JP2001164436A - Polyester combined filament yarn and woven and knitted fabric using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain both a polyester combined filament yarn having excellent soft feeling and dry feeling, showing excellent grain feeling when colored in multicolor dyeing and excellent levelness when dyed in a single color and a woven fabric using the combined filament yarn at a low cost efficiently. SOLUTION: This combined filament yarn comprises two kinds of polyester multifilament groups A and B. The filament group A substantially constitutes a sheath part, has 10-50 filaments density based on 10 microns of plane distance in the direction of outer periphery of filament perpendicular to a fiber axis on the surface of the filament and fine unevenness satisfying the formulas (1) to (3) of 0.05 micron<=diameter of minor axis <=1.0 micron (1), 0.5 micron<=diameter of major axis <=4.0 microns (2) and 0.2 micron<=distance between centers of adjoining recessed parts <=0.7 microns (3). On the other hand, the filament group B substantially constitutes a core part, comprises an alkali metal sulfoisophthalate and a polyalkylene oxide-based glycol, difference in yarn length between the filament group A and the filament group B forming the combined filament yarn is 5-25% and the weight loss rate ratio (B/A) with an alkali aqueous solution is <=3 times to give the objective combined filament yarn. The woven and knitted fabric is obtained by using the combined filament yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a polyester blended yarn which gives a good heat feeling when dyed with an alkali dye and has excellent levelness when dyed with a disperse dye. Related to woven and knitted fabrics.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester fibers are easy to handle, have moderate wear durability, are more advantageous in terms of price than other synthetic fibers, and have an extremely wide use as clothing fibers. However, these polyester fibers also have some disadvantages because of their uniformity. That is, since the surface of the polyester fiber is smooth, it exhibits a slimy and cool touch and is inferior in softness and warmth.

Conventionally, false twisted yarns, mixed shrinkage mixed yarns or self-extended mixed yarns have been known as means for imparting warmth and softness. Above all, the self-extended mixed yarn can give a certain degree of swelling even under the restraining force of the fabric, and is therefore used as a means for imparting a soft feeling. However, these products are not merely products that have been given a mere soft feeling due to recent consumers' preference for high-grade products, but also have other features such as products of different or multicolor dyeing by combining different polymers, such as so-called melange heather products and chic and thin yarns. There are many demands for products that exhibit a wide variety of appearances, such as products that impart a dry and marbling sensation by using phenol. There is a great need from consumers in that these products are relatively inexpensive and have wash-and-wear properties, especially as compared to high-grade wool products and the like.

[0004] However, although the different shrink mixed yarn and the self-extended mixed yarn made of a combination of different polymers are soft and can give a sense of heat, they do not have a dry feeling like the use of thick and thin yarn. Further, even when used for applications that do not allow dyeing in different colors, there is a problem that a difference in dyeing occurs between the core yarn and the sheath yarn due to a difference in the polymer composition of the core yarn and the sheath yarn and a difference in the fine structure at the molecular level. In particular, since the modified polyester has a relatively loose molecular structure, the amount of dye exhaustion increases, and even when dyed with a disperse dye, there is a strong tendency to become darker. On the other hand, different shrinkage mixed yarns and self-extended mixed yarns using thick and thin yarns with cross-sectional area distribution in the fiber length direction satisfy both softness and dryness at the same time, but the thickness of the thick portion is selectively reduced when the alkali weight is reduced. To be
Not only does the single yarn cut or fluff easily occur, but the appearance quality of the woven or knitted fabric is impaired, and the thick portion, which has relatively poor strength due to friction during wear, cuts the single yarn, causing fluffing or pilling, etc. There is also a problem in terms of quality assurance. Furthermore, the sense of heather utilizes the difference in dye exhaustion due to the difference in the fine structure of the fiber.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention overcomes the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and has both unprecedented softness and dryness which cannot be achieved by the conventional method, and enables different-color dyeing. It is an object of the present invention to economically and efficiently produce a polyester mixed yarn which does not cause a dyeing difference even in a single color dyeing and a woven or knitted fabric using the same.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention. That is, the present invention relating to the mixed yarn comprises a mixed yarn comprising a polyester multifilament group A substantially constituting a sheath portion and a polyester multifilament group B substantially constituting a core portion, wherein the yarn length difference is 5% or more. In the above, the polyester multifilament group A is made of fibers having fine irregularities on the filament surface, and the polyester multifilament group B is made of a cationic dye dyeable fiber. Specifically, the fiber surface of the filaments constituting the polyester multifilament group A has a density of 10 to 50 per 10 micron plane distance in the outer circumferential direction of the fiber perpendicular to the fiber axis, and the following (1) to (3) The polyester mixed fiber yarn described above, which has fine irregularities satisfying the formula: 0.05 micron ≦ W ≦ 1.0 micron (1) 0.5 micron ≦ L ≦ 4.0 micron (2) 0 0.2 μm ≦ X ≦ 0.7 μm (3) (W represents the minor axis diameter of the concave portion, L represents the major axis diameter.
X represents the distance between the centers of adjacent recesses. ) The filaments constituting the polyester multifilament group B are
The polyester mixed yarn, polyester multifilament group A and polyester multifilament group B described above, comprising an alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid and a polyalkylene oxide glycol.
Wherein the polyester mixed fiber yarn and the polyester multifilament group B described above are characterized in that the yarn length difference is 5 to 25% and the weight loss rate ratio (B / A) with an alkaline aqueous solution is 3 times or less. The polyester mixed fiber yarn according to the above, wherein a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 0.75 to 1.2 mol% of 5-sodium metal sulfoisophthalic acid is used. Further, the present invention relating to a woven or knitted fabric is a polyester woven or knitted fabric characterized in that at least a part of the above-described polyester mixed fiber is used. The details will be described below.

The polyester in the present invention is a polyester in which the main acid component is terephthalic acid or an ester derivative thereof and the main glycol component is ethylene glycol, and the acid component is 20 mol% or less of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or an ester thereof. Forming derivatives, aromatic dicarboxylic acids or their ester forming derivatives can be included as copolymerization components. Also, 20 mol% of the acid component
The following oxycarboxylic acids or ester-forming derivatives thereof can also be included. As the glycol component, 20 mol% or less of propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,10-decamethylene glycol,
It can include 4,4-dihydroxybisphenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, 2,5-naphthalenediol, glycols obtained by adding ethylene oxide to these glycols, polyethylene glycol, and the like.

[0008] These polyester fibers may contain small amounts of other optional polymers, antioxidants, antistatic agents, dye improvers, dyes, pigments, optical brighteners and other additives. good.

The polymer used for the polyester filament group A forming the polyester mixed fiber of the present invention is a polyester containing an inorganic fine pore-forming agent. Examples of the fine pore-forming agent include colloidal silica, dry silica fine particles, Either alumina fine particles or titanium oxide may be used. Colloidal silica or dry silica fine particles are more preferable from the viewpoint of the ability to form fine pores, and the particle size of the fine particles is preferably 20 nm to 120 nm from the viewpoint of dispersibility. Further, the addition amount is preferably 0.3 to 5% by weight, and if it is less than 0.3% by weight, the fine pore forming ability is lacking, and if it exceeds 5% by weight, not only the yarn operability deteriorates, but also Undesirably, product fluff and pilling occur.

It is important that the polyester filament group B forming the polyester mixed fiber of the present invention is made of cationic dye-dyeable fibers, and in order to realize uniform and sufficient dyeability with the cationic dye, alkali filaments are used. It is desirable to contain metal sulfoisophthalic acid and polyalkylene oxide glycol. As the alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-sodium metal sulfoisophthalic acid is preferred from the viewpoint of cost and heat resistance, and the content is preferably 0.75 to 1.2 mol%. When the amount is less than 0.75 mol%, the dye exhaustion at the time of cationic dyeing is low, and the so-called melange effect is small. Conversely, if it exceeds 1.2 mol%, the dyeability is improved, but the yarn strength is reduced, and yarn breakage and fuzz are likely to occur in the yarn-making step and post-processing step, resulting in poor operability. Further, the rate of weight loss is increased, and the tear strength or burst strength of the product is also decreased, which is not preferable. More preferably, 0.
9 to 1.2 mol%.

[0011] The polyester blended yarn of the present invention and the woven or knitted fabric using the same are obtained by spinning the above polymer at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C to 2
The multifilament obtained by melt spinning at 80 ° C. and a take-up speed of 2,000 m / min to 4000 m / min is
The stretching is performed by passing through a preheating roller at 0 ° C. to 100 ° C., or the sheet is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment in a range of 5% to 60% by a non-contact heater at 170 ° C. to 230 ° C. without stretching. A filament group A having self-extensibility and a polymer capable of dyeing a cationic dye are prepared at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. to 280 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1000 m / min.
The multifilament obtained by melt-spinning at 3000 m / min is drawn by a preheating roller at 70 ° C to 100 ° C, and mixed with a filament group B having a boiling water shrinkage rate at 160 ° C of 10% to 30%. After that, it can be obtained by knitting, weaving, and reducing and dyeing.

However, when the filament group A is stretched to 130
A low shrinkage yarn having a dry heat shrinkage of 10% or less at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes after heat setting at a temperature of at least 100 ° C. may be used.

The fiber surface of the multifilament group A forming the polyester mixed fiber according to the present invention has a surface of 10 to 50 per 10 microns per plane distance in the outer circumferential direction of the fiber perpendicular to the fiber axis.
It is preferable to have fine irregularities at the density of the individual, and if it is less than 10, the surface reflection light increases and the dark color effect is low. Conversely, if it exceeds 50, the dark color effect is large, but fluff is generated in the subsequent process. Are likely to occur, and the processability is poor. Further, it is necessary to increase the addition amount of the fine pore-forming agent, which undesirably lowers the operability in the spinning process. More preferably, the number is 12 to 50 per 10 microns.

The size of the fine irregularities existing on the fiber surface of the polyester multifilament group A is expressed by the following formulas (1) to (3): 0.05 micron ≦ W ≦ 1.0 micron (1) 0.5 micron ≤ L ≤ 4.0 microns (2) 0.2 microns ≤ X ≤ 0.7 microns (3) (W represents the minor axis diameter of the concave portion, L represents the major axis diameter.
X represents the distance between the centers of adjacent recesses. It is preferable to satisfy the above. If it is not satisfied, light cannot be efficiently absorbed and the dark color effect is low. In the case of single-color dyeing, a large amount of dye is exhausted to the cationic dyeable yarn constituting the core. For this reason, a dyeing difference such as a dark appearance and a thin sheath appears, which is not preferable.

It is important that the difference in yarn length between the filament groups A and B forming the polyester mixed yarn of the present invention is 5% or more, preferably 5 to 25% in order to impart a soft feeling. If it is less than 5%, sufficient swelling cannot be expressed, the bulkiness is poor, and a soft feeling cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the content exceeds 25%, a practical problem arises in that the sense of fluttering is large rather than the feeling of softness, and that snags are easily generated. More preferably, it is 10 to 23%.

[0016]

The present invention will be described below with reference to examples. The method used for the evaluation of the present invention is as follows.

(Yarn length difference)
Cut to 0mm length, high shrink yarn denier x 0.1g /
The yarn length (SL) under a load of d is measured.
In this state, the core yarn is cut while leaving the slack sheath yarn, and a load of 0.1 g / d of denier of the self-extended yarn is applied to measure the yarn length (LL) again. Ask for. Yarn length difference (%) = {(LL-SL) / SL} x 100

(Number and size of micropores) An enlarged photograph of ten monofilaments taken at 7,000 times by a scanning electron microscope (SEM) was taken, and micropores having a plane distance of 10 μm in the outer circumferential direction of the fiber perpendicular to the fiber axis were taken. Was measured and evaluated by an average value of 10 pieces. In addition, the size of the micropores was randomly selected from 30 micropores present on the fiber surface, and the short axis and long axis of the recesses, as well as the length between the centers of adjacent recesses, were measured and evaluated by the average value.

(Rate of reduction rate) Assuming that the bath ratio is 1:50, 6
The sample was put into a 30 g / l aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide heated to 0 ° C., and the temperature was increased at a rate of 2 ° C./min.
After the temperature was raised to 0 ° C., samples were taken out at intervals of 10 minutes and subjected to weight loss treatment until 60 minutes, and the respective weight loss rates were calculated by the following formulas and plotted against the weight loss time. A linear regression was performed on the obtained scatter diagram to determine a weight loss rate from a gradient of each graph approximated by a straight line, and a weight loss rate ratio (B / A) between the filament groups B and A was evaluated. Weight loss rate (%) = (Na-Nb) / Nb × 100 Na: Sample weight after weight loss Nb: Sample weight before weight loss

(Evaluation of heat feeling and texture) The feeling of heat and texture of the product was judged by three dyeing technicians who had long experience in evaluating the texture of polyester fabric.

(Example 1) A polymer obtained by blending 2.5% by weight of silica with respect to a polymer in polyethylene terephthalate in which terephthalic acid is used as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol is used as a glycol component was used. The highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning at 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 3000 m / min was processed at a processing speed of 500 m / min by a non-contact heater at 220 ° C. and an overfeed rate of 1
70 denier 1 by performing relaxation heat treatment at 5.0%
An 8-filament self-extending yarn was obtained. On the other hand, using a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with respect to the produced polyester and 3.0% by weight of the EO adduct of neopentyl glycol with respect to the produced polyester, a spinning temperature of 270 was used ° C, take-off speed 15
An undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning at 00 m / min is passed through a hot roller at 80 ° C. and drawn 2.7 times to obtain an undrawn yarn.
The fiber was mixed and entangled with a high shrinkage yarn of 0 denier and 30 filaments to obtain a self-extended mixed fiber of 170 denier and 48 filaments.

The obtained drawn yarn is given an SZ twist of 600 T / m, and is used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn. The obtained yarn is alternately driven into a plain-textured fabric, and the obtained fabric is subjected to ordinary scouring and drying. 30g / l after heat relaxation and preset
The solution was treated with caustic soda solution to reduce the weight by 20%, and then the dye concentration was 1.0% ow at a bath ratio of 1:10 using a jet dyeing machine.
f = dispersion dye (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku) and 2.0% owf dispersion type cationic dye (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.). After dyeing at 125 ° C. for 20 minutes under acidity of No. 6 and performing reduction washing, a finishing resin was applied and final set to obtain a finishing cloth. A fabric having a good heather feeling and a soft and dry feel was obtained.

Example 2 At the time of dyeing, the dye concentration was 15.0.
% Owf black disperse dye (Dianix Black BG-FS200%;
Finished cloth was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes using only Dystar Japan Co., Ltd.). The obtained fabric was soft and dry, had no dyeing difference between the core yarn and the sheath yarn, and was excellent in levelness and darkness.

Example 3 As a filament group A, a highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 3000 m / min was mixed with a hot roller at 80 ° C.
A finished fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a drawn yarn drawn 1.7 times by passing through a hot plate at 50 ° C. was used. The obtained fabric had a slightly soft feeling, but had a dry feel and a good heather feeling.

Example 4 As a filament group A, a highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning at a temperature of 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 3000 m / min was processed at a processing speed of 400 m / min by a non-contact heater at 220 ° C. , The overfeed rate is 2
A finished cloth was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the content was 2.0%. The obtained fabric had a good dry feeling and heather feeling,
There was a problem in durability when worn because the feeling of shaking was large and snags were easily generated.

Example 5 As a filament group A, a polymer obtained by blending 7.0% by weight of silica with respect to a polymer in polyethylene terephthalate having terephthalic acid as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol as a glycol component A finished cloth was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that を was used. The resulting fabric was soft, rich in dryness, and excellent in heat, but had a problem in operability at the time of spinning. In addition, there are many occurrences of fluff and yarn breakage in the post-processing step, and there is also a problem in the processability.

(Example 6) As the filament group B, 5
Example 1 with the exception that a modified polyester was used in which 1.5 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid was copolymerized with the produced polyester and EO adduct of neopentyl glycol was copolymerized with 3.0 wt% of the produced polyester. In the same manner as above, a finished cloth was obtained. The obtained fabric was soft, excellent in dry feeling and good in heather feeling, but was inferior in tear strength of the fabric.

Comparative Example 1 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a polymer containing no silica was used as the filament group A. The obtained fabric had good heather feeling but lacked dry feel.

Comparative Example 2 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that a polymer containing no silica was used as the filament group A. The obtained fabric has no dry feeling,
Further, the core-sheath dyeing difference, so-called irritation, was large, and the appearance quality was lacking.

Comparative Example 3 As a filament group A, a highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 3000 m / min was mixed with a hot roller of 80 ° C.
Melt spinning was performed at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1500 m / min using a drawn yarn drawn 1.7 times by passing through a hot plate at 50 ° C. and using a cationic dye dyeable polymer as a filament group B. The undrawn yarn obtained by
A finished cloth was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a drawn yarn drawn 2.7 times by passing through a 0 ° C. hot roller and a 160 ° C. hot plate was used. The resulting fabric had a good dry feeling and heather feeling, but lacked a soft feeling.

[0031]

[Table 1]

[0032]

According to the present invention, there is provided a polyester blend having an excellent softness and a dry feeling, exhibiting a good heather feeling when dyed in different colors, and exhibiting excellent levelness when dyed in a single color. It becomes possible to efficiently provide a low cost and woven fabric using the yarn.

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page F term (reference) 4L036 MA05 MA15 MA33 PA26 PA33 UA01 UA30 4L048 AA20 AA21 AA22 AA41 AA42 AA46 AA50 AA56 AB08 AB09 AB15 AC07 BA01 BA02 CA12 CA16 EB04

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A mixed yarn comprising a polyester multifilament group A substantially constituting a sheath portion and a polyester multifilament group B substantially constituting a core portion having a yarn length difference of 5% or more, wherein the polyester multifilament is used. Filament group A is composed of fibers having fine irregularities on the filament surface, and polyester multifilament group B is composed of cationic dye dyeable fibers. 2. The fiber surface of the filaments constituting the polyester multifilament group A has a density of 10 to 50 per 10 micron plane distance in the outer circumferential direction of the fiber perpendicular to the fiber axis and the following (1) to (3): The polyester mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, which has fine irregularities satisfying the formula. 0.05 μm ≦ W ≦ 1.0 μm (1) 0.5 μm ≦ L ≦ 4.0 μm (2) 0.2 μm ≦ X ≦ 0.7 μm (3) (W is the minor axis diameter of the concave portion And L represents a major axis diameter.
X represents the distance between the centers of adjacent recesses. ) 3. The polyester mixed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the filaments constituting the polyester multifilament group B contain an alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid and a polyalkylene oxide glycol. 4. The yarn length difference between the polyester multifilament group A and the polyester multifilament group B is 5 to 25.
% And the weight loss rate ratio (B /
2. The polyester mixed yarn according to claim 1, wherein A) is 3 times or less. 5. The polyester multifilament group B contains 5-sodium metal sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 0.75 to 5.75.
2. The polyester mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, wherein a modified polyester copolymerized by 1.2 mol% is used. 6. A polyester woven or knitted fabric comprising at least a part of the polyester mixed fiber according to claim 1.