JP2011127231A - Cylindrical circular knitted fabric - Google Patents
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- JP2011127231A JP2011127231A JP2009284122A JP2009284122A JP2011127231A JP 2011127231 A JP2011127231 A JP 2011127231A JP 2009284122 A JP2009284122 A JP 2009284122A JP 2009284122 A JP2009284122 A JP 2009284122A JP 2011127231 A JP2011127231 A JP 2011127231A
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Abstract
Description
本発明は、弾性糸が含有された筒状丸編地の端部を任意な形状に裁断し、裁断した状態のままで製品化が可能である、ソフトな風合いと良好な伸縮性を有する筒状の丸編地に関する。 The present invention is a cylinder having a soft texture and good stretchability, which can be commercialized while cutting the end of a cylindrical circular knitted fabric containing elastic yarn into an arbitrary shape. Related to circular knitted fabric.
従来、弾性糸を含有する丸編地を任意な形状に裁断し、裁断部を縫製始末することなく裁断したままの状態で製品化が可能な、いわゆるフリーカットが可能な編地、製品が市販されている。
特に、ショーツ、ガードル、シャツ等のインナーでは、スカート等のアウターにインナーの裁断部の縫製始末部が際立って見えることが無く、着用時の外観の審美性に優れる製品として好評であり、このフリーカットが可能なように、裁断部のホツレやカールが生じない弾性糸や編地の提案がなされている。
例えば、非熱融着弾性糸を含有する丸編地を編成後、筒状になっている編地の耳部を裁断して開反し、190℃前後の乾熱処理により弾性糸を固定して、ホツレやカールを防止する方法や、低融点で熱融着可能な熱融着弾性糸を交編した編地を、190℃前後の乾熱や120℃前後の湿熱による熱処理することにより、熱融着弾性繊維相互を熱融着させ、ホツレやカールの発生を防止する方法が知られている。
Conventionally, knitted fabrics and products that allow so-called free cutting are commercially available, which can be cut into circular knitted fabrics containing elastic yarns into arbitrary shapes, and can be commercialized with the cut parts cut without starting sewing. Has been.
Especially for inners such as shorts, girdles, shirts, etc., it is popular as a product with excellent aesthetics of the appearance when worn, without the sewed outer part of the skirt appearing prominently. Proposals have been made for elastic yarns and knitted fabrics that do not cause fraying or curling of the cut portion so that cutting is possible.
For example, after knitting a circular knitted fabric containing a non-heat-sealed elastic yarn, the ear portion of the tubular knitted fabric is cut and opened, and the elastic yarn is fixed by dry heat treatment around 190 ° C., Thermal fusion can be achieved by preventing fraying and curling, and heat-treating a knitted fabric knitted with a heat-fusion elastic yarn that can be heat-fused at a low melting point with dry heat at around 190 ° C or wet heat at around 120 ° C. There is known a method for preventing the occurrence of fraying and curling by heat-bonding the elastic fibers.
一方、丸編地を開反せず、筒状の形状のままで衣料等に適用することも行われており、このような編地において、熱融着弾性糸とそれ以外の糸をプレーティング編により編みたて、ヒートセット加工することによって、開口部となる裁断部を縫製始末せず、切りっぱなしで衣料とすることが提案されている(例えば、以下の特許文献1参照)。
しかし、このような筒状編地からなる衣料製品において、裁断部を上述のフリーカット化すると、伸縮性や風合いに悪影響を与えることがある。これは、衣料製品を得るために、筒状丸編地のまま型枠に入れて熱セット処理することが必要であるが、特に製品の幅が30〜50cm程度の筒状丸編地を熱セット処理するときに、非熱融着弾性糸を交編した丸編地では、筒状編地の耳部に型枠の跡が残ったり、十分に弾性糸を固定する熱効果が得られなかったりして、伸縮性や風合いは良好であっても実質的にフリーカット可能な編地は得られない。
On the other hand, a circular knitted fabric is not opened, and it is also applied to clothing and the like in a cylindrical shape. In such a knitted fabric, a heat-sealed elastic yarn and other yarns are plated. It has been proposed that the cut portion that becomes the opening portion is not sewed and made into a garment without being cut by heat set processing (see, for example, Patent Document 1 below).
However, in a clothing product made of such a tubular knitted fabric, if the cut portion is made free-cut as described above, the stretchability and texture may be adversely affected. In order to obtain a clothing product, it is necessary to place the circular circular knitted fabric in a formwork and heat set it. Especially, the circular circular knitted fabric having a product width of about 30 to 50 cm is heated. In the case of circular knitted fabric knitted with non-heat-bonded elastic yarn during the setting process, traces of the formwork remain at the ears of the tubular knitted fabric, or the thermal effect of sufficiently fixing the elastic yarn cannot be obtained. In other words, a knitted fabric that is substantially free-cut can not be obtained even if the stretchability and texture are good.
また、低融点の熱融着弾性糸を交編した筒状丸編地では、120℃前後の湿熱処理で弾性糸が融着するため、型枠の跡が残ったりすることがなく、弾性糸相互が融着してホツレやカールのない丸編地が得られるものの、弾性糸相互、および、ナイロンやポリエステル等の表糸である非弾性糸とも融着することがあり、伸縮性が阻害されて伸び難く、硬い風合いの丸編地となる。 In addition, in a cylindrical circular knitted fabric knitted with a low-melting-point heat-sealing elastic yarn, the elastic yarn is fused by a wet heat treatment at around 120 ° C., so that there is no trace of the formwork and the elastic yarn Although a circular knitted fabric with no fraying or curling can be obtained by fusing each other, elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns such as nylon and polyester can be fused, which inhibits stretchability. It is hard to stretch and becomes a circular knitted fabric with a hard texture.
以下の特許文献2には、緯編地において、熱融着ポリウレタン弾性繊維を含む複合糸と非弾性繊維をプレーティング編みし、熱融着ポリウレタン弾性繊維相互を熱融着させた緯編地が開示され、該熱融着ポリウレタン弾性繊維を含む複合糸を1コース以上おきに編みこんで、他のコースに非熱融着ポリウレタン弾性繊維を編み込むことも開示されているが、この場合、全コースに熱融着ポリウレタン弾性繊維を編みこみ、熱融着により組織固定化された編地に比べ、ほつれやカールの抑制性は劣る傾向にあり、特に、筒状編地のまま型枠に入れて熱セット処理する場合に、目的のフリーカット性能を得ることが困難である。
更に、特許文献3には、熱融着性は有さないが、ヒートセット加工により熱固着性を発現してほつれ止め効果を発現できる熱固着性ポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維が開示されており、熱融着弾性糸に比べ、ヒートセット加工後でも優れた伸縮性、伸長回復性を保持できるという特徴を有するが、糸自体が融着するものではないために、特に他の繊維と複合されて編成された筒状編地のまま型枠に入れて熱セット処理するような場合に、目的のフリーカット性能を得るための複合条件が制約を受けることがある。
Further,
このように、弾性糸を含有し、伸縮性が良好で、ソフトな風合いを有する、フリーカットが可能な、裁断部が裁断されたままで製品化が可能な筒状丸編地、および該丸編地からなる、縫製なしに筒状部が形成され、少なくとも一部の裁断端が裁断されたままで形成される衣料等の製品は、現在見当たらない。 Thus, a cylindrical circular knitted fabric that contains elastic yarn, has good stretchability, has a soft texture, can be freely cut, and can be commercialized with the cut portion cut, and the circular knitted fabric There are currently no products of clothing or the like made of the ground, in which a cylindrical portion is formed without sewing, and at least a part of the cut end is cut.
本発明が解決しようとする課題は、弾性糸を含有する編地の端部を任意な形状に裁断し、裁断した状態のままで製品化が可能で、ソフトな風合いと良好な伸縮性を有する筒状丸編地を提供することである。 The problem to be solved by the present invention is that the end of a knitted fabric containing elastic yarn is cut into an arbitrary shape, and can be commercialized with the cut state, and has a soft texture and good stretchability. It is to provide a cylindrical circular knitted fabric.
本発明者は、上記課題を解決すべく、弾性糸と熱処理条件について、着用耐久テストなどの実験を重ね、鋭意検討した結果、本発明を完成するに至った。
すなわち、本発明は以下の通りのものである。
[1]裁断部が裁断されたままで製品化が可能な、弾性糸が含有された筒状丸編地であって、少なくとも該裁断部を構成する編地組織は、低融点の熱融着弾性糸と、非熱融着弾性糸とが、1本交互に天竺組織で編成されていることを特徴とする前記筒状丸編地。
In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor has repeatedly conducted experiments such as a wear durability test on the elastic yarn and the heat treatment condition, and as a result of intensive studies, the present invention has been completed.
That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] A cylindrical circular knitted fabric containing an elastic yarn that can be commercialized with the cut portion being cut, and at least the knitted fabric structure constituting the cut portion has a low melting point heat fusion elasticity The cylindrical circular knitted fabric, wherein the yarn and the non-heat-sealing elastic yarn are alternately knitted in a tentacle structure.
[2]前記[1]に記載の筒状丸編地から構成された開反されていない筒状の部位を有する衣料製品であって、該部位の端部が任意な形状に裁断され、該裁断端の少なくとも一部が、裁断された状態のままである前記衣料製品。 [2] A clothing product having an unopened cylindrical portion made of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to [1], wherein an end of the portion is cut into an arbitrary shape, The apparel product wherein at least a portion of the cut ends remain cut.
本発明に係る筒状の丸編地を使用することにより、筒状の丸編地端部を裁断したままの状態で製品化が可能で、かつ、伸縮性が良好でソフトな風合いを有し、洗濯耐久性に優れ、着用時に適度な締め付け感で着心地の良い製品を得ることができる。 By using the cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention, it is possible to produce a product while cutting the end of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric, and it has a soft texture with good stretchability. It is possible to obtain a product that is excellent in washing durability and is comfortable to wear with an appropriate tightening feeling when worn.
以下、本発明について詳細に説明する。
本発明に係る筒状丸編地とは、編地編成後、筒状丸編地の耳部を裁断して開反することなく染色加工を行い、筒状のまま製品化することができる編地をいう。さらに、本発明に係る筒状丸編地は、該筒状丸編地を、衣類のトップス、あるいはボトムス等の必要長で裁断し、かつ、筒状丸編地の上端、下端のどちらか一方、あるいは、両端の裁断部を所望の形状に裁断したままで製品化される筒状丸編である。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention is a knitted fabric that can be commercialized as it is after it is knitted and dyed without cutting off the ears of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric. Say. Furthermore, the cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention is obtained by cutting the cylindrical circular knitted fabric with a necessary length such as tops or bottoms of clothing, and either the upper end or the lower end of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric. Alternatively, it is a cylindrical circular knitting that is commercialized with the cut portions at both ends cut into a desired shape.
本発明に係る筒状丸編地は、弾性糸を含有していることを特徴とするが、弾性糸は任意な形状で裁断する裁断部近傍は全コース交編されている必要があり、裁断部近傍以外では弾性糸は必ずしも全コース交編されている必要は無く、1〜数コース毎に弾性糸が交編されていないコースが存在してもよい。しかし、伸縮性やフィット感より、弾性糸は全コースに交編されているか、1コース毎に交編されている状態が好ましい。 The cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention is characterized in that it contains an elastic yarn, but the elastic yarn needs to be knitted in all courses in the vicinity of the cutting portion where the elastic yarn is cut in an arbitrary shape. The elastic yarn does not necessarily need to be knitted in all courses except in the vicinity of the portion, and there may be a course in which the elastic yarn is not knitted every one to several courses. However, the elastic yarn is preferably knitted on all courses or knitted on a course-by-course basis because of stretchability and fit.
本発明に係る筒状丸編地の、弾性糸が含有され、任意な形状で裁断される裁断部を構成する編地組織は、天竺組織とする。
天竺以外の組織、例えばタック組織を使用する鹿の子編等の変化組織では、風合いが硬くなり、伸縮性も低下するため、不適である。また、任意な形状で裁断する裁断部以外の編組織については必ずしも天竺である必要は無く、タック組織の使用やウエルト組織の使用、これら両組織の組み合わせ使用も可能で、任意な編組織で、任意な伸縮性、フィット感の編地製造が可能である。
The knitted fabric structure of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention, which constitutes a cutting portion that contains elastic yarn and is cut in an arbitrary shape, is a tentacle structure.
A structure other than the tengu, for example, a change structure such as a knitting knitting using a tuck structure, is not suitable because the texture becomes hard and the stretchability is lowered. In addition, the knitting structure other than the cutting part to be cut in an arbitrary shape does not necessarily need to be a tengu, the use of a tack structure or the use of a welt structure, and the combined use of these two structures are possible. It is possible to produce a knitted fabric with any elasticity and fit.
本発明では、任意な形状で裁断する裁断部に含有される弾性糸が、熱融着弾性糸と非熱溶融弾性糸との組み合わせであることを特徴とする。
熱融着弾性糸とは、本願の筒状丸編地の状態で、乾熱150℃以上220℃以下で1分間の熱処理、または、湿熱100℃以上130℃以下で30秒間の熱処理で、溶融し弾性糸相互が融着するような弾性糸で、例えば、特許文献2に示される、ポリオール及びジイソシアネートを反応させて得られる両末端イソシアネート基プレポリマーと、ポリオール、ジイソシアネート及び低分子量ジオールを反応させて得られる両末端水酸基プレポリマーとから得られるポリマーを溶融紡糸して得られる弾性糸が挙げられる。
In the present invention, the elastic yarn contained in the cutting portion that is cut into an arbitrary shape is a combination of a heat-fusion elastic yarn and a non-heat-melting elastic yarn.
The heat fusing elastic yarn is the state of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric of the present application, and is melted by heat treatment for 1 minute at a dry heat of 150 ° C. or higher and 220 ° C. or heat treatment for 30 seconds at a wet heat of 100 ° C. or higher and 130 ° C. or lower. An elastic yarn in which the elastic yarns are fused to each other. For example, as shown in
また、非熱融着弾性糸とは、上述の熱融着弾性糸が溶融する熱処理条件では弾性糸相互が融着しない弾性糸であり、ポリウレタン系、ポリエーテルエステル系の弾性糸で、例えばポリウレタン系弾性糸では、乾式紡糸又は溶融紡糸したものが使用でき、ポリマーや紡糸方法は特に限定されない。弾性糸の破断伸度は400%〜1000%程度のもので、かつ、伸縮性に優れ、染色加工時のプレセット工程の通常処理温度180℃近辺で伸縮性を損なわないことが好ましい。また、非熱融着弾性糸として、特殊ポリマーや粉体添加により、高セット性、抗菌性、吸湿、吸水性等の機能性を付与した弾性糸も使用可能である。 The non-heat-bonded elastic yarn is an elastic yarn in which the elastic yarns are not fused with each other under the heat treatment conditions in which the above-mentioned heat-fused elastic yarn is melted. As the elastic yarn, dry spinning or melt spinning can be used, and the polymer and the spinning method are not particularly limited. It is preferable that the elastic yarn has a breaking elongation of about 400% to 1000%, is excellent in stretchability, and does not impair the stretchability around a normal processing temperature of 180 ° C. in the presetting process during dyeing. Further, as the non-heat-bonded elastic yarn, an elastic yarn imparted with functions such as high setting property, antibacterial property, moisture absorption and water absorption by adding a special polymer or powder can be used.
非熱融着弾性糸として、上述の熱処理条件では溶融しないが、熱固着によってほつれ防止性能を発現できるポリウレタン弾性糸を用いることができる。具体的には、例えば、特許文献3に記載された、熱機械分析(TMA)による圧縮変形開始温度が150℃以上180℃以下であり、180℃150%伸長での熱切断秒数が30秒以上である、ポリウレタン系弾性糸が挙げられる。このような性能の糸であれば、上述の熱処理条件では溶融しないけれども、熱固着性能を有するため、裁断部のほつれ防止に有効である上に、固着部の伸縮性、風合い低下を抑制することができるため、好ましい。
As the non-heat-bonding elastic yarn, a polyurethane elastic yarn that does not melt under the above-described heat treatment conditions but can exhibit fraying prevention performance by heat fixation can be used. Specifically, for example, the compression deformation start temperature by thermomechanical analysis (TMA) described in
このような熱固着性弾性糸としては、例えば、ポリウレタン化合物を5〜40重量%含有するポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維が挙げられ、特に、該ポリウレタン化合物として硬度が80A以下の架橋型ポリウレタンを用いることで、好適に得ることができる。また、該ポリウレタンウレアが、炭素数が2〜10の異なったアルキレンエーテルからなる共重合ポリアルキレンエーテルジオールを原料として得られたものは好ましい。 Examples of such heat-adhesive elastic yarns include polyurethane urea elastic fibers containing 5 to 40% by weight of a polyurethane compound, and in particular, by using a crosslinked polyurethane having a hardness of 80 A or less as the polyurethane compound, It can be suitably obtained. In addition, it is preferable that the polyurethane urea is obtained from a copolymerized polyalkylene ether diol composed of different alkylene ethers having 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
これらの熱融着弾性糸、及び、非熱融着弾性糸の繊度としては、10〜160dt(デシテックス、以下同じ記号を使用する)程度であることができ、特に、40〜120dt程度の弾性繊維の使用が好ましい。 The fineness of these heat-sealing elastic yarns and non-heat-sealing elastic yarns can be about 10 to 160 dt (decitex, hereinafter using the same symbols), and in particular, elastic fibers of about 40 to 120 dt. Is preferred.
本発明において、非弾性糸とは、ポリエステル、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート等のポリエステル系繊維、ポリアミド系繊維等の合成繊維をいい、これらのブライト糸、セミダル糸、フルダル糸等を任意に使用することができ、繊維の断面形状も丸型、楕円型、W型、繭型、中空糸等任意な断面形状の繊維の使用が可能で有り、さらに、繊維の形態についても特に限定されず、原糸、仮撚等の捲縮加工糸が使用でき、特に、捲縮加工糸の使用が好ましい。さらに、該合成繊維の太さとしては、20〜160dt程度であることができ、編地の破裂強度や厚み感から、30〜110dt程度の合成繊維の使用が好ましい。 In the present invention, the inelastic yarn refers to polyester fibers such as polyester and polytrimethylene terephthalate, and synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, and these bright yarns, semi-dal yarns, full dull yarns, etc. may be used arbitrarily. It is possible to use a fiber having an arbitrary cross-sectional shape such as a round shape, an elliptical shape, a W-shape, a saddle shape, and a hollow fiber, and the shape of the fiber is not particularly limited. A crimped yarn such as false twist can be used, and the use of a crimped yarn is particularly preferable. Furthermore, the thickness of the synthetic fiber can be about 20 to 160 dt, and it is preferable to use a synthetic fiber of about 30 to 110 dt in view of the bursting strength and thickness of the knitted fabric.
本発明においては、前記した熱融着弾性糸と、非熱融着弾性糸とを効果的に組み合わせることにより、裁断面のホツレやカール発生が無く、しかも伸縮性に優れ、ソフトな風合いの編地を得ることができる。
すなわち、天竺組織において、熱融着弾性糸と非熱融着弾性糸とを1本交互に編成して熱融着弾性糸が相互に融着しないように配置することにより、熱融着弾性糸のみで編地を形成した場合の欠点である、風合い硬化と伸縮性不良を格段に低減することが可能になり、本発明の課題である、裁断部のホツレやカールの発生が無く、伸縮性に優れ、ソフトな風合いの編地製造が可能となる。
In the present invention, by effectively combining the above-mentioned heat-sealing elastic yarn and non-heat-sealing elastic yarn, there is no occurrence of fraying or curling of the cut surface, and excellent elasticity and soft texture. You can get the ground.
That is, in a tentacle structure, by thermally knitting one heat fusion elastic yarn and one non-heat fusion elastic yarn so that the heat fusion elastic yarns are not fused to each other, a heat fusion elastic yarn is obtained. It is possible to remarkably reduce texture hardening and stretch failure, which are disadvantages when forming a knitted fabric alone, and there is no occurrence of fraying or curling of the cut portion, which is a problem of the present invention, and stretchability Excellent and soft texture can be produced.
このとき、風合いや伸縮性の観点から、熱融着弾性糸の繊度と、非熱融着弾性糸の繊度比は、0.5〜1.5であることが好ましく、より好ましくは0.6〜1.4である。
上記繊度比は以下の式:
繊度比=非熱融着弾性糸の繊度(dt)/熱融着弾性糸の繊度(dt)
により求める。
At this time, the fineness ratio of the heat fusion elastic yarn and the non-heat fusion elastic yarn is preferably 0.5 to 1.5, more preferably 0.6 from the viewpoint of texture and stretchability. ~ 1.4.
The fineness ratio is given by the following formula:
Fineness ratio = fineness of non-heat-bonded elastic yarn (dt) / fineness of heat-bonded elastic yarn (dt)
Ask for.
弾性糸の編成方法については特に限定はないが、非弾性糸と組み合わせて編成されることが好ましい。弾性糸と非弾性糸の組み合わせ方法についても特に限定はなく、非弾性糸と弾性糸とを同時に編成するプレーティングにより編成する方法、弾性糸に非弾性糸を被覆した被覆弾性糸を編成する方法、非弾性糸に被覆弾性糸をプレーティグにより編成する方法等の任意の方法を使用することができ。風合の点から、非弾性糸と弾性糸をプレーティングにより同時に編成することが好ましく、弾性糸は、非弾性糸によって被覆された被覆弾性糸であることが好ましい。弾性糸に非弾性糸を被覆する方法も特に限定はなく、カバーリング法、撚糸法、エアー交絡法等により被覆弾性糸の製造が可能である。 The method for knitting the elastic yarn is not particularly limited, but it is preferable that the elastic yarn is knitted in combination with the non-elastic yarn. There is no particular limitation on the combination method of the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn. The method of knitting by plating that knitted the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn at the same time, the method of knitting the coated elastic yarn in which the elastic yarn is coated with the inelastic yarn Any method such as a method of knitting a coated elastic yarn to a non-elastic yarn by plating can be used. From the viewpoint of feeling, it is preferable that the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn are knitted simultaneously by plating, and the elastic yarn is preferably a covered elastic yarn covered with the inelastic yarn. A method for coating the elastic yarn with the non-elastic yarn is not particularly limited, and the coated elastic yarn can be manufactured by a covering method, a twisting yarn method, an air entanglement method, or the like.
尚、被覆弾性糸において、熱融着弾性糸を非弾性糸で完全に被覆した被覆弾性糸と、非熱融着弾性糸を非弾性糸で完全に被覆した被覆弾性糸とを1本交互に編成した場合、編地編成後に熱処理して熱融着弾性糸を融着さても弾性糸相互が接触する部分が無いため、裁断部のホツレが発生する懸念がある。そのため、編地編成後の被覆弾性糸は、所々非弾性糸の隙間から弾性糸が露出していることが好ましく、例えば、被覆弾性糸を製造する際、非弾性糸の繊度を33dt以下とする、また、撚糸数を600回/m以下にする等の条件設定によって適宜弾性糸の露出状態を調節することもできる。この露出した熱融着弾性糸と非熱融着弾性糸が接触し、生機編成後の熱処理により熱融着弾性糸と非熱融着弾性糸とを接着させることにより、ホツレやカールの発生を防止することが可能となる。 It should be noted that, in the coated elastic yarn, one coated elastic yarn in which the heat-sealed elastic yarn is completely covered with the non-elastic yarn and one coated elastic yarn in which the non-heat-bonded elastic yarn is completely covered with the non-elastic yarn are alternately arranged. In the case of knitting, there is a concern that the cut portion may be frayed because there is no portion where the elastic yarns are in contact with each other even if the heat fusion elastic yarn is fused by heat treatment after knitting of the knitted fabric. Therefore, it is preferable that the elastic yarn is exposed from the gap between the non-elastic yarns after the knitting of the knitted fabric. For example, when the coated elastic yarn is manufactured, the fineness of the non-elastic yarn is 33 dt or less. Further, the exposed state of the elastic yarn can be appropriately adjusted by setting conditions such as setting the number of twisted yarns to 600 times / m or less. The exposed heat-bonded elastic yarn and non-heat-bonded elastic yarn are in contact with each other, and the heat-bonded elastic yarn and non-heat-bonded elastic yarn are bonded by heat treatment after knitting of the machine, thereby preventing fraying and curling. It becomes possible to prevent.
本発明に係る筒状丸編地は、裁断部が裁断されたままで衣料製品に製品化することができる。裁断部は任意な形状が可能で、例えば、ランニング形状のトップスの場合、筒状丸編地の裾部分に当たる下端部をほぼ直線上に裁断し、上端の衿ぐり、袖ぐりは、その形状に沿って裁断したままで製品化される場合や、下端部の裾のみを裁断し、上端の衿ぐり、袖ぐりは、折り返して始末する方法や、別布でパイピング始末する方法等もある。無論、裾部の裁断形状もほぼ直線状のみでなく、波々状や、ギザギザ状など、任意な形状であることができる。尚、筒状丸編地を任意な形状に裁断する時機としては、染色、仕上げセットを行ってから裁断する方が、染色や、仕上げセット等による寸法変化が生じることが無いので好ましい。 The cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention can be commercialized into a clothing product with the cut portion being cut. The cutting part can be of any shape, for example, in the case of running tops, the lower end corresponding to the bottom of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric is cut almost linearly, and the neckline at the upper end and the armhole are along the shape. There are a case where the product is manufactured with cutting, a method in which only the bottom hem is cut and the upper end of the neck and the armhole are folded back and the piping is finished with a separate cloth. Of course, the cutting shape of the skirt portion is not limited to a substantially linear shape, but can be an arbitrary shape such as a wave shape or a jagged shape. In addition, it is preferable to cut the cylindrical circular knitted fabric into an arbitrary shape after performing dyeing and finishing set because dimensional change due to dyeing or finishing set does not occur.
本発明に係る筒状丸編地を製造する編機については、編機の釜径が10〜20インチ程度の丸編機で、同一の給糸口において編み糸を任意に切替ることができるジャカード丸編機の使用が好ましく、製品巾に応じて編機釜径を選択する。編機のゲージについては、任意な形状で裁断して、そのまま製品とすることが可能となるため、ファインゲージ編機の使用が適しており、26〜40ゲージ程度の編機の使用が好ましい。特に28〜36ゲージの編機の使用は、任意な形状で裁断してそのまま製品とすることが可能で、さらに、伸縮性も良好な製品が得られるため、好ましい。また、編地密度も任意であるが、製品とした際に任意な形状に裁断した部分の編地の解れが無く、かつ、ソフトな製品となるよう、なるべく緻密な密度設定が好ましい。 The knitting machine for producing the cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention is a circular knitting machine having a knitting machine having a hook diameter of about 10 to 20 inches, and the knitting yarn can be arbitrarily switched at the same yarn feeder. It is preferable to use a card circular knitting machine, and the knitting machine hook diameter is selected according to the product width. About the gauge of a knitting machine, since it becomes possible to cut | judge in arbitrary shapes and it can be set as a product as it is, use of a fine gauge knitting machine is suitable and use of about 26-40 gauge knitting machine is preferable. In particular, the use of a 28-36 gauge knitting machine is preferable because it can be cut into an arbitrary shape to obtain a product as it is and a product having good stretchability can be obtained. The knitted fabric density is also arbitrary, but it is preferable to set the density as dense as possible so that the knitted fabric is not unraveled in a portion cut into an arbitrary shape and becomes a soft product.
本発明に係る筒状丸編地の染色仕上げ方法としては、通常の染色仕上げ工程を使用することができる。該工程においては、使用する繊維素材に応じた染色条件を使用することができ、使用する染色機も液流染色機、ウインス染色機、パドル染色機など任意であることができるが、筒状編地をほぼ製品長に一枚ずつ裁断して染色する、いわゆるピース染めを行う場合には、パドル染色機の使用が好ましく、また、筒状編地を長尺のまま染色する場合には、液流染色機やウインス染色機により染色すればよい。吸水性や柔軟性を向上させる加工を行ってもよい。 As a method for dyeing and finishing a cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention, a normal dyeing and finishing process can be used. In this step, dyeing conditions according to the fiber material to be used can be used, and the dyeing machine to be used can be arbitrary, such as a liquid dyeing machine, a wins dyeing machine, and a paddle dyeing machine. When performing so-called piece dyeing, in which the ground is cut approximately one by one into the product length and dyed, it is preferable to use a paddle dyeing machine, and when dyeing a tubular knitted fabric with a long length, It may be dyed by a flow dyeing machine or a wins dyeing machine. You may perform the process which improves water absorption and a softness | flexibility.
また、本発明に係る筒状丸編地の製造においては、以下に説明する染色加工工程で熱融着弾性糸を融着させるため、乾熱では150℃以上、湿熱なら100℃以上の加熱工程が必要である。そのため、筒状のまま熱処理が可能なピンテンターなどの乾熱セット機、あるいは、オートクレープなどの湿熱(スチーム)セット機の使用が好ましい。加熱条件は、熱融着弾性糸が溶融する条件であればよく、乾熱であれば150℃以上220℃以下で10〜180秒間の熱処理が好ましく、より好ましくは180℃以上195℃以下である。また、湿熱であれば湿熱100℃以上130℃以下で2〜120秒間の熱処理が好ましく、より好ましくは110℃以上130℃以下で、30〜60秒間である。 In addition, in the production of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention, the heat-sealing elastic yarn is fused in the dyeing process described below, so that the heating process is 150 ° C. or higher for dry heat and 100 ° C. or higher for wet heat. is required. Therefore, it is preferable to use a dry heat setting machine such as a pin tenter that can be heat-treated in a cylindrical shape, or a wet heat (steam) setting machine such as an autoclave. The heating condition may be any condition as long as the heat-bonding elastic yarn is melted. If dry heat is applied, heat treatment is preferably performed at 150 ° C. or higher and 220 ° C. or lower for 10 to 180 seconds, and more preferably 180 ° C. or higher and 195 ° C. or lower. . Moreover, if it is wet heat, the heat processing for 2 to 120 second at 100 degreeC or more and 130 degrees C or less is preferable, More preferably, it is 110 degreeC or more and 130 degrees C or less for 30 to 60 seconds.
染色加工工程の例として、衿、袖はテープによりパイピングして包み、裾部は任意な形状に裁断したままで製品とするノースリーブのフィットインナーを製造するに際し、筒状丸編地を編成し、製品1着枚の長さで裁断した後、パドル染色機に投入し、精練、染色を行い、乾燥後、ほぼボディー型の型枠に筒状編地をセットして、その状態で、120℃程度でスチームセット行い、その後に裾部を任意な形状に裁断し、衿、袖はテープで始末縫製して製品化する方法が挙げられる。筒状編地の生機をそのまま染色機に投入し、精練、染色を行う方法以外に、染色機に投入前に100℃程度の真空状態でスチームセットを行い、予め、熱融着弾性糸を熱融着させておくことも可能である。 As an example of the dyeing process, pipes and sleeves are wrapped with tape and wrapped, and when manufacturing a sleeveless fit inner with the skirt cut into an arbitrary shape, a cylindrical circular knitted fabric is knitted, After cutting with a length of one product, it is put into a paddle dyeing machine, scoured and dyed, dried, and then set in a cylindrical knitted fabric in a body-shaped formwork. Steam setting is performed at a degree, and then the hem is cut into an arbitrary shape, and the collar and sleeves are sewn with tape to produce a product. In addition to the method in which the raw fabric of the tubular knitted fabric is directly put into the dyeing machine and scouring and dyeing, steam setting is performed in a vacuum state of about 100 ° C. before feeding into the dyeing machine, and the heat-bonded elastic yarn is heated beforehand It can also be fused.
以下、実施例により本発明を具体的に説明する。無論、本発明はこれらの具体例に限定されるものではない。
尚、以下の方法により、実施例及び比較例を評価した。
(1)解れ性
実施例及び比較例により製造された製品の裁断部の解れ性は、以下の方法で評価した。
家庭用洗濯機を使用し、浴比1:30で製品を投入し、水温は常温で洗濯5分/回、すすぎ10分/回で、50回繰り返し洗濯した。尚、連続して洗濯を行い、洗濯1回毎の乾燥は省略した。洗濯後自然乾燥を行い、下記評価基準1〜5で評価した。評価基準3以上であれば洗濯後の解れは僅かで製品として問題なく、数値が高いほど好ましい。
5 : 裁断部の解れは全く無い
4 : 裁断部に僅かに解れが発生しているが、製品として問題ない
3 : 裁断部に少し解れが発生しているが、問題ないレベル
2 : 裁断部に解れが発生し、製品として問題のあるレベル
1 : 裁断部に解れが甚だしく発生し、問題である
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to these specific examples.
In addition, the Example and the comparative example were evaluated with the following method.
(1) Unravelability The unravelability of the cutting part of the product manufactured by the Example and the comparative example was evaluated by the following method.
Using a household washing machine, the product was introduced at a bath ratio of 1:30, and the water temperature was 5 minutes / times of washing at room temperature and 10 minutes / times of rinsing, and washing was repeated 50 times. In addition, washing was performed continuously, and drying for each wash was omitted. After washing, it was naturally dried and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria 1-5. If the evaluation criterion is 3 or more, the unraveling after washing is slight and there is no problem as a product.
5: There is no unraveling of the cutting part. 4: The unraveling of the cutting part is slightly occurring, but there is no problem as a product. 3: The unraveling is occurring in the cutting part, but there is no problem. Level 2: In the cutting part Levels that are unclear and have a problem as a product 1: Unclear problems occur in the cutting part, and this is a problem
(2)着用感
実施例及び比較例で得られた筒状丸編地の、熱融着弾性糸を含有する部分の風合いと着用感を、実際の着用により、以下の評価基準で評価した。評価基準3以上であればソフトな風合いで、着用感を阻害せず、数値が高いほど好ましい。
5 : ソフトで適度な締め付け感が有り、快適である
4 : ソフトで締め付け感良好で、着用していて快適
3 : やや風合いが硬いが、着用していて不快ではない
2 : 風合いが硬く、締め付け感が強く着用していて不快である
1 : 風合いが硬く、伸縮性に劣るので締め付け感が強く、きわめて不快
(2) Wearing feeling The feeling and wearing feeling of the part containing the heat-sealing elastic yarn of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were evaluated by the following evaluation criteria by actual wearing. If it is 3 or more of evaluation criteria, it is preferable that the numerical value is high as it has a soft texture and does not impair the feeling of wearing.
5: Soft, moderately tightened and comfortable 4: Soft, comfortable and comfortable to wear 3: Slightly hard, but not uncomfortable to wear 2: Hard, tight Sense of wearing is strong and unpleasant 1: Sense of tightness is strong due to its hard texture and inferior elasticity, extremely uncomfortable
[実施例1]
同一の給糸口において任意に編み糸の変更が可能な釜径14インチ、28ゲージの丸編機(SANTONI社製 SM8 TOP1)を使用して、図1に示すノースリーブフィットインナーを製造した。
編成ではフィットインナーの裾部に当たる裾端部(1)より編出し、裾部(2)を編成後、着用時ウエストに当たるウエスト部(3)を編成し、次いで、胸部(3)を少し長く編成し、一着分の編地とした。なお、編成時の組織と糸使いは次の通りである。
裾部(2)は天竺組織で、熱融着弾性糸(商品名モビロンR−LL:日清紡績(株)製)110dtに、ナイロン加工糸13dt/7f(フィラメント、以下同じ記号を使用する)を撚り数600T/mでカバーリングした被覆弾性糸と、非熱融着弾性糸(商品名ロイカSF:旭化成せんい(株)製 TMAによる圧縮変形開始温度が150〜180℃の範囲内、180℃50%伸長での熱切断秒数30秒以上であり、非熱融着性であるが熱固着性を有する)78dtに、ナイロン加工糸13dt/7fを撚り数500T/mでカバーリングした被覆弾性糸を1本交互にプレーティングの裏糸として使用し、その際、表糸は、ナイロン加工糸56dt/48fとして編成した。
[Example 1]
A sleeveless fit inner shown in FIG. 1 was manufactured using a 14-inch, 28-gauge circular knitting machine (SM8 TOP1 manufactured by SANTONI), which can arbitrarily change the knitting yarn at the same yarn feeder.
In knitting, we knitted from the hem end (1) which hits the hem of the fit inner, knitted the hem (2), knitted the waist (3) which hits the waist when worn, and then knitted the chest (3) slightly longer And we made a knitted fabric for one. The organization and yarn use during knitting are as follows.
The skirt (2) is a tengu structure, and heat-bonded elastic yarn (trade name Mobilon R-LL: manufactured by Nisshinbo Co., Ltd.) 110 dt, nylon processed yarn 13 dt / 7f (filament, hereinafter the same symbol is used) Covered elastic yarn covered with a twist number of 600 T / m and non-heat-sealed elastic yarn (trade name Roica SF: manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd. TMA has a compression deformation starting temperature in the range of 150 to 180 ° C., 180 ° C. 50 Coated elastic yarn obtained by covering the nylon processed yarn 13dt / 7f with a twist number of 500 T / m on 78 dt (heat-cutting time of 30% or more at% elongation, non-heat-bondable but heat-bonding) Were used alternately as the backing yarn of the plating, and the front yarn was knitted as a nylon processed yarn 56dt / 48f.
ウエスト部(3)は、非熱融着弾性糸(商品名ロイカSF:旭化成せんい(株)製)78dtに、ナイロン加工糸33dt/24fを撚り数500T/mでカバーリングした被覆弾性糸のみを使用し、ウェール方向にニット、タックを交互に編成し、コース方向へは、タックを3回連続するようにして編成して、編地の締め付け感を強くした。
胸部(4)は、ウエスト部と同じ糸使いで天竺組織により、裾部の非熱融着弾性糸からなる被覆弾性糸を、被覆弾性糸のみを全コース使用して編成した。
編成できた1着分の編地を、金網ネット上にしわを伸ばして置き、オートクレープを使用しほぼ真空状態で120℃10分のスチームセットを行った。次いで、パドル染色機を使用してナイロンの染色を行い、脱水、乾燥後、ボディサイズに模った型枠にセットし、120℃60秒でスチームセットした。こうして得られた編地の裾部を裁断し、また、衿部、袖部をノースリーブ状に裁断し、その端部を3つ折縫製始末して、裾部は裁断したままの製品とした。
得られた製品の解れ性、着用感を評価した結果を以下の表1に示す。
本実施例1の製品は、繰り返し洗濯を行っても裾の裁断部の解れは発生せず、また、裾部の着用感もソフトで適度な締め付け感を有し、快適な製品であった。
The waist part (3) is a non-heat-sealed elastic yarn (trade name Roika SF: manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 78 dt, a nylon processed yarn 33 dt / 24f and a covered elastic yarn covered at 500 T / m. Used, knits and tacks were knitted alternately in the wale direction, and the knitted fabric was knitted so that the tacks were continued three times in the course direction, thereby enhancing the tightness of the knitted fabric.
The chest (4) was knitted with a covered elastic yarn made of non-heat-sealed elastic yarn at the hem using only the coated elastic yarn, using the same thread as the waist portion, with a tentacle structure.
One knitted fabric that was knitted was placed on a wire mesh net with wrinkles stretched, and steam setting was performed at 120 ° C. for 10 minutes in an almost vacuum state using an autoclave. Next, nylon was dyed using a paddle dyeing machine, and after dehydration and drying, it was set on a formwork simulating a body size and steam set at 120 ° C. for 60 seconds. The knitted part of the knitted fabric thus obtained was cut, the collar part and the sleeve part were cut into a sleeveless shape, and the end part was folded three times, and the skirt part was cut.
The results of evaluating the unraveling properties and the feeling of wearing of the obtained products are shown in Table 1 below.
The product of this Example 1 was a comfortable product with no loosening of the cut portion of the hem even after repeated washing, and the wearing feeling of the hem was soft and moderately tightened.
[実施例2〜8、比較例1〜3]
実施例1において、裾部に使用する弾性糸の種類、繊度の変更、および、熱融着弾性糸と非熱融着弾性糸の配置条件を、以下の表1に示すように変更した編地を作製し、これらの編地から製品を作製して、解れ性と着用感の評価を行った。結果を以下の表1に示す。
本実施例2〜8の製品は、比較例1〜3の製品に比較して、解れ性及び/又は着用感に優れていることが分かる。
[Examples 2-8, Comparative Examples 1-3]
In Example 1, the type of elastic yarn used for the skirt, the change in fineness, and the knitted fabric in which the arrangement conditions of the heat fusion elastic yarn and the non-heat fusion elastic yarn are changed as shown in Table 1 below. Were manufactured from these knitted fabrics and evaluated for unraveling and wearing feeling. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
It can be seen that the products of Examples 2 to 8 are superior in unraveling property and / or wearing feeling as compared with the products of Comparative Examples 1 to 3.
[実施例9]
実施例1において、フィットインナーの裾部の編成を、熱融着弾性糸110dtに、ナイロン加工糸13dt/7fを撚り数600T/mでカバーリングした被覆弾性糸と、非熱融着弾性糸78dtに、ナイロン加工糸13dt/7fを撚り数500T/mでカバーリングした被覆弾性糸を1本交互に編成した以外は、ウエスト部、胸部の編成、染色加工、縫製等は実施例1と同様にして製品を製造した。
得られた製品の解れ性、着用感を評価した結果を以下の表1に示す。
本実施例9の製品は、繰り返し洗濯を行っても裾の裁断部の解れは発生せず、また、裾部の着用感もソフトで適度な締め付け感を有し、快適な製品であった。
[Example 9]
In Example 1, the knitting of the skirt portion of the fit inner was performed by covering a heat-bonded elastic yarn 110 dt with a nylon processed yarn 13 dt / 7f covered at a twist number of 600 T / m, and a non-heat-bonded elastic yarn 78 dt. In addition, the knitting, dyeing, sewing, etc. of the waist and chest are the same as in Example 1, except that one covered elastic yarn covered with a nylon processed yarn 13 dt / 7f and covered with a twist number of 500 T / m is alternately knitted. Manufactured the product.
The results of evaluating the unraveling properties and the feeling of wearing of the obtained products are shown in Table 1 below.
The product of this Example 9 was a comfortable product with no loosening of the cut portion of the hem even after repeated washing, and the wear feeling of the hem portion was soft and moderately tightened.
[実施例10]
同一の給糸口において任意に編み糸の変更が可能な釜径16インチ、32ゲージの丸編機(SANTONI社製 SM8 TOP1)を使用して、図1に示すノースリーブフィットインナーで、裾、衿、袖とも裁断したままとする製品を製造した。
編成ではフィットインナーの裾部に当たる裾端部(1)より編出し、裾部(2)を編成後、着用時ウエストに当たるウエスト部(3)を編成し、次いで、胸部(3)を少し長く編成し、一着分の編地とした。
[Example 10]
Using a 16-inch, 32-gauge circular knitting machine (SM8 TOP1 manufactured by SANTONI), which can arbitrarily change the knitting yarn at the same yarn feeder, with the sleeveless fit inner shown in FIG. Produced a product that kept the sleeves still cut.
In knitting, we knitted from the hem end (1) which hits the hem of the fit inner, knitted the hem (2), knitted the waist (3) which hits the waist when worn, and then knitted the chest (3) slightly longer And we made a knitted fabric for one.
尚、編成時の組織と糸使いは次の通りであった。
裾部(2)は天竺組織で、ナイロン加工糸56dt/48fに、熱融着弾性糸(商品名モビロンR−LL:日清紡績(株)製)110dtの裸糸と、非熱融着弾性糸(商品名ロイカSF:旭化成せんい(株)製)78dtの裸糸とを1本交互にプレーティングにより編成した。次いで、この糸使いのままウエスト部(3)は、ウェール方向にニット、タックを交互に編成し、コース方向へは、タックを3回連続するようにして編成して、編地の締め付け感を強くした。さらに、胸部(4)は同じ糸使いの天竺組織により編成した。
編成できた1着分の編地を、金網ネット上にしわを伸ばして置き、オートクレープを使用しほぼ真空状態で120℃10分のスチームセットを行った。次いで、パドル染色機を使用してナイロンの染色を行い、脱水、乾燥後、ボディサイズに模った型枠にセットし、120℃60秒でスチームセットした。こうして得られた編地の裾部を裁断し、また、衿部、袖部もノースリーブ状に裁断し、裁断部は裁断したままの製品とした。
得られた製品の解れ性、着用感を評価した結果を以下の表1に示す。
本実施例10の製品は、繰り返し洗濯を行っても、裾、衿、袖の裁断部の解れは発生せず、また、着用感もソフトで適度な締め付け感を有し、快適な製品であった。
The organization and yarn usage during knitting were as follows.
The skirt (2) is a tengu structure, a nylon-processed yarn 56dt / 48f, a heat-bonded elastic yarn (trade name Mobilon R-LL: manufactured by Nisshinbo Co., Ltd.) 110 dt bare yarn, and a non-heat-bonded elastic yarn (Trade name Roika SF: manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) One 78 dt bare yarn was knitted alternately by plating. Next, the waist portion (3) is knitted and tacked alternately in the wale direction while the yarn is being used, and the knitted fabric is knitted in the course direction in such a way that the tuck is continued three times to give a tight feeling of the knitted fabric. Strengthened. Furthermore, the chest (4) was knitted with a tengu tissue using the same thread.
One knitted fabric that was knitted was placed on a wire mesh net with wrinkles stretched, and steam setting was performed at 120 ° C. for 10 minutes in an almost vacuum state using an autoclave. Next, nylon was dyed using a paddle dyeing machine, and after dehydration and drying, it was set on a formwork simulating a body size and steam set at 120 ° C. for 60 seconds. The knitted part of the knitted fabric thus obtained was cut, and the collar part and the sleeve part were also cut into a sleeveless shape, and the cut part was made into a cut product.
The results of evaluating the unraveling properties and the feeling of wearing of the obtained products are shown in Table 1 below.
The product of this Example 10 is a comfortable product that does not unravel the cut edges of the hem, heel, and sleeves even after repeated washing, and has a soft and moderate tightening feeling. It was.
本発明に係る筒状丸編地を使用すれば、弾性糸を含有する筒状丸編地の端部を任意な形状に裁断し、裁断した状態のままで製品化が可能となるため、ソフトな風合いと良好な伸縮性を有する、インナー、スポーツウェアなどの衣服製品の製造に好適に利用可能である。 If the cylindrical circular knitted fabric according to the present invention is used, the end of the cylindrical circular knitted fabric containing the elastic yarn is cut into an arbitrary shape, and the product can be commercialized in the cut state. It can be suitably used for the production of clothing products such as innerwear and sportswear having a good texture and good stretchability.
1 裾の裁断部
2 裾部
3 ウエスト部
4 胸部
5 衿、袖の端部
1 Cutting part of
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CN107447353A (en) * | 2017-08-02 | 2017-12-08 | 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 | The three-dimensional seamless two-sided weaving method for wearing cashmere skirt of single piece type |
JP2021001408A (en) * | 2019-06-20 | 2021-01-07 | 株式会社タケダレース | Lace fabric |
US20220047022A1 (en) * | 2019-05-08 | 2022-02-17 | Delta Galil Industries Ltd. | Garment and Clothes that are Unravel-Free and Roll-Free |
JP7335030B1 (en) * | 2023-02-27 | 2023-08-29 | 株式会社タケダレース | Lace fabric and its manufacturing method |
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JP6586544B1 (en) * | 2018-09-11 | 2019-10-02 | 家歳 上田 | Wet suit fabric and wet suit using the fabric |
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