JP2007182650A - Weft knitted fabric for heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber blend and clothing using the same weft knitted fabric and method for producing the same weft knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a weft knitted fabric, in which cloth is stabilized without causing slipping-out of a polyurethane elastic fiber and non-elastic yarn and deformation, slippage, bird-caging, fray, spreading, slip-in and curling scarcely occurs and curling scarcely occurs even when wearing is repeated. <P>SOLUTION: Heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers 3 are heat-melted to each other by heat-setting a weft knitted fabric of a plain-knitted structure in which heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber is blended with nonelastic fibers 1 and 2. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention is a so-called “fraying” in which a garment made from a weft knitted fabric mixed with polyurethane elastic fibers is “deformed, misaligned, soft”, and the yarn comes out of the cut portion, which is caused by repeated stretching during wearing. Ladder-like scratches and misalignments that occur in the tissue, that is, “run, densen”, “curl” in which the fabric is curved, and only elastic fibers come out from the seam portion of the cut and sewn product, and the fabric is partially It is related to a weft knitted fabric in which the “slip-in” or the like is lost, and the weft knitted fabric of a flat knitted structure in which the “curl” is less likely to occur after wearing, and the weft knitted fabric. The present invention relates to a garment used in a state in which it is cut along an arbitrary line, that is, so-called “uncut”.

  Clothes using stretch fabrics such as weft knitted fabrics, warp knitted fabrics, and woven fabrics mixed with polyurethane elastic fibers are widely used because of their high elongation and good recovery and fit from the stretched state. However, when the fabric mixed with polyurethane elastic fiber is stretched and worn repeatedly while cutting, it deforms and becomes a non-uniform fabric, `` deformation, misalignment, soft '', `` fraying '' that the thread comes out, and the fabric structure Problems such as “run, densen” with ladder-like scratches and misalignment, and “curl” with curved fabric are likely to occur. In addition, so-called “slip-in”, in which the polyurethane elastic fiber comes out of the seam by repeated elongation at the sewing portion, is also likely to occur.

  These phenomena occur even in a woven or knitted fabric using elastic fibers other than polyurethane elastic fibers, but are particularly remarkable in the case of polyurethane elastic fibers having strong stretchability.

  As a countermeasure against these problems, it is common practice to fold the edge of the knitted fabric or sew it with another cloth or elastic tape, but the convex shape, step, seam, etc. are directly on the skin. There are concerns about skin damage due to contact, a decrease in wearing feeling such as touch and comfort, and a decrease in aesthetics that it easily cracks on the outer garment. There has been a demand for clothing that can be used as it is.

  As a method of making a garment as it is without sewing the fabric edge, a knitted fabric that can be used with “cut-off” by increasing the density in the warp knitted fabric or by selecting a structure or the like has been found (Patent Document) 1). However, the warp knitted fabric of Patent Document 1 has a problem that the entire fabric is thick and cannot be applied to thin clothing, and it may fray or curl depending on the cutting angle.

  On the other hand, the weft knitted fabric can make the entire fabric thinner than the warp knitted fabric, but the density is generally lower than that of the warp knitted fabric and is usually easily frayed.

  Therefore, there is a method of selecting a knitting structure called a stop knitting for the end of the knitted fabric, but since the stop knitting changes the structure of the end of the knitted fabric, it is in a state of being cut at an arbitrary line, so-called It is not possible to make clothing with “cutting out”. In addition, the stop knitting has a problem that a special knitting machine is required, and it is difficult to increase productivity, which becomes a serious bottleneck in reducing the cost.

  Further, a method has been found to adjust the cover factor of the end knitted structure to prevent the end knitted structure and curling of the garment having the terminal knitted structure (Patent Document 2). Since the organization is changed, it is not possible to make a garment in a state where it is cut by an arbitrary line, that is, so-called “cutting out”.

  Therefore, heat-bonding polyurethane elastic fibers are heat-bonded to each other to reduce deformation, misalignment, softness, fraying, run, densen, and curl. Proposals to be made (Patent Document 3 and Patent Document 4) have been made.

  However, as in Examples 3 and 4 of Patent Document 3, when the fineness of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is larger than the fineness of the non-elastic fiber and the mixture ratio of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is high, The effect of heat-sealing polyurethane elastic fibers on the knitted fabric due to heat-bonding and high setability is great, and curling can be suppressed, but there is a problem that the feeling of power is increased, the rubber-like texture is increased, and the cost is increased. .

  Further, as in Patent Document 4, a cut-out garment using a weft knitted fabric having a fray-preventing function has been proposed, but the curl is not mentioned.

  Furthermore, by setting the knitting structure to milling knitting, pearl knitting, etc., the front stitches of the flat knitting are knitted on the front and back sides of the fabric, the direction of the stitches to be offset is offset, and the weft knitting is less likely to curl even if stretched Although the ground is obtained, there is a problem that the knitted fabric becomes thick because the front and back sides of the flat knitted fabric are knitted, and the flat knitted structure that can form a thin knitted fabric remains cut with an arbitrary line, so-called `` The demand for a weft knitted fabric that can be used as it is is very high.

JP 2003-147618 A JP 2005-105480 A WO2004 / 053218 Publication JP 2005-113349 A

  The present invention prevents the polyurethane elastic fiber and inelastic yarn used from the cut and sewn part from slipping out, the fabric is stable, deformation, misalignment, soft, fraying, run, densen and slip-in are unlikely to occur. The polyurethane elastic fiber mixed weft knitted fabric in which curling is difficult to occur even if the above is repeated, and the manufacturing method thereof, the weft knitted fabric being cut with an arbitrary line such as a straight line, a curve, or a combination of a curve and a straight line, so-called “cut” The object is to provide a garment that is used in the “punch” or “free cut”.

  As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the inventor of the present invention heat-set a flat knitted fabric weft knitted fabric (hereinafter, also referred to as a tenji knitted fabric) in which heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers are mixed. By doing so, heat fusion occurs between the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fibers, without causing a decrease in strength, and misalignment, softness, fraying, run, densen and slip-in are less likely to occur. By using weft knitted fabric with a weight of 50% or less, it is possible to obtain clothing that is resistant to misalignment, softness, fraying, orchid, densen, slip-in, and curling even if it is repeatedly worn with “cut off”. It discovered and came to make this invention.

That is, the present invention
[1] A weft knitted fabric used for cut garments including a knitted fabric that has been cut at an arbitrary line in a part or all of a garment edge or a part of a non-garment edge, A weft knitted fabric composed of a flat knitted structure having a curl suppressing function,
[2] The weft knitted fabric is composed of (1) a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber or a composite yarn of a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber and another fiber, and (2) a non-elastic fiber. The weft knitted fabric according to [1], wherein the fibers are heat-sealed and the curl property immediately after 22N load elongation is 50% or less,
[3] The weft knitted fabric according to [2], wherein the mixed use of (1) and (2) is a plating knitting,
[4] The weft knitted fabric according to [2] or [3], wherein the fineness of the heat-sealed polyurethane elastic fiber is equal to or less than the fineness of the non-elastic fiber,
[5] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [2] to [4], wherein the mixed proportion of the heat-sealing polyurethane elastic fiber is 5% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less,
[6] A garment using the weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [5], and [7] (1) a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber or a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber; (2) a weft knitted fabric of a flat knitted structure obtained by plating a non-elastic fiber, the weft knitted fabric having a wet heat of 100 to 130 ° C. or a dry heat of 130 to 220 ° C. A method for producing a weft knitted fabric, wherein the heat-set polyurethane elastic fibers are heat-sealed by heat setting,
Is to provide.

  In producing uncut clothing, weft fabric of flat knitted fabric mixed with heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers is heat-bonded with heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers. To prevent deformation, misalignment, softness, fraying, run, densen and slip-in, and a weft knitted fabric with a curl property of 50% or less immediately after 22N load elongation is obtained. By doing so, a garment free from deformation, misalignment, softness, fraying, run, densen, slip-in and curling can be obtained even after repeated wear.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
The weft knitted fabric of the present invention has a curl-suppressing function that is used for cut garments that remain cut at an arbitrary line at a part or all of the garment edge or at a part that is not the garment edge. It is a weft knitted fabric of a knitted structure (so-called Tenjiku knitting). For example, the weft knitted fabric is a tenshi knitted fabric in which heat-bonding polyurethane elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers are mixed by plating, and heat-sealed by heat setting. A knitted fabric in which polyurethane elastic fibers are heat-sealed and curling properties immediately after 22N load elongation is 50% or less can be suitably used.

  Here, the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is heat-sealed between polyurethane elastic fibers or the polyurethane elastic fiber and the common fiber in the knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric has high anti-knitting resistance. As long as it is a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber that has a high effect on the knitting resistance of the cut-off portion, there is no particular limitation on its composition, production method, etc. For example, a polyol and an excess molar amount of diisocyanate are reacted. To produce a polyurethane intermediate polymer having isocyanate groups at both ends, and reacting a low molecular weight diamine or a low molecular weight diol having an active hydrogen capable of easily reacting with the isocyanate group of the intermediate polymer in an inert organic solvent. To produce a polyurethane solution (polymer solution), then remove the solvent and form into a yarn, or polyol, diisocyanate and low molecular weight dia A polymer obtained by reacting with a polymer or a low molecular weight diol and solidifying and dissolving in a solvent, then removing the solvent and forming into a yarn, and forming the yarn by heating without dissolving the solidified polymer in the solvent A method of reacting the polyol, diisocyanate and low molecular weight diol to obtain a polymer, forming the polymer into a yarn without solidifying, and further, the polymer or polymer solution obtained by each of the above methods. After mixing, there is a method of removing the solvent from the mixed polymer solution and forming into a yarn. Among these, (A) both-end isocyanate group prepolymer obtained by reacting polyol and diisocyanate, and (B) both-end hydroxyl group prepolymer obtained by reacting polyol, diisocyanate and low molecular weight diol. The method of melt spinning without solidifying the polymer obtained by reacting with is economically or environmentally advantageous because it does not involve recovery of the solvent.

  The thermal fusion strength of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably 0.10 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 0.15 cN / dtex or more. When the heat-bonding force is less than 0.10 cN / decitex, the knitted fabric has low anti-knitting resistance, and the knitted fabric may curl, fray, run, densen, slip-in, or misalignment may occur. .

  The thickness of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably 11 to 311 dtex, more preferably 15 to 156 dtex, and still more preferably 22 to 78 dtex, in terms of the texture of the knitted fabric. . If the polyurethane elastic fiber is thinner than 11 decitex, the yarn may break during heat treatment, and the stretch recovery and power of the knitted fabric may be reduced. If it is thicker than 311 decitex, the knitting property will decrease. In some cases, the power of the knitted fabric is too strong, but changing the fineness depending on the application is not impeded.

  As a usage form of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention, the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber may be used alone (so-called bare yarn), or a covering yarn, a twisted yarn, an air entangled yarn, Composite yarns with other fibers may be used. However, it is preferable to use the polyurethane elastic fiber with bare yarn because it is easy to heat-seal and not costly.

  Other fibers used in the composite yarn are not particularly limited, for example, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, and polynosic, semi-regenerated fibers such as acetate, nylon, Chemical synthetic fibers such as polyester and acrylic can be used.

  The inelastic fiber used in the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, and polynosic, semi-regenerated fibers such as acetate, nylon, polyester, Arbitrary yarns such as filament yarns such as chemically synthesized fibers such as acrylic, staple yarns, and staple blended yarns can be used, but inelastic fibers including at least one kind of thermoplastic synthetic fiber are preferably used.

  In addition, examples of inelastic fibers preferable for fraying suppression and curling prevention include those in which the convergence of filaments and single yarns is strengthened by additional twisting or the like. Regarding the reason, it is considered that the inter-fiber friction is low and it is easy to slide, it is easy to recover to the original stitch shape after stretching the knitted fabric, and there is little spreading of the cut fiber when the knitted fabric is cut. . Another effective method is to alternately use S-twisted and Z-twisted yarns every other course and arrange them on the knitted fabric so that the torques remaining in the respective fibers cancel each other. Furthermore, for non-elastic fibers that are shared with the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber, a thermoplastic composition that undergoes a plastic change at the temperature at which the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is heat-sealed, and is thermally set or the fiber surface is softened. The use of fibers increases the shape stability of the stitches and is effective in suppressing fraying and curling. The effect can be exhibited by using ordinary thermoplastic synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, nylon fibers, polyethylene fibers, polypropylene fibers, and polylactic acid fibers.

  The thickness of the non-elastic fiber depends on the application, but in the case of staple yarn, the cotton count is 8 to 120, particularly 30 to 80, and in the case of filament yarn, 12 to 660 dtex, especially 22 to 167 dtex. However, it is not imperative to change the fineness depending on the application. These inelastic fibers can be used singly or in combination of two or more.

  The form of mixing inelastic fibers is not particularly limited, but two or more types of inelastic fibers may be used by being twisted and mixed, or may be knitted together. Moreover, various functions and textures can be imparted to the knitted fabric, such as hygroscopicity, antibacterial properties, deodorant properties, heat retention properties, and cooling sensation, depending on the type of inelastic fiber.

  In addition, the number of filaments of inelastic fibers is not particularly limited, but as the number of filaments increases, the contribution to prevention of curling increases or the texture becomes softer, and when the number of filaments decreases, the contribution to fraying suppression increases greatly. It can be used according to the plan, for example, a knitted fabric texture can be obtained.

  The fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber is preferably equal to or less than the fineness of the inelastic fiber. By doing in this way, a texture can be improved and it is useful as a knitted fabric with a good fit, a stretch feeling, and a power feeling.

  The mixture ratio of the non-elastic fiber and the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber preferably includes 5 to 30% by mass of the polyurethane elastic fiber with respect to the entire knitted fabric. If it exceeds 30% by mass, the feeling of power becomes too strong, or a rubber-like texture is obtained. When the amount is less than 5% by mass, the shrinkage force of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the knitted fabric becomes small and curling is suppressed, but the stretch recovery property of the knitted fabric is lowered.

The mixing ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber of the present invention is the formula (1) when the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is used alone, and when the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is a composite yarn with other fibers. It is the value calculated by equation (2).
((PD / DR1) / (PD / DR1 + D1)) × 100 (1) where PD is the total fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber (the total fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber, decitex), and DR1 is the polyurethane elastic fiber. D1 indicates the total fineness of the mixed non-elastic fibers (the total value of the fineness of the mixed non-elastic fibers, decitex).
((PD / DR2) / (PD / DR2 + D1 + D2)) × 100 (2) Formula Here, PD is the total fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber (the total value of the fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber, decitex), and DR2 is the composite yarn production The draw ratio (times) of polyurethane at the time, D1 is the total fineness of mixed non-elastic fibers (total value of mixed non-elastic fibers, decitex), and D2 is another fiber combined with polyurethane elastic fibers The total fineness (total value of fineness of other fibers combined with polyurethane elastic fiber, decitex).

  The method for producing a weft knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained by a tentacle knitting in which heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers (including composite yarns thereof) and non-elastic fibers are mixed. The method of weaving the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber and the non-elastic fiber can adjust and stabilize the position of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber and the non-elastic fiber in the stitch. Plating knitting that can be crossed and brought into contact with all loops is preferable. The knitted fabric obtained by plating knitting is heat-bonded with heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers by heat treatment. All loops can be fixed, curling and fraying are suppressed throughout the knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric is cut with any line such as a straight line, a curve, or a combination of a curve and a straight line, so-called “cut” It can be suitably used as a garment used in “Kuranase” or “Free Cut”.

  As for the knitting machine, a normal knitting machine used for producing the weft knitted fabric can be used, and the knitted fabric can be produced according to a conventional method. As an example, when a single cylinder circular knitting machine is used, the gauge is preferably 12 to 42 G, and it is preferable to use a dedicated plating needle as the knitting needle.

  The knitting yarn length of the non-elastic fiber depends on the fineness of the non-elastic fiber, but the fineness of the fiber used in the present invention, the type of knitting machine, the gauge range of the knitting machine, and a thin to medium thick fabric is obtained. For the purpose, it is preferably 10 to 100 cm / 100 W, more preferably 15 to 94 cm / 100 W. Here, the knitting yarn length is a mark on an arbitrary wale of the knitted fabric, a mark is placed on the 100th wale from there, a knitting is performed, an initial load (0.02 kgf) is applied, and the length between the marks is measured. It is the value.

  It should be noted that the effect of suppressing fraying and curling can also be increased by adjusting the stitches. Specifically, by adjusting the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber, the size and shape of the stitch of the non-elastic fiber and the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber or the composite yarn of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber and another fiber By aligning the knitted fabric, it is possible to obtain a knitted fabric having a great effect of suppressing fraying and curling. Usually, the range of the inelastic fiber cover factor is 0.1 or more, preferably 0.35 to 1.10, and more preferably 0.40 to 1.00.

  If the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber is less than 0.1, the knitted fabric has more voids and is not suitable for covering the body. If the cover factor is too high, the fabric becomes thick and suitable for clothing that requires light weight. Absent. Further, when the cover factor is less than 0.35, in a state where the stretch of the knitted fabric is restored, the stitches of the non-elastic fibers are large, and the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers or the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers and other fibers The stitches of the composite yarn become smaller, the stitches of each other tend to be uneven, and the effect of suppressing fraying and curling tends to decrease. On the other hand, when the cover factor is increased, the stitches tend to be aligned easily. However, if the cover factor exceeds 1.10, the amount of fibers becomes too large, the feeling of thickness increases, the weight increases, and the cost increases. Arise. If the range of the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber is 0.40 to 1.00, the above-mentioned various problems can be solved, which is particularly preferable.

The cover factor of the present invention is a value calculated by equation (3).
CF = 1 / (L / 100 × √ (5905 / D1)) (3)
Here, CF represents the cover factor, L represents the braided yarn length (cm / 100 W) of the inelastic fiber, and D1 represents the fineness (decitex) of the inelastic fiber.

  The knitting magnification and the knitting yarn length of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber or the composite yarn of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber and other fibers may be set according to the conditions required for the knitted fabric such as knitted fabric properties and texture. Good.

  After knitting the weft knitted fabric in this way, the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers constituting the knitted fabric are heat-sealed by heat setting. As the heat setting method, either a dry heat set or a wet heat set may be adopted. In the knitted fabric after setting, the movement of the non-elastic fiber can be controlled when the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber or the composite yarn of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber and other fibers and the stitches of the non-elastic fiber are aligned. It becomes easy and effective in suppressing fraying and curling.

  When performing dry heat setting, for example, it can be performed by opening the knitted fabric and using a setting machine such as a pin tenter and heat fixing with hot air. Further, it is possible to carry out heat setting in a bag shape or a cylindrical shape without opening the knitted fabric without any problem. In this case, the set temperature is preferably 130 to 220 ° C., particularly 140 to 200 ° C., and the set time is preferably 10 to 180 seconds, particularly 20 to 120 seconds.

  On the other hand, the wet heat setting method can be performed by heat-fixing with saturated steam at a predetermined pressure in a conventional manner with the knitted fabric placed in the template. In this case, the set temperature is preferably 100 to 130 ° C, particularly 105 to 125 ° C, and the set time is preferably 2 to 120 seconds, particularly 5 to 60 seconds.

  If the set temperature is higher than 220 ° C. dry heat or 130 ° C. wet heat, it adversely affects the texture of the product, fastness to dyeing, etc., which is not preferable. When the dry heat is lower than 130 ° C. or the wet heat is lower than 100 ° C., the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber may not be heat-sealable, and the knitted fabric may have unstable dimensions and properties.

  Dyeing can be carried out in a conventional manner, but it is difficult to generate orchids because heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers or composite yarns of heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers and other fibers are fixed by heat-sealing. Therefore, a strong softening treatment can be performed by using a softening agent having a high softening effect or increasing the amount of softening agent used. For example, it is preferable to strengthen the softening treatment because non-elastic fibers can be slippery and curling can be suppressed.

  Further, the weft knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a curl property immediately after 22N load extension is 50% or less. The curling property immediately after 22N load extension is an index showing the degree of curling of the knitted fabric cut portion after repeated wear of the product, that is, stretching of the knitted fabric. The smaller the value, the less curling occurs. This indicates that the knitted fabric is suitable for uncut products. The curl measurement method is as described later.

  Furthermore, the curling property at the time of cutting was also evaluated. The amount of curling at the time of cutting is naturally smaller than the curl immediately after the 22N load is extended. It is to be noted that the object of the present invention is to provide a cut-off product that has an effect of suppressing curling and fraying and is cut with a straight line or a curve that can be used practically such as wearing and washing. Even in products that are cut and sewed at the cutting part, curling is greatly reduced in the cutting process, which is the manufacturing process, and exhibits remarkable effects in workability, productivity, dimensional stability, etc. .

  The weft knitted fabric of the present invention can be sewn without causing curling, fraying, run, etc. even if the structure is fixed by thermally fusing together the heat-bonded polyurethane fibers and the cut part is left cut. You can save time. Furthermore, since it is a thin weft knitted fabric that does not curl, fray, or run even when worn repeatedly, it is possible to save the trouble of finishing the cut portion.

In addition, innerwear using the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is suitable for various innerwear and knitted clothing because the outer garment is hard to crack and has excellent aesthetics, and there is no mark on the skin. Can do. In addition, the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is used for at least a part of knitwear without cutting, such as shorts, shirts, camisole, slips, body suits, briefs, trunks, underwear, girdles, bras, spats, stomach wraps, etc. Clothing can be provided.
The weft knitted fabric of the present invention is used for at least a part of knitwear to create a functional and sporty impression on various sportswear such as swimwear, training wear, leotards, skiing, baseball and soccer. Can be granted.
Furthermore, the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is used for at least a part of a knit garment to make it a cut garment such as a T-shirt, jacket, sweater, vest, or a glove, hat, pajamas, gown, etc. Can provide clothing with no function, design and impression.
In addition, depending on the preferences of consumers, such as consumers, products such as clothing can be cut and used, or a part of the product can be cut out in any shape such as a circle, diamond, heart, star shape, etc. It can also be used in a fashioned state.
In addition, it can be used safely with no problem in terms of durability in terms of durability even when compared with conventional sewn garments and with garments using conventional non-heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers. (Consumable durability is a characteristic that expresses whether a consumer using clothing possesses physical properties that can withstand normal use such as wearing, washing, drying, and storage.)

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are shown and this invention is demonstrated concretely, this invention is not limited to the following Example.

[Example 1]
A weft knitted fabric was knitted based on the knitting organization chart of FIG. 1 with a circular knitting machine (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho, hook diameter: 38 inches, gauge: 28, number of needles: 3336, number of yarn feeders: 100). In FIG. 1, 1 is a 6-Nylon false twisted yarn 78 dtex 52 filament S twisted from Toray Co., Ltd., and 2 is a 6-Nylon false twisted yarn 78 dtex 52 filament Z made from Toray Ltd. Twisted, 3 is a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber 44 dtex, 4 is a cylinder needle, and F1 and F2 are respective yarn feeders. The braided yarn length of the nylon false twisted yarn was set to 25.6 cm / 100 W, and the braided magnification of the polyurethane elastic fiber was set to 2.4 times. In this knitted structure, nylon false twisted yarn 1 or 2 and polyurethane elastic fiber 3 were knitted with a plating knitting, and a full needle knit knitting was performed with a cylinder needle 4 to obtain a bare tentacle knitted fabric. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 19.0% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.45.

  The obtained knitted fabric was opened and subjected to a dry heat treatment at 185 ° C. for 60 seconds using a pin tenter as a preset process. Subsequently, after dyeing by a conventional method, as a final setting step, a pin tenter was used and treated at 160 ° C. for 30 seconds.

  Evaluation of thermal fusion, curling at the time of cutting, curling immediately after 22N load extension, damage evaluation / curl evaluation by washing, fraying / curl evaluation of knitted fabric by wearing test were carried out as follows, and the results were Table 1 shows.

<Evaluation of thermal fusion degree>
The knitted fabric was cut in the course direction, the cut part was knitted, and the knitting tension of the polyurethane elastic fiber or the composite yarn containing the polyurethane elastic fiber was measured. The knitting speed was 100 mm / min, and the average tension for 1 minute was measured. When it is difficult to disassemble the polyurethane elastic fiber or the polyurethane elastic fiber in the composite yarn, heat fusion is good, and when continuous disassembly is possible, the average disassembly tension after the heat treatment is measured. The average deknitting tension (cN) after the heat treatment was divided by the initial fineness (decitex) of the polyurethane elastic fiber to obtain the heat fusion force (cN / decitex), and the following evaluation was performed.
<Evaluation criteria>
Good thermal fusion: When the polyurethane elastic fiber or the polyurethane elastic fiber in the composite yarn is difficult to disassemble (the thermal fusing force is impossible), or the thermal fusing force is 0.10 cN / dtex or more.
Thermal fusion failure: Thermal fusion force is less than 0.10 cN / decitex.

<Curlability during cutting>
A sample piece of length 10.0 cm × width 10.0 cm was collected and allowed to stand at a temperature of 20 ± 2 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65 ± 2% for 4 hours. The minimum value of (dimension) was measured, and the curling property was calculated by the following formula.
Curling property at the time of cutting (%) = (original dimension—projected dimension after standing for 4 hours) / original dimension × 100
The curling property at the time of cutting was evaluated according to the following four levels. In addition, the occurrence of curling is already large at the cutting stage, and it is necessary to return the curled part to the original state at the sewing stage and sew it while holding it down. This also leads to the generation of defective products, which reduces work efficiency and productivity. ◎ or ○ is curled at the cutting stage and is preferable from the viewpoint of improving work efficiency and productivity, such as being able to sew as it is at the sewing stage without using it without cutting.
<Evaluation criteria>
A: Curl property 0%
○: Curling property over 0% to 10% or less △: Curling property over 10% to 50% or less ×: Curling property over 50%

<Curlability immediately after 22N load extension>
Take a sample piece of length 2.5 cm x width 16 cm, hold it by a tensile tester with a grasping length of 10 cm, and stretch the sample piece at a constant speed in the horizontal direction at an extension speed of 300 mm / min until the stress reaches 22 N once. Elongate. Next, the load was removed, the minimum value of the projected dimension (dimension 6 in FIG. 2) of the sample immediately after stretching onto the plane in the vertical direction was measured, and the curl property was calculated by the following equation. The environment during the measurement was a temperature of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%.
Curling property immediately after 22N load extension (%) = (dimension before extension−projected dimension in the vertical direction after extension) / dimension before extension × 100
The curl property immediately after 22N load extension was evaluated according to the following 4 grades. In addition, Δ and X are large in curling and the sample is rounded, and ◎ or ○ is preferable because curling is suppressed.
<Evaluation criteria>
：: Curling property 25% or less ○: Curling property 25% or more and 50% or less △: Curling property 50% or more and 75% or less ×: Curling property is more than 75%, or curling occurs immediately after cutting the sample.

<Damage evaluation and curl evaluation by washing>
Take a knitted fabric sample of 5cm in length and 40cm in width, make 5 incisions at 40 ° with respect to the waling direction of the knitted fabric, sew it in a cylindrical shape with a cut surface in the vertical direction, and then use 2 tanks for home use Using a washing machine (trade name: GINGA4.5, manufactured by Toshiba Corporation), washing was performed under the following conditions.
Washing (300 minutes) → Centrifugal dehydration (5 minutes) → Rinsing water (10 minutes) → Centrifugal dehydration (5 minutes)
Liquid temperature: normal temperature (25 ° C), water flow: strong water flow Detergent: manufactured by Kao Corporation, trade name: Attack, water volume: 30 liters 1.3 liters of detergent for 1 liter of washing water Load cloth: cotton and polyurethane elastic fiber Next, observe the presence or absence of curl of the knitted fabric and the degree of fraying at the edge of the knitted fabric cut in the horizontal direction and the edge of the knitted fabric cut at 40 ° with respect to the wale direction. The fraying degree was evaluated according to the following four levels. In addition, △ and X have poor appearance with thread ends protruding from the cut surface, and the cutting line has irregularities, and ◎ or ○ has no thread end protruding from the cut surface, has a good appearance, and is durable for washing. This is preferable.
<Evaluation criteria>
(Double-circle): A bruise is not recognized but there is no difference with before washing. Good durability.
○: Slightly damaged, but no thread end popping out. Good durability.
Δ: Scratches are recognized and the yarn ends are protruding. Poor durability.
×: Severely bruised and the knitted fabric structure of the cut surface is broken. Poor durability.
As for curling, the presence or absence of curling of the sample after washing was visually evaluated.

<Evaluation of fraying and curling of knitted fabric by wearing test>
Based on the pattern diagram of FIG. 3, the knitted fabric is cut so that 11 lines are near 90 ° with respect to the knitted fabric wale direction, and 7, 9, 8, and 10 (7 to 10 are sewing portions) are overlapped. The shorts were made by sewing together and cutting the 11 waist part, 12 hip part, 13 bikini part, and 14 crotch part as they were cut.
In addition, the cutting angle and line with respect to the knitted fabric wale direction of each part were as follows.
Waist part: Curve in the vicinity of 90 ° Hip part: Curve in the range of 40 ° to 60 ° Bikini part: Curve in the range of 20 ° to 90 ° Crotch part: Curve in the vicinity of 0 ° The prepared shorts were worn, washed and dried for 3 days. . The degree of fraying at the edge of the knitted fabric after wearing for 3 days and the state of curling after wearing during the wearing were observed and evaluated according to the following 4 levels. In addition, as for the damage evaluation, △ and × are those with a bad appearance that the thread end protrudes from the cut surface and the cutting line becomes uneven, and ◎ or ○ is a good appearance without protruding the yarn end from the cut surface It is preferable in terms of washing durability.
<Break evaluation criteria>
A: No damage is observed and there is no difference from before wearing. Good durability.
○: Slightly damaged, but no thread end popping out. Good durability.
Δ: Scratches are recognized and the yarn ends are protruding. Poor durability.
×: Severely bruised and the knitted fabric structure of the cut surface is broken. Poor durability.
Regarding the evaluation of curl, △ and × indicate that curl has occurred during wearing and is not resolved even after washing. The curled part can be broken and the part folded into the outer garment can be seen or worn. It is unpleasant, and ◎ or ○ is preferred as clothing because no curling occurs during wearing, the outer garment does not crack, and even if curled after wearing, the curling is eliminated by washing.
<Curl evaluation criteria>
◎: No curling during or after wearing. Good durability.
○: Curling was observed immediately after wearing, but it was resolved by washing and drying. Good durability.
Δ: Curling occurs after wearing and does not disappear even after washing and drying. Poor durability.
X: Curling occurs during wearing, and does not disappear even after washing and drying. Poor durability.

  Note that having a curl suppressing function means a state in which the curl property at the time of cutting, the curl property immediately after the 22N load extension, and the curl evaluation in the wearing test are 若 し く は or ○ and there is no curl in the washing test. Shall.

[Example 2]
In FIG. 1, Example 1 except that 1 is a 6 nylon false twisted yarn 78 dtex 24 filament S twist manufactured by Toray Industries, Ltd. and 2 is a 6 nylon false twisted yarn 78 dtex 24 filament Z twist manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc. A knitted fabric similar to No. 1 was knitted, the same processing was performed, and then a similar test was performed. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 19.0% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.45.

[Example 3]
A knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was knitted except that the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber of Example 1 was changed to 33 dtex, and a similar test was performed after performing the same processing. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 15.0% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.45.

[Example 4]
A knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was knitted except that the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber of Example 1 was 78 dtex and the preset temperature was 190 ° C., and the same processing was performed after performing the same processing. . The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 29.4% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.45.

[Example 5]
The heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber of Example 1 is 78 dtex, and in FIG. 1, 1 and 2 are Taslan-processed yarns of normal temperature cationic dyeable polyester 33 dtex 12 filaments and nylon 78 dtex 68 filaments manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co., Ltd. Nylon mixture ratio 70%), a knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 except that the knitted yarn length of the twisted yarn was 27.6 cm / 100 W, and the knitting magnification of the heat fusion polyurethane elastic fiber was 2.8 times. After knitting and performing the same processing, the same test was conducted. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 20.1% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.50.

[Example 6]
In FIG. 1 of Example 1, the same knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted except that 1 and 2 were made into room temperature cationic dyeable polyester false twisted yarn 84 dtex 30 filament S twist manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd. The same test was conducted after the above processing. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 17.9% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.47.

[Example 7]
In FIG. 1 of Example 1, 1 is Nisshinbo Co., Ltd. cotton yarn 60-count S twist, 2 is Nisshinbo Co., Ltd. cotton yarn 60-number Z twist, the braided yarn length of the cotton yarn is 27.6 cm / 100 W, heat A knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was knitted except that the knitting magnification of the fused polyurethane elastic fiber was 2.9 times and the preset temperature was 180 ° C., the same processing was performed, and the same test was performed. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 13.4% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.47.

[Example 8]
A knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was knitted except that the heat-bonding polyurethane elastic fiber of Example 1 was set to 156 dtex and the preset was set to 195 ° C. for 120 seconds. went. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 45.5% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.45.

[Example 9]
A knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was knitted except that the preset of Example 1 was changed to 175 ° C. for 30 seconds, and the same test was performed after performing the same processing. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 19.0% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.45.

[Example 10]
In FIG. 1 of Example 7, the same knitted fabric as in Example 7 was knitted except that 3 was heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber 17 dtex and the magnification was 2.4 times. The test was conducted. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 6.6% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.47.

[Example 11]
In FIG. 1 of Example 7, 1 and 2 are carried out except that Nisshinbo Co., Ltd. cotton yarn 40-count S-twist, Z-twist, and 3 are heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber 17 dtex and knitted to a magnification of 2.4 times. A knitted fabric similar to that in Example 7 was knitted, the same processing was performed, and then a similar test was performed. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 4.5% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.57.

[Comparative Example 1]
In FIG. 1 of Example 1, the same knitted fabric as in Example 1 is knitted except that 3 is set to general polyurethane elastic fiber 33 decitex (Mobilon P type yarn manufactured by Nisshinbo Industries, Ltd.), and the same processing is performed. A similar test was conducted after the test. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 15.0% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.45.

[Comparative Example 2]
1 and 2 in FIG. 1 are the same as in Example 10 except that Nisshinbo Co., Ltd. cotton yarn 60-count Z-twist is used, and 3 is general polyurethane elastic fiber 33 dtex (Nisshinbo Mobilon P-type yarn). A knitted fabric was knitted and subjected to the same processing, followed by the same test. The results are shown in Table 1. The mixture ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the obtained knitted fabric was 13.4% by mass, and the cover factor of the non-elastic fiber was 0.47.

In the knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 10, the structure is fixed by heat fusion, and scars on the cut portions are hardly observed in the washing and wearing tests, and curling is hardly generated in any of the tests. It was a thing. In addition, when manufacturing products such as shorts, it was possible to save time and effort to widen and hold the curled portion of the sewing part, and it was difficult to run, so sewing could be performed quickly and reliably. In addition, it is possible to produce a cut product with a thin knitted fabric, it does not crack on the outer garment, no wear marks remain on the skin, low skin irritation, good feeling of wearing such as touch and comfort, washing, As a result of fraying even after repeated wear, a highly durable garment without curling was obtained.
In particular, Examples 1, 3, and 4 use nylon false twisted yarns that have been subjected to additional twist processing on non-elastic fibers, so that the curl-suppressing effect is high. Because of the low blending ratio of heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fibers, soft stretch and thin knitted fabrics can be produced. It was the best for clothing.
However, in Example 8, the tissue was fixed by heat fusion, and scars on the cut portions were hardly observed in the washing and wearing tests, and curling was not likely to occur in either test. However, because of the high blending ratio of polyurethane elastic fibers, the feeling of power is strong, and it has a rubber-like texture, and the total fineness increases to make the fabric thicker and heavier, making it thin and gentle on the skin. Was an unsuitable knitted fabric.
In the knitted fabric of Example 9, the knitting tension of the knitted fabric before presetting is 0.8 cN, and the knitting tension of the knitted fabric after presetting is 7.1 cN. It has an adhesive strength and has good consumption durability such as fraying resistance and curling resistance even in washing and wearing tests, and can be used as clothing.
In Example 7, Example 10, and Example 11, the structure is fixed by heat fusion, and since the S-twist and Z-twist of the cotton yarn are alternately used, the needle loop of the cotton yarn is in the wale direction. On the other hand, the knitted fabric is a suitable knitted fabric that is inclined to the left and right, has a high course density, suppresses the movement of the needle loop, and does not easily curl or fray. In addition, Example 11 was a knitted fabric having a low stretch recovery property due to a low mixing ratio of PU.
On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are not heat-sealed, and the laundered portion is severely damaged in both the washing and wearing tests, and the curl is large in any test, so it cannot be used as uncut clothing. It was.

It is an organization chart of the Tengu edition. It is a vertical direction sectional view of the sample for curl measurement after extension. It is a pattern figure of the shorts for a wearing test.

Explanation of symbols

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Inelastic fiber 2 Inelastic fiber 3 Polyurethane elastic fiber 4 Cylinder needle F1 Yarn supply port F2 Yarn supply port 5 Sample for curl measurement 6 Projection dimension 7 Sewing part 8 Sewing part 9 Sewing part 10 Sewing part 11 Waist part 12 Hip part 13 Bikini Part 14 Crotch part

Claims (7)

A weft knitted fabric used for cut garments including a knitted fabric that has been cut in an arbitrary line at a part or all of the garment edge or a part of the garment that is not the rim of the garment, and has a curl suppressing function. Weft knitted fabric composed of a flat knitted fabric having The weft knitted fabric comprises (1) a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber or a composite yarn of a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber and another fiber, and (2) a non-elastic fiber. 2. The weft knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the curl property is 50% or less immediately after heat fusion and 22N load extension. The weft knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein the mixed use of (1) and (2) is a plating knitting. The weft knitted fabric according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber has a fineness equal to or less than that of the non-elastic fiber. The weft knitted fabric according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein a blending ratio of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fibers is 5% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less. A garment using the weft knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5. (1) a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber or a composite yarn of a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber and another fiber, and (2) a weft knitted fabric of a flat knitted structure obtained by plating a non-elastic fiber, A method for producing a weft knitted fabric, characterized in that the heat-bonding polyurethane elastic fibers are heat-sealed with each other by heat setting of a wet heat of 100 to 130 ° C or a dry heat of 130 to 220 ° C.

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