JP3862046B2 - Cool and thin composite fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a thin composite fabric excellent in coolness and a method for producing the same, and more particularly to a cool thin composite fabric suitable for a thin fabric such as a summer dress and a blouse and a method for producing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, fabrics excellent in coolness have been favored and used for thin fabric materials such as summer dresses and blouses, and various materials have been studied. In particular, fabrics using natural fibers such as cotton and hemp are excellent in refreshing feeling and water absorption and are widely used. However, these woven fabrics tend to become wrinkles and are difficult to handle when made into a sewn product, and the upper price is also relatively expensive.
[0003]
In consideration of these matters, a number of thin fabrics made of high-strength yarns of synthetic fiber multifilament yarns such as polyester, which are rich in easy care, relatively inexpensive and excellent in mechanical strength, have been proposed and marketed. At present, it has formed a market volume zone. However, synthetic fibers such as polyester have a peculiar slimy feeling, and since they are poor in water absorption, they cannot be denied that they are inferior to natural fibers in terms of comfort, such as being sticky due to sweating when worn.
[0004]
Strength in terms as described above, cellulosic fibers is inferior in easy care properties are excellent in cooling sensation, for example rayon, polynosic, diacetate, triacetate and strength of, the polyester and synthetic fibers excellent in easy care properties The development of a thin fabric material using a composite fabric made of different materials that makes the best use of the characteristics of both is desired. However, it is now common to adjust the texture of synthetic fibers, especially polyester, by alkali weight reduction treatment, but if the weight reduction processing is performed with a fabric combining the fibers and cellulosic fibers, the cellulosic fibers become extremely brittle. Therefore, not only does it have no practical strength, but also induces fluff, which is not preferable in terms of appearance quality.
[0005]
On the other hand, without alkali weight loss, the texture of the fabric is hard and dense, and it is soft and comfortable to wear. However, there is a very difficult task of optimizing the fabric design including dyeing, and it is an urgent need to develop a thin fabric material that satisfies the above characteristics.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a cool and thin composite fabric suitable for a summer thin fabric material for women, which is excellent in refreshing feeling and excellent in easy care properties and is a combination of cellulosic fibers and other synthetic fibers, and a method for producing the same. More specifically, it does not require an alkali weight reduction treatment for adjusting the texture when dyeing textiles, and it is relatively inexpensive and does not require an alkali weight reduction waste liquid treatment. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven fabric and a manufacturing method thereof.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to solve the above problems, the inventors have made extensive studies over a long period of time. Using twisted and twisted yarns for warp and / or wefts of fabrics to create a living machine with a specific weaving density, and to produce a soft and soft composite fabric that is soft and comfortable without being subjected to alkali weight loss treatment during dyeing It came to find out to get.
[0008]
That is, the invention according to the present invention is a twisted yarn obtained by subjecting a mixed yarn of a cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW of 5 to 15% to an additional twist satisfying the following formula: Is used for the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric, the cover factor CF is 1500-3500, the cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A constituting the blended yarn is not cut, and the woven fabric structure A ratio of the number of floats of warp and weft (T / W) is 3/1 to 1/1.
Twist number Tw (times / m); 15000 / D ^1/2 ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / D ^1/2 (where D is the total fineness (Den.) Of the twisted yarn)
A cover factor CF formed by using, as a warp and / or a weft of a woven fabric, a twisted yarn satisfying the following twist number of a cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW of 5 to 15%: The cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A constituting the twisted yarn is not cut, and the ratio (T / W) of the number of warps and wefts of the woven fabric is 3/1 to A refreshing thin fabric composite fabric characterized by being 1/1.
Twist number Tw (times / m); 15000 / D ^1/2 ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / D ^1/2 (where D is the total fineness (Den.) Of the twisted yarn)
More specifically, the mixing ratio (A / B) of cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A and synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B is in the range of 80/20 to 30/70 in weight ratio. The above-mentioned refreshing thin composite fabric, wherein the thin composite fabric and the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B are polyester multifilament yarns. Further, the invention relating to the production method of the present invention is a twisted yarn in which cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A and other synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW of 5 to 15% are twisted or subjected to additional twisting after blending. After weaving the strips into the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric, when the resulting raw machine is subjected to a dyeing process, the dyed cloth is subjected to a condition satisfying the following formula without performing an alkali weight loss treatment for adjusting the texture. It is a manufacturing method of the above-mentioned cool thin ground composite fabric characterized by finishing.
Difference of cover factor between raw machine and dyed fabric ∆CF; 280-500 (However, ΔCF = dyed cloth CF-green machine CF)
[0009]
The present invention is described in detail below. First, the invention according to the present invention relates to a warp of a woven fabric or a twisted yarn obtained by subjecting a cellulosic fiber multifilament yarn A and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B to a twisted yarn or a mixed yarn subjected to additional twisting satisfying the following formula: And woven fabric having a cover factor CF of 1500 to 3500 used for the weft.
Cover factor CF of woven fabric: 1500 ≦ CF ≦ 3500
Twist number Tw (times / m); 15000 / D ^1/2 ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / D ^1/2
(However, D indicates the total fineness (Den.) Of the twisted yarn.)
Here, the cover factor CF is generally given by the following formula: the unit is warp, the weft density is (main / 本), the warp is fine, and the weft fineness is denier.
CF = warp density x (warp fineness) ^1/2 + weft density x (weft fineness) ^1/2
Further, the twist number Tw (times / m) is generally represented by the following formula. The unit of yarn fineness is denier.
Tw = twisting coefficient K × (yarn fineness) ^1/2
[0010]
When the cover factor CF is less than 1500, the woven fabric has a sense of sheerness and softness, but there is a risk of slipping off the stitches and fraying, so that the consumption performance of the sewn product is not practical. End up. Moreover, if it exceeds the range of 3500, it becomes a little thick and heavy as a thin fabric for summer for women, making it unsuitable for a summer dress or blouse. The cover factor CF needs to be 1500 or more and 3500 or less, preferably 1500 or more and 3000 or less, more preferably 1700 or more and 2700 or less.
[0011]
The twist number Tw is 15000 / D ^1/2 or more and 27000 / D ^1/2 or less, more preferably 20000 / D ^1/2 or more and 25000 / D ^1/2, in order to impart a moderate cool feeling and translucency to the fabric. The following range is desirable. If the twist number Tw is in the range of less than 15000 / D1 / ^2, it is a sweet-medium twist region, and an appropriate refreshing feeling, dry feeling and sharpness cannot be given to the fabric. In addition, if the range exceeds 27000 / D ^1/2 , the texture of the fabric will be hard and unsuitable for apparel applications, and in the case of twisted yarn, cellulosic fiber multifilament yarn with poor strength will be cut into single yarns This leads to problems such as the appearance and quality of the finished fabric being impaired.
[0012]
Further, the ratio (T / W) of the number of warps and wefts of the woven fabric of the woven fabric needs to be 3/1 to 1/1. If the ratio (T / W) of the number of warp and weft floats in the woven structure exceeds 3/1, for example, satin structure such as five-colored satin, the woven fabric will have poor sense of sheerness, and it will be slightly heavy as a thin woven fabric. End up. On the other hand, when the ratio is less than 1/1, the weft float number becomes too large relative to the warp float number, and the anti-snugging property is extremely deteriorated. It becomes too much compared with the warp density, resulting in poor productivity, and a lack of sheerness and a heavy weight, which is not preferable for use in thin fabric materials such as summer dresses and blouses. By using plain weave, twill weave, and other changing structures in which the ratio (T / W) of the number of warps and wefts in the weave structure is in the range of 3/1 to 1/1, a moderate sense of sheerness, softness and lightness It can be applied to the fabric.
[0013]
The fabric basis weight (weight per unit area) is not particularly limited, but when considering the use of thin fabric for summer, it is preferable that the fabric weight is approximately in the range of 100 g / m ² to 200 g / m ² . When the fabric weight is less than 100 g / m ² , the fabric is too transparent, and it is necessary to pay attention to the foundation and the like. Must not.
On the other hand, if it exceeds 200 g / m ² , the woven fabric has a poor sense of sheerness, is heavy and lacks a soft feeling, and is not preferable as a summer clothing fabric material.
[0014]
Furthermore, the mixing ratio (A / B) of the cellulosic fiber multifilament yarn A and the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B of the composite yarn constituting the woven fabric is preferably in the range of 80/20 to 30/70 as a weight ratio.
When the mixing ratio (A / B) is in the range exceeding 80/20, the cellulosic fiber multifilament yarn A occupies most of the composite yarn, and although the refreshing feeling and soft feeling are improved, In this case, the strength is extremely weak and the consumption performance is not satisfactory. Moreover, when it is in a range of less than 30/70, the refreshing feeling, water absorption, and moderate dry feeling that are characteristic of the cellulosic fiber multifilament yarn A are not given, and the slime feeling of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B is felt. End up. The mixing ratio (A / B) is 80/20 to 30/70, more preferably 75/25 to 40/60, and still more preferably 60/40 to 40/60. It is possible to impart a refreshing feeling, water absorption, dry feeling and mechanical strength to the fabric.
[0015]
Examples of the cellulose fiber multifilament yarn A used in the present invention include viscose rayon, copper ammonia rayon, lyocell obtained by solvent spinning, polynosic, cellulose diacetate, cellulose triacetate and the like, but in particular cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate. Is suitable for use in the texture and strength of the fabric. Although there is no particular limitation on the single yarn fineness of the cellulosic fiber multifilament yarn, those having a denier of about 1 to 5 denier, more preferably about 2 to 4 denier are preferably used.
Further, if necessary, it is possible to mix a matting agent (dull agent) and other additives into the spinning solution for spinning.
[0016]
Examples of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B include nylon, polyester, acrylic, and the like, but polyester multifilament yarn is most preferable in terms of handleability and texture. The single yarn fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is not particularly limited, but may be appropriately selected in the range of about 1 denier to 5 denier according to the texture, feel and the like.
[0017]
As the single yarn cross-sectional shape, a known cross-section such as a triangular cross-section and other irregular cross-sections can be used in addition to a round cross-section. Moreover, you may use not only a solid cross section but a hollow cross section.
The boiling water shrinkage SHW of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is not particularly limited. However, when a medium shrink yarn of 3 to 15%, more preferably 5 to 10% is used, the cellulosic fiber multifilament yarn becomes a composite yarn. It is possible to effectively cover the surface layer portion of the film, which is preferable.
[0018]
As a composite method of the cellulosic fiber multifilament yarn A and the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B, it is desirable to subject them to weaving after twisting or blending, and after performing additional twisting. When mixing fibers, it is necessary to optimize the nozzle air pressure, yarn supply rate, yarn tension, etc. so that the cellulosic fiber multifilament yarns with low elongation at break and breaking strength do not reach single yarn cutting. desired. Additional twisting is performed using a known twisting machine such as a double twister, an Italian twisting machine, or a ring twister.
In this case, it is desirable to optimize the twisting conditions so that excessive tension is not applied.
[0019]
After twisting or additional twisting in the above range, the twisted yarn is used for weaving and / or weft of the woven fabric, and the loom to be used is preferably a rapier room, a projectile room, or an air jet room. The water jet loom is good in productivity, but the cellulosic fiber multifilament yarns are not preferable because the strength is lowered by wetting and the weaving operability is deteriorated. In addition, the fly shuttle room has poor productivity and is not practical at present.
[0020]
As described above, the woven fabric of the present invention uses the obtained twisted yarn of the composite yarn as warp or / and weft of the woven fabric. When the dyeing process is performed, an alkali weight loss treatment for adjusting the texture is performed. The feature is that the dyed fabric is finished under the conditions that satisfy the following conditions.
Difference in cover factor between raw machine and dyed cloth ΔCF; 280-500 (here, ΔCF = dyed cloth CF−green machine CF)
[0021]
Polyester fabrics are usually subjected to alkali weight loss treatment with an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide or the like to adjust the texture. However, when these strong alkaline aqueous solutions are used for cellulosic fiber multifilament yarns, they become extremely brittle, and fluff And the like, and the appearance quality of the fabric is lowered and the mechanical strength is lowered.
In addition, when the cellulose fiber multifilament yarn is cellulose diacetate or cellulose triacetate, it is saponified and reduced to rayon by the alkali weight loss treatment, which not only reduces the strength but also changes the expensive cellulose acetate into a relatively inexpensive rayon. Therefore, there is a problem in the process of obtaining the fabric.
[0022]
The difference ΔCF in the cover factor between the raw machine and the dyed fabric is in the range of 280 to 500, more preferably in the range of 280 to 400. If ΔCF is in the range of less than 280, the CF of the dyed fabric is not much different from the CF of the living machine, which causes slippage of the stitches and may cause a problem in terms of consumption performance. In addition, if the ΔCF exceeds 500, the dyed fabric will be rich, and it will not be able to obtain an appropriate sense of sheerness, lightness, and softness. It is not preferable.
[0023]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on examples. The physical property values in the text and in the examples are based on the measurement methods shown below.
(Boiling water shrinkage SHW)
Using a measuring instrument with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, applying an initial load of 0.1 g / d, rewinding the sample at a speed of 120 times / minute, creating a gavel with a winding number of 20 times, Apply double load and measure the heel length L0 (mm). Next, remove the load, immerse it in 96 ° C ± 2 ° C boiling water for 30 minutes in a way that does not prevent the shrinkage, remove it, remove the moisture using cotton cloth or blotting paper, and then in a horizontal state Air dry. After air drying, the load 40 times the initial load is applied again, the heel length L1 (mm) is measured, and the SHW is calculated by the following formula. In addition, let it be the measured value with the average value of the test number of 5 times.
SHW (%) = (L0−L1) / L0 × 100
[0024]
Example 1
Cellulose triacetate semi-dal round cross section multifilament 60 denier 30 filament (single yarn fineness 2 dpf.) And Toyobo ester 30 denier 18 filament (single yarn fineness 1.6 dpf. Boiling water shrinkage SHW = 5.5%, semidal round cross-section yarn) Were subjected to an air entanglement treatment at the same supply rate to obtain a composite yarn of 90 denier 48 filaments. The composite yarn is subjected to additional twisting 2000 times / m in the S twisting and Z twisting directions using a double twister DT310-C type manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., and 40 minutes at an ambient temperature of 75 ° C. using a vacuum heat setter. A twist set was made.
[0025]
The twisted yarn of the composite yarn was woven into a plain weave structure so that two S-twisted and Z-twisted arrays were arranged alternately, that is, SSZZSSZZ. The density on the weave is 90 warps / 吋, 66 wefts / 吋, and the cover factor CF of the living machine is 1480. Using the raw machine, scouring, relaxing, and dyeing with disperse dyes were performed, and then file setting was carried out to obtain a dyed fabric with a finishing density of 105 / 吋 and 83 / y. The dyed fabric had a cover factor CF of 1784, a cover factor difference ΔCF of 304, and a basis weight of 115 g / m ² . The woven fabric has a soft feeling and light weight, and is suitable for use in ladies' thin fabrics such as summer dresses and blouses having a moderate refreshing feeling and a transparent feeling. In addition, the problem of slippage of the seam and the problem of the slippage was not confirmed, and the finished product was satisfactory in terms of consumption performance.
[0026]
(Example 2)
The twisted yarn of the composite yarn used in Example 1 was woven into a 2/2 twill structure so that the arrangement of two S twists and Z twists was alternate, that is, SSZZSSZZ. The density on the weave is 93 warps / 吋, 84 wefts / 吋, and the cover factor CF of the living machine is 1680. Using this raw machine, a dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The finished density of the dyed fabric was 110 warps / 吋 and 102 wefts / 吋, and the cover factor CF of the dyed fabric was 2012, the cover factor difference ΔCF was 332, and the basis weight was 125 g / m ² . As in Example 1, the dyed fabric was also suitable for use in ladies' plain fabrics having an appropriate soft feeling, lightness and refreshing feeling. The slippage of stitches and mayors were not at a problem level and could withstand general consumption.
[0027]
Example 3
The twisted yarn of the composite yarn used in Example 1 was woven into the cashmere structure shown in FIG. 1 so that the arrangement of two S twists and Z twists was alternate, that is, SSZZSSZZ. The density on the weave was 165 warps / 吋, 85 wefts / 吋, and the cover factor CF of the living machine was 2371. A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the raw machine. The finished density of the dyed fabric is 180 warps / 吋, 100 wefts / 吋, and the cover factor CF of the dyed fabric is 2656, the difference ΔCF in the cover factor is 285, and the basis weight is 155 g / m ² . Compared to 2, it was slightly inferior to the sense of sheerness and lightness, but was suitable for use in ladies' thin fabrics having moderate softness and coolness. Further, there was no occurrence of slippage of stitches, fraying, etc., and general consumption performance was almost no problem.
[0028]
(Comparative Example 1)
The twisted yarn of the composite yarn used in Example 1 was woven into a five-ply satin structure shown in FIG. 2 so that the arrangement of two S twists and Z twists was alternate, that is, SSZZSSZZ. . The density on the weaving was 130 warps / 吋, 96 wefts / 吋, and the cover factor CF of the living machine was 2144. A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the raw machine. The finished density of the dyed fabric was 165 warps / 吋, 116 wefts / 吋, the cover factor CF of the dyed fabric was 2665, the cover factor difference ΔCF was 521, and the basis weight was 170 g / m ² . The dyed fabric has a low sense of sheerness and does not feel a light feeling, and is somewhat heavy and unpreferable for use as a thin fabric for women. Also, there was no problem level with respect to the slippage of the stitches and the minorities.
[0029]
(Comparative Example 2)
Using the double twister DT310-C type manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. using the composite yarn used in Example 1, and inserting an additional twist of 450 times / m in the S twist direction, a paste material for fibers mainly composed of PVA is obtained. The warp sizing was performed under the conditions of a paste temperature of 50 ° C. and a drying temperature of 80 ° C. The composite twisted yarn is used as a warp, and the weft yarn of the composite yarn used in Example 1 (2000 times / m twisted yarn of 90 denier 48 filament composite yarn) is used as the weft, the weft is S twist and the Z twist is 2 Weaving was made into a five-sheet satin structure shown in FIG. 3 so as to have this alternate configuration, that is, SSZZSSZZ. The density on the weave was 260 warps / 吋, 100 wefts / 吋, and the cover factor CF of the green machine was 3415.
A dyed fabric was obtained by the method according to Example 1 using the raw machine. The finishing density of the dyed fabric is 300 warps / 吋, 120 wefts / 吋, the cover factor CF of the dyed fabric is 3985, the difference ΔCF in the cover factor is 570, and the basis weight is 210 g / m ^2. Not only was it scarce, but it did not feel light, and it was too heavy for women's thin fabric applications, making it unsuitable. There was no problem with the slipping of the stitches and the fraying, but the anti-pilling performance and anti-snugging performance were not good.
[0030]
【The invention's effect】
As described above, the composite fabric of the present invention has an appropriate refreshing feeling, and is excellent in handling property and consumption performance when made into a sewing product, and is suitable for use in summer thin clothing for ladies such as a blouse. It is.
[Brief description of the drawings]
1 is a cashmere tissue used in Example 1. FIG.
FIG. 2 shows a five-leaf satin structure used in Comparative Example 1.
FIG. 3 shows a five-leaf satin structure used in Comparative Example 2.

Claims (6)

A twisted yarn obtained by subjecting a mixed yarn of cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A and synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW of 5 to 15% to the following twist to satisfy the following formula is used for the warp and / or weft of the fabric. The cover factor-CF is 1500 to 3500, the cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A constituting the blended yarn is not cut, and the ratio of the number of warps and wefts of the woven fabric ( T / W) is 3/1 to 1/1.
Twist number Tw (times / m); 15000 / D ^1/2 ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / D ^1/2
(However, D indicates the total fineness (Den.) Of the twisted yarn.) A cover factor CF formed by using, as a warp and / or a weft of a woven fabric, a twisted yarn satisfying the following twist number of a cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW of 5 to 15%. The cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A constituting the twisted yarn is not cut, and the ratio (T / W) of the number of warps and wefts of the woven fabric is 3/1 to A refreshing thin fabric composite fabric characterized by being 1/1.
Twist number Tw (times / m); 15000 / D ^1/2 ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / D ^1/2
(However, D indicates the total fineness (Den.) Of the twisted yarn.) According to claim 1 or 2 soft thin cloth composite fabric wherein the basis weight of the fabric is 100 to 200 g / m ^2.  3. A refreshing thin fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixing ratio (A / B) of cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A and synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B is in the range of 80/20 to 30/70 by weight. Composite fabric.  The synthetic thin multifilament yarn B is a polyester-based multifilament yarn. Weaving cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn A and synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 5 to 15% by twisting or twisting after blending, and using it as warp and / or weft The dyed fabric is then finished under conditions satisfying the following formula without subjecting the obtained raw machine to a dyeing process, without performing an alkali weight loss treatment for adjusting the texture. A method for producing a refreshing thin composite fabric.
Difference in cover factor between raw machine and dyed fabric ΔCF; 280-500
(However, ΔCF = dyed cloth CF-green machine CF)

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