JP2752319B2 - Wool / rayon blend fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a high-quality fabric woven using a wool / rayon blend yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A blended yarn of wool fiber and rayon fiber and a woven fabric using the blended yarn have conventionally been known to reduce the cost in both the spinning spinning and the carding spinning.

[0003] Cards are used in the spinning type spinning, and cards, gil, combs and the like are also used in the worsted type spinning. Therefore, defects such as neps are likely to occur. 0-5.5
Denier is preferred.

[0004]

However, when the fineness of the rayon fiber is 3.0 to 5.5 denier, the count of the blended yarn obtained is large and the woven fabric woven with this yarn is hard and heavy. Become. In addition, there is also a problem that due to the difference in dyeing properties between wool fibers and rayon fibers, different colors are apt to appear, which is apt to appear remarkably.

[0005] Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric which is rich in drapability and suppleness, has a clean surface, and is excellent in coloring while maintaining the unique texture of wool.

[0006]

According to a first aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method for achieving the above object, wherein the weight ratio is 30 to 60%.
A woven fabric obtained by using a blended yarn of wool fibers of the formula (1) and rayon fibers having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, wherein the wool fibers have a fineness of 24 μ or less, an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the rayon fibers have a fineness. Is a tow staple having a denier of 2 denier or less and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the twist coefficient of the blended yarn is 80 to 150.
The gist of the invention according to the present invention is that the woven fabric is raised, and the gist of the invention according to claim 3 is that the surface of the woven fabric is covered with a resin. Here, the toe staple means a staple made by cutting the tow into a sliver (the same applies hereinafter).

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a woven fabric which is woven using a twisted yarn of a wool fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn and a synthetic fiber, and has a textured uneven surface, wherein the wool fiber has a weight ratio of Is 30 to 60%, the fineness is 24 μm or less, and the average fiber length is 60 mm or more. The rayon fiber is a tow staple having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, a fineness of 2 denier or less, and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more. The gist is that the twist coefficient of the blended yarn is 80 to 150, the synthetic fiber is 30 to 75 denier, and the twist coefficient of the intertwisted yarn is 80 to 150. The synthetic filaments include monofilaments and multifilaments of all synthetic fibers in addition to nylon and polyester. In addition, the textured irregularities present on the surface of the woven fabric can be obtained by subjecting the woven fabric to crimping and / or tumbling. In addition, a general method for producing the above-mentioned twisted yarn is that the above-mentioned wool fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn and the above-mentioned synthetic fiber are plied by a plier and wound into a cheese shape, and then the plied yarn is wound. The twisting is performed by giving a real twist with a double twister, but is not limited to this, and a straight twisting method using a ring twisting machine may be used.

According to a fifth aspect of the present invention, the weight ratio is 30-60.
% Of wool fibers and 60 to 30% by weight of rayon fibers, the woven fabric being woven using a twisted yarn comprising at least one of the single fibers of the wool / rayon mixed staple fiber bundle. The end is in the inner layer of the formed yarn,
The other end of the fiber is an air false twist spun yarn in which the single fiber with the winding has the same arrangement direction and is wound in a real twist out of the generated yarn outer layer portion, and the wool fiber has a fineness of 24 μm. Hereinafter, while the average fiber length is 60 mm or more,
The rayon fiber has a fineness of 2 denier or less and an average fiber length of 6
It is a tow staple of 0 mm or more, and the twist coefficient of the intertwisted yarn is 80 to 150. As shown in FIG. 1, the air false twist spun yarn is obtained by drawing a wool / rayon blended staple fiber bundle (2) from the can (1), and sequentially forming a middle roller pair (3) having a back roller pair (3) and an apron (4). 5), by passing through a front roller pair (6), a first air injection nozzle (7), a defibrating tube (8), a second air injection nozzle (9), and a pull-out roller pair (10). . Here, as shown in FIG. 1, both the first air injection nozzle (7) and the second air injection nozzle (9) are provided with a thread passage hole (7a) provided in the center,
(9a) and injection holes (7b), (9b) communicating therewith
The injection holes (7b) and (9b) are provided with respect to the yarn passage holes (7a) and (9a).
It is in a direction in contact with the outer periphery of (9a) and communicates with the yarn advancing direction at a predetermined angle. And the injection hole (7
b) and (9b), the air spouting into the yarn passage holes (7a) and (9a) generates a swirling spiral flow of air flowing in the yarn traveling direction in the yarn passage holes (7a) and (9a).
The fiber bundle and the spun yarn are drawn out positively in the yarn traveling direction while rotating or turning. In addition, the swirling direction of the air swirl flow formed in each of the first air injection nozzle (7) and the second air injection nozzle (9) is opposite to each other.

The invention according to claim 6 further comprises a wool fiber /
What is claimed is: 1. A woven fabric woven using a twisted yarn of a rayon fiber blended yarn and a synthetic fiber, wherein the blended yarn has one end of a single fiber of a wool / rayon blended staple fiber bundle in an inner layer portion of a generated yarn, and The other end is an air false twist spun yarn in which the arrangement of the wound single fibers is in the same arrangement direction and is wound in a real twist out of the generated yarn outer layer portion, and
The wool fiber has a weight ratio of 30 to 60% and a fineness of 24 μ or less,
An average fiber length of 60 mm or more, the rayon fiber is a tow staple having a weight ratio of 30 to 60%, a fineness of 2 denier or less, and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more; the synthetic fiber is 30 to 75 denier; The gist is that the twist coefficient of the twisted yarn is 80 to 150.

[0010]

According to the first to third aspects of the present invention, wool /
Although the weight ratio of rayon is 30 to 60%, if the rayon fiber content is 30% or less, the flexibility which is the characteristic of rayon fiber is weakened, and the fabric does not become rich in drape property. % Or more, the flexibility of the rayon fiber is emphasized and the fabric becomes poor in tension,
This is because the woven fabric lacks shrink resistance due to shrinkage of rayon fibers when wet. Also, due to the difference in dyeing properties between wool fiber and rayon fiber (wool fiber is dyed with an acid dye and rayon fiber is dyed with an alkaline dye), if wool fiber is more than 60%, it is attempted to dye it in the same color. There is also a problem that fiber pain becomes severe.

Further, tow staple rayon fibers are used because, in carding spinning using a card in the pre-spinning step, rayon fibers having finer and weaker fineness than wool fibers are cut in the carding step, and yarn spots and yarn spots are formed. This is because it is not possible to obtain a high quality worsted yarn due to the nep, and it is not necessary to go through the carding process by using tow staples, and it is possible to obtain good quality by sliver mixing the tow staples in the recomb or gil process. This is because the worsted yarn can be obtained.

Also, the fineness of the wool fiber is set to 24 μ or less,
The fineness of the rayon fiber is set to 2 deniers or less. This is because if the fineness is more than 24 μ, a fine yarn having a high drape property cannot be obtained, and the wool fiber and Average rayon fiber length is 6
When it is 0 mm or more, if it is less than 60 mm, the strength and elongation of the yarn are inferior, the number of fluffs increases, and problems such as yarn breakage and weeping during weaving occur. This is because a yarn cannot be obtained.

Further, the twist coefficient of the blended yarn is set to 80 to 150. This is because if the twist coefficient is less than 80, the yarn binding property is poor, and there is a problem in weaving due to soaking, fluffing and the like. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient is 150 or more, the strength and elongation of the yarn is significantly reduced, which causes problems in weaving such as yarn breakage, and the obtained woven fabric has a firm feeling and the required drape property is obtained. There is a problem that can not be.

[0014] Further, the fiber of the wool fiber is set to 24μ or less,
Because the fineness of rayon fiber is less than 2 denier,
The number of fibers constituting the yarn is large, and the woven fabric has an extremely high raised density, and has a clean and smooth surface.

Further, in the wet state, unlike wool fiber, rayon fiber has a characteristic of easily shrinking. Therefore, in the present invention, wool fiber and / or rayon fiber are fixed with a resin to suppress the behavior.

In the invention according to the fourth aspect, the wool fiber is 30 to 60% by weight, the fineness is 24 μm or less, and the average fiber length is 60%.
mm or more, the rayon fiber is a tow staple having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, a fineness of 2 denier or less, and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more as described above, and the twist coefficient of the blended yarn is set to 80 to 150. As described above, the intertwisting of the blended yarn with the synthetic fiber of 30 to 75 denier takes into consideration the problem of the yarn strength of the worsted yarn and the crimping. That is, since the strength of a worsted single yarn is low, twin yarns of the same single yarn are generally used for weaving. In this case, the actual yarn count becomes thick, and the desired drape property and flexibility are rich. Because a woven fabric cannot be obtained, 30
By twisting with a synthetic fiber of ~ 75 denier, a yarn having a fine count and the necessary strength for weaving can be obtained. In addition, when a plain woven fabric using a strong twist yarn of wool fiber is immersed in hot water, a part of the yarn set returns, and the fiber surface tends to be uneven while the fiber is stretched and the twist tends to return. The more the ratio of wool fibers occupied by the number increases, the more remarkable it appears. By twisting synthetic filaments having larger heat shrinkage than wool fibers, a more three-dimensional and averaged grain can be obtained.

The reason why the twist coefficient is set to 80 to 150 is as follows.
If it is less than 80, it is difficult to reliably restrain the fibers constituting the blended yarn, resulting in fluffing during weaving, a significant decrease in weaving efficiency, a decrease in the quality of the fabric, and a desired grain cannot be obtained. This is because the strength and elongation of the yarn suddenly decrease to cause frequent yarn breakage during weaving, and the texture of the woven fabric deteriorates.

The mixed air false twist type spun yarn of wool fiber and rayon fiber in the invention according to claim 5 is, as described above,
Since one end of the single fiber of the wool / rayon blended staple fiber bundle is in the inner layer of the produced yarn and the other end is in the outer layer and has a yarn structure wound in a real twist, the generation of fluff is small, and In addition, since the unevenness of the wound fiber becomes a resistance and the yarn behavior after weaving is suppressed, the generation of pills is extremely small.

The reason why the twist coefficient of the twisted yarn is set to 80 to 150 is that if it is less than 80, it is difficult to reliably restrain the fibers constituting the twisted yarn, and it is fuzzy at the time of weaving, a remarkable decrease in weaving efficiency, and the quality of the woven fabric. On the other hand, when it is 150 or more, the strength and elongation of the yarn sharply decreases, so that yarn breakage occurs frequently during weaving and the texture of the fabric deteriorates.

In the invention according to claim 6, the air false twist spun yarn according to claim 5 and the 30-75 denier synthetic filament are twisted with a twist coefficient of 80-150. This is the same as the reason in the invention according to item 4.

[0021]

Embodiments of the present invention will be described below.

Example 1 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 22 μm and an average fiber length of 78 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
Blended with 35% rayon toe staples with a yarn count of 1/46 Nm (meter count) and a twist of Z110
A wool / rayon blended ring spun yarn of 0 T / m was obtained. Then, the finished spinning blended yarn is used as a warp and a weft to give a finished density (warp / weft) of 83.8 (lines / inch) /61.2 (lines / weft).
Inch) plain woven fabric, which is then baked, boiled, and washed.
The steps of dry vulcanization-staining-dry vulcanization-vase vulcanization-vapor vulcanization were sequentially performed to obtain the fabric of Example 1.

The conditions of the dyeing step are as follows: I. Ac
id Yellow 17 is 0.084% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Red 82 is 0.018% owf,
C. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.018% ow
f, 20.0% owf of anhydrous borate, 1.4% of leveling agent
The woven fabric was immersed in a dye liquor containing owf and formic acid of 2.5% owf and boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 2 Using the blended spun yarn of Example 1 as a warp and a weft, a finishing density (warp / weft) of 121.2 (lines / inch) /79.8.
(Book / inch) Venetian fabric was prepared, and the respective processes of shaving-boiling-washing-washing-drying-dyeing-drying-steaming were performed in this order to obtain the fabric of Example 2.

The conditions of the dyeing step are as follows: I. Di
Rect Yellow 130 is 0.650% ow
f, C.I. I. Direct Red 79 0.004
% Owf, C.I. I. Direct Blue 81 was immersed in a dyeing liquor of 0.243% owf, anhydrous boron nitrate of 1.5% owf, and formic acid (90%) of 1.0% owf for 30 minutes at 80 ° C.

Comparative Example 1 A merino wool having a fineness of 21.3 μ and an average fiber length of 82 mm was used, the yarn count was 1/40 Nm, and the number of twists was Z900T.
/ M of ring spun yarn. Then, this spun yarn is used as a warp and a weft to give a finished density (warp / weft) of 102.5 (lines / weft).
Inches) /77.7 (books / inch) Venetian fabrics (5 sheets of satin) are made, and each process of sintering, boiled, washed, dried, stained, dried, and steamed is performed sequentially. Then, the fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained.

The conditions for the dyeing are as follows: I. Acid
Yellow 17 has 0.76% owf, C.I. I. A
cid Red 82 is 0.05% owf, C.I. I. A
Cid Blue 23 is 0.06% owf, anhydrous boric acid is 20.0% owf, leveling agent is 1.4% owf, formic acid is immersed in a dyeing solution of 2.5% owf, and the fabric is immersed for 40 minutes. It was boiled.

Example 3 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μ and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
Was blended with 35% of rayon tow staples to obtain a blended spun yarn having a yarn count of 2/60 Nm, a lower twist number of Z650 T / m and a upper twist number of S900 T / m. This is then used for warp and weft to give a finished density (warp / weft) of 81.1 (lines / weft).
Inches) /65.1 (books / inch) 2/2 twill fabrics are made, and then veil-washing-shrinking-washing-boiler-drying-dyeing-drying-napping-shearing-kama steaming- Each step of steaming was sequentially performed to obtain a woven fabric of Example 3.

The conditions for the dyeing step are as follows: I. Acid
Yellow 17 has 0.659% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Red 82 is 0.843% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.054% owf,
20.0% owf anhydrous boat salt, 1.4% ow leveling agent
f, The woven fabric was immersed in a dye liquor containing 2.5% owf of formic acid and boiled for 40 minutes.

Comparative Example 2 40% merino wool having a fineness of 22.5 μm and an average fiber length of 79 mm, a fineness of 3.0 denier and an average fiber length of 81
mm rayon soup 60% and the yarn count is 2 /
48Nm, number of lower twists is Z650T / m, number of upper twists is S680
A mixed spinning twin yarn of T / m was obtained. Then, a 2/2 twill fabric having a finishing density (warp / weft) of 77.8 (books / inch) /64.5 (books / inch) is made by using this as a warp and a weft. The steps of washing, boiling, drying, dyeing, drying, raising, shaving, kamamo, and steaming were sequentially performed to obtain a fabric of Comparative Example 2.

The conditions of the dyeing step are as follows: I. Acid
Yellow 17 is 0.550% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Red 82 is 0.673% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.134% owf,
20.0% owf anhydrous boat salt, 1.4% ow leveling agent
f, After immersing the fabric in a dye solution containing 2.5% owf formic acid,
It was boiled for 0 minutes.

Example 4 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μ and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
Blended with 35% rayon tow staples to obtain a blended spun twin yarn having a yarn count of 2/60 Nm, a lower twist number of Z650 T / m and a upper twist number of S900 T / m, and a fineness of 20 μm.
A blend of 65% merino wool having an average fiber length of 73 mm, 35% rayon tow staples having a fineness of 1.5 denier and an average fiber length of 81 mm has a yarn count of 3/60.
Nm, the number of lower twists is Z650T / m, and the number of upper twists is S500T /
m was obtained. Then, using a twin yarn as a warp and a triple yarn as a weft, a five-satin satin fabric having a finishing density (warp / weft) of 80.1 (books / inch) /68.9 (books / inch) was prepared and washed. Each of the steps of villi, shrinkage, washing, drying, staining, drying, steaming, raising, shaving, and continuous steaming was sequentially performed to obtain the fabric of Example 4.

The conditions for the dyeing step are as follows: I. Acid
Yellow 17 has 0.324% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Red 82 is 0.052% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.061% owf,
20.0% owf anhydrous boat salt, 1.4% ow leveling agent
f, The fabric was immersed in a dye solution containing 2.5% owf of formic acid, and then boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 5 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μ and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
Blended with 35% rayon tow staples to obtain a blended spun twin yarn having a yarn count of 2/60 Nm, a lower twist number of Z650 T / m, and a upper twist number of S900 T / m.
μ Merino wool 65% and fineness 1.5 denier rayon fiber 35% blended, yarn count 3 / 48Nm,
A blended triple yarn having a lower twist number of Z570 T / m and a upper twist number of S360 T / m was obtained. Then, using a twin yarn as a warp and a triple yarn as a weft, a finishing density (warp / weft) of 81.2 (lines / inch) /
68.0 satin fabrics (book / inch) were obtained. Then, this was processed in the same processing step and dyeing conditions as in Example 4,
The fabric of Example 5 was obtained.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 Merino wool having a fineness of 23.5 μ and an average fiber length of 80 mm was mixed with 55 denier of 3.0 denier and an average fiber length of 80 mm to give a yarn count of 2/48 N.
m, number of lower twists is Z600T / m, number of upper twists is S540T / m
Was obtained. Next, this mixed spinning yarn was used for warp and weft to obtain five satin fabrics having a finishing density (warp / weft) of 79.3 (books / inch) /63.6 (books / inch).
Then, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 3 was obtained by successively performing the washing process, the washing process, the shrinking process, the washing process, the drying process, the dyeing, the drying process, the raising process, the shaving, and the continuous process.

The conditions for the dyeing step are as follows: I. Ac
id Yellow 17 is 0.546% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Red 82 is 0.052% owf,
C. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.013% ow
f, 20.0% owf of anhydrous borate, 1.4% of leveling agent
The woven fabric was immersed in a dye liquor containing owf and formic acid of 2.5% owf, followed by boiling for 40 minutes.

Example 6 The same plain woven fabric as in Example 1 was prepared by adding boiled cloth-washing cloth-boiled cloth-dry cloth-staining-hair-burning-brush-pot steaming-resin processing-dry cloth-steaming cloth-washing cloth. The respective steps of -dry vulcanization-steaming-vulcanization were sequentially performed to obtain a fabric of Example 6.

The dyeing conditions in the dyeing step are as follows: I.
Acid Yellow 17 is 0.435% owf,
C. I. Acid Red 82 is 0.236% ow
f, C.I. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.321%
owf, leveling agent 1.4% owf, formic acid 2.5% ow
The fabric was immersed in the dyeing solution of f and boiled for 40 minutes. In addition, resin processing is Elastron NSW (urethane-based resin, manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 70 g / l, impranil DLN
(Silicone resin, Bayer) 20g / l, Na
₃ g / l of HCO ₃ (sodium bicarbonate) and 5 to 10 cc / l of CT-II (softening agent, manufactured by Nikko Co.) were applied by a pad method.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 4 Finish density (process / weft) of 7 using the spun yarn of Comparative Example 1
2.6 (books / inch) /61.2 (books / inch) plain fabrics are made, and boiled-washed-washed-dry-stained-dough-hair-burned-brush-resin-processed-dough- The respective steps of pot steaming-washing-washing-drying-steaming were carried out sequentially to obtain a fabric of Comparative Example 4.

The dyeing conditions in the dyeing step are as follows: I.
Acid Yellow 17 is 0.76% owf,
C. I. Acid Red 257 is 0.80% ow
f, C.I. I. Acid Violet 42 0.37
% Owf, 20.0% owf of anhydrous bowel nitrate, 1.4% owf of leveling agent, and 2.0% owf of formic acid. In addition, resin processing is performed using Elastron NSW (urethane resin, manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo).
0 g / l, inplanyl DLN (silicone resin, B
Ayer) 20 g / l, NaHCO ₃ (sodium bicarbonate) 3 g / l, CT-II (softener, Nikko) 5
10 cc / l was applied by the pad method.

Example 7 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 22 μm and an average fiber length of 78 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
Was blended with 35% of rayon tow staples to obtain a blended spun yarn having a yarn count of 1/48 Nm and a twist number of Z570 T / m. Next, the blended spun yarn and a nylon monofilament having a fineness of 30 denier were twisted at a twist number of 600 T / m to obtain a twisted yarn having a yarn count of 1/38 Nm. Then, this twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to obtain a plain fabric having a finish density (warp / weft) of 75.9 (books / inch) /60.4 (books / inch). Next, the plain fabric was subjected to each of the steps of washing, tumbling, boiling, drying, heating, dyeing, drying, and continuous steaming to obtain a fabric of Example 7.

The conditions for the dyeing step are as follows: I. Ac
id Yellow 17 is 0.750% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Red 82 is 0.042% owf,
C. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.074% ow
f, 20.0% owf of anhydrous borate, 1.4% of leveling agent
The woven fabric was immersed in a dye liquor containing owf and formic acid of 2.5% owf and then boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 8 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
The yarn count is 1 /
A mixed spun yarn having a twist of 60 Nm and a twist number of Z660 T / m was obtained.
Next, the blended spun yarn and a nylon monofilament having a fineness of 30 denier were twisted at a twist number of 800 T / m to obtain a twisted yarn having a yarn count of 1/45 Nm. Then, this twisted yarn is used for warp and weft and the finished density (warp / weft) is 10
A plain fabric of 3.2 (books / inch) /85.4 (books / inch) was obtained. Then, the same steps as in Example 7 were sequentially performed on this plain fabric to obtain a plain fabric of Example 8.

However, the conditions of the dyeing step are as follows: I. Dir
ect Yellow 130 is 0.6% owf, C.I.
I. Direct Red 79 is 0.04% owf,
C. I. Direct Blue 81 is 0.07% o
The plain woven fabric was immersed for 30 minutes in a dyeing solution 80 ° C. containing 1.5% owf of wf and anhydrous boric acid and 1.0% owf of formic acid (90%).

Comparative Example 5 Using merino wool having a fineness of 21.3 μ and an average fiber length of 82 mm, the yarn count was 1/60 Nm and the number of twists was Z660T.
/ M ring spun yarn, and the spun yarn and 30 denier nylon monofilament are twisted to give a yarn count of 4
7 Nm, a twisted yarn having a twist number of Z700 T / m was obtained. Using this yarn as a warp and a weft, the finished density (warp / weft) is 75.
7 (books / inch) /65.1 (books / inch) plain fabrics were prepared, and the same processing steps as in Example 7 were sequentially performed on the plain fabrics to obtain a fabric of Comparative Example 5.

The conditions for the dyeing step are as follows: I. Acid
Red 257 has 0.80% owf, C.I. I. Aci
d Violet 42 is 0.37% owf, anhydrous boric acid is 20.0% owf, leveling agent is 1.40% owf and formic acid is 2.0% owf.
And boiled for minutes.

Example 9 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μ and an average fiber length of 73 mm
0%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
Blended with 40% rayon fiber of No. 72, twist index 1
50 air-twisted spun yarns were obtained, and this was twisted and then twisted S1.
A twist of 100 T / m was added to make a twin yarn having a yarn count of 2/72 Nm. Then, using this twin yarn as a warp and a weft, the finished density (warp / weft) is 92.9 (books / inch) /58.7.
(Books / inch) 2/1 GABA fabric
The steps of washing, boiling, drying, heating, dyeing, drying, kamamo, and open steaming were sequentially performed to obtain a fabric of Example 9.
In addition, the twist index means that a spun yarn is attached with a constant tension between two clamps regulated at a fixed interval, one of the clamps is rotated to loosen the spun yarn, and after the slack is maximally loosened, the spinning is continued. When the spun yarn returns to its original length under the initially applied tension, the number of rotations up to that point is measured, and this value is halved. .

However, the conditions of the dyeing step are C.I. I. Acid
Yellow 17 has 0.490% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Red 82 is 0.137% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.056% owf,
20.0% owf anhydrous boat salt, 1.4% ow leveling agent
f, formic acid (90%) in 2.0% owf
One gabber fabric was dipped and boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 10 A venetian fabric having a finishing density (warp / weft) of 111.5 (lines / inch) /56.7 (lines / inch) was obtained by using the twin yarns of Example 9 as warps and wefts. The steps of washing, boiling, drying, dyeing, drying, shaving, brushing, and steaming were sequentially performed to obtain a fabric of Example 10.

The conditions of the dyeing step are as follows: I. Direc
t Yellow 130 is 0.55% owf, C.I.
I. Direct Red 79 is 0.06% owf,
C. I. Direct Blue 81 is 0.10% o
wf, 1.50% owf, anhydrous formic acid (90%)
The venetian fabric was immersed in a dyeing solution at 80 ° C. having a 1.0% owf for 30 minutes.

Comparative Example 6 Using merino wool having a fineness of 19.7 μm and an average fiber length of 72 mm, the yarn count was 1/72 Nm and the number of ply twists was Z740T.
/ M ring spun single yarn is manufactured, and after twisting the two single yarns, a twist of S730 T / m is added to the yarn to give a yarn count of 2/7.
The yarn was 2 Nm. The twin yarn is then used as a warp and a weft to give a five-sheet satin fabric having a finishing density (warp / weft) of 111.5 (books / inch) /68.3 (books / inch). Each of the steps of drying, drying, dyeing, drying, and steaming was sequentially performed to obtain a woven fabric of Comparative Example 6.

The dyeing conditions in the dyeing step are as follows: I.
Acid Yellow 17 is 0.43% owf,
C. I. Acid Red 82 is 0.23% owf,
C. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.32% ow
f, 20.0% owf of anhydrous borate, 1.40 of leveling agent
% Owf, formic acid (90%) was immersed in a dyeing solution containing 2.50% owf, and the resulting cloth was boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 11 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
Blended with 35% rayon fiber of No. 48, twist index 1
50 air-twisted spun yarns (false-twisted yarns in the Z direction) were obtained, and this was combined with a nylon filament having a fineness of 30 denier. The yarn was 2/74 Nm. Then, using this twin yarn as a warp and a weft, the finishing density (warp / weft) is 74.3 (lines / weft).
Example 11: A plain woven fabric of (inch) /59.5 (books / inch) was subjected to each of the steps of washing, tumbler, boiled, dried, dried, and dyeing, dried, and dried. Was obtained.

The conditions for the dyeing step are as follows: I. Acid
Yellow 17 has 0.760% owf, C.I. I. A
cid Red 82 is 0.042% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Blue 23 is 0.074% owf, anhydrous borate is 20.0% owf, leveling agent is 1.4% owf,
The plain fabric was immersed in a dyeing solution containing 2.5% owf of formic acid (90%) and boiled for 40 minutes.

Comparative Example 7 Using a merino wool having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm, a single yarn having a yarn count of 54 and a lower twist number (Z direction) of 620 T / m was obtained, and a nylon filament having a fineness of 50 denier was obtained. A twist of 700 T / m was added after the doubling to obtain a single yarn having a yarn count of 38 Nm. The single yarn was used as a warp and a weft to give a plain fabric having a finished density (warp / weft) of 72.6 (books / inch) /63.1 (books / inch). Then, this was washed-tumbler-boiled-dried villi-shaved-stained-
The respective steps of dry and continuous steaming were sequentially performed to obtain a woven fabric of Comparative Example 7.

The conditions for the dyeing step are as follows: I. Ac
id Yellow 17 is 0.72% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Red 82 is 0.04% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.17% owf, anhydrous boric acid is 20.0% owf, and leveling agent is 1.4% ow.
f, The plain fabric was immersed in a 1.0% owf dye solution of formic acid (90%) and boiled for 40 minutes.

Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7
The woven fabrics were evaluated for drapability, surface beauty, and coloring. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0058]

[Table 1]

The drapability is described in JIS L1.
096 G method, according to JIS
The coloring was evaluated by a pilling test according to the L 1076 A method, and the color development was evaluated by a dye fastness test according to JIS L 0844 A method. In the drapability test, the smaller the value is, the more drapable, the larger the value in the pilling test, the higher the anti-pilling property, and the larger the value in the dyeing fastness test, the higher the dyeing fastness.

As shown in Table 1, all of the examples of the present invention are superior to those of the comparative examples in each of the items of the drape property, the anti-pilling property and the color fastness.

[0061]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain various woven fabrics which are rich in drapability and suppleness, have a clean surface, and are excellent in coloring while maintaining the unique texture of wool.

According to the second aspect of the present invention, the fineness of the rayon fiber is set to 2 deniers or less, so that the number of fibers constituting the yarn is increased as compared with the case of 100% wool, and therefore, the high brushed density is excellent. You can get the product. or,
In order to prevent the base cloth from being damaged by brushing and the strength of the woven fabric being deteriorated, it is necessary to make the woven standard tighter than that of ordinary woven cloth. I have to be. However, according to the present invention, since the number of constituent fibers occupied in one yarn is more than 100% of wool, the fabric strong deterioration in the raising process is small, and the weight per unit area can be reduced.
At the same time, the drape property peculiar to rayon greatly affects the feeling, and has an excellent punch feeling.

In resin processing performed for the purpose of obtaining a washable product, the target product is wool fiber 10
In the case of a 0% woven fabric, it is necessary to increase the resin concentration in order to prevent the water repellency of wool fibers and the relaxation shrinkage and felt shrinkage that occur during washing. However, according to the invention of claim 3, since the wool fiber having water repellency has a yarn configuration in which a number of hydrophilic rayon fibers surround the wool fiber, a low-concentration resin is used. Thus, the object can be achieved, and the adverse effect that the woven fabric becomes hard can be prevented.

In a woven fabric made of 100% wool fiber, the yarn is easily twisted if the yarn is strongly twisted, but the wool has a hygral expansion (a phenomenon in which the woven fabric elongates due to an increase in the moisture content of the woven fabric and shrinks due to a decrease). Easy to wake up
There is a drawback that the texture is greatly changed.
According to the invention, since the rayon fiber does not have the property of swelling due to moisture absorption, the rayon fiber can suppress the higral expansion of the wool fiber, and can obtain a textured fabric having a stable feeling.

According to the fifth and sixth aspects of the present invention, since the air false twisted spun yarn having no real twist in the core of the yarn is used, the single yarn or the conjugated yarn is converted into a strong twisted yarn. Even though the repulsive force of the yarn is weak, the woven fabric using this becomes excellent in drapability, and because of the structure of the yarn, there is no long fluff, and it has short dense fluff, so that the fabric with soft touch Become.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory view schematically showing an apparatus for producing an air false twist spun yarn.

[Explanation of symbols]

 Reference Signs List 1 cans 2 staple fiber bundle 3 back roller pair 4 apron 5 middle roller pair 6 front roller pair 7 first air injection nozzle 8 defibration tube 9 second air injection nozzle 10 pull-out roller pair

Claims (6)

(57) [Claims] 1. A woven fabric woven using a blended yarn of a wool fiber having a weight ratio of 30 to 60% and a rayon fiber having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, wherein the wool fiber has a fineness of 24 μ or less and an average fiber length. Is 60m
m or more, the rayon fiber is a tow staple having a fineness of 2 denier or less, an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and a twist coefficient of the mixed spun yarn of 80 to 150. 2. The wool / rayon blend fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is raised. 3. The wool / rayon blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein the surface of the fabric is coated with a resin. 4. A woven fabric which is woven using a twisted yarn of a wool fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn and a synthetic fiber, and has a textured uneven surface, wherein the wool fiber has a weight ratio of 30 to 60%, The rayon fiber is a tow staple having a fineness of 24 μm or less, an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, a fineness of 2 denier or less, and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more. A wool / rayon blend woven fabric having a modulus of 80 to 150, the synthetic filaments having a density of 30 to 75 denier, and the twisting coefficient of the intertwisted yarn being 80 to 150. 5. A woven fabric woven using a twisted yarn containing at least a blended yarn of a wool fiber having a weight ratio of 30 to 60% and a rayon fiber having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, wherein the blended yarn is wool / One end of the single fiber of the rayon-blend staple fiber bundle is in the inner layer of the generated yarn, and the other end of the fiber comes out of the outer layer of the generated yarn and is wound in a real twist form,
An air false twist spun yarn in which the arrangement of each wound single fiber is in the same arrangement direction, the wool fiber has a fineness of 24 μm or less, an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the rayon fiber has a fineness of 2 denier or less, average A wool / rayon blend fabric, which is a tow staple having a fiber length of 60 mm or more, wherein the twist coefficient of the intertwisted yarn is 80 to 150. 6. A woven fabric woven by using a twisted yarn of a wool fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn and a synthetic fiber, wherein the blended yarn is formed as one end of a single fiber of a wool / rayon blended staple fiber bundle. In the inner layer portion, the other end of the fiber comes out to the generated yarn outer layer portion and is wound around in a real twist,
The arrangement of each wound single fiber is an air false twist spun yarn in the same arrangement direction, and the wool fiber has a weight ratio of 30 to 30.
60%, fineness of 24 μm or less, average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the rayon fiber has a weight ratio of 30 to 60%,
Tow with a fineness of 2 denier or less and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more
A wool / rayon blended woven fabric, wherein the synthetic fiber is 30 to 75 denier and the twist coefficient of the intertwisted yarn is 80 to 150.