JP3611051B2 - Polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
[Industrial application fields]
The present invention relates to a polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption comprising a polyester multifilament and a method for producing the same, and more specifically, imparts excellent water absorption performance, moderate soft feeling and drape to an woven or knitted fabric by alkali weight loss treatment. The present invention relates to a polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption suitable for women's clothing and a method for producing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventional attempts to impart water-absorbing performance to polyester woven or knitted fabrics include (a) a method of combining a surface modifying material having a hydrophilic group on the surface of a woven or knitted fabric using a pad dry cure method, or (b) hydrophilicity to polyester Surface modification by post-processing such as a method of hydrophilizing the surface by graft polymerization of a monomer having a group or a multimer dominates. However, with these methods, excellent water absorption performance can be obtained, but it is expensive to make the fiber surface hydrophilic by post-processing, and a surface modifying material having a hydrophilic group is simply applied to the fiber surface as shown in (a). The applied one has a problem in washing durability and does not necessarily satisfy consumers.
[0003]
In addition, (c) a technique for improving the water absorption by utilizing a capillary phenomenon between fibers by making the fiber cross section into a special shape, and (d) a hollow fiber using a composite spinning method. A C-shaped cross section provided with a slit section and a slit section leading to the section, and a method of improving water absorption by the effect of the hollow section and the slit section, or (e) a thick and thin thread with a hollow section as disclosed in JP-A-5-163611 There is a technique in which a large number of fine grooves reaching the hollow part are formed in the thick part by alkali reduction treatment, and the water absorption is improved by the effect of the hollow part and the fine groove. However, since the method uses gaps between fibers, the number of twists is limited to obtain satisfactory water absorption performance, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is influenced by this. In the method (d), the raw yarn is expensive, and there is a problem in the yarn forming property, process passability, and the like. In addition, the method (e) has poor mechanical strength because the fine groove reaches the hollow portion, and the knitted or knitted fabric using the yarn is not satisfactory in tearing strength. When cutting is performed, fluffs having finer mechanical strength than the thick part are formed, which may eventually form pills and hinder the appearance quality.
[0004]
The present invention solves the conventional problems as described above, and is excellent in yarn production, post-process passability, dyeability, and excellent water absorption performance, soft feeling, and draping properties due to alkali weight reduction treatment. A polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in the above and a method for producing the same.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention comprises the following gist. A woven or knitted fabric made of a polyester multifilament composite yarn, and the warp and / or weft of the woven or knitted fabric is composed of a polyester multifilament composite yarn made of two or more types of polyester multifilament yarn, and the polyester multifilament composite At least one of the polyester multifilament yarns constituting the yarn is a solid cross-section fiber and has many fine grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction.The dry heat shrinkage SHD at 160 ° C. is less than 0%.A polyester woven or knitted fabric with excellent water absorption, characterized by being composed of self-extensible multifilament yarns.AndThe polyester multifilament composite yarn is a polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption, characterized in that it is twisted in the range shown in (4), and a polyester melt-spun at a spinning take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min. Relaxing heat treatment of unstretched multifilament yarn in the range of 10-60% relaxation rateSHD (A) <0% and noneThen, after compounding with other polyester multifilament drawn yarn, twisting, weaving and knitting to obtain a woven or knitted fabric made of polyester multifilament composite yarn, polyester multifilament is subjected to an alkali weight loss treatment of 5 to 35% A method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption, characterized by forming a large number of fine grooves on the surface of a relaxed heat treated yarn fiber of undrawn yarn..
(Four) 3000 / D^1/2≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / D^1/2However,SHD (A) indicates the dry heat shrinkage rate of the heat treated yarn of polyester multifilament undrawn yarn at 160 ° C. dry heat,d represents a single yarn denier (dpf.) of a polyester multifilament yarn having fine grooves, Tw is the number of twists per 1 m of yarn (times / m), and D is a polyester multifilament composite yarn. The total denier (den.).
[0006]
The polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to the present invention is composed of a polyester multifilament composite yarn in which warp and / or weft is composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns. Polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate In addition to terephthalic acid as a dicarboxylic acid component, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as malonic acid, maleic acid, and sebacic acid, and ester-forming derivatives thereof, or phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, 1 An aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as 1,4-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid or 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof may be included as a copolymerization component.
[0007]
The glycol component mainly includes ethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, etc., and a polyester in which a part thereof is substituted with another glycol component such as neopentyl glycol. Also good. Further, polyesters to which inorganic fine particles such as titanium dioxide, barium sulfate, and kaolinite or pigments are added may be used as required. A particularly preferably used polyester is polyethylene terephthalate.
[0008]
The polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to the present invention is composed of a polyester multifilament composite yarn in which warps and / or wefts are composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns, and at least the multifilament composite yarn is constituted. The gist is that one type is a self-extensible filament having a number of fine grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction. Giving water absorption to polyester woven and knitted fabrics has been a challenge for many years, and research is being promoted from various directions. The inventors of the present invention have intensively studied a method for imparting water absorbency to a polyester woven or knitted fabric more effectively, and have reached the present invention. That is, by using a polyester multifilament yarn having a surface micro-groove in part of a polyester multifilament composite yarn forming a polyester woven or knitted fabric and exhibiting self-extension, the multifilament yarn is subjected to heat treatment in a subsequent process. By projecting as a loop on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and effectively covering the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, the effect of improving water absorption is further promoted by the fine grooves formed on the surface of the multifilament yarn. It came to discover what was done. In addition, since the multifilament yarn has a large number of fine grooves on its surface, there is a possibility that this yarn alone cannot maintain practical strength such as a decrease in tear strength of the woven or knitted fabric. The practical strength which was lacking was improved by using it as a warp and / or weft of a woven or knitted fabric as a polyester multifilament composite yarn combined with a multifilament drawn yarn. In particular, by using a high-shrinkage yarn having a large single yarn denier as the multifilament drawn yarn, the weaving, knitting, and swelling of the woven or knitted fabric can be further improved, which is preferable.
[0009]
The polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to the present invention uses a polyester multifilament composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns for warp and / or weft, and constitutes the multifilament composite yarn. The preferred range is that the polyester multifilament yarn is a self-extendable polyester multifilament yarn having fine grooves in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction satisfying the following (1) to (3): is there.
(1) Maximum depth from the fiber surface of the fine groove to the deepest part 1.5×d^1/2 ~ 4.5×d^1/2 μm (2) Width of micro groove 1.5 × d on the fiber surface^1/2 ~ 4.0 × d^1/2 [mu] m (3) 3 to 10 fine grooves formed per 10 [mu] m of yarn length, where d is a single yarn denier (dpf.) of a polyester multifilament yarn having fine grooves.
[0010]
It is important that the maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine groove existing on the fiber surface satisfies the above range. The maximum depth is 1.5 × d^1/2 If it is in the range of less than μm, a slight improvement in water absorption performance can be expected, but the water absorption is not much different from the conventional polyester knitted fabric, and the high water absorption intended for the present invention is imparted to the polyester woven fabric. It becomes difficult. The maximum depth is 4.5 × d^1/2 If it exceeds μm, the water-absorbing performance will be greatly improved, but the depth of the groove will be too large with respect to the cross section of the single fiber. There is a risk of degrading the quality, and it is difficult to say that this is a preferable range in terms of consumption performance. The maximum depth is 1.5 × d^1/2 μm to 4.5 × d^1/2 μm, more preferably 2.5 × d^1/2 μm to 4.0 × d^1/2 By controlling the maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine groove in the range of μm, it becomes possible to give good water absorption performance to the polyester woven or knitted fabric without causing the above problems. is there.
[0011]
The width of the fine groove on the fiber surface is 1.5 × d^1/2 ~ 4.0 × d^1/2 μm range, more preferably 2.0 × d^1/2 ~ 3.0 × d^1/2 A range of μm is desirable. The fine groove formed on the fiber surface is characterized in that the opening becomes narrower from the fiber surface to the deepest part, that is, the width of the groove becomes smaller from the fiber surface to the deepest part. The width of the fine groove is 1.5 × d^1/2 If it is less than μm, the water absorption performance of the polyester woven or knitted fabric is not satisfactory, and the water absorption performance is only slightly improved as compared with the conventional polyester woven or knitted fabric. Cannot be applied to woven or knitted fabrics. 4.0 × d^1/2 If it exceeds μm, the water absorption performance of the polyester woven or knitted fabric will be sufficient, but a decrease in the single yarn strength of the self-extensible multifilament yarn itself having fine grooves on the surface, in particular, a lack of strength in the bending and shearing directions will appear remarkably. There is a risk that the single yarn will be cut and the appearance of the woven or knitted fabric may be damaged, and it is difficult to say that this is the preferred range.
[0012]
Further, the number of surface fine grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction is 3 to 10 per 10 μm of the self-extensible multifilament yarn having the surface fine grooves. In addition, it is an effective range considering the appearance quality and general consumption performance of the woven or knitted fabric. If the number of surface fine grooves formed is less than 3 per 10 μm yarn length, it is difficult to impart sufficient water absorption performance to the polyester woven fabric. Conversely, if it exceeds 10 per 10 μm yarn length, the water absorption performance of the polyester woven fabric is sufficient. However, the single yarn strength is significantly reduced and the practical strength cannot be maintained. Polyester capable of satisfying water absorption performance and maintaining practical strength by controlling the number of surface fine grooves formed in the range of 3 to 10 per 10 μm yarn length, more preferably 4 to 7 per 10 μm yarn length. It becomes a woven or knitted fabric.
[0013]
The polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to the present invention has a water absorption rate of 90 to 140% by Larose method water absorption measurement, and has a high water absorption performance as its preferred range. Toyobo Engineering as the measurement methodMadeUsing a Larose water absorption measuring device TL-01, a circular sample of polyester woven or knitted fabric is set on a horizontal glass filter that has been hydrated. The sample is subjected to a load of 480 g and sucked up through the glass filter in one minute. The amount of water was measured, and the average value of the number of measurements was taken as the amount of water absorption, and the water absorption rate was calculated by the following formula.
Water absorption rate (%) = Water absorption amount (g) ÷ Sample weight (g) × 100
[0014]
According to the water absorption evaluation by the Larose method, the cotton fabric generally shows a high water absorption performance of about 200%, but when it becomes a polyester woven or knitted fabric, it is a high water absorption fabric utilizing capillary action of about 50% to 70%, In a normal polyester woven or knitted fabric, the water absorption rate is 30% or less. Further, by introducing hydrophilic groups to the surface of the woven or knitted fabric by post-processing that increases the price of the product, high water absorption performance of about 120 to 170% can be imparted. The main feature is that it exhibits high water absorption performance without any problems. In the polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, self-extensible multifilament yarn is used as a part, the multifilament yarn is self-extended by heat treatment during dyeing, and the fiber surface of the self-extensible multifilament yarn is then subjected to alkali weight loss treatment. The microfilament yarn having the surface fine grooves effectively covers the surface of the polyester woven or knitted fabric, thereby imparting high water absorption performance. For this reason, the formation of fine grooves on the surface of the self-extensible multifilament yarn and the water absorption performance of the polyester woven or knitted fabric are controlled by the alkali weight loss treatment. Therefore, it is possible to increase the water absorption performance of the polyester woven or knitted fabric to 140% or more by increasing the alkali weight loss rate of the fabric, increasing the number of fine grooves formed, or growing the fine grooves. This is not preferable because there is a risk that the basic characteristics of the fabric, such as lowering of the mechanical characteristics of the fabric, elasticity, waist, etc. may be impaired. Also, if the water absorption performance of the polyester woven or knitted fabric is kept below 90%, the water absorption performance of the highly water-absorbing polyester woven or knitted fabric that does not depend on post-processing is almost the same, and no novelty is felt. End up. By controlling the water absorption rate by the Larose method to 90% to 140%, it becomes possible to impart high water absorption performance to the polyester woven or knitted fabric without impairing the basic characteristics of the fabric.
[0015]
For the polyester multifilament composite yarn constituting the polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is important that the self-extending multifilament yarn has a solid cross section. As described above, the self-extensible multifilament yarn uses a solid cross-section yarn because it retains the mechanical strength of the multifilament yarn in order to form a large number of fine grooves on the fiber surface by alkali weight loss treatment. Is desirable. When a hollow cross-section yarn is used for the multifilament yarn, further improvement in water absorption performance can be expected due to the effect of the hollow portion and the fine groove connected to the hollow portion, but the mechanical strength of the self-extensible multifilament yarn is insufficient, This is not preferable because the mechanical performance such as a decrease in the appearance of the fabric due to yarn cutting or the tearing strength of the fabric is not sufficient. The cross-sectional shape is not particularly limited as long as it is a solid cross-section, and any cross-section yarn such as a round cross-section yarn, a triangular cross-section yarn, a polygonal cross-section yarn such as a 5- to 8-angle cross-section yarn, a flat cross-section yarn, or the like is used. Also good. Moreover, about the other polyester multifilament drawn yarn which comprises a polyester multifilament composite yarn, a cross-sectional shape does not add a limitation in particular, You may employ | adopt any of a hollow cross section and a solid cross section. In particular, when hollow cross-section yarn is used, the cross-sectional secondary moment of the single fiber is larger than that of the solid cross-section yarn of the denier, making it possible to give the fabric a feeling of elasticity, improved waist feeling and light weight due to the hollow effect. It is preferable for use. The cross-sectional shape is not particularly limited, and may be any shape such as a round cross-sectional yarn, a modified cross-sectional yarn, and a flat cross-sectional yarn.
[0016]
The polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to the present invention is obtained by using a polyester multifilament composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns for warp and / or weft as described above. It is important that the number of twists inserted into the filament composite yarn satisfies the following formula (4).
(4) 3000 / D^1/2≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / D^1/2However, Tw is the number of twists inserted per 1 m of yarn (times / m), and D is the total denier (Den.) Of the polyester multifilament composite yarn.
[0017]
The number of twists inserted into the multifilament composite yarn can be appropriately selected in consideration of the texture of the polyester woven or knitted fabric within the range shown in Formula 7. For example, Tw (times / m) = 3000 / D when you want to show the softness and bulkiness of polyester knitted fabrics on the surface.^1/2~ 7000 / D^1/2If it is desired to show the dry feeling and sharpness of the polyester woven or knitted fabric on the surface, Tw (times / m) = 12000 / D^1/2~ 25000 / D^1/2The strong twist range may be adopted. The twist number is 3000 / D^1/2If it is less than the range, the self-extendable multifilament yarn is formed with a long loop length due to heat treatment by dyeing processing, so that the feeling of flickering appears deeply, and the appearance quality of the fabric is significantly impaired, which is preferable. It is hard to say that it is a range. The twist number is 27000 / D.^1/2Exceeding the strength will cause a strong twisting effect, and the fabric will have a smooth and dry feeling, but the texture will be slightly stiff, and the fabric will have a moderate softness and bulkiness due to the self-extension of the self-extensible multifilament yarn. It can no longer be granted.
[0018]
When inserting a twist into the multifilament composite yarn, it can be carried out using commonly used twisting machines such as a double twister, up twister, italic twisting machine, ring twister, etc. Use of a double twister is suitable from the standpoint of stability. In addition, when the multifilament composite yarn is twisted, wet twist twisting using a vacuum heat setter or the like to prevent twisting or twisting, or sizing with PVA or acrylic glue material, It is possible to suppress twisting and billing due to torque in the direction, which is preferable. The temperature condition during the wet heat twist fixing and sizing treatment is desirably in a range not exceeding 85 ° C, and preferably 50 ° C to 80 ° C. When the temperature condition exceeds 85 ° C., the self-extensible multifilament yarn constituting the polyester multifilament composite yarn is slightly stretched to form a loop, and the unraveling property of the composite yarn is poor. This causes a lack of softness and bulkiness.
[0019]
The method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention uses a polyester multifilament composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns for warp and / or weft, and constitutes the multifilament composite yarn. At least one type of polyester multifilament yarn is a self-extensible multifilament yarn, and after processing into a woven or knitted fabric, forming a fine groove on the fiber surface of the self-extensible multifilament yarn by an alkali weight loss treatment of 5 to 35%. Is the feature.
[0020]
The self-extensible polyester multifilament yarn can be obtained by subjecting a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn melt-spun at a spinning take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min. To a relaxation heat treatment in the range of 10 to 60%..
[0021]
The single yarn denier and the total denier of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn are not particularly limited, but the smaller the single yarn denier, the easier it is to be subjected to relaxation heat treatment, and the productivity can be improved. A preferable range of the single yarn denier is 0.3 denier to 3.0 denier. Polyester multifilament unstretched yarns having a single yarn denier of less than 0.3 denier are significantly deteriorated in yarn production by melt spinning by the conventional direct spinning method. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3.0 denier, it is difficult to carry out the relaxation heat treatment, and the yarn is not sufficiently contracted and protrudes as a loop, which hinders the subsequent process. The smaller the total denier, the easier the relaxation heat treatment. Preferably, it is necessary to select appropriately in consideration of productivity within the range of 20 denier to 75 denier.
[0022]
The total denier of the multifilament composite yarn constituting the polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but in consideration of general clothing applications, its purpose, use, within the range of about 30 denier to 300 denier. What is necessary is just to select suitably according to a texture. Further, the single yarn denier and the total denier of other polyester multifilament drawn yarns combined with the self-extending polyester multifilament yarn are not particularly limited, but the single yarn denier is about 3 to 10 denier, preferably about It is preferable to use a yarn of about 5 denier to 10 denier because the fabric has sufficient elasticity and waist feeling.
[0023]
The self-extensible polyester multifilament yarn can be obtained by subjecting a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn melt-spun at a spinning take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min. To a relaxation heat treatment in the range of 10 to 60%. The use of a dry heat non-contact heater or a contact heater for the relaxation heat treatment is very effective in consideration of productivity. In this relaxation heat treatment, it is indispensable to give the self-extension property to effectively remove only the shrinkage component while reducing the molecular orientation of the polyester multifilament as much as possible and suppressing the crystallization by heating as much as possible. is there. The decrease in molecular orientation and the removal of shrinkage components due to this relaxation heat treatment are in a mutually contradictory relationship, and it is necessary to fully consider the relaxation rate. When relaxation heat treatment is performed in a range where the relaxation rate is less than 10%, the decrease in molecular orientation can be suppressed considerably, but the residual shrinkage component is large and the self-elongation rate is small, so that the water absorption performance of the woven or knitted fabric is sufficient. In addition, the softness and bulkiness are poor. When the relaxation rate exceeds 60%, the shrinkage component can be sufficiently removed, but the molecular orientation is significantly lowered, and the degree of self-elongation due to crystal growth in the fiber axis direction by heat treatment by dyeing is small. This is also not preferable because the water-absorbing performance of the woven or knitted fabric is not sufficient, and the soft feeling and the bulkiness are poor. The relaxation rate can be appropriately selected within a range of 10 to 60% in accordance with the water absorption performance and texture of the woven or knitted fabric, productivity, yarn type, and the like.
[0024]
The spinning take-up speed of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn needs to be in the range of 2000 to 4000 m / min., More preferably 2600 to 3800 m / min., And still more preferably 3000 to 3800 m / min. When the spinning take-up speed is less than 2000 m / min., The molecular orientation of the polyester in the fiber axis direction becomes light, and even if subjected to relaxation heat treatment, self-extension ability is imparted to the fiber. I can't. When the molecular weight exceeds 4000 m / min., The molecular orientation of the polyester in the fiber axis direction is sufficient, but the degree of orientation crystallization is large, and not only the fibers cannot relax sufficiently during the relaxation heat treatment, but also the self-extension ability is sufficient. The polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention cannot provide sufficient water absorption performance, and the texture is not different from that of a conventional polyester woven or knitted fabric using different shrinkage mixed yarns. It ends up.
[0025]
The polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is effectively covered with a loop made of a self-extensible polyester multifilament yarn having a large number of fine grooves on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and has high water absorption performance, moderate soft feeling, bulkiness, and dryness. Although it is characterized by showing a feeling, an alkali weight loss treatment of 5 to 35% at the time of dyeing is indispensable for forming fine grooves on the fiber surface in the self-extensible polyester multifilament yarn. A liquid dyeing machine or the like is used for the alkali weight reduction treatment, and an alkali hydrolysis reaction is performed more uniformly over the entire polyester woven or knitted fabric while stirring the polyester woven or knitted fabric in an aqueous solution of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide. It is desirable to process so that it is promoted. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide preferably used is sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide or the like, and most preferably sodium hydroxide.
[0026]
If the weight loss rate due to the alkali weight loss treatment is less than 5%, the gap between the polyester multifilament yarns forming the polyester woven or knitted fabric remains small, and it is not only possible to give the woven or knitted fabric an appropriate soft feeling and drapeability. In addition, the formation of fine grooves on the surface of the self-extensible multifilament yarn remains light, and the high water absorption targeted by the present invention cannot be imparted to the polyester woven or knitted fabric. In addition, when the weight loss rate by the alkali weight loss treatment exceeds 35%, the formation of fine grooves on the surface of the self-extensible multifilament yarn progresses, and the polyester woven or knitted fabric exhibits a considerably high water absorption, but the alkali weight loss progresses too much. This is not preferable because it causes single yarn cutting due to embrittlement on the side of the self-extensible multifilament yarn, the appearance quality of the knitted or knitted fabric is lowered, the tear strength is lowered, and the elasticity and the feeling of waist are insufficient. By controlling the weight loss rate by the alkali weight loss treatment to 5 to 35%, preferably 20 to 30%, it becomes possible to impart high water absorption performance, moderate soft feeling, bulkiness and dry feeling to the polyester woven or knitted fabric. It is.
[0027]
The method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention uses a polyester multifilament composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns for warp and / or weft, and constitutes the multifilament composite yarn. At least one type of polyester multifilament yarn is a self-extensible multifilament yarn, and a method of combining two or more types of polyester multifilament yarn when obtaining the polyester multifilament composite yarn is as follows: Any of drawing, twisting, or air entanglement may be used, but the most preferable is air entanglement by high-pressure air flow at room temperature. In the air entanglement, a commercially available interlace nozzle or the like can be used. The main purpose of the air entanglement is to easily bundle the multifilaments so that there is no hindrance to the post-process passability due to yarn cracking, etc., so that the number of entanglements per 1 m of the yarn is about 20 to 100 pieces. Is enough.
[0028]
The polyester multifilament composite yarn constituting the polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a combination of a relaxation heat-treated yarn of a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn and another polyester multifilament drawn yarn as described above. The relaxed heat treated yarn of the drawn yarn and the multifilament drawn yarn have the following physical properties (5) to(7) Can be satisfiedpreferable.
(5) SHD (A) <0%
(6) -1% ≤ SHW (A) ≤ 3%
(7) 5% ≦ SHW (B) ≦ 25%, where SHD (A) and SHW (A) are the dry heat shrinkage rate and the boiling water shrinkage rate of the heat-treated yarn of polyester multifilament undrawn yarn at 160 ° C. dry heat, respectively. SHD (B) and SHW (B) represent the dry heat shrinkage and boiling water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament drawn yarn at 160 ° C. dry heat, respectively.
[0029]
It is necessary that the dry heat shrinkage SHD (A) of the relaxation heat treated yarn of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn at 160 ° C. is less than 0% as described above and substantially self-extends. When the SHD (A) is 0% or more, the relaxed heat-treated yarn of the multifilament undrawn yarn exhibits shrinkage at a dry heat of 160 ° C., and a high water absorption performance cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. The softness and bulkiness of the knitted fabric are also insufficient, which is not preferable. The lower limit of the dry heat shrinkage ratio SHD (A) is not particularly limited, and can be controlled by the relaxation rate, the heat treatment temperature, the heat treatment time, etc. during the relaxation heat treatment. % To -10%. If the dry heat shrinkage ratio SHD (A) exceeds -10%, the woven or knitted fabric becomes unwieldy, resulting in a texture like a conventional false twisted yarn woven or knitted fabric. As described above, the dry heat shrinkage ratio SHD (A) can be controlled by the relaxation heat treatment conditions, and therefore it is necessary to select the relaxation heat treatment conditions in consideration of the texture and water absorption performance of the woven or knitted fabric. It is.
[0030]
As described above, the boiling water shrinkage SHW (A) of the relaxation heat treated yarn of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn is desirably -1% or more and 3% or less, more preferably 0% or more and 3% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW (A) is less than -1%, the relaxation heat treated yarn of the polyester multifilament unstretched yarn, that is, the self-extensible multifilament yarn is not less than self-treated by heat treatment in the twisted wet heat setting or sizing process. Since it elongates and becomes a loop and protrudes from the side surface of the multifilament composite yarn, there is a risk of causing unsatisfactory unraveling of the multifilament composite yarn and poor processability during knitting and weaving and knitting. . Further, if the boiling water shrinkage SHW (A) exceeds 3%, the degree of self-elongation due to the heat treatment during the dyeing process becomes small, and it is not possible to impart an appropriate soft feeling and bulkiness to the woven or knitted fabric. Or, the water absorption performance is not satisfactory. By making the boiling water shrinkage SHW (A) -1% or more and 3% or less, more preferably 0% or more and 3% or less, the polyester woven or knitted fabric has high water absorption performance, soft feeling, bulkiness, and alkali weight loss treatment. Therefore, it is possible to impart functions such as an appropriate dry feeling and deep dyeing, which are presumed to be due to the effect of forming fine grooves.
[0031]
It is desirable that the dry heat shrinkage SHD (B) of the polyester multifilament drawn yarn at a dry heat of 160 ° C. is 7% or more and 30% or less. As the multifilament drawn yarn, not only drawn yarn but also spin draw yarn, thick and thin yarn, etc. can be used. If the dry heat shrinkage SHD (B) at a dry heat of 160 ° C. of the multifilament drawn yarn is less than 7%, the loop protrusion due to the self-extension of the self-extensible multifilament yarn is mild. Thus, the surface of the polyester woven or knitted fabric cannot be effectively covered, and it becomes difficult to obtain a high water absorption performance, but the soft feeling and bulkiness of the woven or knitted fabric are also poor. On the other hand, when the dry heat shrinkage SHD (B) exceeds 30%, the polyester woven or knitted fabric is finished in a tight feeling, the texture is hard, and the soft feeling and the bulkiness are not felt.
[0032]
The boiling water shrinkage SHW (B) of the polyester multifilament drawn yarn needs to be 5% or more and 25% or less. If the boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW (B) is less than 5%, the loop formation due to the self-extension of the self-extendable multifilament yarn by heat treatment during dyeing is extremely small, and the surface of the polyester woven or knitted fabric Cannot be effectively covered, and the water absorption performance of the woven or knitted fabric is not satisfactory. If the boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW (B) exceeds 25%, the polyester woven or knitted fabric shrinks excessively due to heat treatment during dyeing, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric becomes hard, giving an appropriate soft feeling and bulkiness. I can't.
[0033]
The polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a polyester multifilament composite yarn containing at least one kind of self-extensible multifilament yarn used as warp and / or weft, and the self-extensible multi-filament is obtained by alkali reduction treatment during dyeing. By forming a large number of fine grooves in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis in the filament yarn, a loop made of a self-extensible multifilament yarn having a large number of surface fine grooves effectively covers the surface of the polyester woven or knitted fabric. High water absorption performance is imparted. The mechanism by which the self-stretching multifilament yarn used in the present invention, that is, the relaxation heat treatment yarn of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn, forms a large number of fine grooves by the alkali weight loss treatment is not clear at present, but the relaxation heat treatment At this time, the unstretched polyester multifilament yarn has undergone considerable thermal deformation with a relaxation rate of 10 to 60%, and does not cause uniform shrinkage in the fiber axis direction, that is, a portion where the degree of orientation is large in the fiber axis direction, It is thought that the part which absorbed the distortion caused by the relaxation treatment by disturbing the orientation and the part where the degree of orientation degree is small are mixed, and the part where the degree of orientation degree is disturbed by the alkali weight reduction process is selected. It is presumed that the hydrolysis was accelerated to form fine grooves.
[0034]
The polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention also exhibits moderate softness and bulkiness due to the effect of using the self-extensible multifilament yarn. In order to further improve the effect, sanding treatment or emery brushing treatment is used. It is possible to perform surface brushing treatment, but if surface brushing is performed excessively, the strength of the loop having fine grooves may be low and the loop portion may be lost, and the treatment conditions should be selected sufficiently. It is necessary.
[0035]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. The physical property values in the text and in the examples are based on the following measuring methods.
(a) Observation of fiber surface micro-grooves Using a S-501 scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., the surface of the woven or knitted fabric after magnifying to 800 times magnification and alkali weight reduction processing was observed. The maximum depth to the deepest part, the width of the fine groove on the fiber surface, and the number of fine grooves formed per 10 μm of yarn length were determined. Each measurement value was determined by taking the measurement average value at 30 locations.
[0036]
(b) Larose method water absorption measurement Using a Larose water absorption measuring device TL-01 manufactured by Toyobo Engineering, a circular sample of polyester woven or knitted fabric was set on a horizontal glass filter that had been hydrated, and a load of 480 g was applied to this sample. The amount of water that the sample sucks up through the glass filter in one minute is measured, and the water absorption is calculated by the following formula, using the average value of the number of measurements five times as the water absorption.
Water absorption rate (%) = Water absorption amount (g) ÷ Sample weight (g) × 100
[0037]
(c) Dry heat shrinkage (SHD)
A load of 1/30 g / d is applied to the sample, and its length L1 (mm) is measured. Next, the load is removed, and the sample is put in a dryer and dried at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes. After drying, it is cooled, and a load of 1/30 g / d is applied again to measure its length L2 (mm). Substituting the above L1 and L2 into the following equation, the dry heat shrinkage (SHD) is calculated. In addition, let the average value of the measurement frequency | count of 5 times be the measured value.
SHD (%) = [(L1-L2) / L1] × 100
[0038]
(d) Boiling water shrinkage (SHW)
Using a measuring instrument with a frame circumference of 125m, apply the initial load of 0.1g / d, rewind the sample at a speed of 120 turns / minute, make a small casket with 20 turns, and weight 40 times the initial load. And measure the heel length L3 (mm). Subsequently, the weight is removed, and after being immersed in boiling water (100 ° C.) for 30 minutes in such a way that the shrinkage is not hindered, it is taken out, wiped with blotting paper or cotton cloth, and air-dried in a horizontal state. After air drying, apply the weight again and measure the heel length L4 (mm). The above L3 and L4 are substituted into the following equation, and the boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is measured. In addition, let the average value of the measurement frequency | count of 5 times be the measured value.
SHW (%) = [(L3-L4) / L3] × 100
[0039]
Example 1)A polyester semidal round section multifilament undrawn yarn 40 denier 24 filament was obtained by using a polyethylene terephthalate semidal resin at a spinning take-up speed of 3200 m / min. The multifilament undrawn yarn was subjected to relaxation heat treatment with a slit heater (non-contact heating) at an atmospheric temperature of 200 ° C. under conditions of a relaxation rate of 45% and a processing speed of 200 m / min. The undrawn multifilament yarn after the relaxation heat treatment has a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of -0.9% and a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) of 160.degree. Indicates self-extension.
[0040]
Polyester multifilament unstretched yarn and boiling water shrinkage (SHW) after the relaxation heat treatment are 16%ofPolyester semi-dull round cross-section multifilament 100 filaments of 30 denier 30 filaments were air entangled with a high pressure air flow at room temperature using a known interlace nozzle to obtain polyester multifilament composite yarn 158 denier 54 filaments. The number of entanglement per 1 m of the multifilament composite yarn was 84 pcs / m, and there was no problem such as yarn cracking and the handleability was good.
[0041]
The multifilament composite yarn is made into a double twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd.)No.302), a yarn having a twist of 1200 times / m in the S twist direction is used as a warp, and a yarn in which the multifilament is S twisted in the S twist direction and a twist of 1000 times / m in the Z twist direction is prepared. , Cash machine with warp yarns of S / S, Z, Z, S, S, Z, Z, S twisted yarn and Z twisted yarn alternating so that the raw machine density is warp 133 / in, weft 73 / in Weaved to the standard. After scouring and relaxing the woven fabric, using a liquid dyeing machine, the woven fabric was subjected to alkali weight reduction in an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 95 ° C. while stirring to finish the weight loss rate at 25%. Subsequently, dyeing was performed with a disperse dye using a liquid dyeing machine, and a normal final set was applied to obtain a dyed cloth with a finishing density of 153 warps / in and 84 wefts / in.
[0042]
When the surface of the dyed fabric was observed with a scanning electron microscope at a magnification of 800 times, the relaxation heat-treated yarn of the polyester multifilament unstretched yarn self-extends and protrudes as a loop, effectively covering the fabric surface. Further, it was confirmed that a large number of fine grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction were formed on the loop surface, that is, on the surface of the relaxation heat treated yarn of the multifilament undrawn yarn.. FiberThe average width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface was about 3.8 μm, and the number of fine grooves formed was 5.2 per 10 μm of yarn length.. FurtherIn addition, it is a completely new texture that is suitable for ladies' dresses and jackets, and skirts that have a gentle feeling without feeling, moderate softness, bulky properties, subtle dry touch, plus moderate elasticity and waist It was what had.
[0043]
(Comparative Example 1) A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that alkali weight reduction was performed and the weight loss rate was 40%. When the surface is observed with an electron microscope, the relaxation heat-treated yarn of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn is markedly embrittled in the loop portion, and many portions leading to single yarn cutting are confirmed. The quality was not good. In addition, the growth of fine grooves on the fiber surface is excessively advanced, the yarn is considerably damaged, and the mechanical strength such as bending rigidity and elasticity is poor. The fabric feels soft and bulky due to stretching, and the texture of the fabric is hard and thin.. WeaveThe consumption performance such as the tearing strength of the object itself is insufficient, and it cannot be used practically.
[0044]
(Comparative Example 2)Polyethylene terephthalate semidal resin was used and a polyester semidal round cross-section multifilament undrawn yarn of 60 deniers and 24 filaments were wound by a usual melt spinning method at a spinning take-up speed of 3200 m / min. The multifilament undrawn yarn is heated at a surface temperature of 170 ° C. with a hot plate (contact heating) with a relaxation rate of 0% and a processing speed of 200 m / min.. ofA constant length heat treatment was performed under each condition. The multifilament unstretched yarn after heat treatment has a boiling water shrinkage ratio (SHW) of 1.7% and a dry heat shrinkage ratio (SHD) at a dry heat of 160 ° C. of 2.3%. Showed heat shrinkage. The multifilament undrawn yarn after the constant-length heat treatment and the boiling water shrinkage (SHW) are 16%ofPolyester semi-dal round cross-section multifilament Normal drawn yarn 100 denier 30 filaments were combined, and a polyester multifilament composite yarn 160 denier 54 filament was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The number of entanglement per 1 m of the multifilament composite yarn was 74 / m, and there was no yarn cracking and the handleability was good.
[0045]
A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the multifilament composite yarn was used. When the surface of the woven fabric is observed using an electron microscope, the polyester filament multifilament unstretched yarn does not protrude as a loop on the fabric surface in order to exhibit heat shrinkability. Formation of fine grooves was not confirmed on the surface of the heat treated yarn. When this fabric was subjected to water absorption evaluation by the Larose method, the water absorption was 52.8%, and the high water absorption intended by the present invention could not be obtained. In addition, although it has a moderate feeling of waist and a feeling of softness, the softness and bulkiness are insufficient, and there is no subtle dry touch that seems to be the effect of fine grooves, and a fabric with a novel texture I didn't.
[0046]
(Comparative Example 3)Polyethylene terephthalate semidal resin was used, and a polyester semidal round cross-section multifilament undrawn yarn of 70 denier and 24 filaments were wound at a take-up speed of 3200 m / min. The multifilament undrawn yarn was drawn at a draw ratio of 75 times using a drawing machine to obtain a polyester semidal round cross-section multifilament drawn yarn 40 denier 24 filament. Using a slit heater (non-contact heating) with an atmospheric temperature of 190 ° C., the multifilament drawn yarn has a relaxation rate of 45% and a processing speed of 240 m / min.. ofA relaxation heat treatment was performed under each condition. The multifilament drawn yarn after the relaxation heat treatment has a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of -0.5% and a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at a dry heat of 160 ° C. of -4.8%. It showed self-extension.
[0047]
The multifilament drawn yarn after the relaxation heat treatment and the boiling water shrinkage (SHW) are 16%ofPolyester semi-dal round cross-section multifilament Normal drawn yarn 100 denier 30 filaments were combined, and a polyester multifilament composite yarn 160 denier 54 filament was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The number of entanglements per 1 m of the multifilament composite yarn was 76 / m, and there was no yarn cracking and the handling property was good.
[0048]
A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the multifilament composite yarn was used. When the surface of the fabric is observed using a scanning electron microscope, a loop made of a relaxed and heat-treated polyester multifilament drawn yarn protrudes as if covering the fabric surface, and the fabric texture becomes soft and bulky. The waist was also satisfactory. However, the formation of fine grooves on the surface of the yarn was not confirmed in the loop portion made of the relaxation heat treated yarn of the multifilament drawn yarn, and the fabric did not feel a delicate dry touch. Further, in the Larose method water absorption evaluation of the woven fabric, the water absorption was 62.1%, which did not indicate the high water absorption performance intended by the present invention.
[0049]
【The invention's effect】
The polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to the present invention constructed as described above has high water absorption performance by alkali weight reduction treatment, yet has a soft touch and delicate dry touch, moderate bulkiness and elasticity, waist It has remarkable effects such as exerting a texture suitable for use in women's clothing having a feeling.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is an enlarged perspective view of a single yarn after an alkali weight reduction treatment of a relaxation heat-treated yarn of a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn according to the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1: Fine groove
Y: Relaxed heat treated yarn of polyester multifilament undrawn yarn

Claims (5)

A woven or knitted fabric made of a polyester multifilament composite yarn, and the warp and / or weft of the woven or knitted fabric is composed of a polyester multifilament composite yarn made of two or more types of polyester multifilament yarn, and the polyester multifilament composite at least one polyester multifilament yarn constituting the yarn is closed a large number of fine grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis, the self-extensible in the dry heat shrinkage SHD to dry heat 160 ° C. is less than 0% A polyester woven or knitted fabric with excellent water absorption, which is a multifilament yarn. 2. The polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to claim 1, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn having surface fine grooves is a polyester multifilament yarn having a solid cross section. The polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to claim 1, wherein the polyester multifilament composite yarn including the polyester multifilament yarn having fine grooves on the surface is twisted to satisfy the following formula.
3000 / D ^1/2 ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / D ^1/2 where Tw is the number of twists per 1 m of yarn (times / m) and D is the total denier of the polyester multifilament composite yarn (den.) It is. Polyester multifilament undrawn yarn melt-spun at a spinning take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min. Is subjected to relaxation heat treatment in the range of relaxation rate of 10 to 60% to achieve SHD (A) <0%, and then another polyester multifilament Polyester multifilament undrawn yarn relaxed heat treated yarn by subjecting it to composite knitting with twisted yarn, twisting, weaving and knitting to obtain a woven or knitted fabric made of polyester multifilament composite yarn, and then performing alkali weight loss treatment of 5 to 35% A method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption, characterized in that a large number of fine grooves are formed on a fiber surface.
However, SHD (A) indicates the dry heat shrinkage rate of the heat-treated relaxation yarn of polyester multifilament undrawn yarn at 160 ° C. dry heat. The relaxation method of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn and the polyester multifilament composite yarn combined with other polyester multifilament drawn yarn are combined using air entanglement means by high-pressure air flow at room temperature. The method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric excellent in water absorption according to claim 4 .

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