JP3269143B2 - Composite fiber woven / knitted fabric excellent in texture and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven / knitted composite fiber of polyester fiber and regenerated cellulose fiber, and more particularly, to a soft-textured, drapable, silk-washer-like, elegant appearance, and worn. TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric for clothing which has an excellent feeling and is easy to handle and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Washer-processed silk 100%
Has the advantage that the texture is soft and has an elegant appearance and is excellent in wearing feeling, but the strength is low,
There was a problem that the dyeability and the washing resistance were poor. Another problem is that it is expensive because it has scratches and unevenness and cannot be mass-produced.

On the other hand, a woven or knitted fabric made of regenerated cellulose fiber aiming at silk-like has a problem that the texture is coarse and hard compared with silk, the texture is cold, the softness and swelling are lacking, and the fabric is easily wrinkled and the shrinkage due to washing is large. is there. In addition, the woven and knitted fabric made of polyester fiber has the drawback that the texture is cold, the surface is glaring, the plastic is glossy and lacks elegance, it has no sweat absorption / moisture absorption, and it is easy to store static electricity, so the feeling of wearing is inferior Had.

[0004] For the purpose of complementing the disadvantages of regenerated cellulose fibers and polyester fibers, woven and knitted fabrics made of both composite fibers have been studied. However, these conventional regenerated cellulose / polyester composite fiber woven / knitted fabrics have a rough and hard texture, lack softness, have no drape, elasticity, and swelling, and have a cool touch, and furthermore, they have a flat appearance and are luxurious without luxury. Was lacking.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a regenerated cellulose / polyester composite fiber woven / knitted fabric which solves the above-mentioned problems, has a good feel, is excellent in wearing feeling, and is easy to handle. Aim.

[0006]

According to the constitution of the present invention, a composite fiber woven / knitted fabric having an excellent texture has a polyester fiber of 85 to 10% by weight of 3.0 denier or less, a denier of 2.0 denier or less and a toughness of 30 or less. Regenerated cellulose short fiber 15-90
A first gist of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric consisting of wt%, wherein the regenerated cellulose short fibers on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric are fibrillated. Twist containing 85 to 10% by weight of a polyester fiber of 3.0 denier or less and 15 to 90% by weight of a regenerated cellulose short fiber of 2.0 denier or less having a difference in boiling water shrinkage ratio of 3% or more with the polyester fiber. After weaving and knitting a mixed yarn having a coefficient of 2 to 8, a conjugate fiber excellent in texture to give a fibril of a regenerated cellulose short fiber having a toughness of 30 or less on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric by subjecting the fabric to a relaxation treatment, a burning treatment, and an alkali treatment. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric is the second aspect of the present invention.

[0007]

The present inventors have carried out various studies to improve the feel of the regenerated cellulose / polyester composite woven or knitted fabric, and have found that the regenerated cellulose / polyester fiber is mixed with the mixed yarn obtained by spinning or blending. The shrinkage treatment is carried out so that the regenerated cellulose has a sheath-polyester core-sheath structure utilizing the difference between the two, and a large number of fine fibrils are generated on the regenerated cellulose surface to produce a woven or knitted fabric having an excellent texture. Succeeded. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

First, the polyester fiber used in the present invention has a denier of 3.0 or less by alkali treatment.
As long as the weight is reduced by 30%, either short fibers or long fibers can be used, and the composition of the polyester is not particularly limited. More preferred are polyester fibers which are reduced to 5 to 25% by alkali treatment at 2.0 denier or less. Further, the boiling water shrinkage ratio is preferably 5% or more. Further, it is preferable to select a polyester fiber having a boiling water shrinkage (SHW) higher than the regenerated cellulose fiber by 3% or more, more preferably 6% or more. This is because, when a mixed yarn of regenerated cellulose and polyester is subjected to a relaxation treatment and an alkali treatment described below, the polyester is reduced and shrunk so that the polyester is shifted to the center of the mixed yarn, and the periphery of the polyester is surrounded by regenerated cellulose. This is because a mixed yarn having a unique texture can be obtained.

As the regenerated cellulose fiber, one having 2.0 denier or less, more preferably 1.5 denier or less, and still more preferably 1.2 denier or less is used.
It is not preferable to use a regenerated cellulose fiber having a thickness of more than 2.0 denier because it is difficult to fibrillate and a woven or knitted fabric having a soft and good texture cannot be obtained. Further, as the regenerated cellulose fiber, one having SHW smaller than the above polyester fiber by 3% or more, more preferably 6% or more is used.

As the regenerated cellulose fiber, rayon,
Known materials such as polynosic and cupra can be used, but cotton and hemp are not preferred because the fibers are short and thick and are difficult to fibrillate, and especially cotton is lacking in drape property. The degree of polymerization of the regenerated cellulose fiber is 300 or more, preferably 4
00 or more is preferred. If the degree of polymerization is less than 300, it is unfavorable because it deteriorates during the alkali treatment and becomes powdery without generating fibrils. Further, the toughness of the regenerated cellulose fiber (tensile strength in wet state WS × elongation WE: according to JIS L1015 method) is 3
A value of 0 or less is preferable in that fibrillation easily occurs. More preferred toughness is 25-5.

[0011] Regenerated cellulose fibers can be used as long fibers, but short fibers are preferred. This is because the regenerated cellulose is the sheath component of the mixed yarn and determines the feel of the woven or knitted fabric, but the short fiber has a greater effect of increasing the warm feeling due to the fluff, and a woven or knitted fabric having a softer touch is obtained. by.

The polyester fiber and the regenerated cellulose fiber are mixed into a mixed yarn by blending or blending. At this time, the polyester fiber content is 85 to 10% by weight, and the regenerated cellulose fiber is 15 to 90% by weight. 15 regenerated cellulose fibers
If the amount is less than 90% by weight, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric will not be improved even if it is fibrillated, and if it is more than 90% by weight, the strength of the entire woven or knitted fabric will be reduced or the washing resistance will be deteriorated.

As a method for producing a mixed yarn, a conventionally known method can be used, and there is a method in which polyester long fibers and regenerated cellulose short fibers are mixed, or a mixture of both short fibers is used. The mixed yarn is twisted so that the twist coefficient becomes 2 to 8. By untwisting the twist in a later relaxing process, the elastic recovery rate of the mixed yarn can be increased, and the drapability of the woven or knitted fabric can be drastically increased. A more preferred twist factor is 2.5 to 4.5. It is also effective to untwist using a twin yarn. The count of the mixed yarn is not particularly limited, and is generally 20 to 80 count.

Weaving and knitting are performed using the mixed yarn. As the combination of the warp and the weft at this time, a mixed yarn in which the mixing ratio of the regenerated cellulose and the polyester fiber is the same, or a combination of different ratios may be used. As the warp (or weft) yarn, a polyester fiber alone (spun yarn or filament yarn) may be used, but in this case, it is necessary to use the above-mentioned mixed yarn for the weft (or warp). In order to obtain fibrils of regenerated cellulose fibers on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric and obtain a woven or woven knitted fabric having an excellent texture, the content of the regenerated cellulose fibers in the woven or knitted fabric is adjusted to be 15 to 85% by weight or more. Is preferred.

The obtained woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a relaxation treatment for untwisting. The conditions of the relaxation treatment are not particularly limited as long as the twist of the yarn in the woven or knitted material can be untwisted, and known methods and devices can be applied.In general, using a liquid-flow type dyeing machine, The treatment is performed in normal pressure to high pressure and high temperature water at 100 to 135 ° C for 5 to 60 minutes.

The alkali treatment is performed during or after the relaxation treatment. Since the polyester fiber portion in the woven or knitted fabric is reduced in weight by 3 to 30% by weight and contracted by the alkali treatment, the polyester is shifted to the center of the mixed yarn, and the polyester (core) is surrounded by regenerated cellulose (sheath). A core-sheath type mixed yarn having a structure is obtained.
The alkali treatment can be performed using a conventionally known method. The treatment conditions are appropriately controlled so that the weight loss of the polyester due to the alkali is 3 to 30% by weight, more preferably 5 to 25% by weight, as described above.

During the alkali treatment, the regenerated cellulose fibers are also affected by the alkali and have a toughness of 30%.
Because of the decrease below, many fine fibrils can be generated on the surface of the cellulose fiber. When fibrillation occurs, the ultrafine cellulose fibers cover the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, so that the texture is soft and the appearance is as high as a light brushed silk like a washer-processed silk. In addition, the touch is warm because of the point contact. From the viewpoint of texture, at least 20% or more of the yarn bundle on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is preferably fibrillated. It is more preferably at least 40%.
Therefore, as the alkali treatment conditions, it is preferable to set a condition that satisfies the weight loss rate of the polyester and that the fibrillation of the regenerated cellulose fiber is 20% or more of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric according to the characteristics of each fiber.

[0018]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following Examples, which do not limit the present invention.
Modifications and alterations that do not depart from the spirit described below are all included in the technical scope of the present invention.

The measuring method or evaluation method used in the examples is as follows. Softness: Transactions of the Textile Machine Society of Japan, Vol.24, No.4 (1971)
The measurement was based on "Study on texture: (Part 2) Texture measurement method". Elasticity: Same as above Contact feeling: Judgment by handling by a skilled technician ◎: Specially good ○: Good △: Normal ×: Poor ××: Specially poor Washer silk: Visual judgment by a skilled technician ○: Good △: Slight Good ×: Inferior (no effect is seen)

Example 1 Rayon fiber having a degree of polymerization of 460 to 510 and 1.0 denier was cut into 38 mm. The 50 denier-24 filament polyester was electrospread and mixed to give 40% by weight of polyester and 60% by weight of rayon to prepare a 40th yarn with a twist coefficient of 3.0. The polyester fiber had a 7-8% larger SHW than the rayon fiber. Using the mixed yarn, a plain fabric having a warp of 110 yarns / inch and a weft of 70 yarns / inch was prepared, subjected to a free relaxation treatment in high-pressure hot water at 120 ° C, and untwisted. Next, the plain fabric was dried, subjected to heat setting and hair baking treatment, and thereafter, as an alkali treatment, the polyester was reduced by 10% by weight in a sodium hydroxide (4.1 g / liter) aqueous solution using a liquid flow type treatment machine. At this time, the toughness of the rayon fiber was 16, and fibrils appeared. After high-pressure jet dyeing of the polyester fiber portion of the woven fabric, the rayon portion was dyed with a reactive dye, followed by finishing. The fibrillation rate was 87% of the woven fabric surface.

As Comparative Example 1, a commercially available woven fabric (30% by weight of polyester, 70% by weight of rayon, 40th count, warp 1
10 / inch, 85 wefts / inch), together with the woven fabric obtained in Example 1, together with softness and elasticity, tactile sensation,
The appearance was evaluated and the results are shown in Table 1.

Example 2 Degree of polymerization: 460-510, 1.0 denier rayon fiber and 1.5 denier polyester were cut into 38 mm, and 34% by weight of polyester and 66% by weight of rayon
And a 60th yarn with a twist coefficient of 3.5 was prepared. A 100-denier-72 filament polyester fiber was used as the warp yarn, and the mixed yarn was used as the weft yarn to produce a plain weave of 155 warp yarns / inch and 86 weft yarns / inch. The warp had a SHW of 8-9% greater than the weft. In the obtained plain fabric, the polyester was 62
% By weight and 38% by weight of rayon. 90
Perform pre-relaxation in hot water at
Was subjected to free-relaxation treatment in high-pressure hot water to prevent relaxation wrinkles and untwist. Next, the plain fabric was dried, heat-set and scalp-treated, and then the polyester was reduced by 20% in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide (14.7 g / liter) using a liquid-flow-type processor as an alkali treatment. At this time, the toughness of the rayon fiber was 8, and fibrils appeared. After high-pressure jet dyeing of the polyester fiber portion of the woven fabric, the rayon portion was dyed with a reactive dye, followed by finishing. The fibrillation rate was 41%.

As Comparative Example 2, a commercially available woven fabric (65% polyester, 35% rayon, 60S count, 158 warp / inch, 84 weft / inch) was used together with the woven fabric obtained in Example 2 to soften it. The resilience, touch, and appearance were evaluated and are shown in Table 1.

Example 3 A rayon fiber having a degree of polymerization of 340 to 410 and 1.5 denier was cut into 38 mm. The 50 denier-36 filament polyester is electrospread and the polyester 35
The fiber was blended so that the weight% and the rayon amounted to 65% by weight to prepare a 40th-count mixed yarn with a twist coefficient of 3.2. This polyester fiber had a SHW 16% larger than the rayon fiber. Using the mixed yarn, 100 warps / inch,
A plain weave having 87 wefts / inch was prepared, subjected to a free relaxation treatment in high-pressure hot water at 110 ° C., and untwisted.
Next, the plain fabric was dried, heat-set and scalp-treated, and then the polyester was reduced by 7% by weight in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide (2.8 g / liter) using a liquid flow type processor as an alkali treatment. At this time, the toughness of the rayon fiber was 20, and fibrils appeared. After high-pressure jet dyeing of the polyester fiber portion of the woven fabric, the rayon portion was dyed with a reactive dye, followed by finishing. The fibrillation rate was 45% of the woven fabric surface. The softness, resilience, touch and appearance of the obtained woven fabric were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0025]

[Table 1]

Each of the woven and knitted fabrics of the present invention has a lower flexural rigidity than that of the comparative example and a high elasticity. That is, it turns out that it is soft and excellent in drape property. The contact feeling of the woven or knitted fabric of the example was warm, and the appearance was washer silk-like.

[0027]

As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide an elegant woven or knitted fabric which is soft and resilient and has a warm feeling and a washer silk appearance.

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] An 85% to 10% by weight polyester fiber having a denier of 3.0 or less and a toughness of 3 having a denier of 2.0 or less.
A woven or knitted fabric comprising 15 to 90% by weight of regenerated cellulose short fibers of 0 or less , wherein the regenerated cellulose is provided on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
Scan composite fiber textile fabric which short fibers are excellent in texture, characterized in Tei Rukoto fibrillated. 2. A regenerated cellulose short fiber having a denier of 2.0 or less and having a difference of 85% to 10% by weight of a polyester fiber having a density of 3.0 denier or less and a shrinkage ratio of boiling water with the polyester fiber of 3% or more having a weight of 15 to 90% by weight. after the twist coefficient including the was weaving knitting a mixed yarn of 2-8, relaxation treatment, your singeing processing
And alkali treatment to give a toughness 30
A method for producing a woven / knitted conjugate fiber having excellent texture, characterized by expressing fibrils of the following regenerated cellulose short fibers.