together along the length of the filament, each polymer having a different general class, eg, an elastic polyetheramide core and lobes or wings A polyamide sheath having

  “Rustole” is a fiber of a cross-linked synthetic polymer having a low but significant degree of crystallinity consisting of at least 95% by weight of ethylene and at least one other olefin unit. This fiber is elastic and substantially heat resistant.

  In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastic fiber comprises an elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex includes a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex.

  Non-limiting examples of spandex useful in the present invention include Lycra® (registered trademark of Invista S. arl.) Types 162, 169, 275, and 562.

  In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fibers have a denier of 10 denier to 450 denier.

  The second set of fibers used in the fabric of the present invention comprises polyester bicomponent filaments.

  A “polyester bicomponent filament” is a continuous filament composed of two polymers of different chemical or physical properties, extruded from the same spinneret with both polymers in the same filament. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament is poly (ethylene terephthalate) having a poly (trimethylene terephthalate) (PTT) and a heat set crimp shrinkage value of about 10% to about 80%. At least one polymer selected from the group consisting of (PET), poly (trimethylene terephthalate), and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate), or a combination of such members. These yarns produce further crimps when exposed to hot and humid conditions.

  A non-limiting example of a polyester bicomponent filament useful in the present invention is LYCRA® T400® fiber. LYCRA® T400® fiber is available from Invista, S .; a. r. L. Is a commercially available polyester bicomponent filament made by

  It is a melt spun parallel multicomponent filament of PTT / PET prepared by a conjugated fiber spinning process. LYCRA® T400® fiber has (1) two components asymmetrically distributed in the fiber cross section and (2) shrinkage between PTT and PET when the fiber is heat treated Cause a crimp. The off-package crimp is about 1/3 of the total crimped onside fabric. The majority of the remaining crimps occur in a hot, moist environment such as the fabric dyeing and finishing process.

  In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

  One non-limiting embodiment, the bicomponent filament denier is from about 10 to about 450.

  In one non-limiting embodiment, the fabric includes 100% elastic yarn and there are no hard fibers inside the knitted fabric.

  The elastomer fiber content of the circular knitted fabric having two elastic yarns is about 3% or more based on the weight of the fabric, including about 8% to about 35% and about 10% to about 30%. The polyester bicomponent filament content in the fabric may be greater than about 5% by weight based on the total weight of the fabric, including from about 10% to about 60%.

  In another non-limiting embodiment of the present invention, the fabric further comprises hard yarn.

  As used herein, “hard yarn” means knitting yarns that do not contain large amounts of elastic stretch, such as, but not limited to, cotton, wool, cellulosic fibers, polyester filaments, and nylon filaments. Textured polyester and nylon filaments are preferred. These hard yarns offer the opportunity to add special functions to the fabric. For example, polyester and nylon filaments increase the toughness of cotton fabrics and increase their ability to resist wrinkling. Cotton and wool yarn increase the moisture content of the synthetic fabric. Special function yarns can also be introduced. For example, Coolmax® fibers that help absorb moisture from the body and quickly deliver it to the outside, or conductive fibers that conduct electricity, may be used. Fibers with antibiotics and microcapsules can also be used to provide body care, freshness, and easy care properties to the fabric. Fibers with high thermal performance, such as THERMOLITE (registered trademark) fibers that increase thermal resistance and thermal insulation, and THERMOLITE (registered trademark) IR fibers that generate heat under infrared rays, can also be used. Soft hand fibers such as micro-denier polyester and cotton-like Supplex® nylon fibers can be employed to improve the feel and appearance of the fabric.

  In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10-900 dtex.

  In one non-limiting embodiment of the invention, the hard yarn is incorporated into the fabric via a pre-coated elastic yarn or pre-coated yarn.

  As used herein, a “pre-coated elastic yarn” or “pre-coated yarn” is one that is surrounded, twisted, or mixed with a hard yarn prior to the core spinning process. . The hard yarn coating helps to protect the elastomeric fibers from abrasion during the textile process. Such wear can result in elastomer fiber breakage with consequent process interruption and undesirable fabric non-uniformity. Furthermore, the coating helps to stabilize the elastic behavior of the elastic fiber so that the elongation of the pre-coated elastic yarn can be controlled more uniformly during the textile process than is possible with elastic bare fibers. Pre-coated yarns can also increase the tensile modulus of the yarn and fabric, which helps to improve fabric resilience and dimensional stability.

  Non-limiting examples of pre-coated yarns include: (a) single winding of elastomer fiber with hard yarn, (b) double winding of elastomer fiber with hard yarn, (c) continuous elastomer fiber with staple fiber Coating (i.e., core span or core spinning) followed by twisting during winding, (d) mixing and intertwining the elastomer and hard yarn with an air jet, and (e) twisting the elastomer fiber and hard yarn. Is mentioned.

  The fabric of the present invention comprising two sets of elastic fibers, an elastomeric elastic fiber and a polyester bicomponent filament, and optionally a hard yarn can be produced by circular knitting.

  The term “circular knitting” as used herein means a form of weft knitting in which knitting needles are knitted on a circular knitted floor. In general, the cylinder rotates and interacts with the cam to reciprocate the needle for knitting. The yarn to be knitted is conveyed from the package to a carrier plate that directs the twisted yarn to the needle. The circular knitted fabric emerges from the knitting needle in a cylindrical shape through the center of the cylinder. Seamless knitting machines and flat knitting machines are also included in the present invention.

  Circular knitting, weft knitting, and Santoni seamless looms can all be used to make these circular knitted fabrics containing two sets of different elastic yarns with high stitch formation accuracy. If a Santoni seamless machine is used, two sets of different elastic yarn drafts and draft ratios can be used for different parts of the garment. The garment looks good on the body skeleton by using two elastic yarns with gradual compression. The Santoni seamless loom has the ability to produce panels shaped with two elastic yarns. Different fabric structures and garments can be produced with different diameters on a circular knitting machine. The shape of the tube is modified using a stitch structure including, but not limited to, tacks, floats and false ribs, stitch length, and structural imbalance.

  Various embodiments of the dough of the present invention may be manufactured.

  In one non-limiting embodiment, two sets of different elastic fibers are knitted together to form a single layer circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex includes a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, the knitted fabric includes 100% elastic yarn and there are no hard fibers inside the knitted fabric.

  In another non-limiting embodiment, the fabric further comprises hard fibers. In this non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fiber may be an elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10-900 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

  In another non-limiting embodiment of the present invention, two sets of elastic and hard fibers having different properties are knitted together to form a double layer circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fibers have a yarn count of 10-900 dtex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

  In yet another non-limiting embodiment of the method of the present invention, two sets of elastic and hard fibers having different properties are knitted together to form a double layer spaced circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, the set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and the second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarn. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises an elastomeric bare yarn comprising spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, a polyester bicomponent filament is placed in the center of the spaced fabric as a cushion yarn.

  Non-limiting dough embodiments of the present invention and methods for their manufacture are shown in FIGS.

  For example, FIG. 1 provides a schematic representation of a non-limiting embodiment of a circular knitted fabric having two sets of elastic yarns, the first set being elastomeric yarns 12 and the second set being polyester bicomponent. Filament 18. The elastic yarn is knitted with a hard yarn 14. In the jersey knit structure of a circular knitting machine, the process of co-knitting elastic fibers is called “split yarn knitting”. In splicing knitting, the hard yarn 14 and two sets of elastomeric yarns 12 and 18 are knitted side by side in parallel with the elastic yarn always kept on one side of the hard yarn and thus on one side of the knitted fabric. . FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a spliced knit knit stitch 10, wherein the knitted yarn includes an elastomeric yarn 12, a polyester bicomponent filament 18, and a hard yarn 14.

  FIG. 2 shows a transfer position 20 of a circular knitting machine having a knitting needle reciprocating as shown by arrow 24 in response to a cam (not shown) under a rotating cylinder (not shown) holding a series of knitting needles 22. A non-limiting example of is shown schematically. In a circular knitting machine, there are a plurality of these transport positions arranged in a circle so that the individual knitting positions are transported when the knitting needles carried by the moving cylinder are rotated beyond the position. The apparatus shown in FIG. 2 can be used to produce a knitted fabric with double elastic yarns, where two elastic yarns and one hard yarn have the same stitch pattern. In a non-limiting embodiment, three yarns are knitted together in the same path. In one non-limiting embodiment, the device and yarn are used to create a single jersey structure as shown in FIG.

  As shown in FIG. 2, during the splicing operation, the elastomer yarn 12, the polyester bicomponent filament 18, and the hard yarn 14 are sent to the knitting needle 22 by the carrier plate 26. The carrier plate 26 directs all three yarns simultaneously to the knitting position. Elastomeric yarn 12, polyester bicomponent filament 18, and hard yarn 14 are introduced into a knitting needle 22 to form a single jersey knit stitch 10 as shown in FIG.

  In this non-limiting embodiment, the hard yarn 14 is fed from the wound yarn package 28 to an accumulator 30 that meters the yarn to the carrier plate 26 and the knitting needle 22. The hard yarn 14 passes over the conveying roll 32 and passes through the guide hole 34 in the carrier plate 26. Optionally, two or more hard yarns may be sent to the knitting needles through different guide holes in the carrier plate 26.

  The polyester bicomponent filament 18 is sent from the wound package 60 to an accumulator 64 that meters the yarn to the carrier plate 26 and the knitting needle 22. The polyester bicomponent filament 18 passes over the conveying roll 66 and passes through the guide hole 34 of the carrier plate 26.

  The elastomeric yarn 12 is fed from the surface drive package 36 through a break end detector 39 and a diverting roll (s) 37 to a guide slot 38 in the carrier plate 26. The transport tension of the elastomeric thread 12 is measured between the detector 39 and the drive roll 37 or between the surface drive package 36 and the roll 37 if the break end detector is not used. The guide hole 34 and the guide slot 38 are provided in the carrier plate 26 so that the hard yarn 14, the polyester bicomponent filament 18, and the elastomer yarn 12 are adjacent to the knitting needle 22 and are substantially parallel (split yarn). Are separated from each other.

  The elastic yarn, also referred to herein as a draft, is when fed from the supply package to the carrier plate and then to the knit stitch due to the difference between stitch utilization and transport speed from the elastic yarn supply package. Stretch.

  “Draft” refers to the amount of stretch applied to the elastomeric yarn. The draft of the fiber is directly related to the elongation applied to the fiber (e.g., 100% elongation corresponds to a double draft, 200% elongation corresponds to a triple draft). ,Such).

  The ratio of the hard yarn feed speed (meters / minute) to the elastomer yarn feed speed is typically 1.5 to 4 times (1.5 to 4 times) larger and is known as a mechanical draft. This corresponds to an elongation of the elastomer yarn of 50% to 300% or more. The conveying tension of the elastomer yarn is directly related to the draft of the elastomer yarn. This transport tension is typically maintained at a value consistent with the high mechanical draft of the elastomeric yarn. In the present invention, improved results are obtained when the draft of the total elastomeric yarn measured in the fabric is maintained at about 5 times or less, typically 3 times or less, for example 2.5 times or less. It was. This draft value is the total draft of the elastomeric yarn and includes any stretching or stretching of the elastomeric yarn contained in the as-spun yarn supply package. The residual draft value from the elastomeric yarn is referred to as package relaxation, “PR”, which is typically 0.05 to 0. 0 for elastomer yarns used in circular knitted, elastic, single jersey fabrics. A range of 15. Therefore, the total draft of the elastomer yarn in the fabric is MD * (1 + PR), and “MD” is a knitting machine draft. The knitting machine draft is the ratio of the hard yarn delivery speed to the elastomer yarn delivery speed, both from the respective supply package. Due to its stress-strain properties, the elastomeric yarn will stretch more as the tension applied to the elastomeric yarn increases, and conversely, the more stretched the elastomeric yarn, the higher the yarn tension.

  A typical elastomer yarn path in a circular knitting machine is shown schematically in FIG. The elastomeric yarn 12 passes from the supply package 36 over the break end detector 39 or through one or more turning rolls 37 and then the elastomeric yarn to the knitting needle 22 and to the stitch. Is metered into the carrier plate 26 leading to Due to the frictional force applied by each device or roller that contacts the elastic yarn, there is a buildup of tension in the elastic yarn as it passes from the supply package through each device or roller. As such, the total draft of the elastomer yarn at the stitch is related to the total tension across the elastomer yarn path. The elastomer yarn conveyance tension is measured between the broken end detector 39 and the roll 37 shown in FIG. Alternatively, the elastomeric yarn transport tension is measured between the surface drive package 36 and the roll 37 when the break end detector 39 is not used. The higher this tension is set and controlled, the greater the draft of the elastomer yarn will be in the fabric and vice versa. For example, the transport tension can range from 2 to 4 cN for 22 dtex elastomer yarns and 4 to 6 cN for 44 dtex elastomer yarns in a commercial circular knitting machine. With these transport tension settings and the additional tension imparted by subsequent yarn-path friction, the elastomeric yarns in commercial knitting machines are stretched far more than three times. Minimizing elastomeric yarn friction between the supply package and the knit stitch keeps the elastomeric yarn conveyance tension high enough for reliable elastomeric yarn conveyance when the elastomeric yarn draft is 7 times or less. To assist. In order to ensure that the elastomeric yarn is conveyed from the supply package to the knit stitch, the draft of the elastomeric yarn is typically no more than 3 times.

  The polyester bicomponent filament 18 is also stretched or stretched before it enters the knitting needle 22. The yarn is stretched through the speed difference between the accumulator 64, the carrier plate 26, and then the knit stitch. The ratio of the feed speed (meter / minute) from the stitch use speed to the accumulator 64 is typically about 1.01 times to 1.35 times (1.01 times to 1.35 times). Adjusting the speed of the accumulator 64 provides the desired draft or stretch ratio. If the stretch ratio is too small, it will result in a low-quality fabric with a texture. If the stretch ratio is too high, the polyester bicomponent filament will be damaged.

  “Eye Muki” is a term used to describe the exposure of visible elastic yarn in the fabric. Eye drowsiness may appear as an undesirable shine. If it has to be selected, a lower eye surface on the front side is preferred over a lower surface surface on the back side.

  FIG. 3 provides a schematic diagram of an alternative transport system for the production of the dough of the present invention. In this non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament 18 is fed from the wound package 60 to an accumulator 64 that meters the yarn to the carrier plate 26 and the knitting needle 22. The polyester bicomponent filament 18 passes over the conveying roll 66 and passes through the guide hole 34 of the carrier plate 26. The elastomeric yarn 12 is fed from the surface drive package 36, passes through the break end detector 39 and the redirecting roll (s) 37 and is fed to the guide slot 38 in the carrier plate 26. The guide holes 34 and the guide slots 38 are separated from each other in the carrier plate 26 so that the polyester bicomponent filament 18 and the elastomeric yarn 12 are adjacent to the knitting needle 22 and are substantially parallel.

  In this embodiment, the hard yarn 14 is conveyed to the machine by a separated carrier plate and a separated knitting needle. In this way, it is possible to produce a fabric having hard yarn only in the selected course. In other courses, there are only two elastic yarns. This embodiment provides more opportunities for making various circular knit fabrics. It is not essential that all three yarns be present in the fabric at all courses.

  FIG. 4 provides a schematic diagram of yet another alternative transport system for the production of the dough of the present invention. In this non-limiting embodiment, both the polyester bicomponent filament 18 and the elastomeric yarn 12 are merged directly with a knitting needle without being previously merged with the carrier plate 26. This embodiment provides additional flexibility for knit designers developing different styles and patterns of fabrics, such as but not limited to Santoni seamless machines.

  As shown in FIG. 5, an elastic circular knitted fabric used for manufacturing an elastic fabric rib fabric can be manufactured by using two sets of elastic yarns. FIG. 5 shows a diagram of such a fabric made from elastomeric fibers 12 and polyester bicomponent filaments 18. The rib fabric 40 is produced on two needle beds with the needles formed alternately. The loops are drawn in opposite directions so that the front and back loops alternate on each course. Only the front loop is shown on both sides of the fabric. The back loop is exposed only when the fabric is stretched in the width direction. A rib fabric having two elastic fibers is very stretchable in the width direction and is flat without curling. They could be used for pullovers, vests, socks, underwear, and collars.

  Also, as shown in FIG. 6, two sets of elastic yarns can be used to manufacture a double layer knitted fabric made with a circular knitting machine having two needle beds. FIG. 6 shows a diagram of such a dough. The double knitted fabric 82 includes a first layer surface I84 and a second layer surface II86, and these layers are fixed to each other by a series of connecting yarns 88. The interlock yarn maintains the fabric layers in a spaced relationship with respect to each other.

  Furthermore, as shown in FIG. 7, two sets of elastic yarns can be used in the manufacture of a double layer spaced knitted fabric. FIG. 7 shows such a fabric structure 94. A polyester bicomponent filament, such as LYCRA® T400® fiber 96, is inserted between the two layers 84 and 86 of the fabric 94 as a cushion yarn. Under the heat and high temperature conditions during the dough finishing process, the polyester bicomponent filaments become coiled and expand in the thickness direction of the dough. These produce fabrics that are elastic / cushioned in all directions. Polyester bicomponent filaments also create a fabric with more space between the two layers, resulting in high thermal insulation. The interlock yarn 88 and the polyester bicomponent cushion yarn 96 maintain the fabric layers in a spaced relationship with respect to each other.

  An additional exemplary process for finishing an elastic circular knitted fabric made in accordance with the present invention is outlined in FIG. After the fabric 42 is knitted, mostly in the form of a tube, it is collected in a box under a knitting machine, as a rotating mandrel, as a flat tube, or after it is folded back and forth loosely. In an open width finish, the knitted tube is then opened 44 with a slit and laid flat. Subsequently, the opened dough is relaxed 46 by subjecting it to steam or by wetting it by dipping and pressing, also referred to as padding. The relaxed dough is then applied to a tenter frame and heated 46 for thermosetting in an oven. The tenter frame holds the fabric at the edge by the pin fabric and stretches it both lengthwise and widthwise to return the fabric to the desired dimensions and basis weight. If wet, dry the dough first. Thermal curing is then performed prior to subsequent wet process steps. As a result, thermal curing is often referred to as “pre-curing”. At the oven exit, the flat fabric is released from the stretcher and then clamped back to the 48 tubular shape, also referred to as sewing. The dough is then processed into a tubular form, for example through a wet process 50 of washing, scouring, and optional bleaching / dying with a soft flow jet device and then dewatered, for example, by a squeeze roll or in a centrifuge 52. The fabric is then peeled 54 by removing the sewing thread and reopening the fabric into a flat sheet. The flat, yet damp fabric is then subjected to a fabric overfeed which is the opposite of stretching so that it is not under tension in the length or machine direction while the fabric is being dried at a temperature below the heat setting temperature. Dry 56 in a tenter frame oven under conditions. The dough is pulled slightly in the width direction to flatten any potential wrinkles. An optional fabric finish such as a softener may be applied just prior to the drying operation 56. In some cases, the finish is applied after the dough is first dried by a belt or tenter frame oven so that the finish is evenly taken up by uniformly dried fibers. This additional step involves rewetting the dried dough with a finish and then drying the dough again in a tenter frame oven.

  Single layer knitted fabrics formed by knitting together elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments according to the present invention exhibit a combination of good stretchability, excellent recovery, pleasant hand feel, and good appearance. Elastomeric fibers provide the fabric with a high stretch level that allows the fabric to stretch easily and provide comfort to the wearer. In contrast to elastic yarns, polyester bicomponent filaments have a high elongation. Under the same load force, the polyester bicomponent filament does not stretch as much as the elastic yarn, thus suppressing the stretch of the fabric and preventing the fabric from stretching excessively. Polyester bicomponent filaments also have higher resilience than elastomeric bare fibers. As a result, the circular knit fabric of the present invention having two sets of different elastic fibers provides a soft hand, easy operation, high flexibility, high stretch modularity, and good shape retention. Polyester bicomponent filaments provide fabrics with high resilience and low fabric growth, while elastomeric yarns with low elastic modulus provide fabrics with easy stretch and low shrinkage, easy stretch, high retention And resulting in a fabric having high dimensional stability.

  The inventors herein also note that circular knit fabrics with two sets of different elastic fibers can be made with a flat surface and reduced non-uniform appearance and gloss resulting from the polyester bicomponent. I found. In knitted fabrics that contain only polyester bicomponent fibers as the seed power for stretching without elastomeric fibers, the bicomponent fibers produce a high frequency spatial spiral crimp similar to the appearance of a telephone line. These crimps provide very good stretch and wrinkle recovery, as well as capacity to yarns and fabrics. However, these crimps produce a severely uneven appearance that prevents the penetration of the polyester bicomponent in knit applications. The inventors herein have found that the addition of elastomeric fibers to the fabric significantly improves the non-uniformity of the polyester two-component crimp. The fabric of the present invention exhibits a flat surface and a softer feel.

  In one non-limiting embodiment of the manufacture of the fabric of the present invention, two elastic fibers are stretched to their original length drafts during the knitting process. The elastomer fiber draft may be selected from 1.8 times to 5.0 times, while the polyester bicomponent filament draft may be selected from 1.01 times to 1.35 times. For two elastic fibers having different deniers or different numbers of filaments, the stretch ratio of the polyester bicomponent filament and elastomer fine agent can be different from each other depending on the desired elastic fiber performance and fabric quality requirements. Often, elastomeric fibers are stretched more to provide high stretch performance, while polyester bicomponent filaments are stretched less to provide the fabric with low shrinkage and high resilience.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the two sets of elastic fibers not only have different polymer compositions, but also have different stress-strain behavior and different thermal behavior. For example, in one non-limiting embodiment, the fabric may comprise LYCRA® fibers T162B as elastomeric yarns and LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent filament spandex fibers as polyester bicomponent filaments. Good. In another non-limiting embodiment, the two sets of elastic yarns have different thermosetting efficiencies, such as 365
Curing of LYCRA® T400® fiber at 380 and 380
The T162B LYCRA® fiber at may be heat cured. In this non-limiting embodiment, the fabric is thermoset at a temperature above the thermosetting temperature of LYCRA® T400® fiber, but below the thermosetting temperature of LYCRA® fiber T162B. If done, the dough only obtains a partial heat cure that provides acceptable dough shrinkage and good stretch and growth.

  Another advantage of the fabric of the present invention is that polyester bicomponent filaments have better resistance to chemical and / or environmental factors than elastomeric fibers such as spandex. For example, polyester bicomponent filaments have better resistance to both chlorine and ultraviolet light compared to spandex. As a result, the fabrics of the present invention perform well as swimwear in pools containing chlorine and other outdoor active wear exposed to ultraviolet light.

  In some embodiments of the invention, the fabric consists only of elastic fibers that contain both elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments. Because there are no hard fibers in this embodiment, the fabric exhibits excellent flexibility and superior resiliency. This fabric embodiment is also highly breathable and lightweight. Thus, this fabric embodiment is ideal for garments that require high retention, full recovery, and breathability, including but not limited to bra wings, intimate garments, and sportswear. It is.

  The method of the present invention has been found to be particularly useful for producing single layer jersey fabric having a good quality terry jersey fabric structure. A terry jersey or float jersey is a knitted fabric characterized by a float stitch or soft pile yarn on one side of the fabric resulting in a highly absorbent, hygroscopic material. Some types of float jersey fabrics are heavier than T-shirts, but lighter and more elastic than most sweatshirts, thus making them very comfortable to wear. Another type of float jersey fabric has a flat and clean appearance on both sides of the fabric with strong resilience. Terry jersey fabrics typically have higher stretch and higher resilience than single jersey fabrics in all directions.

  The terry jersey fabric can be knitted according to the present invention by using two sets of different elastomeric yarns arranged alternately in the wale direction. A first set of yarns, called loop yarns, are knitted as a single jersey with each heel. A second set of yarns, referred to as float yarns, are knitted with float loops and interlocked with the first set of loop yarns. Float yarns can float on various folds such as one fold, two folds, or more folds. For the fabrics of the present invention, either elastomeric fibers or polyester bicomponent filaments can be used for either loop or float yarns, or they can be used together for both loop and float yarns. . In one non-limiting embodiment, hard yarns can also be incorporated into loop yarns and / or float yarns. The elastic fibers used in the present invention are more easily stretched in a float loop structure with flat fiber portions and have a higher resilience.

  The fabric of some embodiments of the present invention exhibits an elongation of about 20% to about 200% in the wale and / or course direction. In addition, such fabrics may have a shrinkage of about 15% or less during washing, for example, less than 7% in both the length and width directions. The dough may have a weight of 100 grams to 600 grams per square meter. Furthermore, the stretch fabric may have an excellent feel.

  The present invention also relates to garments prepared from the fabrics described herein. While these fabric features make them particularly useful in casual and leisure wear garments, seamless fabrics containing two different sets of two elastic yarns are also useful in outerwear. Further, the ability to change the denier and knitting pattern of the elastic yarn makes such fabrics useful in certain areas of many garments. For example, the fabric of the present invention, which includes heavier denier and higher draft elastomeric yarn, has been added to garments to have better holding power in certain critical areas such as the knee, thigh inside, and full panel of trousers. It is thus possible to produce a garment with a higher shaping function and higher strain force. In other parts, the fabrics of the present invention having less stretch and distortion may be used, thus providing better comfort. As a result, the fabrics of the present invention are particularly useful in producing all types of high-quality comfort garments that have a spot shaping function in critical areas. Non-limiting examples of garments that can be made from the fabrics of the present invention include sportswear, active wear, swimwear, bras, underwear, underwear, leggings, outwear, and shoe fabrics.

  The next section provides further explanation of the doughs and methods for their manufacture. The examples are illustrative only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way.

Analytical Methods Recoverable Stretch of Yarn The recoverable stretch of the elastic fiber used in the examples was measured according to ASTM D6720-07. Each yarn sample was formed into a skein of 5000 ± 5 total denier (5550 dtex) using a skein reel at a tension of about 0.1 gpd (0.09 dN / tex). The skein was then immersed in water at 100 ° C. for 15 minutes, after which the skein was removed from the water. The skein is then allowed to air dry for a minimum of 16 hours,
(21 ° ± 1 ° C.) and 65% (± 2%) relative humidity.

The skein was hung from the stand almost vertically. After 3 cycles with a suspended weight of 1030 grams, a 1030 gram weight (206 mg / d; 185.4 mg / dtex) was suspended from the bottom of the skein, and the skein length was measured to be within 1 mm, “L ₁ ” Was recorded. Next, a weight of 6 mg / den (5.4 mg / dtex) (eg, 30 grams for a 5550 dtex skein) is suspended from the bottom of the skein, the weighted skein is brought to equilibrium length, and the skein length The thickness was measured to within 1 mm and recorded as “L _2” . The recoverable elongation (percent) of the yarn, “CC _a ”, was calculated according to the formula CC _a (%) = 100 × (L ₁ −L ₂ ) / L ₂ .

Elastic Yarn Draft The elastic yarn draft in the examples was measured using the following procedure. Yarn samples of more than 200 stitches (needles) were marked at the beginning and end of the 200 stitches, and were knitted or unwound from a single course, separating the elastic and hard yarns of this sample.

  Each sample (elastic or hard yarn) was then freely suspended by attaching one end onto a ruler with one mark on top of a 1 meter ruler. A weight was attached to each sample (0.1 g / denier for hard yarn and 0.001 g / denier for spandex). The weight was gradually lowered to allow the end of the yarn sample to be weighted without impact. The length measured between the marks was then recorded. The measurement was repeated using 5 samples each of elastic yarn and hard yarn. The average draft was then calculated according to the following formula: Draft = (length of hard yarn between marks) ÷ (length of elastic yarn between marks).

Elastomer fiber content The knitted fabric was weighed and then manually knitted. The elastomer fibers were separated from the attached hard yarn and weighed with a precision laboratory balance or torsion balance. The content of elastomer fibers is expressed as a percentage of the elastomer weight relative to the fabric weight.

Fabric stretch (stretch)
The fabric was evaluated for percent elongation under a specific load (ie, force) in the fabric stretch direction, which is the direction of the composite yarn (ie, weft, warp, or weft and warp). Three samples measuring 60 cm × 6.5 cm were cut from the dough. The long dimension (60 cm) corresponds to the stretching direction. The sample was partially unwound to reduce the sample width to 5.0 cm. The samples were then conditioned for at least 16 hours at 20 ° C. ± 2 ° C. and 65% ± 2% relative humidity.

  A first benchmark was made across the width of each sample, 6.5 cm from the edge of the sample. A second benchmark was created across the sample width at 50.0 cm from the first benchmark. Extra fabric from the second benchmark to the other end of the sample was used to form and sew a loop into which the metal pin could be inserted. The notch was then cut into the loop so that the weight could be attached to the metal pin.

The non-loop end of the sample was fixed and the dough sample was suspended vertically. A 17.8 Newton (N) weight (4 LB) was attached to the metal pin through the hanging dough loop so that the dough sample was stretched by weight. The sample was “moved” by allowing the sample to stretch with a weight for 3 seconds. The force was then manually reduced by lifting the weight. This cycle was performed three times. The weight was then suspended freely, thus stretching the dough sample. The distance in millimeters between the two benchmarks was measured while the fabric was under load. Let this distance be ML. The original distance between benchmarks (ie, unstretched distance) was taken as GL. The percent dough elongation for each individual sample was calculated as follows.
Elongation% (E%) = ((ML−GL) / GL) × 100

  Three elongation results were averaged for the final result.

Fabric growth (stretch not recovered)
After stretching, the ungrown dough recovers exactly to its original length before stretching. Typically, however, the stretch fabric will not fully recover and will be slightly longer after prolonged stretching. This slight increase in length is called “growth”.

  The above fabric elongation test must be completed before the growth test. Only the stretch direction of the dough was tested. For bi-directional stretch fabrics, both directions were tested. Three samples of 55.0 cm × 6.0 cm each were cut from the dough. These were different samples from those used in the elongation test. The 55.0 cm direction should correspond to the stretch direction. The sample was partially unwound to reduce the sample width to 5.0 cm. Samples were conditioned at temperature and humidity as in the elongation test above. Two benchmarks exactly 50 cm apart were placed across the width of the sample.

Using the known% elongation (E%) from the elongation test, the sample length at 80% of this known elongation was calculated. This is calculated as follows:
E (length) at 80% = (E% / 100) × 0.80 × L,

Where L was the original length between benchmarks (ie 50.0 cm). Both ends of the sample were fixed and the sample was stretched until the length between the benchmarks was equal to L + E (length) calculated above. This stretching was maintained for 30 minutes, after which the stretching force was released and the sample was freely suspended and allowed to relax. After 60 minutes, the growth rate% is measured as follows:
Growth rate% = (L2 × 100) / L,

  Where L2 is the increase in length between sample benchmarks after relaxation and L is the original length between benchmarks. This growth rate% was measured for each sample, and the number of growth was determined by averaging the results.

Fabric recovery Fabric recovery means that a fabric can recover to its original length after deformation from elongation or tensile stress. It is expressed as the ratio of the increased stretched length of the fabric being pulled to the length of the fabric after release of elongation or tensile stress. It can be calculated from fabric stretch and fabric growth.

Fabric Shrinkage Fabric shrinkage after washing was measured. The dough was first conditioned at temperature and humidity as in the elongation and growth test. Two samples (60 cm × 60 cm) were then cut from the dough. Samples were taken at least 15 cm away from the ears. A 40 cm × 40 cm four-sided box was marked on the dough sample.

  The sample was washed in a washing machine with the sample and filling fabric. The total input of the washing machine was 2 kg of air-dried material, and less than half of the laundry consisted of test samples. The laundry was gently washed at a water temperature of 40 ° C. and dehydrated. Depending on the water hardness, detergent amounts of 1 g / l to 3 g / l were used. The samples were placed on a flat surface until they were dry, then they were conditioned for 16 hours at 20 ° C. ± 2 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65% ± 2%.

The shrinkage of the fabric sample was then measured in the warp and weft directions by measuring the distance between the markings. The shrinkage C% after washing is calculated as follows:
C% = ((L1-L2) / L1) × 100,

  In the formula, L1 is an original distance (40 cm) between markings, and L2 is a distance after drying. Results were averaged for the samples and reported for both the weft and warp directions. The negative shrinkage number reflected the expansion, which was possible in some cases due to the behavior of the hard yarn.

Fabric Weight A knitted fabric sample was punched with a mold having a diameter of 10 cm. Each cut knitted fabric sample was weighed in grams. The “dough weight” was then calculated as grams / square meter.

Final resilience The dough was cut into 3 x 8 inches. Benchmark “A” was applied 1 inch from one edge of each specimen by using a fabric marking pen. Benchmark “B” was placed 6 inches from benchmark “A”, resulting in two benchmarks 6 inches apart. The fabric specimens were then sewn into the loop by folding the two short edges together so that the benchmarks were aligned and a straight seam was sewn across the mark. The test loop is then
And at a relative humidity of 65% for at least 16 hours. The specimen was moved in an Instron machine by stretching and releasing to 200% per minute to 75% elongation in 3 cycles. The unloading force at 30% elongation in the third cycle was recorded as the fabric recovery force. The fabric resilience represents the fabric resilience while wearing clothing.

  The following non-limiting examples demonstrate the present invention and its ability to be used in making various doughs. The invention is capable of other and different embodiments, and its several details are capable of modifications in various obvious respects, without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention. As a result, the examples should be regarded as illustrative in nature and not as limiting.

  For the example, a 28 gauge single layer circular knit fabric with two elastic yarns spliced with hard yarn has a 26 inch cylinder diameter, 28 gauge (needles per inch per circumference), and Knitted on a Monarch Circular Knitting Machine model VX-RDS with 2232 needles, as well as 42 transport positions. The circular knitting machine was operated at 16 revolutions per minute (rpm). A 44 gauge single layer circular knit fabric was knitted with a Monarch Circular Knitting Machine model VX-3S, 30 inches in diameter, needle 4152, feeder 90, and approximately RPM20.

  The double-layer circular knit fabric was made with a Terrot Circular Knitting Machine, model RH-216I, 18 inch cylinder diameter, 24 gauges per circular cylinder inch. There are 24 needles per inch on the dial, technically making it 48 gauge, which is called 24, it is 1356 needles in the cylinder, 1356 needles in the dial, 30 feeders There is approximately 18 RPM.

  The elastomer fiber transport tension was measured between the elastomer fiber supply package 36 and the roller guide 37 (FIG. 2) using an Iro Memminger digital tensiometer, model number MER2. For the following examples, the elastomer fiber transport tension was maintained at 4 and 7 grams for 40 and 70 denier spandex. These tensions are sufficient to reliably and continuously convey this elastomeric yarn of spandex to the knitting needle. If the conveying tension is too low, the spandex yarn cannot be reliably conveyed to the circular knitting machine by wrapping around the roller guide in the supply package. The tensioning device for the polyester bicomponent filament yarn and the hard yarn was an IRO Memminger of the MPF40 KIF model. The tension on the polyester bicomponent filament was about 8-9 grams. The tension on the hard yarn was about 6-7 grams.

  The example of the seamless fabric of this invention produced by circular knitting using the SMA-8-TOP seamless knitting machine (henceforth a "SANTONI knitting machine") of 28-inch main body size made from SANTONI (Italy, GRUPPO LONATI). Different combinations of knitting structures with different types of yarn were used. This machine has eight yarn conveying positions. It operated at 70 revolutions per minute (rpm). The elastomer fiber conveyance tension was measured with a BTSR (registered trademark) digital tensiometer, model number KTF-100HP. For the following examples, the elastomer transport tension was maintained at 1 gram for each 10 denier spandex. The tensioning device for the polyester bicomponent filament yarn and the hard yarn was a model ROJ Tricot IRO Memminger.

  The knitted fabric was preheated, scoured, dyed and dried. For seamless fabrics, the fabrics went through a finishing process without thermosetting. The dough was scoured and bleached in 100 liters of solution at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes. Wet jet finishing and dyeing were all performed on a horizontal jet dyeing machine Thies with soft flowers. The dough contains Domoscour LFE810 (13 grams) (scouring and emulsifying agent from M. Dohmen Company), Lurotex A-25 (100 grams) (hydrophilic finishing and softening agent from BASF Corporation) for 5 minutes at 49 ° C. Scoured in advance with an aqueous solution.

  The dough was dyed for 60 minutes at 85 ° C. using direct dye and other ingredients. The dye solution contained 85.8 grams of Solophenyl FGE250 (from Huntsmen Corp.), 0.5 wt% trisodium phosphate (pH adjusted), and 45000 grams of sodium chloride. Then 78 grams of Burcofix 195 (color fixative from M. Dohmen Company) and 65 grams of Ultratex MES and 10 grams of acetic acid were added to the dyebath and run at 45 ° C. for 30 minutes. The solution tank was drained and the dough was removed from the container. The dough was then dried in a tenter (Kenyon Company) oven at 145 ° C. for about 30 seconds.

Table 1 lists the materials and process conditions used to produce fabric samples with elastomer and polyester bicomponent filaments. The elastic yarns used are Invista, s. Of Wilmington, Delaware and Wichita, Kansas.
r. L. Is available from The column headed by elastic fiber 40d means 40 denier, and 3.3X means a draft (mechanical draft) of an elastic material provided by the core spinning machine. In the column entitled “Hard Yarn”, Example 16 is the linear density of the spun yarn as measured by the English Cotton Count System. The remaining items in Table 1 are clearly displayed.

Comparative Example 1C: Comparative Knitted Fabric with One Spandex A stretchable single jersey circular knitted fabric with only spandex fibers was made on a 28 gauge machine. The fabric was made of 30s cotton spun yarn with 40D LYCRA® spandex fibers. The draft of the LYCRA® fiber was 2.7 times during knitting. 30s cotton yarn was spliced together with LYCRA® fibers to form a single jersey fabric. This dough has a very high stretch level of 219.2% in the width direction, but has a low resilience (85.1 grams x 77.6 grams) in both the length and width directions. The dough was easily stretched but difficult to recover. Such easy deformation and difficult recovery results in garments made from the fabric being less capable of maintaining the shape and dimensional stability of those garments. The garment exhibits sagging and bagging while wearing. The fabric contained 7.7% LYCRA® fiber and 92.3% cotton.

Example 2: Cotton jersey fabric with two different elastic fibers This sample had the same fabric structure as Example 1C except that it incorporated 50D LYCRA® T400® fiber. The fabric contained two elastic yarns according to the invention, 40D LYCRA® spandex fiber and 50d / 34f LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent filament. The cotton yarn was 50Ne yarn. Table 1 summarizes the test results. It is clear that this sample has good elongation (length 85.3% x width 116.4%). This fabric also has a low shrinkage. The dough also has improved resiliency (205.9% length x 146.2% width). The addition of polyester bicomponent filaments significantly increased the retention of the jersey fabric, limited excess stretch in the width direction, and at the same time increased resilience in both directions. The fabric demonstrated high stable dimensions and strong shape retention ability. This fabric contained 4.6% LYCRA® fiber, 28.0% LYCRA® T400® bicomponent fiber and 67.4% cotton.

Example 3 Single Layer Knit Containing Double Elastic Fiber This sample has the same fabric structure as Example 2 except for the denier of LYCRA® T400® fiber and is 2.7 times Draft 40D T162B LYCRA (R) fiber and 1.10x draft 75d / 34f LYCRA (R) T400 (R) fiber were used. The hard yarn was a 50Ne 100% cotton ring spun yarn having a single jersey stitch structure. The finished fabric had a weight of 6.1 ounces / yard ² and elongations of 84.5% and 118.3% in the length and width directions, respectively. The dough recovery force was 314.6 grams x 214.6 grams in the length and width directions. As shown, the high denier LYCRA® T400® fiber helped increase the fabric resiliency in both directions. The fabric contains 7.6% LYCRA® fiber, 37.8% LYCRA® T400® bicomponent fiber, and 54.6% cotton.

Example 4: Single layer knit containing double elastic fiber This sample has the same fabric structure as Example 2 except for the denier of LYCRA (R) fiber, 70D T162B LYCRA (R) fiber, For the 2.7X draft, and 70D LYCRA® fiber, 1.05x draft, and 75d / 34f LYCRA® T400® fiber was used. The hard yarn was a 50Ne 100% cotton ring spun yarn having a single jersey stitch structure. The finished fabric had a weight of 6.5 ounces / yard ² and elongations of 100.8% and 97.3% in the length and width directions, respectively. The dough recovery force was 290.2 grams x 249.7 grams in the length and width directions. As shown herein, high denier LYCRA® fibers increase fabric resiliency in both directions. The fabric contains 14.4% LYCRA® fiber, 26.3% LYCRA® T400® bicomponent fiber, and 59.3% cotton.

Example 5: Single layer jersey fabric with 100% elastic fiber This sample is a single layer jersey fabric containing 100% elastic fiber, 40D T275B LYCRA® fiber and 50D / 34f LYCRA® T400. (Registered trademark) Polyester bicomponent fiber. The dough weight was 4.8 ounces / yard ² with 31.4% elastomer fibers and 68.5% polyester bicomponent fibers. Due to the absence of hard fibers, the fabric exhibits excellent flexibility and good resiliency. The dough also has high breathability and quick drying. It is an ideal material for garments that require high holding power, full recovery, and breathability. It is also ideal for swimwear. The two-component polyester is chlorine resistant. In pools, the fabrics have better anti-chlorine performance than stretch fabrics that contain only spandex fibers that lose resilience when exposed to pools containing chlorinated chemicals for extended periods of time. This dough also has stretch and recovery properties in the bra cup region, even after shaping at high temperatures. This can provide better comfort for the wearer of the bra, especially for the sports bra.

Example 6: Single-layer jersey fabric with 100% elastic fiber This fabric is of Example 5 except that the denier of the polyester bicomponent filament LYCRA® T400® fiber is 30D / 34f. Had the same dough structure. The draft of 40D LYCRA® bare fiber was 1.8X, and the draft of LYCRA® T400® was 1.05X. This fabric used the same stitch structure as in Example 5. Table 1 summarizes the test results. This sample also had good elongation of 105.6% x 122.6% and good fabric resilience of 218.9 g x 309.1 g. The use of low denier LYCRA® T400® fiber made the fabric with a more open structure and soft hand feel lighter.

Example 7: Single-layer terry jersey fabric containing two elastic fibers This sample was a terry jersey fabric with a float loop on one side of a single knitted fabric. The loop yarns were 40D T275B LYCRA® elastomer fiber and 50D / 34f polyester bicomponent filament of LYCRA® T400® fiber. The float yarn was 40D T275B LYCRA® elastomer fiber and 40D textured nylon fiber. The front side of the fabric looked like a typical single jersey, but the back side of the fabric had a float loop that was skipped by one loop. The float loop was formed by a loop yarn knit loop stitch. The LYCRA® fiber draft was 1.8X, while the LYCRA® T400® fiber draft was 1.05X. The dough weight was 6.1 ounces / yard ² and the dough extension was 92.3% × 126.1%. The dough had very high resilience of 211.7 g × 260.2 g each in the length × width direction. The fabric had good nylon fiber feel and LYCRA® T400® fiber strength performance.

Example 8: Single-layer terry jersey fabric containing 100% elastic fiber This sample had a float loop on one side of a single knitted fabric. Both loop and float yarns were 50D / 34f polyester bicomponent filaments of 40D T275B LYCRA® elastomer fiber and LYCRA® T400® fiber. The front side of the fabric looked like a typical single jersey, but the back side of the fabric had a float loop that was skipped by one loop. The float loop was formed by a loop yarn knit loop stitch. The draft of LYCRA® fiber was 1.8X, while the draft of LYCRA® T400® fiber was 1.05X. The fabric weight was 5.3 ounces / yard ² and the fabric extension was 69.3% x 91.5%. The dough had very high resilience of 329.7 g × 416.7 g in the length × width direction, respectively.

Example 9: Single-layer terry jersey fabric containing 100% elastic fibers This example had the same fabric structure as Example 8. The fabric was made of 42.6% LYCRA® fiber and 57.4% LYCRA® T400® fiber with a terry structure. The difference was that 70D T275Z LYCRA® fiber was used instead of 40D T1275B LYCRA® fiber for both loop and float yarns. The higher denier LYCRA® fibers ensure a higher weight and greater force of the fabric. This fabric can be used for orthopedic underwear having strong holding power.

Example 10: 1 × 1 lip fabric with spandex and polyester bicomponent filaments This sample was a 1 × 1 lip fabric made from a double knitting machine. 50d / 34f LYCRA® T400® fiber and 40D LYCRA® fiber were spliced together at each course. Both sides of the fabric have a similar appearance. Compared to jersey fabric, it is thicker and heavier. It can be solved at one end only. The fabric was laid flat without curling and exhibited excellent width elasticity. The fabric is particularly useful for underwear and T-shirts. The content of LYCRA® and LYCRA® T400® fibers is 23.0% and 77.0% of the inner fabric with a total weight of 7.1 ounces / yard ² .

Example 11: 2x2 Lip Fabric with Spandex and Polyester Bicomponent Filament This sample was a 2x2 lip fabric made from a double knitting machine. 50d / 34f LYCRA® T400® fiber and 40D LYCRA® fiber were spliced together at each course. Both sides of the fabric have a similar appearance. Compared to jersey dough, this sample is thicker and heavier. It can be solved at one end only. The fabric was laid flat without curling and exhibited excellent width elasticity. This fabric is particularly useful for T-shirt collars because it has the advantage of being flat and non-curled.

Example 12: Double layer knitted fabric with spandex and polyester bicomponent filaments This sample was a knitted fabric made on a double knitting machine. The fabric has two faces, face A and face B, connected to each other with interlock yarns. The A-side yarn is a 32S cotton spun yarn with 70D LYCRA (registered trademark) fibers, the B-side yarn is 150D LYCRA (registered trademark) T400 (registered trademark) fibers, and the interlock yarn is 75D polyester. It is. The dough had a weight of 212.2 grams / m ² . 70D LYCRA® fiber provided stretch and recovery on the A side. The 150d / 68f LYCRA® T400® fiber provided support and recovery. Compared to single layer knitted fabric, LYCRA® T400® fiber allows LYCRA® T400® fiber to get full relaxation and coiled, Has a more open space in the double layer fabric. As such, the fabric has a thick thickness and high warmth with a CLO value of 0.31. A 75D polyester filament was used as an interlock yarn to connect the two layers together.

Example 13: Double-layer knitted fabric with spandex and polyester bicomponent filaments This sample was also a knitted fabric made with a double knitting machine. The fabric had two sides, side A and side B, connected to each other with interlock yarns. The surface A yarn is a 32S cotton spun yarn with 70D LYCRA® fibers, the surface B yarn is 150D LYCRA® T400® fibers, and the interlock yarn is 70D LYCRA. (Registered trademark) fiber. The dough had a weight of 325.3 grams / m ² . Two yarns of 70D LYCRA® fiber provide stretch and recovery on the A side, and interlock yarn 150d / 68f LYCRA® T400® fiber provides support and resilience It was. Compared to Example 11, the 70D LYCRA® fiber in the interlock yarn provides greater force in this double layer fabric, thus allowing all fibers to be drawn closer and significantly Accompanied by a thick thickness and high warmth. This sample had a CLO value of 0.52.

Example 14: Double Layer Knitted Fabric with Cushion Yarn of LYCRA® T400® This sample was a knitted fabric made on a double knitting machine. The fabric had two sides, side A and side B, connected to each other with interlock yarns. The face A yarn was a 32S cotton spun yarn with 40D LYCRA® fibers, the B side yarn was 75D COOLMAX® polyester fibers, and the interlock yarn was a 32s cotton yarn. The dough weight was 244 grams / m ² . 40D LYCRA® fiber provides stretch and recovery in side A, and 150d / 68f LYCRA® T400® fiber provides side A and side B to provide support and recovery. Inserted in the center of. It was covered with two surfaces of the fabric so that the LYCRA® T400® fiber was not visible from the front and back of the fabric. LYCRA® T400® fiber shrinks and coiles under heating conditions during the fabric finishing process, thus the entire fabric swells and expands in the thickness direction, and has a high elasticity in the thickness direction. Forms a cushioning feel that has properties. The LYCRA® T400® fiber is placed in the middle of the fabric and has more open space in this bilayer fabric, so the LYCRA® T400® fiber has full relaxation. It becomes possible to obtain a coil shape. As such, the fabric has a thick thickness and high warmth, and a CLO value of 0.32.

Example 15: Double Layer Knitted Fabric with Cushion Yarn of LYCRA® T400® This sample was a double knitted fabric with two sides, an interlock yarn and a cushion yarn. The A-side yarn was 150D Supplex® nylon filament and 70D LYCRA® fiber. The B-side yarn was 75D COOLMAX® polyester fiber. 150D Supplex® nylon yarn was used as the interlock yarn. 150d / 68f T400 was spun into the center of the fabric between side A and side B. It is invisible but increases the bulk and thickness of the fabric with good cushioning and elasticity. It is an idea material for winter active wear with good cold protection and heat retention. The dough can also be formed into a bra cup with good covering, shape retention, and comfort.

Example 16: Double-layer knitted fabric with LYCRA® T400® fiber cushion yarn This fabric is a double-layer interlock fabric with LYCRA® T400® fiber cushion yarn there were. A spun yarn of 30 s TENCEL® fiber was used as side A and the connecting yarn. 70D LYCRA® fiber was used on both sides of the fabric. This fabric gives an excellent soft hand and very good stretch and recovery. LYCRA® T400® fibers in the middle and B-plane provide a cushioning effect and a 3D effect. The fabric contains 8.3% LYCRA® spandex fiber and 11.6% LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent fiber.

Example 17: Double Layer Knitted Fabric with Cushion Yarn of 75D LYCRA® T400® Fiber This sample was a double knitted fabric with both sides. Surface A contained 50S TENCEL® spun yarn in all courses, and 70d LYCRA® fibers were spun into an alternative course. B-side yarn is a 50s TENCEL® spun yarn with 70D LYCRA® fiber. A 50s TENCEL® yarn was also used as the interlock yarn. A 75D / 34f LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent filament was introduced in the middle of the two sides to form a space. This sample is particularly useful for leggings in the autumn and spring seasons.

Claims (47)

  Stretch circular knit fabric containing elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments.   The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastomer fiber comprises an elastomer bare yarn.   The fabric of claim 1, wherein the elastomeric fibers comprise spandex.   4. The fabric of claim 3, wherein the spandex comprises a bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex.   The fabric of claim 1, wherein the elastomeric fibers have a denier of 10 denier to 450 denier.   The polyester bicomponent filament is poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate), poly (trimethylene terephthalate), and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate), or The dough of claim 1, comprising a combination.   The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.   The fabric of claim 1, wherein the polyester bicomponent filament has a denier of from about 10 to about 450.   The weight of the elastomer fiber is about 3% or more of the total fabric weight, the weight of the polyester bicomponent filament is about 5% or more of the total fabric weight, and the stretch level of the fabric is in the wale direction and the course direction. The dough of claim 1, wherein both are at least 15% or more.   The fabric according to claim 1, comprising 100% elastic yarn.   The fabric according to claim 1, further comprising hard fibers.   The fabric according to claim 7, wherein the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10 to 900 dtex.   8. The fabric of claim 7, wherein the hard yarn is selected from the group consisting of wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, olefin, cotton, and combinations thereof.   The fabric according to claim 7, wherein the hard yarn is a textured polyester filament.   The fabric according to claim 7, wherein the hard yarn is a cotton spun yarn.   The fabric according to claim 7, wherein the hard yarn is a nylon filament.   17. The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 16, having a stretch in the wale direction or course direction of about 20 to about 200%.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which is a single-layer knitted fabric produced on a single knitted floor.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which is a double-layer knitted fabric produced with a double knitted floor.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which is a single jersey knitted fabric.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which is a terry jersey knitted fabric.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which is a rib knitted fabric.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which is a double-sided fabric.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which is a double-sided fabric having a polyester bicomponent filament between two sides.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 17, which is a separated fabric having a cushion yarn between both surfaces and two surfaces.   The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 25, which is produced using a circular knitting machine, a seamless knitting machine or a flat knitting machine.   27. A fabric according to any preceding claim, wherein the elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments are combined together by a pre-coated yarn process prior to knitting.   28. A dough according to any of claims 1 to 27, having a weight of between 100 and 600 grams per square meter.   A garment prepared from the dough according to any one of claims 1 to 28.   30. The garment of claim 29, selected from the group consisting of sportswear, active wear, swimwear, bras, underwear, underwear, leggings, outwear, and shoe fabric.   A method for making a circular knitted fabric, the method comprising knitting together at least one elastomer fiber and at least one polyester bicomponent filament into a circular knitted fabric.   32. The method of claim 31, wherein the elastomeric fibers comprise elastomeric bare yarn.   32. The method of claim 31, wherein the elastomeric fiber comprises spandex.   34. The method of claim 33, wherein the spandex comprises a spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex.   32. The method of claim 31, wherein the elastomeric fibers have a denier of 10 denier to 450 denier.   The polyester bicomponent filament is poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate), poly (trimethylene terephthalate), and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate), or 32. The method of claim 31, comprising a combination.   32. The method of claim 31, wherein the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.   32. The method of claim 31, wherein the polyester bicomponent filament has a denier of about 10 to about 450.   The weight of the elastomer fiber is about 3% or more of the total fabric weight, the weight of the polyester bicomponent filament is about 5% or more of the total fabric weight, and the stretch level of the fabric is in the wale direction and the course direction. 32. The method of claim 31, wherein both are at least 15% or more.   32. The method of claim 31, wherein the fabric comprises 100% elastic yarn.   32. The method of claim 31, further comprising knitting hard fibers into a circular knit fabric.   42. The method of claim 41, wherein the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10-900 dtex.   42. The method of claim 41, wherein the hard yarn is selected from the group consisting of wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, olefin, cotton, and combinations thereof.   42. The method of claim 41, wherein the hard yarn is a textured polyester filament.   42. The method of claim 41, wherein the hard yarn is a cotton spun yarn.   42. The method of claim 41, wherein the hard yarn is a nylon filament. 47. A method according to any of claims 31 to 46, wherein the dough has a stretch in the wale or course direction of about 20 to about 200%.