彈性織物之製造方法Method for manufacturing elastic fabric
本發明係有關於一種彈性織物之製造方法，尤指涉及一種以雙彈性體包芯紗結構所織造之彈性織物，特別係指具高彈性與高回復性，可用於具柔軟手感、合身持久、彈性回復力好，且不易變型亦無露白現象之輕量衣料者。The invention relates to a method for manufacturing an elastic fabric, in particular to an elastic fabric woven by a double-elastic core-spun yarn structure, in particular to have high elasticity and high recovery, and can be used for soft hand feeling and long-lasting fit. Lightweight fabrics with good elastic recovery and no change or white appearance.
目前市面上常用之彈性絲可大致區分為聚氨酯彈性絲（Lycra或Spandex）及聚酯機械彈性絲二大類。其中聚氨酯彈性纖維為係1959年杜邦公司研發成功之一種人造彈性絲，註冊商標為萊卡-Lycra（在美國、加拿大商品名為Spandex）；台灣業界則通常稱為OP。 聚氨酯彈性纖維一般不單獨使用，而 是少量的摻入織物中。它通常有四種主要形式，包括：裸絲；包覆紗，分單層包覆（Single Covered Yarn, SCY）及雙層包覆（Double Covered Yarn, DCY）；空氣交絡紗（Air-Jet Covered Yarn, ACY）；以及包芯紗（CORE SPUN YARN）。上述裸絲通常用於針織紡織品，而包覆紗及空氣交絡紗則用於絲織較多。包芯紗為短纖紗在精紡機工程包覆，一般用於牛仔布。 聚氨酯彈性絲雖具有優異之彈性伸長率及回復性，可讓穿著更為舒適 ，但仍有些缺點存在。例如對織造及染整敏感性較高，工藝不當易造成緯檔或OP斷裂、耐鹼性差較不適合減量加工、另其織物熱尺寸安定性較差、與聚酯纖維交織時因聚氨酯無法上色，易造成露白（grin through）或色牢度較差，亦為其缺點。如英威達（Invista）曾推出一種Lycra□ T400□聚酯雙組分纖維的包芯彈性紗線產品，紗支數一般低於Ne20’s，具高彈性與高回復性，多用於厚重之牛仔褲料，惟其棉加聚酯加Lycra之組成，容易不均染、產生白點瑕疵，故有露白（grin through）之不良現象。 為減少露白，有必要在兩個獨立染色步驟中對織物染色，然而其為高成本及冗長之方法。此外，亦難以使外鞘切段纖維之顏色與雙組分長絲纖芯之顏色相匹配。故，ㄧ般習用者係無法符合使用者於實際使用時之所需。Currently, the elastic yarns commonly used in the market can be roughly classified into two types: polyurethane elastic yarns (Lycra or Spandex) and polyester mechanical elastic yarns. Among them, polyurethane elastic fiber is a kind of artificial elastic yarn developed by DuPont in 1959. The registered trademark is Lycra-Lycra (in the US and Canada under the trade name Spandex); the Taiwanese industry is usually called OP. Polyurethane elastic fibers are generally not used alone, but are incorporated into the fabric in small amounts. It usually has four main forms, including: bare wire; covered yarn, single cover coated (SCY) and double cover (Double Covered Yarn, DCY); air-Jet Covered Yarn, ACY); and core yarn (CORE SPUN YARN). The above-mentioned bare wires are generally used for knitting textiles, while the covered yarns and air entangled yarns are used for more weaving. The core spun yarn is a spun yarn that is coated in a fine spinning machine and is generally used for denim. Although the polyurethane elastic yarn has excellent elastic elongation and recovery, it can be worn more comfortable, but there are still some disadvantages. For example, the susceptibility to weaving and dyeing and finishing is high, and the improper process may cause the weft or OP to break, the alkali resistance is not suitable for the reduction processing, and the thermal stability of the fabric is poor, and the polyurethane cannot be colored when interlaced with the polyester fiber. It is easy to cause grin through or poor color fastness, which is also a disadvantage. For example, Invista has introduced a core-elastic yarn product of Lycra□ T400□ polyester bicomponent fiber. The yarn count is generally lower than Ne20's. It has high elasticity and high recovery, and is used for heavy jeans. However, the combination of cotton plus polyester and Lycra is prone to uneven dyeing and white spotting, so there is a bad phenomenon of grin through. To reduce whitening, it is necessary to dye the fabric in two separate dyeing steps, however it is a costly and lengthy method. In addition, it is also difficult to match the color of the outer sheath segment fibers to the color of the bicomponent filament core. Therefore, the user-like users cannot meet the needs of the user in actual use.
本發明之主要目的係在於，克服習知技藝所遭遇之上述問題並提供一種運用雙彈性體包芯紗結構，將彈性纖維（Spandex）及尼龍6或尼龍66纖維融合成單一織物，不但能夠保留雙成分纖維織物既有之高彈性與高回復性之優點，而且在材料組成上使用棉纖維、彈性纖維（Spandex）及尼龍6或尼龍66纖維，使得彈性織物在紗線染色後的外觀上，藉由尼龍纖維會被污染上色，使得外觀比較不會有白點瑕疵，能夠具有較無露白現象又能使用於輕量衣料之彈性織物之製造方法。 本發明之次要目的係在於，提供一種以雙彈性體包芯紗結構所織造之彈性織物，如梭織布料（上衣、褲料）、針織布料等，此布料具高彈性與高回復性，可用於具柔軟手感、合身持久、彈性回復力好，且不易變型亦無露白現象之輕量衣料上之彈性織物之製造方法。 為達以上之目的，本發明係一種彈性織物之製造方法，係至少包含下列步驟：（Ａ）芯紗原料：提供一紗線彈性體，其係一由尼龍6或尼龍66纖維任其一，及彈性纖維（Spandex）製成之芯紗，其中該尼龍6或尼龍66纖維具有10D～70D之丹尼數，而該彈性纖維（Spandex）具有10D～70D之丹尼數；（Ｂ）鞘紗原料：提供一外包纖維層，其係選自棉、毛或其組合組成之鞘紗；（Ｃ）製料抽紗：將該紗線彈性體與該外包纖維層相混合，以包紗方式使該外包纖維層沿著該紗線彈性體軸線方向以該紗線彈性體為中心，環繞包覆在該紗線彈性體周圍而製成一雙彈性體包芯紗結構，其中該雙彈性體包芯紗結構係牽伸其原始長度之2.0～3.6倍；（Ｄ）織紗成型：將該雙彈性體包芯紗結構以經、緯編織之方式製成一彈性織物，該彈性織物包含複數經紗及複數緯紗，各該經紗或各該緯紗之一具有該雙彈性體包芯紗結構，或各該經紗及各該緯紗兩者均具有該雙彈性體包芯紗結構；以及（Ｅ）染色加工：藉由染色方法對該彈性織物進行染色及修整，其中該彈性織物實質上無露白（grin through）之紗線彈性體。 於本發明上述實施例中，該雙彈性體包芯紗結構之紗支數範圍係為Ne5～Ne90。 於本發明上述實施例中，該經、緯編織係為梭織。 於本發明上述實施例中，該經、緯編織係為針織。 於本發明上述實施例中，該彈性織物係可為一梭織布料、一針織布料或以上所組成之群組之布料。 於本發明上述實施例中，該彈性織物係可為成衣。 於本發明上述實施例中，該彈性織物包括輕量衣料服裝。The main object of the present invention is to overcome the above problems encountered in the prior art and to provide a double-elastic core-spun yarn structure, which combines elastic fibers (Spandex) and nylon 6 or nylon 66 fibers into a single fabric, which can not only retain The two-component fiber fabric has the advantages of high elasticity and high recovery, and uses cotton fiber, spandex and nylon 6 or nylon 66 fiber in the material composition, so that the elastic fabric has a dyed appearance after the yarn is dyed. By using nylon fibers to be contaminated and colored, the appearance is relatively less white, and the method for manufacturing elastic fabrics for lightweight fabrics can be obtained with less whitening. A secondary object of the present invention is to provide an elastic fabric woven by a double-elastic core-spun yarn structure, such as a woven fabric (top, trousers), a knitted fabric, etc., which has high elasticity and high recovery. It can be used in the manufacturing method of elastic fabric on a lightweight fabric with soft hand feeling, long-lasting fit, good elastic recovery, and no change or whitening. For the purpose of the above, the present invention relates to a method for producing an elastic fabric comprising at least the following steps: (A) a core yarn material: a yarn elastic body, which is one of nylon 6 or nylon 66 fibers. And a core yarn made of elastic fiber (Spandex), wherein the nylon 6 or nylon 66 fiber has a Danny number of 10D to 70D, and the elastic fiber (Spandex) has a Danny number of 10D to 70D; (B) a sheath yarn Raw material: providing an outer fiber layer selected from the group consisting of cotton, wool or a combination thereof; (C) material drawing: mixing the yarn elastic body with the outer fiber layer, and wrapping the yarn The outer fiber layer is wrapped around the yarn elastic body around the yarn elastic body in the direction of the yarn elastic body to form a double elastic core yarn structure, wherein the double elastic core is wrapped The yarn structure is drawn from the original length by 2.0 to 3.6 times; (D) woven yarn forming: the double elastic core-spun yarn structure is formed into a elastic fabric by warp and weft knitting, and the elastic fabric comprises a plurality of warp yarns and plural Weft yarn, each of the warp yarns or each of the wefts One having the double-elastic core-spun yarn structure, or each of the warp yarns and each of the weft yarns having the double-elastic core-spun yarn structure; and (E) dyeing processing: dyeing the elastic fabric by a dyeing method And finishing, wherein the elastic fabric is substantially free of a grin through yarn elastomer. In the above embodiment of the present invention, the yarn count of the double-elastic core-spun yarn structure ranges from Ne5 to Ne90. In the above embodiment of the invention, the warp and weft knitting is woven. In the above embodiment of the invention, the warp and weft knitting is knitting. In the above embodiment of the present invention, the elastic fabric may be a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a fabric composed of the above. In the above embodiment of the invention, the elastic fabric may be a garment. In the above embodiment of the invention, the elastic fabric comprises a lightweight garment garment.
請參閱『第１圖～第３圖』所示，係分別為本發明彈性織物之製造流程示意圖、本發明一實施例之雙彈性體包芯紗結構立體示意圖、及本發明一實施例之彈性織物之局部結構示意圖。如圖所示：本發明係一種彈性織物之製造方法，其至少包含下列步驟： 芯紗原料步驟s11：提供一紗線彈性體１，其係一由第一彈性體１１及第二彈性體１２製成之芯紗，其中該第一彈性體１１為尼龍6或尼龍66纖維任其一，具有10D～70D之丹尼數，該第二彈性體１２為彈性纖維（Spandex），具有10D～70D之丹尼數。 鞘紗原料步驟s12：提供一外包纖維層２，其係選自棉、毛或其組合組成之鞘紗。 製料抽紗步驟s13：將該紗線彈性體１與該外包纖維層２相混合，以包紗方式使該外包纖維層２沿著該紗線彈性體１軸線方向以該紗線彈性體１為中心，環繞包覆在該紗線彈性體１周圍而製成一雙彈性體包芯紗結構，其中該雙彈性體包芯紗結構係牽伸其原始長度之2.0～3.6倍； 織紗成型步驟s14：將該雙彈性體包芯紗結構以經、緯編織之方式製成一彈性織物１００，該彈性織物１００包含複數經紗１１１及複數緯紗１２１，各該經紗１１１或各該緯紗１２１之一具有該雙彈性體包芯紗結構，或各該經紗１１１及各該緯紗１２１兩者均具有該雙彈性體包芯紗結構；以及 染色加工步驟s15：藉由染色方法對該彈性織物１００進行染色及修整，其中該彈性織物１００實質上無露白（grin through）之紗線彈性體１。如是，藉由上述揭露之流程構成一全新之彈性織物之製造方法。 本發明進一步包括一種包含大體上無紗線彈性體１露白（grin through ）之彈性織物１００之物品，如第３圖所示。在本實施例中，該彈性織物１００係由經紗１１１與緯紗１２１直接交織而成，其中該等經紗１１１與緯紗１２１中之至少一者包括上述雙彈性體包芯紗結構。在此例示之具體實施例中，採用上述之雙彈性體包芯紗結構作為經紗１１１，而作為緯紗１２１之物料可能與經紗者相同或不同。為了舉例說明之目的，顯示一種網眼組織來證明將經紗１１１與偉紗１２１交織之方式。然而，可採實際織物密織。舉例而言，彈性織物１００可以梭織、針織或兩種摻合方式所一體加工而成之布料，本實施例所示為平紋梭織，係經紗１１１及緯紗１２１以交替之方式一上一下之規律交織。最後藉由染色方法對該彈性織物１００進行染色及修整。 據此，本發明主要是運用雙彈性體包芯紗結構，將彈性纖維（Spandex）及尼龍6或尼龍66纖維融合成單一織物，利用兩種纖維不同之收縮比，因此能享有此兩種纖維之最佳優點，亦即彈性纖維（Spandex）之高拉伸性以及尼龍6或尼龍66纖維之絕佳回復力。具體來說，相較於傳統之彈性織物，本發明所提供之彈性織物不但能夠保留雙成分纖維織物既有之優點，例如高彈性與高回復性，而且在材料組成上由於有部分之纖維係使用棉纖維、彈性纖維（Spandex）及尼龍6或尼龍66纖維，使得彈性織物在紗線染色後的外觀上，藉由尼龍纖維會被污染上色，使得外觀比較不會有白點瑕疵，能夠具有較無露白現象又能使用於輕量衣料。藉此，以本發明所提雙彈性體包芯紗結構所織造之彈性織物，如梭織布料（上衣、褲料）、針織布料等，此布料具高彈性與高回復性，可用於具柔軟手感、合身持久、彈性回復力好，且不易變型亦無露白現象之輕量衣料上。 綜上所述，本發明係一種彈性織物之製造方法，可有效改善習用之種種缺點，以雙彈性體包芯紗結構所織造之彈性織物，具高彈性與高回復性，可用於具柔軟手感、合身持久、彈性回復力好，且不易變型亦無露白現象之輕量衣料上，進而使本發明之□生能更進步、更實用、更符合使用者之所須，確已符合發明專利申請之要件，爰依法提出專利申請。 惟以上所述者，僅為本發明之較佳實施例而已，當不能以此限定本發明實施之範圍；故，凡依本發明申請專利範圍及發明說明書內容所作之簡單的等效變化與修飾，皆應仍屬本發明專利涵蓋之範圍內。Please refer to FIG. 1 to FIG. 3, which are schematic diagrams showing the manufacturing process of the elastic fabric of the present invention, a three-dimensional elastic core-spun yarn structure according to an embodiment of the present invention, and the elasticity of an embodiment of the present invention. A schematic view of the partial structure of the fabric. As shown in the figure, the present invention is a method for manufacturing an elastic fabric comprising at least the following steps: a core yarn raw material step s11: providing a yarn elastic body 1 which is composed of a first elastic body 11 and a second elastic body 12 The core yarn is prepared, wherein the first elastic body 11 is one of nylon 6 or nylon 66 fiber, and has a Danny number of 10D to 70D, and the second elastic body 12 is an elastic fiber (Spandex) having 10D to 70D. The number of Danny. Sheath raw material step s12: An outer fibrous layer 2 is provided which is selected from the group consisting of cotton, wool or a combination thereof. a material drawing step s13: mixing the yarn elastic body 1 with the outer fiber layer 2, and wrapping the outer fiber layer 2 in the axial direction of the yarn elastic body 1 with the yarn elastic body 1 as a yarn wrapping method Centered around the yarn elastic body 1 to form a double elastic core-spun yarn structure, wherein the double-elastic core-spun yarn structure is drawn from the original length by 2.0 to 3.6 times; the yarn forming step s14 The double-elastic core-spun yarn structure is formed into an elastic fabric 100 by warp and weft knitting, and the elastic fabric 100 includes a plurality of warp yarns 111 and a plurality of weft yarns 121, and each of the warp yarns 111 or each of the weft yarns 121 has the same a double-elastic core-spun yarn structure, or each of the warp yarns 111 and each of the weft yarns 121 has the double-elastic core-spun yarn structure; and a dyeing processing step s15: dyeing and trimming the elastic fabric 100 by a dyeing method Wherein the elastic fabric 100 is substantially free of the yarn inlay 1 of the yarn. If so, a new method of manufacturing the elastic fabric is constructed by the above disclosed process. The invention further includes an article comprising an elastic fabric 100 that is substantially free of yarn elastomer 1 grin through, as shown in FIG. In the present embodiment, the elastic fabric 100 is directly interwoven by the warp yarns 111 and the weft yarns 121, wherein at least one of the warp yarns 111 and the weft yarns 121 comprises the above-described double-elastic core-spun yarn structure. In the illustrated embodiment, the above-described bi-elastic core-spun yarn structure is employed as the warp yarn 111, and the material as the weft yarn 121 may be the same as or different from the warp yarn. For purposes of illustration, a mesh structure is shown to demonstrate the manner in which the warp yarns 111 are interwoven with the voiles 121. However, the actual fabric can be woven. For example, the elastic fabric 100 can be woven, knitted or a fabric which is integrally processed by two blending methods. In this embodiment, the plain weave is woven, and the warp yarn 111 and the weft yarn 121 are alternately arranged one above another. Regular interweaving. Finally, the elastic fabric 100 is dyed and trimmed by a dyeing method. Accordingly, the present invention mainly utilizes a double-elastic core-spun yarn structure to fuse elastic fibers (Spandex) and nylon 6 or nylon 66 fibers into a single fabric, and utilizes different shrinkage ratios of the two fibers, thereby enjoying the two fibers. The best advantage is the high stretchability of spandex and the excellent restoring power of nylon 6 or nylon 66 fiber. In particular, the elastic fabric provided by the present invention not only retains the advantages of the two-component fiber fabric, such as high elasticity and high recovery, but also has a part of the fiber structure in comparison with the conventional elastic fabric. Using cotton fiber, spandex (Spandex) and nylon 6 or nylon 66 fiber, the appearance of the elastic fabric after dyeing the yarn will be contaminated and colored by the nylon fiber, so that the appearance will not be white, and It has a less whitening effect and can be used for lightweight clothing. Thereby, the elastic fabric woven by the double-elastic core-spun yarn structure of the present invention, such as woven fabric (top, trousers), knitted fabric, etc., has high elasticity and high recovery, and can be used for Soft touch, long-lasting, elastic recovery, and it is not easy to change or light white fabric. In summary, the present invention is a method for manufacturing an elastic fabric, which can effectively improve various disadvantages of the prior art. The elastic fabric woven by the double-elastic core-spun yarn structure has high elasticity and high recovery, and can be used for soft hand feeling. It is a lightweight fabric with long-lasting fit, good elastic recovery, and is not easy to change or white. It makes the life of the invention more progressive, more practical and more suitable for users. It has indeed met the invention patent application. The key requirements are to file a patent application in accordance with the law. However, the above is only the preferred embodiment of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto; therefore, the simple equivalent changes and modifications made in accordance with the scope of the present invention and the contents of the invention are modified. All should remain within the scope of the invention patent.
１‧‧‧紗線彈性體
１１‧‧‧第一彈性體
１２‧‧‧第二彈性體
２‧‧‧外包纖維層
１００‧‧‧彈性織物
１１１‧‧‧經紗
１２１‧‧‧緯紗
s11～s15‧‧‧步驟1‧‧‧Yarn Elastomers 11‧‧‧First Elastomers 12‧‧‧Second Elastomers 2‧‧‧Outer fibrous layer 100‧‧‧elastic fabric 111‧‧‧ warp yarn 121‧‧‧ weft
S11 ~ s15‧‧‧ steps
第１圖，係本發明彈性織物之製造流程示意圖。 第２圖，係本發明一實施例之雙彈性體包芯紗結構立體示意圖。 第３圖，係本發明一實施例之彈性織物之局部結構示意圖。Fig. 1 is a schematic view showing the manufacturing process of the elastic fabric of the present invention. Fig. 2 is a perspective view showing the structure of a double-elastic core-spun yarn according to an embodiment of the present invention. Fig. 3 is a partial structural view showing an elastic fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.