JPH04361650A - Production of elastic peach-tone knit fabric - Google Patents

Production of elastic peach-tone knit fabric

Info

Publication number
JPH04361650A
JPH04361650A JP16633691A JP16633691A JPH04361650A JP H04361650 A JPH04361650 A JP H04361650A JP 16633691 A JP16633691 A JP 16633691A JP 16633691 A JP16633691 A JP 16633691A JP H04361650 A JPH04361650 A JP H04361650A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
knitted fabric
fibers
fiber
knit fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP16633691A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP3023896B2 (en
Inventor
Kentaro Kamamoto
釜本 健太郎
Minoru Takami
高美 実
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unitika Ltd
Original Assignee
Unitika Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unitika Ltd filed Critical Unitika Ltd
Priority to JP16633691A priority Critical patent/JP3023896B2/en
Publication of JPH04361650A publication Critical patent/JPH04361650A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP3023896B2 publication Critical patent/JP3023896B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

Links

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain peach-tone knit fabric having excellent elongating properties and elongation recovering properties, namely elasticity by preparing knit cloth from yarn composed of specific ultra-fine fiber and yarn made of latently crimping conjugate fiber and heat-treating the knit fabric. CONSTITUTION:(A) Yarn composed of ultra-fine fiber having <0.5 denier fineness and <=10% shrinkage percentage in hot water and (B) yarn made of latently crimping conjugate fiber having >=2.0 denier fineness and crimping performances of >=70% modulus of elasticity in 30 minutes after treatment in boiling water and >=50% crimping ratio in 30 minutes after treatment in boiling water are subjected to yarn addition knitting in such a way that the yarn of the component A is positioned at the surface side and the yarn of the component B at the back side to give knit fabric. The knit fabric is heat-treated so that the ultra-fine fiber group at the surface side of the knit fabric is made into a napped state by difference in shrinkage between the ultra-fine fiber and the latently crimping conjugate fiber at the surface side of the knit fabric and the knit fabric is provided with excellent elastic performances by development of crimping of the latently crimping conjugate fiber.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

【0001】0001

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、伸長性及び伸長回復性
、即ち伸縮性に優れたピーチ調編地の製造方法に関する
ものである。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a peach-like knitted fabric having excellent elongation and elongation recovery properties, that is, excellent elasticity.

【0002】0002

【従来の技術】編地の表面が桃皮の如き起毛状態を呈す
るピーチ調編地は、手触り等の風合の良さから、主とし
て衣料用に盛んに用いられている。従来、このピーチ調
編地は、繊度が1.0デニール以下の極細繊維で構成さ
れた糸条を用いて編地を編成し、この編地を機械的手段
等で起毛して製造されている。しかし、繊度の細い極細
繊維を使用しているため、ハイゲージ編機等で高密度に
編成しても、十分な張りや腰を編地に与えることができ
なかった。
2. Description of the Related Art Peach-like knitted fabrics, in which the surface of the knitted fabric exhibits a peach-skin-like raised condition, are widely used mainly for clothing because of their good texture. Conventionally, this peach-like knitted fabric has been produced by knitting a knitted fabric using yarn made of ultrafine fibers with a fineness of 1.0 denier or less, and raising this knitted fabric by mechanical means. . However, since ultrafine fibers with a fineness are used, even if knitted at high density using a high-gauge knitting machine, it was not possible to give sufficient tension and stiffness to the knitted fabric.

【0003】このため、極細繊維と繊度の太い太繊度繊
維とを組み合わせた糸条を用いて編地を編成し、その後
この編地を機械的手段等で起毛することが行われている
。極細繊維と太繊度繊維との組み合わせ方としては、(
i)両繊維を単に引き揃える、(ii)両繊維を合撚す
る、(iii)太繊度繊維の表面に極細繊維をシングル
カバリング法又はダブルカバリング法で被覆する、(i
v)両繊維をエアー交絡する等の方法が採用されている
。しかし、これらのいずれの方法で両繊維を組み合わせ
ても、極細繊維のみを機械的手段で起毛させることは困
難で、太繊度繊維も同時に起毛されるということがあっ
た。従って、手触りの優れたピーチ調編地を得ることは
できなかった。また、これらの編地を染色した場合には
、編地表面において、いらつき現象が生じ易かった。こ
れは、編地表面に存在する極細繊維と太繊度繊維との間
に染着性の差があるからである。更に、編地表面で太繊
度繊維が起毛されていると、ピリングが生じ易いという
こともあった。
[0003] For this reason, a knitted fabric is knitted using a yarn that is a combination of ultrafine fibers and thick fibers, and then this knitted fabric is raised by mechanical means or the like. As for how to combine ultrafine fibers and thick fibers,
i) simply pulling both fibers together, (ii) combining and twisting both fibers, (iii) coating the surface of the thick fiber with ultrafine fibers by a single covering method or double covering method, (i)
v) Methods such as air entanglement of both fibers have been adopted. However, no matter which of these methods is used to combine both fibers, it is difficult to raise only the ultrafine fibers by mechanical means, and thick fibers may also be raised at the same time. Therefore, it was not possible to obtain a peach-like knitted fabric with excellent feel. Furthermore, when these knitted fabrics were dyed, irritation phenomenon was likely to occur on the surface of the knitted fabrics. This is because there is a difference in dyeability between the ultrafine fibers and the thick fibers present on the surface of the knitted fabric. Furthermore, if thick fibers are raised on the surface of the knitted fabric, pilling is likely to occur.

【0004】以上の如き欠点を回避するため、本件出願
人は、以下の如き編物の製造方法を提案した(特願平2
−56939号)。即ち、熱水収縮率の小さい極細繊維
と熱水収縮率の大きい太繊度繊維とを組み合わせて編地
を編成し、この編地を熱水で収縮させることにより、表
面に極細繊維を偏在させ、そしてこれを起毛加工して極
細繊維のみを起毛させる編物の製造方法を提案した。
[0004] In order to avoid the above-mentioned drawbacks, the applicant has proposed the following method for producing knitted fabrics (Patent Application No. 2003)
-56939). That is, a knitted fabric is knitted by combining ultrafine fibers with a low hot water shrinkage rate and thick fibers with a high hot water shrinkage rate, and by shrinking this knitted fabric with hot water, the ultrafine fibers are unevenly distributed on the surface, We then proposed a method for producing knitted fabrics in which only the ultrafine fibers are raised.

【0005】しかしながら、この方法で得られた編物は
、熱水収縮率の大きな太繊度繊維によって非常に高密度
な編地となっており、伸縮性の少ない寸法性の安定した
ものである。従って、この編物は、伸縮性を必要とする
使用用途によっては、不適当なことがあった。例えば、
この編物を素材とする衣料は、着用時に不快感を与える
ことがあり、また膝抜けや肘抜け等が発生しやすいとい
うことがあった。
However, the knitted fabric obtained by this method has a very high density due to the thick fibers having a high hot water shrinkage rate, and has stable dimensions with little stretchability. Therefore, this knitted fabric may be unsuitable for some uses that require stretchability. for example,
Clothes made from this knitted fabric may cause discomfort when worn, and are prone to loose knees and elbows.

【0006】[0006]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】そこで、本発明は、前
記した特願平2−56939号に係る発明を基本とし、
特願平2−56939号に係る発明で使用した太繊度繊
維に代えて、ある特定の捲縮性能を持つ潜在捲縮性複合
型繊維を使用し、得られたピーチ調編地に良好な伸縮性
を与えようとするものである。
[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] Therefore, the present invention is based on the invention related to the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Application No. 2-56939,
Instead of the thick fiber used in the invention of Japanese Patent Application No. 2-56939, a latent crimpable composite fiber with a certain crimp performance is used, and the resulting peach-like knitted fabric has good elasticity. It is intended to give a sense of gender.

【0007】[0007]

【課題を解決するための手段】即ち、本発明は、繊度0
.5デニール未満で熱水収縮率が10%以下の極細繊維
よりなる糸条(以下、「A糸条」と言う。)と、繊度2
.0デニール以上で、沸水30分処理後の弾性率が70
%以上で且つ沸水30分処理後の捲縮率が50%以上の
捲縮性能を有する潜在捲縮性複合型繊維よりなる糸条(
以下、「B糸条」と言う。)とを用い、添糸編によって
A糸条を表側に位置せしめ、B糸条を裏側に位置せしめ
るように製編して編地を得、該編地を熱処理することに
より、該極細繊維と該潜在捲縮性複合型繊維の収縮差に
よって、該編地の表側において該極細繊維群が起毛状態
となり、且つ該潜在捲縮性複合型繊維の捲縮発現によっ
て該編地に良好な伸縮性能が付与されることを特徴とす
る伸縮性ピーチ調編地の製造方法に関するものである。
[Means for Solving the Problems] That is, the present invention has a fineness of 0
.. A yarn made of ultrafine fibers of less than 5 denier and a hot water shrinkage rate of 10% or less (hereinafter referred to as "A yarn"), and a fineness of 2
.. 0 denier or more, the elastic modulus after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment is 70
% or more and a crimp rate of 50% or more after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes.
Hereinafter, it will be referred to as "B yarn." ), the A yarn is placed on the front side and the B yarn is placed on the back side by plating to obtain a knitted fabric, and by heat-treating the knitted fabric, the ultrafine fiber and Due to the difference in shrinkage of the latent crimpable composite fibers, the ultrafine fibers become raised on the front side of the knitted fabric, and the crimping of the latent crimpable composite fibers gives the knitted fabric good stretchability. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a stretchable peach-like knitted fabric, which is characterized in that the stretchable peach-like knitted fabric is provided with

【0008】本発明で用いるA糸条は、繊度0.5デニ
ール未満で熱水収縮率が10%以下の極細繊維よりなる
ものである。具体的には、この極細繊維を構成繊維とす
るマルチフィラメント糸条、又はこのマルチフィラメン
ト糸条が仮撚加工された仮撚加工糸条、ニット・デ・ニ
ット加工糸条、エアー処理加工糸条等がA糸条として用
いられる。特に、仮撚加工糸条を用いると、風合の良好
な編地が得られるので、好ましい。なお、A糸条を構成
する際、極細繊維を単独で使用してA糸条としてもよい
し、3〜10本程度の極細繊維を接合剤で接合してなる
分割型繊維を使用してA糸条としてもよい。分割型繊維
としては、従来公知の種々のものが使用でき、例えば図
1に示す如き楔状の極細繊維(1b)が接合剤(1a)
で複数接合されてなるものが使用できる。この分割型繊
維から接合剤(1a)を除去すれば、分割型繊維は分割
され、図2に示す如く極細繊維の束となるのである。
The yarn A used in the present invention is made of ultrafine fibers with a fineness of less than 0.5 denier and a hot water shrinkage rate of 10% or less. Specifically, multifilament yarns containing this ultrafine fiber as constituent fibers, false-twisted yarns, knit-de-knit yarns, and air-treated yarns in which these multifilament yarns are false-twisted. etc. are used as the A yarn. In particular, it is preferable to use false-twisted yarns because a knitted fabric with good texture can be obtained. In addition, when composing the A yarn, the A yarn may be formed by using ultrafine fibers alone, or the A yarn may be formed by using split fibers made by bonding about 3 to 10 ultrafine fibers with a bonding agent. It may also be a thread. As the splittable fibers, various conventionally known fibers can be used. For example, wedge-shaped ultrafine fibers (1b) as shown in FIG. 1 are used as the binder (1a).
You can use one made by joining multiple pieces together. When the binder (1a) is removed from the splittable fibers, the splittable fibers are split into bundles of ultrafine fibers as shown in FIG.

【0009】極細繊維は、繊度0.5デニール未満で熱
水収縮率が10%以下である。極細繊維の繊度が0.5
デニール以上であると、起毛した極細繊維が太すぎて、
良好な外観及び風合のピーチ調にならないので、好まし
くない。また、極細繊維の熱水収縮率は、10%以下で
ある。 極細繊維の熱水収縮率が10%を超えると、潜在捲縮性
複合型繊維との見掛け上の熱水収縮率差が十分でなく、
極細繊維の起毛状態が悪くなるので、好ましくない。こ
こで、熱水収縮率の測定方法は以下のとおりである。即
ち、繊維の一旦を固定し、他端に1/10(g/d)の
初荷重を与え、正しく500mmを計って2点に印を付
ける。この後、初荷重をとって沸騰水中に30分間浸漬
した後、取り出して軽く吸取紙又は布で水を切り、水平
状態で自然乾燥する。その後、再び初荷重を掛けて前記
2点間の長さlmmを図る。以上のlmmの測定を各1
0回行い、そして式〔(500−l)/500〕×10
0で収縮率を算出し、その平均値を熱水収縮率(%)と
する。
The ultrafine fiber has a fineness of less than 0.5 denier and a hot water shrinkage rate of 10% or less. Fineness of ultra-fine fiber is 0.5
If it is more than denier, the brushed ultra-fine fibers will be too thick,
This is not preferable because it does not give a peach tone with good appearance and texture. Further, the hot water shrinkage rate of the ultrafine fiber is 10% or less. When the hot water shrinkage rate of the ultrafine fiber exceeds 10%, the apparent difference in the hot water shrinkage rate from the latent crimp composite fiber is not sufficient.
This is not preferable because the raised state of the ultrafine fibers becomes poor. Here, the method for measuring the hot water shrinkage rate is as follows. That is, the fiber is fixed once, an initial load of 1/10 (g/d) is applied to the other end, and 500 mm is accurately measured and two points are marked. Thereafter, the initial load is removed and the sample is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes, then taken out, lightly drained with absorbent paper or cloth, and air-dried in a horizontal position. After that, the initial load is applied again to measure the length 1 mm between the two points. Each of the above lmm measurements
Perform 0 times, and use the formula [(500-l)/500] x 10
The shrinkage rate is calculated at 0, and the average value is taken as the hot water shrinkage rate (%).

【0010】極細繊維の組成としては、従来公知の種々
の組成のものが用いられるが、特に本発明においてはポ
リエチレンテレフタレート系極細繊維を用いるのが好ま
しい。
[0010] As the composition of the ultrafine fibers, various conventionally known compositions can be used, but it is particularly preferable to use polyethylene terephthalate type ultrafine fibers in the present invention.

【0011】本発明で用いるB糸条は、潜在捲縮性複合
型繊維で構成されている。例えば、潜在捲縮性複合型繊
維よりなるモノフィラメントが複数本集束されてなるマ
ルチフィラメント糸条が、本発明においてB糸条として
使用される。また、潜在捲縮性複合型繊維は、第一成分
と、この第一成分とは沸水収縮率の異なる第二成分とが
、組み合わされてなるものである。組み合わせ方は、第
一成分と第二成分の沸水収縮率差によって、繊維にスパ
イラル状等の捲縮が生じるようにしなければならない。 具体的には、サイドバイサイド型や偏心芯鞘型が採用さ
れる。
[0011] The B yarn used in the present invention is composed of a latent crimp composite fiber. For example, a multifilament yarn formed by bundling a plurality of monofilaments made of latent crimp composite fibers is used as the B yarn in the present invention. Further, the latent crimpable composite fiber is a combination of a first component and a second component having a boiling water shrinkage rate different from that of the first component. The combination must be such that the fibers are crimped in a spiral shape or the like due to the difference in shrinkage rate in boiling water between the first and second components. Specifically, a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type is adopted.

【0012】また、本発明において重要なことは、この
潜在捲縮性複合型繊維が以下に示すような捲縮性能を持
っていなければならないことである。即ち、沸水30分
処理後の弾性率が70%以上で且つ沸水30分処理後の
捲縮率が50%以上でなければならない。ここで、沸水
30分処理後の弾性率とは、次に示す方法で測定される
ものである。即ち、検尺機にて5回かせ取りした潜在捲
縮性複合型繊維を二重にして、1/6000(g/d)
の荷重をかけてスタンドに吊り、更に1/10(g/d
)の荷重をかけ、長さ(a)を測定する。続いて、1/
6000(g/d)の荷重をかけたまま30分間放置し
、次いでこの状態を維持したまま沸水中に入れ30分間
処理する。その後、30分間風乾し、1/500(g/
d)の荷重をかけ、長さ(b)を測定する。次に、1/
500(g/d)の荷重をはずした後、1/20(g/
d)の荷重をかけて、その長さ(c)を測定する。更に
、1/20(g/d)の荷重をはずし、再び1/500
(g/d)の荷重をかけ、その長さ(d)を測定する。 そして、次の式によって弾性率を求めるのである。即ち
、弾性率(%)=[(c−d)/(c−b)]×100
である。また、沸水30分処理後の捲縮率は、上記で求
めた長さを用いて、次の式によって求められるものであ
る。即ち、捲縮率(%)=[(c−b)/c]×100
である。本発明において、潜在捲縮性複合型繊維の沸水
30分処理後の弾性率が70%未満の場合には、捲縮発
現後の繊維の伸長回復性が低く、したがって得られる編
地の伸長回復性も低く、編地に良好な伸縮性を付与しに
くくなるので、好ましくない。また、潜在捲縮性複合型
繊維の沸水30分処理後の捲縮率が50%未満の場合に
は、潜在捲縮性複合型繊維の捲縮発現による見掛けの収
縮率が少なく、編地表面における極細繊維の起毛状態が
悪くなり、良好なピーチ調とならないため、好ましくな
い。また、潜在捲縮性複合型繊維の繊度が2.0デニー
ル未満になると、得られる編地は張り及び腰に欠けたも
のとなるばかりでなく、捲縮発現による収縮応力も低く
なり、編地表面における極細繊維の起毛状態が悪くなり
、好ましくない。
Furthermore, what is important in the present invention is that the latent crimpable composite fiber must have the following crimpability. That is, the elastic modulus after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment must be 70% or more, and the crimp ratio after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment must be 50% or more. Here, the elastic modulus after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment is measured by the following method. In other words, the latent crimp composite fibers, which have been skeined 5 times using a measuring machine, are doubled to obtain 1/6000 (g/d).
Hang it on a stand with a load of 1/10 (g/d
) and measure the length (a). Next, 1/
The specimen was left to stand for 30 minutes with a load of 6000 (g/d) applied thereto, and then placed in boiling water while maintaining this state for treatment for 30 minutes. After that, air dry for 30 minutes, 1/500 (g/
Apply the load d) and measure the length (b). Next, 1/
After removing the load of 500 (g/d), the load of 1/20 (g/d)
Apply the load d) and measure the length (c). Furthermore, the load of 1/20 (g/d) was removed and the load was increased to 1/500 again.
Apply a load of (g/d) and measure the length (d). Then, the elastic modulus is determined using the following formula. That is, elastic modulus (%) = [(c-d)/(c-b)] x 100
It is. Further, the crimp ratio after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment is determined by the following formula using the length determined above. That is, crimp rate (%) = [(c-b)/c] x 100
It is. In the present invention, if the elastic modulus of the latent crimpable composite fiber after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment is less than 70%, the elongation recovery of the fiber after crimping is low, and therefore the elongation recovery of the resulting knitted fabric is low. It is not preferable because it has low elasticity and makes it difficult to impart good stretchability to the knitted fabric. In addition, if the crimp rate of the latent crimp composite fiber after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment is less than 50%, the apparent shrinkage rate due to the development of crimp in the latent crimp composite fiber is small, and the knitted fabric surface This is undesirable because the raised state of the ultrafine fibers in the process deteriorates and a good peach tone cannot be obtained. In addition, when the fineness of the latent crimp composite fiber is less than 2.0 denier, the resulting knitted fabric not only lacks tension and stiffness, but also has low shrinkage stress due to crimp development, and the knitted fabric surface The raised state of the ultrafine fibers becomes poor, which is not preferable.

【0013】上記したような捲縮性能を持つ潜在捲縮性
複合型繊維を構成する各成分としては、繊維形成能を有
する任意の高分子を採用することができる。本発明にお
いて好適に使用される潜在捲縮性複合型繊維は、一般的
に、極限粘度[η]の高いポリエステル系第一成分と、
極限粘度[η]の低いポリエステル系第二成分とが、サ
イドバイサイド型に接合されたポリエステル系繊維であ
る。具体的には、極限粘度[η]が0.75以上のポリ
エステル系第一成分と、極限粘度「η」が0.50以下
の第二成分とが、サイドバイサイド型に接合されたポリ
エステル系繊維が好適に使用しうる。極限粘度「η」が
0.75以上のポリエステル系第一成分は、例えば、構
造単位の85モル%以上がポリエチレンテレフタレート
であり、他の15モル%以下が他のポリエステルである
重合体を使用して得ることができる。また、極限粘度[
η]が0.50以下の第二成分は、例えば、構造単位の
95モル%がポリエチレンテレフタレートである重合体
を使用して得ることができる。なお、ここで言う極限粘
度[η]は、20℃のフェノールとテトラクロロエタン
との等重量混合溶媒中で測定したものである。
[0013] As each component constituting the latent crimpable composite fiber having crimpability as described above, any polymer having fiber-forming ability can be employed. The latent crimp composite fiber preferably used in the present invention generally includes a polyester first component having a high intrinsic viscosity [η],
The second polyester component having a low intrinsic viscosity [η] is a polyester fiber joined side-by-side. Specifically, a polyester fiber in which a first polyester component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.75 or more and a second component having an intrinsic viscosity "η" of 0.50 or less are joined side-by-side. It can be suitably used. The first polyester component having an intrinsic viscosity "η" of 0.75 or more is, for example, a polymer in which 85 mol% or more of the structural units are polyethylene terephthalate and the other 15 mol% or less are other polyesters. You can get it. In addition, the intrinsic viscosity [
[eta] of 0.50 or less can be obtained, for example, by using a polymer in which 95 mol% of the structural units are polyethylene terephthalate. Note that the intrinsic viscosity [η] referred to here is measured in a mixed solvent of equal weights of phenol and tetrachloroethane at 20°C.

【0014】次に、前記したA糸条とB糸条とを用い、
A糸条が表側となり、B糸条が裏側(A糸条による編目
の内側)となるように添糸編で編成することにより、A
糸条が均一に表側に配置され、B糸条が均一に裏側に配
置されるのである。これが例えば、添糸編で編成せずに
A糸条とB糸条とを単に引き揃えて編成した場合には、
反転現象が生じ、A糸条が均一に表側に配置されない。 具体的に添糸編で編成するには、編機の2穴給糸口にA
糸条とB糸条とを別個に規則正しく配列し、糸条の張力
や編針に対する糸条の入角度を均一にして行なうことに
よって、A糸条及びB糸条が均一に配置された編地を編
成することができる。添糸編によって編地を編成する際
、A糸条とB糸条の総繊度の割合は、A糸条:B糸条=
1〜3:1であるのが好ましい。この範囲を超えてA糸
条の割合を少なくすると、添糸編の際に反転現象が生じ
たり、或いは編疵が生じたりする傾向が出てくる。また
、この範囲を超えてA糸条の割合を多くすると、得られ
る編地の張りや腰が十分でなくなる場合が出てくる。
Next, using the above-mentioned A yarn and B yarn,
By knitting with plating so that the A yarn is on the front side and the B yarn is on the back side (inside the stitches made of A yarn),
The yarns are uniformly arranged on the front side, and the B yarns are uniformly arranged on the back side. For example, when knitting is done by simply pulling A yarn and B yarn together without knitting with plating,
A reversal phenomenon occurs and the A yarns are not uniformly arranged on the front side. Specifically, to knit with plating, insert A into the two-hole yarn feeder of the knitting machine.
By arranging the yarns and B yarns separately and regularly, and making the tension of the yarns and the angle of entry of the yarns to the knitting needles uniform, it is possible to create a knitted fabric in which the A yarns and B yarns are evenly arranged. can be organized. When knitting a knitted fabric by plating, the ratio of the total fineness of A yarn and B yarn is A yarn: B yarn =
Preferably, the ratio is 1 to 3:1. If the proportion of the A yarn is reduced beyond this range, there is a tendency for an inversion phenomenon to occur during plating or knitting flaws. Furthermore, if the proportion of A yarn is increased beyond this range, the resulting knitted fabric may not have sufficient tension or stiffness.

【0015】以上の如き方法で編地が編成された後、こ
の編地を熱処理して収縮させる。熱処理は、一般的に、
編地を熱水中に浸漬して行なう。熱水は、70℃以上の
ものを使用するのが好ましい。熱水の温度が70℃未満
の場合には、潜在捲縮性複合型繊維が十分に捲縮発現せ
ず、得られる編地に十分な張りや腰を付与しにくくなり
、更にはボリューム感を付与しにくくなる傾向が生じる
。また、A糸条を構成する極細繊維が編地の表面に現出
しにくくなる傾向が生じる。この熱水による収縮は、編
地の染色加工工程中におけるリラックス精練装置、拡布
連続式低張力型リラックス機或いは液流染色機等を使用
して行なってもよい。この処理の後、できるだけ張力を
かけずに80〜130℃程度の温度で乾燥を行ない、続
いて必要に応じて中間セット等を行なった後、通常の染
色を行なうのが、一般的である。
After the knitted fabric is knitted by the method described above, the knitted fabric is heat-treated to shrink. Heat treatment is generally
This is done by immersing the knitted fabric in hot water. It is preferable to use hot water with a temperature of 70°C or higher. If the temperature of the hot water is less than 70°C, the latent crimpable composite fibers will not develop sufficient crimp, making it difficult to impart sufficient tension and elasticity to the resulting knitted fabric, and furthermore, it will be difficult to provide sufficient tension and elasticity to the resulting knitted fabric. There is a tendency for it to become difficult to apply. Furthermore, the ultrafine fibers constituting the A yarn tend to be less likely to appear on the surface of the knitted fabric. This shrinkage with hot water may be carried out using a relaxation scouring device, a continuous spreading type low tension type relaxing machine, a jet dyeing machine, etc. during the dyeing process of the knitted fabric. After this treatment, it is common to dry at a temperature of about 80 to 130° C. without applying tension as much as possible, and then, if necessary, perform intermediate setting, etc., and then carry out normal dyeing.

【0016】A糸条として複数本の極細繊維(1b)が
接合されてなる分割型繊維で構成されたものを用いた場
合には、この熱水収縮前に分割しておくのが好ましい。 分割手段は従来公知の方法を採用しうる。例えば、図1
に示す如き分割型繊維であって、極細繊維(1b)とし
てポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維、接合剤(1a)と
してポリエチレングリコールとポリエステルとの混合物
を使用した場合には、アルカリ溶液によって接合剤(1
a)を溶解除去し、ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維を
分割するのが好ましい。図1に示す如き分割型繊維の場
合、アルカリ溶液による溶解除去量、即ち減量率は15
〜30重量%程度、好ましくは20〜25重量%程度が
良い。減量率が15重量%未満の場合、分割型繊維の分
割が十分に行われず、手触りの良好なピーチ調とならな
い傾向が生じる。また、減量率が30重量%を超えると
、分割は良好に行われるものの、極細繊維も若干溶解さ
れ、得られたピーチ調編地の強力が低下する傾向が生じ
る。
[0016] When a yarn A made of a splittable fiber formed by joining a plurality of ultrafine fibers (1b) is used, it is preferable to split the fiber before the hot water shrinkage. A conventionally known method can be used as the dividing means. For example, Figure 1
In the case of splittable fibers as shown in Figure 1, in which polyethylene terephthalate fibers are used as the ultrafine fibers (1b) and a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyester is used as the binder (1a), the binder (1a) is mixed with an alkaline solution.
It is preferable to dissolve and remove a) and split the polyethylene terephthalate fibers. In the case of split type fibers as shown in Figure 1, the amount removed by dissolution by alkaline solution, that is, the weight loss rate is 15
About 30% by weight, preferably about 20 to 25% by weight. When the weight loss rate is less than 15% by weight, the splittable fibers are not sufficiently split, and there is a tendency that a peach tone with a good texture may not be obtained. Furthermore, when the weight loss rate exceeds 30% by weight, although the division is performed well, the ultrafine fibers are also slightly dissolved, and the strength of the obtained peach-like knitted fabric tends to decrease.

【0017】以上のようにして、ピーチ調編地が得られ
るわけであるが、編地表面のピーチ調をさらに強調する
ために、起毛加工を施してもよい。起毛加工は、エメリ
ー起毛、針布起毛、水中起毛等の従来公知の起毛加工法
を採用することができる。この起毛加工は、熱水収縮処
理後であれば、染色前であってもよいし、染色後であっ
てもよい。
As described above, a peach-like knitted fabric is obtained, but in order to further emphasize the peach-like texture on the surface of the knitted fabric, a napping process may be applied. For the raising process, conventionally known raising methods such as emery raising, needle cloth raising, underwater raising, etc. can be employed. This raising process may be performed before or after dyeing as long as it is after hot water shrinkage treatment.

【0018】[0018]

【実施例】実施例 A糸条としては、図1に示す如き分割型繊維より構成さ
れた70デニール/48フィラメントのマルチフィラメ
ントを仮撚加工した仮撚加工糸条を用いた。ここで、楔
状の極細繊維(1b)の成分は、極限粘度[η]0.6
7のポリエチレンテレフタレートであり、極細繊維(1
b)を接合している接合剤(1a)の成分は分子量60
00のポリエチレングリコール23重量%及びスルホイ
ソフタル酸2モル%からなる共重合ポリエステルである
。また、極細繊維(1b)と接合剤(1a)の重量割合
は、極細繊維(1b):接合剤(1a)=4:1である
。なお、極細繊維(1b)の繊度は0.13デニールで
あり、熱水収縮率は5%であった。
EXAMPLES Example A A false twisted yarn obtained by false twisting a 70 denier/48 filament multifilament made of splittable fibers as shown in FIG. 1 was used as the yarn. Here, the component of the wedge-shaped ultrafine fiber (1b) has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.6
7 polyethylene terephthalate, ultrafine fiber (1
The component of the bonding agent (1a) that bonds b) has a molecular weight of 60
This is a copolymerized polyester consisting of 23% by weight of polyethylene glycol No. 00 and 2% by mole of sulfoisophthalic acid. Further, the weight ratio of the ultrafine fiber (1b) to the bonding agent (1a) is 4:1. The fineness of the ultrafine fiber (1b) was 0.13 denier, and the hot water shrinkage rate was 5%.

【0019】B糸条としては、極限粘度[η]0.76
のポリエステル系第一成分(12モル%のイソフタル酸
成分及び88モル%のテレフタル酸成分と、ジエチレン
グリコール等のジオール成分とよりなるポリエステル)
と、極限粘度[η]0.49のポリエステル系第二成分
とを用いて、溶融複合紡糸法でサイドバイサイド型の潜
在捲縮性複合型ポリエステル系繊維よりなる50デニー
ル/12フィラメントのマルチフィラメント糸条を使用
した。この潜在捲縮性複合型ポリエステル系繊維の沸水
30分処理後の弾性率は80%であり、沸水30分処理
後の捲縮率は69.5%であった。
[0019] The B yarn has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.76.
Polyester-based first component (polyester consisting of 12 mol% isophthalic acid component, 88 mol% terephthalic acid component, and diol component such as diethylene glycol)
and a polyester second component with an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.49 to produce a 50 denier/12 filament multifilament yarn made of side-by-side latent crimp composite polyester fiber using a melt composite spinning method. It was used. The elastic modulus of this latent crimpable composite polyester fiber after being treated with boiling water for 30 minutes was 80%, and the crimp rate after being treated with boiling water for 30 minutes was 69.5%.

【0020】前記のA糸条とB糸条を用いて、図3に示
す編組織で且つ以下に示す給糸法で給糸して編地を編成
した。即ち、第1F及び第6FにはB糸条のみを給糸し
、第2F,第3F,第4F,第5F,第7F,第8F,
第9F,第10Fには図4に示す如く2穴給糸口を用い
て、A糸条とB糸条とを別々の穴に給糸し、編地の表面
にA糸条のみが配列された編地を得た。なお、以上の編
成は、福原精機製ダブルニット機LPJ−H 型を用い
、釜径33”,ゲージ28G で編成した。
A knitted fabric was knitted using the A yarn and B yarn described above, with the knitting structure shown in FIG. 3, and by feeding the yarn according to the yarn feeding method shown below. That is, only the B yarn is fed to the 1st and 6th F, and the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 7th, 8th,
For the 9th and 10th floors, a two-hole yarn feeder was used as shown in Figure 4 to feed A yarn and B yarn into separate holes, so that only A yarn was arranged on the surface of the knitted fabric. I got the knitted fabric. The above knitting was performed using a double knitting machine LPJ-H type manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki, with a hook diameter of 33'' and a gauge of 28G.

【0021】このようにして得られた編地を、株式会社
日阪製作所製サーキュラー染色試験機にて、苛性ソーダ
15g/lとサンモールFL(日華化学株式会社製、界
面活性剤)1g/lで、浴比1:30でリラックス精練
を兼ねて、A糸条を構成する分割型繊維の接合剤(1a
)を溶解除去し、図2に示す如き極細繊維の束に分割し
た。そして、その後常法で染色仕上加工を行ない、この
際に編地を熱水で収縮させて伸縮性ピーチ調編地を得た
。この伸縮性ピーチ調編地は、張り及び腰に優れ、編地
表面のタッチ感も良好なものであった。また、経方向の
伸長率は15.6%,伸長回復率は98%であり、緯方
向の伸長率は21.2%,伸長回復率は97%であり、
伸縮性に優れたものであった。なお、伸長率及び伸長回
復率は、JIS L−1018法に基づいて測定したも
のである。
The knitted fabric thus obtained was dyed in a circular dyeing tester manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd. with 15 g/l of caustic soda and 1 g/l of Sunmoor FL (manufactured by Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd., surfactant). Then, at a bath ratio of 1:30, a binder (1a
) was dissolved and removed and divided into bundles of ultrafine fibers as shown in FIG. Thereafter, dyeing and finishing were carried out in a conventional manner, and at this time the knitted fabric was shrunk with hot water to obtain a stretchable peach-like knitted fabric. This stretchable peach-like knitted fabric had excellent tension and elasticity, and the surface of the knitted fabric had a good touch feeling. In addition, the elongation rate in the warp direction is 15.6% and the elongation recovery rate is 98%, and the elongation rate in the latitudinal direction is 21.2% and the elongation recovery rate is 97%.
It had excellent elasticity. Note that the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate were measured based on JIS L-1018 method.

【0022】比較例 実施例において使用した潜在捲縮性複合型ポリエステル
系繊維に代えて、ポリエチレンテレフタレートとイソフ
タル酸10モル%との共重合体成分のみよりなるポリエ
ステル系繊維を使用し、30デニール/12フィラメン
トとしたものをB糸条として用いた。このB糸条を用い
、その他は実施例と同様の方法でピーチ調編地を得た。 なお、このポリエステル系繊維は、潜在捲縮性のもので
はなく捲縮性能の全くないものであり、単に熱水収縮率
が25%のものであった。得られたピーチ調編地は、張
り及び腰に優れ、編地表面のタッチ感も良好であった。 しかし、経方向の伸長率は3.6%,伸長回復率は89
%であり、緯方向の伸長率は6.7%,伸長回復率は8
6%であり、伸縮性に劣るものであった。
Comparative Example Instead of the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber used in the example, a polyester fiber consisting only of a copolymer component of polyethylene terephthalate and 10 mol% of isophthalic acid was used. 12 filaments were used as the B yarn. Using this B yarn, a peach-like knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in the example. Note that this polyester fiber was not latent crimpable and had no crimpability at all, and merely had a hot water shrinkage rate of 25%. The obtained peach-like knitted fabric had excellent tension and stiffness, and the surface of the knitted fabric had a good touch feeling. However, the elongation rate in the longitudinal direction was 3.6%, and the elongation recovery rate was 89%.
%, the elongation rate in the latitudinal direction is 6.7%, and the elongation recovery rate is 8.
The elasticity was 6%, and the elasticity was poor.

【0023】[0023]

【発明の効果】以上説明したように、本発明に係る伸縮
性ピーチ調編地の製造方法は、極細繊維で構成されたA
糸条を表側とし、潜在捲縮性繊維で構成されたB糸条を
裏側として、添糸編で編成した編地を用い、この編地に
熱処理を施すことにより収縮させるというものである。 この際、潜在捲縮性繊維の捲縮発現による見掛けの収縮
率は、極細繊維の収縮率よりも大であるため、収縮率の
少ない極細繊維は編地表面に浮き出し、編地表面に極め
て良好なピーチ感を与えることができ、また収縮によっ
て編地に張り及び腰を与えることができる。そして、こ
の編地には潜在捲縮性繊維が編み込まれているため、従
来の高収縮繊維による編地の収縮と違い、捲縮発現によ
る見掛けの収縮を利用していることになる。即ち、見掛
けの繊維長が縮んだだけで、実際の繊維長はそれよりも
長いため、編地に優れた伸縮性を与えることができるの
である。
Effects of the Invention As explained above, the method for producing a stretchable peach-like knitted fabric according to the present invention can be applied to
A knitted fabric is used, which is knitted by plating, with the yarn on the front side and the B yarn made of latent crimpable fibers on the back side, and this knitted fabric is subjected to heat treatment to cause it to shrink. At this time, the apparent shrinkage rate of the latent crimpable fibers due to crimping is greater than the shrinkage rate of the ultrafine fibers, so the ultrafine fibers with a low shrinkage rate stand out on the surface of the knitted fabric, making it extremely suitable for the surface of the knitted fabric. It can give a peach feel, and it can also give tension and elasticity to the knitted fabric by shrinking. Since this knitted fabric is woven with latent crimpable fibers, the apparent shrinkage due to crimp development is utilized, unlike the shrinkage of knitted fabrics caused by conventional high shrinkage fibers. That is, even though the apparent fiber length is only shortened, the actual fiber length is longer than that, so it is possible to impart excellent stretchability to the knitted fabric.

【0024】従って、本発明に係る方法によれば、従来
法の如く、機械的な起毛加工を施さなくとも、ピーチ調
編地を得ることができ、更に伸縮性に優れたピーチ調編
地を得ることができるという効果を奏する。また、編地
表面に捲縮発現した繊維が混入して起毛されるというこ
とが少なく、手触りの良いピーチ調を表現することがで
きると共に、捲縮発現した繊維によるピリングの発生を
防止しうるという効果を奏する。更に、この編地に染色
加工した場合には、表面に捲縮発現した繊維が殆ど混入
しておらず、極細繊維のみが主として存在しているため
、編地表面の均一な染色が可能となり、いらつき現象が
生じにくくなるという効果も奏する。
Therefore, according to the method of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a peach-like knitted fabric without mechanical raising processing as in the conventional method, and furthermore, it is possible to obtain a peach-like knitted fabric with excellent elasticity. It has the effect that it can be obtained. In addition, crimped fibers are less likely to get mixed into the surface of the knitted fabric and become fluffy, making it possible to express a peach tone with a pleasant texture, and to prevent the occurrence of pilling caused by crimped fibers. be effective. Furthermore, when this knitted fabric is dyed, there are almost no crimped fibers mixed on the surface, and only ultrafine fibers are present, so the surface of the knitted fabric can be dyed uniformly. This also has the effect of making it difficult for irritability to occur.

【0025】依って、本発明に係る方法で得られたピー
チ調編地は、優れた伸縮性,風合,物性を具備し、各種
の衣料用途に好適に使用することができるものである。
Therefore, the peach-like knitted fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention has excellent elasticity, feel, and physical properties, and can be suitably used for various clothing applications.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of drawings]

【図1】本発明に用いる分割型繊維の一例であり、その
横断面図である。
FIG. 1 is an example of a splittable fiber used in the present invention, and is a cross-sectional view thereof.

【図2】図1に示した分割型繊維が分割された状態を示
す横断面図である。
FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing a state in which the splittable fiber shown in FIG. 1 is split.

【図3】本発明に用いる編組織の一例を示す図である。FIG. 3 is a diagram showing an example of a knitting structure used in the present invention.

【図4】本発明に用いる編成法の一例を示した概略図で
ある。
FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the knitting method used in the present invention.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

1b  極細繊維 A  A糸条 B  B糸条 1b Ultrafine fiber A A yarn B B yarn

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】  繊度0.5デニール未満で熱水収縮率
が10%以下の極細繊維よりなる糸条(以下、「A糸条
」と言う。)と、繊度2.0デニール以上で、沸水30
分処理後の弾性率が70%以上で且つ沸水30分処理後
の捲縮率が50%以上の捲縮性能を有する潜在捲縮性複
合型繊維よりなる糸条(以下、「B糸条」と言う。)と
を用い、添糸編によってA糸条を表側に位置せしめ、B
糸条を裏側に位置せしめるように製編して編地を得、該
編地を熱処理することにより、該極細繊維と該潜在捲縮
性複合型繊維の収縮差によって、該編地の表側において
該極細繊維群が起毛状態となり、且つ該潜在捲縮性複合
型繊維の捲縮発現によって該編地に良好な伸縮性能が付
与されることを特徴とする伸縮性ピーチ調編地の製造方
法。
Claim 1: A yarn made of ultrafine fibers with a fineness of less than 0.5 denier and a hot water shrinkage rate of 10% or less (hereinafter referred to as "A yarn"), and a yarn with a fineness of 2.0 denier or more and a hot water shrinkage rate of 10% or less. 30
A yarn (hereinafter referred to as "B yarn") made of a latent crimpable composite fiber that has a crimp performance with an elastic modulus of 70% or more after treatment with boiling water and a crimp rate of 50% or more after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes. ), position the A yarn on the front side by plating, and
A knitted fabric is obtained by knitting so that the yarn is positioned on the back side, and by heat-treating the knitted fabric, the difference in shrinkage between the ultrafine fibers and the latent crimpable composite fibers causes the front side of the knitted fabric to A method for producing a stretchable peach-like knitted fabric, characterized in that the ultrafine fiber group is in a raised state, and the knitted fabric is imparted with good stretch performance by crimping of the latent crimpable composite fibers.
JP16633691A 1991-06-10 1991-06-10 Method for producing stretchable peach-like knitted fabric Expired - Fee Related JP3023896B2 (en)

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JP16633691A JP3023896B2 (en) 1991-06-10 1991-06-10 Method for producing stretchable peach-like knitted fabric

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP16633691A JP3023896B2 (en) 1991-06-10 1991-06-10 Method for producing stretchable peach-like knitted fabric

Publications (2)

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JPH04361650A true JPH04361650A (en) 1992-12-15
JP3023896B2 JP3023896B2 (en) 2000-03-21

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPWO2003004747A1 (en) * 2001-07-04 2004-10-28 旭化成せんい株式会社 Warp knitted fabric
JP2008248445A (en) * 2007-03-30 2008-10-16 Teijin Fibers Ltd Polyester knitted fabric and method for producing the same and fiber product
JP6302609B1 (en) * 2016-09-20 2018-03-28 東洋紡Stc株式会社 Business suit knitted fabric
WO2023034102A1 (en) * 2021-08-30 2023-03-09 The Lycra Company Uk Limited Breathable double-knit or interlock elastic fabric with single component material

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPWO2003004747A1 (en) * 2001-07-04 2004-10-28 旭化成せんい株式会社 Warp knitted fabric
JP2008248445A (en) * 2007-03-30 2008-10-16 Teijin Fibers Ltd Polyester knitted fabric and method for producing the same and fiber product
JP6302609B1 (en) * 2016-09-20 2018-03-28 東洋紡Stc株式会社 Business suit knitted fabric
WO2018056303A1 (en) * 2016-09-20 2018-03-29 東洋紡Stc株式会社 Fabric for business suits
WO2023034102A1 (en) * 2021-08-30 2023-03-09 The Lycra Company Uk Limited Breathable double-knit or interlock elastic fabric with single component material

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