JPH1077535A - Composite fiber yarn providing dry feeling - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a composite fiber yarn having a suitable bulky feeling and excellent in dry touch feeling and drape by combining each specific cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament with cellulose acetate multifilament. SOLUTION: This composite fiber yarn is obtained by combining (A) a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn obtained by copolymerizing 1-5mol% 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid component and satisfying the condition of formula I to III, and (B) a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn having >=52% acetyl content by plying, doubling, interlacing or commingling the yarns. Further, the constituting weight ratio of the component A to B is preferably 60/40 to 20/80, and the component A has preferably 2-5de fineness and a multi-fragment section having 4-8 fragment.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a composite comprising a cationic dye dyeable polyester fiber and a cellulose acetate fiber capable of giving a dry feel, a moderate swelling feeling and a beautiful color luster when processed into a woven or knitted fabric. More specifically, it relates to fiber yarns, and more specifically, effective cellulose acetate fibers constitute the surface layer by making the cationic dye-dyeable polyester fibers into high-shrink yarns, providing beautiful color luster, moderate dryness and sufficient firmness. The present invention relates to a composite fiber yarn which can be made into a woven or knitted fabric suitable for use in women's clothing such as jackets, pants, skirts, suits having a feeling of waist.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, a large number of woven or knitted fabrics using cellulosic fibers, such as cupra, rayon, polynosic, etc., have been put on the market, and their texture and feel have been well received. However, the above-mentioned cellulosic fibers are inferior in strength in comparison with synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, and have a drawback that they cannot satisfy practical strength when used alone in consideration of bottom use. In addition, the above-mentioned cellulosic fibers have poor heat shrinkage performance as compared with synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, and have the disadvantage that the bulkiness when processed into a fabric is insufficient, resulting in a paper-like fabric.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In view of the above-mentioned conventional disadvantages, the present invention provides a moderate swelling, dryness, waist,
It is intended to provide a composite fiber yarn comprising a novel polyester fiber and a cellulose acetate fiber having both resilience and drapability, and can be processed into a woven or knitted fabric having a moderate dry feeling without the sliminess peculiar to the polyester fiber. It is an object to provide a composite fiber yarn. More specifically, by making the core yarn of the composite fiber yarn a cationic dye-dyeable polyester high shrinkage multifilament, the cellulosic fiber is effectively exposed on the surface of the fiber yarn, and the characteristic characteristic of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester is This makes it possible to suppress the sliminess of synthetic fibers such as polyester by a dry touch.

[0004]

The present invention employs the following means to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, the present invention provides
A cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A obtained by copolymerizing sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component in the range of 1 mol% to 5 mol%, and a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B having an acetylation degree of 52% or more Is a composite fiber yarn having a dry texture satisfying the following formula. Shrinkage of boiling water of A yarn: 30% ≦ SHW (A) ≦ 60% (1) Formula Breaking strength of A yarn: 2.0 g / d ≦ DT (A) ≦ 4.5 g / d (2) Formula: Elongation at break of yarn A: 15% ≦ DE (A) ≦ 45% Formula (3)

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The composite fiber yarn having a dry texture according to the present invention is a dyeable cationic dye obtained by copolymerizing 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component in the range of 1 mol% to 5 mol%. It is necessary to include the polyester multifilament yarn A. When the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component exceeds 5 mol%, the strength of the yarn is extremely reduced, and practical strength cannot be maintained. Also, 5
When the content of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is less than 1 mol%, a dry touch that is characteristic of the cationic dye dyeable polyester cannot be imparted, and a slimy touch peculiar to the polyester fiber remains. It will be lost. Further, in addition to the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component, a dicarboxylic acid component such as isophthalic acid and phthalic acid may be contained as a copolymerization component.

The composite fiber yarn having a dry texture according to the present invention comprises a combination of a cationic dye-dyable polyester multifilament yarn A and a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B. The degree of acetylation is desirably 52% or more of diacetate fiber, for example, and more preferably 60% or more of triacetate fiber. The acetate fiber having a degree of acetylation of less than 52% is somewhat insecure in terms of strength in consideration of practical use, cuts and fluffs due to friction on the surface of the fabric, and turns the surface into white brown, which is preferable in appearance and quality. Hard to say.

It is desired that the boiling water shrinkage SHW of the polyester multifilament yarn A is in the range of 30% to 60%. When the boiling water shrinkage SHW is less than 30%, the cellulose acetate multifilament yarn cannot be effectively exposed to the surface layer portion, and the swelling feeling is insufficient, and the dry feeling, which is the object of the present invention, The feeling of swelling cannot be imparted to the fabric. If the boiling water shrinkage SHW exceeds 60%, the cellulose acetate multifilaments effectively cover the surface layer, but the shrinkage on the polyester side is too high and a fluffiness is generated, which is desirable in terms of quality. It does not matter.

Further, it is desired that the breaking strength DT of the polyester multifilament yarn A is 2.0 g / d or more and 4.5 g / d or less. Since the composite fiber yarn of the present invention has a practical strength maintained by the polyester multifilament yarn A, if the breaking strength DT is less than 2.0 g / d, deterioration of the twisting process passability and deterioration of the woven or knitted fabric will occur. Various inconveniences such as a decrease in tear strength are caused, which is not preferable.
Further, in a polyester multifilament yarn obtained by copolymerizing 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 1 mol% or more, it is extremely difficult to obtain a breaking strength DT exceeding 4.5 g / d. In order to improve the breaking strength DT by increasing the breaking elongation, the breaking elongation is too low, causing breakage and fuzzing, resulting in extremely poor post-process passability, such as poor twisting operation, warping operation, etc. It is not preferable.

Furthermore, polyester multifilament yarn A
Is required to be in a range of 15% or more and 45% or less. In the low elongation region where the elongation at break DE is less than 15%, single yarn cutting and fluff are generated even by applying tension during weaving and knitting, which is not a preferable range for operation. Further, if the breaking elongation DE is in a range exceeding 45%, the yarn may elongate even by applying a very slight tension, which may cause spots and shrinkage spots. is there.

[0010] The composite fiber yarn of the present invention is a combination of a cationic dye-dyable polyester multifilament yarn A and a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B. The combination method includes twisting, drawing, or entanglement. Mixed fibers can be mentioned. When weaving and knitting the composite fiber yarn as a fabric structure, it can be twisted as necessary. For the twisting, a twister generally used such as a double twister, a ring twister and an up twister can be used, but it is preferable to adjust the twisting tension so as not to excessively increase the twisting tension.

The composition ratio of the cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and the cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B constituting the composite fiber yarn is in the range of 60/40 to 20/80 by weight, more preferably 50/40. It is in the range of 50-20 / 80. If the weight fraction of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A is less than 20%, the composite fiber yarn cannot maintain practical strength and causes various problems such as a decrease in tear strength of the fabric. Not preferred. In addition, the weight fraction of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A is 6%.
When the content exceeds 0%, performance sufficient for practical use can be obtained. However, since the weight fraction of the cellulose acetate fiber is too low, an appropriate dry feeling cannot be maintained, and polyester slime is not obtained. It will be something you can feel.

The single-filament fineness of the polyester multifilament yarn A constituting the composite fiber yarn of the present invention is desirably in the range of 2 to 5 deniers. When the single yarn fineness is less than 2 denier, the tear strength of the fabric is reduced, the feeling of tension is reduced, and women's pants,
It is not preferable in consideration of applications such as skirts and jackets. If it exceeds 5 denier, the fabric tension and waist will be sufficient, but the texture will be too hard, and it will not be drapeable and will not be satisfactory for use in clothing.

In addition, the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A constituting the composite fiber yarn of the present invention A
The filament cross-section is preferably a multi-lobed cross-section yarn having 4 to 8 leaves. When the filament cross section of the polyester multifilament yarn A is three or less, the migration state of the filament is not good, and the filament is cut, which is not preferable. Also, when the multi-leaf cross section has nine or more leaves, the shape becomes substantially similar to a round cross-section, and the migration state is good. However, the degree of dispersion of reflected light by the multi-leaf cross section is not random, and It does not become rich in deep color.

The composite fiber yarn of the present invention is weaved and knitted after being subjected to appropriate twisting. In the case of weaving, an air jet room, a rapier room, a fly shuttle room, a projector room, and the like can be used. . The water jet loom is not suitable for cellulose acetate fibers in which the elongation at the time of wetting is extremely reduced because an aqueous liquid is used for weft insertion. It is necessary to consider the weaving conditions so that excessive tension is not applied to the weft and the warp at the time of weft insertion. In addition, when using cellulose acetate fiber as a warp, there are few problems such as poor opening due to broken fluff due to a small breaking strength of a single yarn, but the finished fabric has a rough surface, which is preferable as a product. In particular, in the case of sweet twist, it is desirable to perform a warp sizing treatment with an acrylic paste, PVA or the like.

After weaving and knitting the conjugate fiber yarn of the present invention, a dyeing treatment is applied. It is not preferable in terms of appearance and quality of the woven fabric that excessive tension and friction are applied to the fabric even during dyeing. For dyeing, a Zicker dyeing machine, a Wins dyeing machine, a liquid jet dyeing machine, or other commercially available dyeing machines can be used, but it is necessary to consider the above conditions and to examine the optimal conditions.

When performing the dyeing treatment, both the polyester multifilament yarn and the cellulose acetate multifilament yarn can be dyed with a disperse dye, so that they can be dyed by single bath dyeing with a disperse dye. Since the composite fiber yarn of the present invention uses a cationic dye dyeable polyester as the polyester multifilament yarn A, the polyester itself can be dyed with a cationic dye, but the cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B is contaminated with the cationic dye. Thus, dyeing with a cationic dye is not desirable from the viewpoint of color matching of the fabric.
When it is desired to dye a fabric in a different color using the composite fiber yarn of the present invention, fibers which cannot be dyed with a disperse dye such as rayon are twisted and knitted and subjected to double bath dyeing with a disperse dye and a reactive dye. It is possible.

[0017]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. The physical property values in the text and examples are measured by the following methods. In addition, needless to say, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. (Boiling water shrinkage ratio SHW) First, the sample was subjected to an initial load of 0.1 g / d using a scale measuring instrument having a frame circumference of 1.125 m and subjected to 120 times /
The skein is wound back at a speed of one minute and the number of turns is 20 times, and a skein length L ₀ (mm) is measured by applying a load 40 times the initial load. Then, the load is removed, and the sheet is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes under conditions not to prevent shrinkage, taken out, sufficiently wiped off with a blotter or a cotton cloth, and air-dried in a horizontal state. After that, load is applied again and the skein length L ₁ (mm)
Is measured. The boiling water shrinkage SHW is calculated based on the following equation, and the measured value is taken as the average value of five tests. SHW (%) = [(L ₀ −L ₁ ) / L ₀ ] × 100 (4)

(Tensile strength DT, Elongation at break DE) A Tensilon tensile tester manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.
The sample is stretched under the conditions of 00 mm and an elongation speed of 200 mm / min, and the breaking strength DT (g / d) and the elongation at break DE (%) are determined from a chart drawn at a recorder speed of 500 mm / min.

EXAMPLE 1 1.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component
The copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate copolymer is spun by a usual melt spinning method, and the obtained undrawn yarn is subjected to an offline drawing treatment to obtain a 50 denier 12
The filament was a multifilament drawn yarn having eight leaves. The boiling water shrinkage SHW of the drawn yarn is 35%, and the breaking strength D
T was 4.2 g / d and elongation at break DE was 35%. The drawn yarn is used as a polyester multifilament yarn A, and as the cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B, a drawn yarn of cellulose triacetate multifilament 100 denier 26 filaments having an acetylation degree of 62% is used. The mixture was introduced at a supply ratio, and subjected to an air entanglement treatment using a normal-temperature high-pressure air flow. The confounding treatment was performed at an air pressure of 4.0 kg / cm ² using an FG1 type interlace nozzle manufactured by Fiber Guide.

Using a double twister DT308 manufactured by Murata Machine Co., Ltd., the composite fiber yarn was twisted 1200 times / m in each of the S twist direction and the Z twist direction. After applying the actual twist, a twist set was performed for 40 minutes in an atmosphere of 80 ° C. using a vacuum heat setter. The twisted yarn is used for the warp and the weft, and the S-twist and the Z-twist are arranged in an alternate configuration, and the weaving density is 1 using an air jet loom.
Woven in a cedar tree structure of 15 lines / in and 85 lines / in.
After scouring the textile greige in a usual manner and performing a preset,
Dyeing with a disperse dye was carried out using a liquid jet dyeing machine, followed by final setting by dry heat to obtain a dyed fabric. The finished density of the dyed fabric is 133 lines / in and 96 lines / in, and it does not give a feeling of sliminess peculiar to synthetic fibers, a moderate dry feeling, a sufficient tension and a waist dress for women. The fabric was suitable for jackets and the like.

Comparative Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate, which does not copolymerize the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component, is spun by a usual melt spinning method, and the obtained undrawn yarn is subjected to off-line drawing treatment to obtain 50 denier 12 The filament was a multifilament drawn yarn having eight leaves. The drawn yarn had a shrinkage factor SHW of 31%, a breaking strength DT of 5.5 g / d and a breaking elongation DE of 32%. A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the drawn yarn was used as the polyester multifilament yarn A. The dyed fabric was finished to have a slightly slimy feeling as compared with Example 1, and was not preferable in terms of the tactile surface of the woven fabric.

Comparative Example 2 7.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component
A polyester which has been copolymerized and whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate is spun by a usual melt spinning method, and the obtained undrawn yarn is drawn off-line to obtain a 50 denier, 12 filament, 8 filament multi-filament cross section. Thread. Boiling water shrinkage SHW of the drawn yarn
Is 38%, breaking strength DT is 3.3 g / d, breaking elongation DE
Showed a value of 37%. A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the drawn yarn was used as the polyester multifilament yarn A. The dyed fabric was considerably inferior in fabric physical properties such as tear strength as compared with Example 1, and remained uneasy in terms of strength for practical use.

Comparative Example 3 1.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component
A polyester which is copolymerized and whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate is spun by a usual melt spinning method, and the obtained undrawn yarn is subjected to off-line drawing and constant-length dry heat treatment to obtain a 50 denier 12 filament 8 A leaf cross section multifilament drawn yarn was used. The drawn water has a boiling water shrinkage SHW of 8.5% and a breaking strength DT of 4.3 g.
/ D and the elongation at break DE showed a value of 36%.
A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the drawn yarn was used as the polyester multifilament yarn A. The dyed fabric is inferior in swelling feeling as compared with Example 1,
It became a so-called thin paper-like fabric.

[0024]

According to the present invention, the composite fiber yarn having a dry texture according to the present invention is constituted by a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn and a high shrinkage yarn of a cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament yarn. In addition to providing an appropriate tension, waist, and dry feeling, a woven fabric having improved mechanical strength and a texture suitable for use in women's clothing can be obtained.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A obtained by copolymerizing a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component in a range of 1 mol% to 5 mol% and an acetylation degree of 52% or more. A composite fiber yarn having a dry texture, characterized by satisfying the following formula, wherein the composite fiber yarn is obtained by combining cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B. Shrinkage of boiling water of A yarn: 30% ≦ SHW (A) ≦ 60% (1) Formula Breaking strength of A yarn: 2.0 g / d ≦ DT (A) ≦ 4.5 g / d (2) Formula: Elongation at break of yarn A: 15% ≦ DE (A) ≦ 45% Formula (3) 2. The composite fiber yarn having a dry texture according to claim 1, wherein the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and the cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B are twisted, aligned, entangled or mixed. Article. 3. The composition ratio of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A to the cellulose acetate multifilament yarn B is 60/40 to 20 by weight.
The composite fiber yarn exhibiting a dry texture according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fineness of the constituent filament of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A is 2 to 5 denier. . 4. The dry texture according to claim 1, wherein the constituent filament of the cationic dye-dyable polyester multifilament yarn A is a multi-leaf cross-section yarn having 4 to 8 leaves. Present composite fiber yarn.