JP3250850B2 - Polyester plaque and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention comprises a polyester mottled yarn which has a natural and good appearance, color tone and texture and is bulky, and has a bulky property. The present invention relates to fabrics and methods for producing them.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester multifilament yarns are characterized by a high degree of uniformity, but when turned upside down, there is little change, and they have artificial coldness. They tend to be poorly matched.
On the other hand, as a method for imparting bulkiness to a polyester multifilament yarn, a false twisting method, an indentation crimping method, a knit denitting method, and the like are well known. It is difficult to give a good feeling and bulkiness.

[0003] In view of the above, the above-mentioned drawbacks of the polyester multifilament yarn have been improved so that the polyester multifilament yarn can be given a spun yarn-like appearance and feeling to produce a marbled woven or knitted fabric. Or
Attempts have been made to impart bulkiness and crispness, for example. As such a conventional technique, an unstretched portion (thick portion) and an unstretched portion (thick portion) are stretched in the length direction of each filament constituting a polyester multifilament yarn. Part (details)
The unstretched portion and the stretched portion are dispersed and present in a filament yarn (Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 51-7207,
1-113832), and the average particle size is 0.9 to 0.9.
Undrawn multifilament yarn in which 1.8 μm inorganic particles are uniformly dispersed at a ratio of 0.5 to 2.5% by weight (JP-A-59-94617), which has concave portions Non-uniformly drawn polyester multifilament yarn composed of irregular cross-section filaments (JP-A-4-91219); 1.0% by weight of titanium oxide
Polyester spot stretched yarns containing the above and having a period of 50 cm on a spectrograph at a value of 1/2 or less of the maximum value (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-85021) can be cited.

[0004] The above-mentioned conventional polyester multifilament yarns, unlike polyester multifilament yarns which have not been subjected to such processing, have different appearances such as marbling, span-touch feeling, bulkiness and the like. This has a certain effect. However, in those yarns, the undrawn thick part is dyed dark, while the drawn details are dyed light, so that it exhibits the so-called marbling color tone, appearance, texture, etc. There is an unnatural spot (gap) in the appearance and hand, such as in spun yarn made of natural fibers such as wool and cotton.
Although it was natural, it was rich in change and bulkiness, and did not have a natural good appearance, color tone, texture, etc. that was natural and hard to withstand even after long use.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a natural and good appearance, touch, color tone, texture and the like as in spun yarns made of natural fibers without gaps such as unnatural color spots. It is an object of the present invention to provide a mottled yarn composed of a polyester multifilament having a high bulkiness and a fabric composed of the mottled yarn.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have repeatedly studied to solve the above problems. As a result, in the polyester multifilament yarn, not only the individual filaments constituting the yarn are provided with thick and thin spots, but also the multifilament yarn is formed into a thick denier filament having a specific thickness and a thin denier filament having a specific thickness. With a denier mix filament yarn, and the thick and fine spots are randomly and finely dispersed in various states throughout the multifilament yarn and at the same time, to a specific bulk height,
And, if necessary, further generation of a large number of fluffs on the yarn can achieve the above object, and such a polyester multifilament mottle contains a specific ratio of inorganic fine particles having a specific particle size. The present invention has been completed by finding that it can be obtained by drawing a denier-mixed multifilament yarn of polyester under specific conditions.

That is, the present invention relates to a polyester spun yarn having the following properties (a) to (e); (a) a thick denier filament having a thick and thin spot in the length direction and a thick and thin spot in the length direction. (B) in a thick denier filament, the length of the thick portion is mainly 1 mm or less, and the total length of adjacent thick portions and details is 1 cm or less; (b) c) In the fine denier filament, the length of the thick part is mainly 5 mm or less and the total length of the adjacent thick part and details is 10 cm or less; (d) When any one cross section of the yarn is observed with an optical microscope The cross-sectional brightness and cross-sectional area of each filament are all three or more levels. (E) The bulk height K represented by the following equation is 10 to 35 cm ^3.
/ G;

[0008]

K (cm ³ / g) = V (cm ³ ) / W (g) where V: volume of yarn after heat treatment at 100 ° C. for 10 minutes (cm)
³ ) W: a weight of the yarn used in the heat treatment (g);

Further, the present invention provides a polyester mottled yarn characterized by having the following characteristics (a) to (e) and (f) having at least 500 cuts / m.

Further, the present invention relates to an unstretched fine denier filament formed from a polyester or copolyester containing 4 to 10% by weight of inorganic fine particles having an average particle size of 1.0 μm or less. A denier mixed multifilament yarn with a drawn thick denier filament is preheated at a temperature of 35 to 55 ° C., and a draw ratio = {(D /
100) +1｝ × (0.5-0.6) (where D = elongation at break of multifilament yarn) and heat setting temperature 110
A method of producing by stretching under conditions of up to 140 ° C. and, if necessary, further subjecting it to alkali weight reduction, and a fabric comprising the above-mentioned polyester plaques are included.

The polyester plaque of the present invention will be described in detail. First, the polyester plaque of the present invention is composed of a thick denier filament having thick and thin spots in the longitudinal direction and a fine denier filament having thick and thin spots in the longitudinal direction. [Requirement (a)] is required to be a denier mix polyester multifilament yarn in which a plurality of yarns are mixed.

In this case, in the polyester plaque,
The average denier of a plurality of fine denier filaments is 1.5
d / f or less, preferably 0.5 to 1.5 d / f, and the average denier of the plurality of thick denier filaments is 4.0 d.
/ F or less, preferably 2.5 to 4.0 d / f. In particular, the difference between the average denier of the thick denier filament and the average denier of the fine denier filament is about 2.0 to 3.5 d / f. It is preferable to make the yarn bulky, versatile and fuzzy at the same time. The ratio of fine denier filaments to thick denier filaments in polyester plaques is generally 50-70: 5 by weight.
It is preferable to set it to about 0 to 30 in view of the variety of spots.

In the present invention, the thick part of the thick denier filament having the thick and thin spots is mainly 1 mm.
And the total length of adjacent thick portions and details is 1 cm or less [requirement (b)], and the thick portion of the thin denier filament having the thick and thin spots is mainly 5 mm or less and adjacent thick portions. The requirement (c) that the total length with the details is 10 cm or less is required. That is,
In the polyester plaque of the present invention, the length of the thick portion in the thick denier filament and the interval (period) at which the thick portion appears, and the length of the thick portion in the fine denier filament and the interval (period) at which the thick portion appears, are determined. It is necessary to keep them different from each other. Further, in the thick denier filament and the fine denier filament, the dispersion of the thick and thin spots becomes perfect by randomly varying the length of the thick portion and the total length of the adjacent thick portion and the details within the above range. More preferred.

Here, the length of the thick portion of the filament in the present invention is defined as L in FIG. 1A when the boundary between the thick portion and the details of the filament is clear as shown in FIG. _The length indicated by ₁ corresponds to this. When the diameter gradually changes from a thick portion to a small portion as shown in FIG. 1B and the boundary is unclear, a point A having a maximum diameter is obtained as shown in FIG. An intermediate point C between the point A and the point B having the minimum diameter, and a distance L ₁ between two points CC sandwiching the point A
And the length of the thick part. Further, in the present invention, in the filament, and the total length of the thick adjacent section and details, refer to the total length of the length L ₂ of the detail adjacent thereto and the length L ₁ of the thick portion.

Further, in the polyester plaque of the present invention, when any one cross-section of the yarn is observed with an optical microscope, the cross-sectional brightness and cross-sectional area of each filament must be at least three levels. [Requirement (d)]. This means that for any cross-section of the yarn of the invention, in most cases the filaments of various cross-sectional brightness and cross-section are finely intermingled with each other in three or more stages,
The result is a mild, natural, deep look, shade and texture in which the gloss and tone of the overall yarn are not harsh or extreme but mixed with a variety of glosses and shades.

The greater the number of stages of the cross-sectional brightness and cross-sectional area in any one cross-section of the yarn, the more the cross-sectional brightness and cross-sectional area are mixed and the more subtle but natural the appearance, color tone, and hand feeling are. It is particularly preferable that the cross-sectional brightness is 5 or more steps and the cross-sectional area is 5 or more steps because the light-emitting element can be emitted. The upper limit of the number of steps of the cross-sectional brightness and the cross-sectional area is not particularly limited.

In order to make the cross-section lightness of an arbitrary cross section of the polyester plaque of the present invention three or more, the refractive index close to the refractive index (1.7) of the polyester as inorganic fine particles to be incorporated into the polyester is used. (Preferably 1.5
To 2.0), and denier-mixed polyester multifilament yarn containing such inorganic fine particles is preferably stretched unevenly. Due to such spot stretching, void-generating portions and void-free portions are finely distributed along the length direction in each filament, and the amount of void generation is slightly different even in the void-generating portion, and the period is changed. As a result of each filament being slightly out of phase with each other and being dispersed throughout the yarn, the cross-sectional brightness of any one cross section of the yarn becomes three or more stages.

The polyester filament yarn containing the inorganic fine particles of the present invention has a bright luster in an undrawn state. However, when the polyester filament yarn is unevenly drawn to generate voids in the filament, a dull yarn-like gloss is generated in the void generating portion. The gloss is different between the void-generating portion and the void-non-generating portion. When the fine particles are blended in a relatively large amount of 4 to 10% by weight in the polyester,
When spot stretching is performed, many voids are generated in details more than in the thick part. Further, since the voids scatter light, if a void exists in the yarn, the cross section of the yarn due to transmitted light becomes dark. And
Since the voids generated in the filament do not disappear even after dyeing, the fact that the state of void generation in each filament in three or more stages in any one cross section of the yarn is due to light scattering in the cross section of the yarn. As a result, three or more levels of color tone exist.

Even in the case of the same spot-drawn polyester multifilament yarn, if the inorganic filler in the yarn is titanium oxide having a high refractive index, a difference in cross-sectional brightness between filaments occurs in any one cross section of the yarn. Absent. Also,
Even when the content of the fine particles is in the range of 4 to 10% by weight as described above, even in the polyester multifilament yarn drawn uniformly, there is no difference in the cross-sectional brightness between the filaments in the cross section of the yarn.

Further, the polyester spot drawn yarn of the present invention is
As described above, in any one cross section of the yarn, the cross-sectional area of each filament has three or more stages, and at that time, in any one cross section (the maximum filament cross-sectional area)
It is desirable that // (minimum filament cross-sectional area) be greater than or equal to 6.0, so that thick portions and fine details having greatly different cross-sectional areas will be variously mixed in any one cross-section of the yarn. .

In the polyester plaque of the present invention,
As is apparent from the requirements (a) to (d) above, the filament yarn is not composed of a single denier filament, but is a denier mixed filament yarn composed of two types of filaments having different deniers. And the thick and thin filaments whose diameter changes in the longitudinal direction, and the thick and thin denier filaments and fine denier filaments are mixed and dispersed while displacing the thin and long length, period, sectional brightness and sectional area finely. It is.
As a result, the polyester plaque of the present invention, when viewed from the entire yarn, the thickness of the filaments constituting the yarn, the location and state of the presence of the thin and fine, the manner in which the thin and fine appear, and the like described above. Although it is extremely varied compared to the conventional filament yarn, the diversity is not localized in a part of the yarn but is distributed finely throughout the yarn. And such a structure in the plaque of the present invention is different from the polyester plaque of the present invention in the change and versatility not seen in the ordinary polyester multifilament yarn or the conventional multifilament yarn described above. It is not rich, monotonous or flat, but yet it is natural and imparts excellent properties such as very good bulkiness, hand, appearance and touch.

Further, in the polyester plaque of the present invention, it is necessary that the bulk height K represented by the above-mentioned formula is in the range of 10 to 35 cm ³ / g [requirement (e)]. The value of the bulk height K = 10 to 35 cm ³ / g is such that in the yarn of the present invention, the thick and thin portions are finely dispersed without being extremely localized in part, and the yarn has almost no converging portion, and constitutes the yarn. It means that the filaments are well separated from each other and that each filament is in a crimped state. And the bulk altitude 10-35c
In the polyester plaques of the invention in the range of m ³ / g,
Each filament usually has a random number of crimps of about 1 to 50 pieces / inch. In addition, the high bulk value of 10 to 35 cm ³ / g in the polyester plaque of the present invention,
This is also because the yarn of the present invention is not a filament yarn consisting of a single denier filament alone, but a denier mixed filament yarn of a fine denier filament and a thick denier filament having a heat shrinkage difference from each other.

The polyester plaque of the present invention has not only the bulkiness described above after the yarn is boiled, but also
Even if it is boiled after forming into a woven or knitted fabric, bulkiness is exhibited.
In this point, even if a normal thick and thin yarn has a certain bulkiness when it is a yarn, it is greatly different from a case where it does not become bulky when boiled after being formed into a woven or knitted fabric. This is because the polyester plaque of the present invention has very fine thick details, and the above-mentioned random crimp can be sufficiently expressed even in a woven or knitted structure. The thermal stress peak of the polyester plaque of the present invention is 10 mg / d or less (usually in the range of -10 mg / d to 10 mg / d), and the thick part is spontaneously extensible and swells (wound) in the woven or knitted fabric. Shrink)
Is easy to express.

By the way, the above-mentioned requirements (a) of the present invention-
(E) refers to the properties of the polyester plaque after plaque stretching, and the specific measurement method thereof is as described in the section of Examples below.

Further, the above-mentioned polyester mottled yarn of the present invention may be further bulked by generating fluff, if necessary, by reducing the alkali or using a combination of the alkali reduction and the kneading treatment. In the case of a polyester plaque having such a fluff, it is preferable to have a large number of fluffs of 500 pieces / m or more [requirement (f)]. In the case of the polyester mottled yarn of the present invention further provided with this requirement (f) together with the above-mentioned requirements (a) to (d), it is not found in the above-mentioned conventional multifilament yarn having no fluff. Such a high bulkiness and a spun yarn-like feeling can be obtained more highly. The number of fluff is especially 800 pieces / m
These are preferred from the viewpoints of bulkiness and feeling. The upper limit of the number of fluff is not particularly limited, and may be any number as long as it does not cause a significant decrease in the strength of the polyester plaque or a fabric produced therefrom.

The total number of filaments and the total denier of the polyester plaque of the present invention are not particularly limited. Generally, the total number of filaments per thread is about 10 to 200 f and the total denier is about 30 to 200 d. But
It is preferable from the viewpoints of fiberization processability at the time of spinning and the like, subsequent processability, and handleability at the time of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric. Further, the polyester plaque of the present invention may be subjected to an entanglement treatment by air entanglement or another method as necessary.

As the polyester constituting the polyester plaque of the present invention, any polyester which can be generally used for the production of polyester fibers can be used.
It is preferable to use polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or a copolyester in which an ethylene terephthalate unit and / or a butylene terephthalate unit is a main constituent unit and a small amount of another copolymerization component is copolymerized.

In the above, in the case of a copolyester mainly containing ethylene terephthalate units and / or butylene terephthalate units, isophthalic acid, 5-metalsulfoisophthalic acid, phthalic acid,
Aromatic carboxylic acid components such as 6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, oxalic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, aliphatic carboxylic acid components such as sebacic acid, trimellitic acid, polyfunctional carboxylic acid components such as pyromellitic acid, diethylene glycol, Propylene glycol, butanediol or ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, pentaerythritol and the like can be used.

When dyed, in the conventional multifilament mottled yarn, the unstretched portion (thick portion) is dyed dark, while the stretched portion (detail) is dyed light, resulting in color spots (dark and light).
It becomes a color heather tone. In contrast, in the multifilament yarn of the present invention, the thick portion (unstretched portion) and the detail (stretched portion)
But, as described above, it is distributed very finely and randomly throughout the yarn, so when viewed from the whole yarn, such shading does not occur, it becomes a solid heather tone, a natural appearance, texture, color tone, etc. A woven or knitted fabric having the same can be obtained.

The polyester plaque of the present invention having the above requirements (a) to (e) is formed from a polyester or copolyester containing 4 to 10% by weight of inorganic fine particles having an average particle size of 1.0 μm or less. A denier mixed multifilament yarn of an undrawn fine denier filament and an undrawn thick denier filament is subjected to a preheating temperature of 35 to 55 ° C and a drawing ratio of {(D / 100) +1} × (0.5 to 0.6).
(However, D = elongation at break of the multifilament yarn) and a stretching treatment under a heat setting temperature of 110 to 140 ° C. can produce a smooth product.

In the above, the denier-mixed multifilament yarn of the undrawn fine denier filament and the undrawn thick denier filament may be produced by any method, for example, an undrawn fine denier multifilament yarn and an undrawn thick denier filament. The multifilament yarns may be separately spun and made, and the two types of multifilament yarns may be combined. But,
It is desirable to produce a denier mix multifilament yarn in one step by direct spinning in terms of production efficiency because it is excellent.

In this case, for example, as shown in FIG. 2, the spinning amount of the resin is changed left and right (up and down) from one die of a split type in which the number of holes is changed left and right (or up and down). 1500 to 2500 m / min, more preferably 1800
Spin at a spinning speed of 速度 2500 m / min. In this spinning operation, the average particle size of the inorganic fine particles is generally 1.0 μm.
If it exceeds m, the spinnability becomes extremely poor. When the content of the inorganic fine particles is less than 4% by weight, filaments in which thick and thin spots appear in a short cycle as in the polyester plaques of the present invention are not formed. On the other hand, when the content exceeds 10% by weight, spinnability decreases. And lacks operability. If the spinning speed is less than 1500 m / min, the fabric becomes insufficient in strength when formed, while if the spinning speed exceeds 2500 m / min, the occurrence of spots and voids after stretching is insufficient, resulting in the desired bulkiness. Care must be taken because it is difficult to obtain a high shrinkage polyester plaque.

The average particle size of the inorganic fine particles is 0.3 to 0.8 μm.
m is preferable, and examples of preferable inorganic fine particles include barium sulfate, silica, calcium carbonate, magnesium oxide, and alumina.

Further, in the above spinning operation, it is desired that the difference in elongation between the undrawn fine denier filament and the undrawn thick denier filament is 30 to 80%. It is particularly desirable for obtaining plaques with the requirements of e). In addition, the above-mentioned spinning operation is performed so that the average denier of the fine denier filaments is 1.5 d or less and the average denier of the thick denier filaments is 4.0 d or less after the stretching treatment described later, and further, the unevenness after the stretching is obtained. The percentage of fine denier filaments in the yarn is 5
The spinning is preferably performed so as to be 0% by weight or more. When the average denier of the fine denier filaments and the thick denier filaments and the ratio of the fine denier filaments in the multifilament yarn deviate from such ranges, the period of the thick and fine spots in the filaments becomes longer, and the above-mentioned requirement in the present invention ( It becomes difficult to obtain a multifilament yarn provided with b) and (c).

At the time of spinning, the fiber-to-fiber dynamic friction coefficient of the polyester plaque after drawing is set to 0 so that the drawing points of the respective filaments are displaced during the next drawing process so that dispersion drawing can be performed. It is particularly desirable to apply an oil agent to the filament so as to be .29 or less, and in this case, the applied amount of the oil agent is preferably 0.8% by weight or more. The amount of oil is 0.
If the amount is less than 8% by weight, the thick and thin cycle of each filament tends to be long, and it is difficult to obtain a plaque in which thick and fine spots are finely dispersed.

Next, the denier mixed polyester multifilament undrawn yarn obtained above is preheated at a low temperature, drawn, and then heat set. In that case, preheating is preferably performed at a temperature of 35 to 55 ° C. Preheating temperature is 55 ℃
If the temperature exceeds 35 ° C., the cycle of the thick and thin spots in each filament becomes longer and the stability of the spots tends to be lacking.
If it is less than 1, the thickness will vary depending on the season, and the quality will not easily be constant. The higher the heat setting temperature is, the more effective the elongation is reduced, but at the same time, the strength of the yarn is also reduced. Therefore, it is preferable to set the temperature at about 110 to 140 ° C. from the viewpoint of the balance between elongation and strength. The stretching ratio is
The following formula;

[0037]

## EQU00003 ## Stretching ratio = {(D / 100) +1} .times. (0.5-0.6) In the formula, it is preferable that D = elongation at break of multifilament yarn.

Through the above steps, the polyester plaques of the present invention satisfying the requirements (a) to (e) can be obtained. Has a natural and good appearance, color tone and texture.

Then, (a)-
In the normal test of a Worcester spectrograph developed by Zuervega of Switzerland, the polyester plaque of the present invention having the requirement of (e) has a value of P ₀₃ at a period of 3 cm on the spectrograph and a value of 50 cm at a period of 50 cm on the spectrograph. P ₅₀ , the value at a period of 100 cm is P _100, and the maximum value is Pm
ax, P ₀₃ / Pmax ≧ 1/2, P ₅₀ /
This satisfies the relations of Pmax ≧ 1/2 and P ₁₀₀ / Pmax ≦ 1/2. From this, fine and fine spots are distributed randomly and variously in a short cycle over the entire yarn. You can see that.

The polyester plaque of the present invention is preferably
In addition to the requirements of (a) to (e), a further 500 pieces / m
The above requirement (f) may be provided, whereby a spun yarn like bulky spun yarn can be obtained.

In order to provide the polyester plaque of the present invention with the requirement of (f), a method of reducing the alkali weight of the polyester plaque having the requirements of (a) to (e) obtained above may be employed. When the alkali weight reduction is performed by using an alkali such as caustic soda and performing a kneading treatment at the same time as the weight reduction, the boundary between the thick part and the small part is cut, and the generation of fluff becomes easier. As conditions for the alkali weight reduction treatment, ordinary conditions employed in the alkali weight reduction treatment of polyester fibers can be employed, and the weight reduction rate is preferably in the range of about 5 to 30%. When the weight loss rate is less than 5%, it becomes difficult to generate fluff of 500 pieces / m or more,
On the other hand, if it exceeds 30%, the strength of the yarn may be extremely reduced. The operation of generating the fluff by the alkali reduction treatment may be performed at the yarn stage or after knitting or weaving.

In a thick and thin yarn in which the thick portions and the details of each filament are present at the same position in the length direction of the multifilament yarn, the thick portions that have not been drawn are mainly subjected to weight reduction. Later, a hole is formed or the strength is reduced so that it cannot be put to practical use. On the other hand, in the present invention, the thick and thin are not concentrated at the same position of the yarn, but are dispersed extremely finely and randomly over the entire multifilament yarn. Even if the rubbing process is performed, only the boundary between the thick part and the details of the filament is cut, and only a part of the yarn is not extremely reduced, and the perforation and strength as in the conventional thick and thin yarn Does not significantly decrease.
Such an extremely large number of fluffs of 500 / m or more in the polyester plaque of the present invention is realized for the first time in the polyester plaque of the present invention in which the thick spots are dispersed very finely and randomly throughout the yarn. It became possible.

The polyester plaques of the present invention obtained as described above generally have an elongation of 40 to 75%, and have a higher elongation than ordinary drawn yarns. In order to obtain a value of 15 cm ³ / g or more, the elongation needs to be 50% or more. Then, when the elongation becomes so high, the passability in a preparation process such as sizing generally becomes extremely poor. However, in the case of the polyester mottled yarn of the present invention, since the thick and fine spots in the filament are distributed over the entire yarn in an extremely short cycle as described above, when viewed from the yarn as a whole, the thick portion is present in any arbitrary cross section of the yarn. The elongation is averaged (uniform) in the length direction of the yarn by complementing them with the details, so that even if the elongation is so large, there is no problem in the passability in the preparation process. Without
Sizing can be performed smoothly.

The polyester plaques of the present invention can be made into various woven or knitted fabrics, similarly to ordinary polyester multifilament yarns, and can be particularly suitable for woven or knitted fabrics for clothing. The woven or knitted fabric produced from the polyester plaques of the present invention is natural, rich in changes and versatility, bulky, and used for a long time, as in spun yarns made of natural fibers such as wool and cotton. Natural and good texture
It has an appearance, a touch, and the like, and the dyed material has a good solid heather color tone without color spots. In that case, the dyeing may be performed at the yarn stage or after the knitting.

[0045]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In the following examples and the like, the average denier of the thick denier filament and the fine denier filament in the stretched yarn after stretching, the length of the thick part and the detail in the thick denier filament and the fine denier filament, the sum of the adjacent thick part and the detail The number of cross-sectional brightness and cross-sectional area in one cross section of the yarn, the bulk height K, and the number of cut fluffs were measured as follows.

Thick denier filament and fine denier
Average denier of filament : At least 100 m or more of the plaque obtained by drawing before performing the alkali weight reduction treatment is collected, and the filaments constituting the yarn are divided into a thick denier filament group and a fine denier filament group. The weight of the thick denier filament group is measured, and the result is divided by the number of filaments in the thick denier filament group to determine the average denier (d / f) of the thick denier filament. The same applies to the fine denier filament group.

Thick denier filament and fine denier
Thickness and detail length and next to the filament
Total length of matching thick part and detail : 20 cm of plaque obtained by drawing before performing the alkali weight reduction treatment is collected, and the filaments constituting the yarn are divided into a thick denier filament group and a fine denier filament group. Take a microphotograph (100-500 times) of the thick denier filament, measure the length of the thick part and the length of the details adjacent to it from the photograph, and measure the length of the thick part and the adjacent thick part and details. And the total length. The same applies to fine denier filaments.

Judgment of the number of stages of lightness in section of the yarn : Three or more yarns are aligned and passed through a 1 mm thick copper plate hole along with black yarn rayon, and cut at right angles in the length direction. Microscope (Nikon AFX-IIA; light intensity PHOTO level)
Are taken at 250 × magnification (using an ASA100 film), and the number of steps of the cross-sectional lightness is visually determined from the micrograph. Normally, the number of stages can be clearly determined with the naked eye, but when it is difficult to determine, the determination is made using the gray scale of JIS L-0805. If the photograph is blurred at the point of contact with the black colored rayon, the determination is made by excluding one outermost filament.

Judgment of the number of steps of the cross-sectional area of the yarn: The number of steps of the cross-sectional area is visually determined by a micrograph of the cross section of the yarn obtained at the time of determining the number of steps of the cross-sectional lightness of the yarn.

The bulkiness of the polyester multifilament yarn
Degree K : Determined as follows in accordance with JIS L-1090. The stretched polyester plaque before the alkali weight reduction treatment is collected in a skein of 1.125 m to obtain 120,000 denier. This sample is treated with hot water at 100 ° C. for 10 minutes. After the treatment, it is dried with dry heat of 60 ° C., width 1 cm × height 4
A box measuring 4 cm in length and 4 cm in length is cut at both ends and filled. While pressing the lid of the box with an Instron device, the volume V (cm ³ ) when the load including the lid was 6 g was determined, and the weight W (g) of the yarn in the box at that time was measured. ;

[0051]

## EQU4 ## The bulk height K is obtained from K (cm ³ / g) = V (cm ³ ) / W (g).

Number of cut fluff : An arbitrary 10 cm of a stretched multifilament mottled yarn (in the case of a fabric, unwound from the fabric) after the alkali weight reduction treatment was collected, and 30
The number of cut fluffs is read from a micrograph of up to × 50, and this is repeated 10 times (n = 10) to determine the average number of cut fluffs. The average number of fluff is multiplied by 10 and 1m
The number of fluff per hit.

<< Example 1 >> (1) 8% by weight of barium sulfate having an average particle size of 0.6 μm
The polyethylene terephthalate of [η] = 0.63 contained was divided into a split die as shown in FIG.
Using the 36 holes on the right), adjust the discharge rate to 12 holes:
36 holes side = spinning at a weight ratio of 2: 3, spinning speed 1800 m / min, oil agent (oleyl oleate 50 parts, nonionic activator 10 parts, POE adduct 20 parts, anion activator 10 parts, amine oxide 10 parts) ) To give a polyester denier mixed multifilament undrawn yarn (140d / 48f) having an elongation at break of 246%. At this time, the elongation of the thick denier filament group was 285%, and the elongation of the thin denier filament group was 237%.

(2) Next, the undrawn yarn obtained in the above (1) is preheated at a hot roller temperature of 50 ° C., then drawn at a draw ratio of 1.90, and heat set at a hot roller temperature of 120 ° C. The polyester yarn of the present invention having an elongation of 60% and having a length of 75d / 48f was obtained.

In the polyester plaque obtained above, the thick part of the fine denier filament group has a length of 50 μm to 3 mm.
, And the total length of adjacent thick portions and details was also random in the range of 100 μm to 7 cm. On the other hand, in the thick denier filament group, the length of the thick portion is random in the range of 20 μm to 800 μm (the ratio of the thick portion exceeding 400 μm is about 10%), and the total length of the adjacent thick portion and detail is It was random in the range of 30 μm to 5 mm (approximately 2 mm
Percent). In this polyester plaque, the average denier of the thick denier filament group constituting the yarn is 2.5%.
d / f, the average denier of the fine denier filament group was 1.2 d / f. And there was always a void in the details of the filament.

The cross section of the polyester plaque was photographed with an optical microscope as described above.
As shown in the photograph attached to FIG. 3, the filaments constituting the yarn had six levels of cross-sectional brightness and six levels of cross-sectional area. Further, the bulk altitude K of this polyester mottled yarn was 23 cm ³ / g. At this time, each filament in the multifilament drawn yarn is well separated, and the number of crimps of each filament is 2 to 2
At 5 pieces / inch, the crimped shape was random.

(3) The polyester plaque obtained in the above (2) is knitted in a tube with a 20 gauge knitting machine, sufficiently refined, and then poured into a 1 N caustic soda solution at 90 ° C. to obtain 15%
Was processed for weight loss. After drying, check the fluff,
It occurs on average in the length direction of the yarn, and the number is about 12
It was 00 pieces / m. And the polyester plaque having the fluff of the present invention obtained in Example 1 is natural, but rich in change and bulkiness, as in spun yarn made of natural fibers such as wool and cotton, It had excellent properties such as good feeling, appearance, touch, color tone and the like, which did not make a long-term use.

(4) The polyester plaque obtained in the above (2) was treated with 3% without performing a weight reduction treatment with an alkali.
Twisting was performed at 00 times / m, and weaving was performed with a satin structure (five satin). After the obtained green fabric was sufficiently refined and relaxed, it was dyed under the conditions shown in Table 1 below.

[0059]

[Table 1]

After dyeing, it was thoroughly washed with water and finished at 170 ° C. for 1 minute. The density of the finished product was 220 lines / inch and weft 125 lines / inch. The obtained dough had a good feeling and touch with stiffness and swelling, and exhibited a solid heather tone with a slight color difference. Also, when I went through the sunlight, I saw random thick spots.

<< Example 2 >> (1) The content of barium sulfate was 5% by weight, the number of holes on the left side was 9 holes and the number of holes on the right side was 36 as the split die. The spinning was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ratio was changed to 2: 3, to obtain an undrawn yarn (140d / 45f) having a breaking elongation of 252%. At this time, the elongation of the thick denier filament group was 292%, and the elongation of the thin denier filament group was 238%.

(2) After pre-heating the undrawn yarn obtained in the above (1) at a hot roller temperature of 35 ° C., a draw ratio of 2.0
It is stretched by a factor of three, heat set at a hot roller temperature of 120 ° C. and wound up, and the polyester mottle (7) of the present invention having an elongation of 50% is obtained.
0d / 45f). This polyester plaque had the properties shown in Table 2 below.

[0063]

[Table 2] Characteristics of polyester plaque obtained in (2) above ○ Thick denier filament group : Thick part length: random in the range of 40 μm to 800 μm Total length of thick part and details: random in the range of 60 μm to 7 mm Average denier: 3.1 d / f ○ Fine denier filament group : thick part length : Random in the range of 50 μm to 4 mm Total length of thick part and detail: random in the range of 100 μm to 7 cm Average denier: 1.1 d / f ○ Sectional brightness : 6 levels ○ Cross- sectional area : 6 levels ○ Bulk altitude K : 15 % ○ Number of crimps : 1 to 21 pieces / inch, random shape

(3) The polyester plaque obtained in the above (2) was knitted in a cylinder in the same manner as in Example 1 and subjected to alkali weight reduction processing. The number of fluffs was confirmed.
m, and the fluff of the yarn was present on average in the length direction of the yarn.

Comparative Example 1 (1) In the same manner as in Example 1, using a polyethylene terephthalate of [η] = 0.63 containing 8% by weight of barium sulfate having an average particle diameter of 0.6 μm, a uniform 36 Using a spinneret having multiple spinning holes, a spinning speed of 1800 m / min,
The yarn was spun under the condition of an oil adhesion amount of 1.0% by weight to obtain a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn (190d / 36f) having a breaking elongation of 250%.

(2) Next, the undrawn yarn obtained in the above (1) was drawn under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio was set to 1.87, to obtain a 100d / 36f multifilament drawn yarn. Was. The drawn polyester yarn of Comparative Example 1 is a thick and thin yarn in which the thick portion and the details of each filament are located side by side, and the length of the thick portion in the filament is almost uniform in the range of 15 cm to 17 cm. Also, the total length of adjacent thick part and detail is 30cm ~ 33c
m, did not disperse among the filaments, and there were thick portions and details in local portions of the yarn. When the cross section of the drawn yarn was photographed with a microscope as described above, the lightness of the filament constituting the yarn was four stages and the cross-sectional area was three stages. Area / minimum filament cross-sectional area = 3.3. The bulk height K of the drawn yarn was 18 cm ³ / g, but the thick portion of the yarn was converged and hardened after the heat treatment. The crimp was slightly observed in the non-converged portion, and the number of crimps was 0 to 3 / inch. Although the number of crimps is small, the reason why the value of the bulk height K is large is presumed to be that the convergence portions overlap each other during measurement and the number of voids increases.

(3) The drawn yarn obtained in the above (2) is
The tube was knitted with a 0-gauge knitting machine and boiled for 10 minutes. However, the knitted fabric did not exhibit bulkiness, and was almost the same thickness as before the boiling. Further, the knitted fabric was continuously poured into a 1N caustic soda solution at 90 ° C. to perform a 15% weight reduction process.
No generation of fluff was observed, and a 30% alkali weight loss treatment resulted in perforations in the tubular knitted fabric. (4) The drawn yarn obtained in the above (2) was used in Example 1.
Weaved and dyed in the same manner as described above. The obtained dyed fabric had a strong heather appearance.

<Comparative Example 2> 75d / 4 obtained by spinning and stretching in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the content of barium sulfate was changed to 1% by weight.
The drawn yarn of 5f is a so-called thick and thin yarn in which the thick portion and the detail exist at the same period along the length direction of the yarn, and the thick and fine spots are not randomly and finely dispersed throughout the yarn. Was. In the drawn polyester yarn of Comparative Example 2, the length of the thick portion in the filament is 5 cm to 10 cm.
And the total length of the adjacent thick part and detail is 10c.
m to 20 cm, did not disperse among the filaments, and there were thick portions and details in the local part of the yarn. The bulk height K of the drawn yarn was 18 cm ³ / g, but the thick portion of the yarn was converged and hardened after the heat treatment. The crimp was slightly observed in the non-converged portion, and the number of crimps was 0 to 3 / inch. Although the number of crimps is small, the reason why the value of the bulk height K is large is presumed to be that the convergence portions overlap each other during measurement and the number of voids increases. Further, when the fabric was manufactured and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, the thick portion of the yarn was deeply dyed, the details were lightly dyed, and a clear spot was formed in two colors.

[0069]

According to the polyester plaque of the present invention, the filament yarn is not composed of a single denier filament, but is composed of two kinds of filament groups having different deniers. In the case of thick and thin filaments whose diameter changes in the direction, and the length and period of the thick and fine spots in the thick and thin denier filaments are finely shifted and dispersed throughout the yarn, the conventional thick and thin filaments are dispersed. Compared to filament yarn with fine spots, it is extremely diverse and varied, is not monotonous and flat, yet has natural and very good properties such as bulkiness, feeling, appearance and touch. are doing. In particular,
The polyester plaques of the present invention having at least 500 fluffs / m are mere drawn yarns that have not been subjected to bulky processing such as false twisting, indentation crimping, and knit denitration. It has the same bulkiness as a yarn that has been subjected to bulk processing, and has fluff like a spun yarn, and it is natural, but changes and bulkiness as in a spun yarn made of natural fibers such as wool and cotton. It has excellent properties such as good feeling, appearance, touch, and color tone that will not give up even after long use.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a method for measuring the length of a thick part and a detail in a filament, and a method for measuring the total length of an adjacent thick part and a detail.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing an example of a spinneret used for producing the polyester multifilament yarn (polyester mottled yarn) of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a photograph taken by a microscope of a cross section of the polyester plaque obtained according to Example 1 of the present invention.

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification code FI D02J 1/22 D02J 1/22 M D03D 15/00 D03D 15/00 J (56) References JP-A-1-148825 (JP, A) JP-A-61-28042 (JP, A) JP-A-55-1333 (JP, A) JP-A-60-21939 (JP, A) JP-A-2-242936 (JP, A) -55224 (JP, A) JP-A-2-99636 (JP, A) JP-A-62-45741 (JP, A) JP-A-59-94617 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. . ^7, DB name) D02G 3/34 D01F 6/62 D01F 6/92 D02J 1/22 D03D 15/00

Claims (8)

(57) [Claims] 1. A polyester plaque that has the following properties:
(a) to (e); (a) a denier-mixed polyester multifilament yarn including a thick denier filament having thick and thin spots in the length direction and a fine denier filament having thick and thin spots in the length direction; (b) In the thick denier filament, the length of the thick portion is mainly 1 mm or less, and the total length of the adjacent thick portion and the details is 1 cm or less; (c) In the thin denier filament, the thick portion is mainly 5 mm or less and the adjacent thick portion. (D) When one arbitrary cross section of the yarn is observed with an optical microscope, the cross-sectional brightness and cross-sectional area of each filament are three or more steps. (E) a bulk height K represented by the following formula is 10 to 35 cm ^3;
K (cm ³ / g) = V (cm ³ ) / W (g) where: V: volume of yarn after heat treatment at 100 ° C. for 10 minutes (c
m ³ ) W: the weight (g) of the yarn used in the above heat treatment; 2. The polyester mottled yarn according to claim 1, further comprising the following characteristics (a) to (e); and (f) having at least 500 fluff / m. 3. The polyester yarn of claim 1 or 2, wherein the average denier of the fine denier filament is 1.5 denier or less, and the average denier of the thick denier filament is 4.0 or less. 4. A fabric comprising the polyester plaques according to claim 1. 5. A denier-mixed multifilament yarn of an undrawn fine denier filament and an undrawn thick denier filament formed from a polyester or copolyester containing 4 to 10% by weight of inorganic fine particles having an average particle size of 1.0 μm or less. At a preheating temperature of 35 to 55 ° C., a draw ratio = {(D / 100) +1} × (0.5 to 0.6) (where D = elongation at break of the multifilament yarn) and a heat setting temperature of 110 to 140 ° C. The method for producing a polyester mottled yarn according to claim 1, wherein the drawing is carried out under the following conditions. 6. The method according to claim 5, wherein the elongation difference between the undrawn fine denier filament and the undrawn thick denier filament is 30 to 80%. 7. The stretching treatment is carried out in a state where an oil agent having a fiber / fiber dynamic friction coefficient of the drawn polyester yarn of 0.29 or less is attached to the denier mix multifilament yarn at 0.8% by weight or more. The manufacturing method of 5 or 6. 8. A method for performing an alkali weight reduction treatment after forming into a thread state or a fabric after the stretching treatment according to claim 5.