JP4366644B2 - Stretch-spun fiber fabric and fiber product with excellent shape stability - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretch spun fiber product composed of a fabric excellent in stretchability and form stability and a method for producing the same. Further, the present invention relates to a stretch-spun fiber product having elastic properties and cross-linking structure, which is composed of cellulosic staple fibers and excellent in stretchability and form stability, and a method for producing the same.

  Comfort is one of the comforts of clothes, and one of the factors is ease of movement. When the human body is bent, the skin stretches and follows. For example, the elbow is extended by about 35-40% in the length direction of the arm by bending. On the other hand, if the clothes are not stretched, it feels uncomfortable to wear. As a means to compensate for this, the clothes are stretched sufficiently or a clearance is provided between the clothes and the skin. For this reason, the woven fabric which is relatively difficult to stretch has a large space, and the knit product which is easy to stretch has little space. On the other hand, the demand for reducing this space has been developed from the appearance of clothes and fashion trends, and the stretchability of clothes materials has been required, and stretch fabrics have been developed. A typical example of this is a crimped yarn knitted fabric. However, these materials have little stretchability compared to skin elongation, and polyurethane elastic yarns have been developed as a material to meet further demands, and their composite fabrics are adored. On the other hand, the characteristics required for shirts and blouse are not only appearance but also moisture permeability and moisture absorption. This characteristic is particularly important in Japan's hot and humid climate, and cotton or cotton blend materials are the main material for shirts and blouses except for special applications. In order to satisfy these two requirements, a composite material of cotton and urethane elastic yarn is used as a stretch shirt fabric. However, in order to use cotton materials as shirts and blouses, bleaching is indispensable, and high-grade products often use chlorite bleaching to produce a soft touch and elegant luster. On the other hand, polyurethane fibers have low chemical resistance and are particularly vulnerable to chlorine. For this reason, in the case of a composite material of cotton and urethane elastic yarn, it is at best to make a mild treatment as much as possible by exposure to hydrogen peroxide with a low degree of damage, and it must be put up with gloss and texture. If necessary, chlorite can be exposed with cotton in a wadding state, and the wadding and polyurethane elastic yarn can be combined to form a shirt or blouse, but the efficiency is low and the cost is high.

  On the other hand, stretchability is of course the property required for stretch fabrics, but stretch recovery is also important. If the stretched material does not return, sagging occurs, which becomes a defect in clothes. This recovery characteristic depends on the elongation stress. In particular, a staple fabric having a large inter-fiber binding force cannot obtain a sufficient recovery performance without a large elongation stress. As a result, there is a problem that the recovery performance cannot be satisfied unless it is a hard stretch.

  Also, for shirts and blouses that are frequently washed, it is a big handicap that cotton products are inferior in wash and wear.

  The present inventors diligently studied a soft stretch shirt having chemical resistance and high recovery, and provided a stretch-spun fiber product composed of a fabric having excellent stretchability and form stability, and a method for producing the same. The purpose is to do.

That is, this invention consists of the following structures.
1. 50. A fabric comprising cross-linked polyolefin elastic fibers and cellulosic staple fibers, wherein the content of the cross-linked polyolefin elastic fibers is 15% or less, and the cellulosic staple fibers have a cellulose I-type crystal structure of 50% of all crystals. Less than wt%, formalin bonded to cellulose is 0.5 wt% or more, constant load elongation is 15% or more, recovery rate is 50% or more, and wrinkle judgment after washing is grade 3 or more A stretch spun fiber fabric, characterized in that
2 . The stretch-spun fiber fabric according to the first aspect is a woven fabric, and a textile product obtained by sewing the woven fabric.
3 . The stretch-spun fiber fabric according to the first aspect is a knitted fabric, and a textile product obtained by sewing the knitted fabric.

  The stretch-spun product of the present invention is a stretch fiber product having both high whiteness and soft texture obtained by durolite bleaching and high stretch recovery. In addition, it is a soft stretch fiber product that has low stress when stretched and is thin and soft.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The fiber fabric of the present invention means a fiber structure such as a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, a braided fabric, and the like, and the fiber product means a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, a braided fabric using yarns composed of cotton fibers, mixed staple fibers and elastic yarns. Meaning of fabrics and sewing products such as shirts, slacks, blouses and hats made of the fabrics.
One of the requirements of the present invention is to use a cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn as the elastic yarn. The cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic yarn is excellent in chemical resistance and particularly excellent in chlorine resistance. It is also selected for heat resistance and is characterized by lightness. Compared to polyurethane-based elastic yarns, it is characterized by low elongation stress while having the same high elongation characteristics. The cross-linked polyolefin fiber referred to in the present invention is a fiber that is uniformly branched and is obtained by subjecting a substantially linear olefin to a cross-linking treatment. Here, the olefin fiber which is uniformly branched and is substantially linear refers to a polymer obtained by polymerizing an olefin monomer, and the degree of branching of the polymer is uniform.
For example, low-density polyethylene copolymerized with α-olefin and elastic fiber described in JP-A-8-509530 are examples. Examples of the crosslinking method include chemical crosslinking using a radical initiator, a coupling agent, and the like, and a method of crosslinking by irradiating energy rays. In consideration of stability after becoming a product, crosslinking by irradiation with energy rays is preferable, but the present invention is not limited to these methods.
The second requirement of the present invention is that the composite fabric is sufficiently relaxed under moist heat to release its elasticity and then crosslinked to the cotton fiber in a non-tensioned state. For the first time, by combining these two, a chlorite-exposed fiber product that is capable of being subjected to chlorite and having a low elongation stress, a high elongation-recycling property and excellent wash and wear properties can be obtained.

  The cellulosic staple fibers referred to in the present invention include cotton, polynosic, rayon, hemp, etc., and these may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Although not preferable in terms of moisture permeability and moisture absorption performance, up to 70% of synthetic fiber staples may be blended in applications that require strength preferentially. Synthetic fiber staple refers to polyester or polyamide fiber. If it exceeds 70%, not only the soft texture, moisture permeability and hygroscopic performance are lowered, but also the elongation recovery performance is lowered. Elongation characteristics of fabrics that affect the comfort of textile products can be evaluated by the constant load elongation rate, and 15% or more is necessary. Below this, the ease of movement during wearing is as long as the clearance between the shirt and the skin is not increased. Disturb. Preferably they are 20% or more and 30% or less. If you take a lot of room, it is unsightly and lacks smartness. At this time, if the stretch recovery property is not 50% or more, a wavy sag is formed in the stretched portion after the recovery, which is bad in appearance. Preferably it is 65% or more, more preferably 70% or more. Incidentally, the softness of the stretch can be evaluated by the stress at the time of 10% elongation during the elongation process, and is preferably 50 g / cm or less. Wash and wear property indicates the degree of wrinkle of the fabric after washing, and a grade 3 or higher is required. Below the third grade, it is unsightly unless ironing is performed, and the third grade or higher means that it can be worn without ironing. The content of the cross-linked polyolefin fiber needs to be less than 15%. The content of the cross-linked polyolefin fiber mentioned here refers to the content of the cross-linked polyolefin fiber in the fibers constituting the stretch direction, and in the case of a one-way stretch fabric, the content in the warp or weft in the direction of elongation. In the case of a 2-way stretch fabric, it refers to the content in warp and weft. If it exceeds 15%, the elastic yarn is generally more expensive than the cellulose fiber, so that not only the fabric price is too expensive, but also the softness of the stretch is impaired, and the soft texture and gloss peculiar to the cellulose fiber are not good. In addition, since the cross-linked polyolefin fiber has no dyeability at all, when it is dyed in a deep color when the covering property is inferior, it is possible to cause an eye-opening and an irritating feeling. is there. When the composite of cellulosic fibers and elastic yarn is made into a woven fabric, there are a method of using a core-sheath composite spun yarn with a core as an elastic yarn, a method of using a spun yarn and an elastic yarn as a twisted yarn, etc. A composite spun yarn is preferred for the purpose of increasing the covering property. In the case of a knitted fabric, it is possible to knit the bare yarn of elastic yarn and the spun yarn of cellulose fiber in addition to the above-mentioned composite spun yarn or woven yarn, but it is preferable to use it as a composite spun yarn from the viewpoint of irritability and touch.

  Here, the crosslinked structure of the cellulose fiber and the stretch recovery property of the fabric will be described. As described above, the staple fiber having a twisted structure has a greater restraining force between the fibers in the fabric as compared with the filament fiber, and the deformation of the cellulose fiber that deforms when stretched (generally from an arcuate curved shape to a linear shape). If the recovery stress of the elastic yarn is weaker than the binding force, it remains as a residual strain and reduces the duplexability. Therefore, in order to improve the recovery performance, it is necessary to increase the recovery stress of the elastic yarn, and as a result, a high-duty fabric cannot be obtained unless a high power stretch is used. However, if a cross-linked structure is introduced into the cellulose fiber while the cellulose fiber is deformed into an arcuate shape, the arcuate structure is memorized. In addition, a stress returning to the bow shape is generated in the cellulose fiber, and sufficient recoverability can be selected even with a soft stress of the elastic yarn. This mechanism is the same for a polyurethane-based elastic composite yarn fabric, and can be used as a means for improving the elongational duplication property if the chlorite exposure step is ignored.

  The stretch fabric of the present invention is most suitably used as a dress shirt in the case of a woven fabric and as a knit shirt in the case of a knitted fabric. The excellent properties of moisture permeability and hygroscopicity, whiteness, gloss, stretchability and recovery, and wash and wear satisfy all the required characteristics of shirts and are the optimal materials. Of course, a colored shirt can be dyed. However, since the cross-linking treatment of the cellulose fiber memorizes the form at the time of processing, the cross-linking treatment needs to be processed in the form of the final product in order to ignore the deformation after the cross-linking treatment. For example, in the case of a woven fabric, normal hair roasting, desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, finishing setting, sewing on a shirt, and crosslinking treatment are then performed. In the case of knitted fabrics, it is possible to sew with cut and saw like woven fabrics, or as a molded knitted fabric, after joining with linking, it is possible to scour, bleach, dye, finish set to make a shirt, Then, a crosslinking treatment is performed.

  Next, the crosslinking treatment method will be described. One method of forming a crosslinked structure in cellulose fibers is a so-called gas phase formalin processing method using formaldehyde vapor and sulfur disulfide gas, and the other is resin processing of formalin compounds and polycarboxylic acid compounds. There is a so-called post-cure resin processing method in which a dispersion of a metal salt acting as an agent and a catalyst is impregnated and then heat treated. In any case, the degree of cross-linking reaction between cellulose and the crosslinking agent can be determined by the amount of bound formalin, and the amount of bound formalin is 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 0.8% by weight or more. When the amount is less than 0.5% by weight, not only the wash and wear property is insufficient, but also the shape memory property of the cellulose fiber is insufficient and the elongation and duplication property of the product is insufficient.

  In this treatment, the crystal structure of the cellulose fiber is an important factor. In order for formaldehyde vapor to penetrate uniformly into the cellulose fiber and form a uniform cross-linked structure, the cellulose I type crystal is 50% by weight in the total crystal. It is important to make the following, and if it exceeds 50% by weight, a uniform cross-linked structure cannot be obtained, and both wash and wear properties and elongation / replication properties are lowered. As a method for reducing cellulose type I crystals, there are an alkali treatment method using sodium hydroxide and a liquid ammonia treatment. The former has a function of crystal transformation from cellulose type I to cellulose type II and the latter from cellulose type I to cellulose type III. is there. At this time, especially in the case of alkali treatment, it is important to reduce the tension of the cellulose fiber as much as possible. In advance, liquid such as liquid dyeing machine, washer, tumbler, sanforize, etc. or mechanical stagnation effect is applied to remove distortion. It is preferable to do. This treatment also has an effect of relaxing the elastic yarn, leading to an improvement in stretchability.

  In addition, it is also a preferred embodiment that a smoothing agent is included as a pretreatment before molding, and in particular, it is possible to improve the tear strength, which is a defect of the fiber product of the present invention, to improve the elongation reproducibility, and It is also preferable from the viewpoint of improving the sewability. As the smoothing agent used for this purpose, silicon such as dimethylpolysiloxane and epoxy-modified silicon amino-modified silicon, wax-based smoothing agent, polyethylene-based, fatty acid amide-based, polyurethane-based, polyester-based, acrylic ester-based smoothing agent and nonion, Cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants can be used.

  Furthermore, functional processing agents such as water repellents, antibacterial agents, deodorants and antistatic agents can be used in the present invention at the same time.

Hereinafter, a method for measuring various characteristics used in the present invention will be described.
[Calculation of elastic fiber content]
(In the case of 1-way stretch fabric)
Fineness of elastic yarn (decitex) x draft magnification during compounding x composition ratio of composite yarn in the yarn in the direction of elongation ÷ fineness of composite yarn (decitex) x 100
(In the case of 2-way stretch and knitted fabric)
Elastic yarn fineness (decitex) x draft ratio during compounding x composition ratio of composite yarn in all raw yarns ÷
Fineness of composite yarn (decitex) x 100

[Constant load elongation rate and recovery rate]
Measurement was performed according to the method described in Chapter IV “Measurement of mechanical properties of fabric” in “Standardization and analysis of texture evaluation” (edited by the Japan Textile Machinery Society). A sample having a width of 20 cm and a length of 20 cm was taken in the warp and warp directions of the fabric, the gauge length was 5 cm, and 4.00 × 10 −3 in the length direction. At a constant / sec, the sample was pulled up to a maximum load of 500 gf / cm, and the deformation recovery process was performed to determine the elongation at the maximum load. The average value in the warp direction and the weft direction was taken as the elongation rate. (If warp and weft are different, display each warp.)
In the case of knitted fabric, the maximum load was set to 100 gf / cm.

[Wrinkle judgment after washing]
(For textiles)
According to JIS-L-1096 method A (method using a stirring type washing machine), three 40 cm × 40 cm test pieces are taken in parallel to the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, bordered to avoid fraying, Marked the direction. The above sample was put together with the load cloth so that the bath ratio was 40: 1 at 40 ° C., and an automatic washing operation was performed. After drying at 60 ° C. with a tumbler drier, the nine judgment values evaluated by three observers were compared with the judgment criteria (Table 11), and the three samples were evaluated.
(For knitting)
In accordance with JIS-L-1018 method A (method using a stirring type washing machine), evaluation was performed in the same manner as the fabric.

[Content of cellulose type I crystals]
Cellulose monofilaments were removed from the woven or knitted fabric and measured by X-ray diffraction. The measurement of the content rate of cellulose I, cellulose II, and cellulose III is P.I. H. Herman & A. Weddinger: J.M. Appl. phys. , 19, 491-506 (1948) and Hayashi et al., Hokkaido University research report, p. 83 (1948).

[Measurement of bound formalin content]
About 2 g of cellulose fiber is collected from the fiber product, treated with boiling water for 15 minutes, washed with water, completely dry and weighed, then decomposed in 20% sulfuric acid by steam distillation, and the produced formalin is recovered in an aqueous sodium hydrogen sulfite solution. After the excess sodium hydrogen sulfite was oxidized by the iodine titration method, the adduct was decomposed with an alkali, the amount of formalin and the added sodium hydrogen sulfite was determined, and the amount of formalin relative to the product amount was expressed in% by weight.

(Example 1)
A rough yarn made of cotton fibers having an average fiber length of 26 mm is drafted 48 times between the front roller and the back roller, and at the same time, a monofilament of cross-linked polyolefin fiber 44 dtex is drafted 3.5 times and supplied to the front roller. A twisted coefficient of 4.2 was wound around a fine spinning cup under a tension of 36 g to obtain a core-sheath type composite spun yarn of 40 cotton count. The mixture ratio of the crosslinked polyolefin fiber was 8.6%. The spun yarn was set for 15 minutes at 70 ° C. Table 1 shows the elongation and shrinkage of the yarn. A plain weaving fabric was obtained by arranging 40 counts of cotton yarn at a density of 90 / in for warp and 70 / in of the composite spun yarn at a weft. The fabric was subjected to hair baking, desizing, scouring, bleaching and mercerization in a normal continuous finishing process, and set at 170 ° C. by extending 0% in the width direction and 5% in the warp direction. Finally, a sun-holization process was performed. Bleaching was performed at 95 ° C. for 45 minutes with 35 g / liter of sodium chlorite (25%). A shirt was sewn using this processed cloth. 10 kg of this shirt was set in a gas phase reaction treatment tank having a capacity of 14 Ryube, and 7.5 liters of 37% formalin aqueous solution was uniformly injected together with water vapor in the form of a mist, and then 250 g of sulfur dioxide gas was injected. Thereafter, the temperature of the gas phase reaction treatment tank was raised to 128 ° C. and kept at this temperature for 5 minutes. Thereafter, deformalin treatment was performed with a small amount of aqueous ammonia and water vapor. The evaluation results of the obtained shirt are shown in Table 1.

(Example 2)
In Example 1, the processed cloth after mercerization and setting was dipped in liquid ammonia for 2 seconds, squeezed at a drawing rate of 70%, set for 10 seconds, and then dried at 90 ° C. for 1 minute. After the shirt was sewn with this processed cloth, vapor phase formalin treatment was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1. The evaluation results of the obtained shirt are shown in Table 1.

(Example 3)
The work cloth obtained in Example 1 was dipped in the following processing agent composition solution before sewing, squeezed at a drawing rate of 72%, dried at 110 ° C. for 3 minutes, then sewn into a shirt, and the 10 kg shirt was Then, the temperature was raised to 155 ° C., and the treatment was carried out at this temperature for 10 minutes. Thereafter, a cleaning process was performed with water vapor. The evaluation results of the obtained shirt are shown in Table 1.
(Processing agent composition)
Becamine LK-S
(Glyoxal resin, manufactured by Dainippon Ink & Chemicals, Inc.) 15.0 parts
Catherist G
(Dainippon Ink Chemical Co., Ltd., cross-linking catalyst) 5.0 parts Finetex PEN
(Dainippon Ink Chemical Co., Ltd., polyethylene emulsion) 2.0 parts Nikka Silicone EP1010
(Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., silicone softener) 2.0 parts
86.0 parts of water

(Example 4)
Using the composite spun yarn No. 40 (carry set up) obtained in Example 1, a knitted fabric with a Kanoko structure was obtained with a loop length of 275 mm / 100 W using a 28 gauge stand circular knitting machine. The raw machine has a knitting density of 42 C / in. X 32 W / in. Met. This was scoured, bleached and mercerized under the same conditions as in Example 1 and set to a density of 57 C / in. × 44 W / in. Got knitted fabric. This knitted fabric was impregnated with the processing composition solution in the same manner as in Example 3, dried, and then a shirt was sewn with cut and saw. This knit shirt was subjected to heat treatment and cleaning treatment in the same manner as in Example 3. The evaluation results of the obtained shirt are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
A shirt was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that in Example 1, no gas phase holmarin treatment was performed. The evaluation results of the obtained shirt are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
A shirt was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that mercerization and liquid ammonia treatment were not performed in Example 2. The evaluation results of the obtained shirt are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 3)
A shirt was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the crosslinked polyolefin fiber 44 dtex yarn of Example 1 was a polyurethane elastic yarn (Toyobo Espa 465) 44 dtex. The evaluation results of the obtained shirt are shown in Table 1. The resulting shirt had very low elongation stress and had turned yellow.

  The stretch-spun fiber product of the present invention is composed of a fabric excellent in chemical resistance and high recovery property, and further excellent in form stability, and can be widely used for all stretch-spun fiber products.

Claims (3)

  50. A fabric comprising cross-linked polyolefin elastic fibers and cellulosic staple fibers, wherein the content of the cross-linked polyolefin elastic fibers is 15% or less, and the cellulosic staple fibers have a cellulose I-type crystal structure of 50% of all crystals. Less than wt%, formalin bonded to cellulose is 0.5 wt% or more, constant load elongation is 15% or more, recovery rate is 50% or more, and wrinkle judgment after washing is grade 3 or more A stretch spun fiber fabric, characterized in that   The stretch-spun fiber fabric according to claim 1 is a woven fabric, and a textile product obtained by sewing the woven fabric.   The stretch-spun fiber fabric according to claim 1 is a knitted fabric, and a textile product obtained by sewing the knitted fabric.