JP6302609B1 - Business suit knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

Although it is a knitted fabric, the elongation of the fabric is limited, and it has the proper elongation and shape retention required for jackets and slacks used in business. Providing knitted fabric for business suits. It consists of a double knitted fabric having a pattern with a basis weight of 150 to 280 g / m2, and the ratio of the knit-welt structure to the entire structure is 0.3 to 1.0 in the back structure of the knitted fabric, and constitutes the knitted fabric basic structure The ratio of the total number of welts to the total number of knit loops is 0.2 to 0.8, the course density is 30 to 90 pieces / 2.54 cm, the wale density is 30 to 70 pieces / 2.54 cm, and the length is A knitted fabric for a business suit, characterized in that the stretch rate (EMT) in the direction is 5 to 20%, and the average stretch rate (EMT) in the vertical and horizontal directions is 8 to 20%.

Description

  The present invention relates to a knitted fabric for business suits having a firm and firm texture and excellent shape retention.

  Jackets and slacks worn in business scenes are often made of animal fibers such as wool. The reason for this is that the fabric is woven with the weft yarns arranged in a straight line in the warp direction, and the weft yarns are perpendicular to the warp yarns, so that the texture is fine and the warp and stiffness are strong. Since the degree is relatively small compared to the knitted fabric, the tailoring at the time of sewing may be good. The wool fibers are crimped and bulky, and the fibers are entangled with each other by the scale of the surface, giving the fabric a suitable stretch and elasticity, making it possible to create a three-dimensional feel and shape retention High performance also contributes greatly.

  However, in the woven fabric, the warp and the weft are closely crossed and tightly bound to each other, so that the air permeability is poor, and the inferior flexibility and stretchability are factors that impede comfort when worn. In addition, there is a problem that wool cannot be washed at home because it is made more felt in the washing process. Wool was easy to get insects and molds, and it required careful storage.

  Therefore, as a method for solving these disadvantages of woolen fabrics, the fabrics are shrink-proofed with urethane resin, and then subjected to a reduction treatment, thereby cutting the interfiber bonding to soften the texture and causing swelling shrinkage. Patent Document 1 proposes a method for allowing a woolen fabric to be washed by shrinking the fabric. However, even in this method, the drawbacks of wool that is susceptible to insects remain, and it was necessary to apply a very advanced dyeing process.

  On the other hand, Patent Document 2 has been proposed as an example in which a knitted fabric is applied by improving pilling in a jacket or coat that has been conventionally carried by a fabric. In this method, short fibers made of copolyester and hygroscopic fibers have a core-sheath structure, and the short fiber bundle of the sheath component is wound around the short fiber bundle of the core component at a substantially constant interval. The pilling property is improved by using a spun yarn that is substantially untwisted. However, with this method, it is necessary to use special spun yarns using a special polyester raw material, and even with this method, it is not possible to achieve the shape retention, elasticity and stiffness necessary for business jackets and pants. was difficult.

JP2013-129945A Japanese Patent Laying-Open No. 2015-203159

  The present invention has been made in view of the problems of the prior art as described above, and its purpose is that the elongation of the fabric is limited while being a knitted fabric, which is necessary for jackets and slacks used in business. An object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric for a business suit that can be washed at home and has both softness and breathability while having appropriate elongation and shape retention.

  As a result of diligent studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have used a thick double knitted fabric, and the ratio of the knit-welt structure to the total structure in the knitted fabric backing structure and the basic knitted fabric structure By setting the ratio of the total number of knit loops and the total number of welts to a knitted pattern structure in a specific range, and appropriately setting the course density, the wale density, the vertical direction and the horizontal direction elongation rate (EMT), While maintaining the flexibility of the knitted fabric, the elongation in the knitted fabric warp direction is reduced, and it has high shape retention, moderate elasticity and stiffness, making it the optimal knitted fabric for business jackets and slacks. As a result, the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention has the following configurations (1) to (5).
(1) The knitted fabric is composed of a double knitted fabric having a pattern with a basis weight of 150 to 280 g / m ² , and the ratio of the knit-welt structure to the entire structure in the back structure of the knitted fabric is 0.3 to 1.0. The ratio of the total number of welts to the total number of knit loops constituting the basic structure is 0.2 to 0.8, the course density is 30 to 90 pieces / 2.54 cm, and the wale density is 30 to 70 pieces / 2.54 cm. A knitted fabric for business suits, characterized in that the stretch rate (EMT) in the vertical direction is 5 to 20%, and the average stretch rate (EMT) in the vertical and horizontal directions is 8 to 20%.
(2) The knitted fabric for business suits according to (1), comprising 5 to 90% by weight of polyester filaments having a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 6 dtex and a total fineness of 50 to 300 dtex.
(3) Cationic dyeable polyester fiber and / or composite yarn of cationic dyeable polyester fiber and polyethylene terephthalate fiber is used in an amount of 20 to 90% by weight of the entire knitted fabric (1) or (2 ) For business suits.
(4) A jacket using the knitted fabric for business suits according to any one of (1) to (3) as a body.
(5) A slack using the knitted fabric for business suits according to any one of (1) to (3).

  According to the present invention, for example, using a bulky polyester false twisted yarn, while having a shape retention property and home washability important as a business suit, and having aesthetics of a knitted pattern, It is possible to provide a knitted fabric for a business suit having flexibility and high air permeability that are not found in a fabric.

FIG. 1 shows an explanatory diagram of a knit-welt structure and how to count the number of knit loops, tack loops, and welts. FIG. 2 shows a knitting structure chart of stripes used in Example 1. FIG. 3 shows an organization chart of the microcheck used in the second embodiment. FIG. 4 shows a knitting structure chart of a staggered lattice used in Example 3. FIG. 5 shows a knitting structure diagram of the gingham check used in Example 4. FIG. 6 shows a knitting structure diagram of the interlock used in Comparative Example 1.

  Traditionally, knitted fabrics are characterized by good breathability and high flexibility, especially round knitted fabrics, which are too stretchy in length and breadth and do not have a beautiful silhouette when worn. It tends to be low. The inventor adopts a specific knitted structure that can adjust the elongation rate of the process, particularly the elongation rate in the vertical direction, to a specific range in the knitted fabric of the pattern used for the business suit, The present inventors have found a knitted fabric suitable for business jackets, pants and suits (also called business suits) satisfying shape retention and wearing comfort.

  The knitted fabric that can follow the elasticity of the skin and the bending and stretching of the joint when the body is moved greatly is characterized by high wearing comfort. Especially for underwear and sports jerseys, knitted fabrics are preferred because they are easy to follow the movement of the body if the degree of progress is high, making it comfortable. However, in business suits where textiles have been used in the past, it is important to reduce the degree of progress, especially in the vertical direction, in order to obtain the firmness, stiffness, silhouette and shape retention of the suit. is there. As a result of verifying the optimum background / elongation region of the knitted fabric used for the business suit in the wearing test, the inventor has obtained a relatively low elongation in the vertical direction (EMT) and the horizontal direction (EMT). It was found that it was necessary to make the range of degrees.

  Specifically, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, the elongation in the warp direction (EMT) is 5 to 20%, preferably 6 to 18%, and more preferably 7 to 15%. If the elongation rate (EMT) in the vertical direction exceeds the above range, it will lead to a decrease in the firmness and firmness of the fabric and the shape retention of the product. When the lengthwise elongation rate (EMT) is less than the above range, it is not possible to obtain an appropriate elongation necessary for wearing a business suit, and it is difficult to achieve the object of the present invention.

  Moreover, in the knitted fabric of this invention, the elongation rate (EMT) of a horizontal direction becomes like this. Preferably it is 10-25%, More preferably, it is 11-22%, More preferably, it is 12-20%. When the elongation ratio (EMT) in the horizontal direction is within this range, the flexibility of the knitted fabric is utilized in the suit, and wearing comfort is obtained. When the elongation rate (EMT) in the horizontal direction is less than the above range, comfort during wearing is lost. Moreover, when the elongation ratio (EMT) in the horizontal direction exceeds the above range, recovery after stretching tends to deteriorate.

  Furthermore, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, the average value of the elongation ratio (EMT) in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is preferably 8 to 20%, more preferably 10 to 19%, as a circular knitting, More preferably, it is 11 to 18%. When the average value of the elongation rate (EMT) exceeds the above range, the knitted fabric is stretched and contracted to have a soft texture such as underwear, and the shape retaining property tends to be lowered.

  In woven business suits, weaving patterns are frequently used, and even in the knitted fabric of the present invention, weaving patterns are reproduced using a double knitting machine. At this time, in order to achieve the above-described elongation rates in the vertical and horizontal directions. In addition, in the basic structure constituting the knitted fabric, the ratio of the total number of welts to the total number of knit loops needs to be 0.2 to 0.8. Preferably it is 0.22-0.7, More preferably, it is 0.24-0.65. By configuring the welt at a specific ratio with respect to the knitted loop in the knitted fabric basic structure, it is possible to suppress stretchability and express appropriate elasticity and stiffness in the business suit.

  Further, it is necessary to include a knit-welt structure in a knitted structure in the knitted fabric backing structure at a certain ratio or more. The knit-welt structure is a structure in which a knit loop and a welt are adjacent to each other on one side of a knitted fabric. For example, in the knitting structure diagram of FIG. 1a, a pair of (1) and (2) knit-welt or (2) and (3) welt-knit is called a knit-welt structure. In FIG. 1a, the knit-welt structure is a diagram in which three pairs (six) of (1) (2), (3) (4), (5) (6) are connected. In the knitted structure, when the ratio of the knit-welt structure is increased, the stretchability of the knitted fabric can be lowered, and the shape retention and elasticity necessary for the business shirt can be given to the knitted fabric. However, since the knitted fabric of the present invention has a knitted pattern, it is difficult to form a pattern if a large amount of knit-welt structure is used on the surface. Can be achieved. In the present invention, the ratio of the knit-welt structure to the entire structure in the back structure of the knitted fabric needs to be 0.3 to 1.0. Preferably it is 0.4-1.0, More preferably, it is 0.5-1.0. If the ratio of the knit-welt structure is less than the above range in the back structure, the stretch of the knitted fabric is increased, and it is difficult to obtain shape retention and elasticity.

  In the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to make a structure with a knit loop and a welt, and it is preferable that a tuck loop is not included in the structure as much as possible except that a mesh portion is formed. In particular, it is preferable not to make a tack loop in the back tissue. The ratio of the tack loop is preferably 0.2 or less with respect to the entire tissue. More preferably, it is 0.1 or less. More preferably, the basic tissue (complete tissue) does not include a tack loop. This is because when the tack loop enters, the structure tends to be difficult to be dense and easily stretched.

  As the knitted fabric pattern in the present invention, for example, a check, a houndstooth check, a diamond, a dot, a stripe, a polka dot, a dimple, other geometric patterns, and a knitted pattern resembling a woven pattern such as twill, calze, picke, herringbone, etc. It can be made into a handle. As an example of forming the desired pattern after the knit loop and the welt are in the above ratio when forming the actual pattern, an example is shown in the organization chart, and the knit-welt knitting structure in the back structure and the knitted fabric The welt ratio with respect to the knit loop in the whole is shown. 2 is a stripe, FIG. 3 is a micro check, FIG. 4 is a houndstooth check, and FIG. 5 is a knitting chart of a gingham check.

  Here, how to count the knit loop, tack, welt, and knit-welt structure in the organization chart will be described with reference to FIG. In FIG. 1b, the knitting yarn has a structure in which loops are formed on both front and back surfaces, but (1), (2), (3), (5) and (6) are knit loops. (4) is a welt, and (7) is a tack. In FIG. 1b, there are seven knit loops, one welt and one tuck, and seven loops and a welt. This structure includes a pair of knit-welt structures (3) and (4) (counted as two loops).

  In the present invention, the density design of the knitted fabric is also important. By adjusting the loop density to an appropriate length and width, it becomes possible to give an appropriate elasticity and stiffness while being a knitted fabric together with the above knitting structure. The knitted fabric of the present invention is knitted with a high gauge double knitting machine and finished to a high density. In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the wale density after dyeing is 30 to 70 pieces / 2.54 cm. More preferably, it is 35-60 pieces / 2.54 cm, More preferably, it is 40-55 pieces / 2.54 cm. If the wale density is lower than the above range, the flexibility will be too high and it will be difficult to obtain firmness and stiffness, and if it is higher than the above range, the thread used will be too thin and the fabric will be too thin, or the stretch in the horizontal direction will be It becomes too small and the feeling of wearing can be worse. The knitted fabric course density after dyeing is 30 to 90 pieces / 2.54 cm. More preferably, it is 35-65 pieces / 2.54 cm, More preferably, it is 40-60 pieces / 2.54 cm. If the course density is lower than the above range, the flexibility becomes too high and it becomes difficult to obtain firmness and stiffness, and if it is higher than the above range, the dough becomes hard and the air permeability is lowered and the feeling of stuffiness tends to increase.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably knitted by limiting the yarn length per 100 wales (W) in order to keep the degree of warp elongation lower than that of a conventional knitted fabric. The average yarn length of all yarns constituting the knitted fabric is preferably 90 to 220 mm / 100 W. By keeping the ratio of the welt loop when making a knitted pattern and the yarn length constituting the knitted fabric within an appropriate range, shape retention and elasticity can be imparted to the knitted fabric. More preferably, it is 120-200 mm / 100W. If the average yarn length is less than the above range, stable production becomes difficult and knitting defects are likely to occur. Moreover, when the said range is exceeded, the elongation of a knitted fabric will become high and it will become difficult to obtain the effect of this invention.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention can be knitted with high density by using a circular knitting machine having a relatively high gauge for the yarn to be used. As the knitting machine used in the present invention, a so-called double knit knitting machine having a knitting needle density (gauge) of 26 or more per inch (2.54 cm) is employed. A preferable knitting machine gauge is 28-36 pieces / 2.54 cm. When the knitting machine gauge exceeds the above range, it is necessary to use a thinner thread, and it becomes difficult to obtain the thickness required for the suit. When the amount is less than the above range, a rough knitted fabric with a rough density is obtained, and it is difficult to obtain shape retention and the texture tends to be too soft.

  As the yarn constituting the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to use a filament or a composite yarn including at least a filament. More preferably, it is a polyester filament. By using the polyester filament, the flexibility and shape retention of the knitted fabric can be further improved. As the polyester filament, a yarn obtained by processing a flat yarn (raw yarn), false twisted yarn, air entangled yarn or the like can be used. From the viewpoint of the softness of the knitted fabric and the prevention of see-through, false twisted yarn is more preferable. As the polyester, polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and biodegradable fibers such as polylactic acid fiber can be used. Particularly preferred is polyethylene terephthalate fiber. These yarns should just be contained 80% by weight or more in the knitted fabric. The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the yarn of the knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited, and various irregular cross-sections represented by a round shape, a triangular shape, an eight-leaf shape, a flat shape, a Y shape, and the like. Yarn can be used.

  Ordinary polyester fibers can be dyed only with disperse dyes, but the knitted fabrics of the present invention are often dyed with different colors, so that cationic dyeable polyester fibers and / or cationic dyeable polyester fibers and polyethylene terephthalate fibers can be used. It is preferable to use a composite yarn. In the case of a knitted fabric of 100% by weight of polyester, a high-pressure cationic dyeable polyester fiber that can be dyed at a high temperature and high pressure may be used. It is preferable to use a cationic dyeable polyester fiber. The mixing ratio of the cationic dyeable polyester fiber in the knitted fabric is preferably 20 to 90% by weight. More preferably, it is 30 to 80% by weight. More preferably, it is 40 to 70% by weight. With this mixing ratio, it is possible to obtain a color pattern in a medium to very dark color necessary for the suit. If the mixing ratio of the cationic dyeable polyester fiber is less than the above range, it is difficult to dye the knitted fabric in a deep color. In addition, when the above range is exceeded, it is difficult to express a pattern in a dark color.

  The total fineness of the yarn constituting the main part of the knitted fabric is preferably 10 to 350 dtex, more preferably 50 to 300 dtex. The yarns having different finenesses within the above range may be knit together. When the fiber fineness of the yarn to be used is thinner than the above range, the sense of sheerness of the knitted fabric is increased, and the firmness and stiffness are weakened.When the yarn is thicker than the above range, a thick knitted fabric is obtained. It can be undesirable as a business suit.

  In the present invention, it is effective to use thick fibers having a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 6 dtex in addition to the above-mentioned measures in order to further improve the shape retention, elasticity and stiffness. More preferably, it is 3-5 dtex. As a means for mixing, knitting may be carried out, or it may be knitted by blending or spinning with other yarns. It is preferable that thick fibers are mixed in the knitted fabric at a ratio of 5 to 90% by weight. Preferably it is 10 to 80 weight%, More preferably, it is 20 to 70 weight%. If it is less than the said range, the effect which raises elasticity and stiffness will decrease. The fiber having a large single yarn fineness may be false twisted, air processed, twisted, or the like as long as it is a long fiber, but it is more preferable to use raw yarn. The total fineness of the long fibers is preferably 50 to 300 dtex. More preferably, it is 70-180 dtex. If it is less than the above range, there is little effect of increasing the firmness and stiffness, and if it exceeds the above range, the texture may become too hard.

  Since the knitted fabric of the present invention is a pattern, it is possible to make the pattern portion glossy by coloring the pattern portion differently, mixing fibers with a low content of white fine particles or fibers with a high content, or mixing irregularly shaped fibers. The pattern can be emphasized by the difference in feeling and color density. For this reason, it is preferable to use a full dull yarn, a bright yarn, and a different type of fiber (fiber dyed with a dye different from the main fiber constituting the knitted fabric) as appropriate within the range of the above mixing ratio.

As for the fabric weight of the knitted fabric of the present invention, a fabric weight close to that of a woolen fabric that has been used in a business suit can be preferably used, and it is preferably 150 to 280 g / m ² . Preferably it is 160-250 g / m < ² >, More preferably, it is 175-220 g / m < ² >. When the basis weight exceeds the above range, the knitted fabric is drooped by its own weight and easily feels thick. In addition, if the basis weight is less than the above range, the shirt and underwear inside the suit are easily visible and the appearance is liable to deteriorate. The thickness of the knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 0.3 to 1.0 mm. More preferably, it is 0.4-0.9 mm, More preferably, it is 0.5-0.8 mm. When the knitted fabric is thinner than the above range, the sense of sheer tends to become too strong.

  When dyeing the knitted fabric of the present invention, it may be performed by a general filament knitted fabric processing method, but in order to suppress the elongation in the vertical direction and adjust the horizontal / longitudinal elongation balance, compared to the horizontal direction. It is preferable that the warp direction is slightly pulled and the knitted fabric loop is finished to be vertically long. The knitted fabric of the present invention may be subjected to predetermined water absorption processing and various functional processing. If a knitted fabric subjected to such special processing is used, a business suit with further improved water-absorbing quick-drying and comfort can be obtained. Further, the firmness and stiffness can be further increased by performing a hard finishing process such as acrylic resin, polyurethane resin, melamine resin, bililacetate resin, and epoxy resin in the finishing process.

The mechanical properties of the knitted fabric of the present invention are in accordance with KES (Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics). The stretch rate (EMT) of the knitted fabric of the present invention is measured by KES-FB1. The measurement of the elongation rate (EMT) is performed by holding a 20 cm × 20 cm sample on a chuck with an interval of 5 cm and pulling up to a maximum load of 250 gf / cm at a strain rate of 4.00 × 10 ⁻³ / sec. The knitted fabric of the present invention has a relatively low elongation and is optimal for a business suit. The longitudinal elongation ratio (EMT) is 5 to 20%, and the lateral elongation ratio (EMT) is preferably 10 to 25%. The average value of the length and width of EMT is 8 to 20%.

  The shear characteristics affect the tailoring quality as well as the firmness, stiffness, and flexibility of the sewn fabric, and if this is in an appropriate range, it becomes easy to perform sewing with a three-dimensional feeling due to squeezing or the like. The appropriate range of the G value is preferably 1.00 to 1.50 gf / cm · degree as an average value in the vertical and horizontal directions. The average value of the length and width of 2HG5 is preferably 3.00 to 5.50 gf / cm. The knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized by being firm and firm, but can be measured with KES-FB2 as a substitute measure. The vertical and horizontal average values of the B value and the 2HB value are in the range of 0.010 to 0.070 gf · cm / cm, and a numerical value range close to a woven fabric can be taken while being a knitted fabric.

The knitted fabric of the present invention can achieve air permeability of 50 cc / cm ² · sec or more. This numerical value is a high value considering that the air permeability of a general wool fabric used for a conventional business suit is about 5 to 40 cc / cm ² · sec.

  EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, each performance evaluation in an Example was performed with the following method.

(Knitted fabric density)
JIS-L1096 8.6.2 Based on the density of the knitted fabric, the course density (pieces / 2.54 cm) and the wale density (pieces / 2.54 cm) of the knitted fabric were measured. When measuring visually, the place with the most knit loops on the organization chart in the wale direction (or course direction) was selected, and the number of knit loops was measured to obtain the density.

(Weight of knitted fabric)
The basis weight of the knitted fabric was measured based on the mass per unit area in the standard state of JIS-L1096 8.3.2A method.

(Thickness of knitted fabric)
The thickness of the knitted fabric was measured based on the thickness of the JIS-L1096 8.4A method. The constant pressure of measurement conditions was 23.5 kPa.

(Air permeability)
The air permeability of the knitted fabric was measured in accordance with the air permeability (Fragile type method A method) defined in JIS-L-1096 8.26.1.

(Mechanical properties)
The mechanical properties of the knitted fabric were in accordance with KES (Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics). The stretch rate (EMT) of the knitted fabric was measured with KES-FB1 manufactured by Kato Tech. The elongation rate (EMT) was measured by holding a 20 cm × 20 cm sample on a chuck with a spacing of 5 cm and pulling it to a maximum load of 250 gf / cm at a strain rate of 4.00 × 10 ⁻³ / sec. A fabric that is difficult to stretch has a low EMT value.

  As for the shearing characteristics, KES-FB1 was used to clamp a 10 cm width of a predetermined region of each sample, a shear rigidity G [gf / cm · degree] in one direction at a forced load of 10 gf / cm, and a shear angle of 0.5 °. Shear hysteresis 2HG [gf / cm] and shear hysteresis 2HG5 [gf / cm] at a shear angle of 5 ° were measured. As the shear stiffness G value is larger, the shear hardness tends to be higher, and as the 2HG and 2HG5 values are larger, the recoverability in shear deformation is worse.

The bending characteristics were determined by using a KES-FB2 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd. with a 1 cm width of a predetermined region of each sample as a sample and fixing it between chucks with a spacing of 1 cm, bending to the maximum curvature +2.5 cm ⁻¹ , , Measured by bending back to the maximum curvature of -2.5 cm ^{-1 and} then back. The bending rigidity (B) [gf · cm ² / cm] was calculated from the inclination when the inclination of the bending moment with respect to the curvature became substantially constant after bending toward the front side. Further, the bending recovery property (2HB) [gf · cm / cm] was obtained from the hysteresis width. The larger the B value, the harder the bending and the higher the tendencies. The larger the 2HB value, the worse the bend return property and the lower the stiffness.

(Sensory evaluation of elasticity and stiffness)
As a texture evaluation of the elasticity when touching the fabric by hand, a five-point evaluation was performed with the wool poplin as the highest rank of “Hari Koshi” and the lowest rank as 1. Judgment was made by one skilled in the hand.

(W & W property of knitted fabric)
The form stability (W & W property) of the knitted fabric was evaluated according to the quality performance measures council law for apparel products. The determination was performed using a determination standard three-dimensional replica defined in AATCC 124-1984. Judgment was displayed from the fifth grade (good) to the first grade (bad).

(Product shape retention)
Using the pleated property test method for knitted fabrics of JIS-L1060: 2012, the three-dimensional effect of the shape of the pleat after washing was used as a substitute evaluation for shape retention. The grade was determined according to the criteria for the pleated shape before washing and the pleated shape after repeating the washing operation and the drying operation 5 times. As a pleat determination standard, a five-level determination standard three-dimensional replica defined in AATCC Test Method 88C was used. Judgment was displayed from the fifth grade (good) to the first grade (bad).

(Ease of movement of the upper body when wearing a jacket)
After the fabric is sewn in A4 size on a business jacket, it is easy to move when a 30-year-old man with a medium-height middle-shoulder wears his hands horizontally and swings both hands / shoulders horizontally around the spine. Three-stage evaluation was performed in the order of easy movement: ○>Δ> ×: difficult to move, with (resistance of the fabric to movement) as a sensory value.

Example 1
Using a 33-inch, 28-gauge double circular knitting machine (V-4AL, manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.), a striped pattern machine composed of complete structures F1 to F5 shown in FIG. 2 was knitted by interlock gauging. At that time, a false twisted yarn (single yarn fineness of 3.1 dtex) having 110 dtex (T) and a filament number of 36 (f), which is a round cross-section yarn of high-pressure cationic dyeable polyester, was used for the yarn feeders F1 and F5. For F2, used was a thread 117T72f that was dyed by twisting a 33T24f false twisted yarn, which is a round cross section yarn of high-pressure cationic dyeable polyester, and a semi-dull round cross-section polyester filament 84T48f, and turned into a kite yarn. Next, for F3 and 4, a false twisted yarn of 84T36f, which is a polyethylene terephthalate fiber (SD) having a round cross-section in which 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles were kneaded, was used. The thread length of each feeder was 255 mm / 100 W for F1, 2 and 157 mm / 100 W for F3,4,5. The average yarn length of F1-5 was 197 mm / 100 W. The ratio of the cationic dyeable polyester fiber in the entire knitted fabric was 52.3%.

The finished machine was opened, and presetting was performed at 160 ° C. for 2 minutes using a pinoter made of Hiranotechseed, and then scouring, dyeing and finishing were performed according to the following formulation.
Scouring prescription: Satita processing Nonisol N 1g / l, Nisaka Chemical Neocrystal CG1000 0.5g / l, soda ash 0.5g / l, bath ratio 1:15 95 ° C. × 30 minutes.
Dyeing prescription: Liquid dyeing machine NS type manufactured by Nisaka Seisakusho, bath ratio 1:15 Acetic acid 0.2g / l pH = 4 at 130 ° C x 45min, Meisei Chemical Disper N 700 0.5g / l, Nikka Chemical Neo Crystal GC1000 0.5 g / l, Takamatsu Oil SR1800 1.5% owf (on the weight of fiber), dispersive cationic dye Kayacryl Black R-ED 3.5% owf, disperse dye Kayalon Polyester Blue BD-S conc. After staining with 0% owf, centrifugal dehydration and drying (120 ° C. × 3 minutes) were performed, and a finish was applied under the following conditions. The finish pick-up was 70%.
Sunstat ES-11 (Antistatic agent manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries) 1% ows (on the weight of solution)
Thereafter, the final set was performed under the conditions of a pin tenter 160 ° C. × 2 minutes, and the amount of properties was adjusted to obtain a final dough. In finishing, it was pulled slightly vertically. The density of the finished knitted fabric was 54 courses / 2.54 cm and 43 wales / 2.54 cm. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Example 2)
Using the same circular knitting machine as in Example 1, a micro-check pattern raw machine composed of complete structures F1 to F5 shown in FIG. 3 was knitted by interlock gauging. At that time, 110T36f false twisted yarn (CD), which is a round cross-section yarn of high-pressure cationic dyeable polyester, was used for the yarn feeders F1 and F5. Next, for F2 to 4, 110T48f polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn (SD), which is a round cross section yarn in which 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles were kneaded, was used. The average yarn length of the yarn constituting the complete structure of F1 to F5 was 198 mm / 100 W.

  The finished green machine was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1. The density of the finished knitted fabric was 55 courses / 2.54 cm and 43 wales / 2.54 cm. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Example 3)
On the same circular knitting machine as in Example 1, a houndstooth-patterned raw machine composed of complete structures F1 to F12 shown in FIG. 4 was knitted by rib gauging. At that time, 84T36f polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn (SD), which is a round cross-sectional yarn in which 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles were kneaded, was used for the feeders F1, 4, 7, and 10. For F2, 5, 8, and 11, 110T, 36f polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, which is a round section semi-dal yarn (SD) in which 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles were kneaded, was used. Further, for F3, 6, 9, and 12, a ring spun yarn of English count 40/1 made of 100% cationic dyeable polyester single fiber having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex and 38 mm cut was used. The average yarn length of all yarns constituting the complete structure was 158 mm / 100 W.

  The finished green machine was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1. A finished knitted fabric having a density of 47 courses / 2.54 cm and a number of wales of 43 pieces / 2.54 cm was obtained. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

Example 4
Using the same knitting machine as in Example 1, a gingham check pattern knitting machine having the complete structure shown in FIG. At that time, the yarn feeders F1, 4, 7, 10, 13 and F18, 21, 24, 27, 30 have a high-pressure cationic dyeable polyester single fiber (single yarn fineness 1.5 dtex, 38 mm cut) 40% by weight, round cross section A ring spun yarn of English count 60/1, in which 60% by weight of semidal polyester short fiber (single yarn fineness 1.5 dtex, 38 mm cut) was blended, was used. In F2, 5, 8, 11, 14 and F17, 20, 23, 26, and 29, 167T48f polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, which is a round cross-section yarn (FD) in which 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles are kneaded. Was used. Next, 84T36f false twisted yarn, which is a circular cross section yarn of high-pressure cationic dyeable polyester, was used for the yarn feeders F3, 6, 9, 12, 15 and F16, 19, 22, 25, 28. The average yarn length of the yarn constituting the complete structure was 184 mm / 100 W.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. The density of the finished knitted fabric was 50 courses / 2.54 cm and 44 wales / 2.54 cm. Detailed configuration and evaluation results are shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using the same knitting machine as in Example 1, the interlock raw machine shown in FIG. 6 was knitted. The yarn used was a 110T96f polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn which is a full-section circular cross-section yarn in which 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles are kneaded. The average yarn length of each feeder was 250 mm / 100 W.

  The finished raw machine is dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. In this case, the dispersive dye is not used in the dyeing, and only the disperse dye is dyed with Kayalon Polyester Black ECX 300 3.0% owf and finished. I got a knitted fabric. The density of the finished knitted fabric was 29 courses / 2.54 cm and 39 wales / 2.54 cm. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Comparative Example 2)
The woven fabric was a tropical woven fabric (plain weave) using 100% wool from Australia Merino and dyed 2/52 (meter count), and finished by arranging regular woolen yarn fabrics. The finished fabric had a basis weight of 185 g / m ^2, warp density 50 / 2.54 cm, and weft density 49 / 2.54 cm.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric for business suits that is hard to see through and has excellent breathability while ensuring a texture such as firmness and stiffness that is comparable to a business suit made of ordinary woven fabric, A significant contribution in the industry.

Claims (5)

It consists of a double knitted fabric having a pattern with a basis weight of 150 to 280 g / m ² , the ratio of the knit-welt structure to the entire structure in the back structure of the knitted fabric is 0.3 to 1.0, The ratio of the total number of welts to the total number of knit loops constituting is 0.2 to 0.8, the course density is 30 to 90 pieces / 2.54 cm, the wale density is 30 to 70 pieces / 2.54 cm, and A knitted fabric for business suits, characterized in that the stretch rate (EMT) in the vertical direction is 5 to 20%, and the average stretch rate (EMT) in the vertical and horizontal directions is 8 to 20%.   The knitted fabric for business suits according to claim 1, comprising 5 to 90% by weight of polyester continuous fibers having a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 6 dtex and a total fineness of 50 to 300 dtex.   The business according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cationic dyeable polyester fiber and / or the composite yarn of the cationic dyeable polyester fiber and the polyethylene terephthalate fiber is used in an amount of 20 to 90% by weight of the entire knitted fabric. Knitted fabric for suits.   The jacket characterized by using the knitted fabric for business suits according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as a body.   A slack using the business suit knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

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