JP2002138341A - Method for producing long short composite woven fabric containing animal hair fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for easily obtaining a long short composite woven fabric containing animal hair fibers excellent in voluminous touch. SOLUTION: This method for producing the long short composite woven fabric containing the animal hair fibers is, characterized by applying a hot water treatment process for treating with hot water having a temperature above the boiling point to a woven fabric produced by weaving long short composite spun yarns containing highly shrinkable polyester filaments having a boiling water shrinkage percent of >=20% as long fibers and containing the animal hair fibers, such as wool fibers, as the short fibers in a blending ratio of >=50%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a long and short composite fabric containing animal hair fibers having a voluminous feel.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a fabric using animal hair fiber such as wool fiber has been processed to give the fabric a voluminous feeling by utilizing the curlability due to the structural characteristics of animal hair fiber. 2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics having a more voluminous feel have been made by devising a fabric structure, raising the surface, and the like. However, if you try to get a sense of volume by devising the fabric structure,
As a result, the density is increased, and the weight per unit area is increased, which leads to an increase in cost. Also in a method of expressing a sense of volume by processing steps such as shrinking and raising, the density increases, the weight per unit area increases, and this leads to an increase in cost.

On the other hand, in order to improve dimensional stability and physical properties such as strength in a woven fabric using animal hair fibers, synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers are mixed at a ratio that does not impair the texture of the woven fabric. That is being done. When synthetic fibers are mixed, when short fibers such as polyester fibers are blended, the synthetic fibers do not have a fragile property and cannot exert a sufficient volume feeling, or the raised properties are different due to the different raised properties. There are problems such as occurrence of cracks and deterioration of physical properties such as pilling. It is conceivable to use all or a part of the short fibers as fibers having high shrinkage performance.However, in the case of short fibers, there are many fibers existing around the yarn as fluff, and the shrinkage characteristics are reduced. The situation cannot be fully demonstrated.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above situation, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method for easily obtaining a long and short composite fabric containing animal hair fibers having an excellent volume feeling. It is assumed that.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems, and comprises a high-shrink polyester long fiber yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more as a long fiber yarn. A finishing process including a hot water treatment step of treating the woven fabric using long and short composite spun yarn containing animal hair fiber having a blending ratio of 50% or more with hot water at a temperature equal to or higher than boiling water. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a long and short composite fabric containing animal hair fibers.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the present invention, a long and short composite spun yarn containing a high shrinkage polyester long fiber yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more as a long fiber yarn and an animal hair fiber having a blending ratio of 50% or more as a short fiber is used. Weave the fabric. The long fiber yarn constituting the long and short composite spun yarn used in the present invention is a high shrinkage polyester long fiber yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more. If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 20%, the shrinkage is not sufficient in the hot water treatment step in the subsequent step, and a woven fabric having the desired volume feeling cannot be obtained. In addition, even if the boiling water shrinkage rate is large, the shrinkage characteristics may not be exhibited due to the resistance of the spun yarn twist or the structure of the woven fabric in the hot water treatment step in the subsequent step, so the heat shrinkage stress is also large. Preferably, the maximum heat shrinkage stress value is 0.4 g /
It is preferably at least dtex. The maximum heat shrinkage stress value refers to the maximum value of the heat shrinkage stress measured using a heat shrinkage stress measuring device while increasing the temperature at a rate of 1 ° C./min. It is preferable that the temperature showing the maximum heat shrinkage stress value is 100 ° C. or more and 150 ° C. or less. Such a high-shrink polyester long fiber yarn can be obtained by a usual melt spinning method of polyester obtained by copolymerizing ethylene terephthalate unit with isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid and the like.

[0007] The blend ratio of the high-shrink polyester long fiber yarn constituting the long and short composite spun yarn is preferably 10 to 40%. If the blend ratio of the high-shrink polyester long fiber yarn is less than 10%, the shrinkage force cannot be sufficiently exerted, and the desired volume feeling may not be obtained. Also,
If it exceeds 40%, even if a shrinkage treatment is performed in a subsequent step, the animal hair fibers cannot sufficiently cover the high-shrinkage polyester long fiber yarn, and the texture may be impaired.

[0008] The short fibers constituting the long and short composite spun yarns are mainly animal hair fibers and contain animal hair fibers having a blend ratio of 50% or more with respect to all the spun yarns. Of course, all of the short fibers constituting the long and short composite spun yarn may be animal hair fibers. In order to obtain a woven fabric having an excellent texture of animal hair fibers, the blend ratio of the animal hair fibers is set to 50% or more. The animal hair fibers in the present invention include hairs of sheep, cashmere, goats, camels, rabbits and the like, and one or more of them may be used. When other fibers are used as the short fibers, examples of the fibers include synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, and vinylon; regenerated fibers such as rayon and acetate; and natural fibers such as cotton and hemp. The type of the fiber to be blended may be only one type, but two or more types of fibers may be mixed. Among these, preferred fibers include cationic dye dyeable polyester fibers.

[0009] The long and short composite spun yarn used in the present invention is:
For example, it can be obtained by the method shown in FIG. FIG.
1 is a schematic view of a spindle type spinning machine showing an example of a case where a long fiber yarn and a short fiber are combined in a spinning step in a spinning step. In FIG. 1, roving A composed of a group of short fibers produced in a normal process is supplied from a back roll 1,
Draft is completed by the front roll 3 through a normal draft zone. On the other hand, the long fiber yarn B is supplied from the supply bobbin, is supplied to the front roll 3 via the tensor 5, merges with the fleece made of short fibers at the front roll 3, exits from the front roll 3, and exits from the traveler 9. A composite yarn is formed by twisting by rotation, and is wound on a bobbin 8 as a long and short composite yarn 10. When the short fibers and the long fiber yarns are merged by the front roll 3 and are compounded by twisting, it is preferable that the short fibers and the long fiber yarns be adjusted so as to wrap the long fiber yarns and then combined.

In the present invention, a woven fabric is woven using the above spun yarn. In the design of a woven fabric, the spun yarn has a high shrinkage property, and the width and length of the woven fabric are set to be larger than usual in order to obtain a raised surface by the shrinkage effect. The structure of the woven fabric is not particularly limited. The effects of the present invention can be sufficiently exhibited in a woven fabric having a flat structure or a twill structure.

In the finishing step of the woven fabric according to the present invention, a hot water treatment step of treating the fabric with hot water having a temperature equal to or higher than boiling water is always performed. The treatment equipment desirably has as little tension as possible on the woven fabric during the treatment, and examples thereof include a liquid jet dyeing machine, an air jet dyeing machine, a wins and a paddle dyeing machine. The treatment is carried out at a temperature equal to or higher than boiling water, but preferably at 110 ° C. or lower in order to prevent a reduction in the strength of animal hair fibers. When dyeing, this hot water treatment step may be performed simultaneously with the dyeing step. In this step, the shrinking performance of the high-shrink polyester long fiber yarn is sufficiently exhibited, and the woven fabric is given a sense of volume. At this time, a grain may be generated depending on the fabric structure due to a large shrinkage of the fabric. In this case, the width is set so that the grain is not noticeable. If the width is increased too much, the sense of volume produced by the hot water treatment will be lost. The other finishing steps may be performed in the same manner as for a normal polyester / wool blend fabric.

[0012]

In the present invention, since high shrinkage polyester filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more is used as the high shrinkage fiber, high shrinkage characteristics are exhibited in the hot water treatment step, and The thread enters the interior of the fabric,
On the surface of the woven fabric, animal hair fibers or short fibers mainly composed of animal hair fibers come out, so that an excellent texture of the animal hair fibers can be provided and a voluminous feeling can be developed.

[0013]

Next, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples. The evaluation of the woven fabric in the present invention was performed as follows. (1) Fabric density It was measured according to JIS L 1096. (2) Weight per unit area Measured according to JIS L 1096. (3) Thickness It was measured according to JIS L 1096. (4) Pilling Measured according to the method A of JIS L-1076. (5) Feeling The feeling of volume, touch, tension, waist, etc. were comprehensively evaluated by a handling test. ：: Very good, ：: Good, Δ: Normal, ×: Poor, graded.

Example 1 As a long fiber yarn, the boiling water shrinkage obtained by melt-spinning a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 12% by mole of isophthalic acid was 30.
%, A high shrinkage polyester filament fiber yarn of 50 dtex / 12 filaments having a maximum dry heat shrinkage stress value of 0.45 g / dtex was used. As short fibers, 2.5% sulfoisophthalic acid was added to wool fiber and polyethylene terephthalate.
A wool fiber and a cationic dye-dyeable polyester short fiber made of a polyester dyed by mol% and having a boiling water shrinkage of 2%, a fineness of 2.2 dtex and a fiber length of 64 mm are used. The roving obtained at a ratio of 65:35 is supplied from the back roll of a 3-inch ring spinning machine schematically shown in FIG. 1, and the high-shrink polyester filament fiber supplied from another creel by the front roll after drafting. The yarn is overlapped with the yarn and compounded by twisting by rotation of the traveler to form a worsted wool yarn with a twist number of Z580 turns / m 30 long / short composite spun yarn (blend ratio: high shrinkage polyester long fiber yarn 15%, wool fiber 55 %, Cationic dye-dyeable polyester short fiber 30%). The obtained long and short composite spun yarns were used as warp yarns, and a woven fabric having a warp density of 68 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 61 yarns / inch and a flat width of 190 cm was woven. After passing the obtained greige fabric through the process of shaving-washing, it is subjected to hot water treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes using a liquid jet dyeing machine, dehydrated and dried, and then has a width of 153 cm.
And set at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds.
Then again with a liquid dyeing machine acid dye, cationic dye,
Dyeing with disperse dye, hot water washing-water washing-dehydration-drying-
Through the finishing process of the sintering and steaming, a long and short composite fabric containing the animal hair fiber according to the present invention having a finished warp density of 86 yarns / inch, a finished weft density of 71 yarns / inch, and a width of 150 cm was obtained.

Comparative Example 1 A 50 dtex / 12 filament ordinary polyester long fiber yarn (boiling water shrinkage 7%) made of polyethylene terephthalate was used as the long fiber yarn, and the same fiber as in Example 1 was used as the short fiber. In the same manner as in Example 1, a worsted wool yarn with a twist number of Z580 turns / m and a long and short composite spun yarn having a yarn count of 30 (blend ratio: high shrinkage polyester long fiber yarn 15%, wool fiber 55%, cationic dye dyeable type) (Polyester short fiber 30%) was obtained. Using the obtained long and short composite spun yarns as warp yarns, a woven fabric having a warp density of 79 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 68 yarns / inch and a weave width of 161 cm and a flat double structure was woven. The obtained greige was processed through the same processing steps as in Example 1 to a finished warp density of 85 yarns / inch, a finished weft density of 72 yarns / inch, and a width of 150 yarns.
cm of Comparative Example 1 was obtained.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2 A double-woven fabric having a warp density of 76 yarns / inch, a weft yarn density of 67 yarns / inch, and a weave width of 174 cm, using a worsted wool number 60 yarn of 100% wool fiber as a weft yarn. Weaved. The obtained greige is fur-baked-boiled-washed-curved-stained (acid dye)
-Drying-After the finishing process of steaming, the finished warp density is 88
Thus, a woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 having a density of 73 yarns / inch, a finished weft density of 73 yarns / inch, and a width of 150 cm was obtained.

Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabrics of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2.

[0018]

As is clear from Table 1, the fabric of Example 1 according to the present invention has the same basis weight as Comparative Example 1 using a long and short composite spun yarn made of ordinary polyester long fiber yarn. The thickness is large, the volume is excellent, and it is understood that the weight per unit area is small and the weight is reduced, as compared with Comparative Example 2 consisting only of wool fibers designed to have the same level of thickness. . The woven fabric of Example 1 has a feeling of wool fiber, has a swelling feeling and a moderate repulsion feeling, and has a firm and firm feeling, and has a very good texture. Comparative Example 2 in terms of waist
Was better.

[0020]

The woven fabric according to the present invention is a woven fabric having a voluminous feel but lightness, swelling, resilience, tension and waist, and is suitable for men's and women's heavy clothing, especially for warmth. It is a woven fabric suitable for autumn and winter items.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a ring spinning machine for producing long and short composite yarns used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 Reference Signs List A roving yarn B long fiber yarn 1 back roll 2 second roll 3 front roll 4 guide 5 tensor 6 guide 7 snail wire 8 spinning bobbin 9 traveler 10 long and short composite yarn

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A long and short composite spun yarn containing a high shrinkage polyester long fiber yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more as a long fiber yarn and an animal hair fiber having a blending ratio of 50% or more as a short fiber. A method for producing a long-short composite woven fabric containing animal hair fibers, wherein the woven fabric is subjected to a finishing process including a hot water treatment step of treating the woven fabric with hot water having a temperature equal to or higher than boiling water.