JP2001303415A - Tubular knit fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a knit fabric excellent in shape retaining properties and comfortableness to wear. SOLUTION: This tubular knit fabric is characterized in that the fabric is knitted in the tubular form by feeding elastic yarns to each of needle beds using a double raschel knitting machine and has two or more kinds of knitted pattern parts different in stretching force and >=1.1 times ratio of the respective stretching forces for the two or more kinds of knit fabric pattern parts.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a tubular knitted fabric using a double Russell warp knitting machine.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Elastic warp knitted fabrics, in which non-elastic yarns are combined with elastic yarns, are often used in innerwear such as foundations and clothing such as sports clothing. Products with body-complementary properties are manufactured. As a manufacturing method thereof, usually, an elastic warp knitted fabric is knitted using the entire width of a tricot knitting machine and a Russell warp knitting machine, a plurality of target elastic warp knitted fabric pieces are cut, and these are sewn. The method is general. At this time, the stitched portion of the inner product is subjected to various methods such as an overlock sewing machine or a folded stitch, so that the knitted fabric is processed to prevent fraying.

[0003] However, the stitched portion of such a knitted fabric has a width of at least several millimeters, and it may be loose when worn, and in some cases, may cause skin damage due to compression. Also, only the elastic yarn in the knitted fabric comes out of the seam,
A defect called "slip-in" that easily enters the inside of the knitted fabric is apt to occur, and there has been considerable ingenuity in the method of cleaning the stitched portion.

Further, in a foundation such as a girdle, generally, the entire surface of the knitted fabric does not have the same expansion and contraction force, but it is generally practiced to increase the expansion and contraction force of a portion to be pressed, such as the abdomen, so as to have a moldability. Also in this case, since two or more types of knitted fabrics having different elasticity are combined, the looseness of the stitched portion is further increased. Also, the difference between the part with increased elasticity and the part with no elasticity is important for wearing comfort, but this has not been widely verified, and two or more types of knitted fabrics having different stretching forces are appropriately combined. In many cases, wearing for a long period of time often causes unpleasant inner wear.

[0005] As described above, at present, there is elasticity in the vertical and horizontal directions, the number of sewn portions is small, the fit and the complementary performance of the product are satisfied, and the product is worn for a long time. At present, there is no knitted fabric that is comfortable.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems, and in particular, to provide a knitted fabric which is improved in fitting to a human body, complementary, and wearing comfort, and which is optimal even when wearing lightly. With the goal.

[0007]

The present inventors have studied the structure of the knitted fabric and the yarns to be used. As a result, using a specific warp knitting machine, a specific yarn and a knitted fabric pattern having different elasticity are simultaneously used. Finding that the purpose of the present invention is achieved by knitting,
The present invention has been made. That is, the present invention is a tubular knitted fabric knitted in a tubular shape by supplying an elastic yarn to each needle bed using a double Russell warp knitting machine. Further, the present invention has two or more kinds of knitted fabric pattern portions having different stretching powers.
The tubular knitted fabric is characterized in that the difference in elasticity between the knitted fabric patterns of more than one kind is 1.1 times or more.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail. The elastic yarn used in the present invention is a polyurethane-based, polyester-based, polyetherester-based or the like elastic yarn, and ordinary polyurethane-based elastic yarn, for example, a dry-spun or melt-spun yarn can be used. The spinning method is not particularly limited. The dtex of the fiber used is preferably from 15 to 110, particularly preferably from 15 to 80. The elongation at break is preferably from 400% to 1000%, and it is particularly preferable that the material has excellent elasticity and does not impair the elasticity at a normal processing temperature of about 180 ° C. in the presetting step at the time of dyeing.

In the present invention, an elastic yarn is supplied to each needle bed of a double Russell warp knitting machine to form a knitted fabric. The double Russell warp knitting machine used here is preferably a model that can be knitted by a computer-controlled warp knitting machine in addition to a normal warp knitting machine. The elastic yarn may be an elastic yarn alone, a so-called bare yarn, or a coated elastic yarn. As coated elastic yarn,
As the non-elastic yarn, a known fiber type or fiber type can be used.

Various fibers such as natural fibers such as wool and silk, cellulosic fibers such as cupra and rayon, and synthetic fibers such as acetate, polyester, and nylon, in short fibers and long fibers, round and irregular cross-sections, Yarns, undrawn yarns (including POY), high-speed spun yarns (for example, spin take-up and spin draw take-up), and crimped yarns such as thick and thin yarns, design yarns, and false twist yarns can be used. A composite yarn combining one or more types and forms of fibers (using known composite means such as blending, entanglement, intertwisting, composite false twisting, and fluid jet processing) may be used, and may be selected as desired.

As the covering yarn of the elastic yarn with the mating yarn, a known yarn can be used. For example, a so-called covering yarn in which a mating yarn of a long fiber such as nylon or polyester is wound around an elongated elastic yarn. At this time, there are a single covering yarn in which the mating yarn is wound around the elastic yarn in a single layer, and a double covering yarn in which the mating yarn is wound twice.

[0012] In the method using short fibers of cotton yarn or acrylic yarn, a spun yarn is spun by a spinning machine, and the elastic yarn is supplied to a front roller of the spinning machine while being stretched, twisted and wound. Core spun yarn can also be used. Furthermore, a twisted yarn in which the elongated elastic yarn and the mating yarn are twisted by a twisting machine, a method of manufacturing a coated elastic yarn by air entanglement of the mating yarn and the elongated elastic yarn, or false twisting can be used. is there.

The tubular knitted fabric of the present invention can be knitted by a double Russell warp knitting machine having two rows of needle beds, and 16 to 30 knits.
The use of a gauge Russell warp knitting machine achieves the objectives of the present invention. The structure of the warp knitting machine according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and an arbitrary pattern can be formed with an arbitrary structure. A knitted fabric of high quality can be obtained by knitting a ground structure with ordinary processed yarns and forming an elastic yarn and a non-elastic yarn or a coated elastic yarn on the ground structure. Further, inelastic yarns other than the elastic yarns may be shared, including the ground structure.

In this case, the non-elastic yarn may be the same or completely different from the yarn selected as the mating yarn of the coated elastic yarn. Composite yarns combined by air entanglement or the like can be used, and one or more yarns may be mixed and knitted according to the purpose. Using these yarns, a knitting width of a warp knitting machine may be set according to the size of a product to be manufactured, and knitting may be performed.

[0015] In the method of knitting a tubular knitted fabric according to the present invention, for example, when manufacturing a girdle, when knitting is started from the waist portion of the abdomen of the girdle, the same needle is used at the same position in the front needle bed and the rear needle bed. Based on the set size of the girdle, the number of needles of the front needle bed and the rear needle bed is set based on the number, the thread is hooked, and the front needle bed and the rear needle bed are separately knitted. Here, the portion corresponding to the side of the girdle, i.e., only the left and right ends of the device needle are supplied with the knitting yarn to the front and rear needle beds, so that the front and rear knitted fabrics are connected at the left and right ends to form a tubular knitted fabric. Organize. After proceeding to knitting to the crotch in this way, the transition to knitting from the crotch to the leg is performed. In this case, the front and rear knitted fabric connecting portions at the abdomen are only the left and right ends of the tackle, but the transition to the leg is performed. In doing so, two knitted fabric connecting and connecting portions are set around the center of the device in addition to the left and right ends of the device. Thus, two tubular knitted fabrics connected to one abdominal tubular knitted fabric can be knitted, and these two tubular knitted fabrics function as legs in a product.

In this case, in an actual product, a crotch portion is provided on the crotch portion so as to make it easy to wear, and sewing is performed so that the two leg portions are not connected. In order to make the product easy to wear as described above, a connecting portion is provided at the front and rear of the crotch portion so as to form a tubular knitted fabric having a width of about 5 to 50 mm, and left (or right) from the end.
A product is manufactured by knitting a leg tubular knitted fabric, a crotch (crotch portion) tubular knitted fabric, a right (or left) leg tubular knitted fabric and three tubular knitted fabrics in a continuous manner. As a result, a knitted fabric which is excellent in a feeling of wearing, has no sewing portion in the portion, does not overlap the fabric, and has almost no unevenness is obtained.

Further, after the left and right legs and crotch are knitted, the front and rear knitted fabric connecting portions are brought to both ends of the tack width again and knitted, whereby the abdomen is knitted while being connected to the left and right legs and crotch. You can, and if you repeat this, it will be a long piece of cloth with several girdles connected. The tubular knitted fabric of the present invention has two or more kinds of knitted fabric patterns having different stretching forces, and the knitted fabric pattern here means a plain pattern, a striped pattern, a jacquard pattern, and various other forms, It is the knitted fabric part of the pattern. further,
If the stripe pattern and the jacquard pattern have patterns that are clearly different from the other patterns, each is treated as one pattern.

In the tubular knitted fabric of the present invention, as a result of diligent studies on the garment having both the wearing comfort and the complimentability, which are the objects of the present invention, the product contains two or more knitted fabric patterns having different stretching forces. If the stretch force of these two or more kinds of knitted fabric pattern parts is differentiated, and the knitted fabrics with different stretch forces are arranged in appropriate portions,
The purpose has been found to be achieved. That is, the ratio of the respective elongation forces is 1.1 times or more, preferably 1.3 times or more, more preferably 2 times or more in the knitted fabric weft direction. Here, the ratio of the extension force in the weft direction expressed by a value obtained by dividing the knitted fabric pattern portion having a high elongation force by the knitted fabric portion having a low elongation force is 1.1 times or more. In this case, if the knitted fabric is arranged in the abdomen so as to have a high elongation, a comfortable wearing feeling without sewage of the sewn portion and good moldability can be obtained. When the ratio of the elongation force is less than 1.1 times, the product does not have satisfactory molding performance when it is made into a product.

Although there is no particular limitation on how to set the ratio of the stretching force, for example, a method of making the knitting structure dense in a high stretching force portion and a method of roughening the knitting structure in a low stretching force portion, or a method of supplying an elastic yarn. It is possible to use a method in which the amount is changed or the elongation force of the coated elastic yarn is different from the elongation force. The elongation force as used herein means that the knitted fabric has a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 5 cm (knitted fabric holding interval), and has a tensile speed of 300 mm / min.
% Means the stress when stretched.

If the knitted fabric pattern area is small and it is difficult to measure the normal elongation force, two or more types of knitted fabrics to be measured are separately prepared, sampled with the same area, and the elongation force is measured. Is also good. The tubular knitted fabric of the present invention has two or more kinds of knitted fabric pattern portions having a difference in elongation force in the weft direction of the knitted fabric of 1.1 times or more. As an example of a product application method, in the case of a girdle, the lower abdomen has a solid pattern structure that has the highest elongation force so that a knitted fabric part with a high elongation force is used, and the leg part is not so important for complementarity Since it is a part, a method of forming a jacquard knitted fabric pattern part having a low elongation force results in a product having excellent moldability and wearing comfort.

The method for dyeing the tubular knitted fabric of the present invention can be any method. It is possible to separate products one by one and dye them after sewing, so-called product dyeing.
It is also possible to perform the dyeing process while the knitted fabric is continuous. The tubular knitted fabric of the present invention can be used for foundations such as girdle, brassiere and body suit, inners such as lingerie, and materials such as supporters.

[0022]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described based on embodiments. [Example 1] 24 gauge equipped with 6 reeds, 5 mm between pots
Using a double Russell machine, knitting of a girdle whose sewing was labor-saving was performed, and as a covering elastic yarn, a Leica yarn (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd., registered trademark, polyurethane elastic fiber) 22 dtex and a nylon fiber 44 dtex / 12 filament were used. Using, while expanding the Leica thread 2.5 times,
Single covering was performed under the conditions of a covering number of 800 T / m to produce a covering yarn. The following yarns including this covering yarn were threaded through each reed.

Here, L1 to L6 are reed numbers. The missing part of the number indicates that the thread is not threaded. L2 nylon yarn 55dtex / 36 filament L3 covering yarn L4 covering yarn L5 nylon yarn 55dtex / 36 filament Also, the basic knitting structure is set as follows, and the number of needles is 450
The number of books and knitting courses is 2800, and FIG.
The knitting structure was changed along the shape as shown in Fig. 1 and knitting was performed from the part corresponding to the abdomen of the girdle. In FIG. 1, the knitted fabric part having a high elongation force knits a double denby structure with a nylon yarn and a covering yarn, and the knitted fabric part with a low elongation force has a knitted fabric part with a nylon yarn and a covering yarn. Organized as a patterned knit. Also, as shown in FIG. 1, the knitted fabric was connected to the left and right needle beds so as to form the left and right leg tubular knitted fabric and the crotch tubular knitted fabric at the crotch. FIG. 1 shows a state in which three girdle fabrics are continuously knitted.

L2 Ground Organization 10/01 L3 Jacquard 10/01 and 10/12, 10/2
Combination of 3 L4 Jacquard 10/01 and 10/12, 10/2
Combination of 3 L5 Ground texture 10/01 The runner length was set as follows.

L2 1200mm L3 1400mm L4 1400mm L5 1200mm The knitted fabric thus knitted is refined, dyed, and finished in a long state with many girdles connected. The waist, leg hem and crotch were processed to obtain a product.

The elongation and wearing feeling of this product were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1. [Examples 2 and 3] A girdle was manufactured under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the Leica yarn used as the covering yarn was changed to 44 dtex (Example 2). Further, in Example 1, the runner length of L3 and L4 was shortened by 10%, and knitting was performed to manufacture a girdle (Example 3).

The products obtained in Examples 2 and 3 were evaluated for elongation and wearing feeling, and the results are shown in Table 1. [Comparative Example 1] In Example 1, the runner length of L3 and L4 was increased by 10%, and knitting was performed to produce a girdle. The elongation power and wearing feeling of this product were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0028]

[Table 1]

[Example 4] In knitting a body suit excellent in water absorbency using an 18 gauge double Russell warp knitting machine, a Leica thread 22 dtex was used as a covering elastic yarn.
Using a nylon filament and 78 dtex / 34 filament, the Leica yarn is stretched 2.5 times and aligned and entangled, and then twisted in the twisting direction Z at a set twist number of 600 T / m to cover the elasticity. Yarn was manufactured.

The following yarns containing this coated elastic yarn were threaded through each reed. L1 Cotton thread 120S / 2 L2 Nylon thread 78dtex / 34 filament L3 Coated elastic thread L4 Coated elastic thread L5 Nylon thread 78dtex / 34 filament L6 Cotton thread 120S / 2 Also, the basic knitting structure is set as follows, and the number of needles is 513.
The number of books and knitting courses is 4500 courses,
The knitting structure was changed so that the lower abdomen had a high elongation.

L1 Ground organization 11/00 L2 Ground organization 10/01 L3 Jacquard 10/01 and 10/12 combination L4 Jacquard 10/01 and 10/12 combination L5 Ground organization 10/01 L6 Ground organization 11 / [0099] The runner length was set as follows.

L1 150 mm L2 1300 mm L3 1500 mm L4 1500 mm L5 1300 mm L6 150 mm The knitted fabric knitted in this way is refined, dyed, and finished in a long state with many bodysuits connected. After dyeing, the product was processed by treating the top part of the bodysuit, finishing the hem of the legs, and processing the crotch.

The manufactured body suit has high stretching power in the waist and lower abdomen, and the difference between the bust portion and the stretching rate is 1.4 times. It was a good product not found in conventional bodysuits. [Comparative Example 2] Using a 28 gauge Russell warp knitting machine,
A 6-course satin structure was knitted with a nylon yarn of 56 dtex / 24 filaments and a Leica yarn of 310 dtex and dyed and finished. A girdle having the same design as in Example 1 was sewn using the fabric so that the weft direction was the product vertical direction. Further, in Example 1, a boundary portion having a different extension force was sewn as a joint.

When the manufactured girdle was worn, the product was tightened as a whole and did not have a moldability, and the sewn portions were loose and the wearing feeling was not good. [Example 5] 24-gauge equipped with 6 reeds, 5 mm between pots
Using a double Russell machine, knitting of a sheet with reduced sewing was knitted, and the following thread was threaded through each reed.

L1 roica thread 22 dtex L2 nylon thread 55 dtex / 36 filament L3 roika thread 22 dtex L4 roika thread 22 dtex L5 nylon thread 55 dtex / 36 filament L6 roika thread 22 dtex Further, the basic knitting structure is set as follows, and the number of needles is 55.
There were no knitting courses, 850 courses, and knitting was performed from the part corresponding to the abdomen of the girdle in which the knitting structure was changed along the shape shown in FIG. In FIG. 1, the knitted fabric portion having a high elongation force knits a structure made of a nylon yarn and an elastic yarn, and the knitted fabric portion having a low elongation force is formed as a pattern knitted by an elastic yarn in a denby structure made of a nylon yarn. . Also, as shown in FIG. 1, the knitted fabric was connected to the left and right needle beds so that the left and right leg tubular knitted fabrics and the crotch tubular knitted fabric were formed.

L1 Ground organization 00/11 L2 Ground organization 10/01 L3 Jacquard 10/01 and 10/12, 10/2
Combination of 3 L4 Jacquard 10/01 and 10/12, 10/2
Combination of 3 L5 Ground organization 10/01 L6 Ground organization 00/11 The runner length was set as follows.

L1 100 mm L1 1200 mm L3 200 mm L4 200 mm L5 1200 mm L6 100 mm The knitted fabric knitted in this way is refined, dyed and finished in a long state with many girdles connected, and dyed. After processing, the knitted fabric has a stretch ratio of 2.5 between the high and low elongation sections, and is used to process the waist of the girdle, trim the legs, and process the crotch. The product.

When the elongation power and the feeling of wearing of this product were evaluated, the product was thin and excellent in fitting property and moldability, and the wearing feeling was not as good as that of a conventional product.

[0039]

The product comprising the tubular knitted fabric according to the present invention is
It has excellent fit and moldability, can maintain a beautiful silhouette when worn, and is a good product with a feeling of wearing that is not found in conventional products.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a tubular knitted fabric of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 a: One side of the tubular knitted fabric, front body in the product b: The other side of the tubular knitted fabric (back body in the product) 1. High knitted fabric part 2: Low knitted fabric part 3: Leg The space between the tubular knitted fabric of the section and the tubular knitted fabric of the crotch section

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing from the front page (72) Inventor Shuichi Takemura 1-2-6 Dojimahama, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd. (72) Inventor Akira Yoshida 1-17-6 Mizurachi-cho, Sabae-shi, Fukui Prefecture Yoshida Industry Co., Ltd. (72) Inventor Katsuo Uno 5-1-6 Ishidagami, Sabae City, Fukui Prefecture F-term (reference) 4L002 AA05 AA06 AB02 AB04 AC01 CA01 CB01 EA03 EA06 FA00 FA03

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A tubular knitted fabric characterized in that an elastic yarn is supplied to each needle bed by using a double Russell warp knitting machine and knitted in a tubular shape. 2. A knitted fabric pattern portion having two or more kinds of knitted fabric portions having different stretching forces, and the ratio of the stretching force of these two or more knitted fabric pattern portions is 1.1 times or more. The tubular knitted fabric according to claim 1.