CN105378166B - Core-spun elastic composite yarn and woven fabric thereof - Google Patents
Core-spun elastic composite yarn and woven fabric thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN105378166B CN105378166B CN201380078086.3A CN201380078086A CN105378166B CN 105378166 B CN105378166 B CN 105378166B CN 201380078086 A CN201380078086 A CN 201380078086A CN 105378166 B CN105378166 B CN 105378166B
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- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 51
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 10
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 59
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 41
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009971 piece dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 210000004177 elastic tissue Anatomy 0.000 claims 6
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims 4
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 claims 3
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims 2
- 229920002972 Acrylic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 229920002955 Art silk Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 12
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 10
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 10
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 9
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 7
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 6
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000001105 regulatory effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007378 ring spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920000089 Cyclic olefin copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- VGGSQFUCUMXWEO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethene Chemical compound C=C VGGSQFUCUMXWEO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005977 Ethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 206010020112 Hirsutism Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 229920000697 Lastol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000227425 Pieris rapae crucivora Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005299 abrasion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000007382 vortex spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004711 α-olefin Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
- D02G3/324—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using a drawing frame
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明提供一种包芯弹性复合纱,其包括由至少一根短纤维组成的纤维鞘、至少一根弹性性能长丝和至少一根短纤维纱。所述至少一根短纤维的英制棉纱支数为Ne 4至Ne 60,所述至少一根弹性性能长丝的旦尼尔值为20至140,并且所述至少一根短纤维纱线由英制棉纱支数为Ne 8至Ne 100的天然和/或人造的短纤维形成。
The present invention provides a core-spun elastic composite yarn, which comprises a fiber sheath composed of at least one short fiber, at least one elastic filament and at least one short fiber yarn. The at least one short fiber has a cotton yarn count of Ne 4 to Ne 60, the at least one elastic filament has a denier value of 20 to 140, and the at least one short fiber yarn is formed by natural and/or artificial short fibers with a cotton yarn count of Ne 8 to Ne 100.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及一种包芯弹性复合纱,其具有覆盖弹性性能长丝和短纤维纱的纤维鞘。特别地,本包芯纱被织成具有优良的弹力、回复性、手感特点以及改善的纱线接头性能的织物。The present invention relates to a corespun elastic composite yarn having a fiber sheath covering elastic performance filament and staple yarns. In particular, the present corespun yarns are woven into fabrics with excellent elasticity, recovery, hand characteristics and improved yarn splicing properties.
背景技术Background technique
传统的弹力织物通常由包芯弹力纱制成。这种传统的包芯弹力纱的整纱和填纱导致织物的高收缩和拉伸,这需要例如热定型之类的额外的整理工艺。通常,传统的弹力织物具有例如延伸和增长有限的缺陷,并且织物宽度的稳定性会受到影响。Traditional stretch fabrics are usually made from corespun stretch yarns. This conventional filling and filling of corespun spandex results in high shrinkage and stretching of the fabric, which requires additional finishing processes such as heat setting. Generally, conventional stretch fabrics have defects such as limited elongation and growth, and the stability of the fabric width is affected.
在美国专利No.3,671,379中已经公开了一种弹性双组分涤纶长丝,并且在美国专利No.5,922,433、美国专利No.7,143,790和美国专利No,7,299,828中公开了包含这种双组分涤纶长丝的机织弹力织物。然而,这些由很少的双组分涤纶长丝编织而成的织物具有很强的合成感觉和外观。因此这种织物限于用在纬纱和牛仔布中。而且,对这些由双组分涤纶长丝制成的机织弹力织物进行匹染必须在两个单独的染色工序中执行,并且织物的延伸性不可避免地受到影响。An elastic bicomponent polyester filament has been disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 3,671,379, and disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,922,433, U.S. Patent No. Silk woven stretch fabric. However, these fabrics, woven from very few bicomponent polyester filaments, have a very synthetic feel and look. This fabric is therefore limited to use in wefts and denim. Moreover, piece dyeing of these woven stretch fabrics made of bicomponent polyester filaments must be performed in two separate dyeing processes, and the extensibility of the fabric is inevitably affected.
美国专利No.7,310,932公开了一种由包芯纱制成的织物,其包括被短纤维覆盖的双组分涤纶长丝。虽然美国专利No.7,310,932中所公开的织物与改良的外观和手感有关,但这种织物还是存在露底效果和有限的延伸性。US Patent No. 7,310,932 discloses a fabric made from a corespun yarn comprising bicomponent polyester filaments covered by staple fibers. While the fabrics disclosed in US Patent No. 7,310,932 are associated with improved look and feel, such fabrics suffer from a show effect and limited extensibility.
美国专利No.7,299,828B2和美国专利No.8,093,160中公开了由包芯纱制成的织物,其包括至少一根弹性性能长丝和至少一根无弹性长丝或弹性长丝。由这种纱线制成的机织织物具有良好的延伸性和回复性,但是存在的露底效果、低接头强度和合成纹理的问题并未解决。Fabrics made from corespun yarns comprising at least one elastic-capable filament and at least one inelastic or elastic filament are disclosed in US Patent No. 7,299,828 B2 and US Patent No. 8,093,160. Woven fabrics made from this yarn have good extensibility and recovery, but the problems of exposed bottom effect, low joint strength and synthetic texture have not been solved.
因此,需要研发一种生产具有期望的拉伸性、良好的回复性、手感、降低的露底效果和改善的接头特性的新的包芯复合纱。Therefore, there is a need to develop a new corespun composite yarn that produces a desired stretch, good recovery, hand, reduced peeking and improved piecing properties.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明的目的在于提供一种新型包芯弹性复合纱,改新型包芯弹性复合纱具有优良的延伸性、优良的回复性以及更好的手感特点,并且本发明的目的在于与现有的复合纱相较而言解决在接头位置处存在的露底效果和低的纱线接头强度的问题。本复合纱适用于牛仔布、匹染布、经纱和纬纱。本发明的包芯弹性复合纱包括至少一根弹性性能长丝以及至少一根短纤维纱。在一种实施方式中,所述弹性性能长丝的范围从大约20D(旦尼尔)至大约140D变动。在另一实施方式中,所述短纤维纱具有范围从大约8至大约100、优选地从大约20至60变动的英制棉纱支数(Ne)。The purpose of the present invention is to provide a new type of core-spun elastic composite yarn. The improved core-spun elastic composite yarn has excellent extensibility, excellent recovery and better hand feeling characteristics, and the purpose of the present invention is to combine with existing composite yarns. Yarns by comparison solve the problem of peeking effects and low yarn splicing strengths that exist at the piecing location. This composite yarn is suitable for denim, piece dyed fabric, warp and weft. The corespun elastic composite yarns of the present invention comprise at least one elastically capable filament and at least one staple yarn. In one embodiment, the elastic performance filaments range from about 20D (denier) to about 140D. In another embodiment, the spun staple yarn has a cotton count (Ne) ranging from about 8 to about 100, preferably from about 20 to 60.
在另一实施方式中,本发明还包括纤维鞘,该纤维鞘形成具有所述至少一根弹性性能长丝和至少一根短纤维纱的复合纱。所述纤维鞘可以是短纤维,例如棉、涤纶、尼龙、人造丝、羊毛、腈纶及其组合。通常,只要本发明的特点不受影响,则对于能够在本发明中所使用的短纤维的类型没有限制。在又一实施方式中,该纤维鞘的范围从英制棉纱支数大约4Ne至大约60Ne变动。在另一实施方式中,该纤维鞘的范围从Ne7至Ne40变动。In another embodiment, the present invention also includes a fiber sheath forming a composite yarn having said at least one elastic-capable filament and at least one staple fiber yarn. The fiber sheath may be staple fibers such as cotton, polyester, nylon, rayon, wool, acrylic and combinations thereof. In general, there is no restriction on the type of staple fibers that can be used in the present invention as long as the characteristics of the present invention are not affected. In yet another embodiment, the fiber sheath ranges from about 4Ne to about 60Ne in Cotton Cotton Count. In another embodiment, the fiber sheath ranges from Ne7 to Ne40.
本发明的另一目的是提供一种由本发明的包芯弹性复合纱织成的纺织织物。在特定的实施方式中,该纺织织物为牛仔面料。Another object of the present invention is to provide a textile fabric woven from the core-spun elastic composite yarn of the present invention. In a specific embodiment, the textile fabric is denim fabric.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1是根据本发明的一种实施方式的用于制造包芯弹性复合纱的过程和装置的侧视图;Figure 1 is a side view of a process and apparatus for making corespun elastic composite yarns according to one embodiment of the present invention;
图2是根据发明的一种实施方式的用于制造包芯弹性复合纱的过程和装置的前视图;Figure 2 is a front view of a process and apparatus for making corespun elastic composite yarns according to one embodiment of the invention;
图3是根据本发明的另一实施方式的用于制造包芯弹性复合纱的过程和装置的侧视图;Figure 3 is a side view of a process and apparatus for making corespun elastic composite yarns according to another embodiment of the present invention;
图4是根据本发明的另一实施方式的用于制造包芯弹性复合纱的过程和装置的前视图;Figure 4 is a front view of a process and apparatus for making corespun elastic composite yarns according to another embodiment of the present invention;
图5是根据本发明的第三实施方式的用于制造包芯弹性复合纱的过程和装置的侧视图;Figure 5 is a side view of a process and apparatus for making a corespun elastic composite yarn according to a third embodiment of the present invention;
图6是根据本发明的第三实施方式的用于制造包芯弹性复合纱的过程和装置的侧视图;Figure 6 is a side view of a process and apparatus for making a corespun elastic composite yarn according to a third embodiment of the present invention;
图7示出具有一根弹性性能长丝和一根无弹性的涤纶长丝的弹性纱的接头位置(图7a),以及具有一根弹性性能长丝和一根短纤维纱的弹性纱的接头位置(图7b);Figure 7 shows the splicing position of an elastic yarn with one elastic performance filament and one non-elastic polyester filament (Figure 7a), and the splicing of an elastic yarn with one elastic performance filament and a staple fiber yarn position (Fig. 7b);
图8是示出由本发明的三个示例性实施方式织成的纺织织物的物理性能的图表。Figure 8 is a graph showing the physical properties of textile fabrics woven from three exemplary embodiments of the present invention.
定义:definition:
“经纱”指的是机织织物中经线方向上的线。"Warp" refers to the threads in the warp direction of a woven fabric.
“纬纱”或“纬丝”指的是在纺织织物时的横向方向上的线。"Weft" or "weft" refers to the threads in the transverse direction when weaving a fabric.
“氨纶”指的是具有良好弹性的人造纤维,其中,成纤物质为由至少85%的嵌段聚氨酯构成的长链合成聚合物。"Spandex" refers to a man-made fiber of good elasticity in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% segmented polyurethane.
“长丝”指的是具有无限长度的纤维状体。"Filament" refers to a fibrous body of infinite length.
“纤维”指的是具有有限长度的纤维状丝线,例如短纤维。"Fiber" refers to fibrous threads of finite length, such as staple fibers.
“纱”指的是由具有或不具有扭曲性的纤维和/或长丝构成的具有相当的长度和相对小的截面的产品。"Yarn" means a product of considerable length and relatively small cross-section composed of fibers and/or filaments, with or without twist.
“纱条”指的是不具有扭曲性的连续形式的集合物。"Sliver" refers to an aggregate in continuous form without twisting.
“粗纱”是为一种在为纺纱做准备的后期或最后阶段中使用的相对好的纤维状丝线而单独或共同起的名称。"Roving" is the designation, singly or collectively, for a relatively fine fibrous thread used in the later or final stages of preparation for spinning.
“纺纱”指的是牵伸以及适当时在天然或人造短纤维中插入扭曲度以形成纱线。"Spinning" refers to drawing and, where appropriate, inserting twists in natural or man-made staple fibers to form yarns.
“芯纱”指的是由许多组分纱组成的纱线,其中的一根或多根纱线被约束为永久地位于复合线的中心轴,而其余的纱线用作包覆纱。"Core yarn" refers to a yarn composed of many component yarns, one or more of which are constrained to be permanently located on the central axis of a composite yarn, while the remaining yarns serve as covering yarns.
“细纱”指的是由通常通过扭曲而保持在一起的短纤维构成的纱。"Spun yarn" refers to a yarn composed of staple fibers held together, usually by twisting.
“包芯纱”指的是由短纤维包围的纱构成的纱。这种纱具有中心线的强度和/或延伸性而同时展现表面短纤维的大部分的其他特征。"Core spun yarn" refers to a yarn composed of yarn surrounded by staple fibers. Such yarns have the strength and/or extensibility of the centerline while exhibiting most of the other characteristics of the surface staple.
“牵伸比”或“牵伸”是来自将要给送至纺纱机的卷装纤维束的料线纤维束的长度与从该纺纱机传送的纤维束的长度的比。因此,大于1.0的牵伸比是对料线纤维束的体积和重量上的减少的衡量。"Draw ratio" or "draft" is the ratio of the length of the strand fiber bundle from the fiber bundle to be fed package to the spinning machine to the length of the fiber bundle conveyed from the spinning machine. Thus, a draft ratio greater than 1.0 is a measure of the reduction in volume and weight of the strand fiber bundle.
“弹性回复”指的是在加载周期期间,在以限定的延伸保持限定的时间后所施加的张力被移除时,纺织品所经受的在延伸上的即时变化。"Elastic recovery" refers to the instantaneous change in extension experienced by a textile during a loading cycle when an applied tension is removed after being held at a defined extension for a defined time.
以上术语以及本文中所使用的任何其他技术术语的定义很容易被纺织品领域的一般技术人员所理解并且被定义在英国纺织品研究所出版的《纺织品术语和定义(第九版)》(Textile Terms and Definitions(9th Edition))中,所述文献的公开内容通过参引全部结合到本文中。Definitions of the above terms and any other technical terms used herein are easily understood by those of ordinary skill in the field of textiles and are defined in "Textile Terms and Definitions (Ninth Edition)" (Textile Terms and Definitions (Ninth Edition)) published by the British Textile Research Institute. Definitions (9th Edition)), the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
在本发明的目前的优选实施方式中详细地进行了引用,用以解释本发明的原理。用详尽的细节对本文中公开的实施方式或示例进行了描述,以便使本领域的技术人员能够实施本发明,并且,应理解的是,可以采用其他的实施方式,并且可以在不背离本发明的精神的情况下做出改型。Reference is made in detail in the presently preferred embodiments of the invention to explain the principles of the invention. Embodiments or examples disclosed herein have been described in detail to enable those skilled in the art to practice the invention, and it is to be understood that other embodiments may be utilized and may be utilized without departing from the invention. Make modifications in the spirit of the case.
本包芯弹性复合纱包括至少一根弹性性能长丝、至少一根短纤维纱以及由大量短纤维组成的纤维鞘。所述纤维鞘可独立地包围该至少一根弹性性能长丝和该至少一根短纤维纱。在另一实施方式中,该至少一根弹性性能长丝和该至少一根短纤维纱首先被扭曲到一起以形成中心线然后该纤维鞘包围所述中心线。The core-spun elastic composite yarn includes at least one elastic performance filament, at least one staple fiber yarn and a fiber sheath composed of a plurality of staple fibers. The fiber sheath may independently surround the at least one elastic performance filament and the at least one staple fiber yarn. In another embodiment, the at least one elastic performance filament and the at least one staple fiber yarn are first twisted together to form a centerline and then the fiber sheath surrounds said centerline.
在本复合纱中可采用任何市场上可获得的弹性性能长丝。在一种实施方式中,该弹性性能长丝由氨纶或lastol聚合物。其他弹性性能长丝包括但不限于有乙烯α-烯烃共聚物。美国专利No.5,272,236、No.5,278,272、No.5,322,728、No.5,380,810、No.5,472,775、No.5,645,542、No.6,140,442和No.6,225,243公开了能够应用于本发明的弹性性能长丝的各种示例,其公开内容通过参引全部结合到本文中。本发明的弹性性能长丝通常的旦尼尔值为40至140且为该复合纱的总重量的1%至40%。在另一实施方式中,该弹性性能长丝的牵伸的范围通常从1.5至5.0变动。Any commercially available elastic performance filament can be used in the present composite yarn. In one embodiment, the elastic performance filaments are made of spandex or lastol polymer. Other elastic performance filaments include, but are not limited to, ethylene alpha-olefin copolymers. U.S. Patent Nos. 5,272,236, 5,278,272, 5,322,728, 5,380,810, 5,472,775, 5,645,542, 6,140,442 and 6,225,243 disclose various examples of elastic performance filaments that can be applied to the present invention, The disclosure content thereof is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. The elastic performance filaments of the present invention typically have a denier of 40 to 140 and represent 1% to 40% of the total weight of the composite yarn. In another embodiment, the draft of the elastic performance filaments generally ranges from 1.5 to 5.0.
本复合纱的的短纤维纱可以由本领域的技术人员已知的任何材料制成。适用于本发明的短纤维纱的示例包括但不限于有天然的、再生的、合成的、染色的、非染色的纤维。本短纤维纱可以为s-扭曲或z-扭曲的。在一种实施方式中,该短纤维纱具有Ne 8至Ne 100的英制棉纱支数。在另一实施方式中,在另一实施方式中,该英制棉纱支数为Ne 20至Ne 60。在另一实施方式中,本短纤维纱约为本复合纱的总重量的4%至50%。在另一实施方式中,该短纤维纱的牵伸为1.0至1.3。The staple yarns of the present composite yarns can be made from any material known to those skilled in the art. Examples of staple yarns suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, natural, regenerated, synthetic, dyed, and non-dyed fibers. The present staple yarn can be s-twisted or z-twisted. In one embodiment, the staple yarn has a Cotton Count of Ne 8 to Ne 100. In another embodiment, the imperial cotton yarn count is Ne 20 to Ne 60. In another embodiment, the present staple yarn is about 4% to 50% of the total weight of the present composite yarn. In another embodiment, the spun yarn has a draft of 1.0 to 1.3.
该纤维鞘由相对高密度的随机定向的凌乱的合成短纤维(例如,聚酰胺、聚酯等等)或天然短纤维。其他示例包括但不限于棉、粘胶人造丝、涤纶、羊毛、腈纶或其组合。特别地,该纤维鞘可以由短纤维的粗纱环锭纺织而成并且形成分散的凌乱的短纤维。短纤维的长度不是关键的。在另一实施方式中,该纤维鞘的范围从英制棉纱支数大约Ne 4至Ne 60变动。在另一实施方式中,该纤维鞘的范围从Ne 7至Ne 40变动。The fiber sheath consists of a relatively high density of randomly oriented random synthetic staple fibers (eg, polyamide, polyester, etc.) or natural staple fibers. Other examples include, but are not limited to, cotton, viscose rayon, polyester, wool, acrylic, or combinations thereof. In particular, the fiber sheath may be ring spun from a roving of staple fibers and formed into dispersed messy staple fibers. The length of the staple fibers is not critical. In another embodiment, the fiber sheath ranges from about Ne 4 to Ne 60 Cotton Cotton Count. In another embodiment, the fiber sheath ranges from Ne 7 to Ne 40.
本包芯弹性复合纱可被用作经纱和/或纬纱来形成呈现优良回复特性的机织织物。本复合纱具有Ne 4至Ne 60的纱线支数,优选地具有Ne 7至Ne40的纱线支数。在一种实施方式中,由本复合纱织成的织物为平纹、斜纹和/或缎纹图案。根据本发明的这种织物具有至少大约20%或更大的拉伸性。更为具体地,与现有的复合纱——例如那些具有与非弹性/弹性长丝相结合的弹性长丝的长丝芯丝/中心线的复合纱相比,根据本发明的织物呈现出改善的更少的合成手感、改善的毛羽、抗磨损性。本发明的织物还具有降低的露底效果或没有露底效果并且具有较高的接头强度,因此织造工艺的效率提高。当本复合纱由100%的棉或人造纤维/棉混纺物制成时,在该复合纱被用作经纱时,在牛仔面料中出现的常见的白点问题消除。此外,本复合纱的100%的棉或人造纤维/棉混纺物还避免了染色布的双染色过程。The present corespun elastic composite yarns can be used as warp and/or weft yarns to form woven fabrics exhibiting excellent recovery properties. The present composite yarn has a yarn count of Ne 4 to Ne 60, preferably a yarn count of Ne 7 to Ne 40. In one embodiment, the fabric woven from the present composite yarn is in a plain weave, twill and/or satin weave pattern. Such fabrics according to the present invention have a stretchability of at least about 20% or greater. More specifically, compared to existing composite yarns such as those having a filament core/centre thread of elastic filaments combined with non-elastic/elastic Improved less synthetic hand, improved hairiness, abrasion resistance. The fabrics of the present invention also have reduced or no reveal and have higher joint strength, thus increasing the efficiency of the weaving process. When the present composite yarn is made from 100% cotton or rayon/cotton blends, the common white spot problem that occurs in denim fabrics is eliminated when the composite yarn is used as a warp yarn. In addition, the 100% cotton or rayon/cotton blend of the present composite yarn also avoids the double dyeing process of dyed cloth.
本复合纱可通过任何短纤维纺丝过程制造而成,例如包芯纺纱、环锭纺纱等等本领域的技术人员容易知悉的过程。在图1和图2中示出了用于制造本弹性包芯复合纱的过程和装置。在该纺丝过程中,弹性性能长丝21和短纤维纱22根据期望的牵伸以不同的速度沿着方向41和42分别从筒34和35退绕。该弹性性能长丝的牵伸通过前辊31和筒34的表面速度之比计算得到,而该短纤维纱的牵伸通过前辊31和筒35的表面速度之比计算得到。在本发明的一种实施方式中,该弹性性能长丝具有至少为该短纤维纱的牵伸的两倍或三倍的牵伸。The composite yarn can be produced by any staple fiber spinning process, such as core spinning, ring spinning, etc., which are readily known to those skilled in the art. The process and apparatus for making the present elastic corespun composite yarn is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 . During this spinning process, elastic performance filaments 21 and staple yarns 22 are unwound from bobbins 34 and 35, respectively, at different speeds in directions 41 and 42 according to the desired draft. The draft of the elastic properties filament is calculated by the ratio of the surface speed of the front roll 31 and the drum 34, while the draft of the staple fiber yarn is calculated by the ratio of the surface speed of the front roll 31 and the drum 35. In one embodiment of the invention, the elastic performance filaments have a draft that is at least two or three times that of the staple fiber yarn.
短纤维或粗纱13和14从筒11和12退绕以在前辊31处与弹性性能长丝21和短纤维纱22相遇。弹性性能长丝在粗纱13上的位置通过辊36和导纱器38调节,而短纤维纱22在粗纱14上的位置通过辊37和导纱器39调节。如图2中所示,弹性性能长丝21和短纤维纱22首先单独地和短纤维或粗纱13和14扭曲,随后在前辊31处扭曲到一起,从而形成本包芯弹性复合纱。该弹性性能长丝21余短纤维纱22在粗纱上的对准能够有效地减少露底效果。本包芯短纤维纱已经减少了露底效果并且提高了接头位置的接头强度。Staple or roving 13 and 14 are unwound from bobbins 11 and 12 to meet elastic performance filaments 21 and staple yarn 22 at front roll 31 . The position of the elastic properties filaments on the roving 13 is regulated by rollers 36 and yarn guides 38 , while the position of the staple fiber yarns 22 on the roving 14 is regulated by rollers 37 and yarn guides 39 . As shown in Figure 2, elastic performance filaments 21 and staple yarn 22 are first twisted individually with staple or rovings 13 and 14 and then twisted together at front roll 31 to form the present corespun elastic composite yarn. The alignment of the elastic properties of the filaments 21 and staple yarns 22 on the roving is effective in reducing the bottom out effect. The present corespun staple yarn has reduced peeking and increased splice strength at the splice location.
在图3和图4中示出了用于制造本复合纱的过程和包芯纺纱装置的另一实施方式。弹性性能长丝21和短纤维纱22根据期望的牵伸以不同的速度沿着方向41和42分别从筒34和35退绕。长丝21和纱线22首先通过辊36扭曲到一起,从而形成纤维束/中心线,随后,短纤维或粗纱13和14绕着该纤维束扭曲以形成包芯纱1。弹性性能长丝21和短纤维纱22在短纤维或粗纱13和14上的位置通过辊36和导纱器38和39调节。A further embodiment of the process for producing the present composite yarn and of the core spinning device is shown in FIGS. 3 and 4 . Elastomeric performance filaments 21 and staple yarns 22 are unwound from bobbins 34 and 35 in directions 41 and 42, respectively, at different speeds depending on the desired draft. The filaments 21 and yarns 22 are first twisted together by rollers 36 to form a tow/centerline around which staple fibers or rovings 13 and 14 are subsequently twisted to form the corespun yarn 1 . The position of the elastic properties filaments 21 and staple yarns 22 on the staple or rovings 13 and 14 is regulated by rollers 36 and yarn guides 38 and 39 .
在图5和图6中示出了包芯纺纱装置的另一实施方式,其中,弹性性能长丝与短纤维纱一起扭曲从而预先形成中心线23。在将弹性性能长丝与短纤维纱一起扭曲的过程中有用的装置包括但不限于有环锭式精纺机、气聊纱机和涡流纺纱机。纤维束沿着方向41从筒34退绕。中心线的牵伸通过前辊31和筒34的表面速度之比计算得到。短纤维或粗纱13和14从筒11和12退绕以在前辊31处与中心线23相遇。包芯短纤维纱在粗纱13和14上的位置通过辊36和导纱器38和39调节。Another embodiment of a core spinning device is shown in FIGS. 5 and 6 , wherein the elastic performance filaments are twisted together with the staple yarn to preform the centerline 23 . Apparatuses useful in twisting elastic performance filaments with staple yarns include, but are not limited to, ring spinning frames, air spinning frames, and vortex spinning frames. The fiber bundle is unwound from the drum 34 in direction 41 . The centerline draft is calculated from the ratio of the front roll 31 and drum 34 surface speeds. Staple fibers or rovings 13 and 14 are unwound from bobbins 11 and 12 to meet centerline 23 at front roll 31 . The position of the corespun yarn on the rovings 13 and 14 is adjusted by means of rollers 36 and yarn guides 38 and 39 .
在图7a中示出了包括弹性性能长丝和非弹性或弹性的长丝的传统的弹性包芯纱在接头位置处的露底效果。本发明的弹性包芯复合纱包括弹性性能长丝和短纤维纱,该长丝芯在接头位置处没有露底效果(图7b)。通过将本弹性包芯复合纱分别使用在经纱、纬丝或纬纱方向,该弹性包芯复合纱能够用来提供设计成纬纱拉伸、经纱拉伸或双拉伸的伸缩织物。由本复合纱制成的伸缩织物可以具有范围从4盎司/平方码至16盎司/平方码(oz/sq.yd)变化的织物重量。The exposed bottom effect of a conventional elastic corespun yarn comprising elastic performance filaments and non-elastic or elastic filaments at the splice location is shown in Figure 7a. The elastic corespun composite yarn of the present invention comprises elastic performance filaments and staple fiber yarns, the filament core has no bottoming effect at the splice location (Fig. 7b). By employing the present elastic corespun composite yarns in the warp, weft, or weft directions, respectively, the elastic corespun composite yarns can be used to provide stretch fabrics designed to be stretched in the weft, stretched in the warp, or double stretched. Stretch fabrics made from the present composite yarns can have fabric weights ranging from 4 ounces per square yard to 16 ounces per square yard (oz/sq.yd).
下文是根据本发明的示例性实施方式织成的纺织织物以及相关的特性(图8)。The following are textile fabrics woven according to an exemplary embodiment of the present invention and associated properties ( FIG. 8 ).
示例1:牛仔纬向单弹织物Example 1: Denim Weft Single Elastic Fabric
根据本发明的具有纬纱Ne 16的牛仔弹力织物。该纬纱包括棉纤维鞘和包芯涤纶短纤维纱Ne 45以及40D(旦尼尔)的氨纶。该牛仔弹力织物呈现良好的延伸性(27.4%)伸长(3.0%)。Denim stretch fabric with weft yarn Ne 16 according to the invention. The weft yarns consisted of cotton fiber sheath and corespun polyester staple yarn Ne 45 and 40D (denier) spandex. The denim stretch fabric exhibited good extensibility (27.4%) elongation (3.0%).
示例2:牛仔纬向单弹织物Example 2: Denim Weft Single Elastic Fabric
根据本发明的Ne 16的纬纱包括被100%的棉纤维鞘包覆的40D的氨纶和100%的包芯纱Ne 45的芯丝。该织物具有良好的延伸性(34.6%)和伸长(5.4%)。该织物呈现100%的棉质感并且在该织物中和在接头位置处不具有露底效果。示例2的本芯丝还能够作为经纱使用。The weft yarn of Ne 16 according to the invention consists of 40D spandex covered by 100% cotton fiber sheath and 100% core yarn Ne 45 core yarn. The fabric has good extensibility (34.6%) and elongation (5.4%). The fabric exhibits a 100% cotton feel and has no exposed bottom effect in the fabric and at the joint locations. The core yarn of Example 2 can also be used as a warp.
示例3:牛仔纬向单弹织物Example 3: Denim Weft Single Elastic Fabric
具有100%的棉纤维鞘和包芯涤纶短纤维纱Ne 60以及40D的纬丝。在由该纬丝织成的织物中呈现出良好的延伸性(30.1%)和伸长(3.6%)。With 100% cotton fiber sheath and corespun polyester staple yarn Ne 60 and 40D weft. Good extensibility (30.1%) and elongation (3.6%) were exhibited in the fabric woven from this weft.
在没有更详尽的叙述的情况下,相信本领域的一般技术人员已经能够基于本文中的说明在不背离本发明的精神的范围内对本发明进行改型并根据所附权利要求中陈述的内容最大限度地利用本发明。本文中所列举的所有文献都通过参引全部结合到本文中。In the absence of more detailed descriptions, it is believed that those skilled in the art can modify the present invention based on the description herein without departing from the scope of the spirit of the present invention and according to the contents stated in the appended claims to the maximum extent Use the invention to its fullest extent. All documents cited herein are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.
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- 2013-09-09 WO PCT/CN2013/083149 patent/WO2015032097A1/en active Application Filing
- 2013-09-09 EP EP13889765.7A patent/EP2867393B1/en active Active
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2015
- 2015-11-03 HK HK15110826.2A patent/HK1210236A1/en unknown
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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HK1210236A1 (en) | 2016-04-15 |
EP2867393A1 (en) | 2015-05-06 |
EP2867393B1 (en) | 2020-12-02 |
EP2867393A4 (en) | 2016-06-01 |
US20160024692A1 (en) | 2016-01-28 |
WO2015032097A1 (en) | 2015-03-12 |
CN105378166A (en) | 2016-03-02 |
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