JP2000119933A - Production of highly color-developing silky woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a highly color-developing silky woven fabric having a tension, body and puff feeling, and excellent in deep dyeing effect. SOLUTION: This highly color-developing silky woven fabric is obtain by weaving with a mixed fiber-interlaced yarn of a potentially crimping conjugate multifilament yarn becoming >=50% crimping after a boiling water treatment and a modified cross-section conjugate multifilament yarn having 70×10-3-120×10-3 birefringence, <=5% boiling water shrinkage and forming a cross section of an uneven shape by an alkali treatment, and then applying dyeing and finishing treatments including the alkali treatment.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a silky fabric having high coloring properties, which has a feeling of tightness, swelling and swelling, and is excellent in deep dyeing effect.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art With the recent trend toward high-end products, there is a demand in the field of clothing as well for a high color-forming fabric which is excellent not only in silky feel but also in tension and deep-dyeing effect.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. Hei 5-209337 discloses, for the purpose of improving the deep dyeing effect, tension, and waist, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Hei 5-209337, which discloses a method of producing a highly oriented unstretched polyester yarn by false twisting with a fluid swirling nozzle. It is disclosed that a composite yarn is used in combination with another drawn yarn having a high shrinkage. However, there is a problem that the woven fabric obtained by the yarn obtained by this method lacks silky feeling.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Hei 8-100366 discloses a low elongation made of a polyester filament having an uneven cross section by alkali treatment, for the purpose of improving the silky feeling and the deep dyeing effect. , A highly dyeable processed yarn having a low degree of orientation is disclosed. However, the yarn woven fabric obtained by this method has a problem that it is tight and lacks a feeling of waist and swelling.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned circumstances, and provides a method for producing a high-color-forming silky fabric having a tightness, a waist and a swelling feeling, and an excellent deep dyeing effect. The task is to provide.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems, and comprises a latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn having a crimp rate of 50% or more after boiling water treatment, and a birefringence index. Is 70 × 10 ^{−3 to} 120 × 10 ⁻³ , the boiling water shrinkage is 5% or less, and the mixed and entangled yarn with the modified composite multifilament yarn having a cross-sectional shape formed by alkali treatment is warp. The present invention provides a method for producing a highly color-forming silky woven fabric, which comprises performing weaving using a weft yarn and / or dyeing including alkali treatment.

[0007]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[0008] In the present invention, the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn having a crimp ratio of 50% or more after boiling water treatment, a birefringence of 70 × 10 ^{-3 to} 120 × 10 ^-3 , A mixed fiber entangled yarn with a modified composite multifilament yarn having a water shrinkage of 5% or less and a cross-sectional shape forming an uneven shape by alkali treatment is used.

A latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn having a crimp ratio of 50% or more after boiling water treatment is obtained by joining two kinds of polyesters having different heat shrinkage properties in a side-by-side type or in an eccentric core-sheath type. This is a composite multifilament yarn spun and spun, and has a crimp rate of 50% or more after boiling water treatment measured by the following method.

[0010] The crimp ratio after the boiling water treatment is measured by the following method. Double the composite multifilament yarn skeined five times with a measuring machine, suspend it on a stand under a load of 1/6000 g / d, leave it for 30 minutes, and put it in boiling water while maintaining this state. Leave for 30 minutes, then air dry for 30 minutes,
Measure the length a by applying a load of 0 g / d, and then reduce the load to 1/20
The length b is measured by applying a load of g / d, and the crimping rate (%) after the boiling water treatment is determined by the following equation. Crimp rate after boiling water treatment = [(ba)] × 100

Examples of combinations of two types of polyesters having different heat shrinkage characteristics include those having different viscosities of polyethylene terephthalate, and those having a higher heat shrinkage by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate with a third component. There is matching.

The crimp rate after such boiling water treatment is 50%.
By using the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn described above, latent crimp becomes apparent due to heat treatment in the finishing step after weaving, and it becomes possible to stretch the woven fabric and impart a feeling of firmness and swelling.

[0013] If the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn has a crimping ratio of less than 50% after boiling water treatment, even if heat treatment is performed in the finishing step, the crimp developing power is poor, and the fabric has sufficient tension and tightness. And a swelling feeling cannot be imparted.

In the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn, the fineness of a single filament is preferably 3 denier or more in order to further emphasize the tension and waist of the woven fabric. It is preferable that the boiling water shrinkage ratio is 3% or more larger than that of the multifilament yarn, because the different shrinkage effect is exhibited.

In the present invention, the other constituent yarn of the mixed fiber entangled yarn has a birefringence of 70 × 10 ^{−3 to} 120 × 10 ^3.
-3 , a modified composite multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 5% or less and a cross-sectional shape that forms an uneven shape by alkali treatment is used. The modified composite multifilament yarn is, for example, as shown in FIG. 1, a yarn obtained by compound-spinning by disposing two components of a readily soluble component α and a slightly soluble component β which are polymers having different solubility in a solvent such as an alkali. Yes, by treating with a solvent such as an alkali, an uneven shape having a plurality of projections continuous in the fiber axis direction is formed on the surface of the filament as shown in FIG. In order to exhibit the color developing property and silky feeling effect of the present invention, it is preferable that the filament has a cross-sectional shape that finally forms an uneven shape having 10 to 35 protrusions on the surface of the filament.

The combination of the easily soluble component and the hardly soluble component in the polyester is mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate as the hardly soluble component and ethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing the third component having an alkali metal sulfonic acid as the easily soluble component. It is expedient to use polyesters which are not.

The modified composite multifilament yarn has a birefringence of 70 × 10 ^{−3 to} 120 × 10 ⁻³ , preferably 90 × 10 ^{−3 to} 110 × 10 ⁻³ and a boiling water shrinkage of 5 × 10 ^−3. % Or less. Such a yarn is a low-orientation yarn in which the progress of the orientation is suppressed as much as possible, the dye exhaustion rate is high, and the yarn is excellent in deep dyeing. When the birefringence is less than 70 × 10 ^-3 ,
It is not preferable because the yarn quality tends to change over time and the quality tends to vary due to processing. The birefringence is 120 ×
If it exceeds 10 ^-3 , the internal structure of the fiber becomes highly oriented, and it becomes difficult for the dye to enter the inside of the fiber, so that the deep dyeing effect cannot be expected. Further, by using a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 5% or less, a swelling feeling can be imparted to the woven fabric after finishing. If the boiling water shrinkage exceeds 5%, it will be difficult to provide a difference in shrinkage characteristics from the above-described latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn to be blended, and the deformed composite multifilament yarn will be woven during finishing. Inside it, it is impossible to produce a swelling effect or a deep dyeing effect.

The birefringence is 70 × 10 ^{-3 to} 120 × 10 ^-3
In the modified composite multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 5% or less, the two components of the easily soluble component α and the slightly soluble component β arranged as shown in FIG. 1 were subjected to composite spinning at a spinning speed of 3000 to 3500 m / min. It can be obtained by stretching a highly oriented undrawn yarn by about 1.1 times and heat-treating it. This stretching and heat treatment may be performed while false twisting with a false twisting machine. The false twisting conditions in this case are as follows: the tension in the twisting and untwisting areas is 0.05 to 0.15 g / d, and the number of false twists is 700 to 12
The processing may be performed by setting the temperature range to 00 t / m so as not to fuse.

The blending of the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn and the irregularly shaped composite multifilament yarn in the present invention is performed by a fluid disruption process. An interlace nozzle that can be provided, a Taslan nozzle that can provide a loop, sag, or confounding can be used. It is preferable that the overfeed ratio of the modified composite multifilament yarn is set to be equal to or larger than that of the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn from the viewpoint of improving the deep dyeing effect.

In the present invention, weaving is performed using the above-described mixed entangled yarn of the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn and the modified composite multifilament yarn as a warp and / or a weft.
That is, weaving is performed using this mixed entangled yarn as both a warp and a weft, or weaving is performed using either a warp or a weft. Other yarns used for either the warp or the weft are not particularly limited, and the woven structure and the density are not limited. However, when dyed black, L
^{* In} the case of deep color staining such that the value is 12 or less,
It is preferable to use this mixed fiber entangled yarn for both warp and weft yarns.

When weaving the above-mentioned mixed fiber entangled yarn, it may be used as it is after the fiber mixing step, or may be used after additional twisting if necessary.

The finishing process in the present invention is usually carried out in a process such as relaxation and scouring → elution of easily soluble components → drying → presetting → reducing alkali → dying → drying → final setting. Here, the easily soluble component elution treatment is a step of eluting the easily soluble component of the deformed composite multifilament yarn, and making the cross section of the yarn into an uneven shape. The conditions for this step are set so that the readily soluble components used are sufficiently eluted. Other steps may be set in accordance with the conditions of ordinary polyester fabric. Of course, when performing black dyeing such that the L ^* value is 12 or less, the dye selection, the amount of dye used, and the dyeing conditions should be appropriately set, and the fastness after dyeing should be within the practical range. is necessary.

When weaving and dyeing using the mixed and entangled yarn of the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn and the modified composite multifilament yarn as described above, the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn is crimped. The characteristics become apparent and crimps are developed, and the mixed-fiber entangled yarn becomes a core-sheath structure and the crimps are developed to give a swelling feeling to the fabric, and the easily soluble component of the modified composite multifilament yarn elutes The cross-sectional shape becomes uneven, giving a silky feeling, and at the same time, it exhibits deep dyeing properties due to the moderate looseness of the fiber internal structure.

[0024]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. In the examples, the evaluation of the woven or knitted fabric was performed by the following method. (1) L ^* value The reflectance was measured with an MS-3100 type spectrophotometer manufactured by Macbeth Co., Ltd., and was calculated from the color difference formula of CIE Lab. (2) Silky feeling and swelling feeling of woven fabric. ×: Inferior 2
It was evaluated on a scale.

Example 1 As a latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn, an intrinsic viscosity [η] obtained by copolymerizing 8 mol% of isophthalic acid and 5 mol% of 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane was used. ]
Using a polyester of 0.63 and polyethylene terephthalate of intrinsic viscosity [η] 0.53, a high orientation stretch drawing of 80 denier / 12 filaments which was high-speed composite spinning in a side-by-side type at a weight ratio of 1: 1 was performed at a draw ratio of 1.5 times. A yarn drawn hot at a take-up roll speed of 800 m / min and a heater temperature of 400 ° C. was prepared. This yarn had a rising water shrinkage of 8% and a crimping ratio after boiling water treatment of 90%.

As the modified composite multifilament yarn, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.53 as a hardly soluble component, 2.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an easily soluble component and 12 wt% of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 7000 are used. As shown in FIG. 1, a high-speed composite spinning is performed using a copolymerized polyester so that the filament has a core-sheath structure in which a cross-sectional shape of the filament is divided into a plurality of hardly soluble components in a gear shape. Refractive index (Δ
n) is a high-density undrawn yarn of 75 denier / 24 filaments of 60 × 10 ⁻³ , a supply roll speed of 727 m / min, a take-up roll speed of 800 m / min, a heater temperature of 300 ° C., and a number of false twists of 9
A yarn which was subjected to false twisting by a fluid swirling nozzle under the conditions of 00 t / m and a pressure of a fluid swirling nozzle of 7 kg / cm ² was prepared. The yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of 3% and a birefringence (Δn) of 96.
× 10 ^-3 .

The latent crimping composite multifilament yarn and the deformed composite multifilament yarn are taken off by an air turbulence treatment apparatus equipped with an interlace nozzle at an overfeed of both yarns of 2%, a nozzle air pressure of 5 kg / cm ² , and the like. A mixed fiber entangled yarn is obtained at a roll speed of 784 m / min to obtain a mixed fiber entangled yarn, and S-twist and Z-twist of 1500 t / m are twisted at 80 ° C.
A vacuum twist set of × 45 minutes was performed to obtain a strongly twisted yarn of S twist and Z twist.

The obtained strongly twisted yarn is used for warp and weft in an arrangement of S twist: Z twist = 2: 2, and has a warp density of 110 yarns / inch.
A plain weave having a weft density of 70 yarns / inch was woven. This fabric was dyed and finished in the steps of relaxing and scouring → alkali elution treatment → drying → presetting → alkali reduction → dyeing → drying → final setting to obtain a highly color-forming silky fabric according to the present invention. The obtained woven fabric had an L ^* value of 10, was excellent in swelling and silky feeling, and was a black woven fabric with tightness and waist. The main conditions of each step are as follows. [Relaxation / scouring process] ・ Machine used Liquid jet dyeing machine ・ Temperature × time 120 ° C × 30 minutes ・ Solution Sunmole FL 1g / L Caustic soda 2g / L [Alkali elution treatment process] ・ Machine used Liquid jet dyeing machine ・ Temperature × Time 95 ° C × 30 minutes ・ Solution caustic soda 10g / l [Drying] ・ Machine used Net dryer ・ Temperature × Time 120 ° C × 3 minutes [Preset process] ・ Machine tenter ・ Temperature × Time 190 ° C × 30 seconds [Alkali reduction Process]-Machine used Liquid flow dyeing machine-Temperature x time 95 ° C x 30 minutes-Solution caustic soda 40g / l [Dyeing process]-Machine used Liquid flow dyeing machine-Temperature x time 135 ° C x 40 minutes-Dye bath dye Dianix Black RB-FS 12% owf Dianix Black HG-FS 2.5% owf Nikka Sun Salt SN-130 0.5g / liter Acetic acid 0.2cc / liter Bath ratio 1:30 [Final Tsu door] and use machinery tenter-temperature × time 170 ℃ × 30 seconds

Example 2 Example 1 was repeated, except that the weft was replaced with a mixed entangled yarn, and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.76 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.49 were used at a weight ratio of 1: 1. 1500t / 100 denier / 24 filament drawn by high-speed compound spinning / drawing in side-by-side type
m and S twisting and Z twisting are performed, and a vacuum twisting set is performed at 80 ° C. for 45 minutes to use S twisted and Z twisted strong twisted yarns. The weft density is changed to 70 yarns / inch and 78 yarns / inch. In the same manner as in Example 1 except that the above, a highly color-forming silky fabric according to the present invention was obtained. The obtained woven fabric was a stretchable black woven fabric which had excellent swelling and silky feeling, had stretch and waist, and was provided with elasticity.

Comparative Example 1 In Example 1, a high-density undrawn yarn having a circular cross section of 75 denier / 24 filament spun at high speed only with polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.53 was used instead of the modified composite multifilament yarn. And in the finishing step, except that the alkali elution treatment step is not performed,
In the same manner as in Example 1, a black fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained. The obtained woven fabric had a strong dyeing property, but had a poor silky feeling.

Comparative Example 2 In Example 1, the modified composite multifilament yarn had a core-sheath structure in which a readily soluble component was divided into a plurality of gears in the form of a hardly soluble component on the circumference of the fiber as shown in FIG. Using a 75 denier / 24 filament drawn yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 150 × 10 ⁻³ and a supply roll speed of 800 m / min, a take-up roll speed of 800 m / min.
The boiling water shrinkage was 3.5%, and the birefringence (Δ) was obtained by performing false twisting with the fluid swirling nozzle under the conditions of a heater temperature of 300 ° C., a number of false twists of 850 t / m, and a pressure of the fluid swirling nozzle of 7 kg / cm ^2.
A black woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that n) was a thread of 130 × 10 ⁻³ . The obtained woven fabric was excellent in swelling and silky feeling, tightness and waist, but lacked the deep dyeing effect.

Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, a high-density undrawn yarn having a round cross section of 75 denier / 24 spun with only polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.53, instead of the latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn. Other than using filament,
In the same manner as in Example 1, a black fabric of Comparative Example 3 was obtained. The obtained woven fabric had a deep dyeing property, but lacked a swelling feeling.

The evaluation results of the woven fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 are summarized in Table 1.

[0034]

[Table 1]

[0035]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a high-color-forming silky fabric having a feeling of tension, waist and swelling, and excellent in deep dyeing effect.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an example of a cross section of a modified composite multifilament that can be used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing an example of a cross section of a filament from which a readily soluble component has been eluted.

[Explanation of symbols]

 α easily soluble component β slightly soluble component

Continued on the front page F term (reference) 4L041 AA07 AA20 BA02 BA05 BA09 BA12 BB05 BC04 BC06 BC13 BC20 BD13 BD14 CA06 CA11 CA16 DD01 DD04 DD10 DD11 DD14 EE15 EE20 4L048 AA20 AA28 AA30 AA50 AA55 AB07 AB08 AB04 AB21 CA01 CA02EB04

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A latently crimpable composite multifilament yarn having a crimp rate of 50% or more after boiling water treatment, a birefringence of 70 × 10 ^{−3 to} 120 × 10 ⁻³ , and a boiling water shrinkage rate Is 5%
After weaving a mixed and entangled yarn with a modified multifilament yarn whose cross-sectional shape forms an uneven shape by an alkali treatment as a warp and / or a weft, and performing a dyeing finish including an alkali treatment A method for producing a highly colored silky woven fabric, characterized in that: 2. The method for producing a highly color-forming silky fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing step is black dyeing and the L ^* value is 12 or less.