JP2963830B2 - Latent micro-crimped polyester thick mottled yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to polyester thick and thin mottled yarns and fabrics made therefrom. In detail, the present invention relates to a multifilament yarn composed of polyester multifilaments having large and thin spots, and when dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, three colors or more in a random and fine fuzzy state in a short cycle. And a high-quality latent micro-crimpable polyester thick and thin yarn having a swelling feel of a natural, non-artificial, wool-like yarn and a fabric comprising the yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester multifilament yarns are characterized by a high degree of uniformity, but when turned upside down, they have little change and have an artificial coldness. When dyed, the color tone is monotonous. In many cases, attempts have been made to improve such disadvantages by imparting a different-color heather-like state to the polyester multifilament yarn, since the polyester multifilament yarn tends to be inferior and has a poor feeling.

[0003] Conventional polyester multifilament yarns of different heather-like shape include: (1) ordinary polyester filaments made of polyethylene terephthalate or the like, which are provided with thick and thin spots in the length direction to form thick and thin spot yarns; It is known that a composite yarn is obtained by blending a polyester filament having a large and small spot of disperse dye and a polyester filament having a large and small spot of cationic dye. A mixed yarn of a highly oriented polyester unstretched yarn that is immiscible with a hydrophilic dye and a highly oriented polyester unstretched yarn that is dyeable with a low birefringence is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment, then cold-drawn, and then false twisted. There has been proposed a method for producing a polychromatic polyester yarn having large and thin spots and different phases (JP-A-63-35843).

However, since the yarn of the above (1) is composed of only ordinary polyester filaments such as polyethylene terephthalate, the heather expression is basically limited to a shade expression within the same hue or an approximate hue. However, it is impossible to express heathers with completely different hues, resulting in a monotonous color tone, and lacking in swelling and the like, and the texture cannot be said to be sufficiently good. Further, the yarn of the above (2) is capable of expressing heats with different hues, but it is at most two colors and does not have more than three colors, and the heats expression is extremely long and regular. Therefore, it lacks naturalness and luxury.

[0005] In the case of the processed yarn obtained by the method (3), multicolor expression is possible. The arrangement and distribution state of the disperse dye dyeing portions are simple, they are not finely and randomly distributed, and unnaturalness remains in the dyed fabric, and a high-quality dyed product is not obtained. Further, in the method (3), since the yarn is crimped by false twisting, the crimped state is monotonous and excessive, so that the yarn cannot be given a fuzzy luxury feeling. There is a drawback that the dry feeling peculiar to the thick and thin plaque is impaired due to the rubbing, resulting in a slimy feeling.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to be able to express multicolor heathers of three or more colors, and to express the multicolor heather finely in an extremely short cycle without being too strong or too weak. Further, it is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester thick mottled yarn which has a natural color tone and appearance which is randomly distributed fuzzy throughout, has a natural wool-like natural swelling feeling, and has an excellent texture, and a fabric comprising the same. .

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have repeatedly studied to solve the above problems. As a result, very finely and and random cationic dye dyeable polyester filaments with FutoshiHoso plaques randomly polyester filament group and the length direction of the disperse dye-dyeable with FutoshiHoso plaques fine lengthwise Combined with a group to form a multifilament yarn , especially when the average single fiber denier differs from each other.
The disperse dye-dyeable polyester having the above-mentioned thick spots
Cationic dyeing with terfilaments and the above-mentioned thick spots
Combined with dyeable polyester filament group
The present invention was completed by finding that when a denier mix multifilament yarn was used to produce a fabric from the yarn, a yarn and a fabric having the above excellent properties were obtained.

That is, the present invention provides an average single fiber denier
Le consists cationic dye dyeable polyester filament group having a FutoshiHoso plaques disperse dye-dyeable polyester filament group and the length direction with FutoshiHoso plaques in the longitudinal direction are different from each other latent fine crimpable polyester thick A fine mottled yarn which, when dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, has a maximum of 1 at any one point along the length of the yarn.
dyed in three or more colors within the length of 1 cm
A latent micro-crimpable polyester thick and small mottled yarn having a crimpability of 0% or less, and a fabric comprising the latent micro-crimpable polyester thick and small mottled yarn.

The latently crimped polyester thick and thin plaque (hereinafter simply referred to as “polyester thick and thin plaque”) of the present invention will be described. As described above, the polyester plaque of the present invention is a disperse dyeable plaque polyester filament (hereinafter, referred to as a “dispersible dyeable plaque filament”),
Multifilament yarn in combination with cationic dyeable dyeable polyester filament (hereinafter referred to as "cationically dyeable dyeable filament"), the disperse dyeable dyeable filament and the cationic dye dyeable dye constituting the yarn Both filaments have thick spots in the length direction. The term “dispersible dyeability” in the present invention means that the cationic dye is immiscible and can be dyed with a disperse dye.

[0010] Further, the polyester filamentous filament of the present invention is
"When dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, it is dyed in three or more colors within a maximum length of 1 cm at any one point along the length direction of the yarn" It has a great feature in that This characteristic will be described with reference to FIG. 1. When observed with reference to the point P, along the length direction of the yarn, the arbitrary point P and the upstream or downstream side along the length direction within a range of at most 1 cm from the arbitrary point P. Within the range (distance) (A ') or (A'') from the point P' or P '', the yarn is dyed in three or more colors. This means that P is always satisfied no matter where the P is taken.

In order to impart a fine, random and natural high-grade multi-color heather to the polyester thick and thin mottled yarn of the present invention and the fabric obtained therefrom, when dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, It is preferable that any one point along the length of the yarn is always dyed in three or more colors within a length of 5 mm or less. It is even more preferable that, within the range of 1 mm to 1 cm in length, four or more colors can always be dyed in a state where the filaments are out of phase with each other.

[0012] The polyester filamentous filament yarn of the present invention further has the property of "having a latent micro-crimpability of 10% or less". Bulky feeling (swelling feeling),
It has an excellent feeling with a firm feeling. In this case, the latent fine crimpability of the polyester thick plaque is preferably 2 to 8% in order to further improve the wool-like bulkiness and tightness. On the other hand, if the latent micro-crimpability exceeds 10%, the feeling of bulkiness becomes excessive and a natural wool-like feeling cannot be obtained. Here, the term “latent micro-crimpability” as used in the present invention refers to a yarn that does not have crimpability but is capable of developing crimp by heat treatment, and has a crimpability K determined by the following method. It means that the value is 10% or less.

Measurement method of crimpability K (%) : 10,000 deniers are collected from the yarn at a skewing of 1 m per round. Next, this sample is immersed in hot water at 100 ° C. without load and subjected to hot water treatment without stirring for 10 minutes. After treatment, take out from hot water, 6
Heat and dry with hot air at 0 ° C until it becomes the same as the original weight,
Five minutes later, a load of 5 g is applied, and the skein length (L ₁ ) at this time is measured. Next, a load of 1000 g is applied to the skein, the skein length (L ₂ ) after 30 seconds is measured, and the crimpability K (%) is obtained from the following mathematical formula 1.

[0014]

## EQU1 ## Crimpability K (%) = { (L ₂ −L ₁ ) / L ₂ } × 100

[0015] The polyester thick and thin mottled yarn of the present invention having the above-mentioned properties is generally a drawn yarn obtained by performing a drawing treatment, but has the latent micro-crimpability described above despite being a drawn yarn. In addition, since the thick and thin spots are randomly displaced from each other between the filaments and are finely dispersed, there is almost no converging portion where only a specific portion of the yarn becomes extremely thick or thin. As a result, when the crimped state is developed, fine crimps are usually randomly displaced between filaments at a crimp number of about 1 to 50 pieces / inch, and a wool-like A fine and natural feeling of swelling is obtained.

In the present invention, a polyester thick plaque having the above-mentioned properties and a fabric comprising the same, and a dyed product obtained by dyeing them with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, and in some cases, one of the disperse dye and the cationic dye And dyed materials stained with.

Further, the polyester thick plaque yarn having the above-mentioned specific multi-hue characteristics and latent micro-crimpability and a fabric comprising the yarn are all included in the scope of the present invention, and the dispersible dyeable yarn constituting the yarn is included in the present invention. The type of fine spot filaments and cationic dyeable large spot filaments, the method of producing yarn or fabric, the dyeing method and the like are not particularly limited, but the polyester flat spot threads of the present invention having the above-mentioned properties are typically represented by the following: A smooth combination can be obtained by such a combination of filaments.

[0018] Polyester FutoshiHoso plaques yarn of the present invention, denier having different average variance friendly SomeFutoshiHoso plaques filament groups constituting the yarn an average single fiber denier of single fiber denier and cationic friendly SomeFutoshiHoso plaques filament group together a mix thick Hosomadara multifilament yarn, the yarn becomes thereby that the length of the thick portion and the details of each filament are different from each other fine with a distributable SomeFutoshiHoso plaques filament and cationic friendly SomeFutoshiHoso plaques filaments To give a finer and more random three or more hues when dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, and to give the yarn a latent fine crimpability of 10% or less. can do. In addition, the presence of thick denier filaments can impart tension to the yarn.

In this case, the dispersible dyeable lamellar filaments may be referred to as fine denier filaments, and the cationic dyeable lamellar filaments may be referred to as the thick denier filaments, or vice versa. The filament group may be a thick denier filament group and the cationic dyeable thick and fine spot filament group may be a fine denier group. In general, the cationic dyeable large and thin spot filaments have a higher shrinkage rate, and the shrinkage tends to increase as the filament becomes thicker. It is preferred that the thick and fine spot filaments be fine denier filaments because the yarns can be imparted with latent micro-crimpability satisfactorily and a yarn having a wool-like bulkiness and feeling can be obtained smoothly.

Further, the denier mix as described above
Polyester thick of the present invention comprising multifilament yarn
In the fine mottled yarn, the average single fiber denier of the thick denier filament group is 4.5 d or less, preferably about 2.5 to 4.0, and the average single fiber denier of the fine denier filament group is 1.5 d or less, preferably about It is preferable to set it to 0.5 to 1.5 d from the viewpoint of smoothly obtaining polyester thick and thin plaques satisfying the requirements of the present invention.

In the present invention, the ratio of the dispersible dyeable filamentous filament group to the cationic dyeable filamentous filament group in one polyester filamentous filament is not limited to 40% by weight. : About 60 to 70:30. In particular, when the polyester thick and thin plaques of the present invention are formed from the above-mentioned fine denier filaments and thick denier filaments, the ratio of the fine denier filaments to the yarn is preferably 50% by weight or more. It is necessary for imparting a random thick and thin cycle to the filament. In addition, the total number of filaments per polyester thick and thin yarn is set to about 10 to 200 f. This is because fiberization processability at the time of spinning, subsequent workability, handleability at the time of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric, etc. Preferred from the point.

When the polyester thick and thin mottled yarn of the present invention is dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, three colors within a maximum length of 1 cm at any one point along the length direction of the yarn. In order to be dyed in the above colors, the length of the thick part and / or the length dimension of the fine and fine spots in the thick and fine spot filaments constituting the yarn and the appearance of the thick and thin spots are important. In any one or both of the dyed and thin spot filaments and the cationic dyeable and thick spot filaments, the length of one thick portion is in the order of mm, preferably 5 mm or less, more preferably 1 mm or less, and It is necessary that the thick spots are random in the length direction of the yarn.

At this time, in both the dispersible dyeable lamina filament and the cationic dyeable lamina filament,
The length of the thick part is the above-mentioned mm order, preferably 5 mm.
mm or less, more preferably 1 mm or less, but it is not necessary that both filaments be so, and any one of the dispersible dyeable plaque filament and the cationic dyeable plaque filament It is sufficient that the length of the thick portion of only one filament is on the order of mm. In particular, among the dispersible dyeable filamentous filaments and the cationic dyeable filamentous filaments constituting the polyester filamentous filament, the length of at least the thick part of the dispersible dyeable filamentous filament is several μm to 5 mm.
The length and the details are within 1cm even if the length is random along the length of the yarn when viewed in any one cross-section of the polyester thick and thin mottled yarn. It is desirable that the yarns are always mixed in order to impart the above-mentioned multicolor dyeing properties of three or more colors and latent fine crimpability to the yarn.

In addition, although not limited, in the above case, the total length of one thick portion and one adjacent detail in the thick and thin spot filament is 10 cm or less, preferably 5 cm or less. It is more preferably 1 cm or less in order to impart the fine and random multicolored state and the latent micro-crimpability to the yarn as described above.

In the polyester thick and thin speckles of the present invention,
The polyester constituting the dispersible dyeable thick and thin spot filaments is insoluble in cationic dyes, and any fiber-forming polyester capable of being dyed with a disperse dye is not particularly limited, and polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, Alternatively, a filament obtained from a copolyester containing an ethylene terephthalate unit and / or a butylene terephthalate unit as a main constituent unit and containing a small amount of another copolymer unit is preferable.
In the above, when the dispersible dyeable fine spot filament is formed from a copolyester mainly containing ethylene terephthalate units and / or butylene terephthalate units, isophthalic acid, phthalic acid,
Aromatic carboxylic acid components such as 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, oxalic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, aliphatic carboxylic acid components such as sebacic acid, trimellitic acid, and polyfunctional carboxylic acid components such as pyromellitic acid; Diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol or ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol,
Units derived from glycerin, pentaerythritol and the like can be included.

The disperse-dyeable fine filament filament is produced by adding 2.5 to 10% by weight of fine particles having an average particle size of 1.0 μm or less in the disperse-dye-dyeable polyester as described above. Is good, and in that case, as fine particles,
Barium sulfate, silica, calcium carbonate, magnesium oxide, alumina, titanium oxide and the like,
Among them, barium sulfate or silica is preferable because it can impart a fine and random diversified thick and thin spot period to the filament.

If the average particle size of the fine particles contained in the dispersible dyeable filamentous filaments exceeds 1.0 μm, the spinnability becomes extremely poor. On the other hand, if the average particle size is less than 0.05 μm, voids are generated in the filament during drawing. This makes it difficult for random fluctuation of the stretching point to occur, so that fine and random thick spots with a random period are hardly generated. From the viewpoint of spinnability and the occurrence of fine random spots, the average particle size is 0.02 to 0.02.
It is particularly preferable to use 0.8 μm fine particles. When the content of the fine particles in the dispersible dyeable filamentous filament is less than 2.5% by weight, the filamentous filament does not randomly appear in the filament constituting the yarn in a short cycle.
If the content is more than 10% by weight, the spinnability will be reduced and the operability will be poor, which is not preferable. The content of the fine particles in the dispersible dyeable large fine filament filaments is more preferably 3 to 9% by weight.

In the polyester filamentous filament of the present invention, the polyester constituting the cationic dyeable filamentous filament is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester dyeable with a cationic dye. There is no particular limitation. Among them, isophthalic acid units in which a sulfonic acid metal base is bonded to a benzene nucleus, that is, it is preferable to use a copolymerized polyester having a sulfonate isophthalic acid unit as a copolymerized unit, in which case the sulfonate isophthalic acid unit in the polyester is preferably used. When the copolymerization ratio is 1 to 3 mol%, the processability, dyeing properties, general physical properties, and the like during spinning are improved, which is desirable.

When a polyester containing a sulfonate isophthalic acid unit is used for a cationically dyeable filamentous filament, the main unit constituting the polyester is composed of an ethylene terephthalate unit, a butylene terephthalate unit, or a combination thereof. Is preferable, and if necessary, a small amount of other copolymerized units may be contained together with these units. And such other copolymerized units are isophthalic acid, phthalic acid,
Aromatic carboxylic acid components such as 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, oxalic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, aliphatic carboxylic acid components such as sebacic acid, trimellitic acid, and polyfunctional carboxylic acid components such as pyromellitic acid; Diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol or ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol,
Examples include units derived from glycerin, pentaerythritol, and the like.

The cationic dyeable filamentous filaments have an average particle size of 1.0 μm or less, preferably 0.02 to 0.8 μm, if necessary.
Cations having fine thick spots which are randomly present in the length direction of the filament within the range of several μm to 5 mm in the length of one thick part. A dyeable thick filament is obtained, and the above-mentioned fine and random polychromaticity of three or more colors can be more smoothly imparted to the polyester thick filament. In this case, as the fine particles, the same fine particles as those described for the dispersible dyeable large fine filament filaments can be used.

It is not clear why the polyester thick and thin filaments of the present invention have the above-mentioned fine multicolor state of three or more colors and latent crimpability. The occurrence of fine and random thick and small spots, the occurrence of fine and random thick and thin spots on cationic dyeable polyester filaments, the fine phase shift of thick and thin spots between each filament, and the difference in dyeability are synergistic. It is presumed to be due to the action on

The polyester thick and thin mottled yarns of the present invention and a fabric comprising the same can be distributed and sold without dyeing or dyed. In the case of dyeing, it can be dyed in the state of a thread or after forming into a fabric, or after fabricating a textile product such as clothing from the fabric. Dyeing is preferred from the viewpoint of processability, equipment, economy and the like. The type of dye used for dyeing, the dyeing method, the dyeing conditions, equipment, etc. are not particularly limited, and known dyes, methods, conditions, equipment, and the like conventionally used for polyester fibers can be used. In the case of dyeing using both a disperse dye and a cationic dye, the selection of the disperse dye and the dyeing conditions are important for producing a fine multi-hue state.

When the polyester thick mottled yarn of the present invention or a fabric comprising the same is dyed, particularly with both a disperse dye and a cationic dye, a maximum length of 1 cm at any one point along the length of the yarn is obtained. It is dyed in three or more colors within the range. When dyeing is carried out using both a disperse dye and a cationic dye, both dyes may be contained in the same dye bath or in separate dye baths. In particular, when both dyes are contained in the same dye bath and the dyeing temperature is changed in multiple stages to a temperature suitable for each of the disperse dyeing and the cationic dyeing and dyeing is performed, both dyeing can be performed in one dyeing bath. It is convenient.

Further, if necessary, fine cut fluff may be generated in the polyester thick plaque of the present invention and the cloth comprising the same, and in particular, the polyester thick plaque of the present invention or the cloth comprising the same When alkali weight loss or alkali weight loss and rubbing treatment are applied to the water, 500 pieces / m
It is possible to obtain a yarn or fabric having the above-mentioned extremely fine fluff. In the polyester thick and thin speckles of the present invention,
As described above, the thick and thin spots are present in a very fine random and phase-shifted manner between filaments, and the thick and thin boundaries of each filament are easily eroded by alkali. Since the fluff is generated randomly, a large number of fine and random fluff can appear throughout the yarn or the fabric, thereby giving the yarn and the fabric a natural swelling feeling more similar to wool. Can be applied, and furthermore, only a specific portion of the yarn and the fabric is not extremely eroded by the alkali, so that a phenomenon such as a drastic decrease in strength, cutting of the yarn at a specific portion, or perforation in the fabric is caused. Does not occur.

On the other hand, the phase of the thick and fine spots is not shifted between the filaments constituting the yarn, the thick and thin spots are aligned in the horizontal direction of the yarn, and the cycle of the thick and thin spots is large. In yarns and fabrics made from such yarns, only a specific portion of the yarn is eroded by the alkali treatment, cutting of the yarn at that portion, perforation in the fabric, etc., resulting in a significant decrease in quality, In addition, a large number of fine fluffs cannot be generated, and from such a point, the polyester thick mottled yarn of the present invention and the fabric comprising the same have excellent properties.

Alkali treatment for generating fuzz on a polyester thick or thin plaque or a fabric made of the same includes strong alkaline substances such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and trisodium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, and the like. The treatment can be performed using a treatment liquid containing a weakly alkaline substance such as sodium silicate and sodium dihydrogen phosphate. The concentration of the alkaline substance in the treatment liquid may be appropriately adjusted depending on the type of the alkaline substance, the content of the polyester thick and thin plaque to be treated, the content of the cloth, and the like. Usually, the temperature of the alkaline treatment liquid is about 80 to 120 ° C. The generation of fluff is performed so that the weight loss rate is about 2 to 20%,
It is preferable from the viewpoint of maintaining strength and feeling. In addition, although not limited, it is preferable that the kneading treatment is usually performed by a method using a washer relaxing or a method using a high-temperature and high-pressure liquid flow relaxing. Alkali treatment and rubbing treatment
It is preferably performed before dyeing the yarn or fabric.

Before the generation of fluff on the polyester thick and thin mottled yarn by alkali treatment, about 1000
Twist / m or less, preferably 400 to 800 turns / m, is preferable because the filament can be prevented from coming off from the yarn and the fluff can be fixed. The alkali treatment may be performed at the same time as the scouring and desizing of the cloth or the like, or may be performed before and after the scouring and desizing. When the scrubbing and the desizing are performed at the same time, the number of processing steps can be reduced. The alkali treatment may be performed in a static state. However, if the alkali treatment is caused to collide with the yarn, the cloth, or the like, or if the alkali treatment is performed while the alkali-treated liquid or the treated polyester fine mottling or cloth is stirred, the fluff is cut off. Can be generated more quickly, and such an alkali treatment can be performed using, for example, a high-pressure liquid flow type apparatus or a high-pressure washer apparatus.

When the alkali treatment is carried out in the presence of a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant or the like, the swelling and softening of the polyester fine plaque and the penetration of alkali into the fiber are promoted. Swiftly, a good swelling feeling is imparted to the entire yarn or fabric, and the adhesive agent or the like that has fallen off from the yarn or fabric can be prevented from reattaching. Examples of the nonionic surfactant include polyoxyethylene polyhydric alcohol alkyl esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyethylene glycol alkyl esters, and the like. Examples of the anionic surfactant include soap and higher alcohol-based surfactants. Surfactants and the like can be mentioned.

The method for producing the polyester thick and thin mottled yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and when dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, the fine multicolored state of three or more colors and the latent fine crimpability described above are obtained. It may be produced by any method as long as it has the polyester thick and thin speckles. In general, a disperse dyeable polyester fiber containing the fine particles described above and a disperse dye dyeable polyester filament using a cationic dye dyeable fiber-forming polyester and a cationic dye dyeable polyester fiber. It can be obtained by producing a polyester multifilament yarn in which polyester filaments are mixed and unevenly stretching it at a low stretching ratio. Examples of preferred production methods are as follows.

Example of the production of the polyester thick and thin mottled yarn of the present invention : (1) Two liquids using a spinning apparatus having a split type die with different numbers of holes and hole diameters on the left and right as shown in FIG. 2, for example. Spin. The spinning speed at that time is 1500 to 25
00m / min, preferably 1800-2200m
/ Min is more preferred. If the spinning speed is less than 1500 m / min, the strength of the yarn or fabric will be insufficient, while 25
If it exceeds 00 m / min, the occurrence of thick and thin spots after stretching becomes poor, and it becomes difficult to obtain the desired thick and thin spot yarn. Many conventional filamentous filaments are 150
Although a spinning speed of 0 m / min or less has been employed, in the present invention, the target polyester thick and thin mottled yarn can be obtained by adopting a high spinning speed of 1500 m / min or more, and the production speed is lower than that of the prior art. High in nature.

In spinning, a dye-dispersible polyester containing fine particles is spun from the base with a large number of holes on the right side of FIG. 2 and the base with a small number of holes on the left side of FIG. The cationic dye-dyeable polyester may be spun out, or vice versa, but in general, the disperse dye-dyeable polyester containing fine particles is spun out from the die portion having a large number of pores, and the cationic dye-dyeable polyester is spun. It is preferable to produce a denier mix filament yarn composed of fine denier filaments of disperse dye-dyeable polyester and thick denier filaments of cationic dye-dyeable polyester by spinning from a die having a small number of holes. At this time, the fine particles contained in the disperse dye-dyeable polyester have an average particle size of 1.0 μm or less, preferably 0.02 to 0.8 as described above.
It is preferable to use a resin having a particle size of 2.5 μm, and its compounding amount is 2.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 3 to 9% by weight.

When spinning, the coefficient of friction is adjusted so that the stretching points of the filaments are dispersed and dispersed (so that the dispersion stretching is performed) during the stretching process described in (3) below. In particular, it is desirable to use an oil agent having a low FF dynamic friction coefficient), and the amount of the oil agent applied at that time is preferably 0.8% by weight or more. If the amount of oil is less than 0.8% by weight,
The thick and thin cycle of each filament is likely to be long, and it is difficult to obtain plaques in which thick and fine spots are finely dispersed.

(2) Although the production efficiency is somewhat inferior, instead of the direct spinning of the above (1), the disperse dye dyeable polyester filament containing fine particles and the cationic dye dyeable polyester filament are separately spun. And the filaments may be combined (mixed) to produce a denier mix polyester multifilament yarn.

(3) Next, the denier-mixed polyester multifilament yarn obtained by the above (1) or (2) is preheated at a low temperature, stretched, and then heat-set to obtain a desired polyester fiber of the present invention. Manufactures fine plaques. In this stretching treatment, preheating is preferably performed at a temperature of about 35 to 55 ° C. If the preheating temperature is lower than 35 ° C, seasonal fluctuation of large and thin spots tends to occur. The period of the thick spot becomes longer,
In addition, the mottling becomes less stable. The higher the heat setting temperature after stretching, the lower the elongation is, but at the same time the strength of the yarn is reduced.
It is preferable to set the temperature to about the same level in view of the balance between elongation and strength. Further, the stretching ratio is represented by the following mathematical formula 2;

[0045]

## EQU2 ## Stretching ratio = {(D / 100) +1} × (0.5-0.6) In the formula, it is preferable that D is satisfied so that the breaking elongation of the polyester multifilament yarn is satisfied.

The polyester thick and thin mottled yarn of the present invention obtained as described above may be subjected to interlacing or taslan processing by air entanglement or other methods, if necessary, to be used as a processed yarn. . The polyester thick plaque of the present invention can be made into various woven or knitted fabrics or nonwoven fabrics, similarly to ordinary polyester multifilament yarn, and is particularly suitable for woven or knitted fabric for clothing. The woven or knitted fabric produced from the polyester thick and thin yarn of the present invention, when dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, is dyed in the fine and random polyhedral state of three or more colors, and the color tone is extremely natural. It has a natural heather-like appearance and is extremely fine and has a crimped shape that is randomly dispersed, so that it has a natural wool-like swelling feeling and a high-grade appearance and feeling.

[0047]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In the following examples, the average single fiber denier of the fine denier filament group and the thick denier filament group, the length of the thick portion in the thick and thin spot filament, the measurement of the total length of the detail length and the adjacent thick portion and detail, after alkali treatment The measurement of the number of cut hairs and the confirmation of the number of colors after dyeing were performed as follows.

Average single fiber denier of each filament group :
At least 100 m or more of each multifilament group was collected, and the total denier was divided by the number of filaments to obtain an average single fiber denier.

Thick length and sum of adjacent thick and detail
Length : 20 cm of the obtained thick and fine plaque is collected, and the filaments constituting the yarn are divided into a thick denier filament group and a fine denier filament group. Take a photomicrograph (100-500 times) of the thick denier filament, measure the length of the thick part and the length of the adjacent detail from the photograph, and calculate the length of the thick part and the total of the adjacent thick part and detail. Find the length. The same applies to fine denier filaments. If the thick and thin spots in the filament gradually transition from the thick part to the fine part or from the fine part to the thick part and there is no clear boundary, the intermediate point is measured as the boundary.

Number of cut fluff : An arbitrary 10 cm of polyester thick plaques (in the case of fabric, unwound from fabric) after alkali weight reduction treatment is sampled, and the fluff is determined by a 30 to 50-fold microphotograph. Read the number of
Repeat (n = 10) to determine the average number of fluff. This average number of fluff is multiplied by 10 to obtain the number of fluff per m.

Confirmation of the number of colors : The yarn is unwound from the dyed cloth, a color photograph of a microscope (100 to 500 times) is taken, and the number of colors is visually determined.

Example 1 (1) 8% by weight of barium sulfate having an average particle size of 0.6 μm
Polyethylene terephthalate having [η] = 0.65 and 1.7 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid containing 8% by weight of barium sulfate having an average particle diameter of 0.6 μm.
The copolymerized ethylene terephthalate copolymer of [η] = 0.65 was mixed with a spinneret of right and left sides of a split die (36 holes on the right side: 12 holes on the left side) as shown in FIG. (Right: left side) The spinning speed is 1800 m / min and the spinning speed is 1800 m / min. Polyester filament group (dispersible dye dyeable polyester filament group)
4d / 12f 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerized polyester filament group (cation dye dyeable polyester filament group) and polyester denier mix multifilament undrawn yarn (18)
5d / 48f) was obtained.

(2) Next, after pre-heating the undrawn yarn obtained in the above (1) at a hot roller temperature of 38 ° C., a drawing ratio of 1.
The film was drawn at 85 times, hot-set at a hot roller temperature of 120 ° C., and wound to obtain a 100d / 48f denier mix polyester thick spot drawn yarn having an elongation of 65%.

(3) The average single fiber denier of the fine denier filament group (dispersible dyeable thick fine filament group) and the thick denier filament group (cationically dyeable thick thin fiber) of the polyester thick fine drawn yarn obtained in the above (2) The average single fiber denier of the plaque filament group) was measured by the above method, and was 1.7d and 3.3d, respectively. (4) Further, the length of the thick part in the group of fine denier filaments in the polyester thick and thin spot drawn yarn obtained in the above (2) is random in the range of 10 μm to 2 mm,
The total length of adjacent thick portions and details was random in the range of 40 μm to 10 cm. The length of the thick portion in the thick denier filament group is random within the range of 10 μm to 3 mm (the ratio of the thick portion exceeding 400 μm is about 10%), and the total length of the adjacent thick portion and details is 20 μm.
It was random in the range of m to 1 cm.

(5) In addition, the polyester thick and thin spot drawn yarn obtained in the above (2) is knitted in a tube, dyed with a cationic dye, unwound, cut at 1 cm intervals, and subjected to a microscope for 100 sample filament pieces. As a result, it was confirmed that each of the fine denier filament group and the thick denier filament group was a thick and fine spot filament in which the thick portion and the detail were always mixed along the length direction. Furthermore, the value of the latent micro-crimpability (crimpability K) of the polyester thick and thin spot drawn yarn obtained in the above (2) was measured by the method described above, and was 6.5%. In the polyester thick and thin drawn yarn obtained in the above (2), each filament is well separated,
The number of crimps of each filament was 2 to 25 / inch, and the crimp state was random.

(6) Further, the drawn polyester fine and fine drawn yarn obtained in the above (2) is knitted in a cylinder with a 20 gauge knitting machine, sufficiently scoured, and put into a 1N caustic soda solution at 90 ° C. for 15% Was carried out to generate fluff. When the condition of the fluff was confirmed after the drying, the fluff was found to be averagely cut along the length direction of the yarn.
It was 100 pieces / m.

(7) The polyester thick and fine spot drawn yarn obtained in the above (2) is subjected to S twisting at 600 times / m, and
A plain woven fabric was woven at a density of 70 / inch and a weft of 70 / inch to obtain a greige fabric. The greige was dyed as follows using a dye bath having the composition shown in Table 1 below.

[0058]

[Table 1] Dyeing bath composition Dye : Dianix Poly Navy Blue RN-E (Mitsubishi Kasei Kogyo) (disperse dye) 3% owf Dianix Poly Navy Blue BG-FS (Mitsubishi Kasei Kogyo) (disperse dye) 1% owf Kayacryl Red BL (Nippon Kayaku) 2% owf auxiliary agent : Toho Salt (manufactured by Toho Chemical) (dispersant) 1 g / liter acetic acid 0.3 ml / liter Bath ratio = 1: 30

After putting the greige into the above-mentioned dyeing bath,
Increasing the bath temperature to 40-110 ° C at a rate of ° C / min;
Dyeing was performed for 20 minutes while maintaining 110 ° C., and then the bath temperature was increased to 135 ° C. at a rate of 2 ° C./min, and dyeing was performed for 15 minutes while maintaining 135 ° C. Then the temperature of the dyeing bath is 30
The mixture was cooled with the greige machine kept until the temperature reached ℃, then removed from the bath and washed with water. After water washing, reduction washing and drying were carried out by a conventional method, and final setting was performed at 160 ° C. The density of the obtained fabric was 121 warps / inch and 76 wefts / inch.

The dyed fabric obtained above had some hardness as a whole because it had not been subjected to alkali weight reduction, but had a wool-like feeling with a dry touch and swelling. Further, the color tone of the fabric as a whole is a multicolor heather-like compound color in which a deep and tasty blue-red-purple color is mixed and subtly mixed. Also, when one yarn unwound from the woven fabric is enlarged, an arbitrary point in the length direction of the yarn is determined, and observation is made in the length direction of the yarn within a maximum of 1 cm.
Three or more colors having a difference in color tone, such as blue, light blue, dark reddish purple, and purple, and a light and shade difference were always observed. This dyed product has a light fastness class of 4, a washing fastness (washing stain level) of 4 to 5,
In addition, the rub fastness was 4 or higher in both dry and wet conditions, and the quality was excellent.

[0061]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The polyester thick and thin mottled yarn and the fabric comprising the same have a multicolor heather color tone in which three or more colors are finely and randomly dispersed, and the multicolor heather expression is extremely low. It has a natural, deep and excellent color tone and appearance because it is finely distributed throughout without being too strong or too weak. Further, the polyester thick and thin yarn and fabric of the present invention have a wool-like natural swelling feeling by having a latent micro-crimpability of 10% or less. Further, the yarn and fabric of the present invention obtained by the alkali treatment have an extremely large number of fine fluffs throughout the yarn or the fabric, so that the yarn and the fabric have an appearance and characteristics more similar to spun yarn,
It has an excellent appearance and texture with a luxurious feel closer to wool. And, the polyester thick and thin mottled yarn and fabric of the present invention can be easily produced with high productivity.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a method for examining a dyeing state of a polyester thick and thin plaque of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a view showing an example of a spinneret used to produce the polyester thick and thin mottled yarn of the present invention.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D01F 6/62 301-308 D01D 5/08 D01D 5/20 D01D 6/84 301-311 D01F 6/92 301 -309 D02G 3/00-3/04

Claims (5)

(57) [Claims] 1. The method according to claim 1, wherein the average single fiber deniers are different from each other.
A latently crimpable polyester filament yarn consisting of a group of disperse dye-dyeable polyester filaments having filaments in the length direction and a group of cationic dye-datable polyester filaments having filaments in the length direction. When dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, at any one point along the length direction of the yarn, it is dyed in three or more colors within a maximum length of 1 cm, and 10% or less. A latently crimpable polyester thick and thin mottled yarn having crimpability. 2. The latently finely crimpable polyester filament yarn of claim 1, wherein the disperse dye dyeable polyester filament contains 2.5 to 10% by weight of fine particles having an average particle size of 1.0 μm or less. 3. The latently crimpable polyester according to claim 1, which is dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye.
Le thick plaque . 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the plurality of fluffs are provided.
The latently crimpable polyester thick and thin mottled yarn according to any one of the above . 5. The latent micro-wound according to any one of claims 1 to 4,
Cloth made of shrinkable polyester thick and thin plaques .