JP4269225B2 - Stretch denim and its use - Google Patents
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本発明はジーンズ衣料に用いられるデニム布帛に関し、更に詳しくは着用時の着心地を良くするストレッチ性とストンウォッシュ用の風合いを出すためのクロライト晒にも耐えうる耐薬品性を兼ね備えたストレッチデニムに関する。 TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a denim fabric used for jeans apparel, and more particularly, stretch denim that combines stretchability to improve comfort when worn and chemical resistance that can withstand chlorite exposure to produce a texture for stone wash. About.
ジーンズ衣料は作業着として発祥したが、今や老若男女を問わず、タウンウエアーとして着用されている。この材料となるデニム布帛は幌地から始まり、丈夫でごわごわの風合いに特徴があるが、洗い込むにつれ味わいが増すことに、人気の所以の１つがある。このため新品当初からこの着古し風合いを出す目的でストーンウォッシュ加工やバイオウォッシュ加工があみ出された。しかし、強度低下や加工コストの問題から塩素晒加工で同等の風合いや外観を出す処方が見出され、綿のインジゴ染色布帛の一般的な加工法とされつつある。他方、特にレディースのジーパンが細く、股上の浅い下半身に密着したデザインの流行により、座位時のパンツの伸縮が望まれてきている。このことからストレッチデニムへの要求が強まりスパンデックス等を混用したストレッチデニムの登場を見た（例えば、特許文献１参照）。スパンデックス以外でも捲縮糸を用いる方法もある（例えば、特許文献２参照）。このストレッチデニムにおいても、着古し風合いの要求があり、機械的に磨耗させる方法や綿１００％では晒加工する方法があるが、ポリウレタン使いでは綿と同等の晒加工では劣化の問題がある（例えば、特許文献３参照）。本発明は要求されるストレッチ性と塩素晒にも耐えうる耐薬品性を兼ね備えたストレッチデニムを提案することにその目的がある。 Jeans garments originated as work clothes, but now they are worn as town wear regardless of gender. The denim fabric used as a material has a strong and stiff texture, starting from the hood, but one of the popular reasons is that the taste increases as you wash it. For this reason, stone wash processing and bio-wash processing have been introduced from the beginning of new products in order to bring out this worn out texture. However, due to the problem of strength reduction and processing cost, a prescription that gives the same texture and appearance by chlorine bleaching has been found and is becoming a general processing method for cotton indigo dyed fabrics. On the other hand, the expansion of the pants when sitting is desired due to the trend of the design that is especially thin in ladies' jeans and in close contact with the shallow lower body. For this reason, the demand for stretch denim has increased, and the appearance of stretch denim with mixed use of spandex or the like has been seen (for example, see Patent Document 1). There is a method using crimped yarns other than spandex (see, for example, Patent Document 2). Even in this stretch denim, there is a demand for wear and texture, and there is a method of mechanically wearing and a method of bleaching with 100% cotton, but with polyurethane, there is a problem of deterioration with bleaching equivalent to cotton (for example, (See Patent Document 3). The object of the present invention is to propose a stretch denim having both the required stretchability and chemical resistance that can withstand chlorine exposure.
デニム布帛は厚地で粗こうであるため、ストレッチ性を付与するためには、かなり強固な伸長および同回復性能が要求され、一般の布帛に応用される、撚糸やバイコン等のポリエステル系の糸を用いる手法には無理があり、一般的にはスパンデックス系の複合糸が用いられてきた。しかし、スパンデックス系弾性糸は耐薬品性が劣ることから、塩素晒に耐えず、より晒作用がマイルドな過酸化水素晒等で長時間を要して加工されているのが実状である。また、スパンデックス系弾性糸はセット性が全くないことから経糸として用いる場合、ロープ状でインジゴ染め、糊付けした後でビーミング時に分糸する際、弾性が発現し、綿糸に比べ取り扱いが面倒な問題も内在している。 Since denim fabric is thick and rough, it requires a fairly strong elongation and recovery performance in order to impart stretch properties. Polyester yarns such as twisted yarns and bicons, which are applied to general fabrics, are required. The method used is unreasonable, and spandex-based composite yarns have generally been used. However, spandex-based elastic yarns are inferior in chemical resistance, so that the actual condition is that they need to be processed for a long time by exposure to hydrogen peroxide, etc., which does not endure chlorine exposure and is milder in exposure. In addition, spandex-based elastic yarns have no setability, so when used as warp yarns, they exhibit elasticity when roped, indigo-dyed, glued and then split during beaming, and are more troublesome to handle than cotton yarns. Is inherent.
本発明はストレッチ性と耐薬品性を満足し、製織時の取り扱い性にも優れた弾性複合糸を用いたデニム生地を提供することを課題とする。 An object of the present invention is to provide a denim fabric using an elastic composite yarn that satisfies stretch properties and chemical resistance and is excellent in handling during weaving.
即ち本発明は以下の構成によりなる。
１．セルローズ系短繊維を主とする２０英式綿番手より太い紡績糸を経糸とし、芯にポリオレフィン系弾性糸を用いた複合糸を緯糸とする斜文織物であり、経糸及び／又は緯糸中に含まれるポリオレフィン系弾性糸の割合が３〜１５％であることを特徴とするストレッチデニム。
２．経糸及び／又は緯糸に１００デシテックス以上のポリオレフィン系弾性糸を芯とする複合紡績糸を配してなることを特徴とする上記第１記載のストレッチデニム。
３．緯糸に用いる複合糸が１００デシテックス以上のポリオレフィン系弾性糸を芯に、ポリエステル系一段仮撚り加工糸を巻き付け糸としたカバリング糸であることを特徴とする上記第１記載のストレッチデニム。
４．ポリオレフィン系弾性糸が架橋型ポリオレフィン系弾性糸であることを特徴とする上記第１記載のストレッチデニム。
５．少なくとも緯方向の定荷重伸長率が２０％以上で、洗濯収縮率が１０％以下であることを特徴とする上記第１記載のストレッチデニム。
６．経糸及び／又は緯糸に用いる複合糸を製織前に６０℃以上で緊張湿熱セットし、定荷重伸長率（測定方法別途規定）を５％以下とし、製織後の低張力下でリラックス熱処理することによりストレッチ性を発現させることを特徴とするストレッチデニムの製造方法。
７．上記第１記載のストレッチデニムを少なくともその一部に用いてなることを特徴とするジーンズスラックス。
８．上記第１記載のストレッチデニムを少なくともその一部に用いてなることを特徴とするジーンズスカート。
９．上記第１記載のストレッチデニムを少なくともその一部に用いてなることを特徴とするジーンズジャンパー。
That is, the present invention has the following configuration.
1. This is a diagonal fabric with a warp yarn consisting mainly of cellulose short fibers, which is thicker than 20 British cotton count, and a weft yarn composed of a polyolefin-based elastic yarn at the core, and is included in the warp and / or weft. A stretch denim characterized in that the proportion of the polyolefin-based elastic yarn is 3 to 15%.
2. The stretch denim as described in the above item 1, wherein a composite spun yarn having a polyolefin-based elastic yarn of 100 dtex or more as a core is arranged on the warp and / or the weft.
3. 2. The stretch denim according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn used for the weft is a covering yarn using a polyolefin-based elastic yarn of 100 dtex or more as a core and a polyester-based one-stage false twisted yarn as a winding yarn.
4). 2. The stretch denim according to claim 1, wherein the polyolefin elastic yarn is a cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn.
5. The stretch denim as described in the above item 1, wherein at least a constant load elongation rate in the weft direction is 20% or more and a washing shrinkage rate is 10% or less.
6). By weaving the composite yarn used for the warp and / or weft at 60 ° C or higher before weaving, setting the constant load elongation (measurement method separately stipulated) to 5% or less, and relaxing heat treatment under low tension after weaving. A method for producing stretch denim, characterized by exhibiting stretch properties.
7). A jeans slack comprising the stretch denim according to the first aspect as at least a part thereof.
8). A jeans skirt comprising the stretch denim according to the first aspect as at least a part thereof.
9. A jeans jumper comprising the stretch denim according to the first aspect as at least a part thereof.
本発明のポリオレフィン系弾性糸を用いたストレッチデニムは製織性に優れ、耐薬品性に優れることから、塩素晒に耐えうる伸張性および同回復性にも優れたデ二ムであり、それより得られるジーンズ製品は使込んだソフトな風合いと外観およびストレッチ性によりもたらされる履き心地、着心地の良いジーンズである。 The stretch denim using the polyolefin-based elastic yarn of the present invention is superior in weaving properties and chemical resistance, and is therefore a demime with excellent stretchability and recovery properties that can withstand chlorine exposure. Jeans products that are used are comfortable and comfortable jeans brought about by the soft texture, appearance and stretchability.
以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明はセルローズ系短繊維を主体とし、経糸及び／又は緯糸の１部としてポリオレフィン系の弾性糸を含むストレッチ性のあるデニムである。経糸はセルローズ系紡績糸または該繊維との複合紡績糸を用いる。これはデニムとして要求される風合い、触感、洗濯耐久性、インジゴ染料との相性から限定されるもので、綿、レーヨン、精製セルローズ等が適しており、中でも耐久性の面から綿繊維が適している。デニムに適した布厚さ、強度を得るためには経糸は２０英式面番手より太い糸が必要であり、２０番手以上の細い糸ではデニム特有の風合い、強度、布厚が不足する。好ましくは８番手から１６番手である。セルローズ系紡績糸に限定される理由は外観、手触り、透湿性等からくる。経方向のストレッチが必要な場合は弾性糸との複合紡績糸を用いる事もできる。この時、弾性糸として要求される性能は３０％以上の伸長率と０．１５ｇ／ｄｔｅｘ以上の伸長応力（布帛中の伸長率×１．２倍の伸長時）および９０％以上の伸長回複性（２０％伸長時）および塩素晒工程に耐えうる耐塩素性等があり、伸長特性ではウレタン系弾性糸が満足できるが、耐塩素性が劣り、強度保持率や弾性保持率に問題がある。この要求性能に合致する性能をもつ弾性糸としてポリオレフィン系弾性糸があり、後述する工程通過性や耐光性、形状記憶性にもポリウレタン系弾性糸よりも優れた特性がある。中でも仕上げセット工程や乾燥工程での安定性を考慮すると、耐熱性に優れる架橋型ポリオレフィン系弾性糸が適している。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The present invention is a denim having stretch properties mainly composed of cellulose-based short fibers and including a polyolefin-based elastic yarn as a part of warp and / or weft. As the warp, a cellulose spun yarn or a composite spun yarn with the fiber is used. This is limited by the texture required for denim, touch feeling, washing durability, and compatibility with indigo dyes. Cotton, rayon, refined cellulose, etc. are suitable, and cotton fiber is particularly suitable for durability. Yes. In order to obtain a fabric thickness and strength suitable for denim, warp yarns need to be thicker than 20 English face counts, and thin yarns of 20th and higher counts lack the texture, strength, and fabric thickness peculiar to denim. Preferably, it is 8th to 16th. The reason for being limited to cellulose spun yarn comes from the appearance, touch, moisture permeability and the like. When warp direction stretching is required, composite spun yarn with elastic yarn can be used. At this time, the performance required as an elastic yarn is an elongation rate of 30% or more, an elongation stress of 0.15 g / dtex or more (elongation rate in fabric x 1.2 times elongation), and an elongation of 90% or more. It has chlorine resistance that can withstand the chlorine exposure process (when stretched by 20%), and the urethane-based elastic yarn is satisfactory in elongation characteristics, but has poor chlorine resistance and has problems in strength retention and elastic retention. There is a polyolefin-based elastic yarn as an elastic yarn having a performance that matches this required performance, and it has characteristics superior to those of a polyurethane-based elastic yarn in process passability, light resistance, and shape memory, which will be described later. Among these, in consideration of stability in the finish setting process and the drying process, a cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn having excellent heat resistance is suitable.
本発明でいう架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維は均一に分枝を有しており、実質的に線状であるオレフィンに架橋処理を施されてなる繊維である。ここで均一に分枝していて実質的に線状であるオレフィン繊維とは、オレフィン系モノマーを重合させた重合物であり、その重合物の分岐度合いが均一であるものを言う。例えばαオレフィンを共重合させた低密度ポリエチレンや特表平８−５０９５３０号公報記載の弾性繊維がこれに当たる。また架橋処理の方法としては、例えばラジカル開始剤やカップリング剤などを用いた化学架橋や、エネルギー線を照射することによって架橋させる方法等が挙げられる。製品となった後の安定性を考慮するとエネルギー線照射による架橋が好ましいが、本発明はこれらの方法に限定されるものではない。 The cross-linked polyolefin fiber referred to in the present invention is a fiber that is uniformly branched and is obtained by subjecting a substantially linear olefin to a cross-linking treatment. Here, the olefin fiber that is uniformly branched and substantially linear is a polymer obtained by polymerizing an olefin monomer, and the degree of branching of the polymer is uniform. For example, low-density polyethylene copolymerized with α-olefin and elastic fiber described in JP-A-8-509530 are examples. Examples of the crosslinking method include chemical crosslinking using a radical initiator, a coupling agent, and the like, and a method of crosslinking by irradiating energy rays. In consideration of stability after becoming a product, crosslinking by irradiation with energy rays is preferable, but the present invention is not limited to these methods.
特に経糸に弾性複合紡績糸を用いる場合はロープ状で染色、糊付けした後、ビーミング時に分糸する必要があるが、染色後や糊付け後の乾燥時に緊張していれば、ポリオレフィン系弾性糸は仮セットされるため、弾性が一次的に消滅し、セルローズ１００％の紡績糸と同等のリジット性を示し、非常に取り扱いがしやすく、製織工程のテンション変動の影響も受けず工程管理が容易である。芯糸の繊度はデニムのストレッチ性を左右し１００デシテックス以上が好ましい。より好ましくは１４０から３００デシテックスである。弾性糸は複合紡績する時に、３から５倍にドラフトして複合される。 In particular, when elastic composite spun yarn is used for warp, it is necessary to divide and glue it in a rope shape and then split it at the time of beaming. Because it is set, the elasticity disappears temporarily, it shows the same rigid properties as 100% cellulose spun yarn, it is very easy to handle, and it is not affected by tension fluctuations in the weaving process, and process management is easy. . The fineness of the core yarn affects the stretchability of the denim and is preferably 100 dtex or more. More preferably, it is 140 to 300 dtex. The elastic yarn is combined by drafting 3 to 5 times during composite spinning.
経糸は紡績上がりで、撚り止めの目的で精紡木管に巻かれたまま、６０℃以上でキヤーセット（湿熱セット）される。より好ましくは６５℃から９５℃である。この時、弾性複合糸の場合、ポリオレフィン弾性糸はポリウレタン系弾性糸と異なり仮セット性があるため、弾性が消失し、リジッドになる。この糸を所要本数の糸を束ねてロープ状としてロープ染色機で染色し、糊付け乾燥後に分糸して経糸とする。
また、糸状でチーズ染めして用いることもでき、この場合もロープ染めと同様に湿熱セットされリジット化し、取り扱いしやすくなる。このため経糸は弾性複合紡績糸でも通常の紡績糸でも、取り扱い性は変わらない。この時のキヤーセット上がり、またはチーズ染め上がりの紡績糸の定荷重伸長率は５％以下とすれば伸長性が仮セットしたとみなす事ができる。より好ましくは２％以下である。
The warp yarn has been spun and is wound (heated and heat set) at 60 ° C. or higher while being wound around a fine-spun wood tube for the purpose of twisting. More preferably, it is from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. At this time, in the case of an elastic composite yarn, the polyolefin elastic yarn has a temporary setting property unlike the polyurethane-based elastic yarn, so that the elasticity disappears and becomes rigid. This yarn is bundled with a required number of yarns to form a rope and dyed with a rope dyeing machine. After glueing and drying, the yarn is divided into warps.
Moreover, it can also be used by dyeing cheese in a thread form, and in this case as well, it is set with moisture and heat in the same way as rope dyeing, making it easy to handle. For this reason, whether the warp is an elastic composite spun yarn or a normal spun yarn, the handleability does not change. At this time, if the constant load elongation rate of the spun yarn after cheese set or cheese dyeing is 5% or less, it can be considered that the extensibility is temporarily set. More preferably, it is 2% or less.
緯糸にはポリオレフィン系弾性糸を芯糸とする複合弾性糸を用いる。緯糸は経糸より若干細い糸を用い１０番手から３０番手のものが好ましい。フィラメント複合糸の場合は２００デシテックスから５３０デシテックスとなる。複合糸の芯糸の弾性糸は経糸の時と同様ポリオレフィン系弾性糸が適している。芯に用いる弾性糸の繊度はストレッチデニムの伸長応力を左右し、ジーンズとするには経験上１００デシテックス以上の太い糸が必要であり、細くなると、伸度、回復性能とも悪くなる。好ましくは１４０デシテックスから３００デシテックスである。緯糸に用いる複合糸は複合紡績糸でもフィラメント複合糸でも良い。複合形態は芯糸の被覆性を上げる意味で、芯―鞘型複合糸が好ましく、このことから芯鞘型複合紡績糸やカバリング加工糸が好ましい。この時、芯の弾性糸は３から５倍にドラフトした状態で複合する。カバリング加工糸とする場合は、巻き付け糸としてはポリエステル系フィラメント糸の1段仮撚り加工糸がソフト風合いやストレッチ性の観点より好ましい。この時の仮撚り加工糸の巻回数は６００から１２００Ｔ／ｍが好ましい。
複合紡績糸の場合は撚り係数で３．２から４．５が好ましい。緯糸の複合糸も紡績上がりまたは加工上がりでキヤーセットして、一次的に弾性を消失させる。キヤーセット条件およびセット後の伸長率は経糸の場合と同等である。また緯糸もチーズ染め糸を用いる事も可能である。
As the weft, a composite elastic yarn having a polyolefin-based elastic yarn as a core yarn is used. The weft is preferably slightly thinner than the warp, and is preferably 10th to 30th. In the case of a filament composite yarn, it is 200 dtex to 530 dtex. As the elastic yarn of the core yarn of the composite yarn, a polyolefin elastic yarn is suitable as in the case of warp. The fineness of the elastic yarn used for the core affects the elongation stress of stretch denim. To make jeans, a thick yarn of 100 decitex or more is required from experience, and when it becomes thinner, both elongation and recovery performance deteriorate. It is preferably 140 dtex to 300 dtex. The composite yarn used for the weft may be a composite spun yarn or a filament composite yarn. The composite form is preferably a core-sheath type composite yarn in order to increase the covering property of the core yarn, and from this viewpoint, a core-sheath type composite spun yarn or covering yarn is preferable. At this time, the elastic yarn of the core is compounded in a drafted state 3 to 5 times. In the case of covering yarn, a one-stage false twisted yarn of polyester filament yarn is preferable as a winding yarn from the viewpoint of soft texture and stretchability. The number of turns of the false twisted yarn at this time is preferably 600 to 1200 T / m.
In the case of a composite spun yarn, the twist coefficient is preferably 3.2 to 4.5. The composite yarn of the weft is also set by spinning or finishing, and temporarily loses elasticity. The carrier setting conditions and the elongation after setting are the same as in the case of warp. It is also possible to use cheese dyed yarn as the weft.
かくして得られた経糸と緯糸を用い、デニムに製織される。織り組織は斜文組織に限定される。特に２／１斜文組織が好ましい。この時、経糸および緯糸中に含まれるポリオレフィン系弾性糸の割合は３から１５％、より好ましくは４から１０％である。弾性糸の割合が多すぎるとストレッチが強すぎ、履き心地、着心地が悪くなる。逆に複合割合が低すぎると伸長後の回複性が低下し、着用中に膝抜け状のたるみが生ずる。製織後に糊抜き、整理加工を行う。この時、弾性糸が配された方向の布張力は極力低く、特に最終乾燥工程での布張力には注意を要する。仕上りのデニム布帛の少なくとも緯方向の定荷重伸長率は２０％以上、好ましくは２５％以上３５％未満である。伸長率が大きすぎると形態保持性が悪くなり、型くずれが生じやすく、好ましくない。同洗濯収縮率は１０％以下、好ましくは６％未満である。経方向にも弾性複合紡績糸を用いた場合、経方向の定荷重伸長率は１５％以上、好ましくは２０％以上３０％未満である。同洗濯収縮率は１０％以下、好ましくは６％未満である。 The warp and weft thus obtained are used to weave into denim. The weaving structure is limited to the oblique structure. A 2/1 oblique structure is particularly preferable. At this time, the ratio of the polyolefin-based elastic yarn contained in the warp and the weft is 3 to 15%, more preferably 4 to 10%. If the proportion of elastic yarn is too large, the stretch will be too strong and the comfort and comfort will be poor. On the other hand, when the composite ratio is too low, the duplexability after elongation is lowered, and a knee-out sagging occurs during wearing. After weaving, desizing and organizing are performed. At this time, the fabric tension in the direction in which the elastic yarn is arranged is as low as possible, and care must be taken particularly in the fabric tension in the final drying step. The finished denim fabric has a constant load elongation at least in the weft direction of 20% or more, preferably 25% or more and less than 35%. If the elongation rate is too large, the shape retention is deteriorated and the mold tends to be deformed, which is not preferable. The washing shrinkage rate is 10% or less, preferably less than 6%. When elastic composite spun yarn is used in the warp direction, the constant load elongation in the warp direction is 15% or more, preferably 20% or more and less than 30%. The washing shrinkage rate is 10% or less, preferably less than 6%.
加工されたデニム布帛は裁断、縫製して、ジーンズスラックス、スカート、ジャンパー等に仕上げられる。この時、布の経方向と縫製品の経方向は同一方向とする。 The processed denim fabric is cut and sewed to finish jeans slacks, skirts, jumpers and the like. At this time, the warp direction of the fabric and the warp direction of the sewing product are the same.
［複合糸の伸長率の測定方法］
複合糸を湿熱セットした後、常温下で３時間以上放置した後、ラップリールを用いて、８巻きの綛を作成し、対向する位置でふびろ糸で２個所結束する。ラップリールから静かにはずし、芯糸のポリオレフィン弾性糸の繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）当り９ｍｇの荷重［（ｄｔｅｘ×９×１６）ｍｇ］を掛け、１分後の糸長（Ｌ１ｃｍ）を測定する。荷重を除き、第２の荷重として複合糸の繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）当り０．１ｇの荷重［（ｄｔｅｘ×０．１×１６）ｇ］を掛け、１分後の糸長（Ｌ２ｃｍ）を測定する。伸長率（ＳＴ％）は次式より算出する。
ＳＴ％＝［（Ｌ２−Ｌ１）／Ｌ１］×１００
[Measurement method of elongation rate of composite yarn]
After setting the composite yarn to wet heat, leave it at room temperature for 3 hours or more, and then use a wrap reel to make an 8-wind kite and bind two pieces with fluffy yarns at opposite positions. Remove gently from the wrap reel, apply a load [(dtex × 9 × 16) mg] per fineness (dtex) of the polyolefin elastic yarn of the core yarn, and measure the yarn length (L1 cm) after 1 minute. A load of 0.1 g per fineness (dtex) of the composite yarn [(dtex × 0.1 × 16) g] is applied as a second load, excluding the load, and the yarn length (L2 cm) after 1 minute is measured. The elongation rate (ST%) is calculated from the following equation.
ST% = [(L2-L1) / L1] × 100
［布帛の定荷重伸長率および同回復率の測定方法］
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６の８．１４．１「伸長回復率」Ｂ法（定荷重法）および８．１４．２「伸長回復率及び残留ひずみ率」Ｂ−１法（定荷重法）に準ずる。
［伸長率（緯方向）］
寸法変化の安定した状態に調整した試料から、経方向に６ｃｍ緯方向に３０ｃｍの試験片３枚を採取し幅方向の両端より等本数の糸を抜き取り５ｃｍ幅の試験片とする。この試験片を、引張試験機を用い、試験片の一端を上部クランプで固定し、目付（ｇ／ｍ2）の５％の荷重を初荷重としてかけ、２０ｃｍ間隔に印を付け、無荷重の状態から静かに１４．７Ｎの荷重を加える。１分間放置後の印間の長さ（ｃｍ）を測り、次式によって伸長率（％）め、３回の平均値を算出し、小数点以下１桁に丸める。
ＥP＝｛（Ｌ1 − Ｌ 0）／Ｌ 0｝×１００
ここに、ＥP；伸長率（％）、 Ｌ 0；もとの印間の長さ（２０ｃｍ）, Ｌ1；１４．７Ｎの荷重を加え１分間放置後の印間の長さ（ｃｍ）
［伸長回復率（緯方向）］
試験片の調整および初荷重、印付けは伸長率の測定と同法で実施する。次いで、静かに１４．７Ｎの荷重を加え、１時間放置後の印間の長さ（ｃｍ）を測る。次いで荷重を取り除き、３０秒後に再度、初荷重を加えて再び印間の長さ（ｃｍ）を測り、次式より伸長回復率（％）を求め、３回の平均値算出し、小数点以下１桁に丸める。
Ｅr＝｛（Ｌ1 − Ｌ 1※）／（Ｌ 1− Ｌ 0）｝×１００
ここに、Ｅr；伸長回復率（％）、 Ｌ 0；もとの印間の長さ（２０ｃｍ）, Ｌ1；１４．７Ｎの荷重を加え１時間放置後の印間の長さ（ｃｍ） Ｌ 1※；荷重を取り除いた後３０秒後に初荷重を加えた時の印間の長さ（ｃｍ）
[Method of measuring constant load elongation and recovery rate of fabric]
Conforms to JIS L 1096 8.14.1 “Elongation recovery rate” B method (constant load method) and 8.14.2 “Elongation recovery rate and residual strain rate” B-1 method (constant load method).
[Elongation rate (Latitude direction)]
Three test pieces of 6 cm in the warp direction and 30 cm in the weft direction are sampled from the sample adjusted to a stable dimensional change, and an equal number of yarns are extracted from both ends in the width direction to obtain a test piece of 5 cm width. Using a tensile tester, one end of the test piece was fixed with an upper clamp, a 5% weight per unit area (g / m 2 ) was applied as an initial load, and the test piece was marked at an interval of 20 cm. Gently apply a load of 14.7N from the condition. Measure the length (cm) between the marks after standing for 1 minute, calculate the elongation rate (%) by the following formula, calculate the average value of 3 times, and round to one decimal place.
E P = {(L 1 − L 0 ) / L 0 } × 100
E P ; Elongation rate (%), L 0 : Length between original marks (20 cm), L 1 ; Length between marks after being left for 1 minute with a load of 14.7 N (cm)
[Elongation recovery rate (Latitude direction)]
Test specimen adjustment, initial load, and marking are performed in the same manner as the measurement of elongation rate. Next, gently apply a load of 14.7 N and measure the length (cm) between the marks after standing for 1 hour. Next, the load was removed, and after 30 seconds, the initial load was applied again, the length (cm) between the marks was measured again, the elongation recovery rate (%) was calculated from the following formula, the average value was calculated three times, and the decimal point was 1 Round to a digit.
E r = {(L 1 − L 1 *) / (L 1 − L 0 )} × 100
Here, E r ; Elongation recovery rate (%), L 0 ; Length between original marks (20 cm), L 1 ; Length between marks after being left for 1 hour with a load of 14.7 N (cm ) L 1 *; Length between marks (cm) when initial load is applied 30 seconds after load is removed
［布帛の洗濯収縮率の測定方法］
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６の９．２．１「Ｉ−１法（低温タンブル乾燥法）に準じて測定した。充分、寸法安定化した試料より経緯５０ｃｍ×５０ｃｍの試験布を採取し、経緯とも４５ｃｍ間隔の印を各３個所入れる。同寸法のダミーとともに１．３６ｋｇになるようにして洗濯装置に入れ、布が充分に覆われる量の４０℃の水を入れ、同時にＪＩＳ Ｋ ３３０３に規定の無添加剤のものを約０．１％溶液になるように加え、１５分間運転する。続いて新しい４０℃の水に替えて５分間運転し、再び新しい４０℃の水に替えて１０分間運転する。排水後、試験布を取り出し、水分が約５５％になるように遠心脱水する。（６．２．１Ｆ−１法（低温ワシャー法））次に、試験布とダミーのもつれをほぐし、タンブル乾燥機に投入し、６０℃を越えない温度で充分乾燥した後、加熱を止め、更に約５分間回転して冷却する。乾燥機が止まればただちに試験布を取り出し、室温下で拡布して１時間放置後、経緯各３個所の印間隔（ｃｍ）を測定し,経緯各々平均値を算出し、小数点以下１桁に丸める。
[Measurement Method of Washing Shrinkage of Fabric]
Measured in accordance with JIS L 1096 9.2.1 “I-1 method (low temperature tumble drying method). A test cloth measuring 50 cm × 50 cm was taken from a sufficiently dimension-stabilized sample. Place 3 marks each in the washing machine with 1.35 kg with the dummy of the same size, and put water of 40 ° C in an amount sufficient to cover the cloth, and at the same time, additive-free specified in JIS K 3303 The solution is run for 15 minutes, then replaced with fresh 40 ° C. water for 5 minutes, and then replaced with fresh 40 ° C. water for 10 minutes. After that, the test cloth is taken out and centrifuged and dehydrated so that the water content becomes about 55% (6.2.1 F-1 method (low temperature washer method)). And not exceed 60 ℃ After drying sufficiently, heat is turned off, and then rotated for about 5 minutes to cool down.When the dryer stops, immediately take out the test cloth, spread it at room temperature, leave it for 1 hour, Measure (cm), calculate the average of each process, and round to one decimal place.
以下、実施例で詳述するが、発明の実施形態を限定するものではない。
（実施例１）
平均繊維長が２６ｍｍの綿繊維よりなる粗糸をフロントローラーとバックローラー間で４８倍にドラフトし、同時に架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維１５４デシテックスのモノフィラメントを４．０倍にドラフトしてフロントローラーに供給し、撚係数を４．２として７０ｇの張力下で精紡コップに巻取り、１２綿番手の芯鞘型複合紡績糸を得た。架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維の混用率は７．９％であった。該紡績糸を７０℃で１５分間キヤーセットした。該糸の伸長率及び収縮率を表１に示した。該紡績糸を５４０本まとめてロープ状として、１２本づつを平行して走行させ、公知のロープ染色機でインジゴ染浴濃度３ｇ／リットルの染色槽に３０秒間浸漬し、約１００％に絞り、酸化のためのエアリングを２分を１サイクルとして８サイクルをそれぞれ実施して染色した後、洗浄、オイリング、乾燥、糊付け乾燥してインジゴロープ染めしたロープ状物を得た。これを分繊して経糸とした。緯糸には経糸と同法で複合紡績した複合紡績糸１６番手の糸を用いた。該糸の架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維の混用率は１０．５％であった。該紡績糸を７０℃で１５分間キヤーセットした。該糸の伸長率及び収縮率を表１に示した。経糸密度を４７本／ｉｎ．緯糸密度を３６本／ｉｎ．として、２／１の左綾で製織し、さらに整理加工を実施した。尚、工程では、極力経方向に引張って緯入れし、最終仕上げ前にサンフォライズ加工で経入れする方策を取った。該生地を用いてジーンズパンツを縫製し、この製品を次亜塩素酸ソーダーでワッシャーを用いてインジゴ染料の１部を酸化脱色した。得られた製品はソフト風合いで２ウエーのストレッチ性がある履き心地が良く、着古した外観を呈する若者に好まれるジーンズであった。また同工程で処理した布帛サンプルで伸長特性と洗濯収縮性能を表１に示した。このジーンズパンツを１週間着用すると膝部分の一部が膝抜けし凸状に微量ふくれあがったが、１４０℃のアイロンを掛けたところ、膨れた部分が収縮して、元のサイズにもどった。洗濯して８０℃のタンブル乾燥でも同様の効果があった。
Hereinafter, although it explains in full detail in an Example, embodiment of invention is not limited.
Example 1
A rough yarn made of cotton fibers having an average fiber length of 26 mm is drafted 48 times between the front roller and the back roller, and at the same time, a monofilament of cross-linked polyolefin fiber 154 dtex is drafted 4.0 times and supplied to the front roller. The core was wound into a fine spinning cup under a tension of 70 g with a twist coefficient of 4.2 to obtain a core-sheath type composite spun yarn of 12 cotton counts. The mixture ratio of the crosslinked polyolefin fiber was 7.9%. The spun yarn was set for 15 minutes at 70 ° C. Table 1 shows the elongation and shrinkage of the yarn. 540 spun yarns are gathered into a rope shape, and 12 pieces are run in parallel, immersed in a dyeing tank having an indigo dyeing bath concentration of 3 g / liter for 30 seconds with a known rope dyeing machine, and squeezed to about 100%. The air ring for oxidation was dyed by performing 8 cycles of 2 minutes as one cycle, and then washed, oiled, dried, glued and dried to obtain an indigo rope dyed rope. This was divided into warps. As the weft, a 16th composite spun yarn obtained by composite spinning in the same manner as the warp was used. The mixture ratio of the crosslinked polyolefin fiber in the yarn was 10.5%. The spun yarn was set for 15 minutes at 70 ° C. Table 1 shows the elongation and shrinkage of the yarn. The warp density is 47 / in. Weft density is 36 / in. As a result, weaving was performed with 2/1 left twill and further processing was carried out. In the process, a measure was taken in which weft was inserted in the warp direction as much as possible, and was inserted by sanforization before final finishing. Jeans pants were sewed using the fabric, and 1 part of the indigo dye was oxidatively decolorized from this product using a washer with hypochlorous acid soda. The resulting product was a jeans that was favored by young people who had a soft texture, a two-way stretchability, a comfortable fit and an old appearance. Table 1 shows the stretch properties and washing shrinkage performance of the fabric samples treated in the same process. When the jeans pants were worn for a week, a part of the knee part slipped out of the knee, and a slight amount of swelling occurred, but when the iron at 140 ° C. was applied, the swollen part contracted and returned to its original size. The same effect was obtained by washing and tumble drying at 80 ° C.
（実施例２）
経糸を綿糸斑糸８番手単糸とし、経糸密度を５６本とする以外は実施例１と同法でデニム生地を得、縫製してデニムジャンパーを作成した。実施例１と同法で次亜塩素酸ソーダでブリーチして最終製品を得た。その製品はソフト風合いで１ウエーストレッチがあり、着古し外観のある若者に好まれる製品が得られた。実施例１と同法で評価した糸の伸長特性、デニム生地の伸長特性、洗濯収縮性能を表１に示した。
(Example 2)
A denim fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp was a cotton yarn spot 8 single yarn and the warp density was 56. A denim jumper was prepared by sewing. The final product was obtained by bleaching with sodium hypochlorite in the same manner as in Example 1. The product has a soft texture and a one-way stretch, resulting in a product that is preferred by young people who are worn and have an appearance. Table 1 shows the elongation characteristics of the yarn, the elongation characteristics of the denim fabric, and the washing shrinkage performance evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1.
（比較例１）
緯糸を綿糸１６番手単糸とする以外は実施例２と同法でジーンズジャンパーを得た。風合い、外観効果は実施例２と差異がないものの、ストレッチ性がなく、身動きがし難いジャンパーであった。実施例１と同法で評価した糸の伸長特性、デニム生地の伸長特性、洗濯収縮性能を表１に示した。
(Comparative Example 1)
A jeans jumper was obtained by the same method as in Example 2 except that the weft was a 16th cotton single yarn. Although there was no difference in texture and appearance effect from Example 2, it was a jumper that was not stretchable and difficult to move. Table 1 shows the elongation characteristics of the yarn, the elongation characteristics of the denim fabric, and the washing shrinkage performance evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1.
（比較例２）
経糸及び緯糸の芯糸を架橋型ポリオレフィン系弾性糸に替え、ポリウレタン系弾性糸（東洋紡績ＫＫ製エスパＴ４６５）とすること以外は実施例１と同法でジーンズパンツを得た。
経糸はキヤーセットをしたにもかかわらず、弾性が残り、分繊時の取り扱いは極めて難しかった。また製織時の張力変動のためか、仕上り布の幅が３％変動していた。
ソフトな風合いと着古し外観は実施例１と差異はないものの、弾性糸の劣化から身長回復性能が著しく低下していた。実施例１と同法で評価した糸の伸長特性、デニム生地の伸長特性、洗濯収縮性能を表１に示した。
(Comparative Example 2)
Jeans pants were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the core yarn of the warp and weft was replaced with a cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn to obtain a polyurethane elastic yarn (Espa T465 manufactured by Toyobo KK).
Even though the warp was set, the elasticity remained and it was very difficult to handle at the time of splitting. In addition, the width of the finished fabric was changed by 3% because of the fluctuation of tension during weaving.
Although it has a soft texture and wear, and the appearance is not different from that in Example 1, the height recovery performance was significantly reduced due to the deterioration of the elastic yarn. Table 1 shows the elongation characteristics of the yarn, the elongation characteristics of the denim fabric, and the washing shrinkage performance evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1.
本発明のストレッチデニムは製織性に優れ、耐薬品性に優れることから、塩素晒に耐えうる伸張性および同回復性にも優れたデ二ムであり、それより得られるジーンズ製品は使込んだソフトな風合いと外観およびストレッチ性によりもたらされる履き心地、着心地の良いジーンズである。 The stretch denim of the present invention is superior in weaving and chemical resistance, so it is a demime that is excellent in stretchability and recovery that can withstand chlorine exposure, and the jeans products obtained from it are used. The jeans are comfortable and comfortable to wear due to their soft texture, appearance and stretchability.
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| CN103498257A (en) * | 2013-09-30 | 2014-01-08 | 常熟市立丹纺织品有限公司 | Dustproof jean cloth |
| CN104055252A (en) * | 2013-03-19 | 2014-09-24 | 浙江鑫兰纺织有限公司 | Functional denim warm in winter and cool in summer |
| CN104088051A (en) * | 2014-07-17 | 2014-10-08 | 苏州华良化纤纺织有限公司 | Anti-static stretch covering yarn |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP4241744B2 (en) * | 2006-02-03 | 2009-03-18 | 東レ株式会社 | Pants |
| JP4356643B2 (en) * | 2005-04-21 | 2009-11-04 | 東レ株式会社 | Pants |
| JP2007162157A (en) * | 2005-12-13 | 2007-06-28 | Nisshin Denim Kk | Method for resin finishing of yarn for denim and denim fabric |
| WO2011044728A1 (en) * | 2009-10-14 | 2011-04-21 | Dow Global Technologies Inc. | Method to prevent curling in stretch fabrics with intentionally distressed areas and fabrics made thereby |
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| US12037720B2 (en) | 2019-03-01 | 2024-07-16 | Kaihara Co., Ltd. | Stretchable fabric, and manufacturing method and manufacturing device for same |
| JP7257223B2 (en) * | 2019-04-01 | 2023-04-13 | 旭化成株式会社 | Elastic fabric and garment containing said fabric |
| CN110184711B (en) * | 2019-05-14 | 2021-06-15 | 河北新大东纺织有限公司 | Four-side elastic imitation knitted jean fabric |
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2003
- 2003-10-17 JP JP2003357467A patent/JP4269225B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104055252A (en) * | 2013-03-19 | 2014-09-24 | 浙江鑫兰纺织有限公司 | Functional denim warm in winter and cool in summer |
| CN103498257A (en) * | 2013-09-30 | 2014-01-08 | 常熟市立丹纺织品有限公司 | Dustproof jean cloth |
| CN104088051A (en) * | 2014-07-17 | 2014-10-08 | 苏州华良化纤纺织有限公司 | Anti-static stretch covering yarn |
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| JP2005120525A (en) | 2005-05-12 |
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