JP3062584U - Stretch woven and knitted fabric - Google Patents

Stretch woven and knitted fabric

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Publication number
JP3062584U
JP3062584U JP1999001989U JP198999U JP3062584U JP 3062584 U JP3062584 U JP 3062584U JP 1999001989 U JP1999001989 U JP 1999001989U JP 198999 U JP198999 U JP 198999U JP 3062584 U JP3062584 U JP 3062584U
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Prior art keywords
woven
knitted fabric
stretchable
spun yarn
fabric
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Japanese (ja)
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淳一 市川
幹雄 河合
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帝人テクロス株式会社
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Abstract

(57)【要約】 【課題】 はり、腰やプリーツの保持性に優れ、良好な
伸長弾性回復性能を呈する上、製織性にも優れた伸縮性
織編物を提供する。 【解決手段】 その任意の断面において、伸縮性の長繊
維を偏芯状態で含む複合紡績糸から主として構成される
織編物であって、該織編物の伸長弾性回復率が40%以
上である。
(57) [Problem] To provide a stretchable woven / knitted fabric excellent in retention of beams, waist and pleats, exhibiting good stretch elasticity recovery performance, and also excellent in weaving properties. SOLUTION: The woven or knitted fabric mainly composed of a composite spun yarn containing stretchable long fibers in an eccentric state in an arbitrary cross section, and the woven or knitted fabric has an elongation elastic recovery of 40% or more.

Description

【考案の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

【0001】[0001]

【考案の属する技術分野】[Technical field to which the invention belongs]

本考案は、良好な伸長弾性回復率を呈する伸縮性織編物に関するものであり、 さらに詳しくは、伸縮性の長繊維を偏芯状態で含む複合紡績糸から主として構成 される伸縮性織編物に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a stretchable woven or knitted fabric exhibiting a good stretch elastic recovery rate, and more particularly to a stretchable woven or knitted fabric mainly composed of a composite spun yarn containing stretchable long fibers in an eccentric state. It is.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】[Prior art]

布帛を構成する糸条として伸縮性の長繊維と紡績糸との複合糸を使用し、布帛 に紡績糸様の風合と伸縮性とを同時に付与することは良く知られている。例えば 、伸縮性の長繊維と紡績糸との交撚糸などがその代表例である。 It is well known that a composite yarn of a stretchable long fiber and a spun yarn is used as a yarn constituting a fabric to simultaneously impart a spun yarn-like feeling and stretchability to the fabric. For example, a twisted yarn of a stretchable long fiber and a spun yarn is a typical example.

【0003】 しかしながら、上記の交撚糸は、その構造上、伸縮性長繊維の有する伸縮性能 が充分に発現せず、従って、該交撚糸から構成される布帛は伸縮性能に劣る上、 伸縮性の長繊維と紡績糸との染着差に起因する外観の斑が発生するという欠点を 有している。[0003] However, the above-mentioned twisted yarn does not sufficiently exhibit the stretchability of the stretchable long fiber due to its structure, and therefore, the fabric composed of the twisted yarn is inferior in stretchability and stretchability. It has the disadvantage that spots in appearance occur due to the difference in dyeing between the long fiber and the spun yarn.

【0004】 このような欠点を改良するため、走行中のスライバーに、伸縮性の長繊維を伸 長した状態で混合させた後、加撚して得たいわゆるコアスパン糸を使用すること も知られている。該コアスパン糸は良好な伸縮性能を示し、伸縮性の長繊維が複 合糸の芯部に配置されているため外観の斑が発生しない一方、はり、腰が弱く、 プリーツの保持性に劣る上、製織性が不良であるという欠点がある。In order to improve such disadvantages, it is also known to use a so-called core spun yarn obtained by mixing a stretched long fiber with a running sliver in an elongated state and then twisting. ing. The core-spun yarn exhibits good stretchability, and since stretchable long fibers are arranged at the core of the composite yarn, uneven appearance does not occur, while the beam and the waist are weak and the pleated retention is poor. However, there is a disadvantage that the weavability is poor.

【0005】[0005]

【考案が解決しようとする課題】[Problems to be solved by the invention]

本考案の目的は上記従来技術の有する問題点を解消し、はり、腰やプリーツの 保持性に優れ、良好な伸長弾性回復性能を呈する上、製織性にも優れた伸縮性織 編物を提供することにある。 An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and to provide a stretchable woven fabric which is excellent in beam, waist and pleat retention properties, exhibits good elongation elasticity recovery performance, and is excellent in weavability. It is in.

【0006】[0006]

【課題を解決するための手段】 本考案者らは上記目的を達成するために鋭意検討した結果、走行中のスライバ ーに、伸縮性の長繊維を伸長した状態で偏芯混合させた後、織編物中で弾性回復 させるとき、所望の織編物が得られることを究明した。Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and as a result, after eccentric mixing of a stretchable long fiber in a running sliver in a stretched state, It was determined that the desired woven or knitted fabric was obtained when the elastic recovery was performed in the woven or knitted fabric.

【0007】 かくして本考案によれば、その任意の断面において、伸縮性の長繊維を偏芯状 態で含む複合紡績糸から主として構成される織編物であって、該織編物の伸長弾 性回復率が40%以上であることを特徴とする伸縮性織編物が提供される。[0007] Thus, according to the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric mainly composed of a composite spun yarn containing an elastic long fiber in an eccentric state in an arbitrary cross section thereof, and the woven or knitted fabric has a recovery in elongation elasticity. A stretchable woven or knitted fabric having a ratio of 40% or more is provided.

【0008】[0008]

【考案の実施の形態】[Embodiment of the invention]

本考案で使用する伸縮性の長繊維とは、ポリウレタン(スパンデックス)糸な ど、少なくとも400%以上の伸度を有する長繊維を言う。また、該伸縮性の長 繊維と混合する紡績糸を構成する繊維としては、天然繊維、合成繊維或いは再生 繊維等任意の繊維が使用できるが、風合の点からは羊毛、物性の点からはポリエ ステル繊維が好ましく例示される。 The stretchable long fibers used in the present invention are long fibers having an elongation of at least 400% or more, such as polyurethane (spandex) yarn. Further, any fiber such as natural fiber, synthetic fiber or regenerated fiber can be used as the fiber constituting the spun yarn to be mixed with the stretchable long fiber. A preferred example is polyester fiber.

【0009】 そして、本考案の織編物を得るには、先ず紡績糸の製造工程において、走行中 のスライバーに伸縮性の長繊維を伸長した状態で偏芯混合させた後、加撚して複 合紡績糸を得る。[0009] In order to obtain the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, first, in the manufacturing process of the spun yarn, eccentric mixing is performed in a state where the stretchable long fiber is stretched on the running sliver, and then twisted to form a multi-strand. Obtain a spun yarn.

【0010】 この際、伸縮性の長繊維の伸長率は100〜300%であることが好ましい。 また、偏芯混合の方法としては、精紡工程のフロントローラーの手前で伸縮性の 長繊維を2本の粗糸のうちの1本に重ね合わせ、該2本の粗糸をフロントローラ ーで送り出すと共に加撚する方法などが例示される。In this case, the stretch rate of the stretchable long fiber is preferably 100 to 300%. As a method of eccentric mixing, an elastic long fiber is superimposed on one of two rovings before the front roller in the spinning process, and the two rovings are mixed by the front roller. A method of feeding and twisting is exemplified.

【0011】 伸縮性の長繊維を偏芯させずに混合させた場合は、織編物に伸長弾性回復性能 を付与することはできるが、後述のプリーツ保持性が劣る。When stretchable long fibers are mixed without eccentricity, stretch elastic recovery performance can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, but the pleat retention described below is inferior.

【0012】 得られた複合紡績糸中に占める、伸縮性の長繊維の比率は5〜15重量%であ ることが好ましい。該比率が5重量%未満の場合は、得られる織編物に充分な伸 長弾性回復性能が付与できず、一方該比率が15重量を越える場合は、伸縮性の 長繊維の目むき(伸縮性の長繊維が透けて見える現象)が発生する場合がある。[0012] The proportion of the stretchable long fibers in the obtained composite spun yarn is preferably 5 to 15% by weight. If the ratio is less than 5% by weight, the obtained woven or knitted fabric cannot be provided with sufficient elongation and elasticity recovery performance, while if the ratio exceeds 15% by weight, the stretching of stretchable long fibers (stretchability). (A phenomenon in which the long fibers can be seen through).

【0013】 次いで、上記複合紡績糸は、そのカバーファクターCFが7〜11となるよう に任意の組織に製編織される。この際、上記複合紡績糸を経糸に使用した場合は 経糸(編物の場合はウエール方向)のカバーファクターが、また、上記複合紡績 糸を緯糸に使用した場合は緯糸(編物の場合はコース方向)のカバーファクター が上記範囲を満足すれば良い。Next, the composite spun yarn is knitted and woven into an arbitrary structure such that the cover factor CF becomes 7 to 11. At this time, the cover factor of the warp (in the case of a knitted fabric in the wale direction) is used when the composite spun yarn is used in the warp, and the weft (in the course direction in the case of knitted fabric) when the composite spun yarn is used in the weft. The cover factor should satisfy the above range.

【0014】 ここで、カバーファクターCFとは、下記式で表される値である。Here, the cover factor CF is a value represented by the following equation.

【0015】[0015]

【数2】 (Equation 2)

【0016】 本考案においては、さらに上記織編物を60〜180℃、好ましくは150〜 180℃の温度で加熱収縮させる。この加熱収縮により、伸長状態で複合紡績糸 に混合されていた伸縮性の長繊維が弾性回復し、織編物に良好な伸長弾性回復性 能が付与されるのである。In the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is further heat-shrinked at a temperature of 60 to 180 ° C., preferably 150 to 180 ° C. Due to this heat shrinkage, the stretchable long fiber mixed with the composite spun yarn in the stretched state is elastically recovered, and the woven or knitted fabric is given a good stretched elastic recovery performance.

【0017】 上記の加熱収縮は、乾熱或いは湿熱のいずれの状態で実施しても良く、ピンテ ンターなどの従来公知の加熱手段が任意に採用できる。The above-mentioned heat shrinkage may be carried out in either dry heat or wet heat state, and a conventionally known heating means such as a pin tenter can be arbitrarily adopted.

【0018】 上記加熱収縮の温度が60℃未満の場合は、織編物が充分に収縮せず、得られ る織編物の伸長弾性回復性能が低下する場合があり、一方、加熱収縮温度が18 0℃を越える場合は、織編物が収縮し過ぎて得られる織編物の風合が硬化したり 、織編物の物性が低下する場合がある。When the temperature of the heat shrinkage is lower than 60 ° C., the woven or knitted fabric may not be sufficiently shrunk, and the obtained woven or knitted fabric may have a reduced elongation elasticity recovery performance. If the temperature exceeds ℃, the texture of the obtained woven or knitted product may be hardened due to excessive shrinkage of the woven or knitted product, or the physical properties of the woven or knitted product may be reduced.

【0019】 上記の加熱収縮に際しては、下記式で定義するカバーファクターの変化率ΔC Fが10〜60%であることが好ましい。At the time of the above heat shrinkage, the change rate ΔCF of the cover factor defined by the following equation is preferably 10 to 60%.

【0020】[0020]

【数3】 (Equation 3)

【0021】 該変化率ΔCFが10%未満の場合は、織編物が充分に収縮せず、得られる織 編物の伸長弾性回復性能が低下する場合があり、一方、該変化率ΔCFが60% を越える場合は、織編物が収縮し過ぎて、得られる織編物の風合が硬化する場合 がある。When the rate of change ΔCF is less than 10%, the woven or knitted fabric does not shrink sufficiently, and the elongation / elasticity recovery performance of the obtained woven or knitted fabric may be reduced. On the other hand, when the rate of change ΔCF is less than 60%. If it exceeds, the woven or knitted fabric may shrink too much and the texture of the obtained woven or knitted fabric may be hardened.

【0022】 かくして得られた織編物は40%以上の伸長弾性回復率を示すことが必要であ る。該伸長弾性回復率が40%未満の場合は、織編物に良好な伸長弾性回復性能 を付与することができない。It is necessary that the woven or knitted fabric thus obtained has an elongation and elastic recovery of 40% or more. If the elongation elastic recovery is less than 40%, good stretch elastic recovery cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric.

【0023】 また、得られた織編物のプリーツ保持性は60%以上であることが好ましい。 該プリーツ保持性が60%未満の場合は、プリーツの保持性に劣る場合がある。Further, it is preferable that the pleat retention of the obtained woven or knitted fabric is 60% or more. When the pleat retention is less than 60%, the pleat retention may be poor.

【0024】[0024]

【実施例】【Example】

以下、本考案を実施例によりさらに詳細に説明する。尚、実施例中で用いた物 性は下記の方法により測定した。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. The physical properties used in the examples were measured by the following methods.

【0025】 (1)伸長弾性回復率 織編物から5cm×30cmの試験片を採取し、自記記録装置付き引張試験機 を用い、つかみ間隔が20cmになるように試験片をつかみ、引張速度2cm/ minで原長に対して1%を伸ばした後、同速度でもとの位置まで戻す。これを 原長の3、5%と順次行って荷重−伸長曲線を描き、5%伸長後もとの位置まで 戻ったときの残留伸度L’から下記式により伸長時の回復率を求める。尚、測定 は3回実施し、その平均値で表す。(1) Elongation Elasticity Recovery Rate A test piece of 5 cm × 30 cm was sampled from the woven or knitted fabric, and the test piece was gripped with a tensile tester equipped with a self-recording device so that the grip interval was 20 cm. After extending 1% of the original length in min, return to the original position at the same speed. This is sequentially performed with 3, 5% of the original length to draw a load-elongation curve, and the recovery rate at the time of elongation is calculated from the residual elongation L 'at the time of returning to the original position after elongation by 5% according to the following equation. The measurement was performed three times, and the average value was shown.

【0026】[0026]

【数4】 (Equation 4)

【0027】 (2)プリーツ保持性 織編物のプリーツ保持性をJIS 1060に従って測定した。(2) Pleated Retention The pleated retention of the woven or knitted fabric was measured in accordance with JIS 1060.

【0028】 (3)織編物の外観 伸縮性の長繊維の目むき及び該長繊維と紡績糸との染着差に起因する外観の斑 を熟練者5人により官能判定し、◎(極めて良好)、○(良好)、△(やや不良 )及び×(不良)の4段階で評価した。(3) Appearance of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Five skilled workers sensory-determine the peeling of the stretchable long fibers and the unevenness of the appearance caused by the difference in dyeing between the long fibers and the spun yarn. ), ((Good), Δ (slightly poor), and × (bad).

【0029】 (4)織編物の風合 織編物のはり、腰及び表面タッチを熟練者5人により官能判定し、◎(極めて 良好)、○(良好)、△(やや不良)及び×(不良)の4段階で評価した。(4) Hand feeling of the woven or knitted fabric The sensory judgment of the beam, waist and surface touch of the woven or knitted fabric was carried out by five skilled persons, and ((very good), ((good), Δ (somewhat bad) and × (poor) ) In four steps.

【0030】 (5)製職性 150cm幅の平織物を50m連続して製職(運転時間約30時間)した際の 製職性を、◎(停台なし)、○(わずかに停台あり)、△(停台あり)及び×( 停台多発)の4段階で評価した。(5) Workability The workability when a plain fabric of 150 cm width was manufactured continuously for 50 m (operating time: about 30 hours) was evaluated as ◎ (no stop), ○ (slight stop) ), △ (with stop) and × (frequent stop) were evaluated.

【0031】 [実施例1] 単繊維デニールが2.5デニール、繊維長が64〜89mmのポリエチレンテ レフタレート短繊維50重量%と羊毛50重量%とを混紡した、重量が0.35 g/mの粗糸2本を、リング精紡機の粗糸供給部に供給し、25倍のドラフト倍 率でドラフトした後、精紡用フロントローラーに供給した。Example 1 A mixture of 50% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate short fibers having a denier of 2.5 denier and a fiber length of 64 to 89 mm and 50% by weight of wool was weighed 0.35 g / m. Were supplied to a roving supply section of a ring spinning machine, drafted at a draft ratio of 25 times, and then supplied to a front roller for spinning.

【0032】 別に準備した全繊度20デニールのポリウレタン長繊維を、300%伸長させ た状態でフロントローラーに供給された2本の粗糸のうちの1本に重ね合わせ、 該2本の粗糸をフロントローラーで送り出すと共に、S 740t/mの撚数で 加撚して32番手の複合紡績糸を得た。該複合紡績糸はその任意の断面において 、図1に示す如く伸縮性の長繊維1を偏芯状態で含むものであった。[0032] A separately prepared polyurethane filament having a total fineness of 20 denier is superimposed on one of the two roving yarns supplied to the front roller in a state where it is stretched by 300%. The yarn was fed by a front roller and twisted with a twist number of S 740 t / m to obtain a 32nd-number composite spun yarn. The composite spun yarn contained an elastic long fiber 1 in an eccentric state in an arbitrary cross section as shown in FIG.

【0033】 次に、上記複合紡績糸を経糸及び緯糸に使用して、経糸密度50本/インチ( カバーファクターは8.8)、緯糸密度48本/インチ(カバーファクターは8 .5)の平織物を製織した。Next, using the composite spun yarn as a warp and a weft, a flat yarn having a warp density of 50 yarns / inch (cover factor is 8.8) and a weft yarn density of 48 yarns / inch (cover factor is 8.5) is used. The fabric was woven.

【0034】 得られた織物を常法により精練、染色した後、ピンテンターを用いて165℃ で5分間加熱収縮させ、経糸密度66本/インチ(カバーファクターは11.7 )、緯糸密度60本/インチ(カバーファクターは10.6)の平織物を得た。 得られた織物のカバーファクター変化率ΔCFは、経糸が33%、緯糸が25% であった。 得られた織物の物性を表1に示す。After scouring and dyeing the obtained woven fabric by a conventional method, it is heat shrunk at 165 ° C. for 5 minutes using a pin tenter, and has a warp density of 66 yarns / inch (cover factor of 11.7) and a weft yarn density of 60 yarns / hour. An inch (cover factor of 10.6) plain fabric was obtained. The cover factor change rate ΔCF of the obtained woven fabric was 33% for the warp and 25% for the weft. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained woven fabric.

【0035】 [比較例1] 実施例1において、重量が0.70g/mの粗糸1本を使用し、ポリウレタン 長繊維をフロントローラーに供給された1本の粗糸に重ね合わせた以外は実施例 1と同様に実施した。Comparative Example 1 The procedure of Example 1 was repeated, except that one roving having a weight of 0.70 g / m was used and the polyurethane filament was superimposed on one roving supplied to the front roller. The operation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1.

【0036】 得られた複合紡績糸はその任意の断面において、図2に示す如く伸縮性の長繊 維1が中心部に配置されたものであり、得られた平織物の経糸密度は60本/イ ンチ(カバーファクターは10.6)、緯糸密度は52本/インチ(カバーファ クターは9.2)で、カバーファクター変化率ΔCFは、経糸が20%、緯糸が 8%であった。 得られた織物の物性を表1に示す。The obtained composite spun yarn has a stretchable long fiber 1 arranged at the center in an arbitrary cross-section as shown in FIG. 2, and the obtained plain woven fabric has a warp density of 60 yarns. / Inch (cover factor was 10.6), weft density was 52 yarns / inch (cover factor was 9.2), and the cover factor change rate ΔCF was 20% for warp and 8% for weft. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained woven fabric.

【0037】 [比較例2] 単繊維デニールが2.5デニール、繊維長が64〜89mmのポリエチレンテ レフタレート短繊維50重量%と羊毛50重量%とを常法により混紡して得た6 4番手の紡績糸2本と、300%伸長させた全繊度20デニールのポリウレタン 長繊維とを、S 560t/mの撚数で交撚して交撚糸を得た。[Comparative Example 2] [0038] A 64th yarn obtained by blending 50% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate short fibers having a denier of a single fiber of 2.5 and a fiber length of 64 to 89mm with 50% by weight of wool by a conventional method. Was spun at a twist rate of S 560 t / m to obtain a cross-twisted yarn.

【0038】 次に、上記交撚糸を経糸及び緯糸に使用して、経糸密度50本/インチ(カバ ーファクターは8.8)、緯糸密度48本/インチ(カバーファクターは8.5 )の平織物を製織した。Next, a plain woven fabric having a warp density of 50 yarns / inch (cover factor: 8.8) and a weft yarn density of 48 yarns / inch (cover factor: 8.5) is used for the warp and weft yarns. Weaved.

【0039】 得られた織物を常法により精練、染色した後、ピンテンターを用いて165℃ で5分間加熱収縮させ、経糸密度54本/インチ(カバーファクターは9.5) 、緯糸密度52本/インチ(カバーファクターは9.2)の平織物を得た。得ら れた織物のカバーファクター変化率ΔCFは、経糸が8%、緯糸が8%であった 。 得られた織物の物性を表1に示す。After the obtained woven fabric is scoured and dyed by a conventional method, it is heat shrunk at 165 ° C. for 5 minutes using a pin tenter, and has a warp density of 54 yarns / inch (cover factor is 9.5) and a weft density of 52 yarns / An inch (9.2 cover factor) plain weave was obtained. The change factor of the cover factor ΔCF of the obtained woven fabric was 8% for the warp and 8% for the weft. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained woven fabric.

【0040】[0040]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0041】[0041]

【考案の効果】[Effect of the invention]

本考案によれば、はり、腰やプリーツの保持性に優れ、良好な伸長弾性回復性 能を呈する伸縮性織編物が容易に得られる。 ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the stretchable woven or knitted fabric which is excellent in holding the beam, the waist and the pleats, and exhibits a good elongation elastic recovery performance can be easily obtained.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of the drawings]

【図1】本考案の複合紡績糸の断面図。FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a composite spun yarn of the present invention.

【図2】従来の複合紡績糸の断面図。FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of a conventional composite spun yarn.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

1 伸縮性長繊維 2 複合紡績糸 1 Elastic long fiber 2 Composite spun yarn

Claims (5)

【実用新案登録請求の範囲】[Utility model registration claims] 【請求項1】 その任意の断面において、伸縮性の長繊
維を偏芯状態で含む複合紡績糸から主として構成される
織編物であって、該織編物の伸長弾性回復率が40%以
上であることを特徴とする伸縮性織編物。
1. A woven or knitted fabric mainly comprising a composite spun yarn containing stretchable long fibers in an eccentric state in an arbitrary cross-section, wherein the woven or knitted fabric has an elongation elastic recovery of 40% or more. A stretchable woven or knitted fabric, characterized in that:
【請求項2】 伸縮性の長繊維がポリウレタンである請
求項1記載の伸縮性織編物。
2. The stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable long fibers are polyurethane.
【請求項3】 織編物のプリーツ保持性が60%以上で
ある請求項1又は2記載の伸縮性織編物。
3. The stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the pleated retention of the woven or knitted fabric is 60% or more.
【請求項4】 織編物が60〜180℃で加熱収縮され
た織編物である請求項1、2又は3記載の伸縮性織編
物。
4. The stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is a woven or knitted fabric that has been heat shrunk at 60 to 180 ° C.
【請求項5】 下記式で定義する加熱収縮前後のカバー
ファクターの変化率ΔCFが10〜60%である請求項
4記載の伸縮性織編物。 【数1】
5. The stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to claim 4, wherein a change rate ΔCF of the cover factor before and after heat shrinkage defined by the following formula is 10 to 60%. (Equation 1)
JP1999001989U 1999-03-30 1999-03-30 Stretch woven and knitted fabric Expired - Lifetime JP3062584U (en)

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Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JP3062584U (en)

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