JP3837827B2 - Core-sheath type composite spun yarn and fabric - Google Patents

Description

【００５６】
【発明の効果】
本発明の芯鞘型複合紡績糸は、紡績糸の状態から鞘部に天然繊維または再生繊維を、芯部に高収縮ポリエステル短繊維を配置したものであり、さらにこれを布帛とし、布帛の状態で芯部のポリエステル短繊維を収縮させることによって、天然繊維または再生繊維を完璧に布帛表面に浮き出させ、鞘成分の天然繊維および再生繊維の特徴である表面風合い、光沢と、芯成分のポリエステル繊維の布帛強力、耐摩耗性を兼ね備えた良好な製品を得ることができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】 本発明の芯鞘型複合紡績糸の一例を示す横断面図である。
【図２】本発明の芯鞘型複合紡績糸を製造するために好ましく用いることのできるリング精紡機の概略構成図である。
【図３】 図２の要部拡大図である。
【符号の説明】
Ａ：ポリエステル短繊維束
Ｂ：天然または再生繊維束
１，２：トランペット
３：バックローラ
４：エプロン
５ａ，５ｂ：テーパーフロントローラ
６：リング
７：トラベラー
８：ボビン[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a core-sheath type composite spun yarn and a fabric composed of the spun yarn. More specifically, the present invention relates to a core-sheath type composite spun yarn in which the sheath portion is made of natural fiber or recycled fiber and the core portion is made of polyester short fiber, and a fabric composed of the spun yarn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Traditionally, natural fibers such as wool, cotton, hemp, and silk, and recycled fibers such as polynosic rayon have been widely used for clothing because of their excellent heat retention, moisture absorption and release, texture, and gloss. I came. In recent years, blended yarns of these natural fibers or recycled fibers and polyester short fibers excellent in fabric strength, abrasion resistance, wrinkle resistance and washability are often used for clothing. However, when such a blended yarn is used, performances such as fabric strength, abrasion resistance and wrinkle resistance are improved, but only inferior to natural fibers and regenerated fibers in terms of texture and gloss.
[0003]
In order to solve these disadvantages, a core-sheath type composite spun yarn has been proposed in which the sheath portion is made of a fiber bundle containing natural fibers and the core portion is made of a synthetic fiber bundle, thereby increasing the ratio of natural fibers on the yarn surface. However, since this composite spun yarn has two layers in the drawing and roving processes, the core-sheath structure breaks down in the spinning process, and the sheath part has a natural fiber ratio sufficient to exhibit the advantages of natural fibers. That was difficult to manufacture.
[0004]
Therefore, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 58-144141 discloses that a short fiber bundle a in which 70% or more of the outer surface is made of animal hair and a short fiber bundle b made of a synthetic fiber are combined in parallel to occupy the short surface on the spun yarn surface. A two-layer spun yarn has been proposed in which the proportion of animal hair on the spun yarn surface is increased by defining the proportion of the fiber bundle a. According to this invention, the proportion of animal hair on the surface of the spun yarn can be made higher than that of the conventional core-sheath spun yarn.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, such a two-layer structure spun yarn has disadvantages such as a large variation in the coverage ratio due to the sheath component in the spun yarn and flickering on the fabric surface. Also, during manufacturing, the core and sheath component sliver is supplied in parallel from the back roller in the roving process, and the two-layer structure collapses due to further roller drafting by the subsequent spinning machine, maintaining the original performance. There were also problems such as being difficult to do.
[0006]
The present invention is a core-sheath type composite spun yarn which is improved in the drawbacks of the prior art and is double-layered in the spinning process, and is subjected to shrinkage treatment as a fabric so that the surface texture of natural fibers or regenerated fibers can be improved. It is an object of the present invention to provide a core-sheath type composite spun yarn capable of obtaining a fabric with good surface quality that combines the strength and wear resistance of polyester short fibers, and a fabric using the same.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention has the following configuration in order to achieve this object. That is, in the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage is 20% or less, the 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment is 12-40%, the 180 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment is 15-45%, and the rate of change over time is A core-sheath type composite spun yarn comprising a core part made of polyester short fibers of 15% or less and a sheath part made of natural fiber or recycled fiber.
[0008]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In the core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention, natural fibers or regenerated fibers are arranged in the sheath part and high-shrinkage polyester short fibers are arranged in the core part, and this is used as a fabric, and then the high-shrinkage polyester short fibers in the core part are shrunk. By doing so, natural fibers or regenerated fibers can be uniformly raised on the fabric surface. For this reason, even if the ratio of the natural fiber or regenerated fiber of the sheath component is a low ratio that can be produced by the conventional method, it has a natural fiber or regenerated fiber-like texture and is stronger than the polyester short fiber of the core. Further, a fabric having both can be provided.
[0009]
Therefore, in the present invention, it is important for the polyester short fibers constituting the core portion that the shrinkage characteristics of the raw cotton are within a specific range, and the boiling water shrinkage rate is required to be 20% or less. If the boiling water shrinkage rate exceeds 20%, shrinkage will occur at the time of twisted set of spun yarns and warp drying of the warp yarns, resulting in poor process stability. Moreover, the problem that the dry heat shrinkage rate after a boiling water process cannot be enlarged arises. The boiling water shrinkage is preferably 17% or less, and more preferably 15% or less. The lower limit value of the boiling water shrinkage is not particularly defined, but is preferably 5% or more in order to improve the process passability.
[0010]
In the present invention, the dry heat shrinkage rate of the polyester short fiber after the boiling water treatment is an extremely important factor. That is, when the polyester short fiber contracts greatly during bulk-up in the dyeing process, it is possible to make the natural fiber or the regenerated fiber rise to the fabric surface. In this sense, the 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment needs to be 12 to 40%, and the 180 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment needs to be 15 to 45%.
[0011]
When each dry heat shrinkage rate after the boiling water treatment is lower than the above range, the natural fiber or the regenerated fiber cannot be sufficiently raised on the fabric surface due to the shrinkage difference.
[0012]
Conversely, when each dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment is higher than the above range, there are problems such as severe design of fabric density and processing conditions. In the present invention, the 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment is preferably 16-30%, and the 180 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment is preferably 18-35%.
[0013]
Furthermore, in the present invention, the polyester staple fiber needs to have a rate of change with time of 15% or less. Generally, the higher the shrinkage rate, the smaller the restraining force, and the higher the standing temperature, the greater the rate of change of the shrinkage rate with time, and the shrinkage difference changes with time. As described above, when the rate of change with time is large, it is difficult to maintain a constant shrinkage difference. As a result, the ratio of the sheath component covering the core component due to the shrinkage, that is, the core cover ratio is also nonuniform. Accordingly, the smaller the change with time, the better. However, as a result of intensive studies, it has been found that the core cover ratio of the resulting fabric can be maintained for a long time by setting the change rate with time to 15% or less.
[0014]
The rate of change with time (%) is a value obtained by the following equation.
[0015]
{(Initial boiling water shrinkage-boiling water shrinkage after time) / initial boiling water shrinkage} × 100
Here, the boiling water shrinkage after time means the boiling water shrinkage when left in an atmosphere of 40 ° C. for 10 days in an unrestrained force state.
[0016]
In order to reduce the rate of change with time, it is preferable to make the internal structure of the fiber dense while maintaining high shrinkage, and the degree of crystallinity by the density method representing the denseness of the internal structure is 15% or more. preferable. When the degree of crystallinity is less than 15%, the rate of change with time is large, and it tends to be difficult to make the core cover rate uniform. A more preferable crystallinity is 18% or more. On the other hand, when the degree of crystallinity is too high, the shrinkage rate decreases, and therefore the degree of crystallinity is preferably 30% or less.
[0017]
Further, the birefringence Δn by the compensator method indicating the degree of orientation of molecules as a factor determining the internal structure is preferably in the range of 110 × 10 ^{−3 to} 145 × 10 ⁻³ from the viewpoint of shrinkage characteristics and rate of change with time. . If the birefringence Δn is lower than 110 × 10 ⁻³ , the degree of orientation of the amorphous part can be maintained, but the degree of change with time tends to increase because the degree of crystallinity decreases.
[0018]
The polyester short fiber used in the present invention contains isophthalic acid and 2 · 2 bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane as a copolymerization component, and contains an amount satisfying the following formulas I, II and III simultaneously. It is preferable that it consists of copolyester.
[0019]
P (a) + 1.5 × P (b) ≧ 8.5... I
P (a) + P (b) ≦ 18.0 ... II
1.0 ≦ P (b) ≦ 5.5 III
(However, in the above formula, P (a) is the mole fraction (%) of isophthalic acid with respect to all acid components in the copolymer polyester, and P (b) is 2 · 2 bis {with respect to all glycol components in the copolymer polyester { 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane molar fraction (%))
In the present invention, the polyester staple fiber is composed of a copolymerized polyester containing only one of isophthalic acid and 2,2bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane as a copolymerization component. High shrinkable polyester staple fibers suitable for high-quality woven and knitted fabrics, not only because of their fastness to light and the core cover, but also because they tend to exhibit the shrinkage characteristics required for polyester staple fibers It tends to be hard to fall. Further, in the case of a combination of one of isophthalic acid or 2-2bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane and the other copolymer component, the shrinkage characteristics and light fastness of the polyester short fiber defined in the present invention There is a tendency that it is difficult to satisfy at the same time.
[0020]
Furthermore, the polyester short fiber constituting the core part is not sufficient to have a high shrinkage rate in order to exhibit excellent core part covering properties in the knitted fabric with the 100% spun yarn or other fibers. It is preferable that the force of contraction over the binding force of the knitted fabric, that is, the contraction stress is high.
[0021]
For this reason, it is preferable that the shrinkage stress of the polyester short fiber which comprises a core part is 150 mg / d or more, More preferably, it is 250 mg / d or more. When the shrinkage stress is less than 150 mg / d, it becomes difficult to express sufficient shrinkage in the knitted fabric under the restraining force.
[0022]
The single fiber fineness, the cross-sectional shape, the material, and the fiber length of the polyester short fiber in the core are not particularly limited as long as they match the natural fiber or regenerated fiber in the sheath in terms of spinnability and quality.
[0023]
In the present invention, the natural fibers constituting the sheath include wool, cotton, silk, hemp, and the like, and the regenerated fibers include polynosic rayon. However, those that can be spun by a normal ring spinning machine. For example, there is no particular limitation.
[0024]
The natural fiber that constitutes the sheath is wool for heat retention, cotton is hygroscopic, silk is glossy, and hemp is moisture absorption / release. In addition, if the regenerated fiber is polynosic rayon, a particularly excellent fabric can be obtained in terms of texture.
[0025]
The count and twist of the core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention are not particularly limited, but the count is designed so that the number of constituent fibers of the core and sheath components in the spun yarn cross section is 40 or more. The number is preferably set slightly higher than that of general spun yarn in terms of operability and yarn quality in the spinning process. In particular, K ≧ 110 at T = K × N ^1/2 is more preferable from the viewpoint of preventing yarn breakage. (However, T: Twist number, K: Twist coefficient, N: Metric number)
Moreover, the composite ratio of the core part and the sheath part of the core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but 40:60 to 50:50 is the point of core part cover property and fine spinning operation property. preferable.
[0026]
Next, the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of an example of a core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention, which is composed of a polyester short fiber bundle A forming a core part and a natural fiber or a regenerated fiber bundle B forming a sheath part. .
[0027]
The fabric formed by the core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention causes the natural fibers or the regenerated fibers constituting the sheath to be uniformly raised on the fabric surface by shrinking the polyester short fibers in the core in the state of the fabric. It has an excellent surface quality with a surface texture of natural fibers or regenerated fibers, and combines the strength and wear resistance of polyester short fibers.
[0028]
At this time, the core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention may be used for both the warp yarn and the weft yarn of the woven fabric, or may be used for either one of them and interwoven with other spun yarns or filaments. The core-sheath type composite spun yarn may be 100%, or may be knitted with other materials. In addition, a structure | tissue, a density, etc. are not specifically limited.
[0029]
Next, the preferable manufacturing method of the core-sheath type composite spun yarn of this invention is demonstrated using figures. FIG. 2 is a schematic configuration diagram of a ring spinning machine preferably used for manufacturing the core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 3 is an enlarged view of a main part of FIG.
[0030]
A short fiber bundle A made of polyester short fibers and a short fiber bundle B made of natural fibers or regenerated fibers are prepared in advance. Next, the short fiber bundle A forming the core part and the short fiber bundle B forming the sheath part are supplied to the back roller 3 through the trumpet 1 and 2 and drafted by the apron 4 by the ring spinning machine shown in FIG. After that, it is gripped by the pair of tapered front rollers 5a and 5b.
[0031]
FIG. 3 is an enlarged view of the pair of tapered front rollers 5a and 5b. The short fiber bundle B is supplied to the side with the higher delivery amount (the side with the larger diameter) via the trumpet 2, and the delivery amount is low. The short fiber bundle A is supplied to the side (side having a small diameter) via the trumpet 1. Next, the short fiber bundles A and B that come out while being held by the taper front rollers 5a and 5b are combined, and the short fiber bundle B is wound around the short fiber bundle A sequentially by the ring 6 and the traveler 7, and the actual twist Is applied to form a core-sheath type composite spun yarn and is wound around the bobbin 8.
[0032]
The obtained core-sheath type composite spun yarn is woven or knitted by a normal method to form a fabric, and then subjected to a shrinking treatment, whereby the polyester staple fibers in the core portion are shrunk, so that the natural fibers and regenerated fibers in the sheath portion are shrunk. The surface of the fabric can be uniformly raised.
[0033]
The shrinking treatment may be performed simultaneously with the dyeing or separately, but it is possible to maintain a uniform two-layer structure of the core-sheath type composite spun yarn by avoiding a rapid shrinking process at a high temperature as much as possible and gradually shrinking. Is preferable.
[0034]
According to the above-described method, since the core-sheath structure is used in the spinning process, the two-layer structure is maintained, and it is easy to make the natural fiber or the regenerated fiber stand up to the surface completely by shrinkage treatment.
[0035]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. In addition, the measurement and evaluation of each physical property in this invention shall be performed as follows.
[0036]
A. The original length (L ₀ ) is measured by applying a load of boiling water shrinkage denier of 100 mg and immersed in boiling water for 15 minutes with no load. After the boiling water treatment, the length after treatment (L ₁ ) is measured with a load of 100 mg per denier. The boiling water shrinkage is obtained by the following formula.
[0037]
Boiling water shrinkage rate = {(L ₀ −L ₁ ) / L ₀ } × 100 (%)
B. Immerse in boiling water for 15 minutes with no dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment. Remove from boiling water and air dry at room temperature for at least 24 hours. The sample is subjected to a load of 100 mg per denier and the length after treatment with boiling water (L ₂ ) is measured. It is put into an atmosphere of a specified temperature with no load, taken out after 15 minutes, and the length (L ₃ ) after the drying treatment is measured under a load of 100 mg per denier. The dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment is determined by the following formula.
[0038]
Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment = {(L ₂ −L ₃ ) / L ₂ } × 100 (%)
C. Sensory evaluation (surface texture)
Sensory evaluation of the surface texture of the material with 10 panelists.
[0039]
○ is very good, Δ is somewhat problematic, × is bad, and ○ is acceptable.
[0040]
D. Tearing strength (1) Take 5 pieces of 6.5 cm × 10 cm test pieces in the vertical and horizontal directions.
[0041]
(2) Attach the long side of the test piece to the grip of the Elmendorf Tear Strength Tester and push the blade lever to make a 2 cm cut.
[0042]
(3) Press the drop button to tear the remaining 4.5 cm of the test side cut, and read the strength (kg) at this time (to the minimum scale 1/2).
[0043]
(4) The tear strength (kg) determined above is expressed as an average of 5 times in the vertical and horizontal directions (up to one decimal place). However, the vertical tear strength refers to the case where the warp yarn is cut.
[0044]
In the fabric comprising the wool / polyester uniform blended yarn of the example,
A passing value of 4.9 kg in length and 4.3 kg in width is acceptable.
[0045]
E. Black brightness (L value)
The brightness of the black color was measured with a multi-light source spectrocolorimeter MSC-2 (manufactured by Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.). Since only wool is dye | staining black, it shows that wool has comprised the sheath component, so that the value is small.
[0046]
【Example】
Example 1
An esterification reaction is carried out using terephthalic acid / ethylene glycol and isophthalic acid / ethylene glycol slurry, and after adding an anti-coloring agent / ethylene glycol slurry, a polymerization reaction catalyst and a titanium oxide / ethylene glycol slurry (to the resulting copolymer polyester). In contrast, 0.1 wt% of titanium oxide) was added, and then 2 · 2 bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane / ethylene glycol solution was added, and polymerization was carried out by an ordinary method, as shown in Table 1. A highly shrinkable copolymer polyethylene terephthalate chip having a composition was obtained.
[0047]
After drying the obtained chip, an undrawn yarn was spun using a round cross-section die at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1300 m / min. This undrawn yarn was made into a 500,000 denier tow, drawn at a drawing temperature of 90 ° C., a draw ratio of 3.35 times, and a drawing speed of 150 m / min. After heat treatment for 4.5 seconds to impart mechanical crimping, the fiber was cut into a 3d × 89 mm variable cut raw cotton.
[0048]
The raw cotton was made into a polyester short fiber bundle A and passed through a normal long fiber spinning system with a blending rate of 100% to prepare a roving yarn having a thickness of 0.8 g / m.
[0049]
On the other hand, normal wool fibers were prepared as short fiber bundles B, and similarly, a roving yarn of 100% and a thickness of 0.8 g / m was prepared.
[0050]
The roving yarn created above is applied to the ring spinning machine of FIG. 2, and the roving yarn of the short fiber bundle A is supplied from the back roller 3 through the trumpet 1 to the low-feeding side of the tapered front rollers 5a and 5b. Further, the roving yarn of the short fiber bundle B was also supplied to the side where the taper front rollers 5a and 5b are fed in a high amount. A core-sheath type composite spun yarn of 50% polyester / 50% wool with a fine spinning total draft of 32.0 times and a count of 1/20 (meter count) and a twist coefficient of K = 120 (537 t / inch) was produced.
[0051]
After these core-sheath type composite spun yarns were twisted and set at 60 ° C. for 20 minutes, plain fabrics of warp × width density = 99 × 52 / inch were prepared, and only wool fibers were dyed in black, and 170 ° C. Finishing set was done at a degree. The surface texture by sensory evaluation of the obtained woven fabric is good, and the blackness (L value) is also low, indicating that the wool fibers are raised on the surface. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0052]
(Examples 2-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2)
Various copolymerized polyethylene terephthalates were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amounts of isophthalic acid as the acid component and 2.2 bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane as the glycol component were changed as shown in Table 1. A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0053]
Examples 2 and 3 are copolymerized polyethylene terephthalates within the scope of the present invention, have a good surface texture by sensory evaluation, and show a low blackness value (L value).
[0054]
On the other hand, since Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are copolymerized polyethylene terephthalates obtained by copolymerizing only one of isophthalic acid and glycol component 2 · 2 bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane. The surface obtained by raising the wool fiber intended for the present invention to the fabric surface because the 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after treatment is less than 12% and the 180 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment is less than 15%. A fabric with good texture could not be obtained.
[0055]
[Table 1]

[0056]
【The invention's effect】
The core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention is one in which natural fibers or regenerated fibers are arranged in the sheath portion from the spun yarn state, and high-shrinkage polyester short fibers are arranged in the core portion. By shrinking the polyester short fiber in the core, the natural fiber or regenerated fiber is completely raised on the fabric surface, and the surface texture, gloss, and the core component polyester fiber are characteristic of the natural fiber and regenerated fiber of the sheath component. A good product having both fabric strength and wear resistance can be obtained.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic configuration diagram of a ring spinning machine that can be preferably used for producing the core-sheath type composite spun yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is an enlarged view of a main part of FIG.
[Explanation of symbols]
A: Polyester short fiber bundle B: Natural or regenerated fiber bundle 1, 2: Trumpet 3: Back roller 4: Apron 5a, 5b: Tapered front roller 6: Ring 7: Traveler 8: Bobbin

Claims (2)

Polyester having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or less, a 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage after boiling water treatment of 12 to 40%, a 180 ° C. dry heat shrinkage of 15 to 45% after boiling water treatment, and a change with time of 15% or less. A core-sheath type composite spun yarn comprising a core part composed of short fibers and a sheath part composed of natural fibers or regenerated fibers. A fabric comprising the core-sheath type composite spun yarn according to claim 1.

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