JP2859290B2 - Manufacturing method of spun fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial applications]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a spun brushed woven fabric using a polyester-based multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less by an alkali treatment.

[Prior art]

Conventionally, woven fabrics made of polyester and ultra-fine yarn with a filament fineness of 1 denier or less have excellent functions in softness, glossy luster, sliminess, heat retention, filtration ability (filtability), cleaning ability, etc. Because of this, it is widely used in the field of clothing, such as women's dresses, blouses, winter wear, and sportswear, and in the field of industrial materials, such as wiping cloths and filters. In recent years, in order to further emphasize the characteristics of polyester ultrafine yarn, especially in the garment field, a spun-tone woven fabric has been proposed in which a superfine yarn having a filament fineness of 0.5 denier or less is subjected to fluid treatment. Japanese Utility Model Laid-Open No. 60-97782, which is a proposal example of a spun-tone woven fabric using an ultrafine yarn, discloses that a composite yarn composed of a polyamide component and a polyester component is used, and a ring or slack of fibrillated polyester is applied to the surface of the fabric. It is disclosed that a spun-tone high-density fabric characterized by protruding is obtained. However, in such a woven fabric, the color matching of the polyester component is difficult in the dyeing process, and the process becomes complicated and the cost is considerably high in order to make the plain dyeing. Also, after weaving, a chemical agent is used in the processing step to shrink the polyamide component, so that a thick spun fabric can be obtained. However, the polyamide component part shrinks too much and the packing density inside the fabric increases, resulting in a hard core fabric. As a result, the drape property, which is important for clothing, is insufficient, and the fabric is tailored and uncomfortable to wear. In addition, this fabric, which contains a polyamide component,
High temperature dyeing cures the polyamide component, resulting in a low strength fabric. For this reason, it is difficult to dye the polyester component covering the woven fabric in a dark color, and the appearance is emphasized by the poor coloring property of the extra fine yarn, and the hue becomes a white blur and the commercial value is extremely low. This phenomenon becomes more remarkable as the amount of the polyester component increases. To solve this problem, a method of dissolving the polyester component by alkali treatment and dyeing the undissolved polyamide component or dissolving the polyamide component with formic acid or sulfuric acid and dyeing the remaining polyester component is used. Has been proposed. The former is a polyamide woven fabric containing a polyamide component having a single-fiber fineness of 0.5 denier or less, and therefore has no tension, so-called unpleasant texture, which is not preferable. In addition, the product lacks dimensional stability and pleating properties against heat. The latter has a problem that industrial production is extremely difficult in terms of safety and wastewater treatment because formic acid and sulfuric acid are used. JP-A-61-167079, another proposed example of a spun-tone fabric using ultrafine yarn, discloses a polyester polymer component having a high alkali solubility and a polyester polymer component having a low alkali solubility. A method for producing a fabric having a silky-textured texture, in which a woven fabric is obtained from a composite yarn and then subjected to alkali weight reduction to dissolve and remove a polymer component having high alkali solubility, is disclosed. However, there is a dissatisfaction that such a method does not have a loop-like fluff in the yarn of the dissolving alari yarn, so that a silk spinning texture cannot be obtained. As another example of using the splittable composite yarn as described above, a woven fabric using a direct spinning type ultra-fine yarn obtained by direct melt spinning has been proposed. In this case, it is a woven fabric obtained from a yarn entangled with a polyester multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less. However, the ultra-fine yarn of the direct spinning type has a problem in that the filament single yarn is extremely thin and the number of filaments is large, so that fluff and yarn breakage occur frequently at the stage of manufacturing the ultra-fine yarn, and the filament yarn has poor spreadability. In order to form a large number of loops, a fluid treatment with a large air zone overflow rate is performed, so that there is a problem that a nep occurs. On the other hand, if the fluid treatment is performed with the overfeed rate suppressed to a range where no neps are generated, the confounding becomes insufficient, the amount of loop formation is extremely reduced, and a spanned fabric cannot be obtained.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

The present invention solves the drawbacks of the prior art, and is easy to dye in dark and solid colors despite the use of splittable composite yarns, and evenly divides, drapes, and is soft and warm. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a spun brushed fabric having a texture. In general, filament yarns composed of extra-fine or extra-fine yarns have poor spreadability in air jet processing, and it is difficult to form a large amount of loop fluff on the surface of the yarn. Particularly, when the single yarn fineness is 0.8 denier or less, it is difficult to form a good loop. The present inventors have conducted intensive studies in view of solving the above problems, and found that a large number of loops were formed by entanglement treatment using a composite yarn having a relatively large single-filament fineness composed of a plurality of components having different solubility in alkali. After that, it was found that by performing an alkali dissolution treatment, it was found that a good loop yarn in the form of ultrafine yarn could be obtained, and the present invention was completed.

[Means for Solving the Problems]

That is, according to the present invention, a polyester-based multifilament yarn comprising a polyester component having low alkali solubility and a polyester component having high alkali solubility is subjected to fluid treatment to form loop fluff, and then this yarn is used. After weaving, the polyester component having high alkali solubility is dissolved by alkali treatment to divide the polyester component having low alkali solubility, and the fineness of each split filament is reduced to 0.5 denier or less.
The present invention further provides a method for producing a spun-tone woven fabric, which is characterized by performing a raising process. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The present invention comprises a polyester component having a low alkali solubility (hereinafter referred to as a component A) and a polyester component having a high alkali solubility (hereinafter referred to as a component B). After the alkali treatment, the fineness of each single filament becomes 0.5 denier or less. A polyester-based multifilament yarn composed of a single yarn having a cross-sectional shape that is divided into a plurality of components is subjected to a fluid treatment to form a loop fluff. As for the cross-sectional shape of the yarn to be subjected to the fluid treatment, the B component is removed by the alkali treatment, and the fineness of each of the A components is 0.1%.
Any shape can be used as long as it is divided into a plurality of single yarns of 5 denier or less. In the present invention, the reason that the fineness of each yarn must be 0.5 denier or less is to improve the softness, sliminess and cleaning power of the fabric, and to limit the tendency to raise the brush easily. It is. This shape will be described with reference to the drawings. FIGS. 2, 3 and 4 are cross-sectional views illustrating the cross-sectional shape of a polyester multifilament single yarn having different alkali solubility in the method of the present invention. B indicates a polyester component having a large alkali solubility. In the present invention, for example, the sectional shape before division such as the hollow hollow type shown in FIGS. 2 and 3 or the hollow petal type shown in FIG. 4 may be freely selected. 2 to 4, in the single yarn of the supply yarn, the component A and the component B are single yarns in which the component B is dissolved and removed by alkali treatment, and the component A is divided into a plurality of pieces. Any combination of these may be used. For example, it is preferable to use a modified polyethylene terephthalate containing at least 95% by mole of polyethylene terephthalate as the component A and 10 to 40% by weight of polyethylene glycol and 1 to 5% by mole of sulfoisophthalic acid as the component B. The weight ratio of the component A and the component B of the yarn supplied in the present invention is not particularly limited.
Preferably, the ratio is 0:30 to 95: 5. It is easy to divide the component A by alkali treatment, and the amount of the component B removed by dissolution in an alkaline solution is small, economical and impairs the texture of the fabric. A remarkable effect is obtained, such as no inconvenience. In the present invention, the yarn is subjected to fluid treatment before the alkali treatment, that is, before the division of the composite yarn. FIG. 1 is a side view showing one example of a fluid treatment yarn in the method of the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, it is necessary to form an entangled portion having a large space 1 and a loop fluff 2 in the yarn in the longitudinal direction. The space between the filaments can be maintained even after the fabric has been formed by entanglement and the formation of loop fluff due to the fluid treatment. Therefore, during alkali treatment, the alkaline aqueous solution permeates between the individual yarns very easily, and the B component is uniform and fast. Can be dissolved. As a result, the component A can be easily divided into ultra-fine yarns having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less. The amount of loop formation is preferably 30 to 300 / m loop fluff index in order to maintain good processability and obtain a span-like texture. The loop fluff index used here is a gauge using a commercially available F-index tester manufactured by Shikishima Spinning Co., Ltd.
The count number when measured at 0.3 mm. In the present invention, the yarn obtained by the fluid treatment is woven using a warp, a weft, or a warp. When other yarns are used at the time of weaving, it is desirable to use a polyester yarn having the same dyeability as that of the component A. The yarn obtained by the fluid treatment may be woven as it is, but in order to improve the drape of the resulting woven fabric and to improve the tension, the woven fabric may be woven with a medium twist or a strong twist. . The woven fabric obtained as described above is alkali-treated and B
The component (A) is dissolved, and the component (A) is divided into a plurality of single yarns having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less. The alkali treatment of the present invention uses, for example, an alkaline aqueous solution of 1 to 10 g /
As in the case of ordinary polyester fabrics, after the desizing-refining-intermediate setting, the coating is performed continuously or in a batch mode. Further, a brushed fabric can be obtained by raising the alkali-treated fabric surface with a side paper or a needle cloth. The woven fabric according to the present invention has a very good napping property, and can add a texture with a very excellent hair growth tone. A so-called emery brushing method using a sandpaper or the like that uses a sandpaper or the like, which has a small reduction in the strength of the cloth even with a thin woven fabric and is capable of dense brushing, is preferred as a brushing method.

[Action]

The present invention relates to a polyester-based multifilament yarn composed of a plurality of polyester components having different alkali-solubility components A and B, which is woven using a yarn obtained by performing a fluid treatment on the multifilament yarn, and then alkali-woven. The yarn constituting the woven fabric obtained by dissolving and removing the component B by the treatment is A
It is formed of only the components, which facilitates deep color dyeing and solid color dyeing. In addition, since the space between the filaments is large in the longitudinal direction of the yarn due to the fluid treatment and confounding is imparted evenly, the obtained yarn can be used as it is, or even after being twisted into a medium to strong twist, it becomes a filament. The space between them is maintained, so that during the alkali treatment, the aqueous alkali solution uniformly penetrates into each single yarn, and the A component can be easily divided into ultra-fine yarns having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less without unevenness. The resulting woven fabric has a swelling and a soft and warm feeling of span tone due to the fact that it is an ultra-fine yarn and the space between the single yarns formed in the yarn by the fluid treatment and the presence of loop fluff. In addition, the woven fabric that has been brushed after the alkali treatment is covered with the cut hairs of ultra-fine yarns, so that the slimy feeling is emphasized and a hair-like texture can be imparted.

【Example】

Next, the method of the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. (Example 1) The cross section of a single yarn is an annular hollow eight-segment type shown in FIG. 2, in which A component is polyethylene terephthalate consisting of only polyethylene terephthalate unit, B component is 28% by weight of polyethylene glycol and sulfoisophthalate. A modified polyethylene terephthalate containing 2 mol% of an acid, and a 75 denier / 48 filament polysell-based multifilament having a weight ratio of the A component and the B component of 80:20 is supplied to the entanglement treatment area, and a known fluid nozzle (for example, Kosho 60-22093
A yarn having a loop fluff index of 210 / m was obtained using the above-described method. The obtained yarn is used for the weft as it is, and the polyester filament of the 75-denier / 72-filament bright filament whose cross section is 断面 -shaped is used for the warp, and the warp is 60 / four /
Whale, weft weft 95 / inch density, weaving with 2/2 twill standard,
Caustic soda 10g / Sun Mall FL manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.
Using an alkaline solution containing 1 g / l, desizing and scouring were performed at 90 ° C for 20 min. Alkali weight loss rate is 23%
Met. When the weft was extracted from the woven fabric after the alkali treatment and observed with a microscope, the B component was dissolved and removed, and a large number of ultra-fine filaments having an irregular cross section composed of the A component were observed. The average value was 0.12 denier as a result of measuring 50 single yarn finenesses of this ultrafine yarn. After the alkali-reduced fabric was preset at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds, the surface was brushed three times using # 240 sandpaper, and then dyed under the following conditions. Dye: Sumikaron Blue SE-R manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.
PD dye concentration: 3% owf Auxiliary agent: 0.5 g / Sun Salt RZ-8 manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.
And 48% acetic acid in 0.2 cc / bath ratio: 1 to 100 Dyeing temperature: 135 ° C Dyeing time: 30 minutes After dyeing, 5 g of Bisnol P-70 manufactured by Sharp Corporation was used.
After performing reduction washing at 80 ° C for 20 minutes using the above solution, drying and final finishing at 170 ° C for 30 seconds (final set)
Was performed. The resulting woven fabric was plain, had a beautiful hue, drapeability, was soft and warm, and had a good texture with a span tone with a touch of hairy production added due to the presence of a large number of short cut fluffs.

【The invention's effect】

The method for producing a spun-tone woven fabric of the present invention has the above-described structure, so that it is easy to perform dark color dyeing and solid color dyeing despite the use of splittable composite yarns, and that the drapability and the filament that can be divided evenly. A spun-tone fabric having a soft and warm texture can be easily and stably manufactured. Further, the woven fabric according to the present invention has a very good napping property, and can add a texture with a much better hair growth tone.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a side view showing one example of a fluid treatment yarn in the method of the present invention, wherein 1 indicates a space and 2 indicates a loop fluff. FIGS. 2, 3 and 4 are cross-sectional views illustrating the cross-sectional shape of a polyester multifilament single yarn having different alkali solubility in the method of the present invention. B indicates a polyester component having a large alkali solubility.

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Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A polyester-based multifilament yarn comprising a polyester component having a low alkali solubility and a polyester component having a high alkali solubility is subjected to fluid treatment to form loop fluff, and then woven using the yarn. After that, the polyester component with high alkali solubility is dissolved by alkali treatment to divide the polyester component with low alkali solubility, and the fineness of each filament after splitting is set to 0.5 denier or less, and further brushed. A method for producing a spun-tone fabric.