CN101307523A - Production method for stretching fabric containing spandex fiber and wiry yarn - Google Patents
Production method for stretching fabric containing spandex fiber and wiry yarn Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN101307523A CN101307523A CNA2007101388565A CN200710138856A CN101307523A CN 101307523 A CN101307523 A CN 101307523A CN A2007101388565 A CNA2007101388565 A CN A2007101388565A CN 200710138856 A CN200710138856 A CN 200710138856A CN 101307523 A CN101307523 A CN 101307523A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- fabric
- elastomer
- hard
- spandex fiber
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Images
Abstract
The invention relates to a method for producing an extension textile containing spandex fiber and wiry yarn, and discloses a method for producing an extension textile with a warp direction and/or weft direction elongation percentage between 10 and 45 percent. The production of composite core-spun stretch yarn is as follows: (a) the core-spun stretch yarn is spun by the low drafting multiple of 2.7 or more lower, or (b) the composite core-spun stretch yarn is pre-processed with steam or hot water at a temperature of at least 110 DEG C to reduce the yarn retractive force before the dyeing or weaving process. The textile made by using the composite core-spun stretch yarn as weft yarns can meet the specification requirements of the final application without heat setting.
Description
The present invention is the U.S. series application No.11/268 that submitted on November 7th, 2005,112 continuation, and this application requires the U. S. application No.60/626 of submission on November 10th, 2004,698 priority, above-mentioned two applications merge incorporated by reference at this.
Background of invention
Technical field
The manufacture method of the stretching, extension Woven fabric that the present invention relates to compound core-spun elastic yarn and make by this yarn.
Summary of related art.
Stretch the existing about 30 years production history of Woven fabric.The practitioner of textile industry as spinning person, weaver, tinter/back trimmer, cutter and designer, understands fabric and clothes that the consumer wishes to obtain meeting QUALITY STANDARD.Yet lightweight elasticity skyteens fabric (weighs less than 175g/m
2) production very difficult usually because common elastomer the elastic force of spandex fiber is too strong like that, thereby shrink too tightly, can cause fabric too tightly too thick.Fabric construction causes skyteens to have higher shrinkage closely, the feel of more coarse, non-cotton and not feeling well owing to overheated when wearing.(be lower than 175g/m in order to produce high-comfort lightweight
2) elasticity skyteens fabric, HEAT SETTING perhaps is a necessary procedure in the production process.
Even be used to produce thick and heavy jeans, also be difficult to produce COARSE DRILL cloth with warp-stretch.There is the limited COARSE DRILL cloth of warp-stretch amplitude on the market; Yet these fabrics have some undesirable characteristics, comprise high contraction, high shrinkage variation, tangible weft yarn torsional deformation and extend excessive.
The warp thread of jean is dyed blueness or black with bipseudoindoxyl dye usually before weaving.The gratifying variation that unique tone that the clothing made from the fabric of indigo dye and dyeing has and this tone produce after bleaching with cyclic washing after a while makes that the designers can be based on the sensitiveness design dress-goods of this tone variations.
It all is to use stretch yarn and make on its prolonging direction that great majority stretch Woven fabrics.For example, use stretch yarn as the fabric of warp thread industry in next life to elongation.
Usually, production elasticity jean can use the composite yarn of being made by the Spandex fiber of 70 DENIER (78 dtex) and 40 DENIER (44 dtex).Spandex fiber (elastomer) coats at yarn can the about 4.0 times mechanical commutation draft of about 3.5-in the operation.This typical cladded yarn can have high elasticity.Under the effect of hot water, the elastomer that is stretched can produce answer and cause that the superpacket heart yarn shrinks and then crimp twist lumps together in the indigo dyeing operation.This contraction and curl to make that yarn is difficult to keep stretching in later process.After dyeing, because yarn flake tension is irregular, these yarns are difficult to carry out warping and weave operation.Because these difficulties that broken end, shutdown and appearance of fabrics flaw bring can reduce warping and woven efficient, even feasible operation can not be carried out.
In addition, the fabric quality of being made by such yarn is not good.Particularly washing shrinkage height, poor dimensional stability, recovery difference and cloth cover height are crooked.
For stretching Woven fabric, most of stretch yarn are all united use with relative inelastic fiber, and as polyester, cotton, nylon, artificial silk or wool, these inelastic relatively fibers are also sometimes referred to as " firmly " fiber.
Elastomer is generally used for providing extensibility and elastic returning for woven fabric and clothes." elastic fibers " is a continuous filament yarn (can be the aggegation multifilament) or plurality of threads, do not contain diluent, has under without any the situation of curling to surpass 100% elongation at break.Elastomer (1) is when being elongated to the original length twice; (2) kept one minute; (3) discharge, can be withdrawn in one minute after being released in 1.5 times of original length." elastomer " that use among the application should be interpreted as at least one elastomer or long filament.This class elastomer includes but not limited to IR fiber, bicomponent fiber, elastoester fiber, lastol fiber and Spandex fiber.
" Spandex fiber " is a kind of artificial filament, and its fibre forming thing is the long-chain synthetic polymer that contains the block polyurethane of at least 85% weight ratio.
" Elastoester " is a kind of artificial filament, and its fibre forming thing is the long-chain synthetic polymer that the polyester by aliphatic polyether that contains at least 50% weight ratio and at least 35% weight ratio constitutes.
" bicomponent fiber " is a kind of continuous filament yarn, contain at least two kinds of mutual bonding polymer on the filament length direction, every kind of polymer belongs to different classifications respectively, and for example: sandwich layer is that flexible polyether acid amides and sheath layer are that polyamide and sheath layer have a plurality of slivers or blade.
" Lastol " is a kind of crosslinked synthetic polymeric fibers, and degree of crystallinity is low but remarkable, contains ethene and at least a other olefin unit of at least 95% weight ratio.This fiber has elasticity and significant heat resistance.
The elastomer of " by coating " is around, twisted or mix up hard yarn on an elastomer.Wrap yarn comprises elastomer and hard yarn in this application, is also referred to as " composite yarn ".The effect of hard yarn clad is a protection elastomer protected from wear in weaving process.Wearing and tearing can cause elastomer fracture and then take place that continuous weaving interrupted and undesirable fabric is inhomogeneous.In addition, clad also helps to stablize the elasticity of elastomer.Like this, compare with the naked yarn of the elastomer of no clad, the percentage elongation of composite yarn can be more evenly controlled in weaving process.
The composite yarn of various ways is arranged, comprising: (a) with the single coating elastic fibers of hard yarn; (b) hard yarn double wrapped elastic fibers; (c) staple fibre coats (being that core spinning coats) elastic fibers, twisting when reeling subsequently continuously; (d) with air-jet method elastomer and hard yarn being mixed entwines; (e) elastic fibers and hard yarn twisted are in the same place.Purposes composite yarn the most widely is cotton/Spandex fabric core-spun yarn." cladded yarn " is made of the separable heart yarn of cover-spinning fibrous sheath layer.The production of core-spun elastic yarn is the front draft roller of the Spandex fiber filament being introduced fine spining machine, and coats upward staple fibre herein.
A kind of representational core spinning equipment 40 as shown in Figure 1.In the core spinning process, elastomer, spandex fiber is combined to form the superpacket heart yarn with hard fibre like that.Spandex fiber on the bobbin 48 is in the arrow 50 direction unwindings of the effect lower edge of the roller 46 of active drive.Roller 46 is carried Spandex fiber filament or yarn 52 as the support of bobbin 48 and according to predefined speed.
Hard fibre or yarn 44 are joined in preliminary roller group 42 with Spandex fiber filament 52 after the unwinding from the bobbin 54.Spandex fiber filament 52 after compound and hard fibre 44 carry out core spinning and coat at spinning apparatus 56 places.
Spandex fiber filament 52 stretched before entering preliminary roller 42 (drawing-off).This Spandex fiber filament is to carry out drawing-off by the speed difference between feed rolls 46 and the preliminary roller 42.The transporting velocity of preliminary roller 42 is faster than the speed of feed rolls 46.The draw ratio that the speed of adjusting feed rolls 46 can obtain wishing, i.e. mechanical commutation draft ratio.Usually, the mechanical commutation draft of bag core elastic force composite yarn comprises about 3.0 times to about 3.8 times than for about 3.0 times to about 4.0 times.This is corresponding with Spandex fiber 200%-300% or higher elongation.The drawing-off of Spandex fiber is given final cladded yarn with elasticity, because the Spandex fibre core can be removed after-contraction in external force, thereby the yarn clad that is spun into is tightened with bulk.The finished product composite yarn can be stretched to the extreme position that nonelastic clad yarn is stretched to.
The method that Fig. 2 discloses a kind of representational core-spun elastic yarn production method and weaved the production stretching fabric with this core-spun elastic yarn.Elastomer and in Fig. 2, be expressed as cotton hard yarn, use-case equipment as shown in Figure 1 merges by core spinning, form superpacket heart yarn 10, in process example shown in Figure 2, this superpacket heart yarn has passed through dead twist 12 (promptly at about 70 ℃-Yue 80 ℃, sometimes up to carrying out steam treatment under 110 ℃ the temperature), reel 14, kiering and/or bleaching and dye 16, reel 18 again, be made into skyteens 20, singe 21, destarch 22, kiering and/or bleaching and dye 24, with HEAT SETTING 26 under 190 ℃ or higher temperature, and shiinkproof finish 28.
For skyteens, the yarn preparation section may comprise that kiering and/or bleaching and dyeing comprise cheese dyeing.For jean, the yarn preparatory process may comprise yarn rope dyeing, Sizing machines dyeing and beam dyeing.
HEAT SETTING 26 is " typing " Spandex fiber under the state of elongation.This operation is also referred to as fiber number refinement again (re-deniering), the Spandex fiber of high fiber number is drafted or stretch and to become low-denier fiber herein, and be heated to sufficiently high temperature, through the sufficiently long time, make the Spandex fiber be stabilized in the state of low-titer.Therefore HEAT SETTING means the permanent change of Spandex fiber on molecular level, and consequently the answer tension force of the Spandex fiber after the elongation is farthest discharged, and becomes stable under new low-titer state.The heat setting temperature of Spandex fiber is generally 175 ℃-200 ℃.Spandex fiber heat setting process condition commonly used is to keep 45 seconds down or the longer time at about 190 ℃.
Usually, stretching Woven fabric makes with containing the composite yarn that 30 DENIER of having an appointment (33 dtex)-Yue 70 DENIER (78 dtex) comprise the Spandex fiber of about 30 DENIER (33 dtex)-Yue 40 DENIER (44 dtex).This Spandex fiber can coat (the mechanical commutation draft that the about 3.0-of the step 10) among Fig. 2 is about 4.0 times in the operation in yarn coating or core spinning.This composite yarn is made into fabric.If the fabric that is made into does not carry out HEAT SETTING (step 26 among Fig. 2), these fabrics can have the feel that height is stretched forthright, high relaxation shrinkage and synthetic fabrics.Typically, the stretching, extension Woven fabric excess shrinkage after process textile finishing operation with the composite yarn of the Spandex fiber that contains 30-70 DENIER and the about 3.0-4.0 of process times mechanical commutation draft is made produces the not good heavily fabric of feel.
In order to improve fabric feeling and to reduce the retraction force that stretches Woven fabric, require when textile finishing, to carry out HEAT SETTING (step 26 among Fig. 2) usually.When HEAT SETTING, fabric is placed on the stenter and in baking oven and is heated.Stenter grips fabric edge by cloth nail, and in baking oven on length and the width both direction stretching fabric so that elastomer or yarn heat typing and make fabric return arrive desirable size and basic weight.
For fabrics in general, if without HEAT SETTING 26 operations typing Spandex fiber, high shrinkage may take place in this fabric, fabric weight is overweight and it is excessive to extend, and brings sour experience to the consumer.Excess shrinkage in the textile finishing operation may cause fabric cloth cover when processing and family expenses washing to play CREASE MARK.This CREASE MARK is difficult to remove by flatiron.
Need to produce high-quality, cotton type feel, breathe freely, safeguard easily, carry out cheese dyeing and indigo dye and dyeing easily, do not need fabric HEAT SETTING and processing technology simply to stretch Woven fabric.Comprise skyteens and have cotton type style and low-shrinkage, and the bidirectional elastic jean of making easily.
Summary of the invention
The present invention includes the production method of making stretching fabric with the superpacket heart yarn, this fabric need not to carry out HEAT SETTING in the operation of back.The present invention further comprises stretching fabric and the clothes made from this fabric, and this fabric comprises skyteens and COARSE DRILL cloth.
According to first specific embodiment of this method, elastomer and hard fibre are made compound core-spun elastic yarn by core spinning, and elastomer is drawing to 2.7 times that are no more than original length when core spinning coats (core spin covering).This elastomer can be a fiber number for the 11-156 dtex comprises the naked yarn of Spandex fiber of 11-44 dtex, and hard fibre can be that yam count is that 5-80Ne comprises the hard yarn that 10-80 props up.Cotton yarn is a kind of suitable hard yarn.
According to second specific embodiment of this method, elastomer and hard fibre coat by core spinning and make compound core-spun elastic yarn, adopt habitual 3.0 times or higher draw ratio.After this superpacket heart yarn is spun into, to carry out preliminary treatment with hot water or steam under the temperature at least 110 ℃ in dyeing or before weaving.Steam pre-treatment can be to comprise 110 ℃-Yue 130 ℃ Temperature Treatment 6-60 minute with 110 ℃-140 ℃ in autoclave.The hot water preliminary treatment can be to comprise 110 ℃-Yue 130 ℃ Temperature Treatment 5-30 minute with 110 ℃-140 ℃ in yarn bobbin dyeing yarn machine.In this alternative specific embodiment, the elastomer that is used to make the superpacket heart yarn can be the naked yarn of Spandex fiber of 22-156 dtex, and hard fibre can be that yam count is the hard yarn that 5-80Ne comprises 10-80Ne.Cotton yarn is a kind of suitable hard yarn.
A kind of fabric is to be made into the compound core-spun elastic yarn that above-mentioned any method is produced.This compound core-spun elastic yarn is used for broadwise at least.They also can be used for warp-wise or warp-weft two-way.Can adopt any fabric tissue, comprise: plain weave, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill, OXFORD, poplin cloth, small jacquard, sateen and satin weave.This composite yarn can be used for every warp thread or weft yarn.They also can alternately be arranged in pairs or groups with hard yarn and use.For example, composite yarn is joined a hard yarn or a composite yarn is joined two hard yarns.Can be that an about composite yarn is joined per seven hard yarns at the most.Do not need in the later process fabric is carried out HEAT SETTING.Later process may comprise cleaning, bleaching, dyeing, oven dry, compacting (compacting), shiinkproof finish (Sang Fu puts sanforizing in order), singes, the associating of destarch, mercerising and above-mentioned operation.This superpacket heart yarn also can be used for warp-wise in fabric.
The skyteens fabric example of this innovative approach production of usefulness has 175g/m
2Or lower fabric weight, and its to wash post-shrinkage ratio be 10% or lower.This fabric can have the fabric cover of about 45%-of warp-wise about 70% and the about 30-of broadwise about 50%.This fabric can have the percentage elongation of the about 10%-of broadwise about 45%.This fabric can contain based on every square metre of fabric gross weight 1%-5% weight ratio in the superpacket heart yarn as the Spandex fiber of elastomer.This elasticity skyteens fabric can be used to produce clothes.
Another jean example of producing with this innovative approach has 238g/m
2Or higher fabric weight, and its to wash post-shrinkage ratio be 10% or lower.This fabric can have the fabric cover of about 45%-of warp-wise about 70% and the about 30-of broadwise about 50%, and its weft direction stretch rate is about 10%-about 45%.This fabric can contain based on every square metre of fabric gross weight 0.3%-5% weight ratio in the superpacket heart yarn as the Spandex fiber of elastomer.This elasticity jean fabric can be used to produce jean.
The accompanying drawing summary
Describe the present invention in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in detail, wherein, identical Reference numeral is represented same parts:
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of core spinning drafting system;
Fig. 2 is the technological process of existing woven skyteens fabric production method;
Fig. 3 A is the technological process according to the woven skyteens fabric of the stretching, extension production method of the present invention's first specific embodiment;
Fig. 3 B is the technological process according to the elasticity jean fabric production method of the present invention's second specific embodiment;
Fig. 4 is the technological process of weaving skyteens fabric production method according to the stretching, extension of the present invention's second specific embodiment;
Fig. 5 is the technological process of weaving skyteens fabric production method according to the stretching, extension of the present invention's the 3rd specific embodiment.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
In a specific embodiment of method of the present invention, by the cladded yarn that the Spandex silvalin that uses low-titer and low drawing-off is made, the HEAT SETTING of (as shown in Figure 2) commonly used and dead twist operation can be cancelled in the existing fabric production method.We find: when the total draft of detected Spandex fiber in composite yarn is 1.5 times-2.7 times, can produce more sparse fabric, and fabric quality is improved, comprises cotton feel and air permeability and good.Need not HEAT SETTING just can produce and comprise and weigh less than 175g/m
2Smooth, neat fabric.In addition, the improvement of fabric treating aspect also may comprise the indigo dyeing that is easy to carry out cheese dyeing and jean.
Fig. 3 A has illustrated and has stretched first specific embodiment of weaving skyteens fabric production method, identical figure notation is represented identical operation among Fig. 2 and Fig. 3 A, is different and the figure notation among Fig. 3 A has letter " a " with the enforcement of emphasizing its core spinning operation, and the characteristic of processed cladded yarn is different in this first specific embodiment.Referring to Fig. 3 A, a kind of elastomer and a kind of hard fibre form cladded yarn 10a by the core spinning process combination, and this hard fibre is cotton in the drawings.
Elastomer can be the Spandex fiber, only is drawing to 1.5 times-2.7 times of original length when core spinning.Compare with core spinning technology with existing fabric, this is a lower drafting multiple scope.1.5 doubly-2.7 times drawing-off value scope is the total draft of Spandex fiber, it comprises all drawing-offs or the stretching of Spandex fiber in the finished product supply wound yarn.Be called as package lax " PR " from the remaining drawing-off in the spinning process, to being used for the Spandex fiber of weaven goods with composite yarn, remaining drawing-off is generally 0.05-0.15.Therefore the total draft of Spandex fiber is MD* (1+PR) in this composite yarn, and wherein " MD " is the comprehensive mechanical drawing-off.As shown in Figure 1, this comprehensive mechanical drawing-off can calculate according to the velocity rate of preliminary roller 42 and feed rolls 46.
Because the stress-strain characteristics of Spandex fiber, the drawing-off degree of Spandex silvalin can increase along with the increase of suffered tension force; Otherwise yarn tension also can increase along with the increase of drawing-off degree.If the total draft of Spandex fiber surpasses 2.7 times in the composite yarn, yarn can have high retraction force, may cause producing jammed or fabric construction closely.On the contrary, if the total draft of Spandex fiber is lower than 1.5 times in the composite yarn, this weaven goods possibly can't produce enough stretching, extensions to satisfy the requirement to comfortableness.
In Fig. 3 A, compound core-spun elastic yarn through coiling 14a, reel 18a, kiering and/or bleaching and dyeing 16a again, and for weaving the 18a of coiling again that 20a prepares.Different with the typical yarn treatment step in the method shown in Figure 2, the compound core-spun elastic yarn in the production method of the present invention is not through dead twist.
Cladded yarn after the processing is made into fabric 20a.This compound core-spun elastic yarn is preferably weaved the skyteens fabric as weft yarn.This compound core-spun elastic yarn also can be used for warp-wise, although more common as warp thread with non-stretch yarn.After weaving, the fabric of making has sufficient extensibility and cotton feel and need not HEAT SETTING.This fabric even under the situation of no HEAT SETTING, have shrinkage factor less than 10%.Different with the conventional yarn treatment step in the method shown in Figure 2, the stretching, extension Woven fabric in the production method of the present invention does not pass through HEAT SETTING.This fabric can carry out post processing according to the conventional method in the industry in addition, for example, and destarch 22a as shown in Figure 3, kiering (scouring) and/or bleaching and dyeing 24a, and shiinkproof finish 28a.
Representational hard yarn comprises the yarn made from natural fabric and synthetic fiber.Natural fabric can be cotton, silk or wool.Synthetic fiber can be that nylon, polyester or nylon or polyester mix with natural fabric.
Make being used to of a kind of routine that to stretch the superpacket heart yarn of weaving the skyteens fabric be to be elastomer and to be that hard fibre or hard yarn coat the Spandex fiber with the cotton fiber with the Spandex fiber.The Spandex fibre number can be the 17-33 dtex, for example the 22-33 dtex.In this composite yarn, the draw ratio of Spandex fiber is maintained at about 2.7 times or still less.When hard fibre or hard yarn were cotton, the English count Ne of this hard yarn can be that about 20-is about 80, for example about 30-about 60.
Include the composite yarn of making by Spandex fiber and cotton fiber in the stretching fabric of commercial use such as the skyteens fabric,, when making fabric, can not carry out HEAT SETTING when the draw ratio of Spandex fiber is maintained at about 2.7 times or still less the time.The weight percent content of representing Spandex fiber in the fabric is about 5% for about 1.5%-, for example about 2%-about 4%.For this fabric, the fabric cover that characterizes the shirt structure opening is that the about 45%-of warp-wise is about 70%, and conventional value 55% and the about 30%-of broadwise are about 50%, and the routine value is 40%, and this coefficient is represented the degree of rarefication of skyteens fabric construction.The weft direction stretch rate of this fabric is about 45% for about 10%-, comprises about 15%-about 45% and about 20%-35%.
The draw ratio of elastomer when carrying out core spinning with hard fibre can change according to its fiber number.A kind of suitable fabric can be that about 44 dtexs or about 3.5 times cladded yarn littler, that drafting multiple is original length are made by the elastomer fiber number.Another kind of suitable yarn comprises: its elastomer fiber number is about 33 dtexs or littler, comprises 22 dtexs or littler, and draw ratio is about 3.2 times of original length; With its elastomer fiber number be about 22 dtexs or littler, draw ratio is about 2.7 times or littler.
By cancellation elevated temperature heat shaping process 26, the thermal burn that new method can reduce special fiber (being cotton fiber) decreases, and therefore can improve the feel and the style of finished product fabric.Another advantage is: new method can be used the hard yarn of heat sensitivity is made elasticity skyteens fabric, thereby has increased the possibility of producing different improved products.In addition, the cancellation operation has at first shortened the production time and has improved productivity ratio.
For many final uses, the composite yarn that contains the Spandex fiber need dye before weaving.Cheese dyeing is to handle the simple and the most most economical method of composite yarn.For the composite yarn of forming by cotton and elastomer, carry out the cheese dyeing processing and may have problem.Particularly the elasticity heart yarn will bounce back under hot water temperature's effect of cheese dyeing.In addition, it is very tight that the composite yarn in the package will shrink and become, thereby stop dye solution to flow to into yarn package inside.This usually causes yarn to have the color of the different depths and different percentage elongations according to its radial position in dyeing package.Sometimes adopt rouleau dress composite yarn to dye and alleviate this problem.Yet because need extra packing and processing requirements, the dyeing of rouleau dress is more expensive relatively.
We find that the Spandex fiber with low draw ratio in the present invention's first specific embodiment makes that the Spandex fiber/cotton superpacket heart yarn shows better in dyeing process.This yarn does not have excessive convergent force in package, otherwise may produce high package density and then cause uneven dyeing.Therefore method of the present invention does not need particular design cone and special operational just can carry out the tapered bobbin dyeing yarn to the composite elastic cladded yarn.
The skyteens fabric is weaved in this novel stretching, extension can have good cotton feel.It is better that it has the sense of touch and the drapability of softness, nature.Traditional common elasticity of stretching, extension Woven fabric is too big and the synthetic textiles sense is too strong.
We find that also the Spandex fiber/cotton superpacket heart yarn shows better to make than the Spandex fiber of low draw ratio in specific embodiment of the present invention in the indigo dyeing operation.This yarn does not have extra retraction force in the indigo dyeing operation, the warp thread yarn sheet when this retraction force can cause weaving is irregular.
Fig. 3 B has shown the present invention's application technology step in the jean indigo dyeing.Should can adopt the mode of rope dyeing, Sizing machines dyeing and beam dyeing to carry out indigo dyeing by low drawing-off composite yarn.
Another benefit of stretching, extension Woven fabric in some specific embodiment is to have increased gas permeability.Because the NEW TYPE OF COMPOSITE stretch yarn has lower retraction force, the stretching, extension Woven fabric of making and the stretching, extension of routine are weaved the skyteens fabric and are compared and have more loose structure.These characteristics make fabric can have higher gas permeability and sensuously breathe unobstructed more.Owing to have higher gas permeability, dress can feel more comfortable with the people of the clothes that this skyteens fabric is made.
In second specific embodiment of the present invention, HEAT SETTING and yarn setting operation in the existing fabric production method (as shown in Figure 2) can be cancelled, and replace by before weaving this superpacket heart yarn being carried out preliminary treatment with high-temperature steam.
The composite elastic yarn that contains the Spandex fiber usually will pass through steam treatment in warping or before weaving in autoclave.The common purpose of this operation is to reduce the activity of composite yarn.Be commonly called steam shaping or dead twist.Yarn is through behind the steam shaping, and its entanglement tendency will weaken, thereby gives the better DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of yarn and guarantee that it has better performance in weaving.Under these process conditions, the Spandex fiber can only may be recovered in arranging process subsequently by " typing " its strength of " being freezed " temporarily.
We find when traditional Spandex fiber composite yarn in autoclave with about 110 ℃-when Yue 140 ℃ temperature was carried out steam pre-treatment, the potential drawing-off level of yarn reached about 20%-about 40%.Fig. 4 is the technological process of production method in second specific embodiment.Identical figure notation is represented identical operation among Fig. 2,3 and 4.Is different and the figure notation among Fig. 4 has letter " b " with the steam shaping operation of emphasizing superpacket heart yarn in second specific embodiment, and the characteristic of processed cladded yarn is different.
Referring to Fig. 4, a kind of elastomer and a kind of hard fibre or hard yarn carry out core spinning and make cladded yarn 10, and this hard yarn is cotton yarn in Fig. 4.Different with the method for first specific embodiment shown in Figure 3, coat in the operation at core spinning, stretch yarn can drawing-off level routinely carry out drawing-off, for example 3.5 times-3.8 times.
Subsequently this cladded yarn is carried out steam shaping 32 preliminary treatment.Preferably use the two-wheeled steam shaping: first round steam shaping → application of vacuum → second taken turns steam shaping.Vapor (steam) temperature can be about 110 ℃-Yue 140 ℃.The steam shaping time can be depended on the package size.For example, for the composite yarn cop of about 80 grams-100 grammes per square metres, the first round and second takes turns the steam shaping time and can be respectively about 6 minutes-Yue 8 minutes and about 16 minutes-Yue 20 minutes.For the cheese of 1 kilogram weight, the first round and second is taken turns steam shaping may need 20 minutes and 60 minutes respectively.Through above-mentioned steam shaping preliminary treatment, the potential percentage elongation of composite yarn can become with first specific embodiment in the potential percentage elongation of the yarn produced of disclosed low drawing-off method closely similar.
After the steam shaping preliminary treatment, composite yarn can carry out the PROCESS FOR TREATMENT of industry routine.Its operation example is referring to Fig. 4.This composite yarn through coiling 14b, reel 18b, kiering and/or bleaching, dyeing 16b, the 18b that reels again again, and be made into the skyteens fabric.This composite yarn is preferably as weft yarn.Except not needing to carry out HEAT SETTING, this fabric is handled with the technology of industry routine as required.As shown in Figure 4, this fabric can pass through singe 21b, destarch 22b, kiering and/or bleaching and dyeing 24b, and shiinkproof finish 28b, but shows good hand feeling, low-shrinkage and air permeability and good-respiratory with the fabric that this yarn is made.
Vapor (steam) temperature when changing steam shaping preliminary treatment (operation 32 among Fig. 4) can change the potential percentage elongation level of yarn.This has just formed a kind of yarn of making to cooperate the different Fabric Style and the method for tissue.The advantage of this new method is that cost is low.Compare with existing method, new method can be used the Spandex fiber at 40 dawn-70 dawn and use higher draw ratio when making described yarn in composite yarn.
After the steam shaping preliminary treatment, the extra retraction force of elastic force composite yarn is reduced.In weaving operation subsequently, this yarn shows more as if the cotton yarn of rigidity.It is easier carries out yarn dyeing (the operation 16b among Fig. 4) and weaves (the operation 20b among Fig. 4).This fabric will be not in back arrangement retraction outside can amount, this has reduced the generation of cloth cover pleat trace.In addition, although the producer can select fabric is carried out HEAT SETTING, HEAT SETTING is optional.It can also provide the low elongation with better cotton feel and the fabric of low growth.At spinning process, do not need to adopt special measure.
Preferably about 110 ℃-Yue 135 ℃ of the steam shaping temperature of composite yarn.For common Spandex fiber, the steam shaping temperature is about 116 ℃-Yue 135 ℃, but for the high Spandex fiber of HEAT SETTING efficient, for example 563 type Lycras
Spandex fiber, its steam shaping temperature are about 112 ℃-Yue 116 ℃.
In the 3rd specific embodiment of the present invention, HEAT SETTING and the yarn setting operation commonly used in the existing fabric production method (as shown in Figure 2) can be cancelled, and by in dyeing with before weaving the superpacket heart yarn being carried out the preliminary treatment replacement with hot water.Fig. 5 is the process chart of production method in the present invention's the 3rd specific embodiment.Identical figure notation is represented identical operation among Fig. 2,3,4 and 5.Is different and the figure notation among Fig. 5 has letter " c " with the pretreatment process of emphasizing superpacket heart yarn in the 3rd specific embodiment, and the characteristic of processed cladded yarn is different.Referring to Fig. 5, a kind of elastomer and a kind of hard fibre or hard yarn (being cotton in Fig. 5) carry out core spinning and make cladded yarn 10.Different with the method for first specific embodiment shown in Figure 3, in the core spinning operation, stretch yarn can drawing-off level routinely carry out drawing-off, for example the Spandex fiber of 30-40 DENIER is carried out 3.0 times-4.0 times drawing-off.
Then the superpacket heart yarn carries out preliminary treatment in hot water 42.In preparation of yarns such as for example kiering, bleaching and dyeing and dyeing process composite yarn being carried out hot water treatment is common operating technology.Yet in most cases, the temperature of these usual operations can be above 100 ℃.We are surprised to find that: comprise under the about 110 ℃-Yue 132 ℃ temperature and the retraction force of yarn can be reduced to the desired level of stretching fabric of weaving in about 5 minutes-Yue 30 minutes with hot water treatment composite elastic yarn at about 110 ℃-Yue 140 ℃.Through such hot water typing preliminary treatment, the potential percentage elongation of yarn is about 40% for about 20%-, and this is with closely similar with potential percentage elongation of the yarn of disclosed low drafting method production in first specific embodiment.
Can use conventional yarn package dyeing machine to carry out this hot water typing.Should keep low pump pressure for obtaining uniform treatment effect.Usually the pressure of 15-25 pound/square inch is applicable to that great majority contain the composite yarn of 40-70 DENIER Spandex fiber.Bypass valve should be adjusted to and make the pressure differential of inside and outside liquid stream is 5-10 pound/square inch (35-69 thousand kPa).Accepted standard two-way liquid stream will guarantee the even distribution of heat in package in the normal dyeing technology.In some instances, can mainly use from inside to outside liquid stream or liquid from outside to inside to flow.
Can control the potential percentage elongation of yarn by changing water temperature.This has just formed a kind of yarn of making to cooperate the different Fabric Style and the method for tissue, and it has cost advantage.The equipment that the hot water typing is used is the known equipment of those skilled in the art.For example, can use the Burlington 6# yarn package dyeing machine of the Gaston County Dyeing Machine Co. production of Burlington Engineering Company and North Carolina State.
The used typing water temperature of this composite yarn preferably should be about 116 ℃-Yue 135 ℃ and comprise about 116 ℃-Yue 127 ℃ that the processing time is about 5 minutes-Yue 30 minutes.For the composite elastic yarn made from 40 conventional dawn-70 dawn Spandex fibers, setting temperature comprises about 116 ℃-Yue 127 ℃ for preferably about 121 ℃-Yue 135 ℃.For with 563 type Lycras
The composite elastic yarn that the Spandex fiber is made, setting temperature comprises about 116 ℃-Yue 121 ℃ for preferably about 116 ℃-Yue 130 ℃.
Handle through damp and hot typing, can eliminate the extra retraction force of Spandex fiber composite yarn.This composite yarn has the outward appearance and the characteristic of conventional yarn usually.In the operation of back, this composite yarn shows more as if the cotton yarn of rigidity.
With reference to figure 5, handle this hot water typing composite yarn again according to method conventional in the industry.It among Fig. 5 exemplary processing step.This composite yarn through coiling 14c, reel 18c, kiering and/or bleaching, dyeing 16c, the 18c that reels again again, and be woven 20c and become the skyteens fabric.In the example of a skyteens fabric, this composite yarn is used as weft yarn.Except not needing to carry out HEAT SETTING, this fabric is handled with the common process of the industry as required.As shown in Figure 5, this fabric can pass through singe 21c, destarch 22c, kiering and/or bleaching and dyeing 24c, and shiinkproof finish 28c, but shows good hand feeling, low-shrinkage and air permeability and good-respiratory with the fabric that this yarn is made.
In yarn dyeing and finishing process 16c and weaving process 20c, can use the composite yarn in this specific embodiment more easily.Yarn wet lax and weave after housekeeping operation in can produce elongation again.Fabric is the not contraction outside the amount when putting in order, can reduce cloth cover pleat trace like this.Do not need to carry out the fabric HEAT SETTING.It can provide the low elongation with better cotton feel and the fabric of low growth rate equally.
We find the degree of rarefication of fabric construction stretching, extension is weaved the skyteens fabric quality index influence highly significant.If the fabric construction on the loom is too sparse, fabric may recurring structure instability and excess elongation.If the fabric construction on the loom is too tight, fabric possibly can't produce enough elongations.The degree of rarefication of fabric can represent with " fabric cover ", and it has determined yarn to occupy or the degree of covering fabric." fabric cover " measures the percentage that the yarn radical that is arranged side by side accounts for its maximum yarn radical that can be arranged side by side.Because the retraction force of stretch yarn is reduced among the present invention, the fabric with more sparse structure can not become closely jammed through behind the arranging process.Fabric construction is sparse more, and the weight of fabric is just light more, gas permeability is good more, and has the cotton feel more.
We find: the warp-wise fabric cover that adopts the conventional stretching, extension of ratio to weave the low about 6%-about 10% of skyteens fabric on loom can obtain effect preferably.For plain cloth, preferred fabric cover can be that the about 45%-of warp-wise is about 70%, and its conventional value can be about 55%; The about 30%-of broadwise is about 50%, and its conventional value can be about 40%.
Detection method:
The potential percentage elongation of yarn
Core-spun elastic yarn under the tension force of about 0.1 gram/DENIER with standard-sized reeling frame shake get 50 the circle.The length of one loop yarn is 1365mm.The yarn bundle is destarch 10 minutes in 100 ℃ water under tension-free state.The yarn bundle dries in air, and puts in order 16 hours under 20 ℃ ± 2 ℃ of temperature, relative humidity 65% ± 2% condition.
Folding to make its thickness 4 times be original 16 times with the yarn bundle.Yarn bundle after folding is placed on the tension tester.It is 1000 gram forces three times that the yarn bundle is stretched to load.When stretching for the third time, the length of yarn bundle under the 0.04kg load is designated as L
1, the length under the 1kg load is designated as L
0The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of yarn calculates as follows:
Potential percentage elongation (YPS) %=(L
0-L
1)/L
0* 100
Fabric extension rate (extensibility)
Fabric is to measure its percentage elongation % at prolonging direction under the specific load (being pulling force), and prolonging direction is the direction of composite yarn (warp thread, weft yarn or warp thread and weft yarn).Three cloth specimens that are of a size of 60cm * 6.5cm of clip from the fabric.The corresponding prolonging direction of long yardstick (60cm).Pull down the part yarn of cloth specimen, make its width be reduced to 5.0cm.Then cloth specimen was put in order 16 hours under 20 ℃ ± 2 ℃ of temperature, relative humidity 65% ± 2% condition at least.
Each cloth specimen apart from cloth specimen one end 6.5cm place for running through first datum line of cloth specimen width, be second datum line that runs through the cloth specimen width apart from the first datum line 50.0cm place.Exceed second datum line and be stitched into the cloth cover, wherein can insert a Metallic rod to the part of the cloth specimen other end.Put at cloth and to open a gap, can fasten counterweight to Metallic rod like this.
Clamp that cloth specimen does not have an end of cloth cover and with the cloth specimen vertical hanging.Fasten the counterweight of heavy 30 newton (6.75 pounds) for the Metallic rod that penetrates in the cloth cover that hangs the cloth specimen that gets up, cloth specimen can extend under the Weight gravity effect like this.Cloth specimen " is tempered (exercised) " like this: allow cloth specimen stretch 3 seconds through Weight gravity, manually lift counterweight removal pulling force again.Three times so repeatedly.Allow counterweight freely hang the stretching cloth specimen again.Under load condition be the spacing that two datum lines of cloth specimen are measured by unit, be designated as ML with the millimeter.Primary leading between two datum lines (spacing when being unstretched) is designated as GL.Calculate the fabric extension rate % of each cloth specimen as follows:
% percentage elongation (E%)=((ML-GL)/GL) * 100
The mean value of getting these three cloth specimen percentage elongation results is final percentage elongation result.
Fabric growth rate (can not reply percentage elongation)
The fabric of zero growth can just in time retract to the original length before stretching after stretched.Yet, typically stretch Woven fabric and can not bounce back fully after stretched but become longer slightly.Slight increase on this length is called as " increasing (growth) ".
Above mentioned fabric extension rate detects and should carry out before growth rate detects.Only carry out this detection in the fabric extension direction.Then on both direction, all detect for two-way stretching, extension Woven fabric.3 cloth specimens of clip from the fabric, every 55.0cm * 6.0cm.This cloth specimen is different with the cloth specimen during the fabric extension rate detects.55.0cm length direction should be corresponding with prolonging direction.Pull down the part yarn of cloth specimen, make its width be reduced to 5.0cm.Cloth specimen with temperature and humidity conditions identical during the above-mentioned fabrics percentage elongation detects under put in order.Run through the cloth specimen width draw two just in time at a distance of 50cm datum line.
Calculate the length of cloth specimen when 80% extends with the percentage elongation % (E%) that from the fabric extension rate detects, obtains.Computational methods are:
E (length) at 80%=(E%/100) * 0.80 * L
Wherein L is the primary leading (being 50.0cm) of two datum lines.Clamping cloth specimen two ends also equal its spacing that is stretched to two datum lines to L+E (length), and E (length) calculates by top formula.Kept extended state 30 minutes, and discharged pulling force then and cloth specimen freely is hung relax.Calculate growth rate % after 60 minutes as follows:
Growth rate %=(L
2* 100)/L
L wherein
2Be the value added of lax back two the datum line spacings of cloth specimen, L is two primary leadings between the datum line.Detect the growth rate of each cloth specimen and average to determine the growth rate numerical value of fabric.
Fabric shrinkage
Fabric shrinkage is to detect after washing.Fabric at first detect with above-mentioned percentage elongation and the growth rate detection in put in order under the identical temperature and humidity conditions.Two cloth specimens of clip from the fabric (60cm * 60cm).The clamping selvedge is the part of 15cm at least.On cloth specimen, mark the square frame that four length of sides are 40cm * 40cm.
Cloth specimen and filling fabric one are reinstated the washing machine washing.The total load of washing machine should be the material of dry weight 2kg in the air, and detected cloth specimen amount should not surpass half of washings.Gently washing and agitator treating thing under 40 ℃ of water temperatures.According to hardness of water, can add washing agent by the consumption of 1 grams per liter-3 grams per liter.Cloth specimen is layered on the plane dries, arrangement 16 hours under 20 ℃ ± 2 ℃ of temperature, relative humidity 65% ± 2% condition then.
Measure the shrinkage factor of fabric by the spacing of measurement markers subsequently in warp-wise and broadwise.Calculate as follows and wash post-shrinkage ratio C%:
C％＝((L
2-L
1)/L
1)×100
L wherein
1Be the primary leading (40cm) of mark, L
2It is the spacing after drying.Testing result is the mean value of each cloth specimen testing result and provides detected value on, latitude both direction.Shrinkage factor numerical value is that positive number represents that elongation has taken place fabric, because the effect of hard yarn, this is contingent in some instances.
Fabric cover
" fabric cover " measures the percentage that the actual radical of the yarn that is arranged side by side accounts for its maximum yarn radical that can be arranged side by side.Calculate by the following method:
Maximum yarn and thread head number is closely not have in the overlapping fabric construction of yarn the yarn radical that can be arranged side by side on fabric one inchage.Yarn coverage coefficient (YCF) mainly by yarn diameter or number decision, can be expressed as:
The major part number of yarn/inch=CCF* (yam count, NeN
e) ^
0.5
CCF refers to tight coverage coefficient (compact cover factor).For 100% RING SPINNING cotton yarn, its CCF value is confirmed as 28.Yam count is represented the fineness of yarn.It equals the multiple of relative 840 code lengths of length of the yarn of 1 pound weight.When yam count increased, its fineness also increased thereupon.
Fabric weight
Punch die stamping-out with diameter 10cm goes out the fabric cloth specimen.The grammes per square metre of the cloth specimen that every of weighing cuts out.Then with gram/square metre be unit calculating " fabric weight ".
Embodiment:
Following examples have been showed the present invention and can be used for making the ability of multiple lightweight weaven goods.The present invention can have other different embodiment, and can revise details aspect obvious a plurality of, does not depart from the scope of the present invention simultaneously and spirit.So these embodiment are exemplary and not restrictive in essence.
Below among nine embodiment each all use 100% RING SPINNING cotton yarn as warp thread.100% cotton yarn that warp-wise uses will pass through sizing before warping.Use Suzuki (Suzuki) Sizing machines of singing to carry out sizing.Use the PVA slurry.The slurry bath temperature is about 42 ℃, and the baking zone air themperature is about 88 ℃.Sizing speed is about 300 yards/minute (276 meters/minute).Yarn is about 5 minutes at the residence time of baking zone.
Lycra
Spandex fiber/cotton superpacket heart yarn is used as weft yarn.Table 1 has been listed the raw materials for production and the process conditions of cladded yarn among each embodiment.Lycra
The Spandex fiber can be from Invista S. à r.L., of Wilmington, DE and Wichita, KS.For example, show that with the tabulation of one headed by " Spandex fiber 40d " fiber number is the Spandex fiber of 40 DENIER; T162 or T563B represent can be from the Lycra of commercial channel acquisition
Fiber type; 3.5 * expression Lycra
The drafting multiple that fiber is applied by core spinning frame (mechanical commutation draft).For example, in the row of one headed by " hard yarn ", the 40th, this yarn is with English count (N
e) expression line density.Other clauses and subclauses in the table 1 are clearly indicated.
Produce the stretching, extension Woven fabric with the cladded yarn among each embodiment in the table 1 subsequently.This cladded yarn is used as weft yarn.Table 2 has been summed up yarn types, fabric tissue and the quality index of fabric.Below provided more speaking more of each embodiment bright.Unless note is arranged in addition, this skyteens fabric is produced with many Neils (Donier) air-jet loom.Loom speed be 500 latitudes/minute.Its fabric width is being respectively about 76 inches or about 72 inches (about 193cm or about 183cm) on the loom and under the grey cloth state.
Grey cloth among each embodiment all at first carries out three destarch with 71 ℃, 82 ℃, 94 ℃ hot water respectively under the low-tension state handles.
Then, every fabric is with 3.0% weight ratio
64 (Sybron Inc.) were 49 ℃ of following pre-kierings 10 minutes.Use 6.0% weight ratio subsequently
(Dooley Chemicals.LLC Inc.) and 2.0% weight ratio
LFH (E.I.Dupont Co.) is 71 ℃ of following destarch 30 minutes, uses 3.0% weight ratio then
64,0.5% weight ratio
LFH and 0.5% weight ratio tertiary sodium phosphate 82 ℃ of following kierings 30 minutes.Use 3.0% weight ratio subsequently
64, the sodium metasilicate of 35% hydrogen peroxide of 15% weight ratio and 3.0% weight ratio was bleached 60 minutes under pH value 9.5,82 ℃ of conditions of temperature.Under 93 ℃, carry out jet flow dyeing in 30 minutes with black or navy blue direct dyes again behind the fabric bleaching.These skyteens fabrics do not carry out HEAT SETTING.
Table 1
Table 2
| Embodiment | Weft yarn | Warp thread (Ne 100% cotton) | Fabric tissue | Secret degree on the fabric (warp thread EPI * weft yarn PPI) | Finished product fabric width (cm) | Fabric weight (g/m 2) | Fabric extension rate % | Fabric growth rate % | Fabric shrinkage (warp thread % * weft yarn %) | Gas permeability (CFM) | Fabric cover (warp thread % * weft yarn % |
| 1C | 40Ne cotton/3.5 times of drawing-off cladded yarns of 40 dawn Lycras | 80/2 | Plain weave | 96×70 | 120 | 194 | 64 | 4.2 | 1.3×7.3 | 4.19 | 54×40 |
| 2 | 50Ne cotton/1.5 times of drawing-off cladded yarns of 20 dawn Lycras | 80/2 | Plain weave | 96×70 | 164 | 122 | 20 | 8.2 | 1.6×3.6 | 22.3 | 54×36 |
| 3 | 50Ne cotton/1.5 times of drawing-off cladded yarns of 20 dawn Lycras | 40 | OXFORD | 96×70 | 138 | 131 | 29 | 8.2. | 0.6×4.0 | 33.7 | 54×35 |
| 4 | 50Ne cotton/1.5 times of drawing-off cladded yarns of 20 dawn Lycras | 40 | 2/1 twill | 96×70 | 146 | 130 | 22 | 5.8 | 1.3×4.4 | 37.1 | 54×35 |
| 5 | 50Ne cotton/1.5 times of drawing-off cladded yarns of 20 dawn Lycras | 40 | 3/1 twill | 96×70 | 152 | 140 | 32 | 7.6 | 2.4×3.0 | 49.1 | 54×35 |
| 6 | 50Ne cotton/1.5 times of drawing-off cladded yarns of 20 dawn Lycras | 50 | Plain weave | 115×75 | 165 | 115 | 25 | 6.8 | 0.8×0.5 | 59.8 | 58×38 |
| 7 | 40Ne cotton/110 ℃ of steam shapings of 3.5 times of drawing-off cladded yarns of 40 dawn Lycras | 40 | Plain weave | 96×70 | 157 | 144 | 22 | 8 | 1.7×3.3 | 11.6 | 54×40 |
| 8 | 40Ne cotton/40 dawn Lycras 3.5 | 40 | Plain weave | 96×70 | 152 | 148 | 33 | 10 | 1.7×3.2 | 10.6 | 54×40 |
| 121 ℃ of hot water typings of times drawing-off cladded yarn | |||||||||||
| 9C | 40Ne cotton/132 ℃ of steam shapings of 3.5 times of drawing-off cladded yarns of 40 dawn Lycras | 40 | Plain weave | 96×70 | 175 | 122 | 6 | 2.2 | 2.3×0.7 | 48.5 | 54×40 |
Embodiment 1C: conventional elasticity skyteens fabric
This is a Comparative Examples, is not the fabric of producing according to the present invention.Its warp thread is a 80/2Ne RING SPINNING cotton yarn.Weft yarn is 40Ne cotton/40 dawn Lycras
Cladded yarn.Lycra
The drafting multiple of fiber in core spinning is 3.5 times.This weft yarn is that conventional the stretching, extension weaved normally used stretch yarn in the skyteens fabric, and its potential percentage elongation (YPS) is 61%.Loom speed be 500 latitudes/minute, filling density is 70 pieces/inch.Summed up testing result in the table 2.Testing result shows: after arrangement, and the heavier (194g/m of fabric weight
2), elasticity excessive (64%), fabric width narrow (120cm), broadwise washing shrinkage height (7.3%) and gas permeability low (4.19cfm (cubic feet/per minute)).All these data show: the combination of this stretch yarn and fabric construction has caused the big and shrinkage factor height of fabric weight.Therefore, this fabric must reduce fabric weight through HEAT SETTING, the control shrinkage factor, and increase gas permeability.In addition, the coarse and shortage cotton feel of this fabric feeling.
Embodiment 2: elasticity poplin cloth skyteens
This fabric sample have with embodiment 1C in identical fabric construction.The stretch yarn that unique difference has been to use low elasticity is as weft yarn: 20 dawn Lycras
Fiber carries out 1.5 times of drawing-offs according to the present invention's first specific embodiment.Warp thread is a 80/2Ne RING SPINNING cotton yarn.Weft yarn is 50Ne cotton/20 dawn Lycras
Cladded yarn.The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this weft yarn is 21%.Loom speed be 500 latitudes/minute, filling density is 70 pieces/inch.Summed up testing result in the table 2.Light (the 122g/m of this fabric sample weight
2), good springiness (20%), fabric width broad (164cm), broadwise washing shrinkage low (3.6%) and good permeability (22.3cfm (cubic feet/per minute)).Fabric need not to carry out HEAT SETTING.Appearance of fabrics and feel also make moderate progress than the product among the embodiment 1C.
Embodiment 3: elasticity oxford dress material
Warp thread is a 40Ne100% RING SPINNING cotton yarn.Weft yarn is 50Ne cotton/20 dawn T563B type Lycras
Cladded yarn (employing) as 1.5 times in the present invention's first specific embodiment low multiple drawing-offs.The potential percentage elongation of this stretch yarn is 31.7%.Last secret degree with 70 pieces/inch inweaves fabric as weft yarn.Adopt the OXFORD fabric tissue.Light (the 131g/m of finished product fabric weight
2), need not HEAT SETTING, the grain cross percentage elongation be 29% and the broadwise washing shrinkage be 4.0%.This fabric is that the skyteens fabric is weaved in desirable stretching, extension.
Embodiment 4: elasticity 2/1 twill skyteens
This fabric adopts warp thread and the weft yarn identical with embodiment 3.Weave also identically with embodiment 3 with finishing process, but its fabric tissue is 2/1 twill.Summed up the testing result of this fabric in the table 2.This sample has suitable fabric weight (130g/m
2), good springiness (22%), fabric width broad (146cm) and gratifying broadwise washing shrinkage (4.4%) need not HEAT SETTING, and the outward appearance of fabric and feel are very good.
Embodiment 5: elasticity 3/1 twill skyteens
Warp thread is a 40Ne100% RING SPINNING cotton yarn.Weft yarn is 50Ne cotton/20 dawn Lycras
Cladded yarn, Lycra
Fiber adopts as 1.5 times in the present invention's first specific embodiment low multiple drawing-offs.Loom speed be 500 latitudes/minute, filling density is 70 pieces/inch.Listed the testing result of finished product fabric in the table 2.Sample has further confirmed to use low stretch yarn to need not special treatment just can produce high performance elasticity skyteens.Basic fabrics's weight of this fabric sample is (140g/m
2), have available elasticity (32%), fabric width (152cm) and broadwise washing shrinkage (3.0%), be suitable as skyteens.
Embodiment 6: look is knitted striped shirt dress material fabric
Weft yarn is 50Ne cotton/20 dawn Lycras
The Spandex fabric core-spun yarn, Lycra
Fiber adopts as 1.5 times in the present invention's first specific embodiment low multiple drawing-offs.Warp thread is a 50Ne100% RING SPINNING cotton yarn.Before weaving, the elastic force weft yarn is earlier through the package preliminary treatment, comprises again coiling, kiering, bleaching and reels again.Through preliminary treatment, yarn package still has good form.Before weaving, warp thread also forms color fringe through dyeing and at the fabric warp-wise earlier.After weaving, form grey cloth at last through continuous arrangement workshop section.The finishing technique route is: prepare workshop section → arrangement workshop section → shiinkproof finish.Preparing workshop section, fabric will through singing, destarch, kiering, mercerising and dyeing process.In arrangement workshop section, fabric is carried out wrinkle resistant resin of first liner and softener before the RESIN FINISH.In the finished product fabric, the thread count of cotton yarn is 147 pieces/inch * 80 pieces/inch, and the fabric basis weight is 115g/m
2, the warp-stretch rate is 25%.The shrinkage factor of fabric is very low: be warp-wise 0.8% and broadwise 0.5%.
Embodiment 7: the elasticity poplin cloth that contains the yarn of setting twist
Except weft yarn is 40Ne cotton/40 dawn Lycras
Cladded yarn and warp thread are 40Ne100% RING SPINNING cotton yarn, the fabric in the present embodiment have with embodiment 2 in identical warp thread and identical fabric construction.Lycra
Fiber is 3.5 times at the drafting multiple that core spinning coats in the operation.This yarn is typical core-spun elastic yarn.In the present embodiment, yarn carries out steam pre-treatment according to the present invention's second specific embodiment (as shown in Figure 4) in autoclave before weaving.Carry out the two-wheeled steam shaping altogether: first round steam shaping → application of vacuum → second taken turns steam shaping.Vapor (steam) temperature is about 110 ℃.It is 20 minutes and 30 minutes that the first round and second is taken turns the steam shaping time, and 20 minutes vacuum cycle of midfeather are handled.The potential percentage elongation that can see yarn from table 1 is 29%.In the steam shaping process, the excessive elastic force of yarn is subdued.The potential percentage elongation of the yarn that disclosed low draw ratio method is produced among its potential percentage elongation (YPS) and the embodiment 2-6 is very approaching.Listed the fabric property index in the table 2.The fabric made from this yarn shows good cotton feel, low broadwise shrinkage factor (3.3%), the fabric width (157cm) of good percentage elongation (22%) and broad.Fabric need not to carry out HEAT SETTING.
Embodiment 8: hot water preliminary treatment yarn
Except the pre-treatment step difference, the fabric in the present embodiment have with embodiment 7 in identical warp thread and fabric construction.It uses 40Ne cotton/40 dawn Lycras
Cladded yarn is as weft yarn.Lycra
The drafting multiple of fiber in the core spinning operation is 3.5 times.Before weaving, weft yarn is down used hot water treatment 20 minute at about 121 ℃ according to method as shown in Figure 5 in dyeing machine.After Overheating Treatment and oven dry, yarn is inweaved in the fabric as weft yarn.
The potential percentage elongation that can see yarn from table 1 is 39.7%.In the hot water type-approval process, the excessive elastic force of yarn is subdued.The potential percentage elongation of the yarn that its potential percentage elongation is produced near disclosed low draw ratio method among the embodiment 2-6 equally, and disclosed potential percentage elongation among the embodiment 7 through the pretreated yarn of steam shaping.
Listed the fabric property index in the table 2.The fabric made from this yarn shows good cotton feel, low-shrinkage (3.2%), the fabric width (152cm) of good percentage elongation (33%) and broad.Fabric need not to carry out HEAT SETTING.
Embodiment 9C: the skyteens fabric of elasticity minimum
This is a Comparative Examples, is not the fabric of producing according to the present invention.Fabric in this example have with embodiment 8 in identical fabric construction.Unique difference has been to use stretch yarn as weft yarn.This weft yarn carries out preliminary treatment in 132 ℃ are descended with vapours, after treatment, the potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this weft yarn only is 1.7%.Loom speed be 500 latitudes/minute, filling density is 70 pieces/inch.Summed up testing result in the table 2, this sample has low-down fabric extension rate (6%), and it can not satisfy the requirement of elasticity skyteens fabric to comfortableness.
Embodiment 10C: high potential percentage elongation yarn
This is a Comparative Examples, is not the fabric of producing according to the present invention.In this example, 44 dtex T563B type Lycras
The Spandex silvalin carries out core spinning with the 40Ne100% cotton yarn under 3.5 times of drawing-offs.Further do not handle.The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this yarn is 60.1%, and high must making us can not be accepted.
Embodiment 11C: Low Temperature Steam preliminary treatment yarn
This is a Comparative Examples, is not the fabric of producing according to the present invention.In this example, 44 dtex T162C type Lycras
The Spandex silvalin carries out core spinning with the 40Ne100% cotton yarn under 3.5 times of drawing-offs.Carrying out the two-wheeled time under 99 ℃ is respectively the steam treatment of 20 minutes and 30 minutes, and two-wheeled steam treatment midfeather is carried out 20 minutes vacuum cycle and handled.The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this yarn is 54.1%, and high must making us can not be accepted.This Comparative Examples has proved that the potential percentage elongation (YPS) that changes yarn needs higher steam treatment temperature.
Embodiment 12C: water at low temperature preliminary treatment yarn
This is a Comparative Examples, is not content of the present invention.In this example, 44 dtex T563B type Lycras
The Spandex silvalin carries out core spinning with the 40Ne100% cotton yarn under 3.5 times of drawing-offs.Use water treatment yarn 20 minutes down at 99 ℃.The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this yarn is 55.2%, and high must making us can not be accepted.This Comparative Examples has proved that the potential percentage elongation (YPS) that changes yarn needs higher water treatment temperature.
Embodiment 13: the steam pre-treatment yarn
In this example, 44 dtex T563B type Lycras
The Spandex silvalin carries out core spinning with the 40Ne100% cotton yarn under 3.5 times of drawing-offs.Under 121 ℃ yarn is carried out the two-wheeled time and be respectively the steam treatment of 20 minutes and 30 minutes, two-wheeled steam treatment midfeather is carried out 20 minutes vacuum cycle and is handled.The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this yarn is 10.0%.
Embodiment 14: the steam pre-treatment yarn
In this example, 44 dtex T162 type Lycras
The Spandex silvalin carries out core spinning with the 40Ne100% cotton yarn under 3.5 times of drawing-offs.Under 110 ℃, yarn is carried out the two-wheeled time and be respectively the steam treatment of 20 minutes and 30 minutes, carry out 20 minutes vacuum cycle in the middle of the two-wheeled steam treatment and handle.The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this yarn is 43.3%.
Embodiment 15: the steam pre-treatment yarn
In this example, 44 dtex T162 type Lycras
The Spandex silvalin carries out core spinning with the 40Ne100% cotton yarn under 3.5 times of drawing-offs.Under 121 ℃, yarn is carried out the two-wheeled time and be respectively the steam treatment of 20 minutes and 30 minutes, carry out 20 minutes vacuum cycle in the middle of the two-wheeled steam treatment and handle.The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this yarn is 37.4%.
Embodiment 16: the water pretreatment yarn
In this example, 44 dtex T563B type Lycras
The Spandex silvalin carries out core spinning with the 40Ne100% cotton yarn under 3.5 times of drawing-offs.Use water treatment yarn 20 minutes down at 132 ℃.The potential percentage elongation (YPS) of this yarn is 22.5%.
Claims (41)
1, a kind of manufacture method of stretching fabric comprises:
(a) elastomer and hard fibre are carried out core spinning to form compound core-spun elastic yarn, wherein, elastomer is drawing to about 3.5 times that are no more than original length when core spinning coats; With
(b) with this superpacket heart yarn Woven fabric, it is used as in warp thread or the weft yarn one at least; With
(c) further handle this fabric.
2, the method in the claim 1 wherein, is not carried out HEAT SETTING during implementation step (c).
3, the method in the claim 1, wherein, described elastomer is drawing to about 3.2 times that are no more than original length when core spinning coats.
4, the method in the claim 1, wherein, described elastomer is drawing to about 2.7 times that are no more than original length when core spinning coats.
5, the method in the claim 1, wherein, described elastomer is the naked yarn of Spandex fiber of about 156 dtexs of about 11-.
6, the method in the claim 1, wherein, described elastomer is the naked yarn of Spandex fiber of about 44 dtexs of about 11-.
7, the method in the claim 1, wherein, described hard fibre is that yam count is the hard yarn of the about 80Ne of about 10-.
8, the method in the claim 1, wherein, described hard fibre is that yam count is the hard yarn of the about 80Ne of about 10-.
9, the method in the claim 3, wherein, described hard yarn is a cotton yarn.
10, the method in the claim 1, wherein, described elastomer is the naked yarn of Spandex fiber of 17-78 dtex, and hard fibre is that yam count is the hard yarn of 7-60Ne, and this Spandex silvalin is drawing to 2.5 times that are no more than original length when core spinning coats.
11, the method in the claim 5, wherein, elastomer is that the naked yarn of Spandex fiber and the hard fibre of about 33 dtexs of about 17-is that yam count is the hard yarn of the about 60Ne of about 30-.
12, the method in the claim 1, wherein, composite elastic yarn can use at warp-wise or broadwise collocation with per 7 or still less hard yarn.
13, the method in the claim 1, wherein, further treatment process comprises from the one or more steps that comprise cleaning, bleaching, dyeing, oven dry, compacting, shiinkproof finish, singe, select the group of any cooperative programs of destarch, mercerising and these operations.
14, the stretching fabric made from the method in the claim 1.
15, the fabric in the claim 14, wherein, fabric cover is about 45%-of warp-wise about 70% and the about 30%-of broadwise about 50%.
16, the fabric in the claim 14, wherein, warp-wise or weft direction stretch rate are about 10%-about 45%.
17, the fabric in the claim 14, its fabric tissue are selected from the group that comprises plain weave, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill, OXFORD, poplin cloth, small jacquard, sateen, satin weave.
18, the fabric in the claim 14, wherein, elastomer is the Spandex fiber, and contains the Spandex fiber based on every square metre of fabric gross weight 1%-5% weight ratio in this fabric.
19, the clothes made from the stretching fabric in the claim 14.
20, a kind of manufacture method of elasticity skyteens fabric comprises:
(a) elastomer and hard fibre are carried out core spinning to form compound core-spun elastic yarn;
(b) with hot water or steam this compound core-spun elastic yarn is carried out preliminary treatment with at least 110 ℃ temperature in dyeing or before weaving;
(c) use this superpacket heart yarn to weave the skyteens fabric in broadwise; With
(d) further handle this fabric, do not carry out HEAT SETTING.
21, the method in the claim 20, wherein, preliminary treatment is to use steam treatment 6-60 minute in autoclave under 110 ℃-140 ℃ temperature.
22, the method in the claim 20, wherein, preliminary treatment is to use hot water treatment 5-30 minute in yarn package dyeing machine under 110 ℃-140 ℃ temperature.
23, the method in the claim 20, wherein, elastomer is that the naked yarn of Spandex fiber and the hard fibre of 22-156 dtex is that yam count is the hard yarn of 5-80Ne.
24, the method in the claim 20, wherein, elastomer is that the naked yarn of Spandex fiber and the hard fibre of about 78 dtexs of about 44-is that yam count is the hard yarn of 7-60Ne.
25, the method in the claim 24, wherein, hard yarn is a cotton yarn.
26, the method in the claim 20, wherein, composite elastic yarn can use at warp-wise or broadwise collocation with per 7 or still less hard yarn.
27, the method in the claim 20, wherein, further treatment process comprises from the one or more steps that comprise cleaning, bleaching, dyeing, oven dry, compacting, shiinkproof finish, singe, select the group of any cooperative programs of destarch, mercerising and these operations.
28, the stretching fabric made from the method in the claim 20.
29, the fabric in the claim 28, wherein, fabric cover is about 45%-about 70%.
30, the fabric in the claim 28, wherein, warp-wise or weft direction stretch rate are about 10%-about 45%.
31, the fabric in the claim 28, its fabric tissue are selected from the group that comprises plain weave, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill, OXFORD, poplin cloth, small jacquard, sateen, satin weave.
32, the fabric in the claim 28, wherein, elastomer is the Spandex fiber, and contains the Spandex fiber based on every square metre of fabric gross weight 0.2%-5% weight ratio in this fabric.
33, the clothes made from the stretching fabric in the claim 28.
34, a kind of goods that comprise fabric comprise the superpacket heart yarn in this fabric, and this combination cladded yarn comprises elastomer and hard fibre, wherein, elastomer when core spinning coats and described fabric be drawing to about 3.5 times that are no more than original length when being woven.
35, the goods in the claim 34, wherein, the fiber number of described elastic fibers is about 44 dtexs or littler.
36, the goods in the claim 34, wherein, the fiber number of described elastic fibers is that about 33 dtexs or littler and described elastomer are drawing to about 3.2 times that are no more than original length when core spinning coats.
37, the goods in the claim 36, wherein, the fiber number of described elastic fibers is about 22 dtexs or littler.
38, the goods in the claim 34, wherein, the fiber number of described elastic fibers is that about 22 dtexs or littler and described elastomer are drawing to about 2.7 times that are no more than original length when core spinning coats.
39, the goods in the claim 34, wherein, described fabric carried out about 45 seconds under 180 ℃ the temperature or the HEAT SETTING of time still less being lower than.
40, the goods in the claim 34, wherein, described fabric does not carry out HEAT SETTING.
41, the goods in the claim 34, wherein, the warp-wise of fabric or weft direction stretch rate are about 10%-about 45%.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNA2007101388565A CN101307523A (en) | 2007-05-16 | 2007-05-16 | Production method for stretching fabric containing spandex fiber and wiry yarn |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNA2007101388565A CN101307523A (en) | 2007-05-16 | 2007-05-16 | Production method for stretching fabric containing spandex fiber and wiry yarn |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN101307523A true CN101307523A (en) | 2008-11-19 |
Family
ID=40124180
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNA2007101388565A Pending CN101307523A (en) | 2007-05-16 | 2007-05-16 | Production method for stretching fabric containing spandex fiber and wiry yarn |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN101307523A (en) |
Cited By (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103243470A (en) * | 2013-04-28 | 2013-08-14 | 王胜利 | Spinning method and product of high-cotton-content high-elasticity wear-resistant cloth |
| CN103556366A (en) * | 2013-09-26 | 2014-02-05 | 浙江大港印染有限公司 | Cotton polyester interwoven spandex core-spun elastic fabric |
| CN103556367A (en) * | 2013-09-26 | 2014-02-05 | 浙江大港印染有限公司 | Spandex core-spun elastic fabric |
| CN103556348A (en) * | 2013-09-25 | 2014-02-05 | 宜兴新乐祺纺织印染有限公司 | Thick cotton viscose blended double-elasticity single-yarn drill fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN103556368A (en) * | 2013-09-26 | 2014-02-05 | 浙江大港印染有限公司 | Production method of cotton polyester interwoven spandex core-spun elastic fabric |
| CN105980617A (en) * | 2013-10-14 | 2016-09-28 | 英威达技术有限公司 | Stretch circular knit fabrics with multiple elastic yarns |
| CN107237179A (en) * | 2017-04-28 | 2017-10-10 | 芜湖富春染织股份有限公司 | A kind of cylinder yarn low aberration dyeing |
| CN107385720A (en) * | 2017-05-27 | 2017-11-24 | 芜湖富春染织股份有限公司 | A kind of processing method before scribbled dyeing |
| CN107613799A (en) * | 2015-06-02 | 2018-01-19 | Gsm（运营）有限公司 | Clothing especially suitable for water activity |
| CN112410964A (en) * | 2013-01-16 | 2021-02-26 | 服饰与高级纺织英国有限公司 | Drawn yarn and fabric with multiple elastic yarns |
| CN113062133A (en) * | 2021-05-15 | 2021-07-02 | 浙江世纪晨星纤维科技有限公司 | Strong-tinting-strength spandex composite covered yarn and preparation process thereof |
| CN114635223A (en) * | 2022-04-14 | 2022-06-17 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | High-count elastic jacquard fabric for knitted shirt and production process thereof |
-
2007
- 2007-05-16 CN CNA2007101388565A patent/CN101307523A/en active Pending
Cited By (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN112410964A (en) * | 2013-01-16 | 2021-02-26 | 服饰与高级纺织英国有限公司 | Drawn yarn and fabric with multiple elastic yarns |
| CN103243470A (en) * | 2013-04-28 | 2013-08-14 | 王胜利 | Spinning method and product of high-cotton-content high-elasticity wear-resistant cloth |
| CN103556348A (en) * | 2013-09-25 | 2014-02-05 | 宜兴新乐祺纺织印染有限公司 | Thick cotton viscose blended double-elasticity single-yarn drill fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN103556366A (en) * | 2013-09-26 | 2014-02-05 | 浙江大港印染有限公司 | Cotton polyester interwoven spandex core-spun elastic fabric |
| CN103556367A (en) * | 2013-09-26 | 2014-02-05 | 浙江大港印染有限公司 | Spandex core-spun elastic fabric |
| CN103556368A (en) * | 2013-09-26 | 2014-02-05 | 浙江大港印染有限公司 | Production method of cotton polyester interwoven spandex core-spun elastic fabric |
| CN105980617A (en) * | 2013-10-14 | 2016-09-28 | 英威达技术有限公司 | Stretch circular knit fabrics with multiple elastic yarns |
| CN107613799A (en) * | 2015-06-02 | 2018-01-19 | Gsm（运营）有限公司 | Clothing especially suitable for water activity |
| CN107237179A (en) * | 2017-04-28 | 2017-10-10 | 芜湖富春染织股份有限公司 | A kind of cylinder yarn low aberration dyeing |
| CN107385720A (en) * | 2017-05-27 | 2017-11-24 | 芜湖富春染织股份有限公司 | A kind of processing method before scribbled dyeing |
| CN113062133A (en) * | 2021-05-15 | 2021-07-02 | 浙江世纪晨星纤维科技有限公司 | Strong-tinting-strength spandex composite covered yarn and preparation process thereof |
| CN114635223A (en) * | 2022-04-14 | 2022-06-17 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | High-count elastic jacquard fabric for knitted shirt and production process thereof |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| CN101307523A (en) | Production method for stretching fabric containing spandex fiber and wiry yarn | |
| JP7015273B2 (en) | Stretch yarns and fabrics with multiple elastic yarns | |
| CN101098992B (en) | Method to make elastic shirting fabric comprising spandex and hard yarn | |
| KR101591536B1 (en) | Stretch wovens with separated elastic yarn system | |
| KR102058415B1 (en) | Stretch wovens with a control yarn system | |
| US20070259583A1 (en) | Elastic fabric including elastic fiber and hard yarn and methods for making | |
| CN110318133B (en) | Elastic yarn and manufacturing method thereof and fabric | |
| US20120079802A1 (en) | Cotton denim fabric that has a soft touch, a smooth surface, brilliant color, and drapes well like a silk or rayon fabrics and method of making thereof | |
| KR20080099548A (en) | Method to make elastic fabric comprising spandex and hard yarn | |
| CN110295432A (en) | One kind can take fabric and its weaving process in the stamp aramid fiber blended fire prevention summer | |
| JP2008280626A (en) | Method for producing elastic fabric comprising spandex and hard yarn | |
| CN207391681U (en) | A kind of silk like fabric is knitted fabric | |
| EP1873285B1 (en) | Method to make elastic shirting fabric comprising spandex and hard yarn | |
| CN110079917A (en) | A kind of production technology of elastic fabric | |
| CN204000101U (en) | A kind of stainless steel clothing leather foundation cloth | |
| CN112030309A (en) | Acetate fiber fabric and production process thereof | |
| US20050142972A1 (en) | Fabric formed from a largely untwisted yarn |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| C06 | Publication | ||
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| C10 | Entry into substantive examination | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| C12 | Rejection of a patent application after its publication | ||
| RJ01 | Rejection of invention patent application after publication |
Application publication date: 20081119 |