JP4117546B2 - Elastic composite spun yarn fabric, product using the same, and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

【００３０】
【発明の効果】
本発明の複合紡績糸布帛は、製織時はほとんど弾性がなく、張力による糸長差が生じにくい、取扱性、工程管理性に優れ、染色仕上げ工程ではじめて、弾性が発現する特徴を持ち、複塩素晒工程にも耐えうる優れた白度とソフトな触感が得られる弾性複合弾性紡績糸布帛を提供することを可能とした。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a fabric suitable for shirts, blouse fabrics, sheets, bandages, etc., having excellent chemical resistance and excellent process stability of spun knitting.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Elastic fibers using polyurethane (urea) elastic fibers (spandex) are widely used in the clothing field due to their excellent stretch properties, and in recent years, with the diversification of applications, various properties in addition to stretch properties For example, chemical resistance has been required.
However, spandex is generally inferior in chemical resistance compared to other materials due to its molecular structure, and has a problem of practical limitations.
[0003]
In order to solve these problems, attempts have been made to add additives to spandex, but this does not solve the essential characteristics of spandex, and sufficient effects have not been obtained. is there. Polyurethane elastic fibers generally have a high coefficient of friction and are often used in combination with other materials because they have many problems in the weaving and knitting process, have poor texture as clothing materials, and have almost no dyeability. It is. In particular, underwear and inner garments that require moisture absorption performance are made from cotton. As means for combining cotton fibers and elastic yarns, there are conventionally used methods of knitting and covering and means for covering. However, the core-sheath type composite spun yarn is excellent because it increases the coverage of the elastic yarn.
[0004]
However, when cotton fibers and polyurethane elastic yarn are combined, there is a big problem. This is because polyurethane fibers cannot withstand the bleaching process, which is essential for finishing cotton fibers. Currently, chlorite exposure is avoided, and the conditions are limited to mild exposure conditions with hydrogen peroxide. Damage to the mechanical properties of the fibers is a problem and is limited to limited applications. In addition, the composite spun yarn of cotton fiber and polyurethane elastic yarn has a high elongation rate, so there is a large variation in the elongation rate due to tension variation during the preparation process and weaving. Inconsistent problems are likely to occur and process management is troublesome.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The object of the present invention is to eliminate such conventional problems, and to use elastic elastic fiber as a core, and use a short fiber such as cotton fiber as a sheath. An object of the present invention is to provide an elastic composite spun yarn fabric that uses a yarn as warp and / or weft and has excellent process stability during weaving, a product thereof, and a production method thereof.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
That is, this invention consists of the following structures.
1. A woven fabric in which a core-sheath type composite spun yarn having a polyolefin elastic fiber as a core and a short fiber as a sheath is arranged in a warp and / or a weft, and the woven fabric properties in the direction in which the polyolefin-based elastic yarn is arranged (1 ) To (2). A composite spun yarn fabric characterized by the above.
(1) The constant load elongation rate is 10% or more.
(2) The shrinkage of the fabric is 5% or less.
2. 2. The composite spun yarn fabric according to the first aspect, wherein the mixed ratio of the polyolefin elastic fiber is 25% or less.
3. After drafting polyolefin fiber to make composite spun yarn with short fiber, wet and heat set at 60-95 ° C in a tension state, weave, and without passing through the set process, we go over the heat and heat set temperature in the subsequent dyeing and finishing process, A method for producing a composite spun yarn fabric, characterized by performing a relaxation treatment under substantially no tension and exposing to chlorite.
4). A dress shirt comprising at least a part of the composite spun yarn fabric according to the first aspect.
5. A blouse comprising at least part of the composite spun yarn fabric according to the first aspect.
6). A sheet comprising at least a part of the composite spun yarn fabric according to the first aspect.
7). A bandage comprising the composite spun yarn fabric according to the first aspect described above at least partially.
[0007]
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have been able to stabilize even a slight fluctuation in tension, which could not be achieved with a composite spun yarn containing spandex or the like, in view of the heat setting characteristics of polyolefin elastic fibers. As a result, the present invention has been achieved, which can assure high quality and withstand the chlorite exposure process.
[0008]
The polyolefin elastic fiber referred to in the present invention refers to an olefin that is uniformly branched and is substantially linear, and preferably subjected to a crosslinking treatment from the viewpoint of improving various physical properties such as heat resistance. It becomes the fiber which becomes.
Here, the olefin fiber which is uniformly branched and is substantially linear refers to a polymer obtained by polymerizing an olefin monomer, and the degree of branching of the polymer is uniform.
For example, low-density polyethylene copolymerized with α-olefin and elastic fiber described in JP-A-8-509530 are examples.
Examples of the crosslinking method include chemical crosslinking using a radical initiator, a coupling agent, and the like, and a method of crosslinking by irradiating energy rays. In consideration of stability after becoming a product, crosslinking by irradiation with energy rays is preferable, but the present invention is not limited to these methods.
[0009]
The fiber used for the sheath of the composite spun yarn gives soft touch feeling by fluff and is preferably a short fiber from the sense of giving a mild luster, among which the cotton fiber imparts hygroscopicity and is more preferable from the viewpoint of wearing durability. In addition, natural short fibers such as silk, hemp, and wool, regenerated fibers such as rayon, acetate, and cupra, and semi-synthetic short fibers can also be used. In addition, when dryness and wrinkle recovery (W & W property) are required, it is possible to blend synthetic fibers such as polyamide and polyester with the above-mentioned natural fibers, regenerated fibers and semi-synthetic fibers. is there.
[0010]
The composite yarn fabric of the present invention needs to be a fabric using a cross-linked polyolefin fiber for the core, a short fiber for the sheath, and a composite yarn for warp and / or weft. The polyolefin elastic fiber, preferably a cross-linked polyolefin fiber, can be temporarily set at a low temperature, and is fundamental to the present invention in that the elasticity is restored at a temperature higher than the temporary set and the chemical resistance is excellent. The sheath fiber is preferably a cotton fiber in order to maintain the moisture absorption characteristics required by the application. However, when there is a strong demand for easiness of drying during washing and antifungal properties, the chemical resistance is less than 70% of the sheath fiber Although some synthetic fiber staples such as polyester and nylon may be included, it is desirable that 30% or more is cotton fiber.
[0011]
The elongation properties of composite spun yarn fabrics are important. The elongation rate of the fabric was evaluated by the constant load elongation rate and the recovery rate at that time. The comfort at the time of wearing is determined by the clearance rate of the clothes and the stretch rate of the fabric, but due to the trend of fashion with high fit in recent years, the stretch rate is 10-20% for shirts and blouses, and 10% for bottoms such as slacks. An elongation rate of ˜25% is necessary, and the recovery rate is preferably 40% or more from the viewpoint of maintaining the shape.
[0012]
The mixing ratio of the cross-linked polyolefin fiber in the fabric affects the elongation stress of the fabric, and if it is too much, the power becomes too strong, which gives an unpleasant feeling. In addition, the cross-linked polyolefin fiber is expensive, and if the mixing ratio is high, the economy is disadvantageous. In addition, it is intended to have a comfortable performance related to moisture by being mixed with cotton fiber. From this point of view, the mixing ratio is preferably low and is preferably 25% or less. In particular, in order to impart one-way stretchability only in the warp or weft direction, when an elastic composite spun yarn is used only for the warp or weft, it is preferably 13% or less.
[0013]
The reason for using the polyolefin elastic fiber for the core yarn is as follows. One is an elastic yarn with chemical resistance that can withstand the chlorite exposure process necessary to obtain the whiteness and soft texture of cotton. The other is that it has a temporary setting property, it can be non-stretched during weaving, can be handled in the same way as an inelastic yarn, and has the characteristics that the stretchability can be recovered in a subsequent scouring and dyeing process.
[0014]
In order to utilize this property, the finely spun yarn is set with wet heat as a fine spinning cup. Usually, in this process, in order to eliminate the difference between the inner and outer layers, steam is supplied after the pressure is reduced in the pressure cooker so that the steam to be processed penetrates sufficiently to the inner layer, and 60 ° C is the lower limit in order to control the temperature uniformly. In terms of equipment, it can be up to 130 ° C. under pressure, but 95 ° C. is the upper limit in order to sufficiently restore elasticity in the scouring and dyeing processes. Here, there are two meanings of wet heat setting, one is to perform the above-mentioned temporary setting, and the other is to set the twist in order to improve the handleability in the next step. Thereafter, the spun yarn is rewound into cheese while removing the defects, and is subjected to a weaving process.
[0015]
The raw yarn subjected to the weaving process has an elongation of 6% or less and can be handled as a normal cotton spun yarn rather than an elastic composite spun yarn. When used for warp, it is warped after warping and gluing in the same way as normal cotton yarn, and used for looms. The heating temperature in the gluing and drying step is preferably 95 ° C. or less in order to guarantee the elastic expression in the scouring and dyeing steps. It is sufficient for the tension management during aging to be such that no thread breakage or sagging occurs. In the case of a loom weaving machine, the weft is supplied as it is, and in the case of a knot weaving machine, the weft is wound around the weft pipe, and is attached to the shuttle to be supplied as weft. In this case as well, the tension management may be within a range that does not impair the weaving efficiency.
[0016]
The woven fabric is passed through the next dyeing process. First, the fluff on the surface of the fabric is treated in the fried hair process. Next, relaxation treatment is performed by desizing and scouring, but when an elastic composite spun yarn is used as the warp, it is preferable to use a liquid-type treatment facility that does not apply tension to the warp as much as possible. When elastic composite spun yarn is used only for the weft, a normal continuous dyeing process is sufficient. Next, chlorite bleaching and sun holization processing are performed, and final setting is performed, but at this time, there is little elongation in the direction using the elastic composite spun yarn, and it is necessary to keep the elongation rate to 5% or less, preferably 3 to 1%. There is. It is not preferable to stretch and heat the sheet to exceed 5% because the stretchability of the fabric is lowered.
[0017]
Combining spun yarn with a twisting factor of 4.0-4.2 is 30-60 British cotton count, and it is used for warp and / or weft as a plain weave structure. A woven fabric is obtained. The performance required for shirting is comfort and aesthetic, comfort is breathability, hygroscopicity, stretchability, and aesthetics are gloss, whiteness, soft touch, etc. In addition, since the number of washings is large, dimensional stability during washing and ironing is also important. Although the air permeability is almost controlled by the weaving density, the shirt or blouse of the present invention composed of a woven fabric using a composite elastic yarn mainly composed of cotton fibers exhibits excellent characteristics in terms of moisture absorption and stretchability. Gloss, whiteness, and soft touch are excellent characteristics of the shirt or blouse of the present invention that is exposed to chlorite. The shirt or blouse of the present invention is also characterized in that permanent distortion that occurs when excessive elongation strain is applied is restored to its original size by a heat treatment such as ironing.
[0018]
A composite spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 3.8 to 4.2 is used as a 20 to 40 British cotton count, a plain weave structure is used for warps and / or wefts, and a cover factor of 9 to 14 is used to make a sheet. A woven fabric is obtained. The properties required for the sheets include moderate stretchability and recovery, hygroscopicity, dimensional stability during washing and ironing, and heat resistance. If the sheets are not stretchable and recoverable, not only the bet makeup becomes troublesome, but also shifts from the bed sheet due to body movement such as turning over at bedtime. Although the amount produced at a time is small, if there is no stretchability and recovery, the sheet is displaced from the laying body due to repetitive movements and needs to be reworked. However, if there is stretchability and recoverability, every deformation that occurs due to body movement, such as turning over, is absorbed and recovered by extension, and there is no stacking effect due to kicking back. Further, since the sheets of the present invention have heat resistance, they can withstand high-temperature washing and sterilization treatment, and are especially used for hospitals. In addition, as in the case of shirting, permanent distortion that occurs when excessive elongation strain is applied is also characterized by being restored to its original size by a heat treatment such as ironing.
[0019]
By using a composite spun yarn with a twisting factor of 3.8-4.0 as a 10-30 British cotton count, using a warp and / or weft as a plain weave structure, a cover factor of 6-10, and weaving with a narrow loom A bandage is obtained. The performance required as a bandage includes gentleness to the affected area, breathability, moisture absorption, heat retention, handling and the like. Breathability, moisture absorption, and heat retention have been sufficiently achieved with conventional cotton fabric bandages, but the handleability of conventional products that do not stretch is complicated, such as joints and heads, and bandages are applied to shaped parts. Required special techniques. However, by using the elastic composite spun yarn, even an amateur can easily wear it, and particularly easy wearing at home. Another feature of the bandage of the present invention is that there is a moderate elongation stress that does not cause collapse when wound, but the stress relaxes over time, the compressive force of the affected area decreases, and it is easy to the affected area. . Further, the chemical resistance of the elastic yarn and the ability to be exposed to chlorine after weaving have the advantage of lowering the production cost. The heat resistance is the same as in the case of sheets.
It is also useful for elastic sag due to repeated use because of its resilience in heat treatment.
[0020]
Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates in detail, it does not limit embodiment of this invention.
[0021]
Evaluation of this invention was implemented with the following method.
[Elongation rate and shrinkage rate of yarn]
Spinning, wet heat set up composite spun yarn using a lap reel with a circumference of 1 m, make 8 skeins, apply a load of 0.001 g to the core yarn denier (denier before drafting during spinning) The skein length was measured after 1 minute, and was taken as A (mm). Next, a load of 0.1 g / denier (spun yarn denier) was applied, and the skein length after 1 minute was measured to obtain B (mm). Then wrap in gauze under no load, fix with clips, put in boiling water and treat for 30 minutes. After treatment, leave at room temperature for 1 hour or more, remove gauze, dry with hot air dryer at 40 ° C for 1 hour, scrape load of 0.1 g / denier again, measure skein length, mm). Next, the load was removed and the elongation rate and the shrinkage rate were newly obtained from the following equations.
Elongation rate of yarn = {(BA) / B} × 100 (%)
Yarn shrinkage = {(BC) / B} × 100 (%)
[0022]
[Constant load elongation rate]
Measurement was performed according to the method described in Chapter IV “Measurement of mechanical properties of fabric” in “Standardization and analysis of texture evaluation” (edited by the Japan Textile Machinery Society). A sample with a width of 20 cm and a length of 5 cm was taken in the warp and warp directions of the fabric, and 4.00 x 10-3 in the length direction. The sample was pulled to a maximum load of 500 gf / cm at a constant / sec, and the process was changed to the deformation recovery process to determine the elongation at the maximum load. The average value in the warp direction and the weft direction was taken as the elongation rate. (If warp and weft are different, display each warp.)
[0023]
[Shrinkage of fabric]
It was measured in accordance with method A of JIS L 1057 “Testing method for iron shrinkage of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics”. The iron temperature was 180 ° C.
[0024]
【Example】
[Example 1]
A rough yarn made of cotton fibers having an average fiber length of 26 mm is drafted 48 times between the front roller and the back roller, and at the same time, a monofilament of cross-linked polyolefin fiber 44 dtex is drafted 3.5 times and supplied to the front roller. A twisted coefficient of 4.2 was wound around a fine spinning cup under a tension of 36 g to obtain a core-sheath type composite spun yarn of 40 cotton count. The mixture ratio of the crosslinked polyolefin fiber was 8.6%. The spun yarn was set for 15 minutes at 70 ° C. Table 1 shows the elongation and shrinkage of the yarn. A plain weaving woven fabric was obtained by arranging 40 counts of cotton yarn at a density of 90 yarns / in for warp and 70 yarns / in of the composite spun yarn for weft yarns. The fabric was baked, desoldered, scoured, bleached, and mercerized in a normal continuous finishing process, and set at 170 ° C. by extending 3% in the width direction and 5% in the warp direction. Finally, a sun-holization process was performed. Bleaching was carried out at 35 ° C. for 45 minutes with 35 g / liter of sodium chlorite (25%). The resulting woven fabric was rich in whiteness, had a soft tactile sensation, and was a high-grade woven fabric having excellent stretchability and recoverability in the lateral direction. Table 1 shows the constant load elongation and shrinkage of this fabric. When this fabric was used to sew a dress shirt, a glossy and comfortable shirt with excellent stretchability was obtained.
[0025]
[Example 2]
A rough yarn made of cotton fibers having an average fiber length of 26 mm is drafted 48 times between the front roller and the back roller, and at the same time, a monofilament of cross-linked polyolefin fiber 44 dtex is drafted 3.5 times and supplied to the front roller. A twisted coefficient of 4.2 was wound around a fine spinning cup under a tension of 36 g to obtain a core-sheath type composite spun yarn of 40 cotton count. The mixture ratio of the crosslinked polyolefin fiber was 8.6%. The spun yarn was set for 15 minutes at 70 ° C. A plain weaving woven fabric was obtained by arranging 40 counts of cotton yarn at a density of 90 yarns / in for warp and 70 yarns / in of the composite spun yarn for weft yarns. The fabric was baked, desoldered, scoured, bleached, and mercerized in a normal continuous finishing process, and set at 170 ° C. by extending 3% in the width direction and 5% in the warp direction. Finally, a sun-holization process was performed. Bleaching was carried out at 35 ° C. for 45 minutes with 35 g / liter of sodium chlorite (25%). The resulting woven fabric was rich in whiteness, had a soft tactile sensation, and was a high-grade woven fabric having excellent stretchability and recoverability in the lateral direction. Table 1 shows the constant load elongation and shrinkage of this fabric. The obtained woven fabric was cut at a fixed length, and the cut ends were sewn into sheets.
[0026]
[Example 3]
A rough yarn made of cotton fibers having an average fiber length of 26 mm is drafted 48 times between the front roller and the back roller, and at the same time, a monofilament of cross-linked polyolefin fiber 44 dtex is drafted 3.5 times and supplied to the front roller. A twisted coefficient was set to 4.0 and wound into a spinning cup under a tension of 36 g to obtain a core-sheath type composite spun yarn having 40 cotton counts. The mixture ratio of the crosslinked polyolefin fiber was 8.6%. The spun yarn was set for 15 minutes at 70 ° C. The warp yarn is composed of the composite spun yarn and 40 cotton yarn (separately spun, twisting factor is 4.0, and set for 15 minutes at 70 ° C for 15 minutes), and the weft yarn is 20th cotton yarn. A tape with a plain weave structure was obtained with a width of 5 cm, a warp density of 20 pieces / cm, and a weft density of 24 pieces / cm. This tape had almost no elasticity. This was scoured by ordinary methods, bleached with chlorite and washed to obtain a bleached tape. This tape was rich in elasticity and showed a soft texture. The content of the polyolefin elastic yarn was 2.9%.
[0027]
[Comparative Example 1]
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the elastic yarn supplied at the time of composite spinning was polyurethane elastic yarn (Toyobo Espa Type 765) 44 dtex. The fabric had a width variation of 1 to 2 cm in the longitudinal direction, and extreme yellowing occurred in the bleaching process, making the fabric unusable. In addition, the strength of the elastic yarn was greatly reduced, and there was a problem in durability.
[0028]
[Example 4]
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the carrier was not set after spinning. Although the fabric performance is sufficient, if a shuttle loom is used when weaving the fabric, the weaving width will increase. It was necessary to limit the loom because a woven fabric having a width could not be obtained. Moreover, although it was partially at the time of weaving, chattering occurred and defects of the fabric were observed.
[0029]
[Table 1]

[0030]
【The invention's effect】
The composite spun yarn fabric of the present invention has almost no elasticity during weaving, is unlikely to cause a difference in yarn length due to tension, has excellent handleability and process controllability, and has the characteristics that elasticity appears only in the dyeing finishing process. It has become possible to provide an elastic composite elastic spun yarn fabric that has excellent whiteness and soft feel that can withstand chlorine exposure.

Claims (7)

A woven fabric in which a core-sheath type composite spun yarn having a cross-linked polyolefin elastic fiber as a core and a short fiber as a sheath is arranged as a warp and / or a weft, and the fabric characteristics in the direction in which the polyolefin-based elastic yarn is arranged are as follows: A composite spun yarn fabric satisfying (1) to (2) and exposed to chlorite .
(1) The constant load elongation rate is 10% or more.
(2) The shrinkage of the fabric is 5% or less. The composite spun yarn fabric according to claim 1, wherein the mixed use rate of the cross-linked polyolefin elastic fiber is 25% or less. After drafting a cross-linked polyolefin elastic fiber to make a composite spun yarn together with short fibers, wet and heat set at 60 to 95 ° C in a tension state, then weave and wet heat set temperature in the subsequent dyeing finishing process without passing through the setting process Thus, a method for producing a composite spun yarn fabric, characterized in that it is subjected to relaxation treatment under substantially no tension and chlorite exposure. A dress shirt comprising the composite spun yarn fabric according to claim 1 at least partially. A blouse comprising the composite spun yarn fabric according to claim 1 at least partially. A sheet comprising at least a part of the composite spun yarn fabric according to claim 1. A bandage comprising the composite spun yarn fabric according to claim 1 at least partially.