CN111051590B

CN111051590B - Knitted fabric for business shirt

Info

Publication number: CN111051590B
Application number: CN201780094201.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 河端秀树; 森井浩之
Original assignee: Okawa Knit Co ltd
Current assignee: Okawa Knit Co ltd
Priority date: 2017-09-20
Filing date: 2017-09-20
Publication date: 2022-03-11
Anticipated expiration: 2037-09-20
Also published as: CN111051590A; WO2019058449A1

Abstract

Provided is a knitted fabric which is a knitted fabric, has a limited longitudinal elongation, and has an appropriate elongation as a business shirt, and also has flexibility, air permeability, and shape retention. A knitted fabric for a business shirt, characterized in that it is a single-sided knitted fabric formed of a pattern structure in which the basic structure of the knitted fabric is such that the ratio of the number of weft yarns to the number of knitting coils is 0.20 to 1.10, the course density is 40 to 100/2.54 cm, the wale density is 30 to 80/2.54 cm, the longitudinal Elongation (EMT) is 3 to 25%, and the lateral Elongation (EMT) is 8 to 40%.

Description

Knitted fabric for business shirt

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a knitted fabric for business shirts (business shirts) having excellent elasticity, toughness, stretchability, air permeability, and transparency prevention.

Background

Shirts worn mainly in commercial situations, such as conventional western-style shirts (white shirts), dress shirts (dress shirts), casual shirts (casual shirts), blouses (blouses), use woven fabrics in which yarns are aligned in the warp direction and weft yarns are woven perpendicular to the warp yarns. The reason for this is that the woven fabric has a dense gap between yarns, and is elastic and tough, and therefore has excellent profile properties. However, since the warp yarns and the weft yarns are densely crossed and strongly restricted, air permeability is poor, and flexibility and stretchability are deteriorated, which is a factor of impairing comfort during wearing. For example, when the user is working on the way to work or out of offices in summer and further performing activities involving strenuous exercise, etc., the perspiration that flows out is not easily emitted to the outside, and the user is easily bored or sticky, and the user does not have flexibility, so that the user has a problem that the woven fabric is easily stuck to the skin and the comfort is easily deteriorated.

In order to solve the problem, the present applicant has tried to manufacture a fabric for business shirts, which is a cross-knitted fabric of spun yarns and long yarns, from a knitted fabric, and proposed that the bending stiffness (B/M) per unit weight in the machine direction and the transverse direction is 1.7 × 10^-4As described above, a knitted fabric for business shirts having an Elongation (EMT) of 10% or more and a bending recovery (2HB) of 0.060gfcm/cm or less (see patent document 1). The method can provide the rubber with proper elasticity and toughness; however, there is a problem that a knitted fabric for business shirts, which is excellent in water-absorbing quick-drying properties and skin release properties, requires cross knitting of a long yarn having no fluff and a short yarn having a large amount of fluff on the surface, and has a rough surface.

Furthermore, the applicant proposed that the weight per unit area is 155g/m²Below 90g/m²A knitted fabric formed of a single-knit knitted fabric having a wale/2.54cm or more wale density, which is knitted using a fine composite yarn of 30/1 counts or less formed of a spun yarn and a long yarn (see patent document 2). However, this method requires the use of a long and short composite spun yarn formed of a short fiber and a long yarn.

Further, as an attempt to design a knit structure, a single-side circular knit fabric composed of front yarns and rear yarns has been proposed (see patent document 3). The knitted fabric is characterized in that the sinker loop surface has bridge portions formed by the weft at intervals of 1-8 stitches between the stitches, the bridge portions being formed by the weft. However, this method has a problem that the knitted fabric is thick due to the structure of the front yarn and the back yarn. In addition, since the knitted fabric is mostly a plain stitch, there is a problem that the elongation of the knitted fabric becomes large and the shape retention property is liable to be lowered.

Documents of the prior art

Patent document

Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2001-303403

Patent document 2: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2001-303301

Patent document 3: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2013-104158

Disclosure of Invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

The present invention has been made in view of the above-described conventional problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric which is a knitted fabric but has a limited elongation in the machine direction and which has an elongation suitable for a business shirt, and also has flexibility, air permeability and shape retention. Further, an object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric for business shirts, which is a thin knitted fabric but has a small transparency.

Means for solving the problems

In order to achieve the above object, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies to obtain a thinly knitted fabric for business shirts, and as a result, have found that: a single-sided knitted fabric is adopted to make a knitting pattern structure which enables the ratio of the total number of knitting coils and the total number of wefts to the basic structure of the knitted fabric to be in a specific range, and proper row density, wale density and longitudinal and transverse Elongation (EMT) are set, thereby providing the knitted fabric with the maintained flexibility; meanwhile, the longitudinal elongation of the knitted fabric is reduced; has high shape-preserving property and proper elasticity and toughness; the present invention has been completed by finding a knitted fabric for business shirts that is difficult to see through.

That is, the present invention has the following configurations (1) to (5).

(1) A knitted fabric for a business shirt, characterized in that it is a single-sided knitted fabric formed of a pattern structure in which the basic structure of the knitted fabric is such that the ratio of the number of weft yarns to the number of knitting coils is 0.20 to 1.10, the course density is 40 to 100/2.54 cm, the wale density is 30 to 80/2.54 cm, the longitudinal Elongation (EMT) is 3 to 25%, and the lateral Elongation (EMT) is 8 to 40%.

(2) The knitted fabric for business shirts according to (1), characterized by comprising 3 to 25% by weight of polyester long fibers having a single fiber fineness of 3 to 12dtex and a total fiber fineness of 30 to 120 dtex.

(3) The knitted fabric for business shirts according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the base portion (ground portion) is formed of polyester fibers containing 0.6 to 5.0 wt% of a white metal oxide, and the pattern portion is formed of polyester fibers containing 0 to 0.5 wt% of a white metal oxide.

(4) The knitted fabric for business shirts according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the base portion is formed of a polyester fiber containing 0.6 to 5.0 wt% of a white metal oxide, and the pattern portion is formed of a cationic dye-dyeable polyester fiber.

(5) A business shirt characterized in that the knitted fabric for a business shirt according to any one of (1) to (4) is used in a shirt body.

Effects of the invention

The present invention provides a knitted fabric for business shirts, which uses a full-dull polyester false-twist yarn containing titanium oxide fine particles and having excellent transparency-preventing properties, and which has important shape retention properties in the machine direction, excellent transparency-preventing properties, and aesthetic properties of a knitted pattern, and has softness and high air permeability which are not possessed by woven fabrics, as a business shirt.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a knitting pattern diagram of Bizhuludoha (ビザルカノコ) used in example 1.

FIG. 2 is a view showing a knit structure of a Qiaogorge used in example 2.

FIG. 3 is a lattice knit pattern diagram showing a structure used in example 3.

FIG. 4 is a view showing a spotted knitting structure used in example 4.

FIG. 5 is a knitting pattern diagram showing stripes used in example 5.

FIG. 6 is a plain stitch diagram showing a plain stitch used in comparative example 1.

FIG. 7 is a view showing a knitted structure of a bead mesh used in comparative example 2.

Detailed Description

In the past, knitted fabrics have been characterized by good air permeability and high flexibility, and in particular, circular knitted fabrics have properties of irregular contours and low shape retention when worn with excessively large warp and weft elongation. The present inventors have found that in a patterned knitted fabric for a business shirt, a specific knitted structure capable of adjusting the warp and weft elongation, particularly the longitudinal elongation, to a specific range is adopted, and thus a knitted fabric suitable for a business shirt, which satisfies the contour, shape retention, and wearing comfort of a business shirt, is realized. The business shirt herein refers to a shirt without uncomfortable feeling in general business occasions, for example, a shirt with no loss of delight in a meeting between companies. The form of the shirt includes, for example, a shirt having a collar and a fly pattern.

In the knitted fabric, the flexibility of the skin and the flexion and extension of the joints when the knitted fabric moves greatly along with the body have a great influence on the wearing comfort. Conventionally, polo shirts and jerseys, which are preferably made of knitted fabric, have high warp and weft elongation and are easy to follow the movement of the body, and are therefore comfortable. However, in the case of business shirts using woven fabrics, it is rather important to reduce the warp and weft elongation, particularly the longitudinal elongation, in the elasticity, the toughness, the contour, and the shape retention of dress shirts. The inventor verifies the optimal warp and weft elongation area of the knitted fabric used by the business shirt through a wearing test, and judges the result: it is desirable to have a longitudinal Elongation (EMT) and a transverse Elongation (EMT) in a relatively low elongation range.

Specifically, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, the machine direction Elongation (EMT) is 3 to 25%, preferably 5 to 20%, and more preferably 8 to 18%. When the machine direction Elongation (EMT) is more than the above range, the elasticity and the tough feeling of the fabric are reduced, and the shape retention of the product is also reduced. When the longitudinal Elongation (EMT) is less than the above range, a suitable elongation required for wearing a business shirt cannot be obtained, and the object of the present invention is not easily achieved.

In addition, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, the transverse Elongation (EMT) is 8 to 40%, preferably 10 to 30%, and more preferably 11 to 25%. When the transverse Elongation (EMT) is within this range, the flexibility of the knitted fabric is effectively utilized by the shirt, and the wearing comfort can be obtained. When the transverse Elongation (EMT) is less than the above range, the wearing comfort is poor. When the transverse Elongation (EMT) is more than the above range, recovery after elongation is liable to deteriorate.

Further, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, as the circular knitting, the average value of the longitudinal elongation and the transverse Elongation (EMT) is preferably very low in 9 to 25%, more preferably 9.5 to 23%, and further preferably 10 to 22%. When the average value of the Elongation (EMT) is more than the above range, the knitted fabric stretches and contracts, and has a soft texture such as underwear, and the shape retention property tends to be lowered.

Woven patterns are mostly used for commercial shirts of woven fabrics; in the knitted fabric of the present invention, although a semi-jacquard loom or a single-face loom is used to repeat the weaving pattern, in order to achieve the above-mentioned elongation in the machine direction and the cross direction, in the basic structure constituting the knitted fabric, it is necessary to set the ratio of the number of weft threads to the number of knitting loops to 0.20 to 1.10. Preferably 0.25 to 1.05, and more preferably 0.25 to 1.00. In the basic structure of the knitted fabric, the number of weft yarns is constituted at a specific ratio to the number of knitting loops, so that the stretch property is suppressed and the business shirt exhibits appropriate elasticity and toughness.

The knitted fabric of the present invention may have, for example, a lattice pattern, a spiral pattern, a diamond pattern, a dot, a vertical stripe pattern, a dot, or other geometric patterns. As an example of forming a target pattern by setting the number of knitting stitches and the number of weft yarns to the above ratio in forming an actual pattern, a knitting structure and a weft ratio of weft knitting are shown in a weave diagram. Fig. 1 shows a jacobi pattern (ratio of number of weft threads/number of knitting stitches is 0.8), fig. 2 shows a birdie pattern (ratio of number of weft threads/number of knitting stitches is 0.9), fig. 3 shows a lattice pattern (ratio of number of weft threads/number of knitting stitches is 0.26), fig. 4 shows a dot pattern (ratio of number of weft threads/number of knitting stitches is 0.89) and fig. 5 shows a wale pattern (ratio of number of weft threads/number of knitting stitches is 1.00).

In the present invention, the density design of the knitted fabric is also important. The knitted fabric is adjusted to have a proper stitch density in the horizontal and vertical directions, and is formed into a knitted fabric in accordance with the above knitting structure, thereby giving a proper elasticity and toughness. The knitted fabric of the present invention is woven by a high-specification single-face loom and finished at a high density. In the knitted fabric, the wale density for finishing dyeing processing is 30-80 per 2.54 cm. Preferably 35 to 70 per 2.54cm, more preferably 40 to 65 per 2.54 cm. When the wale density is less than the above range, the flexibility becomes too high, and it is difficult to obtain elasticity and toughness, and when it is more than the above range, the yarn used is fine, so that the fabric becomes too thin, the stretching in the transverse direction becomes too small, and the wearing feeling becomes poor. In addition, the density of the knitted fabric rows subjected to dyeing processing is 40-100/2.54 cm. Preferably 45 to 85 per 2.54cm, more preferably 50 to 80 per 2.54 cm. When the course density is less than the above range, the flexibility is too high and it is difficult to obtain elasticity and toughness, and when it is more than the above range, the fabric becomes hard and the stuffy feeling is liable to be increased because the air permeability becomes low. In the knitted fabric of the present invention, when the ratio of the number of weft threads/the number of turns of knitting yarn is within the above range, the ratio of the course density to the wale density of the knitted fabric is preferably 0.90 to 2.0. More preferably 0.95 to 1.8. When the elongation is smaller than the above range or larger than the above range, the elongation of the warp and weft easily deviates from an appropriate range, and particularly, the longitudinal elongation easily becomes high.

In order to control the elongation of the warp and weft of the knitted fabric of the present invention to a value lower than that of the conventional knitted fabric, it is preferable to control the yarn length per 100wale (w) and knit the fabric. The average yarn length of all yarns constituting the knitted fabric is preferably 100 to 170 mm/100W. By setting the ratio of the number of weft threads and the yarn length of the knitted fabric in an appropriate range when a knitted pattern is formed, the knitted fabric can be provided with shape retention, elasticity, and toughness. More preferably 105 to 150 mm/100W. When the average yarn length is less than the above range, stable production is difficult and yarn shortage is liable to occur. When the amount is larger than the above range, the elongation of the knitted fabric becomes high, and the effect of the present invention is likely to be hardly obtained.

The knitted fabric of the present invention can be knitted with high density by using a circular knitting machine of relatively high specification. The knitting machine used in the present invention may be a so-called high-gauge single knitting machine in which the knitting needle density (gauge) in the needle bed is 26 or more per 1 inch (2.54cm) and the needle bed is 1 row. The specification of the weaving machine is preferably 28-55 pieces/2.54 cm. More preferably, the loom specification is 32 to 46 pieces/2.54 cm. If the loom size is larger than the above range, it is necessary to use a finer yarn, and the transparent feeling is likely to be developed, and if the size is smaller than the above range, the transparent feeling is likely to be developed, and the texture tends to be too soft.

The yarn constituting the knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably a filament yarn or a composite yarn containing at least a polyester filament yarn. The use of the polyester filament yarn can further improve the flexibility and shape retention of the knitted fabric. As the polyester filament yarn, a processed yarn such as a flat yarn (raw yarn), a false twist processed yarn, an air-entangled yarn, or the like can be used. From the viewpoint of flexibility and transparency prevention of the knitted fabric texture, the false twist yarn is more preferable. As the polyester, polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and the like; biodegradable fibers such as polylactic acid fibers. Polyester fibers are particularly preferred. The knitted fabric may contain more than 80% of these yarns. The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the yarn of the knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited, and various types of yarns having a special cross-section, such as a circular, triangular, octagonal, flat, or Y-shaped cross-section, can be used.

The fineness of the yarn is preferably 30 to 180dtex, more preferably 50 to 110 dtex. The yarns having different fineness within the above range may be cross-knitted with each other. When the fiber fineness of the yarn used is smaller than the above range, the knitted fabric has a strong transparency and weak elasticity and toughness, and when the yarn is thicker than the above range, the knitted fabric becomes thicker, and it is difficult to obtain a desirable business shirt.

In the present invention, the shape retention, elasticity and toughness are further improved, and therefore, in addition to the above measures, it is effective to use a coarse fiber having a single fiber fineness of 3 to 12 dtex. More preferably 5 to 10 dtex. The blending means may be a cross knitting, a mixed fiber with another yarn, or a knitting with a blended yarn. Preferably, the coarse fibers are mixed in the knitted fabric in a proportion of 3 to 25 wt%. The coarse fibers are very bent and hard, and therefore, when more than 25% by weight, the texture is too hard to give a rigid feeling, and tends to be uncomfortable. When the amount is less than 3% by weight, the effect of improving the elasticity and toughness is small. If the fiber having a large single fiber fineness is a long fiber, false twisting, air texturing, twisting, or the like can be performed, and raw yarn is more preferably used. The total fineness of the long fibers is preferably 30 to 120 dtex. More preferably 30 to 115 dtex. When the amount is less than the above range, the effect of improving the elasticity and toughness is small, and when the amount is more than the above range, the texture may become too hard.

The main yarn of the knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably a full-dull polyester filament yarn containing 0.6 to 5.0% by weight of white metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and zinc sulfate. The knitted fabric of the present invention is thin and can effectively prevent a sense of transparency. The blending ratio of the full-dull yarn is preferably 30-100%. When the blending ratio is low, the transparency is strong, underwear and skin are easy to see, and the appearance is poor. The knitted fabric of the present invention is a patterned fabric, and therefore, the pattern portion can be dyed in different colors, or the pattern portion can be enhanced in gloss and transparency by using a fiber or a profiled fiber having a low content of white particles in the pattern portion. Therefore, depending on the pattern used, it is preferable to use a full-dull yarn suitable in the range of the above-mentioned mixing ratio.

When a false twist yarn or a twisted yarn is used as the main yarn of the knitted fabric of the present invention, both of S twist and Z twist are preferably used. The SZ yarns may be cross-woven or may be co-twisted or aligned and woven. The shape retention property is further improved by mixing the S twisted yarn and the Z twisted yarn. Further, the present invention is intended to provide a thin high-density knitted fabric, and therefore, skewing is easily caused in a dyeing process, and the use of SZ cross knitting for main yarns also has an advantage of reducing skewing.

In the knitted fabric of the present invention, when a full dull yarn containing 0.6 to 5.0 wt% of white metal oxide is used in a base portion or a pattern portion and a cationic dye-dyeable polyester fiber is used in an opposite pattern portion or base portion, the pattern portion or base portion is dyed in a multicolor manner by dyeing after knitting to emphasize the pattern or to produce the pattern. In addition, when the polyester long yarn containing 0 to 0.5 wt% of white metal oxide is used in the opposite pattern part or the base part, even if the knitted fabric is dyed in a single color or is not dyed, the patterns can be perfectly appeared because the luster and the light transmittance of each yarn are different. However, in this case, since the transparency is not strong, it is preferable to use polyester long yarn containing 0 to 0.5% by weight of white metal oxide in the range of 1 to 50% by weight. More preferably 10 to 40% by weight.

There are also cases where a thin woven fabric is preferably used in business shirts, and the knitted fabric of the present invention is also required to be thin and lightweight for business shirts. Therefore, a single-faced knitted fabric is used in the present invention. The inventionThe weight per unit area of the knitted fabric is preferably 80-180 g/m²More preferably 90 to 160g/m²Further preferably 95 to 155g/m². When the weight per unit area is larger than the above range, the thickness becomes too large and thick, and it may not be possible to achieve the thinness and lightness required for business shirts. When the weight per unit area is less than the above range, elasticity and toughness are weakened, and there is a possibility that an appropriate contour as a business shirt cannot be formed. The thickness of the knitted fabric is preferably 0.2-0.8 mm. More preferably 0.3 to 0.6mm, and still more preferably 0.3 to 0.5 mm. In the case of a knitted fabric thinner than the above range, the transparency tends to be too strong, and in the case of a knitted fabric larger than the above range, the sense of excess tends to give the casual shirt the appearance and wearing feeling, and the knitted fabric is difficult to use as a business shirt.

In the dyeing of the knitted fabric of the present invention, a general method of processing a polyester filament yarn knitted fabric can be used, but in order to control the elongation in the machine direction and adjust the balance of the elongation in the machine direction, it is preferable to slightly stretch the knitted fabric in the machine direction than in the transverse direction so that the knitted loops of the knitted fabric are long in the machine direction. The knitted fabric of the present invention may be subjected to predetermined water-absorbing processing and various functional processing. When a knitted fabric subjected to such special processing is used, a business shirt having further improved water-absorption quick-drying properties and comfort can be obtained. Further, by performing hard finishing of an acrylic resin, a urethane resin, a melamine resin, or the like through a finishing step, elasticity and toughness can also be improved.

The mechanical properties of the knitted fabric of the present invention are based on the properties of KES (Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics). The Elongation (EMT) of the knitted fabric of the invention was determined with KES-FB 1. The Elongation (EMT) was measured as follows: clamping 20cm × 20cm samples in 5cm chuck at 4.00 × 10^-3The strain rate/sec was set to a maximum load of 250 gf/cm. The knitted fabric of the invention has low elongation and is most suitable for business shirts. The longitudinal Elongation (EMT) is 3 to 25% and the transverse Elongation (EMT) is 8 to 40%. The aspect ratio average value of EMT is preferably 9-25%. The knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized by elasticity and toughness, and can be measured as a substitute method by KES-FB 2. B isThe average value of the value and the 2HB value in the length and width directions is in the range of 0.010-0.020 N.cm/cm, and the value range of the knitted fabric is close to that of a woven fabric.

The knitted fabric of the invention can reach 60cc/cm while controlling transparency²Air permeability of sec or more. Considering that the air permeability of a general wide woven fabric used in a conventional business shirt is 20cc/cm²Sec, this value is high.

The knitted fabric is not easy to be transparent, so that the knitted fabric can be suitable for business shirts, particularly for the large bodies of the business shirts. The knitted fabric is circular knitted fabric, and the anti-transparency degree is more than 70. Further, the pattern portion is colored in light color, so that the effect that the pattern is conspicuous and the inside of the shirt is visually hardly visible can be obtained.

The business shirt used in the knitted fabric of the present invention is a shirt having a neckline that can be used in business occasions. Examples thereof include an open-collar shirt, a dress shirt, a lady dress shirt, a button shirt, and a frock shirt. While a front sheet is not required, a form having a front sheet is readily adaptable for use in more formal business situations. Furthermore, the use is not limited to commercial applications.

Examples

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Further, each performance evaluation in examples was performed by the following method.

(knitted cloth Density)

The course density (pieces/2.54 cm) and the wale density (pieces/2.54 cm) of the knitted fabric were measured in accordance with the density of the knitted fabric of JIS-L10968.6.2. In the visual measurement, the position having the largest number of knitting stitches on the stitch diagram in the wale direction (or course direction) is selected, and the number of knitting stitches is measured as the density.

(weight per unit area of knitted fabric)

The weight per unit area of the knitted fabric was measured in accordance with the mass per unit area in a standard state according to JIS-L10968.3.2A method.

(thickness of knitted cloth)

The thickness of the knitted fabric was measured according to JIS-L10968.4A method. The constant pressure under the measurement conditions was set to 23.5 kPa.

(air permeability)

The air permeability of the knitted fabric was measured according to the air permeability (Frazier method A) prescribed in JIS-L-10968.26.1.

(mechanical Properties)

The mechanical properties of knitted Fabrics comply with KES (Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics). The Elongation (EMT) of the knitted fabric was measured using KES-FB1 manufactured by Kato tech. The Elongation (EMT) was measured as follows: clamping 20cm × 20cm samples in 5cm chuck at 4.00 × 10^-3The strain rate/sec was set to a maximum load of 250 gf/cm. The EMT value of the cloth which is difficult to stretch is low. The flexural properties were determined by the following methods: using KES-FB2 manufactured by Kato tech, predetermined areas of each sample having a width of 1cm were fixed between chucks having an interval of 1cm, and the sample was bent to the front side to have a maximum curvature of +2.5cm^-1Then, the film was bent to the back side to have a maximum curvature of-2.5 cm^-1And then, the original shape is recovered. The bending rigidity (B) is calculated from an inclination angle at which the bending moment is almost constant with respect to the initial bending curvature inclination angle to the front face sideN·cm²/cm]. Further, the bending recovery (2HB) is determined from the width of Hysteresis (hysterisis)N·cm/cm]. The larger the B value, the harder the bending and the higher the elasticity tend to be. The larger the 2HB value is, the poorer the bending recovery and the lower the toughness tend to be.

(sensory evaluation of elasticity and toughness)

As the texture evaluation of elasticity and toughness when touching the fabric with a hand, 5 grades of the "elasticity and toughness" of the cotton fabric were evaluated with the highest grade of 5 and the lowest grade of 1. The determination is made by a person familiar with texture.

(transparency feeling)

Evaluation was performed using the BOKEN standard BQE a038 anti-transparency test of the BOKEN quality-of-textile evaluation agency of general consortium. The skin side of the test piece was superimposed on a white plate, and the reflectance (RS-white) of visible light (380nm to 780nm) on the outer surface side was measured. The plate was similarly overlaid with black, reflectance (Rs-black) was measured, and anti-transparency was calculated. When the anti-transparency is 74 or more, there is no fear that the transparent feeling can be used as a dress shirt.

Anti-transparency Rs-black/Rs-white x 100

(W & W Property of knitted Fabric)

The morphological stability (W & W properties) of the full-dress shirt was evaluated in accordance with the joint method of quality performance countermeasures for clothing products and the like (the joint method of properties of pinpouenin for アパレル products and the like ). The determination was performed using the determination criteria stereoscopic copy specified in AATCC 124-. The results of the determination are represented by 5 (good) to 1 (bad).

(shape-retaining Property of product)

Using JIS-L1060: 2012 in the pleating property test of the knitted fabric, the three-dimensional appearance of the wrinkle shape after washing was evaluated as an alternative to the shape retention property. The grade of the wrinkle shape before washing and the grade of the wrinkle shape after repeating the washing operation and the drying operation 5 times are determined according to the determination standard. As the crinkle determination criterion, a 5-stage determination criterion three-dimensional replica specified in AATCC TestMethod 88C was used. The results of the determination are represented by 5 (good) to 1 (bad).

(ease of movement of upper body when wearing a dress shirt)

After sewing the fabric into a long-sleeved dress shirt having a collar circumference 41 and a sleeve length 84, a middle-sized male of 30 years old was allowed to wear the shirt with both hands extended sideways, and the ease of movement (resistance of the fabric to movement) when both hands/shoulders were horizontally rotated about the spine was taken as a sensory value, and the ease of movement was determined as follows: Δ >. times: the sequence of difficult activities was evaluated three-dimensionally.

(example 1)

A fabric having a 90-feed biroll jacquard pattern formed of a perfect structure F1 to F10 shown in fig. 1 was knitted by using a 30-inch 28-gauge single-face circular knitting machine (VXC-3 FA manufactured by fukunjin machine). At this time, 110dtex (T) and 48filament (F) false twist polyethylene terephthalate yarns, which are circular cross-section yarns obtained by kneading 1.5 wt% of titanium oxide fine particles, were used as the yarn feeders F4, F5, F9 and F10. Next, a false twist yarn of 84T36F, which is a circular cross-section yarn of high-pressure cation-dyeable polyester, was used at the yarn feeders F2, F3, F7, and F8. Then, 56T36F raw yarn as a half-dull yarn having a flat cross section (warp/weft ratio 1: 5) containing 0.4 wt% of titanium oxide fine particles was used at the yarn feeders F1, F6. The yarn lengths of the respective feeders were 155mm/100W for F2, F3, F4, F7, F8, F9, 205mm/100W for F5, F10, and then 108mm/100W for F1, F6. The average yarn length of F1-10 is 125 mm/100W.

The finished greige cloth was opened, refined and dyed according to the following recipe. Refining formula: the NS model of a liquid flow dyeing machine manufactured by Nikka manufacturing, Ritian chemical ノニゾール N1 g/l, Rihua chemical Neocrytal CG10000.5g/l, sodium carbonate 0.5g/l, bath ratio 1: 15, 95 ℃ for 30 minutes.

The dyeing formula comprises the following components: NS type flow dyeing machine manufactured by Nisaka corporation, bath ratio 1: 15130 ℃ C.. times.45 minutes, acetic acid 0.2g/l pH 4, Ming chemical ディスパー N7000.5 g/l, Rihua chemical Neocrytal GC10000.5g/l, high pine oil SR 18001.5% owf, disperse cationic dye Kayacryl Ligt Blue4GSL-ED 1.0% omf, dyeing, centrifugal dehydration, drying (120 ℃ C.. times.3 minutes), applying finishing agent under the following conditions, and drying. The liquid pick-up of the finish was 90%.

サンスタット ES-11 (Sanyo chemical industry manufacturing antistatic agent) 1% ows (on the weight of solution)

Thereafter, final finishing was performed under conditions of 160 ℃x2 minutes in a pin tenter to adjust the amount of properties, to obtain a final fabric. Upon completion a slight tensile force is applied in the longitudinal direction. The density of the finished knitted fabric is 71 rows/2.54 cm, and 43 wales/2.54 cm. The detailed configuration and evaluation results of the completed knitted fabric are shown in table 1.

(example 2)

A gray fabric having a thousand-bird pattern formed of the full structure F1 to F14 shown in fig. 2 was knitted by using a 30-inch and 36-gauge half-jacquard circular knitting machine (JSIII manufactured by fukui seiko machine). At this time, 110T and 48F polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarns (Z twist) as circular cross-section yarns mixed with 1.5 wt% of titanium oxide fine particles were used at the yarn feeders F1, F3, F5, F7, F9, F11, and F13. Subsequently, 84T and 36F polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarns (Z twist) were used as round-section yarns mixed with 0.1 wt% of titanium oxide fine particles at the yarn feeders F2, F4, F6, F8, F10, F12, and F14. The average yarn length of the yarns constituting the F1-14 repeat structure is 135 mm/100W.

Dyeing was performed in the same manner as in example 1, except that the finished fabric was finished in beige without using a dye. The density of the finished knitted fabric is 69 rows/2.54 cm, and 51 wales/2.54 cm. The detailed composition and evaluation results of the completed knitted fabric are shown in table 1.

(example 3)

A lattice pattern fabric formed of a perfect structure F1 to F40 shown in fig. 3 was woven by using the same loom as in example 2. The yarn used was a 110T, 48f polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn as a circular cross-section yarn mixed with 1.5 wt% titanium oxide fine particles. In this case, the odd-numbered feeders of the yarn feeder port use S-twist, and the even-numbered feeders use Z-twist false-twist yarns. The average yarn length of odd-numbered F of F1-F19 was 135mm/100W, and the average yarn length of odd-numbered F of F21-F39 was 110 mm/100W. The average yarn length of even-numbered F of F2 to F40 was 165 mm/100W. The average yarn length of the whole yarn constituting the perfect texture was 144 mm/100W.

The completed fabric was dyed in the same manner as in example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric having a density of 76 rows/2.54 cm and 61 wales/2.54 cm. The detailed composition and evaluation results of the completed knitted fabric are shown in table 1.

(example 4)

A gray fabric having a dotted pattern formed by multicolor dyeing of the perfect tissues F1 to F12 shown in fig. 4 was woven by using the same loom as in example 2. In this case, the yarns at the yarn feeding ports F2 to 6 and F8 to 11 as the base yarns were polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarns of 110T and 48F as circular cross-section yarns kneaded with 1.5 wt% titanium oxide fine particles. In addition, as the yarns of the yarn feeding ports F1 and F7, a false twist yarn of cationic dye dyeable polyester 110T36F having a circular cross section was used, and as the yarn F12, a full-dull polyester long fiber vitamin yarn 110T12F (10dpf) having a large single fiber fineness and a circular cross section was used. The average yarn lengths of the F1 and F7 yarns were 108mm/100W, and the average yarn length of the other yarn 110T48F false twist yarn was 146 mm/100W. The average yarn length of all the yarns used in the repeat was 146 mm/100W.

The finished fabric was dyed in the same manner as in example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. The density of the finished knitted fabric is 57 rows/2.54 cm and 48 wales/2.54 cm. The detailed composition and evaluation results of the completed knitted fabric are shown in table 1.

(example 5)

A multicolor dyed wale gray fabric by weft knitting composed of a perfect structure F1 to F4 shown in fig. 5 was knitted by using a 30-inch 46-gauge single-face circular knitting machine (VXC-3 SD manufactured by fukino machine). At this time, as the base yarn in the yarn feeders F3 and F4, a polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn of 84T48F, which is a circular cross-section yarn mixed with 1.5 wt% of titanium oxide fine particles, was used, and the yarn was twisted with Z in F3 and S in F4, respectively. In addition, a false twist yarn (Z twist) of 84T36F, which is a circular cross-section yarn dyeable with cationic dye having a spot portion formed on the surface, was used for the yarn feeder F2, and a raw yarn 56T6F (10dpf), which is a polyester long fiber having a full dull circular cross-section and a large single fiber fineness, was used for the F1. As the yarn length of each yarn feeder, the average yarn length of F1 was 112mm/100W, and the average yarn lengths of F2 to F4 were 120 mm/100W. The average yarn length of the yarns constituting the F1-4 repeat structure is 118 mm/100W.

The finished fabric was dyed in the same manner as in example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. The density of the finished knitted fabric is 64 rows/2.54 cm and 32 wales/2.54 cm. The detailed constitution and the evaluation results are shown in table 1. The detailed composition and evaluation results of the completed knitted fabric are shown in table 1.

Comparative example 1

A plain blank fabric shown in fig. 6 was knitted by using the same loom as in example 1. The yarn used was a polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn (Z twist) of 84T48f as a circular cross-section yarn blended with 0.4 wt% titanium oxide fine particles. The average yarn length of each feeder was 220 mm/100W.

The completed gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in example 2 to obtain a knitted fabric. The density of the finished knitted fabric is 48 rows/2.54 cm and 70 wales/2.54 cm. The detailed composition and evaluation results of the completed knitted fabric are shown in table 1.

Comparative example 2

A reversed-bead geomesh fabric shown in fig. 7 was woven by using the same loom as in example 1. The yarn used was a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn of 84T48f as a circular cross-section yarn mixed with 1.5 wt% titanium oxide fine particles, which was alternately woven with a S false twisted yarn and a Z false twisted yarn. The average yarn length of all the yarns constituting the repeat structure was 187 mm/100W.

The finished fabric was dyed in the same manner as in example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. The density of the finished knitted fabric is 60 rows/2.54 cm and 51 wales/2.54 cm. The detailed composition and evaluation results of the completed knitted fabric are shown in table 1.

Comparative example 3

Australian cotton (micronaire: 4.0 to 4.6, average fiber length: 1.12 to 1.21 inches, strength: 30 to 34g/tex) and polyester staple fiber (fineness: 1.5dtex, fiber length 38mm) were blended at a ratio of 50 wt% each, and subjected to a usual spinning pre-spinning process (cotton-carding-sliver-roving) to prepare 120gren/15yd roving, and then a ring spinning apparatus RX-240(リンクコーナー) manufactured by Toyota textile Co., Ltd was used to manufacture a 40Ne (British cotton count) staple yarn with a twist factor k of 3.7, a total draft of 38.4, and a brake draft of 1.40. The spun yarn was used for the warp and weft, a flat woven fabric having a warp density of 127 pieces/2.54 cm and a weft density of 70 pieces/2.54 cm was woven, singeing, desizing, continuous refining, bleaching, mercerizing were performed by a usual method, further continuous refining dyeing was performed using a disperse dye and a reactive dye to obtain a saxon blue (saxe) color, and then a softener was applied to the fabric by a tenter to finish the fabric. The density of the finished product is 129 pieces/2.54 cm and 72 pieces/2.54 cm. The detailed composition and evaluation results of the finished woven fabric are shown in table 1.

[ Table 1]

Industrial applicability of the invention

The present invention can provide a knitted fabric for business shirts that ensures a texture comparable to the elasticity and toughness of a business shirt made of a normal woven fabric, is difficult to be transparent, has excellent air permeability, and contributes significantly to the industry.

Claims

1. A knitted fabric for a business shirt, characterized in that it is a single-sided knitted fabric formed of a pattern structure in which the basic structure of the knitted fabric is a ratio of the number of weft threads to the number of knitting coils of 0.20 to 1.10, the course density is 40 to 100/2.54 cm, the wale density is 30 to 80/2.54 cm, the longitudinal elongation EMT is 3 to 20%, the lateral elongation EMT is 8 to 40%, the average yarn length of all the yarns constituting the knitted fabric is 100 to 170mm/100W, and the knitted fabric for a business shirt comprises 3 to 25% by weight of a polyester long fiber having a monofilament fineness of 3 to 12dtex and a total fineness of 30 to 120 dtex.

2. The knitted fabric for a business shirt according to claim 1, comprising 3 to 25% by weight of the polyester long fiber having a single fiber fineness of 5 to 10dtex and a total fiber fineness of 30 to 115 dtex.

3. The knitted fabric for a business shirt according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the base portion is formed of polyester fibers containing 0.6 to 5.0% by weight of white metal oxide, and the pattern portion is formed of polyester fibers containing 0 to 0.5% by weight of white metal oxide.

4. The knitted fabric for business shirts according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the base portion is formed of polyester fibers containing 0.6 to 5.0% by weight of white metal oxide, and the pattern portion is formed of polyester fibers dyeable with cationic dye.

5. A business shirt characterized in that the knitted fabric for a business shirt according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is used on the shirt body.