JP3028712B2 - Spun yarn for uneven dyeing raising fabric and uneven dyeing raising fabric using the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a spun yarn which is used for a fabric which gives an unevenness to the surface of a woven fabric so as to give a feeling of worn out. More specifically, the present invention relates to a spun yarn for a stone-washed raised fabric, which gives a different direction to fine fluff on the surface of a woven fabric and expresses uneven dyeing gloss by gloss reflection.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art At present, the trend of fashion is casual orientation. In particular, in women's clothing, a feeling of everyday wear is received, and a change in the surface of cloth is required. Among them, as a clothing that gives a worn out feeling, for example, there is a method of dropping a dye by washing like jeans, a silk stone wash method, and the like.

[0003]

The stonewashing process, which uses the glossy reflection to make a difference in the light and shade on the surface of the fabric, is a method of expressing a shadow effect by using fibrillation of silk. JP-A-5-16366 describes a method for producing these fibrillations using fibril-type conjugate fibers.

[0004] However, these methods are made of special cotton, have a drawback that the fibrillation treatment and processing steps are complicated, and the processing cost cannot be reduced.

An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems and to provide a new and industrially stable inexpensive polyester spun yarn capable of uniformly dyeing a stone wash tone on an inexpensive fabric surface.

[0006]

The present invention has the following configuration to achieve the above object.

That is, a spun yarn made of polyester, having a dry heat shrinkage ratio at 180 ° C. of 6% or more and a twist coefficient (inch method) of 6.0 or more, characterized in that it is a non-uniform dyed and raised fabric. Spun yarn.

[0008] A non-woven fabric using the spun yarn as a warp yarn, wherein the warp yarn has a warp floating structure in which the warp yarn emerges from the surface of the fabric, and the warp yarn is raised. It is a dyed brushed fabric.

[0009] The conventional stone-washed fabric is obtained by fibrillating silk, causing fluff to appear on the surface of the fabric, imparting a different direction to these fluffs to create a difference in gloss, and expressing uneven dyeing-like surface changes.

[0010] It is difficult to produce this synthetic method stably and industrially using synthetic fibers, and as a result of various examinations of synthetic fiber unique dyeing methods, the spun yarn is made to have latent directions in the fluff in advance, and the brushed dyeing is performed. At times, they discovered that the different directions of these extremely short fluffs were evident, and that heat fixation could provide uniform uneven dyeing.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

In general, raising a blanket or a sheet is performed by pulling out a part of a single fiber of the yarn on the surface of the cloth with a needle cloth or the like, and the fluff is arranged in a certain direction.

As a result of intensive studies on a spun yarn for producing a fluff having an omnidirectionality, that is, a habit on a fabric, a single fiber on the surface near the center is sharpened along the yarn axis of the spun yarn subjected to strong twisting. When lightly cut with a knife, the single fiber has short fluff so that it can be snapped to the left and right in the direction of the yarn cross section. If you look closely at these fluffs, you will get a group of fluffs that are rounded, curved, and have different directions on the left and right. It has been found that such fluff has a different glossy reflection and is a basic technique for obtaining an uneven dyeing-like surface change.

These phenomena are caused by the fact that the single fiber is wound around the yarn surface by the twist of the spun yarn. The stronger the twist, the greater this phenomenon is, and the more directional fluff is obtained. As a result of examining the relationship between the misdirection and the twist, it is important that the spun yarn has a strong twist, and that the total twist coefficient (inch system) of the spun yarn is 6.0 or more. 6.0
If it is less than 1, the non-directional fluffs in which the single fibers blossom left and right in a collective manner in the yarn cross-sectional direction cannot be made to stand, and the fluff having curving property due to the twist cannot be obtained. The twist coefficient is a final value and may be a spun strong twisted yarn or may be twisted with a double twister or the like. The twist direction may be S or Z. In the case of a twin yarn, the direction of twist is the same as that of a single yarn, the total of the number of single yarn twists and the number of twists at the time of twin yarn is T / in, and the yarn count is twin yarn count. The twist coefficient K is the twist number T / in = K ×
(Cotton count) It is a value that can be expressed by ^1/2 .

Further, in order to obtain a yarn reversing action in the fabric,
It is important that the spun yarn of the present invention has a dry heat shrinkage at 180 ° C. of 6% or more. If it is less than 6%, the shrinkage force is small and the yarn reversal cannot be sufficiently performed together with the potential twist torque, which is not preferable.

Further, the residual twisting torque of the strongly twisted yarn is preferably 1.5 or more with a Snall index of 1.5 at a dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. close to the dyeing temperature. When the Snare index decreases, the reversing force that exceeds the yarn-to-thread constraint tends to be weak, and there is a tendency that randomization by twist torque is not sufficiently performed.

The snare index referred to here is a value obtained by quantifying the magnitude of the residual torque.
This is a value obtained by the fractionation process and the method B of JES-L1078.

On the other hand, by blending cationic dyeable polyester staples, it is possible to impart a surface change to the fabric, to match the difference in gloss due to fluff with the frost-like hue, and to greatly enhance the image of the surface change, thereby providing a sense of uneven dyeing. Is obtained.

The mixing ratio of the cationic dyeable polyester staple is preferably 5% to 70%, and if it is 4% or less, the frost-blowing effect tends not to be obtained. If it exceeds 70%, the hue of the cation-dyeable staple tends to be so strong that the melange effect cannot be obtained. Dyeing is not particularly limited, such as cationic dyes, disperse dyes, and white residue.

The raw polyester fiber used for obtaining the above-mentioned spun yarn is not particularly limited, but is preferably of a high elongation type having low rigidity in consideration of the warp during weaving, and the elongation is preferably 40% or more.

In order to obtain the above-described spun yarn shrinkage, the dry heat shrinkage (180 ° C.) of the raw cotton is desirably 5% or more. The raw cotton having a dry heat shrinkage (180 ° C.) of 5% or more is not limited to, for example, a raw material polymer of polyester, and is obtained by cutting a tow obtained by omitting a constant-length heat treatment in a usual drawing step after ordinary melt spinning. Obtainable.

Further, in order to increase the number of fluff, the denier is preferably 2 tener or less.

In addition, a bright yarn made of a polymer containing no or almost no matting agent is preferred because the difference in gloss is emphasized. Among the polyesters, polyethylene terephthalate can be preferably used, and polyethylene terephthalate in which a copolymer component is copolymerized at a ratio of 10 mol% or less can also be used. The sectional shape, cut length, and the like can be used without any particular limitation.

Next, an uneven dyeing tone using the spun yarn of the present invention.
The raised fabric will be described.

The fabric uses the above-mentioned spun yarn of the present invention as a warp yarn, and has a warp floating structure in which the warp yarn emerges on the surface of the fabric. Those fluffed so as to flower right and left are desirable.

The fluffing is not suitable for raising the fluff because it cuts a part of the single fiber of the warp yarn on the cloth surface and produces short fluff. Therefore, sandpaper is wound around a roller. Sanding raised is preferred.

In order to randomize and heat-fix the omnidirectional fluffs after raising, it is preferable to use a dyeing machine such as high-temperature liquid flow relaxation at the time of dyeing. By partially reversing or moving the yarn with, the collective anisotropic fluff after raising is further randomized, and an excellent uneven dyeing-like surface change can be obtained.

In order to reverse the warp yarn that has been strongly twisted, it is important to leave the twisting torque of the greige machine, and it is preferable to set the twist stop temperature after twisting the spun yarn as low as possible. In the high-temperature setting, the latent twisting torque of the strong twist yarn disappears, and even if the dyeing is performed at a high temperature of 110 to 140 ° C., there is a tendency that the reversal of the yarn in the fabric at the time of dyeing is small and the fluff is not randomized.

In the dyeing method, it is preferable to apply wrinkles simultaneously with the direction of fluff, and it is preferable to increase the amount of the stuffed fabric by 1.5 times or more than usual. Specifically, the packing amount of the ordinary fabric is such that the bath ratio (dyeing machine capacity [liter] / fabric weight [kg]) is 10 to 15, but the wrinkle processing in the present invention is performed at a bath ratio of 5 to 9. Is preferred.

[0030]

Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples.

Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 A 1.1 denier × 38 mm regular polyester raw cotton ("Tetron" manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) was used and had a dry heat shrinkage ratio (18) of a round cross section.
(0 ° C.) using 100% of the two types of raw cotton, 4.0% and 6.0%, to calculate the twist coefficient K = 20S by an ordinary spinning method.
Spinned at 3.4.

Subsequently, they were twisted with a double twister such that the total twist coefficient K became 5.5, 6.0, and 6.5, respectively.

Thereafter, the twisted cheese was twisted with steam at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes. This spun yarn is used for warp and weft yarns, and has a density of 115 × 65 (vertical × weft /
in) greed.

The greige machine was pressed and brushed while rotating a sand roller in which a 240-mesh sand paper was wound around a roller surface having a diameter of 30 cm.

The thus obtained fabric is pushed into a 1000 liter fabric by a high-temperature liquid jet dyeing machine (manufactured by Onomori Iron Works) at 130 ° C., and 150 kg of fabric is dyed, and randomization of fluff is given, and wrinkling is performed simultaneously. Was.

Thereafter, it is dried under a low tension (dry heat 130 ° C.),
Intermediate set under normal conditions.

Further, the weight was reduced by 15% at 98 ° C., and dried and finished.

The results are shown in Table 1. The dry heat shrinkage ratio (180
(C) of 4.0% (Comparative Examples 1 to 3), even if the total twist coefficient K was 6.0 or more, a sufficient uneven dyeing effect could not be obtained.

On the other hand, the dry heat shrinkage (180 ° C.) is 6.0%
With the above, the total twist coefficient K is 5.5 (Comparative Example 4).
Did not provide a sufficient uneven dyeing effect.

Those having a dry heat shrinkage (180 ° C.) of not less than 6.0% and a total twist coefficient K of not less than 6.0 (Examples 1 and 2) are uniform and rich in surface change, which is unique to synthetic fibers. A product having a stone wash tone uneven dyeing expression was obtained.
In addition, the bottom has a good feeling of wearing in a wear test and has good durability by washing.

[0041]

[Table 1] [Examples 3 to 8] Regular polyester raw cotton of 1.1 denier × 38 mm (“Tetron” manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) having a dry heat shrinkage (180 ° C.) of 7.0% in a round cross section; 1.5 denier x 38 mm cationically dyeable polyester staple with a round cross section having a dry heat shrinkage (180 ° C) of 8.0
% Of the raw cotton having a blend ratio of 30% as shown in Table 2, 30S was determined by a normal spinning method, and a twist coefficient K = 3.
5 was spun.

Subsequently, double twisting was performed so that the total twist coefficient K was 6.5.

Thereafter, the twisted cheese was twisted with steam at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes. This spun yarn is used for warp and weft yarns, and has a density of 115 × 65 (vertical × weft /
in) greed.

The obtained greige was processed in the same manner as in Example 1. However, weight reduction processing was omitted.

The results are shown in Table 2. As a result, an excellent product having both uneven expression of stone wash tone and rich hue of melange, which is rich in surface change, was obtained. These were epoch-making things that greatly leapt the image of surface change.

When the blending ratio of the cationic dyeable polyester staple was 3% (Example 3), the melange effect was small. When the blending ratio of the cationic dyeable polyester staple was 80% (Example 8), the cationic dyeing hue was strong and the melange effect was small.

[0047]

[Table 2]

[0048]

As described above, according to the present invention, in obtaining an uneven dyed woven fabric composed of a spun polyester yarn, the fluff can be made to have an extremely good directionality, and the fluff can be uniform and rich in surface change. Stone wash-like uneven dyeing expression can be realized.

Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI D06C 11/00 D06C 11/00 Z D06P 3/82 D06P 3/82 5/00 120 5/00 120A (56) References JP-A-58-58 174642 (JP, A) JP-A-59-9232 (JP, A) JP-B-47-46019 (JP, B1) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02G 3/26 D01F 6 / 62 D02G 3/04 D03D 13/00 D03D 15/00 D06C 11/00 D06P 3/82-3/874 D06P 5/00

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A spun yarn made of polyester, wherein 1
Non-uniform dyeing characterized by having a dry heat shrinkage at 80 ° C of 6% or more and a twist coefficient (inch method) of 6.0 or more.
Spun yarn for brushed fabric. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the cationic dyeable polyester staple is 5
2. The spun yarn for uneven dyeing-like raised fabric according to claim 1, wherein the spun yarn is blended by 70 to 70%. 3. A yarn uneven dyeing tone brushed fabric for spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the Senart index of 1.5 or more at 180 ° C. dry heat of. 4. A fabric using the spun yarn according to claim 1, 2 or 3 as a warp yarn, wherein the warp yarn has a warp floating structure in which the warp yarn emerges on the surface of the fabric. An uneven dyeing-like raised fabric characterized by the fact that: