JPH10110343A - Polyester machine sewing thread and sewn product by using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester machine sewing thread excellent in sewing properties, good in compatibility with textiles, capable of providing a beautiful stitch and dyeable at normal pressure, and to provide a product by using the polyester machine sewing thread. SOLUTION: This polyester machine sewing thread comprises multifilament yarns which can be dyed under normal pressure and has the first and the second twists, and has the following characteristics: (A) the thread has >=100/m number of naps; (B) the thread has <=4g/d stress at yield point; (C) the thread has >=3.5g/d straight strength; and (D) the thread has <=3% dry heat shrinkage in a free state for 20min at 180 deg.C.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester sewing thread for dyeing a product, which is excellent in sewability, handleability and adaptability to fabric, and a sewn product using the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art When sewing a dyed fabric, the color of the sewing thread corresponding to the color of the fabric is selected and used. However, if the color of the fabric and the sewing thread are slightly different, a problem may occur. Many.

[0003] In recent years, the process of dyeing products, which are dyed after sewing apparel, has been attracting attention as an effective means for realizing a reduction in inventory, a shortened delivery time, and a small number of varieties in order to reduce costs, and has been put into practical use. In particular, it is widely used for inner uses such as lingerie.

However, since it is premised that a high-temperature and high-pressure dyeing machine is used in dyeing, there have been problems that color correction is difficult, a shrinkage ratio is increased, and the texture of a sewn product is hardened. On the other hand, in the case of softening the texture by using a composite material of natural fiber or synthetic fiber and synthetic fiber, or in cross-weaving or cross-knitting, the development of technology that can easily damage the fabric by dyeing the product at high temperature and dye it at low temperature as much as possible is required. .

[0005] From these viewpoints, a normal pressure dyeable polyester yarn has been developed as a material which can be dyed at normal temperature and normal pressure, and an environment for developing product dyeing by a normal pressure dyeing machine has been prepared. A polyester sewing thread that can be dyed under normal pressure and has excellent performance has not yet been developed.

The prior art is disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Hei 2-1047.
No. 33 proposes a filament composite sewing thread, which is a normal pressure dyeable multifilament thread composed of loops, coils, tangling, etc. And the yarn is cut, the yarn is entangled, or when the yarn is unwound, a fastener effect occurs, which causes a problem such as an abnormal unwinding tension.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a normal pressure dyeable polyester sewing thread which is excellent in sewability, has good compatibility with a fabric, and has a beautiful seam, and a sewn product using the same. It is in.

[0008]

The polyester sewing thread of the present invention has the following structure to solve the above-mentioned problems.

That is, a sewing thread comprising a polyester multifilament yarn and subjected to an upper twist and a lower twist, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn is a normal pressure dyeable type and has the following characteristics. Characteristic polyester sewing thread.

A. The number of fluff is 100 pieces / m or more. B. yield point stress is 4 g / d or less. Straight strength of 3.5 g / d or more The dry heat shrinkage in a free state at 180 ° C. for 20 minutes is 3% or less. The sewn product of the present invention has the following configuration in order to solve the above problems.

[0011] That is, a sewing thread comprising a polyester multifilament yarn and subjected to an upper twist and a lower twist, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn is a normal pressure dyeable type and has the following characteristics. A sewn product characterized by using a characteristic polyester sewing thread.

A. The number of fluff is 100 pieces / m or more. B. yield point stress is 4 g / d or less. Straight strength of 3.5 g / d or more Dry heat shrinkage of 3% or less in a free state at 180 ° C for 20 minutes

[0013]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The polyester sewing thread of the present invention will be described in detail below.

In the present invention, the polyester multifilament yarn refers to a polyester multifilament yarn containing 85 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate repeating units in the molecular chain.

[0015] Such polyester filament yarns include:
Included are filament yarns made of copolymerized polyester and polyester filament yarns produced at high speed. The former preferably contains 6 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 4000 as a copolymer component. Other components may include antioxidants, matting agents, coloring agents, and the like. The latter is a polyester filament yarn spun and wound at a high speed of 5000 m / min or more. This normal-pressure dyeable polyester multifilament yarn realizes high coloring properties comparable to conventional polyester high-temperature dyed products in dyeing properties at normal pressure dyeing, and dyeing starts at around 60 ° C and reaches 98 ° C. Dyeing is highest, but when the dyeing time is long, it is almost saturated in 60 minutes.

The number of twists of the upper and lower twisted sewing threads differs depending on the number of aligned multifilament yarns, that is, denier. For example, in the case of a 70-denier two-ply twisted sewing thread, the lower thread is used. Twist is 100 in S direction
0 to 1300 T / m, 850 to 100 in the Z direction
0 T / m is preferably inserted, and 70 denier 3
In the warp yarn, the lower twist is 900-1200T / in the S direction.
It is preferable that 750 to 900 T / m be inserted in the Z direction for m and the upper twist.

The number of fluffs of the sewing thread is 100 or more per meter. Generally, the larger the number of fluffs of the sewing thread, the smoother the unwinding of the thread from the sewing thread cone and the prevention of slip-through, and the better handling properties, and the high-speed thick sewing and the familiarity between the sewing thread and the fabric are improved. The fluff becomes conspicuous, and particularly when used for filament fabrics and the like, the sewn product tends to be remarkably reduced. On the other hand, if the number of fluffs is less than 100 per meter, it becomes close to a fluff-free filament sewing machine thread, causing slippage from the cone, resulting in poor handling and high speed with increasing needle temperature. There is a tendency for thread breakage to increase in thick fabric sewing. The preferred number of fluffs is 100 or more per meter,
A range not exceeding 1000 is preferred.

In the present invention, the number of fluffs refers to one obtained by measuring a sewing thread having two or three children and five or seven children with a Toray-type fluff counter measuring machine DT-104. 0.35 ± 0.25mm
Is counted per 1 m.

Next, in the present invention, the yield point stress is set to 4 g.
/ D or less. In the S-S curve of the sewing thread, the yield point stress at a point beyond the initial rise indicates that although the initial rise has the rigidity unique to polyester, it shows flexibility by slightly elongating. When the yield point stress of this portion becomes 4 g / d or less,
The polyester filament yarn becomes a flexible sewing thread, the unwinding of the sewing thread becomes smooth, the prevention of slip-through and the handling property are improved, the high-speed thick-ground sewing property is improved, and the sewing thread and fabric are formed. The familiarity with can be improved.

The yield point stress was measured by using an Instron type tensile tester to calculate the S-
It refers to a value obtained by measuring the S curve and calculating the stress at the yield point, and a value measured by the JIS L 1073 method.

In the present invention, the straight strength S
Is 3.5 g / d or more. 3.5 g / d or more is required so that the speed of the sewing machine can be increased and automation can be performed. When it is lower than 3.5 g / d, the occurrence of thread breakage during sewing tends to increase, and there is a problem in that the durability also decreases.

In the present invention, the straight strength is 6 g.
/ D or less.

The straight strength S refers to a value obtained by measuring a cutting strength using an Instron type tensile measuring machine, and a value measured according to JIS L 1073 method.

In the present invention, the dry heat shrinkage in a free state at 180 ° C. for 20 minutes is 3% or less.

The dry heat shrinkage is related to the difference between the shrinkage of the sewn sewing thread after sewing and the shrinkage of the fabric. In general, the dry shrinkage is preferably smaller. For example, when the contraction rate of the sewing thread is higher than that of the fabric, the fabric becomes tight and so-called puckering tends to occur. Specifically, if the shrinkage of the sewing thread is 3% larger than that of the cloth, puckering tends to be conspicuous. In the opposite case, that is, when the shrinkage of the fabric is larger than that of the sewing thread, the sewing thread tends to form a loop and emerge from the fabric.

[0026] The dry heat shrinkage ratio is defined by a method in accordance with JIS L 1073 method.
It means that it is expressed by the ratio of the length before and after the treatment for 20 minutes.

Further, the polyester sewing thread of the present invention comprises:
It is preferable that the multifilament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 2 denier or less of the constituent fibers has fluff, and the multifilament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 3 denier or more of the constituent fiber has no fluff.

The single-filament fineness of the constituent fibers of the multifilament yarn constituting the sewing thread may be uniform or a combination of different finenesses. In the combination of the different finenesses, the single fiber fineness of the constituent fibers is fine, but the single fiber fineness is preferably 2 denier or less, more preferably 1 denier or less, and the single fiber fineness of the constituent fiber with a large single fiber fineness is 2 denier or more. And more preferably a combination of multifilament yarns having a denier of 5 denier or more.

A multifilament yarn having a small single fiber fineness of the constituent fibers makes the surface of the sewing thread soft, and a multifilament yarn having a large single fiber fineness of the constituent fibers can improve the strength of the sewing yarn.

It is preferable that the fluff be present in a multifilament yarn in which the fineness of the single fiber of the constituent fibers is small because the surface of the sewing thread becomes softer. When fluff is present in a multifilament yarn having a large single fiber fineness of the constituent fibers, the strength of the sewing thread tends to decrease.

The sewn products of the present invention include underwear, shirts,
Blouses, sweaters, cardigans, jackets, outerwear, coats, slacks, pants, skirts,
From clothing items such as dresses, sleeping clothing, sports clothing, uniforms, and baby clothing, handkerchiefs, scarves,
Futons and duvet covers, furoshiki, curtains, ties,
This refers to all household sewing products such as sheets. Further, the polyester sewing thread of the present invention can be used not only for final textile products but also for sewing members at intermediate stages.

Although it can be used for most textile products, it is preferably used for underwear, shirts and blouses.

The polyester sewing thread of the present invention is preferably used for dyeing products.

For example, in the case of a bra in underwear,
Bras are sewn using fabrics, laces, straps, tapes, pads, interlining, etc.In order to match them with the same color, it is extremely difficult to dye the parts individually, Yes, costs will rise. However, when the product is sewn as a product and then dyed with the product, color matching is not required, and normal pressure dispersion dyeing is completed at once, which is advantageous in cost. This is the advantage of product dyeing. The normal pressure dyeable polyester sewing thread made of copolymer polyester is more likely to be dyed darker than the normal pressure dyeable polyester sewing thread made of high speed yarn. It is preferably used.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view schematically showing an example of a polyester sewing thread according to the present invention. Fluffy part a,
The sewing machine thread was shown. FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram schematically illustrating an example of a method for producing the polyester sewing thread of the present invention.

A typical method for producing the polyester sewing thread of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.
A lower twist is added to the filament yarns 1, 2, and 3 wound around the H-shaped bobbin between the feed rollers 4, 5, and 6, and three lower twist yarns are aligned by the guide 7 and the lower yarn is aligned with the delivery roller 9. The yarn-yarn scraping under high tension is subjected to fluffing by the fluff generating roller 8 and wound up from the delivery roller 9 to the winding cheese 10, whereby a multi-filament yarn having three fluffs can be manufactured. .

Next, it is preferable to add an upper twist to the obtained multifilament yarn having fluff in the aligned state.
The setting conditions for the number of twists to be added are, for example, when a 75-denier filament yarn is used, 800
Add S twist of ~ 1200T / m, and then add 3 children and 2
It is preferable to add about 50 to 80% of the number of twists of the lower twist in the Z direction as the upper twist in order to make a twist or seven twists. Furthermore, in order to apply a low shrinkage processing to the sewing thread, dry heat setting is performed at a temperature of 150 to 200 ° C. and a tension rate of −5 to + 5%, and a final oil agent finish processing is performed to obtain a normal pressure dispersible dyeing type. Polyester sewing threads can be manufactured.

The polyester sewing thread thus manufactured can have the above-mentioned properties, and the sewing thread can be suitably used for sewing processing for dyeing products.

[0039]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to embodiments.

Example 1 A 75-denier, 36-filament polyester multifilament yarn made of a normal pressure dyeable polyester made of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 7.5% by weight of polyethylene glycol (molecular weight: 1,000) was used as a lower twist and 975 T in the S direction. / M was added to form a lower warp yarn. While the three yarns were being aligned, the yarn was fuzzed by yarn-yarn rubbing under a high tension of -7%, and wound up at a speed of 10 m / min.

The upper warp in the Z direction of 750 T / m is added to the lower warp yarns of the three yarns in the aligned state provided with fluff to obtain 3
It was a child twisted yarn. Dry heat 18 to reduce residual shrinkage
The heat setting was performed at 0 ° C. and a tension rate of 3%. Oil finishing treatment was performed to produce polyester sewing threads for dyeing products.

Using the obtained sewing thread, a brassier with a white dough was produced.

In order to perform product dyeing, disperse dyeable dyes (Resoli, manufactured by Bayer Kasei KK) at normal pressure of 98 ° C.
n Blue FBL), and the brassier was set in a mold so as to fix the form of the obtained brassiere.

The properties of the polyester sewing thread used for dyeing the product are shown in Table 1. FIG. 3 shows an SS curve of this polyester sewing thread.

This is a sewing test of the obtained sewing thread using an industrial lockstitch sewing machine (singer type 281) under the following conditions.

Needle # 11 Number of rotations 5500 sp · m Stitch 15 needles / 3 cm In addition, 100% cotton # 4000 was used as a fabric.

Points: Comparative points when using a cotton sewing thread as 100 points.

Comparative Example 1 As a comparative polyester filament, 975 T / m was added in the S direction to a 75-denier 36 filament yarn of the original yarn used for a normal filament sewing thread in the S direction to obtain a lower twist yarn. While pulling, under a high tension of -8%, fuzzing by yarn-yarn scraping is performed.
The cheese was rolled up at a speed of 0 m / min.

The upper twist of 750 T / m in the Z direction is added to the lower warp yarns of the three yarns in the aligned state provided with the fluff, and
It was a child twisted yarn. Dry heat 18 to reduce residual shrinkage
The heat setting was performed at 0 ° C. and a tension rate of 3%. Oil finishing treatment was performed to produce a polyester sewing thread.

The three lower aligned warp yarns are placed in the Z direction 75
An upper twist of 0 T / m was added to obtain a three-ply twisted yarn. In order to reduce the residual shrinkage, heat setting was performed at a dry heat of 180 ° C. and a tension of 3%. Oil finishing treatment was performed to produce a polyester sewing thread.

Using the sewing thread, a brassier with a white dough was produced.

In order to carry out product dyeing, dyeing was carried out using a dispersible dye (Resolin Blue FBL) at a normal pressure of 98 ° C.

As a result, the fabric was stained with blue, but the portion of the sewing thread was hardly dyed, and the yield point stress was as high as 5 g / d or more. The sewn part had a firmer texture than the unsewn part, and the product as a whole lacked softness. Also, when viewed as a product, it is naturally a defective product, so that it cannot be marketed.

Table 1 shows the properties of the polyester sewing thread used for product dyeing.

Examples 2 and 3 Polyurethane terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 7.5% by weight of polyethylene glycol (molecular weight: 1000), a polyester multifilament made of a normal pressure dyeable polyester and having a denier of 75 denier and 36 filaments was used as a lower twist in the S direction. Was added to 975 T / m to obtain a lower-twisted yarn, and while the three yarns were aligned, the overfeed ratio under high tension was changed, and the effect of the number of fluffs was compared. The same manufacturing conditions as in Example 1 were used for the subsequent manufacturing conditions. The properties of the polyester sewing thread used for dyeing the product are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Examples 2 to 4 Polyurethane terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 7.5% by weight of polyethylene glycol (molecular weight: 1000), a polyester multifilament made of a normal pressure dyeable polyester and having a denier of 75 denier and a 36 filament yarn was used as a lower twist in the S direction. Was added to 975 T / m to obtain a lower-twisted yarn, and while the three yarns were aligned, the overfeed ratio under high tension was changed, and the effect of the number of fluffs was compared. The same manufacturing conditions as in Example 1 were used for the subsequent manufacturing conditions.

In Comparative Example 2, the straight strength was too low and thread breakage during sewing was frequent. In Comparative Example 3, the overfeed ratio was too low and the degree of tension was too high, and thread breakage occurred during yarn processing. Was. In Comparative Example 4, the overfeed rate was too high, the degree of tension was low, the generation of fluff was reduced to 100 pieces / m or less, and the extremely low sewability with a high-speed automatic sewing property score of 20 or less in the sewing processing test. Met.

Table 1 shows the properties of the polyester sewing thread used for product dyeing.

Example 4 Regarding the denier constitution of a polyester multifilament composed of a normal pressure dyeable polyester composed of polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 7.5% by weight of polyethylene glycol (molecular weight: 1000), the thicker one having a difference in denier was used as an example. Different denier multifilament yarn composed of 36 denier 6 filament yarn for single fiber filament yarn and 1 denier 36 filament yarn for a total of 72 denier 42 filament yarn for thinner single fiber filament yarn is used. 975T in direction
/ M was added to form a lower warp yarn. While the three yarns were being aligned, the yarn was fuzz-processed by yarn-yarn rubbing under a high tension of -6% and wound up at a speed of 10 m / min.

The upper twist of 750 T / m in the Z direction is added to the lower warp yarns of the three yarns in the aligned state provided with the fluff to obtain 3
It was a child twisted yarn. Dry heat 18 to reduce residual shrinkage
The heat setting was performed at 0 ° C. and a tension rate of 3%. Oil finishing treatment was performed to produce polyester sewing threads for dyeing products.

Table 1 shows the properties of the polyester sewing thread used for product dyeing.

When the sewing thread was decomposed, the multifilament yarn 36 denier 6 filament yarn having a large single fiber fineness of the constituent fibers was not provided with fluff.
Multifilament yarn 1 with fineness of monofilament of constituent fiber
Fluff was concentrated on the denier 36 filament yarn.

Example 5 Polyethylene terephthalate was spun at 5,000 m / min at a high speed to obtain a normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn (75 denier, 36 filaments). , This thread 3
Under the high tension of -8%, fuzzing by yarn-yarn scraping was performed while the main pulling-up was performed, and the cheese was wound up at a speed of 10 m / min.

In the aligned state with the fluff,
An upper warp of 750 T / m in the Z direction was added to the lower warp of the yarn to obtain a three-ply warp yarn.

To reduce the residual shrinkage, dry heat 180 ° C.
The heat setting was performed at a strain rate of 3%. Further, an oil agent finishing treatment was performed to produce a normal pressure dyeable polyester sewing thread.

The obtained sewing thread was used to sew a bra with a white cloth, and a bra with a white cloth was manufactured. In order to perform product dyeing, disperse dyeable dyes (Resolin manufactured by Bayer Kasei KK) at normal pressure of 98 ° C.
In order to fix the shape of the obtained brassiere, the brassiere was fitted into a mold and finished and set.

Table 1 shows the properties of the polyester sewing thread used for product dyeing. The sewing test conditions were the same as in Example 1.
Was performed in the same manner as described above.

[0068]

[Table 1]

[0069]

According to the polyester sewing thread of the present invention, the appearance and quality of the sewn product are hardly impaired.
The following effects can be obtained.

A. Since it can be dyed at normal pressure and room temperature, the texture is not damaged without damaging the fabric.

B. Since product dyeing can be performed, the process is streamlined and the cost is greatly reduced.

C. Since it is possible to dye other than the disperse dye, the degree of freedom in selecting the dye is wide, and color variations can be easily obtained.

D. Less thread breakage during high-speed automatic sewing.

E. Less puckering when washing or heat drying.

F. Less thread breakage during high-speed heavy sewing.

G. The product dyed using the sewing thread has a beautiful seam.

H. There is no color difference between the sewing thread and the fabric.

I. Seams are soft.

J. The familiarity between the sewing thread and the fabric is good.

K. The short and many fluffs prevent the yarn from being unwound from the cone.

L. Since the fluff component yarn and the strong component yarn can be designed independently, a sewing thread suitable for the purpose of the product can be selected.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view schematically showing an example of a polyester sewing thread of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram schematically illustrating an example of a method for producing a polyester sewing thread of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is an example of SS of the polyester sewing thread of the present invention.
It is a curve.

[Explanation of symbols]

 A: Fluff section B: Sewing thread 1: Multifilament thread 2: Multifilament thread 3: Multifilament thread 4: Feed roller 5: Feed roller 6: Feed roller 7: Guide 8: Fluff processing roller 9: Delivery roller 10: Winding cheese c: Polyester sewing thread of the present invention d: Conventional polyester sewing thread P1: Yield point of polyester sewing thread of the present invention P2: Yield point of conventional polyester sewing thread

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A sewing machine yarn comprising a polyester multifilament yarn which has been subjected to an upper twist and a lower twist, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn is a normal pressure dyeable type and has the following characteristics. Characterized polyester sewing thread. A. The number of fluff is 100 pieces / m or more. B. yield point stress is 4 g / d or less. Straight strength of 3.5 g / d or more Dry heat shrinkage of 3% or less in a free state at 180 ° C for 20 minutes 2. A multifilament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 2 denier or less and a multifilament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 3 denier or more, wherein the single fiber fineness of the constituent fiber is 2 denier. The polyester sewing thread according to claim 1, wherein the following multifilament yarn has fluff, and the multifilament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 3 denier or more does not have fluff. 3. A sewn article using the polyester sewing thread according to claim 1 or 2.