JP5994036B1 - Business shirt knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

[Problem] To provide a knitted fabric which is a knitted fabric but does not stretch too much, and has a suitable degree of elongation and softness, breathability and form stability as a business shirt. SOLUTION: A single circular knitted fabric having a basis weight of 80 to 180 g / m2, a course density of 40 to 100 pieces / 2.54 cm, the circular knitted fabric has a horizontal border pattern, and has a fineness of 50 to 180 dtex. The welt tengu structure using the yarn constitutes 50% or more of the entire area, the longitudinal elongation rate (EMT) is 15 to 40%, and the lateral elongation rate (EMT) is 10 to 25%. Characteristic knitted fabric for business shirts. [Selection figure] None

Description

  The present invention relates to a knitted fabric for business shirts that is excellent in stretch (stretchability), breathability, and sheer prevention while having firmness and stiffness.

  Shirts worn mainly in the business scene, such as conventional shirts, dress shirts, casual shirts, blouse, etc., are woven fabrics in which wefts are woven with warp yarns orthogonal to warp yarns. It is used. The reason for this is that the woven fabric is excellent in silhouette because it has a fine texture, is firm, and is strong. However, since the warp and the weft are closely crossed and tightly bound to each other, the air permeability is poor, and the inferior flexibility and stretchability are factors that impede comfort during wearing. For example, during summer commuting, when working outside, or when performing operations that involve hard movements, sweat that perspires is not easily dissipated to the outside, making it easy to get stuffy or sticky, and is not flexible. There is a problem that the fabric tends to stick to the skin and the comfort tends to be inferior.

In order to solve such a problem, the present applicant tried to make a fabric for a business shirt with a knitted fabric, and was a knitted knitted fabric of spun yarn and filament, and was bent per basis weight in the vertical and horizontal directions. Proposed knitted fabric for business shirts having a stiffness (B / M) of 1.7 × 10 ⁻⁴ or more, an elongation rate (EMT) of 10% or more, and a bending back property (2HB) of 0.060 gfcm / cm or less ( Patent Document 1). Although this method can provide a knitted fabric for business shirts that has moderate elasticity and stiffness, and is excellent in water-absorbing quick-drying and skin-releasing properties, a filament having no fluff and a spun yarn having a lot of surface fluff are mixed. There is a problem in that it is necessary to knit and the surface becomes uneven.

Further, the present applicant is formed of a fabric made of a single knit knitted fabric having a basis weight of 155 g / m ² or less and 90 g / m ² or more and a wale density of 30 wales / 2.54 cm or more. The present inventors have proposed a knitted fabric knitted with a composite yarn having a fine count of 30/1 or less composed of spun yarn and filament yarn (see Patent Document 2). However, this method also requires the use of long and short composite spun yarns composed of short fibers and filaments.

  Further, as an attempt by devising the knitting structure, a single circular knitted fabric composed of a front yarn and a back yarn has been proposed (see Patent Document 3). This knitted fabric is characterized in that on the sinker loop surface, there is a bridging portion in which the distance between the bridging portions between the stitches by the welt is 1 stitch or more and 8 stitches or less. However, according to this method, there is a problem that the knitted fabric becomes thick due to the structure of the front yarn and the back yarn. In addition, since there are many tengu stitches, there has been a problem that the elongation of the knitted fabric is increased and the shape retention is liable to be lowered.

JP 2001-303403 A JP 2001-303301 A JP2013-104158A

  The present invention has been made in view of the above-described problems of the prior art, and the purpose thereof is a knitted fabric that does not extend too much, and is suitable for business shirts with a suitable degree of elongation and softness, breathability, and shape stability. The purpose is to provide a knitted fabric having both. Another object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric for business shirts that has sufficient stretchability and flexibility without knitting filaments and spun yarns or using long and short composite spun yarns composed of filaments and short fibers. There is. Furthermore, the objective of this invention is providing the knitted fabric for business shirts with little translucency, although it is a thin knitted fabric.

  In order to achieve the above object, the present inventors have intensively studied by adopting a single circular knitted fabric to make a thin knitted fabric for the purpose of serving as a business shirt, and as a result, knit the basic structure of the knitted fabric. Knitting for business shirts with moderate tension and stiffness while maintaining the flexibility of the knitted fabric by sufficiently increasing the course density by making it a wel tengu consisting of a series of welts and welts The present inventors have found that the ground can be provided and have completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention has the following configurations (1) to (4).
(1) It consists of a single circular knitted fabric with a basis weight of 80 to 180 g / m ² and a course density of 40 to 100 pieces / 2.54 cm. The circular knitted fabric has a horizontal border pattern and has a fineness of 50 to 180 dtex. The welt tengu structure using the yarn constitutes 50% or more of the entire area, the longitudinal elongation rate (EMT) is 15 to 40%, and the lateral elongation rate (EMT) is 10 to 25%. Characteristic knitted fabric for business shirts.
(2) The knitted fabric for a business shirt according to (1), wherein the yarn constituting the horizontal border pattern is made of a filament containing 0.6 to 5.0% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles.
(3) The knitted fabric for business shirts as described in (1) or (2), wherein the tissue forming the horizontal border pattern is a tengu tissue or a sorghum tissue.
(4) A business shirt characterized in that the horizontal border pattern of the knitted fabric for a business shirt according to any one of (1) to (3) is used as a vertical stripe pattern.

  According to the present invention, for example, using a full-polyester false twisted yarn containing titanium oxide fine particles excellent in see-through prevention property, a single circular knitted fabric is formed at a high density, and further, a knit loop called a welt tenshi By constituting the welt structure with a structure knitted alternately, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric for business shirts having an appropriate stretch property and a high air permeability that are not found in a woven fabric while having an excellent anti-slipping property. Furthermore, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, since the horizontal knitted pattern of the circular knitted fabric is used as a vertical stripe pattern often used for business shirts, shape stability in the vertical direction which is important as a business shirt can be obtained. For example, the border pattern may be different in appearance from a knitting structure that is different from the welt tengu of the base structure, or the border pattern, dyeability, or color may be different due to the use of different luster or transparency in the same welt tenji structure. The yarn can be partially used as a border pattern.

FIG. 1 shows a knitting organization chart of a welt tengu. FIG. 2 shows a knitting structure diagram in which a woven tengu of the ground structure is used as an ultra-fine border pattern of a tengu knitting. FIG. 3 shows a knitting organization chart in which a welt tengu of the ground organization is formed as a canoco border pattern. FIG. 4 shows a knitting structure chart used in Example 1. FIG. 5 shows a knitting structure chart used in the second embodiment. FIG. 6 shows a knitting structure chart used in Example 3. FIG. 7 shows a knitting structure chart used in Example 4. FIG. 8 shows a knitting structure chart used in Example 5. FIG. 9 shows a knitting structure chart used in the sixth embodiment. FIG. 10 shows a knitting structure chart used in Example 7. FIG. 11 shows a knitting structure chart used in Example 8. FIG. 12 shows a knitting structure chart used in Comparative Example 3. FIG. 13 shows a knitting structure chart used in Comparative Example 5.

  Conventionally, knitted fabrics are characterized by high air permeability and high flexibility, and circular knitted fabrics are particularly characterized by high lateral stretchability. The present inventor made this circular knitted fabric in a horizontal border pattern, and used the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction of the shirt, so that it was excellent business when the horizontal border was used for the vertical stripe of the shirt. I thought that it could be a shirt, and have been studying the specific method. As a result, the present inventor satisfies the silhouette, shape retention and wearing comfort of a business shirt by adopting a special knitting structure in which the stretch rate in the horizontal direction and the vertical direction of the knitted fabric can be adjusted to a specific range. We found a knitted fabric suitable for business shirts.

  In business shirt knitted fabrics, following the elasticity of the skin and the bending and stretching of the joints when the body is moved greatly affects the wearing comfort. Business shirts are particularly comfortable in the horizontal direction, making it easier to follow body movements and comfort. On the other hand, it is important for the warp direction of business shirts to have a low degree of elongation in order to obtain shape retention, resilience, and firmness similar to those of fabrics. The knitted fabric of the present invention is assumed to be used so that the warp direction (course direction) of the knitted fabric is the horizontal direction of the business shirt. It is preferable that the warp direction has a high elongation not found in the woven fabric.

  In the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is necessary that the elongation rate (EMT) in the horizontal direction is 10 to 25%, preferably 11 to 20%, more preferably 12 to 19%. If the elongation rate in the horizontal direction (EMT) exceeds the above range, the stretch of the fabric and the feeling of firmness are reduced and the shape retention of the product is lowered. If the elongation ratio (EMT) in the horizontal direction is less than the above range, it is difficult to obtain an appropriate degree of elongation necessary for the feeling of wearing a business shirt, and it is difficult to achieve the object of the present invention. Moreover, when the expansion ratio (EMT) in the horizontal direction exceeds the above range, the business shirt tends to be too soft.

  In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the warp direction elongation (EMT) needs to be 15 to 40%, preferably 16 to 28%, more preferably 17 to 25%. When the elongation ratio (EMT) in the vertical direction (the horizontal direction of the shirt) is within this range, the flexibility of the knitted fabric is utilized in the shirt, and wearing comfort is obtained. When the elongation rate (EMT) in the vertical direction is less than the above range, comfort during wearing is lost. Moreover, when the rate of elongation (EMT) in the vertical direction exceeds the above range, recovery after stretching tends to deteriorate.

  Furthermore, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, the average value of the elongation ratio (EMT) in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is preferably 12.5 to 25%, and more preferably 13 to 22 as a circular knitting. %, More preferably 14 to 20%. When the average value of the elongation rate (EMT) exceeds the above range, the knitted fabric is stretched and contracted to have a soft texture such as underwear, and the shape retaining property tends to be lowered.

  In the present invention, in order to realize the above-described elongation ratio in the vertical or horizontal direction, the main feature of the knitted fabric is that it is a welt tentacle in which knit loops and welts are alternately continued. The welt tengu is a structure in which knits and welts are connected one by one or two in both the horizontal and vertical directions. By alternately configuring the knit and the welt, it is possible to suppress the stretchability and to exhibit appropriate elasticity and stiffness in the business shirt. More preferably, a structure in which knit welts are alternately knitted for each loop is employed. In the present invention, it is necessary for this welt tentacle structure to use an area of 50% or more with respect to the entire knitted fabric, preferably 50 to 100%. More preferably, it is 55-100%, More preferably, it is 60% -100%. As long as this condition is satisfied, the knitted fabric of the present invention may use a knitted structure other than the welt tengu. As a knitting structure other than the welt tengu, tengu, kanoko and the like are used. The portion that does not require the use of the welt tengu tissue (that is, the portion that is not the main tissue described above) is a portion that is used as a structure such as a stripe or lattice pattern. In such a part, a chambray pattern, dobby pattern (dovista pattern) structure, jaguar pattern by cross knitting to produce a different color dyeing effect, and code pattern mixed with welt tack knitting Organizations can be employed. For reference, Fig. 1 shows a knitting organization chart of a welt tengu, Fig. 2 shows a knitting organization diagram with a fine border pattern of tengu knitting in the welt tengu of the ground organization, and Fig. 3 A knitting organization chart with a knitting border pattern is shown.

  As the yarn used for the welt tentacle structure of the knitted fabric of the present invention, any of a spun yarn, a filament yarn, and a composite yarn thereof having a fineness of 50 to 180 dtex can be used. In particular, in the case of spun yarn, those having a fine count of 33/1 or more (179 dtex or less) and in the case of filament yarn having a fineness of 50 to 180 dtex are suitable. When the fiber fineness of the yarn to be used is thinner than the above range, the knitted fabric becomes more transparent, and the firmness and stiffness are weakened. When it is thicker than the above range, it becomes a thick knitted fabric. Can be undesirable.

  The yarn used in the knitted fabric of the present invention is, for example, a polyamide fiber represented by nylon 6, nylon 66, a polyester fiber such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or a biodegradable material such as polylactic acid fiber. Can be used. Particularly preferred are polyester fibers. These yarns are preferably used in an amount of 60% or more, more preferably 80% or more.

  In the case of using a yarn constituting the outline of a pattern such as a horizontal border pattern, it is preferable to use a filament. This is because the outline is clear when a filament is used. Moreover, it is preferable that the filament used for the knitted fabric of this invention contains 0.6 to 5.0 weight% of titanium oxide fine particles. In particular, when such a filament is used in either the border pattern part or the ground part, the contrast of the sense of transparency can be achieved, and the effect is that it seems that it is difficult to see through. Of course, all the yarns constituting the knitted fabric may contain titanium oxide fine particles in the same manner. The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the yarn of the knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited, and various irregular cross-sections represented by a round shape, a triangular shape, an eight-leaf shape, a flat shape, a Y shape, and the like. Yarn can be used.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention can sufficiently increase the course density because the knit and the welt are alternately arranged in the wale direction by adopting a welt tentacle structure as a main structure. By realizing a high course density, it is possible to give moderate elasticity and stiffness while being a knitted fabric combined with the knitted structure of Welt Tengu. The knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a course density of 40 to 100 pieces / 2.54 cm. More preferably, it is 45-90 pieces / 2.54 cm, More preferably, it is 50-80 pieces / 2.54 cm. When the course density is lower than the above range, the flexibility becomes too high and it becomes difficult to obtain firmness and stiffness, and when it is higher than the above range, the dough becomes hard and the air permeability becomes low and the feeling of stuffiness increases. Since the knitted fabric of the present invention uses a high gauge knitting machine, the wale density is also high. The preferred wale density is preferably 40 to 75 pieces / 2.54 cm. More preferably, it is 45-65 pieces / 2.54 cm, More preferably, it is 50-60 pieces / 2.54 cm. If the wale density is lower than the above range, the flexibility will be too high and it will be difficult to obtain firmness and stiffness, and if it is higher than the above range, the fabric used will be too thin and the vertical density will be too low. It becomes smaller and the stretch in the vertical direction becomes smaller, and the feeling of wearing may worsen.

The business shirt has preferably used a thin fabric, and the knitted fabric of the present invention is required to be light and thin in order to be used as a business shirt. Therefore, a single circular knitted fabric is used in the present invention. The basis weight of the single circular knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 80 to 180 g / m ² , more preferably 90 to 165 g / m ² , and still more preferably 90 to 150 g / m ² . If the basis weight exceeds the above range, the thickness dimension becomes too large and the thickness becomes too thick, and it may not be possible to achieve the thinness and lightness that are requirements for business shirts. Further, if the basis weight is less than the above range, the firmness and stiffness are weakened, and an appropriate silhouette as a business shirt may not be produced. The thickness of the knitted fabric in the present invention is preferably 0.3 to 0.6 mm. More preferably, it is 0.35-0.55 mm. In a knitted fabric thinner than the above range, the sheer feeling tends to be too strong. Exceeding the above range makes it too fleshy to make the shirt look and feel easy to wear, making it difficult to use for business shirts.

  In the knitted fabric of the present invention, a so-called high gauge single knit knitting machine in which the density (gauge) of the knitting needles on the needle bed of the knitting machine is 28 or more per inch (2.54 cm) and the needle bed is in one row. . A knitted fabric knitted with a high-gauge knitting machine can enhance the firmness and stiffness. A preferable knitting machine gauge is 28-46 pieces / 2.54 cm. When the knitting machine gauge exceeds 46 gauge, it is necessary to use a thinner thread, and a sense of sheer is likely to appear. Even if the gauge is less than 28 gauge, sheer feeling is likely to appear and the texture tends to be too soft.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention may be subjected to specialized processing such as predetermined water absorption processing or stretch processing. When a knitted fabric subjected to such special processing is used, a business shirt with further improved air permeability and mobility can be obtained. Further, by performing resin processing such as acrylic resin in the finishing process, it is possible to increase the firmness and stiffness.

The mechanical properties of the knitted fabric of the present invention are in accordance with KES (Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics). The stretch rate (EMT) of the knitted fabric of the present invention is measured by KES-FB1. The measurement of the elongation rate (EMT) is performed by holding a 20 cm × 20 cm sample on a chuck with an interval of 5 cm and pulling up to a maximum load of 250 gf / cm at a strain rate of 4.00 × 10 ⁻³ / sec.

The knitted fabric of the present invention can achieve a breathability of 60 cc / cm ² · sec or more while suppressing the sense of sheer. This value is a high value considering that the air permeability of a broad fabric generally used in conventional business shirts is about 20 cc / cm ² · sec.

  Since the knitted fabric of the present invention is not transparent, it can be suitably used for a business shirt. Although the knitted fabric of the present invention is a circular knitted fabric, the degree of see-through prevention is 74 or more. Furthermore, by alternately arranging the ground and the border pattern with different permeability, there is an effect that it is more difficult to see through.

  The business shirt used for the knitted fabric of the present invention is a shirt with a collar that can be used in a business scene. For example, a cutter shirt, a dress shirt, a dress blouse, a button-down shirt, a dungaree shirt, etc. are mentioned. There is no need to have a placket, but a specification with a placket is more formal and easier to use in business situations. Moreover, it is not limited only to the business scene use.

  The business shirt generally uses a vertical border pattern structure, but since the present invention uses a single circular knitted fabric, it is difficult to express a vertical border pattern. Therefore, when creating a business shirt using the knitted fabric of the present invention, after making it as a knitted fabric of a horizontal border, the horizontal border is formed using the horizontal direction of the shirt. Since the welt tengu has reduced elasticity in the horizontal direction in particular, if the vertical is replaced, it is possible to obtain shape stability by suppressing the elongation in the vertical direction, which is particularly important for business shirts.

  EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, each performance evaluation in an Example was performed with the following method.

(Knitted fabric density)
JIS-L1096 8.6.2 Based on the density of the knitted fabric, the course density (pieces / 2.54 cm) and the wale density (pieces / 2.54 cm) of the knitted fabric were measured.

(Weight of knitted fabric)
The basis weight of the knitted fabric was measured based on the mass per unit area in the standard state of JIS-L1096 8.3.2A method.

(Thickness of knitted fabric)
The thickness of the knitted fabric was measured based on the thickness of the JIS-L1096 8.4A method.

(Air permeability)
The air permeability of the knitted fabric was measured in accordance with the air permeability (Fragile type method A method) defined in JIS-L-1096 8.26.1.

(Mechanical properties)
The mechanical properties of the knitted fabric were in accordance with KES (Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics). The stretch rate (EMT) of the knitted fabric was measured with KES-FB1. The elongation rate (EMT) was measured by holding a 20 cm × 20 cm sample on a chuck with a spacing of 5 cm and pulling it to a maximum load of 250 gf / cm at a strain rate of 4.00 × 10 ⁻³ / sec. The bending characteristics were determined by using a KES-FB2 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd. with a 1 cm width of a predetermined region of each sample as a sample and fixing it between chucks with a spacing of 1 cm, bending to the maximum curvature +2.5 cm ⁻¹ , , Measured by bending back to the maximum curvature of -2.5 cm ^{-1 and} then back. The bending stiffness (B) [ N · cm ² / cm] was calculated from the inclination when the inclination of the bending moment with respect to the curvature became substantially constant after bending to the front side. Further, the bending recovery property (2HB) [ N · cm / cm] was obtained from the hysteresis width.

(Sensory evaluation of elasticity and stiffness)
As a texture evaluation of the elasticity when touching the fabric with a hand, the cotton broad was evaluated as 5 levels with a maximum rank of 5 and a minimum rank of 1. Judgment was made by one skilled in the hand.

(Sense of sheer)
Evaluation was performed using a Boken standard BQE A038 anti-squeeze test. A white plate is placed on the skin side of the test piece, and the reflectance (RS-white) of visible light (380 nm to 780 nm) on the outer surface is measured. Similarly, the black plates are overlapped, the reflectance (Rs-black) is measured, and the see-through prevention degree is calculated. If the degree of sheer prevention is 74 or more, it can be used as a dress shirt without worrying about the sheer feeling. Degree of see-through = Rs-black / Rs-white × 100

(W & W property of knitted fabric)
The shape stability (W & W property) of the dress shirt was evaluated according to the quality performance measures council law for apparel products. The determination was performed using a determination standard three-dimensional replica defined in AATCC 124-1984. Judgment was displayed from the fifth grade (good) to the first grade (bad).

(Product shape retention)
Using the pleated property test method for knitted fabrics of JIS-L1060: 2012, the three-dimensional effect of the shape of the pleat after washing was used as a substitute evaluation for shape retention. The grade was determined according to the criteria for the pleated shape before washing and the pleated shape after repeating the washing operation and the drying operation 5 times. As a pleat determination standard, a five-step determination standard three-dimensional replica defined in AATCC Test Method 88C was used. Judgment was displayed from the fifth grade (good) to the first grade (bad).

(Ease of movement of the upper body when wearing a dress shirt)
After the fabric is sewn into a dress shirt, a 30-year-old man with a middle fillet wears his hands wide, and his hands / shoulders are rotated horizontally around the spine. Using the resistance of the fabric) as a sensory value, three-stage evaluation was performed in the order of easy movement: ○>Δ> ×: hard to move.

Example 1
Using a 30-inch, 36-gauge single circular knitting machine (VXC-3FA, manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) Knitted. At that time, as a yarn that becomes the ground portion in the yarn feeders F20 to 26, F28, 29, and F31 to 37, a polyethylene terephthalate of 84 dtex, 48 filament (f), which is a round cross-sectional yarn in which 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles are kneaded. A false twisted yarn was used. Further, a false twisted yarn of 84 dtex 36 filament, which is a semi-dull round cross section yarn containing 0.3% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles serving as a border portion, is used in the yarn feeders F1 to F18. Similarly, F19, 27, 30 and F38 are cationic dyes. An 84 dtex 36 filament false twisted yarn, which is a dyeable round section yarn, was used.

The completed raw machine was preset at 160 ° C. for 2 minutes using a pinoter made of Hirano Tech Seed, and then scouring, dyeing and finishing were performed according to the following prescription.
Scouring prescription: Satita processing Nonisol N 1g / l, Nisaka Chemical Neocrystal CG1000 0.5g / l, soda ash 0.5g / l, bath ratio 1:15 95 ° C. × 30 minutes.
Dyeing prescription: Liquid dyeing machine NS type manufactured by Nisaka Seisakusho, bath ratio 1:15 Acetic acid 0.2g / l pH = 4 at 130 ° C x 45min, Meisei Chemical Disper N 700 0.5g / l, Nikka Chemical Neo Crystal GC1000 0.5 g / l, Takamatsu Oil SR1800 1.5% owf, dispersive cationic dye Kayacryl Light Blue 4GSL-ED 1.0% omf staining, centrifugal dehydration and drying (120 ° C. × 3 minutes) Finishing agent was applied under conditions. The finish pick-up was 70%.
Sunstat ES-11 (Antistatic agent manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries) 1% ows (on the weight of solution)
Thereafter, the final set was performed under the conditions of a pin tenter 160 ° C. × 2 minutes, and the amount of properties was adjusted to obtain a final fabric. At that time, the tenter width was set so as to remove the wrinkles of the knitted fabric, and care was taken so as not to pull the finished knitted fabric vertically and horizontally. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Example 2)
Using a knitting machine similar to that in Example 1, a knitting machine that forms a horizontal border knitted fabric of 72% welt tensu consisting of 30 yarns of complete structures F1 to F30 shown in FIG. 5 was knitted. At that time, 84 dtex, 48 filament (f) polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, which is a round cross-section yarn in which 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles are kneaded, is used as the ground portion in the yarn feeders F21-24, F27-30. It was. In addition, 84 dtex 36 filament false twisted yarn, which is a bright round cross-section yarn containing 0.03% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles serving as a border portion at the yarn feeders F1 to F20, is formed into a canopy texture, and similarly to F25 and 26, a cationic dye A false twisted yarn of 84 dtex 36 filament, which is a dyeable round cross-section yarn, was used to form a welt tentacle structure. The Welt Tengu tissue was included in 67% of the ground and 5% in the border, for a total of 72%.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Example 3)
Using a knitting machine similar to that in Example 1, a knitting machine that forms a horizontal border knitted fabric of 66% welt tensu consisting of 29 yarns of complete structures F1 to F29 shown in FIG. 6 was knitted. At that time, a 84 dtex, 36 filament (f) polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, which is a round cross-section yarn in which 0.03 wt% of titanium oxide fine particles were kneaded, was used as the ground yarn in the yarn feeders F1-20. In addition, an 84 dtex 48 filament false twisted yarn, which is a full dull round cross-section yarn containing 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles serving as a border portion, is used in the yarn feeders F21 to 24 and F26 to 29 to form a canal structure, and F25 is a cation. A false-twisted yarn of 84 dtex 36 filament, which is a dye-dyeable round cross-section yarn, was used to form a tense structure.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

Example 4
Using a knitting machine similar to that of Example 1, a knitting machine that forms a horizontal border knitted fabric of 56% welt tensu consisting of 29 yarns of complete structures F1 to F29 shown in FIG. 7 was knitted. At that time, as the yarn that becomes the ground portion in the yarn feeders F13 to F20 and F22 to 29, a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn of 84 dtex, 48 filament (f), which is a round cross-sectional yarn kneaded with 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles, is used. It was. In addition, 84 dtex 36 filament false twisted yarn, which is a bright round cross-section yarn containing 0.03% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles serving as a border portion at the yarn feeders F1 to F12, is formed into a canal structure, and F21 is dyeable with a cationic dye. A false twisted yarn of 84 dtex 36 filament, which is a round cross-section yarn, was used to obtain a tense structure.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Example 5)
Using a 30-inch, 46-gauge single circular knitting machine (3SD, manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho), we knitting a raw machine that forms a 98% welt ten-fold weft border knitted fabric consisting of 45 yarns of the complete structure F1 to F45 shown in FIG. did. At that time, a 84 dtex, 48 filament (f) polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, which is a round cross-section yarn in which 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles were kneaded, was used as a base portion of the yarn feeders F1 to F44. Further, a false twisted yarn of 56 dtex 36 filament, which is a cationic dye-dyeable round cross-section yarn serving as a border portion, was used for the yarn feeder F45 to form a tense structure.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Example 6)
Using a knitting machine similar to that of Example 1, a knitting machine that becomes a horizontal border knitted fabric of 97% welt tentacles consisting of 45 yarns of complete structures F1 to F45 shown in FIG. 9 was knitted. At that time, 84 dtex, 48 filament (f) of polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn and titanium oxide fine particles, which are round cross-section yarns in which 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles are kneaded, are used as yarns to be ground in the yarn feeders F1 to F44. A 167 dtex 48 filament false twisted yarn, which is a semi-dull round cross-section yarn containing 3 wt%, was alternately knitted with a welt tenshi structure, and the F45 had a 84 dtex 36 filament false twist yarn, a cationic dye-dyeable round cross-sectional yarn. Used and organized in a tengu tissue.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Example 7)
Using a knitting machine similar to that of Example 1, a knitting machine was knitted to become a horizontal border knitted fabric of 75% welt tensu consisting of yarns of complete structures F1 to F30 shown in FIG. At that time, 84 dtex, 48 filament (f), which is a round cross-section yarn in which 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles are kneaded as yarns to be ground in the yarn feeders F2 to 13, F15 to 20, F22, 23, and 25 to 30. ) Using a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn. Further, cotton yarns serving as border portions were knitted with a tengu structure at the yarn feeders F1, 14, 21, 24.

  The finished knitting machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the cotton yarn was subjected to a peroxide exposure treatment to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Example 8)
Using a knitting machine similar to that of Example 1, a knitting machine that forms a weft border 80% weft border knitted fabric consisting of yarns of complete structures F1 to F30 shown in FIG. 11 was knitted. At that time, a round cross section in which 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles were kneaded as yarns to be ground in the yarn feeders F1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 21 to 21, and 26 to 29. The yarn is 84 dtex, 48 filament (f) polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, and cotton yarn 50/1 is arranged in the yarn feeders F2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 23, and 24 with a welt tentacle. Organized. In addition, using a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn of 110 dtex, 96 filament (f), which is a round cross-sectional yarn in which 1.5% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles serving as a border portion is kneaded in the yarn feeders F17, 22, 25, 30 Organized.

  The finished knitting machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the cotton yarn was subjected to a peroxide exposure treatment to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using a knitting machine similar to that in Example 1, a knitting machine that becomes a knitted fabric of 100% Tendon was knitted. The yarn used was a yarn obtained by aligning 33 dtex, 12 filament (f) polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, which is a circular cross-section yarn containing 0.3% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Comparative Example 2)
Using the same knitting machine as in Example 1, a knitting machine to be a back knitted fabric was knitted. The used yarn was an S dating and Z false twisted yarn of 84 dtex, 72 filament (f) polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn, which is a round cross-section yarn kneaded with 2.0% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Comparative Example 3)
Using a 30-inch, 36-gauge double circular knitting machine (4AL, manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.), a raw machine that becomes a smooth border knitted fabric composed of 10 yarns of complete structures F1 to F10 shown in FIG. At that time, a 56 dtex, 72 filament (f) polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, which is a round cross-sectional yarn in which 0.3% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles were kneaded, was used as the yarn that becomes the ground portion in the yarn feeders F1 to F6. Further, a 56 dtex 48 filament false twist yarn, which is a circular cross-sectional yarn dyeable with a cationic dye, containing 0.3% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles serving as a border portion at the yarn feeders F7 to F10 was used.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

(Comparative Example 4)
Australian cotton (micronaire 4.0 to 4.6, average fiber length: 1.12 to 1.21 inches, strength: 30 to 34 g / tex) and polyester short fiber (fineness 1.5 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) Are blended at a ratio of 50% by weight, and through a general spinning pre-spinning process (mixed cotton-cotton-refining-roving), a 120 gelen / 15 yd roving is created. -240 (link corner) produced a spun yarn with a twist coefficient k = 3.7 and a total draft of 38.4 and a brake draft of 1.40 (English cotton count). Using this spun yarn for warp and weft, weaving a plain fabric with warp density of 127 / 2.54cm, weft density of 70 / 2.54cm, and by normal methods, sintering, desizing, continuous scouring and bleaching, It was mercerized, and after continuous scouring dyed with disperse dye and reactive dye, it was dyed sax and finished with a softener added by a tenter. The finishing density was 129 warps / 2.54 cm and 72 wefts / 2.54 cm. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration and evaluation results of the finished finished fabric.

(Comparative Example 5)
Using a 30-inch, 32-gauge single circular knitting machine (3FA manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho), the portion of the sinker loop surface consisting of 90 yarns of complete structure F1 to F2 shown in FIG. A knitting machine was knitted to become a plating tengu knitted fabric having a bridging shape of the first stitch. A semi-dull round section containing a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn of 110 dtex, 48 filament (f), which is a round cross section yarn in which 0.3% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles are kneaded in the front yarn, and 0.3% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles in the back yarn. An 84 dtex 36 filament false twisted yarn was knitted. In this knitting structure, the front yarns are supplied yarns F1, F3, F5, and the back yarns are supplied yarns F2, F4, F6. As a result, the front stitch partially becomes a double stitch, and a bridging portion is formed in the welt portion of the back yarn.

  The finished green machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a final knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the detailed configuration of the finished knitted fabric and the evaluation results.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric for a business shirt that is hard to see through and has excellent breathability while securing a texture such as elasticity and stiffness that is comparable to a business shirt made of a normal woven fabric, A significant contribution in the industry.

Claims (4)

It consists of a single circular knitted fabric with a basis weight of 80 to 180 g / m ² , a course density of 40 to 100 pieces / 2.54 cm, the circular knitted fabric has a horizontal border pattern, and a yarn with a fineness of 50 to 180 dtex. The welt tengu tissue used constitutes 50% or more of the entire area, and the longitudinal elongation rate (EMT) is 15 to 40%, and the lateral elongation rate (EMT) is 10 to 25%. Knitted fabric for business shirts.   The knitted fabric for a business shirt according to claim 1, wherein the yarn constituting the horizontal border pattern comprises a filament containing 0.6 to 5.0% by weight of titanium oxide fine particles.   The knitted fabric for business shirts according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the tissue forming the horizontal border pattern is a tengu tissue or a canopy tissue.   A business shirt using the horizontal border pattern of the knitted fabric for a business shirt according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as a vertical stripe pattern.

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