JP3574553B2 - High-gloss, high-color mixed yarn - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a yarn suitable for clothing, specifically, having a high-grade silky silky feel and a soft dry tactile feel of flat ultrafine fibers, and despite being a fine fiber, good. TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a mixed fiber having excellent gloss and high color developability having excellent color developability and a method for producing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, irregular cross-section fibers have been known as yarns excellent in glossiness. Above all, the flat cross-section fiber has a very strong glossiness due to the size of the reflection surface. However, the glossiness of the flat cross-section fiber is shining and lacks a sense of quality. Also, a fiber having a triangular cross section is well known as a material having a silky luster, but it does not have a silky velvet-like luxury.
[0003]
The irregular cross-section fiber, particularly the flat cross-section fiber, has a dry touch due to the structure having the edge.
However, the dry touch is rough and lacks in delicacy. In order to obtain a dry touch while being soft, it is necessary to reduce the denier of the single fiber fineness. However, it is well known that ultrafine fibers are inferior in color development. In the case of a flat cross section, since the thickness is smaller than that of a round cross section fiber having the same single fiber fineness, the coloring property is further inferior.
[0004]
[Method to solve the problem]
Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have intensively studied a yarn having silky velvet-like elegant glossiness and soft dry touch, and further excellent color development, and as a result, have reached the present invention. That is, in the present invention, when the major axis of the fiber cross section is 1 and the minor axis is d, the cross section flatness represented by (l / d) is 3 to 10, and the single fiber fineness is 0.2 to 0.8 denier. A mixed fiber comprising a yarn having a flat cross section as a side yarn, wherein the mixed fiber has a structure in which three or more flat cross fibers are arranged in parallel along the major axis direction of the flat cross section. A high-gloss fabric characterized by the fact that the flat cross-section fibers contributing to the parallel structure coexist with the structure in which the fibers are not arranged in parallel, and occupy 50% or more of all the flat cross-section fibers contained in the mixed yarn. It is a highly colored mixed yarn.
[0005]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
In order to have a soft silky touch while having a silky velvet-like elegant luster, an extremely thin flat cross-sectional shape is required. Here, an important point is that a structure in which three or more of the flat cross-section single fibers are arranged in parallel along the flat cross section exists in the mixed fiber at a specific ratio or more. This structure is shown in FIG. FIG. 2 shows a comparative example in which flat cross-section ultrafine fibers are oriented in a relatively random direction.
The structure in which three or more flat cross-section single fibers are arranged in parallel along the flat cross-section means that the position of the flat cross-section single fiber and the adjacent flat cross-section fiber are not displaced in the long-axis direction by 1/3 or more of the long diameter. And the distance of the most distant portion is not more than twice the minor axis. FIG. 3-1 corresponds to the parallel structure referred to in the present invention, and FIG. 3-2 is a diagram showing that the structure is not parallel.
Further, the composition ratio of the flat cross-section single fibers contributing to the parallel structure can be obtained by taking an electron micrograph of the yarn and determining the number of each constituent single yarn as the ratio with the total number of the single yarns according to the above definition.
In the mixed fiber of the present invention, adjacent flat cross-section fibers are arranged in parallel along the major axis direction of the fiber cross section, and a flat cross-section fiber group having such a structure rises outward from the center of the mixed fiber. Including such structures. For this reason, the light incident on the mixed yarn repeats reflection and internal absorption between adjacent flat cross-section single fibers, reducing the amount of specularly reflected light entering the naked eye, and there is a thick, glossy portion in the mixed yarn visually. I do. Moreover, since the mixed fiber of the present invention also includes a structure in which the flat cross-section fibers are not arranged side by side, there is also specularly reflected light that directly enters the naked eye. Therefore, in the case of a fabric, a dark glossy portion and a glossy portion are mixed, and a silky velvet-like luxury is obtained.
[0006]
In order to obtain the silk velvet-like appearance, a structure is required in which three or more flat cross-section fibers are arranged in parallel along the major axis direction of the flat cross section. It is not preferable that two flat cross-section single fibers are arranged in parallel, since the effects of reflection and internal absorption between the single fibers cannot be obtained. Further, the structure in which three or more fibers are arranged in parallel must occupy 50% or more of the total flat cross-section fibers constituting the mixed fiber. If it is less than 50%, it is not preferable because the effects of reflection and internal absorption between single fibers cannot be obtained. More preferably, it is 65% or more and 85% or less.
[0007]
The cross-sectional flatness l / d of the flat cross-section fiber needs to be 3 to 10 in view of its glossiness. When 1 / d is less than 3, the reflection surface is small and the velvet effect cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if 1 / d is more than 10, the flat fibers are easily bent, and it is difficult to obtain the above-mentioned parallel structure, resulting in glaring, which is not preferable. Preferably, the range of 1 / d 4 to 6 is good.
[0008]
The flat cross section fiber has a very strong dry feeling due to its edge structure. With a silk velvet appearance and a dry touch with a rough and hard feel, the fabric is unbalanced. Therefore, it is necessary to make it extremely fine. To obtain a soft dry touch that matches the velvet appearance, 0.2 to 0.8 denier is required. If the single fiber fineness of the fiber is less than 0.2 denier, a dry feeling is reduced due to a slimy feeling, and the single fiber fineness is too thin and poor in color development. If the single fiber fineness exceeds 0.8 denier, a sufficient soft touch cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. More preferably, it is 0.25 to 0.6 denier.
[0009]
Further, in the mixed fiber of the present invention, a difference in yarn length is required in order to arrange as a side yarn in a structure in which a part of the flat cross section ultrafine fiber rises in a parallel state. There are a structurally processed yarn type and a structurally drawn yarn type as a material having a yarn length difference, and the mixed fiber of the present invention needs to be a kind of structurally drawn yarn, a different shrinkage mixed fiber. This is because the structurally processed yarn type in which false twisting is performed has a large cross-sectional deformation and cannot obtain a good flat cross section.
In order to ensure a sufficient difference in yarn length as a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, a high shrinkage polyester filament having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 12% or more is required as a polyester filament yarn used for the core yarn. More preferably, it is 20% or more and 35% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is large, the difference in yarn length increases, and the shrinkage of the core yarn causes the flat cross section ultrafine fiber yarn to be extremely bent and the parallel structure of the flat cross section ultrafine fiber collapses, resulting in a velvet effect. Cannot be obtained.
[0010]
The boiling water shrinkage of the flat section fiber used for the side yarn must be 4% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the side yarn exceeds 4%, the flat cross-section fibers adhere to each other to form a dumpling state. In this state, it becomes a kind of fiber having a round cross section, so that light reflection and internal absorption effects between flat single fibers are reduced, and a velvet effect is not obtained, which is not preferable.
Further, the boiling water shrinkage of the flat cross-section fiber is not more than -3%, that is, the spontaneous elongation is not less than 3%. In other words, this is because the parallel state of the flat cross section collapses during the spontaneous elongation process and is randomized. Therefore, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the flat cross section ultrafine fiber as the side yarn is preferably -3% to 4%, more preferably -1% to 2%.
[0011]
Next, a method for producing the mixed fiber of the present invention will be described.
First, an important point is that the flat cross section ultrafine fiber is produced from a melt splitting type conjugate fiber. For convenience, it is considered that an ultra-thin flat-section yarn is spun and used as a side yarn. However, in this method, it is difficult to obtain a structure in which three or more ultra-thin flat-section single fibers are arranged in parallel. That is, since the tension state in the spinning-drawing spinning step and the air processing step, in particular, the air processing step is a step of migrating the yarn, the flat cross section ultrafine fibers are oriented in random directions and are not arranged in parallel. Therefore, the structure of the mixed fiber of the present invention cannot be obtained from the high shrinkage yarn and the ultra-fine flat-section yarn.
[0012]
As described above, the yarn structure of the present invention can be obtained only from a split-fiber composite fiber, but this composite fiber also requires considerable contrivance.
First, a nylon / polyester laminated conjugate fiber is well known as a conjugate fiber that gives an ultrafine flat-section yarn by splitting. It is well known that the drawback of this nylon / polyester laminated structural fiber lies in the color fastness. That is, when the polyester side is dyed with a disperse dye, the nylon is contaminated with the disperse dye, and the fastness in a dark color is extremely poor. Therefore, since it is impossible to express a silk velvet-like dark color, the object of the present invention is deviated.
In addition, the split fibers of the nylon / polyester have a form in which the single fibers adhere to each other after splitting, and are in a dumpling state rather than in a side-by-side manner, and it is difficult to obtain a silk velvet effect.
[0013]
From the above viewpoints, in order to obtain a form in which the ultrafine fibers having a flat cross section are arranged side by side without being in close contact with each other in the mixed fiber after the split splitting process, the mixed fiber is manufactured using a melt splitting type composite fiber. Is preferred. In this case, it is necessary to use a composite fiber composed of the alkali-soluble polymer (a) and the polymer (b) having a lower alkali dissolution rate than the polymer (a).
That is, the polymer (a) and the polymer (b) are fiberized as a composite structure in which a plurality of layers are alternately laminated in a fiber cross section, and the polymer (a) of the obtained composite fiber is completely dissolved and removed. Is left as it is, it is possible to form the above-mentioned parallel structure in the mixed fiber.
In this case, the dissolution rate of the polymer (a) is at least 10 times, more preferably 30 to 300 times that of the polymer (b). If the dissolution rate is less than 10 times, not only the polymer (a) but also the polymer (b) will be considerably dissolved during the alkali treatment, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the dissolution rate exceeds 300 times, it is difficult to control the dyeing process including the texture treatment, which is not preferable.
[0014]
As the polymer (b), a normal homopolyester such as polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate is preferably used. As the polymer (a), for example, pentasodium sulfoisophthalic acid is used to increase the alkali dissolution rate. Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized to about 5 to 5 mol% and modified polyester obtained by further copolymerizing or mixing 1 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol with these are preferably used.
[0015]
The constituent weight ratio of the polymer (a) and the polymer (b) must be 1/2 to 1/4. When the weight ratio exceeds 1/2, the gap between the polymers (b) after dissolving and removing the polymer (a) becomes large. For this reason, the ultrafine flat cross-section single fiber is liable to move during the dyeing process, the ratio of non-parallelism increases, and the silk velvet effect is reduced, which is not preferable. When the weight ratio is less than 1/4, the gap between the polymers (b) after dissolving and removing the polymer (a) becomes small. For this reason, the ultrafine flat cross-section single fibers are easily adhered to each other, and are in a state of a single fiber, which is undesirable because the silk velvet effect is reduced.
[0016]
The cross-sectional shape of the conjugate fiber before the alkali dissolution splitting treatment may be either a round cross section or a flat cross section. Preferably, if the L / D has a flat cross section of 1.5 to 3, a greater silk velvet-like effect can be obtained after the dissolution division process. This is because the flat cross-section ultrafine fiber obtained by alkali-treating the round cross-section conjugate fiber and the flat cross-section ultra-fine fiber obtained by alkali-treating the flat cross-section conjugate fiber, even if they have the same single fiber fineness, have a flat cross-section. The flat cross section ultrafine fiber obtained by treating the conjugate fiber with alkali has a smaller l / d and is a thick flat fiber, so that the apparent color developability is improved, and even if the ultrafine flat cross section single yarns adhere to each other. This is presumed to be because it is unlikely to be in a state of a single fiber with a round cross section even if the shape is changed, but the details are unknown. As a result, the use of the flat cross section ultrafine fiber obtained by alkali-treating the flat cross section composite fiber enables the expression of a dark color, and has a greater silk velvet effect.
[0017]
The composite form of the polymer (a) and the polymer (b) in the composite fiber needs to have a laminated structure in which both polymers are alternately laminated in five or more layers. In the mixed fiber of the present invention, the structure in which three or more ultra-fine flat cross-section single fibers are arranged in parallel is such that the polymer (b) remaining after dissolving the polymer (a) layer is in a layered form, forming a parallel structure. For this purpose, there must be three or more polymer (b) layers. The five-layer structure means that the polymer (a) has two layers and the polymer (b) has three layers, which is the minimum laminated structure for forming the yarn structure of the mixed fiber of the present invention. On the other hand, when the laminated structure has 15 or more layers, the polymer (a) layer becomes extremely thin, and the drawbacks such as the stability of the alkali dividing treatment and the occurrence of warpage such as collapse of the laminated structure after the division are increased. Therefore, it is not very preferable.
[0018]
The composite fiber as described above is obtained by subjecting the polymer (a) and the polymer (b) to composite melt-spinning so as to have a predetermined bonded structure to form a highly oriented filament having a breaking elongation (DE) of 70 to 180%. The relaxation heat treatment is performed at a temperature of 130 to 190 ° C. and an excess supply rate of 25% or less to reduce the boiling water shrinkage to 4% or less. Prior to the relaxation heat treatment, if necessary, the film is stretched at a stretching temperature of 100 ° C. or higher at a stretching ratio of [(DE / 100) +1] × 0.6 to 0.75 times.
Whether the stretching treatment is performed or not depends on about 100% elongation at break. That is, if the relaxation heat treatment is performed in the state of the undrawn yarn, the oriented crystallization does not proceed at all, and the practical strength is insufficient. Therefore, a drawing treatment is required depending on the breaking elongation. In that case, if the stretching temperature is lower than 100 ° C., a thick and thin structure is easily generated, which is not preferable. Also, if the stretching ratio is less than [(DE / 100) +1] × 0.6, a thick and thin structure occurs, which is not preferable. If the stretching ratio exceeds [(DE / 100) +1] × 0.75, the orientation is excessively advanced, and even if a relaxation treatment is applied, the dark color effect is weak, which is not preferable. Therefore, the point is that the oriented crystallization of the composite fiber is not advanced.
[0019]
If the elongation at break is less than 70%, the orientation in the spinning step proceeds too much, and even if a relaxation treatment is performed, a deepening effect cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. When the elongation at break exceeds 180%, the yarn becomes a thick-and-thin yarn at the draw ratio of Formula [1]. The undrawn portion of this thick and thin yarn is not preferred because the oriented crystallization has not progressed, so that the alkali weight loss rate is very high and a hole is formed in the alkali treatment. More preferably, the elongation at break is 90 to 120%.
[0020]
The relaxation heat treatment must be performed at a heater temperature of 130 to 190 ° C. and an excess supply rate of 25% or less. If the heater temperature is lower than 130 ° C., the boiling water shrinkage does not become 4% or less, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the heater temperature exceeds 190 ° C., crystallization proceeds excessively, and the dark color effect becomes weak, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the excess supply rate is 25% or more, a thick and thin structure occurs, which is not preferable. More preferably, the heater temperature is 140 to 170 ° C. and the excess supply rate is 3 to 15%.
[0021]
The conjugate fiber thus obtained is subjected to an air entanglement treatment with the highly shrinkable filament yarn A to form a conjugate yarn. This is necessary in order to obtain a swelling feeling as a hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber. The air entanglement treatment in this case is desirably set to 30 to 80 entanglements / m in order to increase the expression of the different shrinkage effect during the dyeing process.
[0022]
The composite yarn is subjected to an alkali treatment to dissolve and remove the alkali-soluble polymer (a), thereby obtaining a high-gloss, high-color-forming mixed fiber yarn intended in the present invention. This alkali treatment may be performed in the state of the composite yarn, but is preferably performed during the dyeing process after knitting or weaving, because the above-described parallel structure of the flat cross-section fibers is easily formed and maintained in the state of the fabric.
[0023]
The alkali treatment needs to be performed in one stage using caustic soda, a concentration of 20 g / l or more, and no weight loss promoter. In other words, for the purpose of performing uniform and stable dissolution and removal, there is a method of treating once with a low-concentration alkaline solution and then treating with a high-concentration alkaline solution. The luster desired by the present invention cannot be obtained.
[0024]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples.
[0025]
Example 1
6% by weight of polyethylene glycol was added to polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate polymer (b) and pentasodium sulfoisophthalic acid (2.5 mol%) obtained by a conventional method. The alkali dissolution rate was about 40 times faster than (b). And a polymer (a) having a weight ratio of (a) / (b) = 1/2, a spinning speed of 3,700 m / min, and an L / D 2.3, 11-layer laminated flat cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. Composite spinning was performed to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn X of 96 denier / 24 filaments having a breaking elongation of 98%. This yarn X was stretched at a hot pin temperature of 120 ° C. and 1.386 times, and then subjected to a relaxation heat treatment at a heater temperature of 165 ° C. and an excess supply rate of 8% to a boiling water shrinkage of 1.3%. Thereafter, the low-shrinkage composite fiber yarn and a 35-denier / 6-filament polyester filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 21% are subjected to air entanglement at a tangling rate of 67 pieces / m to obtain a composite yarn W (110 denier / 30). Filament).
Next, this composite yarn W was used as a twin yarn, twisted at 700 t / m, woven in a five-satin structure, subjected to an alkali treatment in a dyeing process, and dyed in a dark color. The alkali treatment was performed at a concentration of 40 g / l at 100 ° C. using caustic soda after presetting.
The resulting fabric had silk velvet-like luster, good color development, rich swelling and a soft dry touch.
The monofilament fineness of the flat cross section ultrafine fibers contained in this yarn was about 0.35 denier on average, and the cross section flatness was about 3 to about 6. Further, when the cross section of the yarn was observed with a microscope, it was found that a structure in which three or more flat cross-section single fibers were arranged in parallel along the flat cross section contained 68% of the flat cross-section yarn.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a yarn cross-sectional view showing a parallel structure of flat fibers in a mixed fiber of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of a mixed fiber outside the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a diagram for explaining a parallel state of flat cross-section fibers in a mixed fiber.
FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of a conjugate fiber used in an example.

Claims (2)

When the major axis of the fiber cross section is 1 and the minor axis is d, the cross section expressed by (l / d) is 3 to 10, and the single fiber fineness is 0.2 to 0.8 denier. the yarn with the side yarns, a combined filament yarn of the structure drawn yarn types including polyester filament yarn as a core yarn, during該混yarn in the major axis direction of three or more fiber cross-section of the flat cross section fiber The parallel structure along the line and the structure in which the flat cross-section single fibers are not parallel coexist, and the flat cross-section fibers contributing to the parallel structure account for 50% or more of all the flat cross-section fibers contained in the mixed fiber. And the parallel structure has a laminated structure in which two or more layers of the dissolved polymer and three or more layers of the residual polymer are alternately laminated, and the weight ratio of the dissolved polymer to the residual polymer is in the range of 1: 2 to 1: 4. By dissolving and removing the dissolved polymer from a composite fiber High gloss and high coloring properties combined filament yarn which is characterized in that those obtained. The mixed fiber according to claim 1, wherein the flat cross-section fiber is a polyester fiber.

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