CN103126081A - Business shirt - Google Patents
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- CN103126081A CN103126081A CN 201110385425 CN201110385425A CN103126081A CN 103126081 A CN103126081 A CN 103126081A CN 201110385425 CN201110385425 CN 201110385425 CN 201110385425 A CN201110385425 A CN 201110385425A CN 103126081 A CN103126081 A CN 103126081A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a business shirt. The shell fabric of the business shirt is knitted fabric which is mainly composed of water absorption quick-drying yarns and nylon composite yarns. The gram weight of the knitted fabric is 50-180 g/m <2>, and the bending rigidity of the knitted fabric is more than 1.0 * 10 <-3> g f cm <2>/cm. The stiffness of used lining cloth is more than 80 mm. Used sewing threads comprise elastic threads, and the ratio of the stitch elongation to the elongation of the knitted fabric is more than or equal to 0.6. The business shirt has superior cotton imitation hand feeling and wear resistance, and the problem of stitch thread breaking or thread off in wearing is solved.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of knitted shirt, be specifically related to a kind of business shirt.
Background technology
The shirt of selling in the market is divided into knitted shirt and tatting shirt.Knitted shirt and tatting shirt fabric major part all adopt mercerized cotton, cotton textiles or mulberry silk.A little less than antimicrobial properties containing cotton fabric, be difficult for keeping, and when moisture content is too much cotton fiber easily expand, aeration variation and damp is arranged, be difficult for quick-drying.Easily after wrinkling washing, need flatiron although silk fabric dress in summer is nice and cool, light resistance is poor, and under daylight, easily yellowing becomes fragile.Most importantly shirt is worn a period of time neck position and just easily grind away in the cuff position, attractive in appearance not.In addition, if the ratio of the percentage elongation of the seam mark percentage elongation of knitting shirt and knitted fabric is less than normal, easily broken string or off-line, can not produce and hinder human body when stretching even sometimes break.
In No. 3546999th, Japanese Patent Laid, a kind of business shirt fabric is disclosed, this shirt fabric is handed over and is compiled with chemical-fibres filaments (as terylene) by short fiber (as cotton yarn), or directly adopts chemical-fibres filaments (as terylene) to hand over and compile gained with the composite yarn of short fiber (as cotton).This fabric has solved the problems such as bending stiffness of knitted shirt to a certain extent, but its wearability also is short of to some extent; And owing to also containing the cotton fiber of easy moisture expantion in fabric, therefore shape-retaining ability is poor; In No. 3599636th, Japanese Patent Laid, a kind of business shirt fabric is also disclosed and for example, poor owing to containing the cotton fiber shape-retaining ability too; These technology all do not have to solve the problem of stitching mark broken string or off-line in wearing stretching process while stretching in addition.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of business shirt that simultaneously there is superior anti-wear performance, shape-retaining ability and imitative cotton feel.This business shirt not only can keep original comfortableness containing cotton shirt, but also has improved its wearability, durability etc., has improved the recycling rate of clothes; The problem of broken string or off-line when in addition, the improvement by opposite joint mark percentage elongation has solved and worn.
Business shirt of the present invention mainly comprises fabric, lining cloth and sewing thread, and the fabric here is for mainly by water-absorbing fast-drying yarn and the formed knitted fabric of nylon composite yarn, and the grammes per square metre of this knitted fabric is 50～180g/m
2, according to the KES standard, the bending stiffness B value of this knitted fabric is at 1.0*10
-3gfcm
2more than/cm.Be fitted with the stiffness of lining cloth part on above-mentioned fabric more than 80mm, can fully guarantee the shape-retaining ability as the business shirt purposes; And contain elastic thread in sewing thread, and the ratio of the percentage elongation of seam mark percentage elongation and above-mentioned knitted fabric is more than 0.7.If ratio is less than 0.7, the problem of broken string or off-line easily occurs while wearing, hinder human motion.
Above-mentioned water-absorbing fast-drying yarn can be that the section Polyester Yarns can be also the section nylon yarn.In order further to improve the water imbibition of fabric, preferably after dyeing, this knitted fabric is carried out to water-absorbing resin processing again and process.
Collar, cuff, the left front position of considering business shirt often are subject to friction, cracky, thus consider also to use lining cloth at above-mentioned position, and its grammes per square metre is at 80～180g/m
2between.Adopt during the laminating of the lining cloth here and knitted fabric and use a kind of in HDPE glue, PE glue, PET glue or PA glue on lining cloth, some glue applies and forms.Can improve wash durability, separation strength like this.
The preferred percentage elongation of elastic thread in the present invention's sewing thread used is between 5%～25%.If the elastic thread percentage elongation in sewing thread is less than 5%, the percentage elongation of stitching can be affected, for example at the armhole place, can produce the power hindered to human body.
The seam mark of business shirt of the present invention is one or more that flatcar seam mark, crosspointer seam mark, three pin five stitch, four lines bind off in seam mark, chain stitch.
Above-mentioned nylon composite yarn is the nylon Ta Silong yarn of fiber number between 50～300 daniers.The nylon Ta Silong yarn here is that Tynex and Tynex or polyester filament are composited.Nylon Ta Silong yarn not only can improve the wearability of fabric, and has good imitative cotton feel.
Consider the extensibility of business shirt, also contain spandex fibre in above-mentioned knitted fabric.
Knitted fabric of the present invention can be that warp-knitted fabric can be also weft-knitted fabric, can for the flat pin of weft knitting, rib-loop, purl stitch, chaining through compiling, through gentle through suede tissue and pattern tissue; Can also be that two or more organize composite braided knitted fabric.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows and improved cotton products due to moisture content yarn moisture expantion, gas permeability variation and the bad points such as damp are arranged when too much.Utilize nylon composite yarn and water-absorbing fast-drying yarn to replace the knitted fabric of cotton fiber braiding.This product not only possessed cotton fiber softness, but also improved the bad point such as moisture expantion, also strengthened the wearability of shirt, the service life that water-absorbing fast-drying makes clothes and extended.
The specific embodiment
Below by embodiment and comparative example, the invention will be further described.
Performance test methods related in the present invention is as follows:
(1) rupture strength (JIS-L-1018A method)
(2) water-absorbing fast-drying (GB/T 21655.1)
(3) bending stiffness (KES standard)
(4) seam mark, knitted fabric percentage elongation
A. learn from else's experience, each 3 of broadwise 10cm * about 15cm knitted fabrics, and the seam mark 5cm of warp-wise, broadwise * about 15cm.
B. use the constant speed that self-recording unit is housed to uphold the shape cupping machine, 2.54cm * 2.54cm is loaded onto in front, and reverse side is loaded onto the clip of 2.54cm * 5.08cm, and clip is spaced apart 7.6cm, adds the initial load of 29mN (3g), fixedly clamps.
C. be stretched to 14.7N (1.5kg) with draw speed 10cm/min, measure clip spacing (reading to 1/2mm) now, by following formula, ask percentage elongation (%), learn from else's experience, the mean value of latitude (remain into decimal point after 1 figure place).
L: clip spacing (mm)
L1: the clip spacing (mm) while being stretched to 14.7N (1.5kg)
(5) stiffness
A. choose 5 of the test films of 2cm * about 15cm.
B. use an end that the cantilever style exerciser on 45 degree inclined-planes is arranged, upward, the minor face of an end is exactly in alignment with the horizontal line of the scale of the inclined-plane side of exerciser on the surface of test film.
C. test film slowly slides at bevel direction, the position (reading 0.5mm) of the other end when with scale, correctly reading an end of test film and inclined-plane and join.
D. by above-mentioned test film of the trying to achieve length of position separately, according to following formula, calculate stiffness (mm), with the mean values of 5, mean (to whole figure place).
Stiffness (mm)=A-A1
A: initial length (mm); A1: the length while joining with inclined-plane (mm)
Embodiment 1
On the single face braider of 33 inches, 24 pin, adopt 75D-48f-nylon Ta Silong yarn 70 % by weight and 75D-36f-terylene cross section water-absorbing fast-drying yarn 30 % by weight to weave and make single face jacquard knitting grey cloth, wherein nylon Ta Silong yarn Tynex and Tynex are composited, again through concise (95 ℃ of temperature, scouring agent 5g/l, caustic soda 10g/l) → liquid flowing dyeing → after arrange (water-absorbing resin finishing agent 10g/l, liquid carrying rate 68%) → arrange and finalize the design (160 ℃, speed 50m/min), obtain knitted fabric; Gained knitted fabric grammes per square metre 145g/m
2, thickness 1.02mm, horizontal close 38/inch, vertical close 60/inch, rupture strength 0.46mpa, water absorption rate 236%, evaporation rate 0.25g/h, bending stiffness B value 0.0253gfcm
2/ cm, skin-friction coefficient 0.314;
Above-mentioned knitted fabric being carried out to cutting makes and make business shirt of the present invention, wherein cutting again: it is 180g/m that collar, cuff, left front position are fitted with grammes per square metre
2lining cloth, pressing laminating condition: temperature 160 degree, pressure 3kg/m
2, whole boiling hot time 15s.Make: adopt flatcar, four lines bind off and the method for sewing of crosspointer, the polyester thread that upper thread is 40S/2, bottom line is the nylon elastic line that 100D/2, percentage elongation are 15%.The stiffness that is fitted with the lining cloth part in the gained business shirt on fabric is 80mm; Seam mark percentage elongation: the ratio of knitted fabric percentage elongation is 0.8.
Embodiment 2
On the single-side jacquard of 30 inches, 28 pin, adopt 75D-48f-nylon Ta Silong yarn 45 % by weight, 150D-48f-nylon cross section water-absorbing fast-drying yarn 45 % by weight and spandex 10 % by weight, the complex tissue that jacquard weave and inlaid thread tissue combine weaves and makes knitted fabric, wherein nylon Ta Silong yarn is that Tynex and polyester filament are composited, pass through again concise (95 ℃ of temperature, scouring agent 5g/l, caustic soda 10g/l) → (190 ℃ of middle typings, speed 40m/min) → liquid flowing dyeing → rear (water-absorbing resin finishing agent 10g/l that arranges, liquid carrying rate 68%) → arrange and finalize the design (160 ℃, speed 50m/min), obtain knitted fabric, gained knitted fabric grammes per square metre 165g/m
2, thickness 0.97mm, horizontal close 38/inch, vertical close 54/inch, rupture strength 0.52mpa, water absorption rate 252%, evaporation rate 0.2g/h, bending stiffness B value 0.0269gfcm
2/ cm, skin-friction coefficient 0.489,
Above-mentioned knitted fabric being carried out to cutting makes and make business shirt of the present invention, wherein cutting again: it is 130g/m that collar, cuff, left front position are fitted with grammes per square metre
2lining cloth, pressing laminating condition: temperature 160 degree, pressure 3kg/m
2, whole boiling hot time 15S.Make: three pin five lines, four lines bind off and the method for sewing of crosspointer, the polyester thread that upper thread is 60/3, and bottom line is the terylene elastic thread that 100D*2, percentage elongation are 22%.The stiffness that is fitted with the lining cloth part in the gained business shirt on fabric is 100mm; Seam mark percentage elongation: the ratio of above-mentioned knitted fabric percentage elongation is 0.7.
Embodiment 3
On the tricot machine of 130 inches, 24 pin, adopt 50D-36f-nylon Ta Silong yarn 70 % by weight and 75D-36f-terylene cross section water-absorbing fast-drying yarn 30 % by weight, the complex tissue formed through suede tissue and laying-in tissue bond weaves and forms through compiling grey cloth, wherein nylon Ta Silong yarn is that Tynex and Tynex are composited, again through concise (95 ℃ of temperature, scouring agent 5g/l, caustic soda 10g/l) → liquid flowing dyeing → after arrange (water-absorbing resin finishing agent 10g/l, liquid carrying rate 70%) → arrange and finalize the design (160 ℃, speed 50m/min), obtain knitted fabric; Gained knitted fabric grammes per square metre 170g/m
2, thickness 1.15mm, horizontal close 37/inch, vertical close 54/inch, rupture strength 0.52mpa, water absorption rate 255%, evaporation rate 0.3g/h, bending stiffness B value 0.0306gfcm
2/ cm, skin-friction coefficient 0.305;
Above-mentioned knitted fabric being carried out to cutting makes and make business shirt of the present invention, wherein cutting again: it is 165g/m that collar, cuff and sack position are fitted with grammes per square metre
2lining cloth, fusing condition: temperature 160 degree, pressure are 3kg/m
2, whole boiling hot time 15S.Make: four lines bind off and the method for sewing of crosspointer, the polyester thread that upper thread is 40S/3, and bottom line is that percentage elongation is 15%, the terylene elastic thread of 100D/2*100D.The stiffness that is fitted with the lining cloth part in the gained business shirt on fabric is 104mm; Seam mark percentage elongation: the ratio of above-mentioned knitted fabric percentage elongation is 0.9.
Embodiment 4
On the Double-plate machine of 34 inches, 24 pin, adopt 150D-48f-nylon Ta Silong yarn 70 % by weight and 100D-36f-terylene cross section water-absorbing fast-drying yarn 30 % by weight, the complex tissue that figured texture weave and drawn needle are combined into weaves and forms weft-knitted jacquard woven grey, wherein nylon Ta Silong yarn is that Tynex and Tynex are composited, again through concise (95 ℃ of temperature, scouring agent 5g/l, caustic soda 10g/l) → liquid flowing dyeing → after arrange (water-absorbing resin finishing agent 10g/l, liquid carrying rate 70%) → arrange and finalize the design (160 ℃, speed 50m/min), obtain knitted fabric; Gained knitted fabric grammes per square metre 190g/m
2, thickness 1.25mm, horizontal close 30/inch, vertical close 48/inch, rupture strength 0.52mpa, water absorption rate 255%, evaporation rate 0.28g/h, bending stiffness B value 0.0315gfcm
2/ cm, skin-friction coefficient is 0.319;
Above-mentioned knitted fabric being carried out to cutting makes and make business shirt of the present invention, wherein cutting again: it is 165g/m that collar, cuff and left front position are fitted with grammes per square metre
2lining cloth, fusing condition: temperature 165 degree, pressure are 3kg/m
2, whole boiling hot time 12S.Make: adopt chain type, four lines bind off and the method for sewing of crosspointer, the polyester thread that upper thread is 60S/3, bottom line is the terylene elastic thread that 100D/2*100D, percentage elongation are 25%.The stiffness that is fitted with the lining cloth part in the gained business shirt on fabric is 104mm; Seam mark percentage elongation: the ratio of above-mentioned knitted fabric percentage elongation is 0.8.
Comparative example 1
Adopt the knitted shirt of mercerized cotton 100%, grammes per square metre 163g/m
2thickness 1.25mm, horizontal close 48/inch, vertical close 54/inch, the warp-stretch rate is 26.4%, the weft direction stretch rate is 97.5%, the percentage elongation of bottom broadwise flatcar seam mark is 60%, and the percentage elongation that now stitches mark is 0.62 with the ratio of the percentage elongation of knitted fabric broadwise, so the phenomenon broken occurs when pulling at.
Claims (7)
1. a business shirt, mainly comprise fabric, lining cloth and sewing thread, it is characterized in that: the knitted fabric of the fabric of this business shirt for mainly being formed by water-absorbing fast-drying yarn and nylon composite yarn, the grammes per square metre of described knitted fabric is 50～180g/m
2, bending stiffness is at 1.0*10
-3gfcm
2more than/cm; Be fitted with the stiffness of lining cloth part on described fabric more than 80mm; Contain elastic thread in described sewing thread, and the ratio of the percentage elongation of seam mark percentage elongation/knitted fabric>=0.7.
2. business shirt according to claim 1 is characterized in that: being fitted with lining cloth on described fabric is partly collar and cuff, and its grammes per square metre is 80～180g/m
2.
3. business shirt according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described elastic thread percentage elongation is between 5%～25%.
4. business shirt according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described seam mark is one or more that flatcar seam mark, crosspointer seam mark, three pin five stitch, four lines bind off in seam mark, chain stitch.
5. business shirt according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described nylon composite yarn is the nylon Ta Silong yarn of fiber number between 50～300 daniers.
6. business shirt according to claim 5 is characterized in that: described nylon Ta Silong yarn is the yarn that Tynex and Tynex or polyester filament are composited.
7. business shirt according to claim 1, is characterized in that: also contain spandex fibre in described knitted fabric.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 201110385425 CN103126081A (en) | 2011-11-29 | 2011-11-29 | Business shirt |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 201110385425 CN103126081A (en) | 2011-11-29 | 2011-11-29 | Business shirt |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN103126081A true CN103126081A (en) | 2013-06-05 |
Family
ID=48487018
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 201110385425 Pending CN103126081A (en) | 2011-11-29 | 2011-11-29 | Business shirt |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN103126081A (en) |
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104988633A (en) * | 2015-06-15 | 2015-10-21 | 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 | High-elastic and high-fluffy ultra-cotton-imitated fabric and production technology of same |
| CN105525445A (en) * | 2016-01-25 | 2016-04-27 | 远东服装（苏州）有限公司 | Full-automatic top fly sewing machine |
| CN111051590A (en) * | 2017-09-20 | 2020-04-21 | 东洋纺Stc株式会社 | Knitted fabric for business shirt |
| CN111321544A (en) * | 2018-12-13 | 2020-06-23 | 深圳市金绒达新材料科技有限公司 | Processing method of knitted clothes |
-
2011
- 2011-11-29 CN CN 201110385425 patent/CN103126081A/en active Pending
Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104988633A (en) * | 2015-06-15 | 2015-10-21 | 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 | High-elastic and high-fluffy ultra-cotton-imitated fabric and production technology of same |
| CN105525445A (en) * | 2016-01-25 | 2016-04-27 | 远东服装（苏州）有限公司 | Full-automatic top fly sewing machine |
| CN111051590A (en) * | 2017-09-20 | 2020-04-21 | 东洋纺Stc株式会社 | Knitted fabric for business shirt |
| CN111051590B (en) * | 2017-09-20 | 2022-03-11 | 东洋纺Stc株式会社 | Knitted fabric for business shirt |
| CN111321544A (en) * | 2018-12-13 | 2020-06-23 | 深圳市金绒达新材料科技有限公司 | Processing method of knitted clothes |
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Application publication date: 20130605 |