JP5221628B2 - Long and short composite spun yarn fabrics and products - Google Patents

Long and short composite spun yarn fabrics and products Download PDF

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JP5221628B2
JP5221628B2 JP2010254426A JP2010254426A JP5221628B2 JP 5221628 B2 JP5221628 B2 JP 5221628B2 JP 2010254426 A JP2010254426 A JP 2010254426A JP 2010254426 A JP2010254426 A JP 2010254426A JP 5221628 B2 JP5221628 B2 JP 5221628B2
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composite spun
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JP2012102445A (en
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秀樹 河端
美弘 松井
徹 上島
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Toyobo Co Ltd
Toyobo Specialties Trading Co Ltd
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Description

本発明は、牽伸された短繊維束と開繊された合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸を重ね合わせて合撚した長短複合紡績糸を引き揃えて撚糸した双糸あるいは三子糸を少なくとも一部に用いた織物であり、学生服やユニフォーム等に適した良好な風合いと柔らかさを保持しつつ、洗濯耐久性、詳しくは繰り返し洗濯後の寸法変化と毛羽立ちのない高性能な織物に関する。   The present invention uses at least a part of a twin yarn or triplet yarn in which long and short composite spun yarns obtained by superimposing twisted short fiber bundles and opened synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and twisting them together are twisted. The present invention relates to a high-performance woven fabric that retains a good texture and softness suitable for school uniforms and uniforms, and is durable and, in particular, a high-performance woven fabric without dimensional changes and fluff after repeated washing.

従来、天然繊維の特長を生かしながら、織物の耐久性を高める手段としては、天然繊維に合成繊維フィラメントを複合する方法(例えば、特許文献1参照)や天然繊維に合成繊維ステープルを混紡する方法(例えば、特許文献2参照)が知られている。   Conventionally, as a means for enhancing the durability of a fabric while taking advantage of the characteristics of natural fibers, a method of combining synthetic fiber filaments with natural fibers (for example, see Patent Document 1) or a method of blending synthetic fiber staples with natural fibers ( For example, see Patent Document 2).

特開平10−226938号公報Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-226938 特開2001−11749号公報JP 2001-11749 A

天然繊維並びに合成繊維ステープルと合成繊維マルチフィラメントからなる長短複合紡績糸は、その優れた耐久性や軽量感が得られることからジャージーや織物への用途に広く展開されている。特に、羊毛と合成繊維マルチフィラメントからなる長短複合紡績糸は細番手で強撚にすることが常であり、強撚にすることによって通気性の向上と軽量感に優れた織物が得られるため、春夏向けのスーツやフォーマルに好んで用途展開されている。また、毛織の製織工程では無糊製織が一般的であり、梳毛糸と各種フィラメントとの交撚糸も糊付けは行わず撚数を増して強撚とし、製織するのが一般的である。   Long and short composite spun yarns composed of natural fibers and synthetic fiber staples and synthetic fiber multifilaments are widely used for jerseys and textiles because of their excellent durability and light weight. In particular, long and short composite spun yarns composed of wool and synthetic fiber multifilaments are usually finely twisted and strongly twisted, so that a strong woven fabric with improved breathability and lightness can be obtained. It is used for suits and formal suits for spring and summer. Further, in the weaving process of woolen fabric, non-glue weaving is generally used, and the twisted yarns of the worsted yarn and various filaments are not glued and the number of twists is increased to form a strong twist and weaving is generally performed.

従って、長短複合紡績糸や各種梳毛糸と各種フィラメントとの交撚糸を用いた織物は、春夏素材には好適に用いられるが、秋冬素材としては風合が硬く好んで用いられることは少ない。   Accordingly, fabrics using long / short composite spun yarns and woven yarns of various types of lashed yarns and various filaments are preferably used for spring / summer materials, but are rarely used for autumn / winter materials because of their hard texture.

また、天然繊維素材に合成繊維ステープルを混紡して用いることは、綿紡績分野はもちろん、羊毛紡績分野、即ち、梳毛紡績および紡毛紡績分野の広範囲において、素材機能性の改良と付加価値向上ならびにコストダウンを目的として実施されている。特に羊毛とポリエステル系繊維の混紡糸を用いた織物は、高い耐久性が得られるので、ユニフォームや学生服に広く用いられている。   Furthermore, blending synthetic fiber staples with natural fiber materials is not only used in the cotton spinning field, but also in the wool spinning field, that is, in the wide range of the woolen spinning and woolen spinning fields. It is implemented for the purpose of down. In particular, fabrics using blended yarns of wool and polyester fibers are widely used for uniforms and school uniforms because of their high durability.

ところが、前記する従来の羊毛とポリエステル系繊維の長短複合紡績糸や混紡糸および交撚糸からなる織物は、使用時の耐摩耗性改良の面である程度成果はでているものの、着用洗濯後における良好な織物風合いの保持力と寸法変化率や毛羽立ちの発生には問題があり、この点の改善要求は極めて大であるがその方策はまだ確立されていない。   However, the conventional woven fabrics composed of long and short composite spun yarns and blended yarns and polyester yarns of wool and polyester fibers have achieved results to some extent in terms of improving wear resistance during use, but are good after wearing and washing. However, there is a problem with the holding power, the dimensional change rate and the occurrence of fuzzing, and the demand for improvement in this respect is extremely large, but no measures have been established yet.

本発明は、かかる事情を背景として鋭意検討を重ねた結果達成されたものであり、学生服やユニフォーム、特に学生服に適した織物で、洗濯耐久性、詳しくは繰り返し洗濯後の風合い変化と毛羽立ちの少ない、また、寸法変化率の少ない高性能な織物を提供することを目的とする。   The present invention has been achieved as a result of intensive studies on the background of such circumstances, and is a woven fabric suitable for school uniforms and uniforms, particularly school uniforms. The durability of the laundry, in particular, texture change and fluff after repeated washing. An object of the present invention is to provide a high-performance woven fabric with a small amount of dimensional change and a small dimensional change rate.

上記、課題を解決するための手段、即ち、本発明の構成は、合成繊維マルチフィラメントと短繊維が均一混合された長短複合紡績糸を2〜3本引き揃えて合撚した双糸または三子糸を少なくとも一部に用いた織物であり、特に織物の片面が毛焼きされているのが望ましい。   The above-mentioned means for solving the problem, that is, the configuration of the present invention is a twin yarn or triplet in which two to three long and short composite spun yarns in which synthetic fiber multifilaments and short fibers are uniformly mixed are aligned and twisted. It is a woven fabric using yarn at least in part, and it is particularly desirable that one side of the woven fabric is baked.

長短複合紡績糸の均一混合の手段は、電気開繊によるのが望ましい。   The means for uniformly mixing the long and short composite spun yarns is preferably by electrospreading.

本発明の織物には、織糸として長短複合紡績糸を2〜3本引き揃えて合撚した双糸あるいは三子糸を用いるが、特に長短複合紡績糸の合撚前の単糸の撚係数は、40〜100とするのが望ましい。   In the woven fabric of the present invention, a twin yarn or triplet yarn in which two or three long and short composite spun yarns are aligned and twisted as a woven yarn is used, and in particular, the twist coefficient of a single yarn before twisting of the long and short composite spun yarns Is preferably 40-100.

織物の目付け(g/m)が織物のカバーファクター(CF)の2倍近傍であることが望ましい。 It is desirable that the fabric weight (g / m 2 ) is around twice the fabric cover factor (CF).

本発明の織物は、合成繊維マルチフィラメントと短繊維とが均一混合された長短複合紡績糸を2〜3本引き揃えて撚糸した糸条を少なくとも一部に用いた織物であり、製織された織物の片面を毛焼き処理することで驚くべきことに、何回洗濯しても当初の優れた風合を維持し、毛羽立ちが少なく、寸法変化率の少ない安定な織物が得られる。   The woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric using at least a part of a yarn obtained by aligning two to three long and short composite spun yarns in which synthetic multifilaments and short fibers are uniformly mixed and twisted. Surprisingly, it is possible to obtain a stable woven fabric that retains the original excellent texture, is less fuzzed, and has a low dimensional change rate.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸の製造装置の概略図である。It is the schematic of the manufacturing apparatus of the long and short composite spun yarn used for the textile fabric of this invention.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸は、合成繊維マルチフィラメントと短繊維が均一混合された複合紡績糸であることが織物の洗濯耐久性を達成する上で望ましい。合成繊維マルチフィラメントと短繊維を均一混合させる方法としては、電気開繊法や擦過法等が採用できるが、安定した開繊状態を保持するため、或いは短繊維と合成繊維マルチフィラメントが均一に混合された理想的な状態を実現するためには電気開繊法が特に好ましい。   The long and short composite spun yarn used in the fabric of the present invention is preferably a composite spun yarn in which synthetic multifilaments and short fibers are uniformly mixed in order to achieve the washing durability of the fabric. As a method of uniformly mixing the synthetic fiber multifilament and the short fiber, an electric fiber opening method or a scraping method can be adopted. However, in order to maintain a stable fiber opening state, the short fiber and the synthetic fiber multifilament are uniformly mixed. The electrospreading method is particularly preferable in order to realize the ideal state.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸を形成する合成繊維マルチフィラメントはポリエステル系マルチフィラメントが好ましく、代表的には、ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントおよびポリブチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントが挙げられる。ここで、合成繊維がポリアミド繊維の場合は耐熱性が低くなる問題があり、織物の整理工程、芯地を熱接着する工程あるいはプレス工程で織物の収縮を惹起する傾向がある。   The synthetic fiber multifilament forming the long and short composite spun yarn used in the fabric of the present invention is preferably a polyester multifilament, and typically includes polyethylene terephthalate multifilament, polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament, and polybutylene terephthalate multifilament. . Here, when the synthetic fiber is a polyamide fiber, there is a problem that heat resistance is lowered, and there is a tendency to cause shrinkage of the fabric in the fabric arranging process, the process of thermally bonding the interlining, or the pressing process.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸を形成する合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸の繊度(デシテックス)は、11〜110デシテックス、より好ましくは17〜84デシテックスとするのが良い。ここで、マルチフィラメント糸の繊度が110デシテックスを超えると、短繊維本来の風合いを損なう傾向が出てくるので好ましくない。一方、11デシテックスを下回ると、短繊維との調和に影響が出てくるので好ましくない。   The fineness (decitex) of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn forming the long and short composite spun yarn used in the fabric of the present invention is preferably 11 to 110 dtex, more preferably 17 to 84 dtex. Here, when the fineness of the multifilament yarn exceeds 110 dtex, it is not preferable because the original texture of the short fiber tends to be impaired. On the other hand, if it is less than 11 decitex, the harmony with short fibers is affected, which is not preferable.

前記マルチフィラメントの単糸繊度(デシテックス)は、好ましくは0.1〜6.6デシテックス、より好ましくは、0.2〜3.3デシテックスとするのが良い。マルチフィラメントの単糸繊度が0.1デシテックスを下回る場合にあっては、織物にしたときに腰が弱くなり、一方、6.6デシテックスを越える場合にあっては、織物にしたときに、硬くなる傾向がでてくるので好ましくない。   The single yarn fineness (decitex) of the multifilament is preferably 0.1 to 6.6 dtex, more preferably 0.2 to 3.3 dtex. When the single filament fineness of the multifilament is less than 0.1 dtex, the waist becomes weak when made into a woven fabric, while when it exceeds 6.6 dtex, it becomes hard when made into a woven fabric. This is not preferable.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸を形成する短繊維は、羊毛、綿、絹、麻、ポリエステル系合成繊維ステープル、レーヨンステープルおよびアセテートステープル等から選択されたすくなくとも1つの繊維とすることが望ましい。   The short fiber forming the long and short composite spun yarn used for the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably at least one fiber selected from wool, cotton, silk, hemp, polyester-based synthetic fiber staple, rayon staple, acetate staple and the like. .

特に、学生服、ユニフォームといった用途においては、着用者の激しい運動などの動きによって起こる耐磨耗性、耐久性などの面から羊毛単独あるいは羊毛(ウールとも言う)とポリエステルステープルとの混紡素材として用いるのが好ましい。   In particular, in applications such as school uniforms and uniforms, it is used as a blend of wool alone or wool (also called wool) and polyester staples in terms of wear resistance and durability caused by the wearer's intense movements. Is preferred.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸は、長繊維と短繊維の複合割合によって織物の物性に与える影響が大きく、好ましくは、長短複合紡績糸全体に対して、短繊維の占める割合を50〜95重量%、より好ましくは60〜90重量%とするのが良い。ここで、50重量%を下回る場合にあっては、短繊維とマルチフィラメントの絡合性に悪影響がでてくるので好ましくない。一方、95%を超える場合にあっては、マルチフィラメントによる織物への物性補強効果が低下するので好ましくない。   The long and short composite spun yarn used in the woven fabric of the present invention has a great influence on the physical properties of the fabric due to the composite ratio of long fibers and short fibers, and preferably the proportion of short fibers accounted for 50 to It is 95% by weight, more preferably 60 to 90% by weight. Here, when the amount is less than 50% by weight, the entanglement between the short fiber and the multifilament is adversely affected. On the other hand, if it exceeds 95%, the effect of reinforcing the physical properties of the woven fabric by the multifilament is not preferable.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸は、合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸を、電気開繊して、ドラフトされている短繊維束(短繊維フリースとも言う)とフロントローラの直前で重ね合わせて複合紡績することにより製造ができる。   The long and short composite spun yarn used for the woven fabric of the present invention is a composite spun yarn obtained by electrically opening a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn and superimposing the drafted short fiber bundle (also called short fiber fleece) just before the front roller. Can be manufactured.

合成繊維マルチフィラメントの開繊幅は、短繊維フリースの最大幅と同等かそれより大きくすることが好ましい。   The opening width of the synthetic fiber multifilament is preferably equal to or greater than the maximum width of the short fiber fleece.

合成繊維マルチフィラメントと短繊維フリースの供給位置の決定は、開繊電極の位置あるいは開繊したフィラメントの専用ガイドを用いて調整が可能である。合成繊維マルチフィラメントの開繊幅の調整は開繊の電圧、供給テンション、フィラメントの専用ガイド等の調節による。   Determination of the supply position of the synthetic fiber multifilament and the short fiber fleece can be adjusted by using the position of the opened electrode or a dedicated guide for the opened filament. The opening width of the synthetic fiber multifilament is adjusted by adjusting the opening voltage, supply tension, filament dedicated guide, etc.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸は、例えば図1に示す装置を用いて製造することができる。すなわち図1によれば、その装置はバックローラ1、クレードル2、フロントローラ3を順に配置し、フロントローラ3の下方にスネルワイヤ4、さらに下方にリングとトラベラ5を備えた巻き取り装置を配備し、前記フロントローラ3の送り込み側の上方に上から静電気印加用の開繊電極6およびその下方に環状ガイド7を備えている。   The long and short composite spun yarn used for the fabric of the present invention can be produced, for example, using the apparatus shown in FIG. That is, according to FIG. 1, the apparatus has a back roller 1, a cradle 2, and a front roller 3 arranged in this order, and a winding device having a snell wire 4 below the front roller 3 and a ring and a traveler 5 below. Further, an opening electrode 6 for applying static electricity from above is provided above the feeding side of the front roller 3 and an annular guide 7 is provided below the opening electrode 6.

つぎに、長短複合紡績糸の好ましい製造例を記述する。まず、パーン8に巻き取られたマルチフィラメント糸Aを解除しガイド9を経て、開繊電極6で静電気を印加開繊させ、次いで環状ガイド7を通して開繊幅および供給位置をコントロールしつつフロントローラ3に供給する。一方、粗糸Bをバックローラ1に供給し、クレードル2、フロントローラ3の間でドラフトを行い、フリース状の短繊維束Bとしてフロントローラ3に供給する。フロントローラ3に供給された開繊マルチフィラメント糸Aとフリース状の短繊維束Bはフロントローラ3のニップ点で混合される。このとき、マルチフィラメントの開繊幅を短繊維フリースの最大幅と同等かそれ以上に開繊させ、短繊維フリースの中心に開繊したマルチフィラメントの中心を重ね合わせて混合する。フロントローラ3を通過したマルチフィラメントと短繊維フリースは加撚されることにより横断面が均一に混合された状態に保たれ、スネルワイヤ4を経てリングトラベラ5により管糸10に巻き取られる。この時、撚係数40〜100で撚糸される。かくして得られた長短複合紡績糸単糸はさらに撚係数50〜110で2〜3本引き揃えて撚糸し、所謂、双糸や三子糸などにした後、製織工程に供される。   Next, preferred production examples of long and short composite spun yarn will be described. First, the multifilament yarn A taken up by the PAN 8 is released, the guide 9 is passed through, the static electricity is applied and opened by the spread electrode 6, and the front roller is then controlled through the annular guide 7 while controlling the spread width and supply position. 3 is supplied. On the other hand, the roving yarn B is supplied to the back roller 1, drafted between the cradle 2 and the front roller 3, and supplied to the front roller 3 as a fleece short fiber bundle B. The opened multifilament yarn A and the fleece short fiber bundle B supplied to the front roller 3 are mixed at the nip point of the front roller 3. At this time, the spread width of the multifilament is set to be equal to or greater than the maximum width of the short fiber fleece, and the center of the opened multifilament is overlapped and mixed with the center of the short fiber fleece. The multifilament and the short fiber fleece that have passed through the front roller 3 are twisted to keep the cross section uniformly mixed, and are wound around the tube yarn 10 by the ring traveler 5 via the snell wire 4. At this time, the yarn is twisted with a twist coefficient of 40 to 100. The long and short composite spun yarn obtained in this way is further twisted by twisting 2 to 3 yarns with a twisting factor of 50 to 110, so as to form so-called twin yarns, triplet yarns, etc., and then subjected to a weaving process.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸は、長短複合紡績単糸を2〜3本引き揃えて撚糸を行い、双糸や三子糸にする。従来の梳毛織物は、一般に、製織の際糊付けを行わずに製織することから、長短複合紡績糸、ならびに梳毛単糸と各種フィラメントとの交撚糸も撚り数を増加して強撚にすることを必要としていた。従って、織物の風合いが硬くなり、殊に秋冬物用途には不向きでもあった。ところが、本発明に於いては、長短複合紡績糸の単糸の撚数を従来品に比べて甘撚にすることで、前記した従来品の風合いの問題を解消している。   The long and short composite spun yarn used for the woven fabric of the present invention is twisted by aligning two or three long and short composite spun single yarns to form twin yarns or triplet yarns. Since conventional woven fabrics are generally woven without gluing during weaving, long and short composite spun yarns, and twisted yarns of single lashed yarns and various filaments should also be twisted by increasing the number of twists. I needed it. Accordingly, the texture of the fabric becomes hard, and it is not particularly suitable for use in autumn and winter. However, in the present invention, the above-mentioned problem of the texture of the conventional product is solved by setting the number of twists of the single yarn of the long and short composite spun yarn to be a sweet twist compared to the conventional product.

本発明の織物に用いる長短複合紡績糸、即ち出発原糸の撚係数は40〜100、より好ましくは55〜85とするのが良い。撚係数が40未満の場合、紡績性が低下する傾向にあり、織物に用いた場合ピリングの発生が増加する傾向にあるので好ましくない。一方、100を超えると、紡績性やピリング発生の問題は解消されるが、織物の風合いが硬くなってしまうので好ましくない。   The twist coefficient of the long and short composite spun yarn used for the fabric of the present invention, that is, the starting raw yarn, is 40 to 100, more preferably 55 to 85. When the twist coefficient is less than 40, the spinnability tends to decrease, and when used in a woven fabric, the occurrence of pilling tends to increase, such being undesirable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 100, the problem of spinnability and pilling is solved, but the texture of the fabric becomes hard.

長短複合紡績糸の単糸使いであれば、前記甘撚りの係数では、製織性に問題を起こすが、単糸2〜3本を撚糸することで製織性、ピリングの発生等の問題が解消される。   If you use single yarns of long and short composite spun yarns, the above-mentioned coefficient of sweet twist causes problems in weaving properties, but by twisting 2 to 3 single yarns, problems such as weaving properties and occurrence of pilling are solved. The

本発明の織物に使用する長短複合紡績糸(出発原糸)を2〜3本以上引き揃えて撚糸する場合の撚係数は50〜110であることが好ましい。このときの撚係数が50未満であると毛羽が発生しやすく製織性が悪くなり、ピリングの発生の問題を惹起するので好ましくない。110を超えると糸が締まってくるために風合いが硬くなる傾向がでてくるので好ましくない。より好ましい撚係数の範囲は60〜90である。   It is preferable that the twist coefficient is 50 to 110 when two to three or more long and short composite spun yarns (starting raw yarns) used in the woven fabric of the present invention are aligned and twisted. If the twisting coefficient at this time is less than 50, fluff is liable to occur and the weaving property is deteriorated, which causes a problem of pilling. If it exceeds 110, the yarn is tightened and the texture tends to become hard, which is not preferable. A more preferable range of the twist coefficient is 60 to 90.

本発明の織物のカバーファクター(CF)の範囲は、特に限定はないが、75.0〜130.0、より好ましくは、80.0〜125.0とするのが良い。ここで75を下回る場合にあっては、織物全体の張り腰および耐久性が不足するので、ユニフォームや学生服への適用は好ましくない。一方、130を超える場合にあっては耐久性向上の傾向があるが、風合いが硬くなり着用快適性が低下し、目的とする織物用途に適合しなくなるので好ましくない。   The range of the cover factor (CF) of the fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 75.0 to 130.0, and more preferably 80.0 to 125.0. If it is below 75, the tension and durability of the entire fabric is insufficient, so application to a uniform or school uniform is not preferable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 130, the durability tends to be improved, but the texture becomes hard and the wearing comfort is lowered, so that it is not suitable for the intended textile use.

特に、織物のカバーファクターの好適領域は織物の組織によって変化する。
例えば、平織、綾織、サージの場合、以下の領域が特に好ましい。
平織 75.0〜 90.0
2/1綾織 95.0〜125.0
2/2サージ 110.0〜130.0
平織は、組織として最も安定しているため、打ち込み本数が少なくても織物としての形状を維持し、洗濯後の寸法変化、型崩れを最小限に抑えることが出来るため、軽量化織物に好ましい組織である。2/1綾織も比較的形状を維持しやすいため、打ち込み本数を少なくすることができる。2/2のサージにおいては、経緯の糸の交点が少なくなるため、形状の維持が難しくなり、打ち込み本数を多く必要とする。このため、CFも高い範囲が好ましい範囲となる。
In particular, the preferred region of the fabric cover factor varies with the fabric texture.
For example, in the case of plain weave, twill, and surge, the following regions are particularly preferable.
Plain weave 75.0-90.0
2/1 twill 95.0-125.0
2/2 Surge 110.0-130.0
Plain weave is the most stable structure, so it can maintain its shape as a woven fabric even with a small number of drivings, and can minimize dimensional changes and deformation after washing. It is. Since the 2/1 twill weave is relatively easy to maintain the shape, the number of driving can be reduced. In a 2/2 surge, the number of intersections of the weft and the warp is small, so that it is difficult to maintain the shape, and a large number of driving is required. For this reason, the range with high CF is also a preferable range.

本発明に言うカバーファクター(CFと略する場合もある)は以下によって求められる。
CF=CF(経糸)+CF(緯糸)
CF(経糸)=織物の経糸密度(本/10cm)÷√(梳毛番手)
CF(緯糸)=織物の緯糸密度(本/10cm)÷√(梳毛番手)
The cover factor (sometimes abbreviated as CF) referred to in the present invention is obtained as follows.
CF = CF (warp) + CF (weft)
CF (warp) = Warp density of fabric (10 / 10cm) ÷ √ (wrist count)
CF (weft) = Weft density of fabric (10 / 10cm) ÷ √ (wool count)

本発明の織物の目付けは、特に限定はないが、120〜280(g/m)、より好ましくは140〜250(g/m)とするのが良い。ここで120(g/m)を下回る場合にあっては、織物全体の張り腰が減少すると共に着用時の耐久性が不足し、ユニフォームや学生服への適用が困難になるので好ましくない。一方280(g/m)を超える場合にあっては織物自体がごわごわして目的とする織物用途に適合しなくなるので好ましくない。 The basis weight of the fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 120 to 280 (g / m 2 ), more preferably 140 to 250 (g / m 2 ). Here, if it is less than 120 (g / m 2 ), the tension of the entire fabric is reduced and the durability at the time of wearing is insufficient, which makes it difficult to apply to uniforms and school uniforms. On the other hand, if it exceeds 280 (g / m 2 ), the fabric itself is stiff and is not suitable for the intended use of the fabric.

本発明の織物は、織物の目付け(g/m)を織物のカバーファクター(CF)2倍近傍に形成することにより、目的とする洗濯耐久性、詳しくは繰り返し洗濯後の風合い変化と毛羽立ちが少なく、また、寸法変化率の少ない織物が得られるので、織物の目付け(g/m)を織物のカバーファクター(CF)2倍近傍に形成することは特に望ましい。ここで言う2倍近傍とは、1.90〜2.10である。
特に、織組織により好ましい範囲が存在することが判明した。平織、2/1綾織においては、1.95〜2.05、2/2サージにおいては、1.98〜2.02である。
In the woven fabric of the present invention, the fabric weight per unit area (g / m 2 ) is formed in the vicinity of twice the fabric cover factor (CF), so that the intended washing durability, in particular, texture change and fluffing after repeated washing can be achieved. Since a woven fabric having a small dimensional change rate is obtained, it is particularly desirable to form the fabric weight (g / m 2 ) in the vicinity of twice the fabric cover factor (CF). The double vicinity mentioned here is 1.90 to 2.10.
In particular, it has been found that there is a preferable range depending on the woven structure. In plain weave, 2/1 twill weave, 1.95 to 2.05, and in 2/2 surge, it is 1.98 to 2.02.

本発明の織物は、製織された生機をガス毛焼き機に通して、ガスバーナーで、布面を約400〜1200℃の温度で、処理速度30〜100m/分程度で毛焼き処理を行う。この場合、毛焼きするのは、織物のカバーファクターおよび/または目付けとの兼ね合いもあるが、片面毛焼きとすることが重要である。ここで、片面毛焼き処理を行うことによって通常の毛焼きの目的、効果とは全く異なる予想外の効果、即ち、織物の洗濯後の物性、殊に、織物の寸法変化率を安定させると同時に風合変化や毛羽立ちの発生を抑制すると言った格別の効果が得られる。その理由は明らかではないが、片面の毛焼きを行うことにより、織物が熱セットされ、寸法安定性が向上されるものと推定される。   The woven fabric of the present invention is subjected to a hair burning treatment with a gas burner by passing the woven green machine through a gas hair burning machine at a temperature of about 400 to 1200 ° C. and a treatment speed of about 30 to 100 m / min. In this case, it is important that the hair is burned on one side, although there is a tradeoff with the cover factor and / or weight of the fabric. Here, by performing the single-sided hair-burning treatment, an unexpected effect completely different from the purpose and effect of normal hair-burning is stabilized, that is, the physical properties of the fabric after washing, in particular, the dimensional change rate of the fabric is stabilized. A special effect that suppresses the occurrence of texture change and fluffing is obtained. The reason for this is not clear, but it is presumed that the woven fabric is heat-set and the dimensional stability is improved by performing single-sided hair burning.

ここで、両面毛焼きをした場合は、寸法安定性は向上するが、織物風合いが硬くなる傾向を示す。   Here, when double-sided hair baking is performed, the dimensional stability is improved, but the fabric texture tends to be hard.

以下に具体的な製造例に基づいて本発明を詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれら製造例に制限されるものではなく、前、後記の趣旨に適合し得る範囲で変更を加えて実施することも可能であり、それらはいずれも本発明の技術的範囲に包含される。
尚、製造例における各性能の評価は以下に記載の方法で行った。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on specific production examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these production examples, and is implemented with modifications within a range that can be adapted to the purpose described below. All of which are within the scope of the present invention.
In addition, evaluation of each performance in a manufacture example was performed by the method as described below.

(撚係数)
撚係数は、K=T/√N により求める。ここでKは、撚係数、Tは1mあたりの撚数、Nは、単糸番手を示す。双糸の場合は、それを構成する単糸番手を使用する。(例:単糸の60番手は1/60と表し、このときNは、60で計算する。)
(Twisting coefficient)
The twist coefficient is obtained by K = T / √N. Here, K is a twist coefficient, T is the number of twists per meter, and N is a single yarn count. In the case of twin yarn, use the single yarn count that composes it. (Example: 60th single yarn is expressed as 1/60, and N is calculated by 60 at this time.)

(撚数の測定方法)
JIS L1095 一般紡績糸試験方法の 9.15.1A法 による。
(Measurement method of twist number)
According to 9.15.1A method of JIS L1095 general spun yarn test method.

(ピリングの測定方法)
JIS L 1076 6.a)A 法(ICI 法)をによる。
(Measurement method of pilling)
JIS L 1076 6. a) According to method A (ICI method).

(磨耗強さの測定方法)
JIS L 1096 8.17.5 E法(マーチンデール法)による。
(Measurement method of wear strength)
According to JIS L 1096 8.17.5 E method (Martindale method).

(長短複合紡績糸および混紡糸の混用率の測定方法)
JIS L1030−2 繊維製品の混用率試験方法−第2部:繊維混用率 4.b)溶解法による。
(Measurement method of mixing ratio of long / short composite spun yarn and blended yarn)
JIS L1030-2 Test method for mixed ratio of textile products-Part 2: Mixed ratio of fibers b) By dissolution method.

(洗濯試験方法)
洗濯試験方法として、JIS L 0217 103法を採用した。
合成洗剤を溶解した洗濯液に対し、浴比が1: 30になるように織物および必要に応じて負荷布を投入して洗濯を行った 。洗濯は10回繰り返して行い、洗濯後、平置きで風乾した織物を洗濯後の物性評価用の試料とした。
(Laundry test method)
The JIS L 0217 103 method was adopted as a washing test method.
Washing was performed by adding a fabric and, if necessary, a load cloth to the washing liquid in which the synthetic detergent was dissolved so that the bath ratio was 1:30. Washing was repeated 10 times. After washing, a fabric that was air-dried flatly was used as a sample for evaluating physical properties after washing.

(洗濯前後の寸法変化率の評価方法)
JIS L 1909 繊維製品の寸法変化率測定方法による。洗濯前の織物の準備は、7.1に従い、織物に35cmの長さを表す印を付けた。寸法変化率の測定および計算は10.aによる。測定結果については、経方向、緯方向それぞれの寸法変化率のうち変化率の絶対値の大きいほうの値が、下記のどのランクに入るか評価をした。
寸法変化率 ±2%未満 ○
寸法変化率 ±2〜4% △
寸法変化率 ±4%を超える ×
(Evaluation method of dimensional change rate before and after washing)
According to JIS L 1909 dimensional change rate measurement method for textile products. The preparation of the fabric before washing was in accordance with 7.1 and the fabric was marked to represent a length of 35 cm. Measurement and calculation of dimensional change rate is 10. According to a. As for the measurement results, it was evaluated which of the following ranks the value with the larger absolute value of the change rate out of the dimensional change rate in each of the longitudinal direction and the weft direction falls.
Dimensional change rate Less than ± 2% ○
Dimensional change rate ± 2-4% △
Dimensional change rate exceeds ± 4% ×

(洗濯後の織物の風合評価方法)
それぞれの条件で織成した織物について洗濯試験を行い、洗濯試験後の織物を たて15cm×よこ15cmに裁断して評価の試料とした。この試料を、モニター5人により、試料を両手で挟み揉むようにして反応する触感を以下に示すランクに基づいて評価した。5人の評価の平均値を風合いの評価点とした。
非常にソフト 5
ソフト 4
普通 3
少し硬い 2
硬い 1
(Texture evaluation method for fabric after washing)
The woven fabric woven under each condition was subjected to a laundering test, and the woven fabric after the laundering test was cut into 15 cm × 15 cm wide and used as samples for evaluation. This sample was evaluated by five monitors based on the following ranks for the tactile sensation to react as if the sample was pinched with both hands. The average value of the evaluation of five people was used as the evaluation score of the texture.
Very soft 5
Software 4
Normal 3
A little hard 2
Hard 1

(洗濯後の織物の毛羽立評価方法)
それぞれの条件で織成した織物について洗濯試験を行い、洗濯試験後の織物を たて15cm×よこ15cmに裁断して評価の試料とした。この試料を、モニター5人により、目視判定により以下に示すランクに基づいて評価した。5人の評価の平均値を風合いの評価点とした。
毛羽立ち非常に少ない 5
毛羽立ち少ない 4
毛羽立ちややあり 3
毛羽立ち多い 2
毛羽立ち非常に多い 1
(Evaluation method for fluff after washing)
The woven fabric woven under each condition was subjected to a laundering test, and the woven fabric after the laundering test was cut into 15 cm × 15 cm wide and used as samples for evaluation. This sample was evaluated by five monitors based on the following rank by visual judgment. The average value of the evaluation of five people was used as the evaluation score of the texture.
Very little fuzz 5
Less fuzz 4
Slightly fuzzy 3
Lots of fuzz 2
A lot of fuzz 1

(製造例1)
図1に示す装置に粗糸BとしてESS混梳毛(羊毛75重量%:ESS25重量%)粗糸1/5.0Nmをバックローラ1から供給し、バックローラ1およびクレードル2とフロントローラ3との間に於いて、全ドラフト倍率18.0倍でドラフトした。一方マルチフィラメント糸Aとしてポリエステルフィラメント糸56デシテックス/24フィラメントを用い、ガイド9を経て開繊電極6に供給した。開繊電極6では前記マルチフィラメント糸Aに−3000Vを印加して開繊させ、次いで環状ガイド7を通して開繊幅をフリースの最大幅の150%とし、ドラフトされたフリース状の前記粗糸Bの中心に開繊フィラメントの中心が重なる様に開繊フィラメントとフリース状の粗糸Bの供給位置を規制しつつ、フロントローラ3に供給し、前記フロントローラ3でドラフトされたフリース状の前記粗糸Bと重ね合わせて混合し、撚数460T/m(Z撚り)に加撚して、ポリエステル50%/羊毛(ウールとも言う)50%、番手1/60Nm撚係数65の長短複合紡績糸を管糸10に巻き上げた。
(Production Example 1)
1 is fed with ESS kneaded wool (wool 75% by weight: ESS 25% by weight) roving 1 / 5.0 Nm from the back roller 1 as the roving B, and the back roller 1, the cradle 2 and the front roller 3 In the meantime, the draft was drafted at a total draft magnification of 18.0 times. On the other hand, a polyester filament yarn 56 dtex / 24 filament was used as the multifilament yarn A, which was supplied to the spread electrode 6 through the guide 9. In the opening electrode 6, -3000V is applied to the multifilament yarn A for opening, then the opening width is set to 150% of the maximum width of the fleece through the annular guide 7, and the drafted fleece-shaped roving B The fleece-like rovings that are supplied to the front roller 3 and drafted by the front roller 3 while the supply position of the opening filaments and the fleece-like rovings B are regulated so that the center of the opening filament overlaps the center. Superposed and mixed with B, twisted to a twist number of 460 T / m (Z-twisted), 50% polyester / wool (also called wool) 50% yarn count, 1/60 Nm twist coefficient 65 long and short composite spun yarn It was wound up on thread 10.

この長短複合紡績糸を2本引揃えて、単糸の撚方向と逆の方向(S撚り)に撚係数70で双糸(2/60Nm)に撚糸した後、経糸打込数245(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数225(本/10cm)で織物組織平織を製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、片面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは85.8であった。織物の目付は176g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。 Two of these long and short composite spun yarns are aligned and twisted into a twin yarn (2/60 Nm) with a twisting factor of 70 in the opposite direction (S twist) of the single yarn, and then the number of warp driven yarns is 245 10 cm), and a weave weaving number of 225 (lines / 10 cm) was used to weave a plain weave fabric. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 85.8. The fabric weight was 176 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例2)
粗糸Bとして羊毛100%で製造した1/5.0Nmの梳毛粗糸を、マルチフィラメントAとしてポリエステルフィラメント33デシテックス/18フィラメントを複合した以外は、製造例1と同様にして、羊毛80重量%、ポリエステル20重量%の長短複合紡績糸を紡績し、双糸加工を行った後、平織の織物にした。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、片面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは85.8であった。織物の目付は176g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 2)
80% by weight of wool in the same manner as in Production Example 1 except that a 1 / 5.0 Nm worsted roasted yarn manufactured with 100% wool as roving yarn B was combined with a polyester filament 33 dtex / 18 filament as multifilament A. A 20% by weight polyester long / short composite spun yarn was spun and subjected to twin yarn processing to obtain a plain woven fabric. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 85.8. The fabric weight was 176 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例3)
製造例1と同様に双糸加工された長短複合紡績糸(2/60Nm)を用いて、経糸打込数320(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数265(本/10cm)で2/1の綾織で製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、片面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは106.8であった。織物の目付けは218g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 3)
Using the long and short composite spun yarn (2/60 Nm) processed in the same manner as in Production Example 1, the warp driving number is 320 (lines / 10 cm) and the weft driving number is 265 (lines / 10 cm). Weaved with twill. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 106.8. The fabric weight was 218 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例4)
製造例1と同様に双糸加工された長短複合紡績糸(2/60Nm)を用いて、経糸打込数370(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数290(本/10cm)で2/1の綾織で製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、片面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは120.5であった。織物の目付けは244g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 4)
Using the long and short composite spun yarn (2/60 Nm) processed in the same manner as in Production Example 1, the warp driving number is 370 (lines / 10 cm) and the weft driving number is 290 (lines / 10 cm). Weaved with twill. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 120.5. The fabric weight was 244 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例5)
製造例1と同様に双糸加工された長短複合紡績糸(2/60Nm)を用いて、経糸打込数295(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数245(本/10cm)で2/1の綾織で製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、片面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは98.6であった。織物の目付けは192g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 5)
Using the long and short composite spun yarn (2/60 Nm) processed in the same manner as in Production Example 1, the warp yarn driving number is 295 (lines / 10 cm) and the weft yarn driving number is 245 (lines / 10 cm). Weaved with twill. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 98.6. The fabric weight was 192 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例6)
製造例1と同様に双糸加工された長短複合紡績糸(2/60Nm)を用いて、経糸打込数220(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数205(本/10cm)、平織組織で製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、片面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは77.6であった。織物の目付けは151g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 6)
Using long and short composite spun yarn (2/60 Nm) processed in the same manner as in Production Example 1, weaving with warp driving number 220 (lines / 10 cm), weft driving number 205 (lines / 10 cm), plain weave structure did. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 77.6. The fabric weight was 151 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例7)
製造例1と同様に双糸加工された長短複合紡績糸(2/60Nm)を用いて、経糸打込数330(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数295(本/10cm)で2/2サージ組織で製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、片面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは114.1であった。織物の目付けは231g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 7)
2/2 surge with a warp driving number of 330 (lines / 10 cm) and a weft driving number of 295 (lines / 10 cm) using long and short composite spun yarns (2/60 Nm) processed in the same manner as in Production Example 1. Weaved with tissue. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 114.1. The fabric weight was 231 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例8)
繊度が3.3デシテックスで64〜102mmバイアスカットのレギュラーエステルステープル50重量%、21μのウール50重量%を使用して、番手1/60Nm,単糸撚数650T/M(Z)、撚係数85の混紡糸を紡績した。この混紡糸を単糸の撚方向と逆の方向(S撚り)に撚係数90で双糸に撚糸した後、経糸打込数222(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数207(本/10cm)の平織組織で製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、両面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは78.0であった。織物の目付けは151g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 8)
Using 50% by weight of regular ester staple with a fineness of 3.3 dtex and 64 to 102 mm bias cut, 50% by weight of 21μ wool, count 1/60 Nm, single yarn twist number 650 T / M (Z), twist factor 85 Spinning blended yarn. This blended yarn is twisted into twin yarns at a twisting factor of 90 in the direction opposite to the single yarn twist direction (S twist), and then warp number of threads 222 (lines / 10 cm), weft number of threads 207 (lines / 10 cm) Weaving with a plain weave structure. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roaster and double-sided. The cover factor of the fabric was 78.0. The fabric weight was 151 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例9)
単糸の撚係数を65、双糸の撚係数を70とし、経糸打込数224(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数204(本/10cm)とした以外は製造例8と同様にして、平織り組織の織物を製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、両面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは77.8であった。織物の目付けは149g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 9)
In the same manner as in Production Example 8, except that the single yarn twisting factor was 65, the twin yarn twisting factor was 70, the warp driving number was 224 (lines / 10 cm), and the weft driving number was 204 (lines / 10 cm), A plain weave fabric was woven. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roaster and double-sided. The cover factor of the fabric was 77.8. The fabric weight was 149 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例10)
経糸打込数295(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数244(本/10cm)とした以外は製造例8と同様にして、2/1綾組織の織物を製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、両面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは98.0であった。織物の目付けは192g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 10)
A woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure was woven in the same manner as in Production Example 8 except that the number of warp driven 295 (lines / 10 cm) and the number of weft driven 244 (lines / 10 cm) were used. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roaster and double-sided. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 98.0. The fabric weight was 192 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例11)
単糸の撚係数を65、双糸の撚係数を70とし、経糸打込数291(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数243(本/10cm)とした以外は製造例8と同様にして、2/1綾織り組織の織物を製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、両面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは97.1であった。織物の目付けは188g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 11)
In the same manner as in Production Example 8, except that the single yarn twist coefficient was 65, the twin yarn twist coefficient was 70, the number of warp threads 291 (lines / 10 cm), and the number of weft threads 243 (lines / 10 cm), A 2/1 twill weave fabric was woven. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roaster and double-sided. The cover factor of the fabric was 97.1. The fabric weight was 188 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例12)
経糸打込数332(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数308(本/10cm)とした以外は製造例8と同様にして、2/2サージ組織の織物を製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、両面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは116.4であった。織物の目付けは245g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 12)
A woven fabric having a 2/2 surge structure was woven in the same manner as in Production Example 8 except that the number of warp driven 332 (lines / 10 cm) and the number of weft driven 308 (lines / 10 cm) were used. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roaster and double-sided. The cover factor of the fabric was 116.4. The fabric weight was 245 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例13)
単糸の撚係数を65、双糸の撚係数を70とし、経糸打込数324(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数305(本/10cm)とした以外は製造例8と同様にして、2/2サージ組織の織物を製織した。次いで織物を染色整理工程に通した。整理工程では、織物をガス毛焼機に通して、両面の毛焼き処理を行った。織物のカバーファクターは114.4であった。織物の目付けは235g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 13)
In the same manner as in Production Example 8, except that the single yarn twisting factor was 65, the twin yarn twisting factor was 70, the warp threading number was 324 (lines / 10 cm), and the weft threading number was 305 (lines / 10 cm), A fabric with a 2/2 surge structure was woven. The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roaster and double-sided. The cover factor of the fabric was 114.4. The fabric weight was 235 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(製造例14)
粗糸Bとして羊毛100%で製造した1/5.0Nmの梳毛粗糸を使用し、単糸の撚係数を60とした以外は、製造例1と同様に紡績して、番手1/60Nm、羊毛67%、ポリエステル33%の長短複合紡績糸を得た。この長短複合紡績糸を2本引揃えて、単糸の撚方向と逆の方向(S撚り)に撚係数70で双糸(2/60Nm)に撚糸した後、経糸打込数285(本/10cm)、緯糸打込数285(本/10cm)として、2/2サージ組織の織物を製織した。次いで、この織物を染色整理工程に通した。染色整理工程では、ガス毛焼を行わず両面毛刈のみ行った。織物のカバーファクターは104.1であった。織物の目付は212g/mであった。織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
(Production Example 14)
Spinning was performed in the same manner as in Production Example 1 except that 1 / 5.0 Nm worsted roasted yarn manufactured with 100% wool was used as the roving yarn B, and the twist coefficient of the single yarn was set to 60, and the count was 1/60 Nm, A long and short composite spun yarn of 67% wool and 33% polyester was obtained. Two of these long and short composite spun yarns are aligned and twisted into a double yarn (2/60 Nm) with a twisting factor of 70 in the opposite direction (S twist) to the single yarn twist direction, and then the number of warp driven 285 10 cm), and weaving number of wefts 285 (lines / 10 cm), weaving fabric of 2/2 surge structure. The fabric was then passed through a dyeing and arranging process. In the dyeing and arranging step, only double-sided hair cutting was performed without performing gas hair burning. The cover factor of the fabric was 104.1. The fabric weight was 212 g / m 2 . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

本発明の長短複合紡績糸織物はユニフォームや学生服等に適した織物としての良好な風合いと柔らかさを保持しつつ、洗濯耐久性、詳しくは繰り返し洗濯後の風合い変化と毛羽立ちの少ない、また、寸法変化率の少ない高性能な織物を提供することができる。   The long and short composite spun yarn fabric of the present invention maintains good texture and softness as a fabric suitable for uniforms and school uniforms, etc., and has durability for washing, in particular, less texture change and fuzz after repeated washing, A high-performance fabric with a small dimensional change rate can be provided.

1. バックローラ
2. クレードル
3. フロントローラ
4. スネルワイヤ
5. リングとトラベラ
6. 開繊電極
7. 環状ガイド
8. パーン
9. ガイド
10. 管糸
1. Back roller Cradle 3. Front roller 4. Snell wire Ring and traveler 6. Opening electrode 7. Annular guide 8. Phan 9. Guide 10. Pipe yarn

Claims (5)

合成繊維マルチフィラメントと短繊維とが電気開繊混合により均一混合された長短複合紡績糸を2〜3本引き揃えて合撚した双糸または三子糸を少なくとも一部に用いた織物であり、該織物の片面が毛焼きされていることを特徴とする長短複合紡績糸織物。 Ri synthetic fiber multi-filament and staple fibers and are woven der using long and short composite yarn are uniformly mixed to at least a portion of ply yarns or Mitsuko yarn was twisted if aligns two or three evacuation by an electric opening mixed , long and short composite yarn fabric characterized by Rukoto one side of the fabric material has not been singeing. 織物を構成する長短複合紡績糸の合撚前の単糸の撚係数が、40〜100である請求項1に記載の長短複合紡績糸織物。 Twist coefficient of single yarns before twisting case of long and short composite yarn constituting the fabric, long and short composite yarn fabric according to claim 1 which is 40 to 100. 織物の目付け(g/m)が織物のカバーファクター(CF)の1.95〜2.05倍である請求項1または2に記載の長短複合紡績糸織物。 The long / short composite spun yarn fabric according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the fabric weight per unit area (g / m 2 ) is 1.95 to 2.05 times the fabric cover factor (CF). 請求項1乃至のいずれかに記載の長短複合紡績糸織物からなる製品。 A product comprising the long and short composite spun yarn fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3 . 製品が学生服またはユニフォームである請求項に記載の製品。 Products according to claim 4 products are school uniform or uniform.
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