JP7081961B2 - Textiles and clothing - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a woven fabric and a garment having a flat woven surface, excellent stretchability, and no dye transfer sublimation.

Traditionally, woven fabrics have been used for various clothing purposes, as typified by sports clothing and fashion clothing. Since the woven fabric itself has little elasticity due to its structure, it is difficult to impart stretchability to the fabric, and stretchability has been imparted by using processed yarns having crimps, polyurethane elastic fibers, or the like (for example). , Patent Document 1). And, garments made of such stretchable woven fabrics have become widely used in recent years because of their comfort.

Most of these stretchable woven fabrics are obtained by using processed yarns having crimps, polyurethane elastic fibers, and the like. However, the woven fabric obtained by using these crimped processed yarns, polyurethane elastic fibers, etc., although exhibiting stretchability, has uneven wrinkles on the surface of the woven fabric and has a poor appearance.

Further, a woven fabric made of polyethylene terephthalate fiber has been proposed by Patent Document 2 and the like. However, due to the transfer and sublimation of dyes to coating resins and film resins, the development of moisture-permeable and waterproof applications has been restricted. Further, there is a problem that the wear resistance and the tear strength are not sufficient and the use is limited.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 4-194050 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2009-138287

The present invention has been made in view of the above background, and an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric and a garment having a flat woven surface, excellent stretchability, and no dye transfer sublimation.

As a result of diligent studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have made a woven fabric having a flat surface, excellent stretchability, and no dye transfer sublimation by skillfully devising the threads constituting the woven fabric. We have found that it can be obtained, and have completed the present invention through further diligent studies.

Thus, according to the present invention, it is a woven fabric containing a composite yarn containing a false twist crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and a false twist crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction. Both the crimped yarn A and the false twist crimped yarn B are made of a polyamide fiber made of nylon 6 or nylon 66 or nylon 46 , and the number of filaments in the composite yarn is in the range of 20 to 300. Textiles to be provided. "

At that time, it is preferable that the composite yarn has a torque of 30 T / m or less. Further, in the composite yarn, it is preferable that the entanglement is applied within the range of 30 to 90 entanglements / m. Further, in the composite yarn, the crimp ratio is preferably 5% or more. Further, in the composite yarn, it is preferable that the single fiber fineness is 4 dtex or less. Further, it is preferable that the constituent yarns of the woven fabric are only the composite yarns. Further, it is preferable that the cover factor CF of the woven fabric is in the range of 1400 to 4200. However, the cover factor CF is defined by the following formula.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weft density (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weft density (book / 2.54 cm). ]
Further, it is preferable that the structure of the woven fabric is selected from the group consisting of a plain weave structure, a twill weave structure, a satin weave structure, a double weave structure, and a change structure thereof. Further, it is preferable that the woven fabric is coated with a resin or laminated with a film. At that time, it is preferable that there is no transfer sublimation of the dye to the coated resin or film. Further, it is preferable that the stretchability in the weft direction of the woven fabric is 5% or more. However, the stretchability shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 B method. Further, it is preferable that the stretchability recovery rate in the weft direction of the woven fabric is 75% or more. However, the recovery rate of stretchability shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 B-1 method. Further, it is preferable that the wear resistance is grade 3 or higher.
However, wear resistance shall be measured by the JIS L 1058 D-4 method. Further, it is preferable that the tear strength is 7 N or more. However, the tear strength shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 D method. Further, it is preferable that the water repellency is 3rd grade or higher. However, the water repellency shall be measured by the JIS L 1092 spray method.
Further, according to the present invention, clothing made of the above-mentioned woven fabric is provided.

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric and a garment having a flat woven surface, excellent stretchability, and no dye transfer sublimation.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail. The false twist crimped yarn has a so-called one heater false twist crimped yarn in which false twist is set in the first heater region, and the yarn is further introduced into the second heater region to perform relaxation heat treatment to reduce torque. There is also a so-called second heater false twist crimped yarn.

The woven fabric of the present invention includes a false twist crimped yarn A made of a polyamide fiber having a torque in the S direction and a false twist crimped yarn B made of a polyamide fiber having a torque in the Z direction.

Here, as a condition for the false twist crimping process, the yarn is twisted by a twisting device via a first roller and a heat treatment heater having a set temperature of 90 to 220 ° C (more preferably 100 to 190 ° C). , If necessary, a method of further introducing into the second heater region and performing a relaxation heat treatment is exemplified. The draw ratio during false twist processing is preferably in the range of 0.8 to 1.6, and the false twist number is α = 0 in the formula of false twist number (T / m) = (32500 / √Dtex) × α. It is preferably 5 to 1.5, and usually 0.8 to 1.2. As the twisting device to be used, a disk-type or belt-type friction-type twisting device is suitable because it is easy to thread and has less thread breakage, but a pin-type twisting device may also be used.

The polyamide fiber may be nylon 6, nylon 66, or nylon 46, and the third component may be copolymerized or added. Further, a composite fiber (conjugated fiber) containing a polyamide component as one component may be used. Furthermore, additives such as a matting agent, a flame retardant, and a light resistant agent may be added.

Further, it is preferable that the composite yarn is entangled. At that time, the number of entanglements (interlaces) is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 30 to 90 pieces / m so as not to impair the stretchability. If the number is larger than 90 / m, the stretchability may be impaired. On the contrary, if the number is smaller than 30 pieces / m, the focusing property of the composite yarn becomes insufficient, and the weaving property may be impaired. The entanglement processing (interlacing processing) may be performed using a normal interlacing nozzle.

In the composite yarn, the smaller the torque, the more preferable, and the non-torque (0T / m) is most preferable. In order to obtain non-torque in this way, when the false twist crimped yarn having the torque in the S direction and the false twisted crimped yarn in the Z direction are combined, they have the same torque except that the torque directions are different. It is advisable to use two types of false twist crimped yarn.

Further, in the false twist crimped yarn A and the false twist crimped yarn B, the single fiber fineness, the single fiber cross-sectional shape, and the like may be different from each other.

Further, in the composite yarn, the crimp ratio is preferably 5% or more (more preferably 30% or more, particularly preferably 35 to 60%). If the crimp ratio is less than 5%, sufficient stretchability may not be obtained.

In the composite yarn, the single fiber fineness is preferably 4 dtex or less (preferably 0.1 to 1.0 dtex). If the single fiber fineness is larger than 4dtex, a soft texture may not be obtained. Further, the total fineness of the composite yarn is preferably in the range of 33 to 220 dtex. Further, the number of filaments of the composite yarn is preferably in the range of 10 to 300 (more preferably 20 to 300).

The composite yarn of the present invention is included. It may be contained in either the warp or weft of the woven fabric, but it is preferable that the constituent yarns of the woven fabric are only the composite yarn.

The cover factor CF of the woven fabric is preferably in the range of 1200 to 4500 (more preferably 1400 to 4200). If the cover factor of the woven fabric is smaller than the applied range, thread misalignment may occur, and if it is larger than the applied range, sufficient stretchability may not be obtained.
However, the cover factor CF is defined by the following formula.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weft density (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weft density (book / 2.54 cm). ]
The woven fabric of the present invention can be easily woven using the above-mentioned composite yarn using a normal loom. At that time, the structure of the woven fabric is not limited, and plain weave, twill weave, satin weave and the like are preferably exemplified. Further, a double weave may be used. A woven fabric having no pile portion is preferable. In a woven fabric having a pile portion on one side or both sides of the ground structure portion, the surface of the ground structure portion may not appear on the outside air side during use.

Further, the composite yarn may be twisted with a twist coefficient of about 3000 or less represented by the following formula.
(Twist coefficient) = number of twists [T / M] x √ (fineness [De])
However, the fineness [De] is a value obtained by multiplying the fineness [Dtex] by 0.9.

In addition, conventional dyeing finish processing, water absorption processing, water repellent processing, resin processing, film laminating, brushing processing, UV shielding or antibacterial agent, deodorant, insect repellent, phosphorescent agent, retroreflecting agent, negative ion generator, etc. Various processes that impart the function of the above may be additionally applied.
Of these, it is preferable that the woven fabric is coated with a resin or laminated with a film.

Since the woven fabric is flat, it is easy to apply coating and film laminating. Further, since the polyamide fiber and the dye are chemically bonded, transfer sublimation to the coating resin or film resin is not observed, so that excellent coating and film laminating suitability can be obtained. The processing method can be performed by any method such as a spray method, a coating method (wet / dry method), and a laminating method, and can be appropriately selected depending on the form of the fiber structure and the type of coating resin / film resin. .. Examples of the types of coating resin / film resin include, but are not limited to, a film made of a moisture-permeable urethane resin, a urethane resin coating, an acrylic resin coating, a polytetrafluoroethylene resin film, a polyester film, and the like. do not have.

The thickness of the woven fabric thus obtained is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 mm or less (more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 mm). The basis weight is not particularly limited, but is preferably 200 g / m ² or less (more preferably 40 to 150 g / m ² ).

In the woven fabric of the present invention, since the composite yarn is arranged, uneven wrinkles are generated on the surface of the woven fabric even if the yarn is sufficiently crimped in the dyeing process in order to exhibit stretchability. The woven fabric becomes flat without any problem, and excellent wear resistance, tear strength, coating / film laminating suitability, and stretchability can be obtained.

As such stretchability, it is preferable that the stretchability in the weft direction of the woven fabric is 5% or more (preferably 15 to 60% or more). However, the stretchability shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 B method.

Further, it is preferable that the stretchability recovery rate in the weft direction of the woven fabric is 75% or more. However, the stretchability recovery rate shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 B-1 method.

Further, it is preferable that the wear resistance is grade 3 or higher. However, wear resistance shall be measured by the JIS L 1058 D-4 method.

Further, it is preferable that the tear strength is 7 N or more (more preferably 7 to 20 N). However, the tear strength shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 D method.

Further, it is preferable that the water repellency is 3rd grade or higher. However, the water repellency shall be measured by the JIS L 1092 spray method.

Next, the garment of the present invention is made by using the above-mentioned woven fabric. Such garments include shirts, pants and shorts worn as outerwear or underwear for various sports. It doesn't matter whether it's for competition or training. Examples include soccer shirts, golf shirts, tennis shirts, basket shirts, table tennis shirts, badminton shirts, running shirts, soccer pants, tennis pants, basket pants, table tennis pants, badminton pants, running pants, golf pants, and various sports underwear. Includes shirts, innerwear for various sports, sweaters, T-shirts, jerseys, trainers, windbreakers, etc.

Since the above-mentioned woven fabric is used, the woven fabric has a flat surface without wrinkles, and is excellent in abrasion resistance, tear strength, coating film laminating suitability, and stretchability.

Next, examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In addition, each measurement item in an Example was measured by the following method.
(1) Torque A sample (crimped yarn) of about 70 cm is stretched horizontally, and an initial load of 0.18 mN x display tex (2 mg / de) is hung in the center, and then both ends are aligned. The yarn starts to rotate due to the residual torque, but it is held as it is until the initial load stops, and a twisted yarn is obtained. The number of twists of the twisted yarn thus obtained is 25 cm long under a load of 17.64 mN × display tex (0.2 g / de) and measured with a twister. The torque (T / m) is calculated by quadrupling the obtained number of twists (T / 25 cm).
(2) Degree of interlace The entangled yarn is taken to a length of 1 m under a load of 8.82 mN × display tex (0.1 g / de), and after deweighting, the number of nodal points after 24 o'clock discharge at room temperature is read. , Ke / m.
(3) Shrinkage rate The test yarn was wound around a measuring machine with a circumference of 1.125 m to prepare a skein with a dry fineness of 3333 dtex. The skein is suspended from a hanging nail of a scale plate, an initial load of 6 g is applied to the lower portion thereof, and the length L0 of the skein when a load of 600 g is further applied is measured. Immediately thereafter, the load is removed from the skein, removed from the hanging nail of the scale plate, and the skein is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes to develop crimping. The skein after the boiling water treatment is taken out from the boiling water, the water contained in the skein is absorbed and removed with a filter paper, and the skein is air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. This air-dried skein is hung on a hanging nail of a scale plate, a load of 600 g is applied to the lower part thereof, the length L1a of the skein is measured after 1 minute, then the load is removed from the skein, and the skein is removed after 1 minute. The length L2a is measured. The crimp ratio (CP) of the test filament yarn is calculated by the following formula. CP (%) = ((L1a-L2a) / L0) × 100
(4) Stretchability The stretchability (%) was measured by the JIS L 1096 B method.
(5) Stretchability recovery rate The stretchability recovery rate (%) was measured by the JIS L 1096 B-1 method.
(6) Appearance of woven fabric surface According to the sensory evaluation of three testers, the woven fabric surface is good because the surface of the woven fabric is flat without any unevenness due to grain. There was a defect, and it was evaluated on a three-point scale.
(7) Abrasion resistance of woven fabric Abrasion resistance (class) was measured by the JIS L 1058 D-4 method.
(8) Tear strength of the woven fabric The tear strength (N) was measured by the JIS L 1096 D method.
(9) Transition sublimation The fabric was wet-coated with urethane, and the presence or absence of transition sublimation was visually evaluated.
(10) Water repellency The water repellency (class) was measured by the JIS L 1092 spray method.
(11) Metsuke of woven fabric The basis weight (g / m ² ) of the woven fabric was measured by JIS L1096.

[Example 1]
Melt-spun using ordinary polyamide from an ordinary spinning device and winding without stretching to obtain a semi-stretched polyamide yarn 28dtex / 17fil. Next, using the polyamide yarn, simultaneous draw false twist crimping is performed under the conditions of a draw ratio of 1.3 times, a false twist number of 6000 T / m (S direction), a heater temperature of 180 ° C., and a yarn speed of 350 m / min. rice field. Further, using the polyamide yarn, simultaneous drawing false twist crimping was performed under the conditions of a draw ratio of 1.3 times, a false twist number of 6000 T / m (Z direction), a heater temperature of 180 ° C., and a yarn speed of 350 m / min. .. Next, the false twist crimped yarn having the torque in the S direction and the false twist crimped yarn in the Z direction are combined to perform an air entanglement treatment, and the composite false twist crimped yarn (44 dtex / 34fil, winding) is performed. A reduction ratio of 46% and a torque of 0 T / m) were obtained. In the air entanglement treatment, an interlaced nozzle was used to impart entanglement of 50 pieces / m at an overfeed rate of 1.0% and a compressed air pressure of 0.07 MPa (0.7 kgf / cm ² ). Next, the composite false twist crimped yarn was arranged on the warp and weft, and a plain weave fabric was woven using a normal water jet room loom. Then, the woven fabric was dyed black with an acid dye at 100 ° C. for 45 minutes, and after a normal water-repellent treatment and a coating treatment, a final set was applied.

In the woven fabric thus obtained, the texture is 63 g / m ² , the warp density is 160 lines / 2.54 cm, the weft density is 110 / 2.54 cm, the cover factor is 1707, the weft stretchability is 15%, and the stretchability recovery rate in the weft direction is 90%. , Surface grade 3: The surface of the woven fabric was flat and good, and the surface was flat without wrinkles, and was excellent in wear resistance, tear strength, and water repellency. In addition, there was no sublimation to the coating resin, and the quality was good.

[Comparative Example 1]
The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that a false twist crimped yarn made of polyamide (44 dtex / 34 fil, crimp ratio 46%, torque 60 T / m) was used as the yarn.
In the woven fabric thus obtained, the texture is 65 g / m ² , the warp density is 163 lines / 2.54 cm, the weft density is 112 / 2.54 cm, the cover factor is 1739, the weft stretchability is 14%, and the stretchability recovery rate in the weft direction is 88%. Although it was excellent in abrasion resistance, tear strength, and water repellency, and there was no transition sublimation, the surface was first grade: the surface of the woven fabric was not flat and uneven wrinkles were generated.

[Comparative Example 2]
A plain weave woven fabric was woven using a normal water jet room loom using a false twist crimped yarn (44 dtex / 48fil, crimp ratio 14%, torque 0 T / m) made of polyester. Then, the woven fabric was dyed black with a disperse dye at 135 ° C. for 45 minutes, and after a normal water-repellent treatment and a coating treatment, a final set was applied. In the woven fabric thus obtained, the texture is 75 g / m ² , the warp density is 162 lines / 2.54 cm, the weft density is 112 / 2.54 cm, and the cover factor 1733 has a weft stretchability of 19% and a weft stretch recovery rate of 89%. , Surface grade 3: The surface of the woven fabric was flat and good, and the surface was flat without wrinkles, and was excellent in wear resistance, tear strength, and water repellency. However, the transition to the coating resin and sublimation were observed, and the quality was not good.

According to the present invention, a woven fabric and a garment having a flat woven surface, excellent stretchability, and no dye transfer sublimation are provided, and their industrial value is extremely large.

Claims (16)

A woven fabric containing a composite yarn containing a false twist crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and a false twisted crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction, and the false twisted crimped yarn A and the false twisted crimped yarn A. A woven fabric in which both the crimped yarns B are made of nylon 6 or a polyamide fiber made of nylon 66 or nylon 46 , and the number of filaments in the composite yarn is in the range of 20 to 300 . The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn has a torque of 30 T / m or less. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein in the composite yarn, entanglement is imparted within the range of 30 to 90 entanglements / m. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composite yarn has a crimp ratio of 5% or more. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composite yarn has a single fiber fineness of 4 dtex or less. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the constituent yarns of the woven fabric are only the composite yarn. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the woven fabric has a cover factor CF in the range of 1400 to 4200.
However, the cover factor CF is defined by the following formula.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the total fineness of the warp (dtex), MWp is the weaving density of the warp (book / 2.54 cm), DWf.
Is the total fineness of the weft (dtex), and MWf is the density of the weft weft (book / 2.54 cm). ] The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the woven fabric is selected from the group consisting of a plain weave structure, a twill weave structure, a satin weave structure, a double weave structure, and a modified structure thereof. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the woven fabric has a resin coating or is laminated with a film. The woven fabric according to claim 9, wherein there is no transfer sublimation of the dye to the coated resin or film. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the woven fabric has a stretchability of 5% or more in the weft direction.
However, the stretchability shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 B method. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the stretchability recovery rate in the weft direction of the woven fabric is 75% or more.
However, the stretchability recovery rate shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 B-1 method. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 12, which has a abrasion resistance of grade 3 or higher.
However, wear resistance shall be measured by the JIS L 1058 D-4 method. The stretchable woven fabric having a flat surface according to any one of claims 1 to 13, which has a tear strength of 7 N or more.
However, the tear strength shall be measured by the JIS L 1096 D method. The stretchable woven fabric having a flat surface according to any one of claims 1 to 14, which has a water repellency of 3rd grade or higher.
However, the water repellency shall be measured by the JIS L 1092 spray method. Clothing made of the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 15.