JP4026370B2 - Chest interlining dyeing method - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a dyeing method for finishing a horizontal woven fabric having high bending resilience in the horizontal direction and good bend recovery to a quality free from rope-like dyeing lines and wrinkles.
[0002]
[Prior art]
At present, a liquid dyeing method is generally used as a method for dyeing fabrics. However, in liquid flow dyeing, the fabric is dyed in a rope shape, and rope-like dyeing unevenness and wrinkles are likely to occur. .
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, and does not provide a method for dyeing a breast interlining which can dye a horizontal woven fabric and have a good surface quality without streaks or wrinkles. It is what.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following configuration. That is, the weft fabric includes a polyester multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 20 dtex or more in the weft yarn, and the weft fabric having a value obtained by dividing the B value of the KES bending property by the B value of the warp is 15 or more. A method for dyeing breast interstices characterized by dyeing with a dye.
[0005]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
[0006]
The woven fabric having a good width obtained by the present invention is suitable for use as a breast interlining.
[0007]
It is important that the woven fabric targeted by the present invention includes a polyester multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 20 dtex or more in the weft yarn constituting the yarn, which is sufficient for a polyester multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of less than 20 dtex. Cannot be obtained.
[0008]
The weft yarn of the present invention is preferably one in which a polyester multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 20 dtex or more and other polyester yarn are compounded by twisting, twisting, drawing, entanglement, or the like.
[0009]
The total fineness of polyester yarns with a single yarn fineness of 20 dtex or more and the total fineness of other polyester yarns are too thick. The total fineness of polyester yarns with a single yarn fineness of 20 dtex or more is too thick. 200 to 400 dtex is preferable, and the total fineness of the other polyester yarn is preferably 200 to 400 dtex.
[0010]
The composite ratio of the polyester yarn having a single yarn fineness of 20 dtex or more and the other polyester yarns becomes heavy when the composite ratio of the other polyester yarns increases, so that the polyester yarn having a single yarn fineness of 20 dtex or more is 40 to 95. % By weight is preferred.
[00011]
Further, other examples of preferred polyester yarn such as take-up speed of 2000～4500M / min POY is exemplified et been in melt spinning takeoff speed is 2500～3500M / min is more preferred.
[0012]
For example, a polyester yarn with a take-up speed of 1500 m / min is said to be substantially unstretched, and is unfavorable because it becomes extremely fragile when subjected to heat treatment without stretching and loses industrial utility value. Polyester yarn having a take-up speed of 5000 m / min is not preferred because it exhibits significantly poor resilience and shape retention.
[0013]
As the warp yarn, a polyester multifilament yarn generally used, for example, having a total fineness of 84 dtex may be used, and false twisted yarn, fusion yarn, or composite yarn may be used. If a polyester multifilament yarn having a total fineness larger than 110 dtex is used, the woven fabric is thick, and the weft density of the woven fabric is reduced and the rebound in the transverse direction is lowered.
[0014]
The loom to be used includes an air jet method, a water jet method, a throughzer method, and a rapier method, but it is desirable to use a loom that can be woven.
[0015]
As the woven fabric structure, a plain structure is preferable since deformation of the woven fabric is small.
[0016]
It is desirable that the weaving machine is subjected to a living machine set at 175 to 200 [deg.] C. and contracted by 7 to 14% in the horizontal direction in order to have a horizontal tension.
[0017]
The scouring may be performed under the condition of a polyester fiber fabric that uses a normal scouring machine and removes the paste adhering to the raw machine.
[0018]
As the fabric before dyeing of the present invention, the horizontal bending stiffness B value (gf · cm ² / cm) of physical properties in Kawabata's Evaluation System, so-called KES, which is a texture evaluation method, is used as the bending stiffness B value (gf · In order to obtain a good surface quality of the present invention, the fabric divided by cm ² / cm) should be dyed in an expanded form, and the dye is dyed in an expanded form. There is no particular limitation.
[0019]
For example, as a method of dyeing the dye in a spread form, the method includes drawing, dipping after dyeing, steaming or drying / baking, dyeing the color paste containing the dye on the fabric surface, and steaming. Examples thereof include a continuous dyeing method such as a method in which a liquid is applied on one or both surfaces and then a heat treatment, and a batch dyeing method such as a jigger dyeing and a beam dyeing. It is preferable to select a method that facilitates dyeing, such as a method in which defects such as wrinkles are less likely to occur during dyeing. As the dye, it is preferable to use a dye suitable for a polyester fiber that is a woven material, for example, polyethylene terephthalate fiber, polypropylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, or the like, and normal conditions for dyeing the polyester fiber fabric may be used.
[0020]
The reduction cleaning after dyeing may be performed under the normal conditions for reducing and cleaning the polyester fiber fabric.
[0021]
The drying is preferably performed at 120 to 130 ° C.
[0022]
It is desirable that the finishing set is performed at 150 to 180 ° C. with a wide setting in a range of 0 to 1 cm with respect to the width before the finishing set so as to remove wrinkles.
[0023]
Moreover, the resin processing used for finishing may use an antistatic agent, a water repellent agent, a softening agent, a hard finish agent, an antibacterial agent, an antibacterial agent, an antifouling agent, a hygroscopic agent, and the like as necessary.
[0024]
As the woven fabric having a value obtained by dividing the horizontal bending stiffness B value (gf · cm ² / cm) of the physical characteristics in KES by the vertical bending stiffness B value (gf · cm ² / cm), the above-mentioned weft yarn , Preferably using the above-described warp yarn, and preferably performing the above-described raw machine set, and the horizontal bending stiffness B value (gf · cm ² / cm) of the physical characteristics in KES is determined as the bending stiffness B value of the warp These conditions can be appropriately selected and set so that the value obtained by dividing by (gf · cm ² / cm) is 15 or more.
[0025]
In the present invention, it is inserted between the outer material and the lining material of a suit or the like, and is preferably used for a fabric such as a breast lining material that plays a role of maintaining the shape of the trunk, and has a high bending resilience in the horizontal direction. It is a feature.
[0026]
The woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, such as plain weave and twill weave.
In addition, the measuring method of the physical property of this invention is as follows.
1) KES bending property B value texture evaluation method Kawabata's Evaluation System Measures the bending stiffness B value (gf · cm ² / cm) of physical properties in so-called KES.
Measurement condition Maximum curvature: K = ± 2.5cm ^-1
Deformation speed: Curvature 0.5 / sec
Sample: 20cm x 20cm
The KES measurement method is a method of quantifying the texture of clothing, and is shown in “Texture and Clothing” in the 1980 Vol.33 of the Textile Society of Japan, Textile Society of Textiles, for example, measured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd. The vessel is manufactured and sold.
[0027]
The bending stiffness of a weft is obtained by bending the weft yarn of the woven fabric (a shape in which the woven fabric is folded vertically) and measuring the stiffness.
2) Washing test Washing is performed according to A-2 method of JIS-L-0844.
[0028]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples.
[0029]
Example 1
A vertical yarn density of 333 decitex, 10 filament stretched yarn and 285 decitex, 30 filament POY (pickup speed 3000 m / min) is drawn into a warp yarn of 83 dtex, 36 filament polyester false twisted yarn, and driven into a warp density. A green machine with 110 pieces / inch and a horizontal density of 40 pieces / inch was woven.
[0030]
Using a pin tenter, this raw machine was set at 180 ° C. for 30 seconds with a small tension load and contracted by 8% in the width direction, and then scoured and dried in an expanded form. Value obtained by dividing the horizontal bending stiffness B value (gf · cm ² / cm) of physical properties in the texture evaluation method Kawabata's Evaluation System so-called KES by the vertical bending stiffness B value (gf · cm ² / cm). Was 26, and then, as a pad solution, Dianix Black E-G 30 g / L
Ionette 300 (Sanyo Chemicals dispersant) 2g / L
Sodium alginate 2g / l
After being drawn at 60 ° C. and drawn at 100 ° C., heat treatment was performed at 220 ° C. for 45 seconds.
The resulting woven fabric was gray with good surface quality without wrinkles and dye lines.
[0031]
Comparative Example 1
A similar dyeing machine was used for dyeing in gray with a liquid dyeing machine, and rope-like dyeing wrinkles were confirmed.
[0032]
【The invention's effect】
The effects of the present invention are as follows.
1) A horizontal woven fabric with good surface quality can be obtained.
2) Less dimensional change due to washing as a breast interlining.

Claims (1)

The weft yarn contains polyester multifilament yarn with a single yarn fineness of 20 dtex or more, and weaving the woven fabric with a value of 15 or more obtained by dividing the B value of the KES bending property by the B value of the warp in a spread form A method for dyeing breast interlining , which comprises dyeing.