JP3023896B2 - Method for producing stretchable peach-like knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a peach-like knitted fabric having excellent stretchability and stretch recovery properties, that is, excellent stretchability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Peach-like knitted fabrics in which the surface of the knitted fabric exhibits a raised state like a peach skin are widely used mainly for clothing because of their good feel such as touch. Conventionally, this peach-like knitted fabric has been produced by knitting a knitted fabric using a thread composed of ultrafine fibers having a fineness of 1.0 denier or less, and raising the knitted fabric by mechanical means or the like. However, because of the use of ultrafine fibers having a small fineness, even when knitting with a high gauge knitting machine or the like at a high density, sufficient knitting or waist could not be given to the knitted fabric.

[0003] For this reason, knitted fabrics are knitted by using yarns in which ultrafine fibers and thick fine fibers are combined, and then the knitted fabric is raised by mechanical means or the like. As a method of combining ultrafine fibers and large fineness fibers,
(i) simply aligning both fibers, (ii) ply twisting both fibers,
(iii) a method of coating ultrafine fibers on the surface of a large fineness fiber by a single covering method or a double covering method, and (iv) air entanglement of both fibers. However, even if both fibers are combined by any of these methods, it is difficult to raise only the ultrafine fibers by mechanical means, and the fine fibers may be raised at the same time. Therefore,
A peach-like knitted fabric with an excellent touch could not be obtained. In addition, when these knitted fabrics were dyed, the surface of the knitted fabric was liable to cause an irritating phenomenon. This is because there is a difference in dyeability between the ultrafine fibers and the large fineness fibers existing on the surface of the knitted fabric. Furthermore, if the fine-fiber fibers are raised on the surface of the knitted fabric, pilling may easily occur.

In order to avoid the above-mentioned drawbacks, the present applicant has proposed the following knitted fabric manufacturing method (Japanese Patent Application No. Hei.
No. 56939). That is, a knitted fabric is knitted by combining a microfiber having a small hot water shrinkage ratio and a large fineness fiber having a large hot water shrinkage ratio, and by shrinking the knitted fabric with hot water, the ultrafine fibers are unevenly distributed on the surface, Then, a method for producing a knitted fabric in which this is raised to raise only the ultrafine fibers was proposed.

[0005] However, the knitted fabric obtained by this method has a very high-density knitted fabric due to the large fineness fiber having a high hot water shrinkage, and has a small elasticity and a stable dimensionality. Therefore, this knitted fabric may be unsuitable for some applications requiring elasticity. For example, clothing made of this knitted fabric may give discomfort when worn, and may be prone to dropout of the knee or dropout of the elbow.

[0006]

Therefore, the present invention is based on the invention of Japanese Patent Application No. 2-56939 described above, and
-Use a latently crimpable conjugate fiber having a specific crimp performance in place of the large fineness fiber used in the invention according to -56939 to give good stretchability to the obtained peach-like knitted fabric It is assumed that.

[0007]

That is, the present invention provides a fineness of 0.1.
A yarn (hereinafter, referred to as "A yarn") composed of ultrafine fibers having a hot water shrinkage of less than 5 deniers and 10% or less, and a denier of 2.0 denier or more and an elastic modulus of 70% after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes. A yarn composed of a latent crimpable conjugate fiber having a crimping performance of 50% or more after the above-described treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes (hereinafter referred to as "B yarn") is added. The knitted fabric is obtained by knitting so that the A yarn is positioned on the front side and the B yarn is positioned on the back side by yarn knitting, and the knitted fabric is heat-treated to obtain the ultrafine fiber and the latently crimpable composite. The difference in shrinkage of the mold fibers causes the ultrafine fibers to be in a raised state on the front side of the knitted fabric, and that the knitted fabric has good stretchability by crimping of the latently crimpable conjugated fiber. The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretchable peach-like knitted fabric.

The A yarn used in the present invention is made of ultrafine fibers having a fineness of less than 0.5 denier and a hot water shrinkage of 10% or less. Specifically, a multifilament yarn having the ultrafine fiber as a constituent fiber, or a false twisted yarn obtained by false twisting the multifilament yarn, a knit de-nitted yarn, an air-processed yarn Are used as the A yarn. In particular, the use of false twisted yarn is preferable because a knitted fabric having a good feeling can be obtained. In addition, when constituting the A yarn, it is also possible to use the ultrafine fiber alone to form the A yarn,
The A yarn may be formed by using a split type fiber obtained by bonding about 3 to 10 ultrafine fibers with a bonding agent. Various conventionally known splitting fibers can be used. For example, as shown in FIG. 1, a plurality of wedge-shaped ultrafine fibers (1b) bonded with a bonding agent (1a) can be used. From this splittable fiber, the bonding agent (1
If a) is removed, the splittable fibers are split into bundles of ultrafine fibers as shown in FIG.

The microfiber has a fineness of less than 0.5 denier and a hot water shrinkage of 10% or less. If the fineness of the ultrafine fibers is 0.5 denier or more, the brushed ultrafine fibers are too thick and do not have a good appearance and a feeling of peach, which is not preferable. The hot water shrinkage of the ultrafine fibers is 10% or less.
If the hot water shrinkage of the ultrafine fiber exceeds 10%, the apparent hot water shrinkage difference from the latently crimpable conjugated fiber is not sufficient, and the state of raising the ultrafine fiber is unfavorably deteriorated. Here, the measuring method of the hot water shrinkage ratio is as follows. That is, once the fiber is fixed, an initial load of 1/10 (g / d) is applied to the other end, 500 mm is correctly measured, and two points are marked. Then, after taking an initial load and immersing it in boiling water for 30 minutes, take it out, lightly drain it with blotting paper or cloth, and air dry naturally in a horizontal state. Thereafter, an initial load is applied again to obtain a length lmm between the two points. The above lmm measurement is performed 10 times each, and the shrinkage is calculated by the formula [(500-1) / 500] × 100, and the average value is defined as the hot water shrinkage (%).

As the composition of the ultrafine fibers, various known compositions can be used. In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to use polyethylene terephthalate-based ultrafine fibers.

The B yarn used in the present invention is composed of latently crimpable conjugate fiber. For example, a multifilament yarn obtained by bundling a plurality of monofilaments composed of latently crimpable conjugate fibers is used as the B yarn in the present invention. The latently crimpable conjugate fiber is a combination of a first component and a second component having a different boiling water shrinkage from the first component. How to combine
The fibers must be crimped, such as in a spiral, due to the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the first component and the second component. Specifically, a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type is adopted.

What is important in the present invention is that the latently crimpable conjugate fiber must have the following crimping performance. That is, the modulus of elasticity after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes must be 70% or more, and the crimp rate after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes must be 50% or more. Here, the elastic modulus after the boiling water treatment for 30 minutes is measured by the following method. That is, the latently crimpable conjugated fiber skewed five times with a measuring machine was doubled, suspended on a stand with a load of 1/6000 (g / d), and further 1/10 (g / d ) Load, length (a)
Is measured. Then, with a load of 1/6000 (g / d) applied, 30
After leaving it in this state, it is placed in boiling water and treated for 30 minutes. Then air dry for 30 minutes, 1/500 (g / d)
And a length (b) is measured. Next, 1/500 (g /
After removing the load of d), apply a 1/20 (g / d) load and measure the length (c). Further, the load of 1/20 (g / d) is removed, a load of 1/500 (g / d) is applied again, and the length (d) is measured. Then, the elastic modulus is determined by the following equation. That is, the elastic modulus (%) = [(cd) / (c−
b)] × 100. Further, the crimp rate after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes can be obtained by the following equation using the length obtained above. That is, the crimp rate (%) = [(c−b) /
c] × 100. In the present invention, when the modulus of elasticity of the latently crimpable conjugate fiber after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is less than 70%,
It is not preferable because the stretch recovery of the fiber after the onset of crimp is low, and the stretch recovery of the obtained knitted fabric is also low, and it becomes difficult to impart good stretchability to the knitted fabric. When the latently crimpable conjugate fiber has a crimp rate of less than 50% after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes, the apparent shrinkage due to the appearance of crimp of the latently crimpable conjugate fiber is small, and the surface of the knitted fabric is reduced. In this case, the brushed state of the ultrafine fibers becomes worse, and a good peach tone is not obtained. Further, when the fineness of the latently crimpable conjugate fiber becomes less than 2.0 denier, not only the obtained knitted fabric lacks in tension and waist, but also the shrinkage stress due to the appearance of crimp becomes low, and the ultrafine knitted fabric surface has The raised state of the fiber becomes worse, which is not preferable.

As each component constituting the latently crimpable conjugate fiber having crimping performance as described above, any polymer having a fiber forming ability can be adopted. The latently crimpable conjugate fiber suitably used in the present invention is generally a polyester-based first component having a high intrinsic viscosity [η],
The polyester-based second component having a low intrinsic viscosity [η] is a polyester fiber bonded in a side-by-side type. Specifically, a polyester-based fiber in which an intrinsic viscosity [η] of a first polyester component of 0.75 or more and a second component of an intrinsic viscosity “η” of 0.50 or less are joined in a side-by-side type is preferably used. sell. The polyester-based first component having an intrinsic viscosity “η” of 0.75 or more is, for example, polyethylene terephthalate in which 85% by mole or more of the structural unit is the other component.
It can be obtained using a polymer in which up to mol% is another polyester. The second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.50 or less can be obtained, for example, using a polymer in which 95 mol% of the structural units is polyethylene terephthalate. Here, the intrinsic viscosity [η] is measured in an equal weight mixed solvent of phenol and tetrachloroethane at 20 ° C.

Next, using the A yarn and the B yarn described above,
By knitting with the auxiliary yarn so that the A yarn is on the front side and the B yarn is on the back side (the inside of the stitch by the A yarn), A
The yarn is uniformly arranged on the front side, and the B yarn is uniformly arranged on the back side. For example, when the knitting is performed by simply aligning the A yarn and the B yarn without knitting with the additional yarn knitting,
The reversal phenomenon occurs, and the A yarn is not uniformly arranged on the front side.
In order to knit with the additional yarn knitting concretely, A
By arranging the yarn and the B yarn separately and regularly and making the yarn tension and the insertion angle of the yarn with the knitting needle uniform, the knitted fabric in which the A yarn and the B yarn are uniformly arranged is formed. Can be knitted. When knitting the knitted fabric by the additional yarn knitting, the ratio of the total fineness of the A yarn and the B yarn is preferably A yarn: B yarn = 1 to 3: 1. A beyond this range
If the proportion of the yarn is reduced, the reversal phenomenon or the knitting flaw tends to occur during the knitting of the additional yarn. If the proportion of the A yarn is increased beyond this range, the resulting knitted fabric may have insufficient tension or waist.

After the knitted fabric is knitted by the above-described method, the knitted fabric is heat-treated and shrunk. Heat treatment is generally
The knitted fabric is immersed in hot water. It is preferable to use hot water having a temperature of 70 ° C. or higher. When the temperature of the hot water is lower than 70 ° C., the latently crimpable conjugate fiber does not sufficiently express crimp,
It tends to be difficult to impart sufficient tension and waist to the obtained knitted fabric, and it is also difficult to impart a voluminous feel. In addition, there is a tendency that the microfibers constituting the A yarn hardly appear on the surface of the knitted fabric. The shrinkage due to the hot water may be carried out by using a relaxing scouring device, a continuous spreading low-tensile type relaxing machine or a liquid jet dyeing machine during the dyeing process of the knitted fabric. After this treatment, drying is generally performed at a temperature of about 80 to 130 ° C. without applying tension as much as possible, followed by intermediate setting or the like as necessary, followed by ordinary dyeing.

In the case where a yarn composed of split fibers formed by joining a plurality of ultrafine fibers (1b) is used as the A yarn, it is preferable to split the yarn before the hot water shrinkage. As the dividing means, a conventionally known method can be adopted. For example, in the case of a splittable fiber as shown in FIG. 1, where polyethylene terephthalate fiber is used as the ultrafine fiber (1b) and a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyester is used as the bonding agent (1a), the bonding agent ( It is preferable to dissolve 1a) and split the polyethylene terephthalate fiber. In the case of a splittable fiber as shown in FIG. 1, the amount of dissolution removed by an alkaline solution, that is, the weight loss rate is about 15 to 30% by weight,
Preferably, the content is about 20 to 25% by weight. Weight loss rate is 15% by weight
If it is less than 30, the splittable fibers are not sufficiently split, and the peach tone with a good touch tends not to be obtained. On the other hand, if the weight loss rate exceeds 30% by weight, although the division is performed well, the ultrafine fibers are also slightly dissolved, and the strength of the obtained peach-like knitted fabric tends to decrease.

As described above, a peach-tone knitted fabric is obtained, but a brushing process may be applied to further emphasize the peach-tone on the surface of the knitted fabric. For the raising process, conventionally known raising methods such as emery raising, needle cloth raising, and underwater raising can be employed. This raising process may be performed before or after dyeing, as long as it is after the hot water shrinkage treatment.

[0018]

EXAMPLES Example A As a yarn, a false twisted yarn obtained by false twisting a 70 denier / 48 filament multifilament composed of splittable fibers as shown in FIG. 1 was used. Here, the component of the wedge-shaped ultrafine fiber (1b) is polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.67, and the component of the bonding agent (1a) joining the ultrafine fiber (1b) is polyethylene glycol 23 having a molecular weight of 6000. It is a copolymerized polyester consisting of 2% by weight of sulfoisophthalic acid and 2% by weight of sulfoisophthalic acid. The weight ratio of the ultrafine fiber (1b) and the bonding agent (1a) is as follows: ultrafine fiber (1b): bonding agent (1a) = 4:
It is one. The fineness of the ultrafine fiber (1b) was 0.13 denier, and the hot water shrinkage was 5%.

The B yarn is a polyester-based first component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.76 (a polyester comprising 12 mol% of an isophthalic acid component and 88 mol% of a terephthalic acid component and a diol component such as diethylene glycol). Using a polyester-based second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.49,
A multifilament yarn of 50 denier / 12 filaments composed of a side-by-side latently crimpable composite type polyester fiber was used in the melt composite spinning method. The modulus of elasticity of this latently crimpable conjugated polyester fiber after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes was 80%, and the crimp rate after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes was 69.5%.

Using the A yarn and the B yarn, the knitted fabric was knitted by feeding yarns according to a knitting structure shown in FIG. 3 and a yarn feeding method described below. That is, only the B yarn is supplied to the first F and the sixth F, and the second F, the third F, the fourth F, the fifth F, the seventh F, and the eighth F are supplied.
For the F, 9F and 10F, the A yarn and the B yarn are supplied to separate holes using a two-hole yarn feeder as shown in FIG. 4, and only the A yarn is arranged on the surface of the knitted fabric. I got a knitted fabric. The above knitting was performed using a double knitting machine LPJ-H type manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki, with a kama diameter of 33 "and a gauge of 28G.

The knitted fabric obtained in this manner is passed through a circular dyeing tester manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd.
15 g / l and 1 g / l of Sun Mall FL (manufactured by Nika Chemical Co., Ltd., surfactant) at a bath ratio of 1:30, which also serves as a relaxing scouring agent, and as a bonding agent (1a) for splitting fibers constituting A yarn. ) Was dissolved and removed, and divided into bundles of ultrafine fibers as shown in FIG. Then, dyeing and finishing were performed in a usual manner, and at this time, the knitted fabric was shrunk with hot water to obtain a stretchable peach-like knitted fabric. This stretchable peach-like knitted fabric was excellent in tension and waist, and had a good touch on the surface of the knitted fabric. Also, the elongation rate in the warp direction is
The elongation recovery rate was 15.6% and the elongation recovery rate was 98%.
The elongation recovery rate was 1.2% and the elongation recovery rate was 97%, indicating that the elasticity was excellent. The elongation rate and elongation recovery rate are based on JIS L-1018
It was measured based on the method.

Comparative Example In place of the latently crimpable conjugated polyester fiber used in the examples, a polyester fiber comprising only a copolymer component of polyethylene terephthalate and 10 mol% of isophthalic acid was used, and 30 denier / The 12 filaments were used as B yarns. A peach-like knitted fabric was obtained using the B yarn in the same manner as in the example except for the above. In addition,
This polyester fiber is not a latent crimping material and has no crimping performance.
It was. The obtained peach-like knitted fabric was excellent in tension and waist, and also had a good touch on the surface of the knitted fabric. But,
The elongation rate in the warp direction was 3.6% and the elongation recovery rate was 89%. The elongation rate in the weft direction was 6.7% and the elongation recovery rate was 86%, indicating poor elasticity.

[0023]

As described above, the method for producing a stretchable peach-like knitted fabric according to the present invention uses the A
A knitted fabric knitted with an additional yarn is used, with the yarn as the front side and the B yarn composed of latently crimpable fibers as the back side, and the knitted fabric is shrunk by heat treatment.
At this time, the apparent shrinkage due to the crimping of the latently crimpable fiber is greater than the shrinkage of the microfiber, so the microfiber having a small shrinkage emerges on the surface of the knitted fabric and is extremely good on the surface of the knitted fabric. It can give a natural peach feeling and can give a knitted fabric tension and waist by shrinkage. And since the latently crimpable fiber is woven into this knitted fabric, unlike the conventional shrinkage of the knitted fabric with the high shrinkage fiber, the apparent shrinkage due to the appearance of crimp is utilized. In other words, only the apparent fiber length is shortened, and the actual fiber length is longer, so that the knitted fabric can be given excellent stretchability.

Therefore, according to the method of the present invention, a peach-like knitted fabric can be obtained without mechanically raising the brushes as in the conventional method, and a peach-like knitted fabric excellent in stretchability can be obtained. This has the effect that it can be obtained. In addition, it is unlikely that the fibers that have developed crimps are mixed and raised on the surface of the knitted fabric, so that a peach tone with a good touch can be expressed, and the occurrence of pilling due to the fibers that have developed crimps can be prevented. It works. Furthermore, when this knitted fabric is dyed, crimp-expressed fibers are scarcely mixed on the surface, and only microfibers are mainly present, so that it is possible to uniformly dye the knitted fabric surface, The effect that the turbulence phenomenon hardly occurs is also exerted.

Accordingly, the peach-like knitted fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention has excellent stretchability, feeling and physical properties, and can be suitably used for various kinds of clothing.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an example of a splittable fiber used in the present invention, and is a cross-sectional view thereof.

FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing a state in which the splittable fiber shown in FIG. 1 is split.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing an example of a knitting structure used in the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing an example of a knitting method used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1b Extra fine fiber A A yarn B B yarn

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (58) Field surveyed (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D04B 1/00-1/28 D04B 21/00-21/20 D03D 1/00-15/12

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A hot water shrinkage factor of 10 with a fineness of less than 0.5 denier
% Of ultrafine fibers (hereinafter referred to as "A yarn") and a yarn having a fineness of 2.0 denier or more, an elastic modulus of 70% or more after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment and 30 minutes of boiling water treatment. 50% reduction
Using a yarn made of latently crimpable conjugated fiber having the above-described crimping performance (hereinafter referred to as "B yarn"), the A yarn is positioned on the front side by additional yarn knitting, and the B yarn is The knitted fabric is knitted so as to be positioned on the back side, and the knitted fabric is subjected to a heat treatment, so that the ultrafine fiber and the latently crimpable conjugated fiber have a difference in shrinkage. A method for producing a stretchable peach-like knitted fabric, wherein the fiber group is in a raised state, and good stretchability is imparted to the knitted fabric by the appearance of crimp of the latently crimpable conjugated fiber.