JP2005105455A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric having excellent air-permeability and slipperiness, and hardly causing slippage of yarns in the woven fabric. <P>SOLUTION: The woven fabric is composed of a leno cloth having 1,000-1,800 total cover factor regulated so that the ratio (A/B) of the cover factor (A) of the warp yarns to the cover factor (B) of the weft yarns may be 0.7-1.6. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a woven fabric that is excellent in breathability and slipperiness and suitable for lining applications that are less likely to cause misalignment.

Conventionally, in order to impart coolness to clothing, fabrics having high air permeability, for example, fabrics with a coarse texture and relatively thin fabric have been used. In Japanese clothes, a woven fabric composed of a woven fabric structure (hereinafter referred to as a woven fabric) has been used as a highly cool clothing.
In order to impart breathability to an upper garment or a lining, it is known to use a woven fabric having a specific structure (see, for example, Patent Document 1). However, the woven fabric used for the lining needs to be free from misalignment and excellent in slipperiness, but it has been difficult to satisfy all of these performances with the entangled fabric. In particular, in order to obtain the required air permeability level, the total cover factor needs to be 1800 or less, but the occurrence of misalignment becomes significant. In Patent Document 1, it is disclosed that the misalignment is improved by configuring the entangled fabric with twisted yarn, but the effect is not sufficient, and the problem that the slipperiness necessary for the lining use is reduced occurs. .
JP-A-7-82602

  An object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric that is excellent in air permeability and slipperiness and is less likely to cause misalignment.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the inventor has studied in detail the structural requirements of the entangled fabric, for example, the relationship between the fiber material and its form, shape, fabric density, etc. and misalignment. The inventors have found that the deviation is greatly improved and have reached the present invention.
That is, the present invention is as follows.
1. A woven fabric comprising a woven fabric having a total cover factor of 1000 to 1800 and a ratio (A / B) of warp cover factor (A) to weft cover factor (B) of 0.7 to 1.6 .
2. 2. The woven fabric according to 1 above, wherein the warp and / or weft is a substantially untwisted multifilament yarn.
3. A lining composed of the woven fabric according to 1 or 2 above.

  The woven fabric of the present invention is excellent in breathability and slipperiness and hardly causes misalignment, and can be suitably used for lining applications.

The present invention will be specifically described below.
The entangled woven fabric referred to in the present invention is a fabric material structure well known in the Japanese clothing industry, and a pair of ground warp and entangled warp is used, and the position of the entwined warp is changed by one or several wefts. It is a woven fabric that is textured and has a tangled line between the wefts. For example, it is shown in pages 89 to 102 of the textile engineering 2 fabric issued by Jikkyo Publishing Co., Ltd. FIG. 1 shows a diagram representing the most basic cocoon structure. This is a woven fabric in which a ground warp a and an entangled warp b are organized by changing the position of each weft c, and an entangled d is formed between the weft and the weft.

  As the woven fabric structure, there are irregular cocoons (紗) that combine cocoons, cocoons, cocoons and cocoons, and there are two, three, four, etc., depending on the number of warps that are involved. In the present invention, a combination of these can be used according to the purpose. In particular, two strands are suitable for thinning, flexibility and slipperiness. Further, as the lining structure that places importance on the see-through property, a three-row cocoon, five-fold cocoon, etc., or an irregular cocoon combining cocoon and cocoon is suitable and can be appropriately selected according to the purpose. . In addition, as a means of producing a striped pattern in a woven structure, we can use a weave structure, an irregular wrinkle with a combination of wrinkles and wrinkles, a different fineness, a warp, an empty feather, a different fineness, etc. A stripe pattern is preferred.

The woven fabric of the present invention is characterized in that the total cover factor (TC) calculated by the following formula is 1000 to 1800. If it is less than 1000, it is difficult to suppress misalignment, and the slippage of the seam is significantly reduced. When it exceeds 1800, it tends to be poor in air permeability, lightness and flexibility as a lining fabric. More preferably, it is 1100-1600, Most preferably, it is 1200-1500.
TC = (fineness of warp: dtex) ^0.5 × warp density (main / 2.54 cm) + (fineness of weft: dtex) ^0.5 × weft density (main / 2.54 cm)

The woven fabric of the present invention is also characterized in that the ratio (A / B) of the warp cover factor (A) to the weft cover factor (B) is 0.7 to 1.6. If it is less than 0.7, it is difficult to suppress misalignment, and if it exceeds 1.6, it is difficult to suppress misalignment, and the fabric surface lacks slipperiness. More preferably, it is 0.9-1.45.
A = (fineness of warp: dtex) ^0.5 × warp density (line / 2.54 cm)
B = (fineness of weft: dtex) ^0.5 × weft density (line / 2.54 cm)
The multifilament yarn in which the warp and / or the weft is substantially non-flammable in the present invention means a twist number of less than 500 T / m. It is possible to suppress misalignment by imparting twist, but if it is 500 T / m or more, the slipperiness of the fabric is deteriorated and the soft texture is hindered.

  If the fabric of the present invention has stretch properties in the warp direction and / or the weft direction, the stress concentration at the seam is reduced, the seam slippage is improved, and the feeling of pressure at the time of wearing is reduced. As means for obtaining stretch properties in the warp direction and / or the weft direction, known polyester yarns such as false twisted yarns, knitted knitted yarns, indented yarns and latent crimped polyester fibers can be used. Alternatively, it can be applied in the dyeing process. As a method for imparting weft stretchability in the dyeing process, as disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 3338029, cellulosic fibers such as cupra rayon fiber, viscose rayon fiber, and acetate fiber are used before scouring the raw yarn. After water was applied to the woven fabric, the weft elongation was increased to 5 to 12% by carrying out the heat treatment at 100 to 210 ° C. with a width of 5 to 15% of the width of the woven fabric after weaving. Lining can be obtained. The 5 to 15% width-filling heat treatment method is the same as the case where the weft yarn is a polyester long fiber, but the difference is that water is applied to the raw fabric before the width-filling heat treatment. It is important to keep

Examples of the material used in the present invention include cellulose fiber yarns such as cupra rayon fiber, viscose rayon fiber and acetate fiber, and polyester fibers such as polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, polyethylene terephthalate fiber, and polybutylene terephthalate fiber. And synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, with cupra rayon fibers being preferred.
The shape of the fiber may be uniform or thick in the length direction. The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped, Yaba-shaped, flat (flatness of about 1.3-4, W-shaped, I-shaped, Boomerang The shape may be a polygonal shape such as a dog shape, a multi-leaf shape, a hollow shape, or an indeterminate shape.
As a form of the yarn of the present invention, a filament yarn may be mixed at a yarn stage by a known means such as entanglement and blending, and one to several yarns may be used alternately in warp and / or weft.

  As for the form of the woven fabric, there are no restrictions on the combination of warp and weft fiber materials, depending on the type of clothing to be used for the lining, the part to be used, the content of the required performance (water washing or dry cleaning), etc. Selected. For example, when it is used for the lining of clothes that are inexpensive and easy-care (small dimensional change is less likely to wrinkle even when washed with water) and is frequently used, 100% polyester fiber for warp and polyester fiber for weft A backing made of 100% raw yarn or 100% polyester continuous fiber false twisted yarn or 100% polyester fiber in combination of latent crimped polytrimethylene phthalate fibers is preferred. On the other hand, in the case of expensive clothes that require practical comfort (moisture absorption / release performance and anti-static properties) and drapeability, the lining is made of 100% cellulosic fibers made of a combination of cellulosic fibers in both the length and the length. It is preferable that

Examples of the method for weaving the entangled fabric of the present invention include a normal loom equipped with an entanglement raft, a rapier loom, an air jet loom, a water jet loom, a gripper loom (bullet loom), and a multiphase loom. However, the present invention is not limited to these, and any loom equipped with a device capable of weaving the woven fabric by equipping other than the entanglement can be used. For example, there is a gripper loom equipped with a power leno manufactured by Sulzer Textile.
It is preferable that the warp threading of the ground structure is made to be an empty wing for each wing, so that the warp warpage is eliminated. As the entanglement kite, a yarn kite or a metal kite can be used. However, the metal kite has good weaving properties, fabric defects, and fabric warp quality, and is suitable for preventing slippage. It is assumed that the reason why the metal wrinkles are good in terms of anti-seizure property is that when the warp is entangled, the warp has a uniform tension, and the weft grip is strengthened by a stable warp tension balance.

In the present invention, the total fineness of the raw yarn is preferably 33d to 110 dtex for warp yarn, more preferably 33 to 56 dtex, and more preferably 56 to 167 dtex for weft yarn, and more preferably 84 to 110 dtex. However, it is not limited to these. The single yarn fineness is preferably in the range of 0.11 to 3.5 dtex, and more preferably in the range of 0.22 to 2.34 dtex.
To achieve the purpose of the mass per unit area according to the present invention tangled fabric of the present invention is preferably 35~90g / ^{m 2,} more preferably 35~80g / ^{m 2,} most preferably 40~70g / m ² . If it is less than 30 g / m ² , the tendency of inferior eye-proofing tends to be inferior, and if it exceeds 90 g / m ² , it tends to be insufficient in light weight as a woven fabric.

The air permeability of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 100 cc / cm ² / sec or more, more preferably 150 cc / cm ² / sec or more, most preferably 200 cc / cm ² / sec or more, and 100 cc / cm ^2. If it is less than / sec, it may not be suitable as the lining fabric that is the object of the present invention.
For the raw machine scouring of the present invention, it is preferable to use a generally used open soap type continuous scouring machine, liquid flow type dyeing machine, suspension-type continuous scouring machine in bath, and softener scouring machine. After the scouring is completed, a dyeing and finishing process, which is a general processing process for the lining, is applied. When softening the texture with 100% polyester fiber, it is possible to reduce the alkali before dyeing.

  For the dyeing process when the woven fabric of the present invention is made of 100% polyester fiber, a conventional processing method composed of polyester fiber is applied, and a liquid flow dyeing machine, beam dyeing machine, zicker dyeing machine, wins Although a dyeing machine or the like is used, a liquid dyeing machine is preferable from the viewpoint of the quality and cost of the dyed product. As for the finishing process after dyeing, a process widely used in the production of a lining using polyester fibers is applied as in the dyeing process. However, it should be noted that if the ratio of width-developing by a pin tenter or the like for removing wrinkles in the final finishing process is large, a stretched woven fabric will become a lining with little elongation.

  Moreover, in order to express the stretch property with a smooth surface, for example, it is preferable to perform a final set that also serves as a finishing process after dyeing and dyeing the raw machine after relaxing the width. As the machine used for the relaxation treatment, it is more preferable to use a U-type softer or an open soaper in terms of surface properties and expression of stretch properties. The temperature when scouring in an expanded state with a U-type softer or an open soaper is preferably 80 to 105 ° C, more preferably 90 to 100 ° C. In order to develop the stretch in both the warp and weft directions, it is preferable to perform a relaxing process with a liquid dyeing machine. The temperature for the relaxation treatment is preferably 95 to 130 ° C, more preferably 100 to 120 ° C.

  It is more preferable to put an intermediate set before dyeing in order to achieve surface smoothness. The temperature of the intermediate set is preferably 150 to 190 ° C. If it is less than 150 degreeC, set property is inadequate, and if it exceeds 190 degreeC, stretch property may fall. The width setting at the time of intermediate setting is preferably selected as appropriate so that the width after dyeing is as close as possible to the target finishing width. In the finishing step, an antistatic agent, a water repellent, a sweat absorbing agent, or the like can be additionally provided as a finishing agent. Moreover, in order to improve the gloss, smoothness, and texture of the fabric surface, calendering or the like can be applied after applying the finishing agent.

  In the dyeing process in the case of an union lining made of cellulosic fibers / polyester fibers, first, scouring is performed in the same manner as described above, and then polyester fibers that are wefts are dyed. Next, the cellulosic fibers are dyed. In this case, it may be dyed by using the same dyeing machine as that used for dyeing polyester fibers, or by using another dyeing machine such as a cold pad batch method, a pad steam method or a zicker method. In the finishing process after the completion of dyeing, a resin process for improving the washing shrinkage rate and the fastness to wet friction, which is carried out in normal cellulose fiber processing, can also be imparted. Further, in order to develop a weft stretch property with a smooth surface, the same processing as that of a lining made of 100% polyester fiber may be performed.

  In the dyeing process of the lining made of 100% cellulosic fibers, scouring is performed for the purpose of removing the spinning oil and warp glue oil adhering to the fabric. The treatment liquid used in the scouring process is preferably water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali. There is no particular limitation such as an open soap type continuous scouring machine, a liquid flow type dyeing machine, a suspension type continuous scouring machine in bath, and a soft scouring machine generally used for scouring fabrics. In consideration of productivity and generation of wrinkles during processing, it is preferable to use an open soap type continuous scouring machine or a zicker dyeing machine.

  The scoured woven fabric is finished into a lining optionally added with general processing of the lining using cellulosic fibers. One of the dyeing methods is not particularly limited, and liquid dyeing method, zicker dyeing method, beam dyeing method, cold pad batch dyeing method, pad steam dyeing method, pad roll dyeing method, etc. The dye and dyeing method used may be appropriately selected depending on the type of cellulosic fiber used for the weft. When the warp is a polyester fiber and the weft is a cellulosic fiber, the same dyeing machine as described above can be used. However, the cellulosic fiber may be dyed using the same machine as that for dyeing the polyester fiber. In addition, cellulosic fibers can be dyed using another dyeing machine using a cold pad batch method, a pad steam method, or a zicker method. In the finishing process after the completion of dyeing, it is preferable to provide a resin process for improving the washing shrinkage and the fastness to wet friction that are generally used in the processing of cellulose fibers. In this finishing step, an antistatic agent, a water repellent, a sweat absorbing agent or the like may be added as a finishing agent. Moreover, in order to improve the gloss, smoothness, and texture of the fabric surface, calendering can be performed after applying the finishing agent.

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, the numerical value in an Example and the judgment criteria of the characteristic of a product were implemented with the following evaluation methods.
(1) Evaluation of anti-slip property of woven fabric Five experienced persons who have been engaged in this industry for more than 5 years became monitors, and sensory evaluation was performed, and the following four steps were judged.
(Double-circle): It is very excellent in eye-proof shift.
○: It is generally excellent in misalignment resistance.
(Triangle | delta): It is inferior to some misalignment.
×: Inferior in anti-glare property.

(2) Evaluation of slipperiness of fabrics Five experienced persons who have been engaged in the art for 5 years or more became monitors, and the sensory evaluation when touched by hand was judged in the following four stages.
(Double-circle): A slip feeling is very favorable.
○: Good sliding feeling.
Δ: Slightly uncomfortable feeling.
X: A slippery feeling is bad.
(3) Aeration rate of woven fabric Measured by JIS-L1096 8.27.2A method (Fragile type method).

[Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-2]
The total cover factor is about 1500, and the design is appropriately changed to change the ratio of the warp cover factor to the weft cover factor, and 56 dtex / 30f substantially untwisted cupra rayon fiber is used for each warp. Prepared as a main case, and with a rapier weaving machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho equipped with a metal twine, 84 dtex / 45f of substantially untwisted cupra rayon fiber was driven into the weft yarn with different densities, and the twine of twine structure shown in FIG. I got a living machine.
Paste scouring was performed on this raw machine using an open soap type continuous scouring machine. Subsequently, after dyeing by the cold pad batch dyeing method, finishing was performed to obtain the woven fabric shown in Table 1.
As shown in Table 1, the results of the obtained woven fabric were excellent in slip prevention and breathability, and were optimum for a woven fabric lining having a good texture.

[Examples 4-6, Comparative Examples 3-4]
In order to keep the ratio of the warp cover factor to the weft cover factor constant at 1.0, and to change the total cover factor in various ways, the design was changed as appropriate to implement a substantially untwisted cupra rayon fiber of 56 dtex / 30f on the warp. In Examples 5 to 6 and Comparative Example 4, two wings are put in a cocoon, and in Example 4 and Comparative Example 3, two wings are put in a cocoon and each wing is emptied and a warp is prepared. In the rapier weaving machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, 84 dtex / 45f of substantially untwisted cupra rayon fibers were driven into the weft yarns with different densities to obtain a knotted tissue weaving machine shown in FIG. Paste scouring was performed on this raw machine using an open soap type continuous scouring machine. Subsequently, after dyeing by the cold pad batch dyeing method, finishing was performed to obtain the woven fabric shown in Table 2.
As shown in Table 2, the results of the obtained woven fabric were excellent in anti-slip properties and breathability, and were optimum for a woven fabric lining having a good texture.

[Examples 7 to 9, Comparative Examples 5 to 6]
A woven fabric shown in Table 3 was obtained in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, except that a twist of 1500 T / m was applied to the warp and a twist of 1200 T / m was applied to the weft. As shown in Table 3, the results of the obtained woven fabrics have a tendency for slipperiness to be slightly lowered in the woven fabrics of Examples 7 to 9, but they are excellent in slip prevention and breathability and are suitable for woven fabric lining. there were.

  The fabric of the present invention can be suitably used particularly for lining applications.

The organization chart of the ridge which becomes the basis of the tangle weave in this invention.

Explanation of symbols

a: Ground warp b: Tangle warp c: Weft d: Tangle

Claims (3)

  A woven fabric comprising a woven fabric having a total cover factor of 1000 to 1800 and a ratio (A / B) of warp cover factor (A) to weft cover factor (B) of 0.7 to 1.6 .   The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp and / or the weft is a substantially untwisted multifilament yarn.   A lining made of the woven fabric according to claim 1.

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