JP7358237B2 - Stretch knitted fabrics containing elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments, garments made therefrom, and methods of manufacturing the same - Google Patents

Description

INDUSTRIAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the production of stretchable circular knit fabrics containing two different sets of elastic fibers with improved anti-see-through, high retention, and resilience. Elastic circular knit fabrics are made from elastomeric elastic fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments, and optionally rigid yarns.

Elastomeric fibers are commonly used to provide stretch and elastic recovery to knitted fabrics and garments.

Most available stretch circular knit fabrics on the market are made from a single type of elastic and rigid fibers. Such fabrics are widely known as comfortable fabrics because they deform and/or stretch more easily during wear. The comfort of garments made from these knitted fabrics results from the rearrangement of their stitches and the stretching of elastic fibers. However, knit stitch realignment and recovery with a single elastic fiber is generally incomplete because the yarn does not provide sufficient recovery force to realign the stretched stitch. As a result, a single elastic knitted fabric may experience permanent deformation or "bagging" in certain garment areas, such as the elbows of shirt sleeves, where more stretching occurs. Therefore, consumers see bagging or sagging after long periods of wear. Due to the loop structure, circular knit fabrics exhibit high deformation forces as well as low holding forces compared to woven fabrics, which limits the penetration of circular knits in bottom weight.

To improve circular knit fabric recovery performance, it is now common to co-knit large amounts of spandex fibers with attached hard yarns. Higher spandex content provides fabrics with higher stretch levels and better recovery. However, high spandex content results in other quality issues such as high fabric shrinkage, edge curl, and rubber feel. It is difficult to obtain fabrics with easy stretchability, high recovery rate, low shrinkage, and good stability.

Another potential problem is the issue of sheerness in knitted fabrics, particularly in bottoms such as yoga pants. Such fabrics may become too sheared and therefore become transparent when the wearer bends over or stretches, thus exposing the wearer's undergarments and/or body parts. This problem may be difficult to detect when the wearer is simply standing. This problem does not become apparent until the wearer is in a yoga position or doing a pre-workout stretch.

Polyester bicomponent filaments are elastic filaments based on polyester fibers that have moderate elasticity, good recovery, and other desirable fiber properties. It is widely used in textiles. However, when used in knitted fabrics, it tends to exhibit severe, random, uneven surfaces that make the look and feel of the fabric undesirable.

Therefore, there is a need to produce stretch knitted fabrics that have easy stretchability, easy processability, low shrinkage, ease of garment manufacturing, good recovery, good hand feel and appearance, and good warmth. .

Aspects of the present invention relate to methods for making stretch circular knit fabrics containing elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments.

In one non-limiting embodiment of the method of the invention, two different sets of elastic fibers are knitted together to form a single layer circular knitted fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex comprises spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, the knitted fabric includes 100% elastic yarns and there are no hard fibers inside the knitted fabric.

In another non-limiting embodiment of the method of the invention, the fabric further comprises rigid fibers. In this non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fibers may be elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10 to 900 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

In another non-limiting embodiment of the invention, two sets of elastic and rigid fibers with different properties are knitted together to form a double layer circular knitted fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fibers have a yarn count of 10-900 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

In yet another non-limiting embodiment of the method of the invention, two sets of elastic fibers and rigid fibers with different properties are knitted together to form a double layer spaced circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises an elastomeric bare yarn that includes spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In this non-limiting embodiment, polyester bicomponent filaments are placed in the center of the spacer fabric as cushioning threads.

Another aspect of the invention relates to a stretch circular knit fabric comprising elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments. Various forms of circular knit fabrics may be used, including, but not limited to, single jersey, float jersey, lip separation fabrics. Further processing of the fabric may include, but is not limited to, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, drying, cleaning, sintering, desizing, mercerizing, and any combination of such steps.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the fabric is a single layer circular knit fabric formed by knitting two different sets of elastic fibers together. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex comprises spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, the knitted fabric includes 100% elastic yarns and there are no hard fibers inside the knitted fabric.

In another non-limiting embodiment, the stretchable circular knit fabric further includes rigid fibers. In this non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fibers may be elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10 to 900 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

In another non-limiting embodiment of the invention, the fabric is a double layer circular knit fabric formed by knitting together two sets of elastic and rigid fibers with different properties. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fibers have a yarn count of 10-900 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

In yet another non-limiting embodiment, the fabric is a double layer spaced circular knit fabric form by knitting together two sets of elastic and rigid fibers with different properties. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In this non-limiting embodiment, polyester bicomponent filaments are placed in the center of the spacer fabric as cushioning threads.

Another aspect of the invention relates to garments made from the fabrics of the invention.

1 is a schematic diagram of a non-limiting embodiment of a fabric of the present invention showing the stitches of a plated knit comprising elastomeric fibers, polyester bicomponent filaments, and rigid yarns; FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a portion of a circular knitting machine transported with a rigid yarn transport device, a polyester bicomponent filament transport device, and a spandex yarn transport device in the production of a non-limiting fabric embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a portion of a circular knitting machine transported with a polyester bicomponent filament transport device and a spandex yarn transport device in the production of different non-limiting fabric embodiments of the present invention; FIG. 1 is another schematic diagram of a portion of a circular knitting machine transported with a polyester bicomponent filament feeder and a spandex yarn transport device in the production of a non-limiting fabric embodiment of the present invention; FIG. In this embodiment, polyester bicomponent filaments and spandex yarn are conveyed to knitting needles and combined together. 1 is a schematic illustration of a non-limiting embodiment of a fabric of the present invention showing a 1×1 rib knit stitch comprising elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments; FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a non-limiting embodiment of a double knitted fabric made according to the present invention; FIG. FIG. 2 is a schematic illustration of a spaced-apart fabric with a polyester bicomponent filament in the center. 1 is a flowchart illustrating non-limiting examples of finishing process steps that may be used on circular knit fabrics having two elastic yarns prepared in accordance with the present invention.

Provided by the present disclosure are stretch circular knit fabrics containing two different sets of elastic fibers with improved anti-see-through power, high holding power, and recovery power, and methods for their manufacture. .

The elastic circular knit fabric of the present invention comprises elastomeric elastic fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments, and optionally hard yarns. The fabrics of the present invention are manufactured by knitting together two different sets of elastic fibers and optionally hard yarns in various embodiments by various methods.

The first set of fibers used in the fabric of the present invention includes elastomeric fibers.

As used herein, "elastomeric fiber" or "elastomeric elastic fiber" refers to any diluent-free, continuous filament or filaments that have an elongation at break greater than 100% independent of any crimp. means. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fibers include interwoven multifilaments. When an elastomeric fiber is (1) stretched to twice its length, (2) held for 1 minute, and (3) released, it returns to 1.0% of its original length within 1 minute of being released. Shrink less than 5 times. As used herein, "elastomeric fiber" or "elastomeric elastic fiber" means at least one elastomeric fiber or filament. Examples of elastomeric fibers useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, rubber filaments, bicomponent filaments and elastoesters, lastol, and spandex.

"Spandex" is a man-made filament in which the filament-forming material is a long chain synthetic polymer consisting of at least 85% by weight of segmented polyurethane.

An "elastoester" is a man-made filament in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain synthetic polymer consisting of at least 50% by weight aliphatic polyether and at least 35% by weight polyester.

A "bicomponent filament" is a continuous filament comprising at least two polymers adhered to each other along the length of the filament, each polymer having a different general classification, e.g. an elastic polyetheramide core and lobes or wings. It is in a polyamide sheath with.

"Lastol" is a crosslinked synthetic polymer fiber with a low but significant degree of crystallinity, consisting of at least 95% by weight ethylene and at least one other olefin unit. This fiber is resilient and substantially heat resistant.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastic fibers include elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex comprises spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex.

Non-limiting examples of spandex useful in the present invention include Lycra® (registered trademark of Invista S.a.r.l.) types 162, 169, 275, and 562.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fiber has a denier of 10 denier to 450 denier.

The second set of fibers used in the fabric of the present invention includes polyester bicomponent filaments.

A "polyester bicomponent filament" is a continuous filament consisting of two polymers of different chemical or physical properties, extruded from the same spinneret with both polymers within the same filament. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament comprises poly(trimethylene terephthalate) (PTT) and poly(ethylene terephthalate) having a post-heat set crimp shrinkage value of about 10% to about 80%. (PET), poly(trimethylene terephthalate), and poly(tetramethylene terephthalate), or a combination of such members. These yarns develop additional crimp when exposed to hot and humid conditions.

A non-limiting example of a polyester bicomponent filament useful in the present invention is LYCRA® T400® fiber. LYCRA® T400® fiber is available from Invista, S.A. a. r. L. A commercially available polyester bicomponent filament made by

It is a melt-spun parallel multicomponent filament of PTT/PET prepared by a conjugated fiber spinning process. LYCRA® T400® fibers are characterized by (1) an asymmetric distribution of the two components within the fiber cross-section, and (2) shrinkage rates between PTT and PET when the fibers are heat treated. The difference causes crimp. The off-package crimp is about 1/3 of the total crimp onside fabric. Most of the remaining crimp occurs in hot, moist environments such as fabric dyeing and finishing processes.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the bicomponent filament denier is about 10 to about 450.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the fabric includes 100% elastic yarns and there are no hard fibers inside the knitted fabric.

The elastomeric fiber content of circular knit fabrics having two elastic yarns is about 3% or more, including about 8% to about 35% and about 10% to about 30%, based on the weight of the fabric. The polyester bicomponent filament content in the fabric may be about 5% by weight or more, including from about 10% to about 60%, based on the total weight of the fabric.

In another non-limiting embodiment of the invention, the fabric further includes rigid yarns.

As used herein, "rigid yarn" refers to yarns that do not contain significant amounts of elastic stretch, such as, but not limited to, cotton, wool, cellulosic fibers, polyester filaments, and nylon filaments. Textured polyester and nylon filaments are preferred. These hard yarns offer the opportunity to add special functionality to fabrics. For example, polyester and nylon filaments increase the toughness and wrinkle resistance of cotton fabrics. Cotton and wool yarns increase the moisture content of synthetic fabrics. Specialty threads may also be introduced. For example, Coolmax® fibers, which help absorb moisture from the body and quickly deliver it to the outside, or conductive fibers, which conduct electricity, may be used. Fibers with antibiotics and microcapsules can also be used to provide body care, freshness, and easy care properties to the fabric. Fibers with high thermal performance can also be used, such as THERMOLITE® fibers that increase thermal resistance and insulation, and THERMOLITE® IR fibers that generate heat under infrared light. Soft hand fibers such as microdenier polyester and cotton-like hand Supplex® nylon fibers may be employed to improve the feel and appearance of the fabric.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10 to 900 decitex.

In one non-limiting embodiment of the invention, hard yarns are incorporated into the fabric via pre-covered elastic yarns or pre-covered yarns.

"Pre-coated elastic yarn" or "pre-coated yarn" as used herein is one that is surrounded by, twisted with, or mixed with hard yarn prior to the core spinning process. . The hard yarn coating helps protect the elastomeric fibers from abrasion during the weaving process. Such abrasion can result in breakage of the elastomeric fibers, with consequent process interruptions and undesirable fabric non-uniformities. Additionally, the coating helps stabilize the elastic behavior of the elastic fibers so that the elongation of pre-coated elastic yarns can be more uniformly controlled during the weaving process than is possible with elastic bare fibers. Pre-coated yarns can also increase the tensile modulus of the yarn and fabric, which helps improve fabric recovery and dimensional stability.

Non-limiting examples of pre-covered yarns include (a) single wraps of elastomeric fibers with rigid yarns, (b) double wraps of elastomeric fibers with rigid yarns, (c) continuous wraps of elastomeric fibers with staple fibers. (i.e., corespun or corespinning) followed by twisting during winding; (d) mixing and intertwining the elastomer and the rigid yarn with an air jet; and (e) twisting the elastomer fibers and the rigid yarn. can be mentioned.

The fabric of the present invention, comprising two sets of elastic fibers, an elastomeric elastic fiber and a polyester bicomponent filament, and optionally a rigid yarn, can be produced by circular knitting.

As used herein, the term "circular knitting" refers to a form of flat knitting in which the knitting needles are knitted into a circular knitting bed. Generally, a cylinder rotates and interacts with a cam to reciprocate the needles for a knitting operation. The yarn to be knitted is conveyed from the package to a carrier plate that directs the twisted yarn to the needles. The circular knitted fabric comes out of the knitting needles in a tubular shape through the center of the cylinder. Seamless knitting machines and flat knitting machines are also included in the invention.

Circular knitting, flat knitting, and Santoni seamless looms can all be used to make these circular knitted fabrics containing two different sets of elastic yarns with high stitch-forming accuracy. When a Santoni seamless machine is used, two different sets of elastic yarn drafts and draft ratios can be used for different parts of the garment. The garment enhances the body's skeleton by using two elastic threads with graduated compression. The Santoni seamless loom has the ability to produce panels shaped with two elastic threads. A variety of fabric structures and garments can be manufactured in various diameters on circular knitting machines. Knit structures including, but not limited to, tucks, floats, and false ribs, stitch lengths, and structural imbalances are used to modify the shape of the tube.

Various embodiments of the fabrics of the invention may be manufactured.

In one non-limiting embodiment, two different sets of elastic fibers are knitted together to form a single layer circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex comprises spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex. In this non-limiting embodiment, the knitted fabric includes 100% elastic yarns and there are no hard fibers inside the knitted fabric.

In another non-limiting embodiment, the fabric further includes rigid fibers. In this non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric fibers may be elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fiber yarn has a count of 10 to 900 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

In another non-limiting embodiment of the invention, two sets of elastic and rigid fibers with different properties are knitted together to form a double layer circular knitted fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the hard fibers have a yarn count of 10-900 decitex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex.

In yet another non-limiting embodiment of the method of the invention, two sets of elastic and rigid fibers with different properties are knitted together to form a double layer spaced circular knit fabric. In this non-limiting embodiment, one set of elastic fibers includes polyester bicomponent filaments and a second set of elastic fibers includes elastomeric bare yarns. In one non-limiting embodiment, the elastomeric bare yarn comprises an elastomeric bare yarn that includes spandex. In one non-limiting embodiment, the spandex is bare spandex yarn having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. In this non-limiting embodiment, polyester bicomponent filaments are placed in the center of the spacer fabric as cushioning threads.

Non-limiting fabric embodiments of the invention and methods for their manufacture are shown in FIGS. 1-7.

For example, FIG. 1 provides a schematic illustration of a non-limiting embodiment of a circular knit fabric having two sets of elastic yarns, the first set being elastomeric yarns 12 and the second set being polyester bicomponent yarns 12. This is filament 18. The elastic yarn is plated with a hard yarn 14. In jersey knit construction on circular knitting machines, the process of co-knitting elastic fibers is called "plating". In plating, a hard yarn 14 and two sets of elastomeric yarns 12 and 18 are knitted parallel to each other, with the elastic yarn always kept on one side of the hard yarn and thus on one side of the knitted fabric. . FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a stitch 10 of a plated knit, where the knitted yarns include elastomeric yarns 12, polyester bicomponent filaments 18, and rigid yarns 14.

FIG. 2 shows a transport position 20 of a circular knitting machine having knitting needles reciprocating as indicated by arrow 24 in response to a cam (not shown) below a rotating cylinder (not shown) holding a series of knitting needles 22. FIG. 2 schematically shows a non-limiting example. In circular knitting machines, there is a plurality of these transport positions arranged in a circular manner so that the knitting needles carried by the moving cylinder transport the individual knitting positions as they are rotated past the positions. The apparatus shown in FIG. 2 can be used to produce knitted fabrics with double elastic yarns, where the two elastic yarns and one hard yarn have the same stitch pattern. In a non-limiting embodiment, three threads are knitted together in the same path. In one non-limiting embodiment, the device and yarn are used to create a single jersey structure as shown in FIG.

As shown in FIG. 2, during a plating operation, elastomeric yarn 12, polyester bicomponent filament 18, and rigid yarn 14 are fed to knitting needles 22 by carrier plate 26. The carrier plate 26 simultaneously directs all three threads to the knitting position. Elastomeric yarn 12, polyester bicomponent filament 18, and rigid yarn 14 are introduced onto knitting needles 22 to form single jersey knit stitch 10 as shown in FIG.

In this non-limiting embodiment, hard yarn 14 is fed from wound yarn package 28 to an accumulator 30 that dispenses yarn to carrier plate 26 and knitting needles 22 . The hard yarn 14 passes over the transport roll 32 and passes through the guide hole 34 in the carrier plate 26 . Optionally, two or more hard yarns may be fed to the knitting needles via different guide holes in the carrier plate 26.

The polyester bicomponent filament 18 is fed from the wound yarn package 60 to an accumulator 64 that meters the yarn to the carrier plate 26 and the knitting needles 22. The polyester bicomponent filament 18 passes over the transport roll 66 and through the guide hole 34 of the carrier plate 26 .

Elastomeric yarn 12 is routed from surface drive package 36 past break edge detector 39 and redirection roll(s) 37 to guide slot 38 in carrier plate 26 . The transport tension of the elastomeric yarn 12 is measured between the detector 39 and the drive roll 37, or between the surface drive package 36 and the roll 37 if a broken edge detector is not used. Guide holes 34 and guide slots 38 are arranged in carrier plate 26 such that hard yarn 14, polyester bicomponent filament 18, and elastomeric yarn 12 lie substantially parallel next to knitting needles 22 (plated). are separated from each other.

Elastic yarns, also referred to herein as drafts, are blown as they are fed from the supply package to the carrier plate and then to the stitches of the knit due to the difference between the stitch utilization and the conveying speed from the elastic yarn supply package. Stretch.

"Draft" refers to the amount of stretch applied to the elastomeric yarn. The draft of a fiber is directly related to the elongation (stretching) applied to the fiber (e.g., 100% elongation corresponds to 2 times the draft, 200% elongation corresponds to 3 times the draft ,Such).

The ratio of hard yarn feed rate (meters/min) to elastomeric yarn feed rate is typically 1.5 to 4 times greater (1.5 to 4 times) and is known as mechanical draft. This corresponds to an elongation of the elastomer yarn of 50% to 300% or more. The transport tension of the elastomeric yarn is directly related to the draft of the elastomeric yarn. This conveyance tension is typically maintained at a value consistent with the high machine draft of the elastomeric yarn. In the present invention, improved results are obtained when the total elastomeric yarn draft measured in the fabric is maintained at about 5 times or less, typically 3 times or less, e.g. 2.5 times or less. Ta. This draft value is the total draft of the elastomeric yarn and includes any stretching or elongation of the elastomeric yarn contained in the as-spun yarn supply package. The value of residual draft from an elastomeric yarn is called the package relaxation, "PR," and it typically ranges from 0.05 to 0.05 for elastomeric yarns used in circular knit, elastic, single jersey fabrics. The range is 15. Therefore, the total draft of elastomeric yarn in the fabric is MD*(1+PR), where "MD" is the knitting machine draft. Knitting machine draft is the ratio of the rigid yarn feed rate to the elastomeric yarn rate, both from their respective feed packages. Due to its stress-strain properties, an elastomeric yarn stretches more as the tension applied to it increases, and conversely, the more the elastomeric yarn is stretched, the higher the tension in the yarn.

A typical elastomeric yarn path in a circular knitting machine is shown schematically in FIG. The elastomeric yarn 12 is routed from the supply package 36 past or through a broken edge detector 39 and over one or more redirection rolls 37, which then transport the elastomeric yarn to the knitting needles 22 and into the stitches. and is metered onto a carrier plate 26 which leads to the same. Due to the frictional forces exerted by each device or roller that contacts the elastic yarn, there is a build-up of tension in the elastic yarn as it passes from the supply package through each device or roller. The total draft of the elastomeric yarn in a stitch is therefore related to the sum of the tensions over the elastomeric yarn path. The elastomeric yarn transport tension is measured between the break edge detector 39 and the roll 37 shown in FIG. Alternatively, elastomeric yarn transport tension is measured between surface drive package 36 and roll 37 if break edge detector 39 is not used. The higher this tension is set and controlled, the greater the draft of the elastomeric yarn will be in the fabric, and vice versa. For example, this conveying tension can range from 2 to 4 cN for a 22 dtex elastomeric yarn and from 4 to 6 cN for a 44 dtex elastomeric yarn on a commercial circular knitting machine. With these conveyance tension settings and the additional tension imparted by subsequent yarn-path friction, elastomeric yarns in commercial knitting machines are stretched well over three times. Minimizing the elastomeric yarn friction between the supply package and the knit stitch keeps the elastomeric yarn conveying tension high enough for reliable elastomeric yarn conveying when the elastomeric yarn draft is less than 7 times. to assist. To ensure reliable transport of the elastomeric yarn from the supply package to the knit stitches, the draft of the elastomeric yarn is typically no more than 3 times.

The polyester bicomponent filament 18 is also stretched or elongated before it enters the knitting needles 22. The yarn is stretched through the speed difference between the accumulator 64 and the carrier plate 26 and then the stitches of the knit. The ratio of stitch usage rate to accumulator 64 conveyance rate (meters/minute) is typically about 1.01 to 1.35 times (1.01 to 1.35 times). Adjusting the speed of accumulator 64 provides the desired draft or stretch ratio. If the stretch ratio is too small, it will result in a poor quality fabric with graininess. Too high a stretch ratio results in breakage of the polyester bicomponent filament.

"Eye-muki" is a term used to describe the visible exposure of elastic threads in the fabric. Eye puffiness can appear as an unwanted shine. If you have to choose, a low bulge on the front is preferable to a low bulge on the back.

FIG. 3 provides a schematic diagram of an alternative conveying system for the production of the fabric of the present invention. In this non-limiting embodiment, polyester bicomponent filament 18 is fed from a wound yarn package 60 to an accumulator 64 that dispenses yarn to carrier plate 26 and knitting needles 22 . The polyester bicomponent filament 18 passes over the transport roll 66 and through the guide hole 34 of the carrier plate 26 . Elastomeric yarn 12 is fed from surface drive package 36, past a broken edge detector 39 and redirection roll(s) 37, and into a guide slot 38 in carrier plate 26. The guide holes 34 and the guide slots 38 are separated from each other in the carrier plate 26 such that the polyester bicomponent filament 18 and the elastomer yarn 12 lie next to the knitting needles 22 and substantially parallel.

In this embodiment, the hard yarn 14 is conveyed to the machine by a separate carrier plate and separate knitting needles. In this way it is possible to create fabrics with hard yarns only in selected courses. In other courses, only two elastic threads are present. This embodiment provides more opportunities to create a variety of circular knit fabrics. It is not essential that all three threads be present in the fabric in every course.

FIG. 4 provides a schematic illustration of yet another alternative conveying system for manufacturing the fabric of the present invention. In this non-limiting embodiment, both the polyester bicomponent filament 18 and the elastomeric yarn 12 are coalesced directly on the knitting needles without prior coalescence on the carrier plate 26. This embodiment provides additional flexibility for knit designers to develop fabrics of different styles and different patterns, such as, but not limited to, Santoni seamless machines.

As shown in FIG. 5, two sets of elastic yarns can also be used to produce elastic circular knit fabrics used in the production of stretch cloth ribbed fabrics. FIG. 5 shows a diagram of such a fabric made from elastomeric fibers 12 and polyester bicomponent filaments 18. The ribbed fabric 40 is produced on two needle beds with the needles staggered. The loops are pulled in opposite directions so that front and back loops alternate in each course. Both sides of the fabric show only the front loops. The back loops are exposed only when the fabric is stretched widthwise. Ribbed fabrics with two elastic fibers are highly stretchable in the width direction and are flat without curling. They could be used for pullovers, vests, socks, underwear, and collars.

Also, as shown in FIG. 6, two sets of elastic yarns can be used to make a double layer knitted fabric made on a circular knitting machine with two needle beds. Figure 6 shows a diagram of such a fabric. Double knitted fabric 82 includes a first layer surface I84 and a second layer surface II86, which layers are secured to each other by a series of connecting threads 88. Interlock yarns maintain the fabric layers in a spaced relationship with respect to each other.

Furthermore, as shown in FIG. 7, two sets of elastic yarns can be used to make a double layer spaced knit fabric. FIG. 7 shows such a fabric structure 94. A polyester bicomponent filament, such as LYCRA® T400® fiber 96, is inserted between the two layers 84 and 86 of fabric 94 as a cushion yarn. Under heat and high temperature conditions during the fabric finishing process, the polyester bicomponent filaments coil and expand through the thickness of the fabric. These create fabrics that have elasticity/cushioning properties in all directions. Polyester bicomponent filaments also create fabrics with more space between the two layers, resulting in higher insulation. Interlock yarns 88 and polyester bicomponent cushion yarns 96 maintain the fabric layers in spaced relation to each other.

Additional exemplary steps for finishing elastic circular knit fabrics made in accordance with the present invention are outlined in FIG. After the fabric 42 is knitted, mostly in the form of a tube, it is collected under the knitting machine as a rotating mandrel, as a flat tube, or in a box after it is loosely folded back and forth. For open width finishing, the braided tube is then opened with slits 44 and laid flat. Subsequently, the opened fabric is relaxed 46 by subjecting it to steam or by wetting it by dipping and squeezing, also referred to as padding. The relaxed dough is then applied to a tenter frame and heated 46 in an oven for heat setting. The tenter frame holds the fabric at the edges with pin fabrics and stretches it both lengthwise and widthwise to return the fabric to the desired dimensions and basis weight. If damp, let the fabric dry first. Heat curing is then performed before subsequent wet processing steps. As a result, thermal curing is often also referred to as "pre-curing." At the exit of the oven, the flat fabric is released from the stretcher and then fastened, also referred to as stitching, 48 back to its tubular shape. The fabric is then processed into tubular form through a wet process 50 of washing, scouring and optional bleaching/dying, e.g. by a soft flow jet device, and then dewatered, e.g. by squeeze rolls or in a centrifuge. 52. The fabric is then peeled 54 by removing the sewing thread and reopening the fabric into a flat sheet. The flat, still damp fabric is then subjected to a process of fabric overfeeding, which is the opposite of stretching, so that the fabric is not under tension in the lengthwise or machine direction while being dried at a temperature below the thermosetting temperature. Dry in a tenter frame oven under conditions 56. The fabric is stretched slightly across the width to smooth out any potential wrinkles. Optional fabric finishes, such as fabric softeners, may be applied immediately prior to drying operation 56. In some cases, the finish is applied after the fabric is first dried by a belt or tenter frame oven so that the finish is evenly incorporated by the evenly dried fibers. This additional step involves rewetting the dried fabric with a finish and then drying the fabric again in a tenter frame oven.

Single layer knitted fabrics formed by knitting together elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments according to the present invention exhibit a combination of good stretch, good recovery, pleasant hand feel, and good appearance. Elastomeric fibers provide the fabric with high stretch levels that allow it to stretch easily and provide comfort to the wearer. In contrast to elastic yarns, polyester bicomponent filaments have a high elongation rate. Under the same loading force, polyester bicomponent filaments do not stretch as much as elastic yarns, thus restraining the stretching of the fabric and preventing it from stretching too much. Polyester bicomponent filaments also have higher resilience than elastomeric bare fibers. As a result, the circular knitted fabric of the present invention with two different sets of elastic fibers provides a soft hand, easy movement, high flexibility, high elongation modularity, and good shape retention. Polyester bicomponent filaments provide fabrics with high recovery and low fabric growth, while elastomeric yarns with low modulus provide fabrics with easy elongation and low shrinkage, easy elongation, high retention , and results in a fabric with high dimensional stability.

The inventors herein also show that circular knit fabrics with two different sets of elastic fibers can be made with flat surfaces, reducing the uneven appearance and shine resulting from polyester binary components. I found out. In knitted fabrics containing only polyester bicomponent fibers as the seed force for elongation without elastomeric fibers, the bicomponent fibers produce a high frequency spatial helical crimp shape similar to the appearance of telephone wire. These crimps provide very good stretch and wrinkle recovery and capacity to yarns and fabrics. However, these crimps result in a severely uneven appearance that hinders the penetration of the polyester bicomponent in knit applications. The inventors herein have found that the non-uniformity of polyester bicomponent crimp is significantly improved by adding elastomeric fibers to the fabric. The fabric of the invention exhibits a flat surface and a softer feel.

In one non-limiting embodiment of manufacturing the fabric of the invention, two elastic fibers are stretched to different drafts of their original length during the knitting process. The draft of the elastomeric fibers can be selected from 1.8 times to 5.0 times, while the draft of the polyester bicomponent filaments can be selected from 1.01 times to 1.35 times. For two elastic fibers with different deniers or different filament counts, the stretch ratios of the polyester bicomponent filaments and elastomer fines can differ from each other depending on the desired elastic fiber performance and fabric quality requirements. Elastomeric fibers are often stretched more to provide high stretch performance, while polyester bicomponent filaments are stretched less to provide fabrics with low shrinkage and high recovery.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the two sets of elastic fibers not only have different polymer compositions, but also different stress-strain behavior and different thermal behavior. For example, in one non-limiting embodiment, the fabric may include spandex fibers of LYCRA® fiber T162B as the elastomeric yarn and LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent filament as the polyester bicomponent filament. good. In another non-limiting embodiment, the two sets of elastic yarns have different heat setting efficiencies, e.g.
Heat curing of LYCRA® T400® fibers at 380
The T162B LYCRA® fibers may be thermally cured. In this non-limiting embodiment, the fabric is heat cured at a temperature above the heat set temperature of the LYCRA® T400® fibers, but below the heat set temperature of the LYCRA® fibers T162B. When used, the fabric only obtains a partial heat set which provides acceptable fabric shrinkage and good elongation and growth.

Another advantage of the fabrics of the invention is that polyester bicomponent filaments have better resistance to chemical and/or environmental elements than elastomeric fibers such as spandex. For example, polyester bicomponent filaments have better resistance to both chlorine and ultraviolet light compared to spandex. As a result, the fabrics of the present invention exhibit high performance as swimwear in chlorine-containing pools and other outdoor activewear exposed to ultraviolet light.

In some embodiments of the invention, the fabric consists only of elastic fibers containing both elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments. Due to the absence of hard fibers in this embodiment, the fabric exhibits excellent flexibility and superior resilience. This fabric embodiment also has high breathability and is lightweight. This fabric embodiment is therefore ideal for garments that require high retention, full recovery, and breathability, such as, but not limited to, bra wings, intimate body shaping wear, and sportswear. It is.

The method of the present invention has been found to be particularly useful for producing single layer jersey fabrics having a high quality terry jersey fabric structure. Terry jersey or float jersey is a knitted fabric that features a float stitch or soft pile yarn on one side of the fabric, resulting in a highly absorbent, moisture-wicking material. Some types of float jersey fabrics are heavier than T-shirts but lighter than most sweatshirts and have considerable stretch, thus making them very comfortable to wear. Other types of float jersey fabrics have a flat and clean appearance on both sides of the fabric with strong resilience. Terry jersey fabrics typically have higher stretch and higher recovery than single jersey fabrics in all directions.

Terry jersey fabrics can be knitted according to the invention by using two sets of different elastomeric yarns arranged alternately in the wale direction. The first set of yarns, called loop yarns, are knitted as a single jersey in each row. A second set of yarns, referred to as float yarns, are knitted with float loops and interlocked together with the first set of loop yarns. The float yarn may float over various ridges, such as one ridge, two ridges, or more ridges. For the fabrics of the present invention, either elastomeric fibers or polyester bicomponent filaments can be used in either the loop yarn or the float yarn, or they can be used together in both the loop yarn and the float yarn. . In one non-limiting embodiment, rigid yarns may also be incorporated into the loop and/or float yarns. The elastic fibers used in the present invention are more easily stretched and have higher resilience in a float loop structure with flat fiber sections.

The fabrics of some embodiments of the invention exhibit elongation in the wale and/or course directions of about 20% to about 200%. Further, such fabrics may have a shrinkage of about 15% or less during washing, such as, for example, less than 7% in both the length and width directions. The fabric may have a weight of 100 grams to 600 grams per square meter. Additionally, the stretch fabric may have a superior hand feel.

The present invention also relates to garments prepared from the fabrics described herein. These fabric characteristics make them particularly useful in casual and leisure wear garments, but seamless fabrics containing two different sets of two elastic threads are also useful in outerwear. Additionally, the ability to change the denier and knitting pattern of elastic yarns makes such fabrics useful in specific areas of many garments. For example, fabrics of the invention containing heavier denier and higher draft elastomeric yarns can be applied to garments to have better holding power in certain critical areas such as the knees, inner thighs, and full panel of pants. and thus can produce garments with higher shaping capabilities and higher strain forces. In other parts, fabrics of the invention with less stretch and distortion may be used, thus providing better comfort. As a result, the fabrics of the present invention are particularly useful in producing all types of premium comfort garments with spot shaping capabilities in critical areas. Non-limiting examples of clothing that can be made from the fabrics of the present invention include sportswear, activewear, swimwear, bras, underwear, underwear, leggings, outwear, and shoe fabrics.

The next section provides further description of fabrics and methods for their manufacture. The examples are illustrative only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way.

Analytical Methods Recoverable Elongation of Yarns The recoverable elongation of the elastic fibers used in the examples was determined according to ASTM D6720-07. Each yarn sample was formed into a skein of 5000±5 total denier (5550 dtex) using a skein reel at a tension of approximately 0.1 gpd (0.09 dN/tex). The skein was then immersed in water for 15 minutes at 100°C, after which the skein was removed from the water. The skein is then allowed to air dry for a minimum of 16 hours.
(21°±1°C) and a relative humidity of 65% (±2%).

The skein was suspended almost vertically from a stand. After 3 cycles with a hanging weight of 1030 grams, a 1030 grams weight (206 mg/d; 185.4 mg/dtex) was suspended from the bottom of the skein, the length of the skein was measured to be within 1 mm, and "L ₁ " was recorded. Next, a weight of 6 mg/den (5.4 mg/dtex) (for example, 30 grams for a 5550 dtex skein) is suspended at the bottom of the skein, the weighted skein is brought to an equilibrium length, and the skein length is The length was measured to within 1 mm and recorded as "L _2" . The recoverable stretch (percentage) of the yarn, "CC _a ", was calculated according to the formula CC _a (%) = 100 x (L ₁ - L ₂ )/L ₂ .

Elastic Yarn Draft The following procedure was used to measure the elastic yarn draft in the examples. A yarn sample of 200 stitches (needle) or more was knitted or unraveled from a single course with the beginning and end of the 200 stitches marked to separate the elastic and hard yarns of the sample.

Each sample (elastic thread or hard thread) was then freely suspended by attaching one end onto a ruler with one mark on the top of a 1 meter ruler. Weights were attached to each sample (0.1 g/denier for hard yarn and 0.001 g/denier for spandex). The weight was lowered gradually, allowing the weight to be applied to the end of the yarn sample without impacting it. The length measured between the marks was then recorded. The measurements were repeated using five samples each of elastic and rigid yarns. The average draft was then calculated according to the following formula: draft = (length of rigid thread between marks) ÷ (length of elastic thread between marks).

Elastomeric fiber content The knitted fabric was weighed and then manually unwoven. The elastomeric fibers were separated from the attached rigid yarn and weighed on a precision laboratory balance or torsion balance. The content of elastomeric fibers is expressed as a percentage of elastomer weight to fabric weight.

Fabric elongation (stretching)
The fabrics were evaluated for % elongation under a specific load (i.e., force) in the direction of fabric stretch, which is the direction of the composite yarns (i.e., weft, warp, or weft and warp). Three samples measuring 60 cm x 6.5 cm were cut from the fabric. The long dimension (60 cm) corresponds to the stretching direction. The sample was partially unraveled to reduce the sample width to 5.0 cm. The samples were then conditioned at 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% relative humidity for at least 16 hours.

A first benchmark was made across the width of each sample, 6.5 cm from the edge of the sample. A second benchmark was created across the width of the sample 50.0 cm from the first benchmark. The excess fabric from the second benchmark to the other end of the sample was used to sew to form a loop into which a metal pin could be inserted. A notch was then cut into the loop so that the weight could be attached to the metal pin.

The non-looped end of the sample was secured and the fabric sample was hung vertically. A 17.8 Newton (N) weight (4LB) was attached to the metal pin via the hanging fabric loop so that the fabric sample was stretched by the weight. The sample was "exercised" by allowing it to be stretched by a weight for 3 seconds. The force was then manually relieved by lifting the weight. This cycle was repeated three times. The weight was then allowed to hang freely, thus stretching the fabric sample. The distance in millimeters between the two benchmarks was measured while the fabric was under load. Let this distance be ML. The original distance (ie, unstretched distance) between benchmarks was taken as GL. The percent fabric elongation for each individual sample was calculated as follows.
Elongation rate % (E%) = ((ML-GL)/GL) x 100

The three elongation results were averaged for the final result.

Fabric growth (stretching without recovery)
After stretching, the fabric without growth recovers exactly to its original length before stretching. However, typically stretch fabrics will not fully recover and will lengthen slightly after prolonged stretching. This slight increase in length is called "growth."

The fabric elongation test described above must be completed before the growth test. Only the stretching direction of the fabric was tested. For bidirectional stretch fabrics, both directions were tested. Three samples, each 55.0 cm x 6.0 cm, were cut from the fabric. These were different samples than those used in the elongation tests. The 55.0 cm direction should correspond to the elongation direction. The sample was partially unraveled to reduce the sample width to 5.0 cm. The samples were conditioned at temperature and humidity as in the elongation test described above. Two benchmarks exactly 50 cm apart were placed across the width of the sample.

The known % elongation (E%) from the elongation test was used to calculate the length of the sample at 80% of this known elongation. This is calculated as follows,
E (length) at 80% = (E%/100) x 0.80 x L,

where L was the original length between benchmarks (ie, 50.0 cm). Both ends of the sample were fixed and the sample was stretched until the length between the benchmarks was equal to L+E (length) as calculated above. This stretch was maintained for 30 minutes, after which the stretch force was released and the sample was allowed to hang freely and relax. After 60 minutes, the growth rate % was measured as follows,
Growth rate %=(L2×100)/L,

where L2 was the increase in length between sample benchmarks after relaxation and L was the original length between benchmarks. This % growth rate was measured for each sample and the results were averaged to determine the growth number.

Fabric Recovery Fabric recovery means that the fabric can recover to its original length after deformation from elongation or tensile stress. It is expressed as the ratio of the increased stretched length of the fabric being stretched to the length of the fabric after elongation or release of tensile stress. It can be calculated from fabric stretch and fabric growth.

Fabric Shrinkage Fabric shrinkage after washing was measured. The fabric was first conditioned at temperature and humidity as in the elongation and growth tests. Two samples (60 cm x 60 cm) were then cut from the fabric. Samples were taken at least 15 cm away from the ear. A four-sided box measuring 40 cm x 40 cm was marked on the fabric sample.

The sample was washed in a washing machine along with the sample and filling fabric. The total load of the washer was 2 kg of air-dried material, with less than half of the load consisting of test samples. The laundry was gently washed and dehydrated at a water temperature of 40°C. Depending on the water hardness, detergent amounts of 1 g/l to 3 g/l were used. The samples were placed on a flat surface until dry and then they were conditioned for 16 hours at 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% relative humidity.

The shrinkage of the fabric samples in the warp and fill directions was then measured by measuring the distance between the markings. The shrinkage rate C% after washing is calculated as follows,
C%=((L1-L2)/L1)×100,

where L1 is the original distance between the markings (40 cm) and L2 is the distance after drying. Results were averaged for the sample and reported for both the fill and warp directions. Negative contraction numbers reflect expansion, which was possible in some cases due to the behavior of the rigid threads.

Fabric Weight A knitted fabric sample was punched out using a die with a diameter of 10 cm. Each cut out knitted fabric sample was weighed in grams. The "fabric weight" was then calculated as grams per square meter.

Final Resilience The fabric was cut to 3 x 8 inches. Benchmark "A" was marked 1 inch from one edge of each specimen by using a fabric marking pen. Benchmark "B" was placed 6 inches from benchmark "A" to obtain two benchmarks 6 inches apart. The fabric specimen was then sewn into a loop by folding the two short edges together so that the benchmarks were lined up and a straight seam was sewn across the marks. Then test loop 70
temperature and 65% relative humidity for at least 16 hours. The specimens were exercised in an Instron machine by stretching and releasing at 200% per minute to a 75% elongation for 3 cycles. The fabric unloading force at 30% elongation in the third cycle was recorded as the fabric recovery force. Fabric resilience represents the resilience of the fabric while wearing the garment.

The following non-limiting examples demonstrate the present invention and its ability to be used in manufacturing various fabrics. The invention is capable of other different embodiments and its several details may be modified in various obvious respects without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention. As a result, the examples are to be regarded as illustrative in nature, rather than as restrictive.

A 28 gauge single layer circular knit fabric with two elastic yarns plated with hard yarns for an example has a cylinder diameter of 26 inches, a 28 gauge (needles per inch of circumference), and It was knitted on a Monarch Circular Knitting Machine, model VX-RDS, with 2232 needles and 42 transport positions. The circular knitting machine was operated at 16 revolutions per minute (rpm). A 44 gauge single layer circular knit fabric was knitted on a Monarch Circular Knitting Machine, model VX-3S, 30 inch diameter, 4152 needles, 90 feeder, and approximately 20 RPM.

The double layer circular knitted fabric was made on a Terrot Circular Knitting Machine, model RH-216I, 18 inch cylinder diameter, 24 gauge needles per inch of cylinder circumference. There are 24 needles per inch on the dial, technically making it 48 gauge, but it's called a 24, with 1356 needles on the cylinder, 1356 needles on the dial, and 30 feeders. There is approximately 18 RPM.

Elastomeric fiber transport tension was measured between elastomeric fiber supply package 36 and roller guide 37 (FIG. 2) using an Iro Memminger digital tensiometer, model number MER2. For the following examples, elastomer fiber delivery tension was maintained at 4 and 7 grams for 40 and 70 denier spandex. These tensions are sufficient to reliably and continuously convey this elastomeric yarn of spandex to the knitting needles. If the conveying tension is too low, the spandex yarn will wrap around the roller guide in the supply package and cannot be reliably conveyed to the circular knitting machine. The tensioning device for the polyester bicomponent filament yarn and hard yarn was an IRO Memminger, model MPF40 KIF. The tension on the polyester bicomponent filament was about 8-9 grams. The tension on the hard yarn was approximately 6-7 grams.

An example of the seamless fabric of the present invention produced by circular knitting using a 28-inch SMA-8-TOP seamless knitting machine (hereinafter referred to as "SANTONI knitting machine") manufactured by SANTONI (GRUPPO LONATI, Italy). A combination of different knitting structures using different types of yarn was used. The machine has eight thread transport positions. It operated at 70 revolutions per minute (rpm). Elastomer fiber transport tension was measured with a BTSR® digital tensiometer, model number KTF-100HP. For the following examples, the elastomer delivery tension was maintained at 1 gram for each 10 denier spandex. The tensioning device for the polyester bicomponent filament yarn and hard yarn was an IRO Memminger model ROJ Tricot.

The knitted fabric was preheated, scoured, dyed and dried. For seamless fabrics, the fabric has undergone a finishing process without heat curing. The fabric was scoured and bleached in 100 liters of solution at 100° C. for 30 minutes. All wet jet finishing and dyeing was done on a Thies horizontal jet dyer with soft flowers. The dough was incubated at 49°C for 5 minutes containing Domoscour LFE810 (13 grams) (scouring and emulsifying agent from M. Dohmen Company), Lurotex A-25 (100 grams) (hydrophilic finishing and softening agent from BASF Cooperation). Preliminary scouring with aqueous solution.

The fabric was dyed using direct dyes and other ingredients at 85°C for 60 minutes. The dye solution contained 85.8 grams of Solophenyl FGE250 (Huntsmen Corp.), 0.5% by weight trisodium phosphate (adjusted pH), and 45,000 grams of common salt. Then 78 grams of Burcofix 195 (color fixative from M. Dohmen Company) and 65 grams of Ultratex MES and 10 grams of acetic acid were added to the dyebath and run at 45° C. for 30 minutes. The bath was drained and the fabric was removed from the container. The fabric was then dried in a tenter (Kenyon Company) oven at 145° C. for approximately 30 seconds.

Table 1 lists the materials and process conditions used to produce fabric samples with elastomer and polyester bicomponent filaments. The elastic yarn used was manufactured by Invista, S.C. of Wilmington, Del. and Wichita, Kan.
r. L. Available from. The column headed Elastic Fiber 40d means 40 denier and 3.3X means the draft of the elastic material (machine draft) imparted by the core spinning machine. In the column headed "Hard Yarn", Example 16 is the linear density of the spun yarn measured on an English Cotton Count System. The remaining entries in Table 1 are clearly labeled.

Comparative Example 1C: Comparative Knitted Fabric with One Spandex A stretchable single jersey circular knitted fabric with only spandex fibers was made on a 28 gauge machine. The fabric was made from 30s spun cotton yarn with 40D LYCRA® spandex fibers. The draft of the LYCRA® fiber was 2.7 times during knitting. 30s cotton yarn was plated with LYCRA® fibers to form a single jersey fabric. This fabric has a very high stretch level of 219.2% in the width direction, but low recovery in both the length and width directions (85.1 grams x 77.6 grams). The fabric was easily stretched but difficult to recover. Such easy deformation and difficult recovery result in garments made from the fabrics exhibiting poor shape-retaining ability and dimensional stability of these garments. Clothing exhibits sagging and bagging during wear. The fabric contained 7.7% LYCRA® fiber and 92.3% cotton.

Example 2: Cotton Jersey Fabric with Two Different Elastic Fibers This sample had the same fabric structure as Example 1C, except for incorporating 50D LYCRA® T400® fibers. The fabric contained two elastic yarns according to the invention, 40D LYCRA® spandex fibers and 50d/34f LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent filaments. The cotton thread was a 50Ne thread. Table 1 summarizes the test results. It is clear that this sample has good elongation (85.3% length x 116.4% width). This fabric also has low shrinkage. The fabric also has improved resilience (205.9% length x 146.2% width). Addition of polyester bicomponent filaments significantly increased the holding power of the jersey fabric, limiting excess stretch in the width direction while increasing recovery in both directions. The fabric demonstrated high dimension stability and strong shape retention ability. The fabric contained 4.6% LYCRA® fiber, 28.0% LYCRA® T400® bicomponent fiber and 67.4% cotton.

Example 3: Single Layer Knit Containing Dual Elastic Fibers This sample has the same fabric structure as Example 2, except for the denier of the LYCRA® T400® fibers, which are 2.7 times Draft 40D T162B LYCRA® fibers and 1.10x draft 75d/34f LYCRA® T400® fibers were used. The hard yarn was a 50Ne 100% cotton ring spun yarn with a single jersey stitch structure. The finished fabric had a weight of 6.1 oz/ ^yd2 and an elongation of 84.5% and 118.3% in the length and width directions, respectively. Fabric recovery was 314.6 grams x 214.6 grams in the length and width directions. As shown, the high denier LYCRA® T400® fibers helped increase fabric recovery in both directions. The fabric contains 7.6% LYCRA® fibers, 37.8% LYCRA® T400® bicomponent fibers, and 54.6% cotton.

Example 4: Single Layer Knit Containing Dual Elastic Fibers This sample has the same fabric structure as Example 2, except for the denier of the LYCRA® fibers, 70D T162B LYCRA® fibers, 2.7X draft, and 1.05X draft for 70D LYCRA® fibers, and 75d/34f LYCRA® T400® fibers were used. The hard yarn was a 50Ne 100% cotton ring spun yarn with a single jersey stitch structure. The finished fabric had a weight of 6.5 oz/ ^yd2 and an elongation of 100.8% and 97.3% in the length and width directions, respectively. Fabric recovery was 290.2 grams x 249.7 grams in the length and width directions. As shown herein, high denier LYCRA® fibers increase fabric recovery in both directions. The fabric contains 14.4% LYCRA® fibers, 26.3% LYCRA® T400® bicomponent fibers, and 59.3% cotton.

Example 5: Single layer jersey fabric with 100% elastic fibers This sample consists of a single layer jersey fabric containing 100% elastic fibers, 40D T275B LYCRA® fibers and 50D/34f LYCRA® T400 (registered trademark) polyester bicomponent fiber. Fabric weight was 4.8 oz/ ^yd2 with 31.4% elastomeric fibers and 68.5% polyester bicomponent fibers. Due to the absence of hard fibers, the fabric exhibits excellent flexibility and superior resilience. The fabric also has high breathability and quick drying properties. It is an ideal material for garments that require high retention, full recovery, and breathability. It is also perfect for swimwear. The polyester binary is chlorine resistant. In pools, the fabric has better anti-chlorine performance than stretch fabrics containing only spandex fibers, which lose their resilience after prolonged exposure to pools containing chlorine-based chemicals. This fabric also has stretch and recovery properties in the bra cup area, even after shaping at high temperatures. This may provide better comfort for the wearer of the bra, especially for sports bras.

Example 6: Single Layer Jersey Fabric with 100% Elastic Fibers This fabric is similar to Example 5 except that the polyester bicomponent filament LYCRA® T400® fibers have a denier of 30D/34f. It had the same fabric structure. The draft of the 40D LYCRA® bare fiber was 1.8X and the draft of the LYCRA® T400® was 1.05X. This fabric used the same stitch structure as in Example 5. Table 1 summarizes the test results. This sample also had good elongation of 105.6% x 122.6% and good fabric recovery of 218.9g x 309.1g. The use of low denier LYCRA® T400® fibers resulted in a lighter weight fabric with a more open structure and soft hand.

Example 7: Single layer terry jersey fabric containing two elastic fibers This sample was a terry jersey fabric with float loops on one side of the single knit fabric. The loop yarns were 50D/34f polyester bicomponent filaments of 40D T275B LYCRA® elastomeric fibers and LYCRA® T400® fibers. The float yarns were 40D T275B LYCRA® elastomeric fibers and 40D textured nylon fibers. The front side of the fabric looked like a typical single jersey, but the back side of the fabric had a float loop skipped one loop. Float loops were formed by knitting loops of loop yarn. The draft of the LYCRA® fiber was 1.8X, while the draft of the LYCRA® T400® fiber was 1.05X. Fabric weight was 6.1 oz/ ^yd2 and fabric stretch was 92.3% x 126.1%. The fabric had a very high recovery strength of 211.7 g x 260.2 g in the length x width directions, respectively. The fabric had good nylon fiber hand and LYCRA® T400® fiber strength performance.

Example 8: Single layer terry jersey fabric containing 100% elastic fibers This sample had float loops on one side of the single knit fabric. Both the loop and float yarns were 50D/34f polyester bicomponent filaments of 40D T275B LYCRA® elastomeric fibers and LYCRA® T400® fibers. The front side of the fabric looked like a typical single jersey, but the back side of the fabric had a float loop skipped one loop. Float loops were formed by knitting loops of loop yarn. The draft of the LYCRA® fiber was 1.8X, while the draft of the LYCRA® T400® fiber was 1.05X. Fabric weight was 5.3 oz/ ^yd2 and fabric stretch was 69.3% x 91.5%. The fabric had a very high recovery strength of 329.7 g x 416.7 g in the length x width directions, respectively.

Example 9: Single layer terry jersey fabric containing 100% elastic fibers This example had the same fabric structure as Example 8. The fabric was made with 42.6% LYCRA® fibers and 57.4% LYCRA® T400® fibers with a terry structure. The difference was that 70D T275Z LYCRA® fibers were used instead of 40D T1275B LYCRA® fibers in both the loop and float yarns. Higher denier LYCRA® fibers ensure higher weight and greater strength of the fabric. This fabric can be used in shaping underwear with strong holding power.

Example 10: 1x1 Rip Fabric with Spandex and Polyester Bicomponent Filaments This sample was a 1x1 rip fabric made from a double knitting machine. 50d/34f LYCRA® T400® fibers and 40D LYCRA® fibers were plated together in each course. Both sides of the fabric have a similar appearance. Compared to jersey fabric, it is thicker and heavier. It can only be solved at one end. The fabric lay flat without curling and exhibited excellent crosswise elasticity. The fabric is particularly useful for underwear and T-shirts. The LYCRA® fiber and LYCRA® T400® fiber content is 23.0% and 77.0% of the inner fabric at a total weight of 7.1 oz/ ^yd2 .

Example 11: 2x2 Rip Fabric with Spandex and Polyester Bicomponent Filaments This sample was a 2x2 rip fabric made from a double knitting machine. 50d/34f LYCRA® T400® fibers and 40D LYCRA® fibers were plated together in each course. Both sides of the fabric have a similar appearance. Compared to jersey fabric, this sample is thicker and heavier. It can only be solved at one end. The fabric lay flat without curling and exhibited excellent crosswise elasticity. This fabric has the advantage of being flat and non-curling, making it particularly useful for T-shirt collars.

Example 12: Dual layer knitted fabric with spandex and polyester bicomponent filaments This sample was a knitted fabric made on a double knitting machine. The fabric has two sides, side A and side B, connected to each other by interlocking threads. The A-side yarn is a 32S cotton spun yarn with 70D LYCRA® fibers, the B-side yarn is a 150D LYCRA® T400® fiber, and the interlock yarn is a 75D polyester yarn. It is. The fabric had a weight of 212.2 grams/ ^m2 . The 70D LYCRA® fiber provided stretch and recovery in the A-side. 150d/68f LYCRA® T400® fibers provided support and resilience. Compared to single-layer knitted fabrics, LYCRA® T400® fibers are characterized by the fact that LYCRA® T400® fibers can obtain complete relaxation and become coiled. It has more open space in double layer fabric. Therefore, this fabric has great thickness and high warmth, with a CLO value of 0.31. 75D polyester filament was used as an interlock thread to connect the two layers to each other.

Example 13: Dual layer knitted fabric with spandex and polyester bicomponent filaments This sample was also a knitted fabric made on a double knitting machine. The fabric had two sides, side A and side B, connected to each other by interlocking threads. The yarn in side A is a 32S spun cotton yarn with 70D LYCRA® fibers, the yarn in side B is 150D LYCRA® T400® fiber, and the interlock yarn is 70D LYCRA® fiber. (registered trademark) fiber. The fabric had a weight of 325.3 grams/ ^m2 . Two strands of 70D LYCRA® fibers provide stretch and recovery in the A side, and interlocking yarns 150d/68f LYCRA® T400® fibers provide support and recovery. Ta. Compared to Example 11, the 70D LYCRA® fibers in the interlocking yarn provide more force in this dual layer fabric, thus allowing all the fibers to be pulled closer together and significantly increasing the is accompanied by great thickness and high warmth. This sample had a CLO value of 0.52.

Example 14: Double Layer Knitted Fabric with Cushioning Yarns of LYCRA® T400® Fibers This sample was a knitted fabric made on a double knitting machine. The fabric had two sides, side A and side B, connected to each other by interlocking threads. The side A yarn was a 32S cotton spun yarn with 40D LYCRA® fibers, the B side yarn was a 75D COOLMAX® polyester fiber, and the interlock yarn was a 32S cotton yarn. The fabric weight was 244 grams/ ^m2 . 40D LYCRA® fibers provide stretch and recovery in plane A, and 150d/68f LYCRA® T400® fibers provide support and recovery in planes A and B. inserted in the center of It was covered on two sides of the fabric so that the LYCRA® T400® fibers were not visible from the front and back sides of the fabric. LYCRA® T400® fibers contract and coil under heating conditions during the fabric finishing process, thus causing the entire fabric to swell and expand through the thickness, resulting in high elasticity through the thickness. Creates a cushioned feel with a natural feel. The LYCRA® T400® fibers are placed in the center of the fabric and have more open spaces in this double layer fabric, so the LYCRA® T400® fibers allow complete relaxation. This makes it possible to form a coil. As such, this fabric has high thickness and high warmth, as well as a CLO value of 0.32.

Example 15: Double layer knit fabric with cushion yarns of LYCRA® T400® fibers This sample was a double layer knit fabric with two sides, an interlock yarn, and a cushion yarn. The A-side yarns were 150D Supplex® nylon filaments and 70D LYCRA® fibers. The B side yarn was 75D COOLMAX® polyester fiber. 150D Supplex® nylon thread was used as the interlock thread. 150d/68f T400 was plated in the center of the fabric between sides A and B. Although it is invisible, it increases the bulk and thickness of the fabric, along with good cushioning and elasticity. It is an ideal material for winter activewear with good cold protection and heat retention. The fabric can also be formed into bra cups that have good coverage, shape retention, and comfort.

Example 16: Double layer knitted fabric with cushion yarns of LYCRA® T400® fibers This fabric is a double layer interlock fabric with cushion yarns of LYCRA® T400® fibers. there were. A spun yarn of 30s TENCEEL® fiber was used as side A and connecting yarn. 70D LYCRA® fibers were used on both sides of the fabric. This fabric gives an excellent soft hand feel and very good stretch and recovery. LYCRA® T400® fibers in the center and B-side provide cushioning and 3D effects. The fabric contains 8.3% LYCRA® spandex fibers and 11.6% LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent fibers.

Example 17: Double layer knit fabric with cushion yarns of 75D LYCRA® T400® fibers This sample was a double layer knit fabric with double sides. Side A contained 50S TENCEL® spun yarn in all courses and plated with 70d LYCRA® fibers in alternate courses. The B side yarn is a 50s TENCEL® spun yarn with 70D LYCRA® fibers. A 50s TENCEL® yarn was also used as the interlock yarn. A 75D/34f LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent filament was introduced in the center of the two faces to form a space. This sample is especially useful for leggings in the fall and spring seasons.

Claims (43)

Contains elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments,
comprising a first fabric layer and a second fabric layer;
A stretchable circular knit fabric, which is a double layer spaced apart fabric, wherein cushion yarns of polyester bicomponent filaments are provided between said first fabric layer and said second fabric layer. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the elastomeric fibers include elastomeric bare yarns. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the elastomeric fibers include spandex. 4. The fabric of claim 3, wherein the spandex comprises bare spandex yarns having a count of 11 to 560 decitex. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the elastomeric fibers have a denier of 10 denier to 450 denier. Contains elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments,
There are double-sided fabrics with polyester bicomponent filaments between the two sides,
The polyester bicomponent filament comprises poly(trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly(ethylene terephthalate), poly(trimethylene terephthalate), and poly(tetramethylene terephthalate), or Stretch circular knit fabrics, including combinations. Contains elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments,
A spaced-apart fabric having both sides and cushion threads between the two sides,
The polyester bicomponent filament comprises poly(trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly(ethylene terephthalate), poly(trimethylene terephthalate), and poly(tetramethylene terephthalate), or Stretch circular knit fabrics, including combinations. Fabric according to any of claims 1, 6 and 7, wherein the polyester bicomponent filaments have a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex. The fabric of any of claims 1, 6 and 7, wherein the polyester bicomponent filaments have a denier of about 10 to about 450. The weight of the elastomeric fibers is about 3% or more of the total fabric weight, the weight of the polyester bicomponent filaments is about 5% or more of the total fabric weight, and the level of stretch of the fabric is in the wale direction and the course direction. The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein both are at least 15% or more. Contains elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments,
a double-sided fabric with polyester bicomponent filaments between the two sides;
Stretch circular knit fabric containing 100% elastic yarn. Contains elastomeric fibers and polyester bicomponent filaments,
A spaced-apart fabric having both sides and cushion threads between the two sides,
Stretch circular knit fabric containing 100% elastic yarn. The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10 , further comprising hard fibers. The fabric according to claim 13, wherein the hard fibers have a count of 10 to 900 decitex. 14. The fabric of claim 13, wherein the hard fibers are selected from the group consisting of wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, olefin, cotton, and combinations thereof. 14. The fabric of claim 13, wherein the hard fibers are textured polyester filaments. The fabric according to claim 13, wherein the hard fiber is a spun cotton yarn. 14. The fabric of claim 13, wherein the hard fibers are nylon filaments. 19. The fabric according to any of claims 1 to 18, having a stretch in the wale or course direction of about 20 to about 200%. The fabric according to any of claims 1 to 19, which is a double layer fabric made with a double knitted bed. The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 20, produced using a circular knitting machine, a seamless knitting machine, or a flat knitting machine. Fabric according to any of claims 1 to 21 , having a weight of from 100 grams to 600 grams per square meter. Clothing prepared from the fabric according to any of claims 1 to 21 . 24. The garment of claim 23 , selected from the group consisting of sportswear, activewear, swimwear, bras, underwear, underwear, leggings, outwear, and shoe fabrics. A method for making a circular knitted fabric by knitting together at least one elastomeric fiber and at least one polyester bicomponent filament.
a circular knitted double layer spaced fabric comprising a first fabric layer and a second fabric layer , wherein a polyester bicomponent filament cushion yarn is provided between the first fabric layer and the second fabric layer; Method for making dough. 26. The method of claim 25 , wherein the elastomeric fibers include elastomeric bare yarns. 26. The method of claim 25 , wherein the elastomeric fiber comprises spandex. 28. The method of claim 27 , wherein the spandex comprises spandex bare yarn having a count of 11 to 560 dtex. 26. The method of claim 25 , wherein the elastomeric fiber has a denier of 10 denier to 450 denier. A method for making a circular knit fabric, the method comprising: knitting together at least one elastomeric fiber and at least one polyester bicomponent filament into a circular knit fabric;
a double-sided fabric with polyester bicomponent filaments between the two sides;
The polyester bicomponent filament comprises poly(trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly(ethylene terephthalate), poly(trimethylene terephthalate), and poly(tetramethylene terephthalate), or A method for making circular knitted fabrics, including combinations. A method for making a circular knit fabric, the method comprising: knitting together at least one elastomeric fiber and at least one polyester bicomponent filament into a circular knit fabric;
A spaced-apart fabric having both sides and cushion threads between the two sides,
The polyester bicomponent filament comprises poly(trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly(ethylene terephthalate), poly(trimethylene terephthalate), and poly(tetramethylene terephthalate), or A method for making circular knitted fabrics, including combinations. 32. The method of any of claims 25, 30 and 31 , wherein the polyester bicomponent filament has a count of 15 dtex to 900 dtex. 32. The method of any of claims 25, 30 and 31 , wherein the polyester bicomponent filament has a denier of about 10 to about 450. The weight of the elastomeric fibers is about 3% or more of the total fabric weight, the weight of the polyester bicomponent filaments is about 5% or more of the total fabric weight, and the level of stretch of the fabric is in the wale direction and the course direction. The method according to any of claims 25 to 33 , wherein both are at least 15% or more. A method for making a circular knit fabric, the method comprising: knitting together at least one elastomeric fiber and at least one polyester bicomponent filament into a circular knit fabric;
a double-sided fabric with polyester bicomponent filaments between the two sides;
A method for making a circular knitted fabric, said fabric comprising 100% elastic yarns. A method for making a circular knit fabric, the method comprising: knitting together at least one elastomeric fiber and at least one polyester bicomponent filament into a circular knit fabric;
A spaced-apart fabric having both sides and cushion threads between the two sides,
A method for making a circular knitted fabric, said fabric comprising 100% elastic yarns. 35. A method according to any of claims 25 to 34 , further comprising knitting the hard fibers into a circular knit fabric. 38. The method of claim 37 , wherein the hard fibers have a count of 10 to 900 decitex. 38. The method of claim 37 , wherein the hard fiber is selected from the group consisting of wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, olefin, cotton, and combinations thereof. 38. The method of claim 37 , wherein the hard fiber is a textured polyester filament. 38. The method of claim 37 , wherein the hard fiber is spun cotton yarn. 38. The method of claim 37 , wherein the hard fiber is a nylon filament. 43. The method of any of claims 25-42 , wherein the fabric has a wale or course direction stretch of about 20 to about 200%.