JPH11117139A - Bulky lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a bulky lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric having a refreshing lineny touch feeling with resiliency due to the compositing of a thick and thin yarn capable of diversifying color tones. SOLUTION: This bulky lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric is composed of a combined filament yarn or a composite yarn obtained by using a yarn prepared by carrying out the thick and thin texturing of a high-elongation polyester filament yarn composed of hollow and modified cross section single filaments having 100-150% elongation and 15-30% hollowness as a sheath yarn and a highly heat shrinkable polyester filament yarn having 7-30% shrinkage percentage in boiling water and/or a cation-dyeable polyester filament yarn as a core yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric of a composite yarn including a polyester thick and thin yarn, and more particularly to a bulky and lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric having a cool linen touch.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Thick and thin yarns comprising multifilament yarns such as polyester fibers and nylon fibers composed of thick single yarns have a color tone difference mixing effect due to the difference in the density of dyeing that appears in the thick and thin portions. It is used in the production of heather-like knitted fabrics. There is also known an attempt to obtain a knitted fabric having both a composite false twisting effect and a color tone difference effect by using a false twisted yarn of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber thick and thin yarn such as a polyester fiber.

[0003] Composite processing such as blending of filament yarn and composite false twisting is performed by combining two or more types of filament yarns having different properties such as single yarn shape or size, heat shrinkage, crimpability, etc. It has been widely used as a method for improving the defects of synthetic fiber knitted fabrics such as nylon and polyester fibers, which enables creation of a knitted fabric having an appearance and texture such as touch, tension, waist, and bulkiness.

Japanese Patent No. 2,538,735 discloses that an isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 5 to 20% is used as a core yarn and a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 1 is used as a sheath yarn.
Using POY's thick and thin yarn of 0% or less,
A wool-like woven fabric having a high-quality color balance of bulkiness and resilience, which is obtained through weaving and alkali reduction processing by imparting a medium to strong twist to the air-entangled entangled composite yarn, is disclosed.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a bulky and lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric having a resilient and refreshing linen texture by combining thick and thin yarns capable of diversifying colors. I do.

[0006]

The object of the present invention is to provide an elongation of 1
A yarn obtained by processing a high elongation polyester multifilament yarn composed of a single yarn having a hollow shape with a hollow ratio of 00 to 150% and a hollow ratio of 15 to 30% by thick and thin processing as a sheath yarn,
This is achieved by a bulky and lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric composed of a mixed fiber or a composite yarn having a high heat shrinkable polyester multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 7 to 30% and / or a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn as a core yarn.

The thick and thin yarn used in the present invention has a hollowness of 15 to 100% and an elongation of 150%.
It is a yarn obtained by thick and thin processing of a high elongation polyester multifilament yarn composed of a single yarn having a hollow cross section of up to 30%. Here, the high elongation yarn is called so-called semi-drawn or POY (partially oriented yarn), and is formed by melt-extruding a fiber-forming polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate and 2,000 to 450.
A semi-oriented polyester multifilament yarn prepared by drawing at a speed of 0 m / min, preferably 2000 to 3000 m / min.

The filament single yarn constituting the high elongation polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a hollow section having a hollow ratio of 15 to 30%. Here, the hollow ratio is a percentage of the hollow void portion occupying the area of the single yarn cross section, and the number of hollow voids may be one or plural. In addition, the section of a single yarn is an irregular cross section means that the cross section of a single yarn is rectangular, square, triangular (including trilobal),
A non-circular shape such as a Y shape or a cross shape is a typical example. It is preferable that the irregular shape is a triangular (including trilobal) or Y-shaped cross section to give the fabric an elegant luster.

The sheath yarn used in the present invention is obtained by processing the high elongation polyester multifilament yarn into a thick and thin yarn. Thick and thin yarn is usually
Insert the high elongation yarn with a hot (hot) pin or hot (hot)
After stretching through a plate at a stretching ratio of 1.1 to 1.6 times, it can be prepared by a relaxation heat treatment. Here, the temperature of the hot pin or hot plate is
It is selected in the range of 50 to 150 ° C. The desired lengths of the thick part and the thin part of the thick and thin yarn can be adjusted by selecting a hot pin (hot plate) and a draw ratio.

The length of the thick portion and the thin portion of the thick and thin yarn is 1 to 20 cm, preferably 2 to 15 cm. The elongation of the thick and thin yarn is 80 to 160%, and the fineness of the yarn is 2 to 6 denier (d), preferably 2 to 5 d. The thick and thin yarn is a portion in which the thick portion is dyed darker than the thin portion by dyeing. One of the high heat shrinkable polyester multifilament yarns having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 7 to 30% used as the core yarn in the present invention may be a homopolymer or copolymer of polyethylene terephthalate, but two different polyester fibers are used. Is preferably a polyester-based non-swirl crimped yarn formed in parallel or eccentric arrangement and close contact with each other over the entire length. JP-B-51-37376 discloses that such a composite polyester non-twirling crimped yarn has one component (a) which is a polyester having at least 85 mol% or more of polyethylene terephthalate repeating units, and the other component ( b) is 1.0 to 25.0 mol% of 2,2 bis [4- (2hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] based on the acid component in the polyester of the component (a).
An example of a polyester non-swirl crimped yarn which is a polyester obtained by copolymerizing propane is described.

Another high heat shrinkable polyester multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 7 to 30% is a polyester multifilament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye. As a typical example of the cationic dyeable polyester fiber, a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing ethylene terephthalate with an acid group-containing ester-forming compound such as a metal salt sulfonate group such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and sodium sulfonaphthalenedicarboxylic acid is used as ethylene terephthalate. Modified polyesters copolymerized by about 0.5 to 3.5 mol can be mentioned.

As described above, the high heat shrinkable polyester multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 7 to 30% used as the core yarn has a single yarn fineness of 2 to 6 denier, preferably 3 to 5 denier, and a total fineness of about It is preferred to be 50 denier or more. The mixing ratio of the sheath yarn and the core yarn in the mixed yarn or the false-twisted composite yarn of the sheath yarn and the core yarn is 2
0: 80-80: 20, preferably 30: 70-70:
30. As the total fineness of mixed fiber and composite yarn,
The range of 60 to 200 denier is appropriate, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio is 3
It should be about 0% or less.

The mixed fiber is obtained by doubling the sheath yarn and the core yarn, or separately feeding the mixed yarn to the fiber mixing means. At this time, the sheath yarn is mixed with the core yarn at an equal feed speed or with an overfeed of about 10% or less. As the fiber mixing means, air fiber mixing is appropriate, and interlace fiber mixing and Taslan type fiber mixing are suitably used as means. The mixed fiber thus obtained is subjected to dry heat (120 to 200 ° C.) or wet heat (100 to 130 ° C.) heat relaxation treatment, and the surface layer is covered with a rich layer of thick and thin yarn. A two-layered bulky yarn having a texture is obtained.

The false-twisted composite yarn is obtained by double-twisting a mixed yarn or a sheath yarn and a core yarn obtained by applying the above-described mixing method (omitting the relaxation heat treatment) to the sheath yarn and the core yarn. To be prepared. The above-mentioned yarn is heated with a false twisting temperature of 120 to 200 ° C. under a false twisting temperature of 120 to 200 ° C. by applying false twisting means of a false twist spinner method, a friction method and a swirling flow method. Perform false twisting at times / m. Thus, a resilient two-layered false twisted crimped yarn having a surface layer covered with a rich layer of thick and thin yarn is obtained.

The bulky and lightweight polyester woven fabric of the present invention is woven into plain or twill or satin woven fabrics by a general-purpose loom or weaving method through the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarn or composite false twist yarn, and into a weaving method. It is prepared by The weaving density of the woven fabric of the present invention depends on the structure of the woven fabric, the fineness of the mixed fiber, the composite yarn, and the residual boiling water shrinkage. In the case of the twill woven fabric, the fineness of the yarn and the residual shrinkage are 135 denier and 7%, respectively. In this case, the longitudinal and weft densities are respectively 60 to 200 lines /
The setting of 2.54 cm and 50 to 120 lines / 2.54 cm is a standard for maintaining the fabric with a proper drape property.

After weaving, the fabric is subjected to a relaxing heat treatment,
If necessary, before or after relaxation, alkali weight reduction treatment is performed at a desired weight loss rate. In this case, the alkali weight loss rate is determined so as not to impair resilience, and is selected from the range of about 5 to 15%. Subsequently, the textile is dyed by a general-purpose method using a disperse dye and, if necessary, a cationic dye.
Dyeing at a slightly lower temperature (105 to 120 ° C.) can enhance the heather effect.

Further, the woven fabric of the present invention may have a water absorbing agent, a water repellent agent, a heat storage agent, an ultraviolet ray shielding or absorbing agent, an antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, an insect repellent, a luminous agent, a recurring agent, depending on the use and use form. The function may be imparted by various processes such as a reflective agent.

[0018]

The polyester fiber woven fabric of the present invention has a resilient and refreshing linen texture and a light bulkiness effect. The high elongation polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn composed of a single hollow yarn having a high hollowness has no twist. This is due to the effect that the woven fabric is composed of a two-layered mixed fiber or a composite false twisted yarn arranged on the core with a coated surface layer formed in a state and a shrinkable fiber bundle of a high heat shrinkable multifilament. It is the action of the highly heat shrinkable fiber bundles of the high heat shrink multifilaments that gives the fabric a repulsive effect.

[0019] The refreshing linen texture is due to the action of forming an irregular thick and thin structure formed in a hollow single-section yarn having a high hollow ratio and a hollow shape, which constitutes the thick and thin yarn. This irregular thick-and-thin structure-forming effect is that the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is further complicatedly deformed by the tension deformation during false twisting, and this further cross-sectional deformation forms a fine air layer within the yarn and between the single yarns And it gives a more refreshing linen texture. The light weight and bulkiness effects are as follows: the high hollowness of the constituent single yarn and the bulky and light weight action of the hollow and modified single yarn, and the structure of the filament that constitutes the core used as the core material. It is due to chemical action. And
The cationic dyeable polyester yarn in the core has an effect of giving a deep color to the overall color tone of the dyed fabric.

[0020]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. In the following examples, the evaluation of the texture was performed by touch feeling, the appearance was evaluated by visual observation, and the evaluation was performed with 15 panels, and the positive evaluation of 12 panels was evaluated as effective. The evaluation of the appearance and feel of the woven fabric was all performed on the dyed woven fabric. In the examples, dyeing of the woven fabric was performed by the following method and conditions.

[0021] 110 ° C. at a bath ratio of 1:50 by a dyeing solution / liquid dyeing of a woven fabric containing no cationic dyeable polyester fiber.
Stained. The fabric containing the cationically dyeable polyester fiber was dyed at 150 ° C. in a two-stage bath at a bath ratio of 1:50 by dyeing and liquid dyeing. [Example 1] Polyester multifilament yarn of 75d / 15f was used as a core yarn, and a POY triangular cross-section hollow having a ductility of 120% and a boiling water shrinkage of 73% (hollowness: 22)
%) Thick and thin yarn prepared from the yarn (60d / 12f) was used. Thick and thin yarn is obtained by drawing the POY triangular cross section hollow fiber through a hot pin at 120 ° C. to a draw ratio of 1.5 times, and then stretching the hollow fiber at 180 ° C. in a hollow heater.
It was a thick and thick yarn having an extremely long thick part, prepared by performing a heat relaxation treatment at 8 times.

After the core yarn and the thick and thin yarn were mixed, false twisting was performed at a heater temperature of 145 ° C., a number of twists of 2450 T / M, and a feed rate of −0.6. The obtained mixed-fiber false twist yarn was a processed yarn having a composite structure in which a thick and thin yarn was extremely emphasized around a core yarn. The composite structure processed yarn was woven by an L pier loom and dyed under the above-mentioned conditions to obtain a dobby woven fabric. This woven fabric (warp density 126 yarns / 2.54 cm, weft yarn density 69 yarns / 2.54 cm)
It had a long appearance and color tone in which the thick (thick) portion of the thick and thin yarn was expressed on the surface of the woven fabric, and was light in weight and characterized by a refreshing feeling. [Example 2] 75d / 2 with a boiling water shrinkage of 8% as a core yarn
Using the 4d cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn as the sheath yarn and the thick and thin yarn described in Example 1, the blended yarn described in Example 1 is applied followed by the false twisting method to prepare a composite yarn. did.

A woven fabric obtained by using this composite yarn as a raw yarn for woven fabric and weaving it under the same conditions as in Example 1 and dyeing it under the preceding conditions is provided on the surface of the woven fabric with a thick part of thick and thin yarn ( The darkness is long, the appearance and color tone are expressed, the bulkiness is due to the difference in shrinkage from the highly shrinkable cationic yarn, the heather effect is due to the cation heterochromatic dyeing effect. A woven fabric with distinctive characteristics was obtained. Example 3 POY having 75% / 12f side-by-side type polyester conjugate filament yarn as the core yarn, 120% elongation as the sheath yarn, and 73% boiling water shrinkage.
Triangular cross section hollow (hollow ratio: 22%) yarn (60d / 12f)
After passing through a hot pin at 90 ° C. and stretching at a stretching ratio of 15.5%, a heat relaxation treatment is performed at 1.5 times in a hollow heater at 150 ° C., and the thick part has an appropriate length of light dyeing by light color dyeing. Thick and thin yarn was used.

After the above-mentioned thick and thin yarn was mixed with the core yarn, false twisting was performed at a heater temperature of 175 ° C., a number of twists of 2200 T / M, and a feed rate of −2.5. The obtained mixed fiber false twist yarn was a composite processed yarn in which a thick and thin yarn was extremely emphasized around a core yarn. A woven fabric was obtained using the composite processed yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1. This woven fabric is dyed under the following dyeing conditions, and the entire surface of the woven fabric is darkly dyed, and the thick portion of the sheath yarn is lightly dyed with an appropriate length and presents a top-dyed dyed fabric having a different color. was gotten. This dyed fabric was lightweight, rich in coolness, and had appropriate stretchability due to the self-crimping property of the conjugate. [Example 4] A POY triangular cross section having a core yarn of 75d / 24f cationic shrinkable dyeable polyester yarn (boiling water shrinkage: 8%) and a sheath yarn of 120% elongation and a boiling water shrinkage of 73%. 60 (hollow ratio: 22%) yarn (60d / 12f)
After passing through a hot pin at a stretching ratio of 17.5%,
A thick and thick yarn of an appropriate length, which is obtained by performing a natural stretching heat treatment with a plate heater at 80 ° C. and dyeing a thick portion by dyeing, was used.

The above-mentioned thick and thin yarn was mixed with the core yarn. This mixed yarn was a coated yarn in which the high shrinkage cationic yarn of the core yarn and the thick and thick yarn were mixed with almost the same yarn length difference. Using this composite yarn, a woven fabric was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 2. This fabric is dyed under the following dyeing conditions, and the thick part is deeply dyed on the surface of the fabric, but the thick part of the thick and thin yarn is dyed deeply with a suitable length, and is a highly shrinkable cationic dyeable dye. There was a bulkiness due to a difference in shrinkage from the polyester yarn and a heather effect due to cationic heterochromatic dyeing, and a top-dyed woven fabric was obtained. This dyed fabric was lightweight and had a refreshing feeling.

[0026]

As described above, the present invention relates to a two-layer structure in which a high elongation polyester filament thick and thin yarn composed of a hollow, irregularly shaped single yarn is arranged on the surface layer and a heat-shrinkable filament bundle is arranged on the core. By using the mixed yarn or the composite false twist yarn having the structure as the weft, it is possible to obtain a lightweight bulky woven fabric having a resilient and refreshing linen texture, which can diversify the color tone.

The above-mentioned textile performance by the textile of the present invention is useful as a base textile material for suits, jackets and outer light clothing for women, especially for spring and summer.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. An elongation of 100 to 150% and a hollowness of 1
A high heat shrinkable polyester multifilament yarn having a hollow water shrinkage of 7 to 30% and a yarn obtained by subjecting a high elongation polyester multifilament yarn composed of a hollow yarn having a modified cross section to a thick and thin process to a sheath yarn. And / or a bulky and lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric composed of a blended or composite yarn having a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn as a core yarn. 2. The high heat shrinkable polyester multifilament yarn is a non-swirl crimped yarn.
High-bulk polyester fiber fabric. 3. The bulky and lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the thick and thin processed yarn forms a coating layer structure of a composite yarn in a non-twist state. 4. The bulky and lightweight polyester fiber woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn is a composite false twist yarn.