JP2007107123A - Elastic composite yarn and woven and knitted fabric by using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an elastic composite yarn that shows reduced slip-in and comprises elastic fiber having undamaged stretching property and non-elastic fiber and provide woven or knitted fabric using the same. <P>SOLUTION: In this invention, the first elastic fiber and the second elastic fiber wherein they have a melting point different from each other are paralleled to prepare the core yarn and non-elastic yarns are wound around the core yarn, or the non-elastic yarns are arranged around the core yarn as sheath yarns and spun to form the elastic composite yarn. The resultant sheath-core yarn is heat-treated at a temperature lower than the melting point of the first elastic fiber and higher than the melting point of the second elastic fiber. Thus, the first elastic fiber, as a binder, is fused around the core yarn and the wound non-elastic yarn (yarn for covering) and twisted non-elastic yarn or sheath yarns are fused to inhibit the slip-in. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a composite elastic yarn having elasticity, and further relates to a woven fabric and a knitted fabric with less slip-in.

Composite elastic yarns are made by combining elastic yarns such as polyurethane filaments, natural fibers such as cotton and linen, and fibers made of various short fibers.
In addition, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics using these composite elastic yarns are rich in stretch and are used in various garments.

A woven fabric or knitted fabric using such a composite elastic yarn is rich in stretchability and becomes a stretch woven fabric or knitted fabric. However, these composite elastic yarns are composed of an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn, but have a property that the bond between the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn is weak. For this reason, when the yarn breaks, the portion of the elastic yarn only contracts, and the portion of the inelastic yarn without the elastic yarn remains. Further, when a fabric or knitted fabric using the composite elastic yarn is cut or cut, the elastic yarn contracts from the cut portion, and a portion without the elastic yarn is generated. This phenomenon is called slip-in.
This phenomenon may be seen in the stitches that are sewn when the final product is produced, causing slippage of the slip-in portion and generation of wrinkles.
These phenomena are often seen particularly when washing is performed after product sewing.
It should be noted that fabrics and knitted fabrics having stretch properties tend to increase the number of such products with consumer-oriented diversification.

In order to improve the slip-in phenomenon, the following composite elastic yarn has been proposed.
<1> Patent Document 1 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 47-20306) discloses that two or more kinds of yarns having different temperatures for softening and fusing are knitted into an arbitrary structure by twisting or drawing, and the softening and fusing temperature. Only the crossing part of low-yarn yarns are fused to each other, and the low-softening fusion temperature of the yarn is not fused to other yarns and other yarns. Discloses a technique for preventing a run using two or more types of yarns that are different from each other.
In Patent Document 1, fusion is performed only at the intersection of yarns to be softened and fused. The yarn to be softened and fused is a bare yarn and is not fused with other yarns. Is. There is no technical idea of preventing slip-in of a woven or knitted fabric using a composite elastic yarn composed of elastic fibers and inelastic fibers.

<2> Patent Document 2 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 10-273737) describes a type of covered elastic yarn that is coated by heat-setting the elastic yarn in a stretched state. The coated elastic yarn is heat-treated in the liquid in the stretched state, and the sheath yarn of wool acrylic is coated around the core yarn using polyurethane fiber as the core yarn. As this coated elastic yarn, a yarn excellent in form stability and a yarn and fabric having less slip-in are described.

<3> In Patent Document 3 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-40541), a narrow knitted fabric is formed from one or more composite elastic yarns, and loops are continuously connected in the longitudinal direction to form a string. A composite elastic yarn as a yarn is described. Since this composite elastic yarn has a knot at the connecting portion of the loop, even if the composite elastic yarn is cut, the elastic yarn cannot be shrunk beyond the knot, so that it does not slip in.

<4> Patent Document 4 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-278042) describes a covered elastic yarn that is stretched with a covered yarn while the elastic yarn is stretched and twisted with a double twister. ing.

Each of Patent Documents 2 to 4 has the following problems.
In Patent Document 2, there is a risk that the elasticity of the elastic yarn is reduced due to heat treatment, and in Patent Document 3, a yarn having a fine count cannot be formed because it is a string-like yarn. There is a possibility that the stretchability may be reduced by the friction of the coated yarn.
No. 47-20306 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-273737 JP 2001-40541 A JP 2003-278042 A

  The present invention has been conceived from the above problems, and provides a composite elastic yarn composed of an elastic fiber and a non-elastic fiber with little slip-in and which does not impair stretchability, and a woven or knitted fabric using the composite elastic yarn. The purpose is to do.

The present invention
<1> A composite elastic yarn in which the first elastic fiber and the second elastic fiber having different melting points are aligned to form a core yarn, and the non-elastic yarn or the non-elastic fiber is coated around the core yarn. ,
<2> The composite elastic yarn according to <1>, wherein a non-elastic yarn is wound around the core yarn, or a short fiber of non-elastic fiber is spun around the core yarn as a sheath yarn. Elastic yarn,
<3> The composite elastic yarn, wherein the melting point of the second elastic fiber according to <1> to <2> is higher by 10 ° C. than the melting point of the first elastic fiber,
<4> The composite elastic yarn, wherein the first elastic fiber according to <1> to <3> is a heat-fusible polyurethane elastic fiber,
<5> A composite elastic yarn, wherein the composite elastic yarn according to <1> to <4> is heat-treated at a temperature at which the first elastic fiber is melted and the second elastic fiber is not melted,
<6> In the description of <5>, a composite elastic yarn that is heat-treated at a temperature of 140 to 200 ° C.,
<7> A woven or knitted fabric using the composite elastic yarn according to <1> to <4>, wherein the first elastic fiber is melted and the second elastic fiber is heat-treated at a temperature that does not melt. ,
<8> In the description of <7>, a woven or knitted fabric that is heat-treated at a temperature of 140 to 200 ° C.,
<9> A woven or knitted fabric using the composite elastic yarn according to <5>,
I will provide a.

  According to the composite elastic yarn of the present invention, a temperature at which the first elastic fiber melts and a temperature at which the second elastic fiber does not melt after the state of the composite elastic yarn or a woven or knitted fabric using the composite elastic yarn is used. By heat-treating, the first elastic fiber acts as a binder, and the core yarn and the non-elastic yarn (covering yarn) wound around the core yarn or the sheath yarn of the non-elastic fiber are fused and slipped. Prevent ins.

  The stretchability of the composite elastic yarn depends on the elastic fiber that is the core yarn. In the composite elastic yarn of the present invention, the stretchability is largely attributed to the second elastic fiber. The first elastic fiber also functions as a binder at least, and has stretchability even after heat fusion.

  As described above, according to the composite elastic yarn of the present invention, it is possible to eliminate or reduce the decrease in stretchability (stretchability) of the elastic fiber due to heat treatment, and maintain the stretchability without slip-in while maintaining good stretchability. A fiber structure can be obtained.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The present invention is a composite elastic yarn in which a first elastic fiber and a second elastic fiber having different melting points are aligned to form a core yarn, and the core yarn is covered with a non-elastic yarn or a non-elastic fiber.

<1> First Elastic Fiber The first elastic fiber of the present invention has a melting point that is 10 ° C. or more, preferably 15 ° C. or more lower than the melting point of the second elastic fiber. As the melting point, those having a fusing property at 180 ° C. or lower can be preferably used. As the first elastic fiber, various elastic fibers having elasticity, for example, various elastic fibers such as polyurethane elastic fiber, polyetherester elastic fiber, polyamide elastomer elastic fiber can be used. Polyurethane elastic fibers are preferred from the viewpoint of properties. For example, as described in WO2004 / 053218A1, (A) a both-end isocyanate group prepolymer (hereinafter referred to as “both-terminal NCO group prepolymer”) obtained by reacting a polyol and a diisocyanate, (B) a polyol, Polyurethane elasticity melt-spun without solidifying the polymer obtained by reacting a diisocyanate with a low molecular weight diol and a hydroxyl group prepolymer obtained by reacting both ends (hereinafter referred to as “both end OH group prepolymer”) The fiber has a heat-fusibility and is excellent in heat-resistant strength retention, and is a preferred example.

<2> Second Elastic Fiber The second elastic fiber preferably has a melting point higher than that of the first elastic fiber by 10 ° C. or higher, more preferably higher by 15 ° C. or higher. For example, when the melting point of the first elastic fiber is 180 ° C., the second elastic fiber preferably has a melting point of 190 ° C. or higher, more preferably 195 ° C. or higher. As the elastic fiber, the same type as the first elastic fiber or a different type can be used, but the same type as the first elastic fiber is preferable from the viewpoint of fusion. When the first elastic fiber is a polyurethane elastic fiber, the second elastic fiber is preferably a polyurethane elastic fiber, and moreover, Mobilon P type (manufactured by Nisshinbo Co., Ltd.), which is a polyurethane elastic fiber by dry spinning, Leuka C804. C805, SP (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.), Lycra T127C, Extra Life Lycra (manufactured by Operontex Co., Ltd.) and the like are preferable examples.

  The melting point of the present invention is a TMA (thermal instrument measuring device) using a quartz probe, grasping length is 20 mm, elongation is 0.5%, temperature range is room temperature to 250 ° C., temperature rising rate is 20 ° C./min. The temperature at which the thermal stress becomes 0 mgf under the above conditions.

<3> Inelastic fiber or inelastic yarn The inelastic yarn or inelastic fiber used in the present invention is wound around a core yarn or spun around a core yarn using a short fiber as a sheath yarn. These non-elastic yarns or non-elastic fibers include, for example, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk, chemical fibers such as polyester, acrylic, nylon, rayon, polynosic, cupra, and lyocell, or blends of these. Used. These fibers are used as long fibers (filaments) or short fibers.

<4> Composite Elastic Yarn A covering yarn type composite elastic yarn in which a non-elastic yarn is wound around a core yarn formed by aligning the first and second elastic fibers of the present invention uses a conventionally known covering machine. it can. First, the 1st and 2nd elastic fiber supplied from the 1st cheese which wound the 1st and 2nd elastic fiber, respectively is put together, and it passes through a covering yarn bobbin. A draft zone is formed between the cheese and the intermediate roller, and the aligned elastic fibers are elongated at a predetermined draft rate. The coated yarn bobbin is rotated while winding the aligned elastic fibers around the second cheese, thereby covering the inelastic yarn around the aligned elastic fibers being drafted. The covering machine is a device that performs the covering once, but may be a device in which a plurality of draft zones are provided so that a plurality of coverings can be performed simultaneously.

  A production example of the covering yarn type composite elastic yarn of the present invention will be described. As the first elastic fiber, polyurethane elastic fiber [preferably melting point of 180 ° C. or lower, 17 to 933 dtex (decitex)] (hereinafter referred to as first polyurethane elastic fiber), and as the second elastic fiber, polyurethane elastic fiber [melting point 190 to 933 dtex (decitex)] (hereinafter referred to as second polyurethane elastic fiber) is used, and as the non-elastic fiber, for example, nylon 13 to 312 dtex (decitex), polyester 33 to 330 dtex (decitex) is used. use. First, using a covering machine, in a state where the first and second polyurethane elastic fibers are stretched 1.0 to 5.0 times, non-elastic fibers are placed around 150 to 2000 T / s in the S direction or Z direction. A single covering yarn is wound with a twist number of m.

  Next, a core spun yarn type composite elastic yarn in which short fibers of non-elastic fibers are wound as a sheath yarn around the core yarn in which the first and second elastic fibers of the present invention are aligned will be described. The production method consists of supplying the above-mentioned non-elastic short fiber to the spinning machine back roller, drafting it at a low rate with the front roller to create a fleece, and for the core immediately before the front roller. The core yarn in which the first and second elastic fibers are aligned is supplied to the center of the fleece with tension at a predetermined draft rate, and after passing through the front roller, the core yarn is wound around a fine spinning yarn while twisting both. .

  In the present invention, the draft ratio of the elastic fiber at the time of core spun yarn spinning is 2.5 to 5.0, and the twist coefficient α is 3.6 to 4.8, preferably 4.0 to 4.4. .

  When the draft rate of the elastic fiber is in the above range, the stretchability is good and efficient, and it is economical. Further, if the draft rate is increased, the yarn is likely to break in some cases.

  When the twist coefficient α is in the above range, it is an efficient condition that does not cause deviation of the sheath yarn.

<5> Woven / knitted fabric Using the composite elastic yarn of the present invention, a stretchable (stretchable) woven fabric or knitted fabric can be produced.
Various fabrics such as plain weave, twill weave, and double weave can be used. The weaving method is not particularly limited, but a fabric that can make use of stretch properties is preferable.
Next, various knitting methods such as warp knitting and weft knitting can be performed. The knitted fabric is not particularly limited.

<6> Heat treatment The composite elastic yarn of the present invention or the woven or knitted fabric using the composite elastic yarn is heated at a temperature at which the first elastic fiber melts and the second elastic fiber does not melt. The first elastic fiber and the second elastic fiber melted together, and the first elastic fiber and the non-elastic yarn or non-elastic fiber coated around the core yarn can be heat-sealed.
In the present invention, heat fusion can be performed by a general dry heat setting process.

  Here, the heat set conditions depend on the heat set processing method, the type of the first elastic fiber, and the melting point, but in the case of the dry heat set, by using a setting machine such as a pin tenter and performing heat treatment with hot air. It can be carried out. In this case, the set temperature is generally 140 to 200 ° C., particularly 160 to 195 ° C., and the set time can be 10 seconds to 3 minutes, particularly 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Particularly in the case of polyurethane elastic fibers, the above temperature and time range are preferable. If the set temperature is less than 140 ° C., the set is unfavorable because the set is sweet, wrinkles are newly generated in post-processing, and the dyeing fastness is lowered. On the other hand, when the set temperature is higher than 200 ° C., for example, the texture of the knitted fabric is impaired due to hardening or deterioration of the inelastic fibers, which is not preferable. If the set time is less than 10 seconds or longer than 3 minutes, it is not preferable for the same reason.

The composite elastic yarn of this invention is demonstrated using the sectional drawing.
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of an example of production of a composite elastic yarn (core spun yarn type) according to the present invention, wherein 1 is a first polyurethane elastic fiber, 2 is a second polyurethane elastic fiber, and 3 is a sheath yarn. Cotton fiber.
It can be seen that the first polyurethane elastic fiber 1 is melted by heat treatment and completely fused to the second polyurethane elastic fiber, and also fused to the cotton fiber of the sheath yarn.

As described above, the first polyurethane elastic fiber is melted by heat treatment, and is fused to the second polyurethane elastic fiber and the cotton fiber, which is a non-elastic fiber, to function as a binder. By this binder function, slip-in in the composite elastic yarn can be prevented.
The first polyurethane elastic fiber also has a stretch function as an elastic fiber after fusing. Furthermore, there is no worry of peeling because the second polyurethane elastic fiber expands and contracts simultaneously.
Further, the covering type and core spun yarn type composite elastic yarn of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric having a good texture because neither the first elastic fiber nor the second elastic fiber directly touches human skin.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is shown and this invention is demonstrated concretely, this invention is not restrict | limited to the following Example.
[Example 1]
As the first elastic fiber, a melt-spun polyurethane elastic fiber (78 dtex, melting point 163 ° C.), and as the second elastic fiber, a dry-spun polyurethane elastic fiber (78 dtex, melting point 218 ° C., Mobilon P type yarn, Nisshinbo Co., Ltd.) Made).

Test method In order to confirm slip-in, the first elastic fiber and the second elastic fiber were used to create a composite elastic yarn and a woven fabric using the composite elastic yarn as described below, heat treatment, and dyeing. The presence or absence of slip-in was visually confirmed.

Composite elastic yarn First polyurethane elastic fiber 78dtex and second polyurethane elastic fiber 78dtex are used as core yarns, the first polyurethane elastic fiber is stretched 1.1 times, and the second polyurethane elastic fiber is 3.3 times The yarn was stretched and aligned, and a filament yarn of nylon 78 dtex was wound around it as an inelastic fiber to produce a covering yarn.
Fabric production on one side rapier loom (ER loom manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
Warp 100% cotton, 30 count, cocoon density 94 / 吋 weft Yield of the above composite elastic yarn, number of driven 62 / 吋 weave 3/1 left twill
Sample preparation The above-mentioned woven fabric is cut in the warp direction near the ear on one side, and the cut end is end-sewn with an overlock sewing machine to prepare a sample.
Heat treatment The above sample is pre-set at 170 ° C. for 2 minutes with the same entrance / exit width using a pin tenter.
After dyeing and relaxation presetting, the sample is dyed with a disperse dye (130 ° C. × 5 minutes) in a small liquid flow dyeing machine, then relaxed at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes and sufficiently contracted.
Dry and relax the sample in a tumble dryer.

Visual confirmation The above samples are visually checked for slip-in. If the dyed polyurethane elastic fiber slips in from the side sewn with the overlock sewing machine to the opposite side, a color change occurs in the sample. The presence or absence of slip-in is confirmed by the presence or absence of this color change.
Measurement of stretch performance With a Tensilon (RTC-1210A manufactured by Orientec), the SS curve is measured and the stretch performance is measured.
Sample for measuring elongation : Cut into a width of 3 cm (in the warp length direction) and a length of 30 cm (in the weft length direction), loosen the woven fabric of the ears on both sides by 0.5 cm, and make the width of the woven fabric 2 cm.
Elongation: 5 cm on both sides in the length direction of the sample is gripped with a chuck, and the length of the sample is 20 cm. Next, the interval between chucks is set to 18 cm, and the tension (load) on the sample is set to zero. Elongation speed and chart speed are performed at 20 cm / min until the load reaches 2.5 kgf. Further, the extension length refers to the length of the chuck that is opened with reference to the length between the chucks of 20 cm.
Elongation (%) = [2.5 Kgf Elongation Length-2] / Sample Length (20 cm) × 100
Measurement of recovery rate After extending to 2.5 kgf in the elongation test, the recovery rate was calculated by the following formula from the elongation length of the sample after removing the load.
Recovery rate (%) = [(Elongation length when loaded with 2.5 kgf-2−2) −Length when deweighted] / (Length when weighted with 2.5 kgf−2) × 100

[Comparative Example 1]
Comparative Example 1 was a covering yarn in which the core yarn was only the second polyurethane elastic fiber 78 dtex and was covered with nylon. Others were woven or sampled in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 2]
In the composite elastic yarn of Example 2, the first polyurethane elastic fiber 78dtex and the second polyurethane elastic fiber 78dtex are used as core yarns, the draft ratio is 3.8, the twist coefficient is 4.0, and cotton fibers are used as sheath yarns. A cotton spun yarn with a cotton count of 40 was used. Others were woven or sampled in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Comparative Example 2]
In Comparative Example 2, a core spun yarn of cotton count 40 using only the second polyurethane elastic fiber 78dtex as the core yarn, a draft ratio of 3.8, a twisting coefficient = 4.0, and a cotton fiber as the sheath yarn was used. Others were woven or sampled in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 3]
In the composite elastic yarn of Example 3, the first polyurethane elastic fiber 78dtex and the second polyurethane elastic fiber 78dtex are used as core yarns, the draft ratio is 3.8, the twist coefficient is 4.0, and cotton fibers are used as sheath yarns. It was a core spun yarn with 30 cotton count. Others were woven or sampled in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Comparative Example 3]
Comparative Example 3 is a core of cotton count 30 in which the core yarn is only the second polyurethane elastic fiber 156 dtex (melting point 210 ° C.), the draft rate is 3.8, the twist coefficient is 4.0, and the cotton yarn is used as the sheath yarn. Spun yarn was used. Others were woven or sampled in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 4]
The composite elastic yarn of Example 4 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the fineness was changed from 78 dtex to 70 dtex, and the first polyurethane elastic fiber having a melting point of 166 ° C. and the second polyurethane elastic fiber (110 dtex, A core spun yarn of a cotton count 10 having a melting point of 215 ° C. as a core yarn, a draft ratio of 3.8, a twist coefficient = 4.0, and a cotton fiber as a sheath yarn was used.
Fabric production on one side rapier loom (ER loom manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
Warp 100% cotton, 7th, cocoon density 56 / 本 Weft Yield of the above composite elastic yarn 39 / 吋 Structure 3/1 right twill
Sample preparation The above-mentioned woven fabric is cut in the warp direction near the ear on one side, and the cut end is end-sewn with an overlock sewing machine to prepare a sample.
Heat treatment The above sample is pre-set at 170 ° C. for 2 minutes with the same entrance / exit width using a pin tenter.
After dyeing and relaxation presetting, the sample is dyed with disperse dye (130 ° C. × 5 minutes) in a small liquid dyeing machine, then relaxed at 90 ° C. for 15 minutes with hydrogen peroxide bleaching, and fully contracted.
Allow the dried sample to dry naturally.
Visual confirmation The above samples are visually checked for slip-in. If the dyed polyurethane elastic fiber slips in from the side sewn with the overlock sewing machine to the opposite side, a color change occurs in the sample. The presence or absence of slip-in is confirmed by the presence or absence of this color change.
The results are shown in Table 2.

[Example 5]
Example 2 except that the second polyurethane elastic fiber of the composite elastic yarn of Example 5 was chlorine-resistant Leuka 122 dtex (Leuka SP, Leukas Impro, Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd., melting point 192 ° C.). I made it. The results are shown in Table 2.

[Comparative Example 4]
Comparative Example 4 was the same as Example 4 except that the core yarn was the second polyurethane elastic fiber 156 dtex (melting point 210 ° C.). The results are shown in Table 2.

This will be described with reference to Tables 1 and 2 above.
In Comparative Examples 1 to 3 with respect to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 4 with respect to Examples 4 and 5, there is no large difference in numerical values such as shrinkage rate and elongation, and elasticity (stretchability). Has almost the same performance. However, in the example, no slip-in occurred, whereas in the comparative example, all slip-in occurred.

The expanded cross-sectional photograph of the composite elastic yarn of this invention.

Explanation of symbols

1 1st polyurethane elastic fiber 2 2nd polyurethane elastic fiber 3 sheath yarn (cotton fiber)

Claims (9)

  A composite elastic yarn, wherein the first elastic fiber and the second elastic fiber having different melting points are aligned to form a core yarn, and the non-elastic yarn or the non-elastic fiber is coated around the core yarn.   The composite elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein a non-elastic yarn is wound around the core yarn, or a short fiber of non-elastic fiber is spun around the core yarn as a sheath yarn.   3. The composite elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein a melting point of the second elastic fiber is 10 ° C. higher than a melting point of the first elastic fiber.   4. The composite elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the first elastic fiber is a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber.   5. The composite elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the composite elastic yarn is heat-treated at a temperature at which the first elastic fiber is melted and the second elastic fiber is not melted.   The composite elastic yarn according to claim 5, wherein the composite elastic yarn is heat-treated at a temperature of 140 to 200 ° C.   A woven or knitted fabric using the composite elastic yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the first elastic fiber is melted and the second elastic fiber is heat-treated at a temperature that does not melt.   The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 7, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is heat-treated at a temperature of 140 to 200 ° C. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite elastic yarn according to claim 5.