JP2002004156A - Interknitted warp knit - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a thin interknitted warp knit having excellent resistances to a high-temperature dyeing, sunlight irradiation and laundry, a soft feeling and excellent in elasticity. SOLUTION: This interknitted warp knit having a half structure composed of a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber at the back reed, and a nonelastic fiber except the polytrimethylene terephthalate at the front reed is knitted by regulating the ratio of the yarn length of the front reed to the yarn length of the back reed so as to be 1.25-1.33.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention provides a cross-knitted warp knitted fabric having a thin and smooth surface, high stretch and excellent stretch recovery.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As a conventional knitted fabric excellent in stretch recovery,
Knitted fabrics made by mixing and knitting polyurethane elastic fibers, and knitted fabrics made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber false twisted yarn and polybutylene terephthalate fiber false twisted yarn are used for sports,
Widely used for outer and inner clothing. However, the knitted fabric obtained by cross-knitting the polyurethane elastic fibers, although having high stretchability and elongation recovery properties, has a disadvantage that it has a relatively high density and is thick and heavy. In addition, the polyurethane elastic fiber deteriorates during high-temperature dyeing, and the problem of migration sublimation tends to occur when dyeing with a disperse dye. Therefore, cross-knitting with polyester fiber requires extreme care in handling during dyeing processing. . There is also a disadvantage that the polyurethane elastic fiber is easily embrittled by sunlight irradiation at the time of wearing or repeated washing. In addition, there is a problem that the handling is complicated in the knitting and dyeing process and the cost of the polyurethane elastic fiber is high due to the high price of the raw yarn.

A knitted fabric made of a false-twisted yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber or a false-twisted yarn of polybutylene terephthalate fiber has few problems in handling during the knitting and dyeing process, and the stretchable knitted fabric can be easily formed. Although it has the advantage of being obtained, the surface of the fabric is rough due to the appearance of crimp of the processed yarn, and a thin knitted fabric cannot be obtained. When cross knitting is performed with a yarn having no crimp, roughness can be improved, but stretchability, elongation / recovery, and a thin knitted fabric cannot be obtained due to the influence of the elongation / recovery characteristics of the mating yarn. On the other hand, it is difficult to obtain a stretch ratio of 15% or more in the warp direction and the weft direction in a 100% knitted fabric of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber or polybutylene terephthalate fiber, and its use is limited in the inner, sports and outer fields. There was a problem that would.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a cross-knitted warp knitted fabric having a thin and smooth surface, high stretch and excellent stretch recovery.

[0005]

As a result of diligent studies, the present inventors have limited the yarn length ratio between polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and the fiber to be knitted to a specific range and knitted the present invention. Was found to be achieved. That is, the present invention is a half-knit warp knitted fabric in which inelastic fibers other than polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber are interwoven, and the polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers are interwoven with a back reed. That the ratio of the length of the front reed to the length of the back reed after dyeing is 1.25 or more and 1.33 or less, and that the stretch ratio in the warp and weft directions of the knitted fabric is 15% or more, respectively. It is a knitted knitted fabric that is a feature.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the present invention, the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber refers to a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and the trimethylene terephthalate unit has about 50 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, and more preferably 80 mol%. Above, more preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is about 5%.
0 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, and more preferably 2 mol% or less.
The polytrimethylene terephthalate contained in a range of 0 mol% or less, more preferably 10 mol% or less is included.

[0007] Polytrimethylene terephthalate is produced by condensing terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this production process, an appropriate one or two or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or
Polyesters other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate, nylon, and polytrimethylene terephthalate may be separately produced and then blended or composite-spun (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.).

The third component to be added includes aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.). ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2
-Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycol (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aliphatic glycol containing aromatics (1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycol (polyethylene glycol, Polypropylene glycol and the like), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (such as ω-oxycaproic acid), and aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (such as P-oxybenzoic acid). Compounds having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

Further, as additives, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, hindered phenol derivatives And the like, an antioxidant, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent brightener, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent, and the like. In the present invention, for the spinning of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber,
After obtaining an undrawn yarn at a winding speed of about 1500 m / min,
A method of twisting by about 2 to 3.5 times, a direct drawing method (spin draw method) in which a spinning-drawing step is directly connected, and a winding speed of 5000
Any of a high-speed spinning method (spin take-up method) for spinning at a speed of m / min or more may be employed.

The form of the fiber may be a long fiber or a short fiber, and may be uniform or thick in the length direction.
Round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W
It may be a polygonal type such as a mold, an eight-leaf type, a flat shape, a dogbone type, etc., a multi-leaf type, a hollow type or an irregular shape. In order to obtain a thin and smooth surface as the object of the present invention, a multifilament is preferred. Fiber having a single fiber fineness in the range of 0.55 to 5.50 decitex can be used. In order to further improve the flexibility of the fabric, fibers having 1.10 to 4.70 dtex are preferred. The yarn fineness can be appropriately selected according to the knitted fabric thickness for the purpose of design. For example, in lingerie and running pants, 22 dtex to 84 dtex is preferable.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a higher stretchability and a softer texture as compared with a conventional general knitting method in which the same type of fiber is used for a front reed and a back reed. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is one in which two types of fibers constitute different structures, and is preferably used as a method for obtaining a thin and smooth knitted fabric having a so-called half structure. The method of knitting the half structure is obtained by using a warp knitting machine having two reeds and knitting the front reed by swinging between two stitches and the back reed by swinging between one stitch in the opposite direction. . Each stitch loop may be either an open stitch or a closed stitch, but the use of a closed stitch is preferred because it has excellent elongation recovery properties.

In the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the ratio of the length of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of the back reed to the length of the inelastic fiber other than the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of the front reed is 1.25 or more and 1.33 or less. Must be in the range Preferably it is in the range of 1.27 to 1.30. If the yarn length ratio is less than 1.25, the stretchability becomes insufficient, and the difference in tension between the back reed and the front reed during knitting increases, resulting in yarn breakage. The yarn length ratio is 1.3
If it exceeds 3, the snacking property is inferior, the front reed becomes loose during knitting, and problems such as warp, thread breakage, and deterioration in the quality of the knitted fabric occur. When the same fiber is used for the front reed and the back reed, or when polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is used for the front reed, the stretchability is insufficient.

The yarn length in the present invention indicates the ratio of the length of each fiber forming a certain number of stitches in a knitted fabric. Specifically, a mark is applied to the knitted fabric after dyeing and finishing.
The yarns of the front reed and the back reed are unwound so as not to damage them, one end of the obtained fiber is fixed with a clamp, and a load of 0.11 cN × density (decitex) is hung on the other end to knit the fiber. The shape distortion of the loop is removed, and the length is accurately measured after standing for 30 seconds. Measurement environment is 20 ℃, 65% R
H. As a simple method of calculating the yarn length after the dyeing and finishing step, the yarn length can be calculated from the supply yarn length at the time of knitting and the hot water shrinkage at the highest temperature at the time of dyeing the fiber. Specifically, as a method of changing the yarn length ratio, a method of measuring the hot water shrinkage of each fiber and changing the supply yarn length at the time of knitting can be appropriately changed.

In the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having a high hot water shrinkage rate is knitted by a back reed and arranged relatively inside the knitted fabric structure. Even if the yarn length ratio is smaller than 1.33, the back reed has a loop structure in which the polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers are stretched. When the knitted fabric is stretched, the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is stretched, and thereafter, a stretching force acts on the inelastic fiber of the mating and knitting partner. Excessive force that causes the knitted loops of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber to collapse during stretching is not applied to the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, so that high stretchability, elongation recovery and a soft texture can be obtained.

In the present invention, if the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is used for the back reed having a half structure, the mating yarn to be knitted may be any fiber, such as polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, polyacrylnitrile fiber, polyvinyl fiber. Synthetic fibers such as synthetic fibers and polypropylene fibers, natural fibers such as cotton, wool and hemp, and artificial cellulose fibers such as cupra, rayon, acetate, polynosic, and lyocell can be used. The form of the fiber is
It may be a long fiber or a short fiber, and may be uniform or thick in the length direction, and may have a round, triangular, L-shaped, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped, Yatsuha-shaped, or flat cross-sectional shape. And polygonal type such as dog bone type, multi-leaf type, hollow type and irregular type.

In order to obtain a soft texture with a thin, smooth surface which is the object of the present invention, a multifilament is preferred, but not limited thereto. Fiber having a single fiber fineness in the range of 0.55 to 5.50 decitex can be used. In order to further improve the flexibility of the fabric, 1.10 to 4.70 dtex is preferable. The yarn fineness can be appropriately selected according to the knitted fabric thickness for the purpose of design.
For example, in lingerie and running pants, yarns in the range of 22 dtex to 84 dtex can be used.

The hot water shrinkage ratio of the inelastic fiber for cross knitting used in the present invention at the time of dyeing is smaller than that of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber by 2% or more, assuming the highest temperature condition at the time of dyeing. There is a difference of 14% or less, preferably 4% or more and 12% or less. If it is less than 2%, flexibility and stretchability are exceeded, and if it is more than 14%, the inelastic fibers to be knitted are likely to have a structure floating on the surface of the knitted fabric, and the snagging property is inferior.

The stretch ratio of the knitted fabric shown in the present invention is 15% or more in the warp direction and the weft direction. Specifically, it is a value expressed by the elongation of the knitted fabric under a load of 2.45 N / cm, which is a stress value at which resistance is felt when wearing and exercising clothes. The stretch ratio in the warp and weft directions of the knitted fabric of the present invention needs to be 15% or more, which is a stretch ratio at which no resistance is felt from the amount of slippage and the amount of clearance between the skin and clothes during exercise. If the stretch ratio is less than 15%, the movement of the knitted fabric is insufficient because the knitted fabric does not follow the displacement of the body during the exercise, and it is not preferable because the clothes may be lost. On the other hand, if the stretch ratio exceeds 65%, the detachability deteriorates, the amount of deformation as a knitted fabric increases, and the elongation recoverability is unfavorably reduced. The method of dyeing and finishing a knitted fabric of the present invention is a conventionally known general method such as a hot water relaxing step, a dry heat preliminary setting step, a dyeing step, a step of applying an antistatic agent and a softening agent, and a dry heat finishing setting step. The processing method used in the above can be used and can be appropriately selected according to the purpose of use, and is not limited at all.

[0019]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples and the like, but the present invention is not limited to these. The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber (hereinafter referred to as "PTT fiber") used in the examples was prepared as follows. That is, polytrimethylene terephthalate having ηsp / c = 0.8 is spun at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn, and then a hot roll temperature of 60 ° C. and a hot plate temperature of 14
Stretching was performed at 0 ° C., at a draw ratio of 3 and at a draw speed of 800 m / min to obtain a drawn yarn of 40 dtex / 24f. The strength, elongation, elastic modulus of the drawn yarn and elastic recovery at 10% elongation are as follows:
3.4 cN / decitex, 43.4%, 23 cN each
/ Decitex as well as 99%.

The elastic recovery at 10% elongation was determined by applying an initial load of 8.82 × 10 ⁻² cN / decitex to the sample.
Stretch at a constant rate of 20% elongation per minute, elongation 10
When it reaches%, contract it again at the same speed,
Draw a stress-strain curve. When the residual elongation when the stress is reduced to 8.82 × 10 ⁻² cN / decitex, which is the same as the initial load during shrinkage, is defined as L, it is calculated by the following equation. Elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation (%) = ｛(10−L) / 1
0｝ × 100

The method for measuring the properties of the cloth and yarn used in the present invention will be described below. (1) Hot water shrinkage rate In accordance with JIS-L-1095 · B method, a sample is initially loaded, accurately 500 mm is hit at two points, and after excluding the initial load, immersed in hot water at 120 ° C. for 30 minutes. Take out and lightly blot with a blotter or cloth, air-dry and apply an initial load again, measure the length (L) between two points, and calculate the boiling water shrinkage ratio by the following formula. Hot water shrinkage (%) = {(500−L) / 500} × 10
0 (2) Knitted fabric elongation KES-FB2 measuring system (manufactured by Kato Tech Co.) Tensile property tester Specimen Process 20 cm × 20 cm Grasp length 2.0 cm Initial load 0.01 N / cm Peeling speed 100% per minute Fix one end Then, the other end was gripped by a movable clamp, stretched at a constant speed, and the knitted fabric elongation at a tensile resistance of 2.45 N was measured.

(3) Flexibility KES-FB2 measurement system (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) Bending property tester Specimen Pieces 20 cm Longitudinal stiffness (N · cm ² / cm) at the time of bending operation with constant velocity curvature at chuck interval 1 cm It was measured. Expressed by the average value of the process, the latitude, the front, and the back. (4) Snagging performance JIS-L-1058 / D-4 method

[0023]

Example 1 A PTT fiber of 40 dtex 24 filaments was supplied to the back reed, and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber (hereinafter referred to as PET fiber) 33 dtex 18 filaments W cross section yarn was supplied to the front reed to a tricot machine. The knitted fabric was created. The hot water shrinkage of each fiber in hot water at 120 ° C. for 30 minutes was 14% for the PTT fiber and 10% for the PET fiber. (Knitting conditions) Knitting machine: HKS 36 gauge / inch 130 inches KARL MAYER yarn type: front reed PET fiber 33 decitex 17 filament back reed PTT fiber 40 decitex 24 filament Yarn feeding length: front reed 134 cm / 480 course back reed 110 cm / 480 course Yarn length ratio after dyeing: 1.27 This fabric was relaxed in hot water at 80 ° C for 10 minutes, then dyed at 120 ° C for 30 minutes with a liquid jet dyeing machine, and further 63 courses with a dry heat dryer. Finishing set at 170 ° C. for 1 minute at a density of 55 inches / inch. Table 1 shows the knitted fabric elongation, flexibility and snagging properties of the obtained knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric had a stretch ratio of 18% in warp and 45% in weft, and exhibited excellent snagging properties.

[0024]

[Example 2] The knitting condition of the yarn supply length was 137 cm for the front reed.
/ 480 course, back reed 110cm / 480 course,
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the yarn length ratio after dyeing was 1.30. Table 1 shows the knitted fabric elongation, flexibility, and snagging properties of the obtained knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric had a stretch rate of 20% of warp and 53% of weft, and exhibited excellent snagging properties.

[0025]

Example 3 A PTT fiber of 40 dtex and 24 filaments was supplied to the back reed and a PET fiber of 33 dtex and 12 filaments of triangular cross section was supplied to the front reed to a tricot machine to produce a knitted fabric having a half structure under the following conditions. The hot water shrinkage for 30 minutes in 120 ° C. hot water of each fiber is 14% and 4%, respectively. The knitting conditions are as follows: yarn feed length 128 cm / 480 course for front reed, 110 cm / 4 for reed
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the yarn length ratio after dyeing was 80 courses and the yarn length ratio was 1.30. Table 1 shows the knitted fabric elongation, flexibility and snagging properties of the obtained knitted fabric. The obtained dough has a stretch rate of 23% longitude and 65% weft,
It showed excellent snagging properties.

[0026]

[Comparative Example 1] 40 decitex 24 filament PTT fiber for front reed, 33 decitex 17 for back reed
Using a PET fiber filament, the yarn feeding length under knitting conditions was set to 149 cm / 480 course for the front reed and 110 for the back reed.
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the cm / 480 course and the yarn length ratio after dyeing were 1.30. Table 1 shows the knitted fabric elongation, flexibility and snagging properties of the obtained knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric had a stretch ratio of 7% warp and 10% weft.

[Comparative Example 2] A PTT fiber of 40 decitex 24 filaments was used for the front reed and the back reed, and the yarn supply length under knitting conditions was 138 cm / 480 course for the front reed, 110 cm / 480 course for the back reed, and the yarn length ratio after dyeing was 1 A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitted fabric was .25. Table 1 shows the knitted fabric elongation, flexibility and snagging properties of the obtained knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric had a stretch ratio of 10% warp and 23% weft.

[0027]

[Comparative Example 3] Using a triangular cross section of PET fiber of 33 decitex 10 filaments (hot water shrinkage of 6%) for the front reed and the back reed, the yarn feeding length under knitting conditions was set to 128.
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the cm / 480 course, the back reed 96 cm / 480 course, and the yarn length ratio after dyeing were 1.33. Table 1 shows the knitted fabric elongation, flexibility and snagging properties of the obtained knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric had a stretch ratio of 7% for warp and 15% for weft.

[Comparative Example 4] Using a nylon 6 fiber triangular cross-section yarn of 33 decitex 12 filaments (hot water shrinkage ratio 4%) for the front reed and the back reed, the yarn feeding length under knitting conditions was set to 1 for the front reed.
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the 30 cm / 480 course, the back reed 98 cm / 480 course, and the yarn length ratio after dyeing were 1.33. Knitted fabric elongation of the obtained knitted fabric,
Table 1 shows the flexibility and snagging properties. The obtained knitted fabric had a stretch ratio of 12% in warp and 38% in weft.

[0028]

[Comparative Example 5] The knitting conditions were set so that the yarn feed length was 126 cm for the front reed.
/ 480 course, back reed 110cm / 480 course,
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the yarn length ratio after dyeing was 1.20. Table 1 shows the knitted fabric elongation, flexibility and snagging properties of the obtained knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric is
The stretch ratio was 12% in longitude and 35% in weft.

[Comparative Example 6] The knitting condition of the yarn supply length was 147 cm for the front reed.
/ 480 course, back reed 110cm / 480 course,
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the yarn length ratio after dyeing was 1.40. Table 1 shows the knitted fabric elongation, flexibility and snagging properties of the obtained knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric is
The knitted fabric showed excellent elongation at a warp of 18% and a weft of 38%, but had poor snagging properties.

[0029]

[Table 1]

[0030]

The knitted fabric of the present invention is a warp knitted fabric having a thin and soft texture and excellent elongation and elongation recovery properties, and has no problem with embrittlement due to high-temperature dyeing, sunlight irradiation or washing. is there.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A half-knit warp knitted fabric in which polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers and non-elastic fibers other than polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers are knitted, wherein the polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers are knitted with a back reed. ,
A cross-knitting wherein the ratio of the length of the front reed to the length of the back reed is 1.25 or more and 1.33 or less, and the stretch ratio in the warp direction and the weft direction of the knitted fabric is 15% or more, respectively. Warp knitted fabric. 2. The knitting method according to claim 1, wherein the shrinkage ratio of the non-elastic fiber other than the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber at the time of dyeing is 2% to 14% smaller than that of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. Warp knitted fabric.