JPH07252744A - Woven fabric of wool/rayon blended yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce a woven fabric maintaining touch peculiar to wool and excellent in drapeability, gentleness, visual appearance of the surface and color development. CONSTITUTION:This woven fabric of wool/rayon blended yarn is woven by using a blended yarn composed of 30 to 60wt.% wool fiber and 60 to 30wt.% rayon fiber. The wool fiber to be used has <=24mum fineness and >=60mm average fiber length and the rayon fiber to be used is tow staple having <=2 denier fineness and >=60mm average fiber length. The twist coefficient of the blended yarn to be used is 80 to 150.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a high-quality fabric woven using a wool / rayon blend yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A blended yarn of wool fiber and rayon fiber and a woven fabric using the blended yarn have been conventionally known to reduce the cost in both woolen spinning and worsted woolen spinning.

Since a card is used in the woolen spinning and a card, gil, comb, etc. are used in the worsted spinning, defects such as neps are likely to occur. Therefore, the fineness of rayon fiber is 3. 0-5.5
Denier is said to be preferred.

[0004]

However, when the fineness of the rayon fiber is 3.0 to 5.5 denier, the number of the obtained blended yarn is large, and the woven fabric woven using this is hard and heavy. Become. There is also a problem that due to the difference in dyeability between the wool fiber and the rayon fiber, the color tends to be different, and the color tends to appear remarkably.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric which is rich in drape and suppleness, has a beautiful surface and is excellent in coloring while maintaining the unique texture of wool.

[0006]

In order to achieve the above object, the invention according to claim 1 of the present invention has a weight ratio of 30 to 60%.
Of a wool fiber and a rayon fiber having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, which is woven, and has a fineness of 24 μm or less and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the rayon fiber has a fineness. Is 2 ton denier or less and the average fiber length is 60 mm or more, and the twist coefficient of the blended yarn is 80 to 150.
The invention according to claim 1 is characterized in that the woven fabric is raised, and the invention according to claim 3 is characterized in that the surface of the woven fabric is coated with a resin. Here, the toe staple is a staple formed by slicing the tow by draft cutting (the same applies hereinafter).

The invention according to claim 4 is a woven fabric which is woven by using a twisted yarn of a wool fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn and a synthetic filament, and has wrinkle-like unevenness on the surface, wherein the wool fiber is in a weight ratio. Is 30 to 60%, the fineness is 24 μm or less, the average fiber length is 60 mm or more, and the rayon fiber is a tow staple having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, a fineness of 2 denier or less, and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more. The gist is that the twist coefficient of the mixed yarn is 80 to 150, the synthetic filament is 30 to 75 denier, and the twist coefficient of the intertwisted yarn is 80 to 150. The synthetic filaments include monofilaments and multifilaments of all synthetic fibers other than nylon and polyester. The textured unevenness on the surface of the woven fabric can be obtained by subjecting the woven fabric after weaving to a shrinking process and / or a tumbling process. In addition, a general method for producing the mixed twisted yarn is as follows. The wool fiber / rayon fiber mixed yarn and the synthetic filament are combined with a yarn combiner and wound into a cheese shape, and the combined yarn is The double twister is used to give a real twist to form a twisted yarn, but the present invention is not limited to this, and a direct twisting method using a ring twister may be used.

In the invention according to claim 5, the weight ratio is 30 to 60.
% Of wool fiber and 60% to 30% by weight of rayon fiber, at least one of the single fibers of the wool / rayon mixed staple fiber bundle is a woven fabric woven using interlaced yarns. The end is in the inner layer of the produced yarn
The other end of the fiber is an air false twist spun yarn in which the other end of the fiber is wound into a real twist and wound into a real twist, and the wound single fibers are arranged in the same arrangement direction, and the wool fiber has a fineness of 24 μm. Below, with an average fiber length of 60 mm or more,
The rayon fiber has a fineness of 2 denier or less and an average fiber length of 6
The gist is that the tow staple is 0 mm or more, and the twisting coefficient of the interlaced yarn is 80 to 150. As shown in FIG. 1, the false-twisted-air spun yarn is obtained by pulling out a wool / rayon mixed staple fiber bundle (2) from a can (1), and sequentially forming a back roller pair (3) and an apron (4) middle roller pair ( 5), the front roller pair (6), the first air jet nozzle (7), the defibrating tube (8), the second air jet nozzle (9), and the pull-out roller pair (10). . Here, as shown in FIG. 1, both the first air injection nozzle (7) and the second air injection nozzle (9) are provided with thread passing holes (7a) provided at the center,
(9a) and injection holes (7b), (9b) communicating with this
And the injection holes (7b) and (9b) with respect to the yarn passing holes (7a) and (9a),
It is in a direction in contact with the outer circumference of (9a) and communicates with the yarn advancing direction at a predetermined angle. And the injection hole (7
Air ejected from b) and (9b) into the yarn passing holes (7a) and (9a) causes swirling spiral flow of air flowing in the yarn passing direction in the yarn passing holes (7a) and (9a), and
The fiber bundle and the spun yarn are positively drawn in the yarn advancing direction while rotating or turning. In addition, the swirling directions of the air swirling flows formed in the first air injecting nozzle (7) and the second air injecting nozzle (9) are opposite to each other.

Further, the invention according to claim 6 is the wool fiber /
A woven fabric woven using a twisted yarn of a rayon fiber blended yarn and a synthetic filament, wherein the blended yarn has one end of a single fiber of a wool / rayon blended staple fiber bundle in an inner layer portion of the produced yarn, The other end is an air false twist spun yarn that is output to the outer layer portion of the generated yarn and is wound into a real twist shape, and the winding single fibers are arranged in the same arrangement direction, and
The wool fiber has a weight ratio of 30 to 60%, a fineness of 24 μ or less,
The rayon fibers have an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, a weight ratio of the rayon fibers is 30 to 60%, a fineness of 2 denier or less, an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the synthetic filaments are 30 to 75 denier. The gist is that the twist coefficient of the twisted yarn is 80 to 150.

[0010]

According to the first to third aspects of the present invention, wool /
Although the weight ratio of rayon is 30 to 60%, when the rayon fiber is 30% or less, the flexibility which is a characteristic of rayon fiber is weakened and a woven fabric having a good drape property cannot be obtained. % Or more, the softness of rayon fiber is emphasized, resulting in a fabric with poor elasticity,
This is because the shrinkage of rayon fibers when wet results in a woven fabric lacking shrinkage resistance. Also, due to the difference in dyeability between wool fibers and rayon fibers (wool fibers are dyed with acid dyes, rayon fibers are dyed with alkaline dyes), when 60% or more of rayon fibers are dyed in the same color, wool is dyed. There is also the problem of severe fiber pain.

In addition, the tow staple rayon fiber is used because in carded spinning using a card in the pre-spinning step, the rayon fiber, which is finer and weaker in strength than the wool fiber, is cut in the middle of the card step to cause yarn unevenness and This is because it is not possible to obtain a high quality worsted yarn as a cause of nep, and it becomes unnecessary to go through the card process by using toe staples, and it is possible to obtain good quality by sliver mixing the toe staples in the recome or gil process. This is because the worsted yarn can be obtained.

Further, the fineness of the wool fiber is 24 μ or less,
The fineness of rayon fiber is set to 2 denier or less, because if the fineness exceeds 24 μ, the fine yarn of fine count for producing the target drape-rich fabric cannot be obtained. The average fiber length of rayon fiber is 6
If the length is less than 60 mm, the tenacity of the yarn is inferior, and the number of fluffs increases and problems such as yarn breakage and nep during weaving occur. Therefore, a fine count for making a woven fabric rich in drape This is because the thread cannot be obtained.

Further, the twist coefficient of the mixed spun yarn is set to 80 to 150. This is because if the twist coefficient is less than 80, the tying property of the yarn is poor, and problems such as weaving and fluff cause weaving problems. On the other hand, when the twisting coefficient is 150 or more, the strength and elongation of the yarn is remarkably reduced, which causes problems in weaving such as yarn breakage, and the obtained woven fabric has a hard texture and the desired drape property is obtained. There is a problem that you can not.

Further, the wool fiber is 24 μm or less,
Since the fineness of rayon fiber is less than 2 denier,
The number of fibers constituting the yarn is large, and the woven fabric has an extremely high raised density, and has a clean and smooth surface.

In the wet state, unlike the wool fiber, the rayon fiber has a characteristic that it easily shrinks. Therefore, in the present invention, the wool fiber and / or the rayon fiber are fixed with a resin to suppress the behavior.

In the invention according to claim 4, the weight ratio of wool fibers is 30 to 60%, the fineness is 24 µ or less, and the average fiber length is 60.
As described above, the tow staple having a rayon fiber weight ratio of 60 to 30%, a fineness of 2 denier or less, and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more is as described above, and the twist coefficient of the mixed yarn is 80 to 150 mm. As described above, the fact that the blended yarn and the synthetic filament having a denier of 30 to 75 are cross-twisted is in consideration of the problem of yarn strength of the worsted yarn and the processing of grain. That is, since the worsted single yarn has a low yarn strength, a twin yarn of the same single yarn is generally used in weaving, but in this case, the actual yarn count becomes thicker and the target drape property and flexibility are rich. 30 because no woven fabric can be obtained
By twisting with a synthetic filament of ˜75 denier, it is possible to obtain a yarn having a fine count and strength necessary for weaving. Also, when a plain weave made of strongly twisted wool fiber is dipped in warm water, part of the yarn set returns and the fabric surface tends to become uneven as the fiber stretches and the twist tends to return. The more the proportion of the wool fibers that the number occupies, the more prominent it appears. However, a more three-dimensional and averaged grain can be obtained by twisting synthetic filaments having a larger heat shrinkage than the wool fibers.

The twist coefficient is set to 80 to 150 because
When it is 80 or less, it is difficult to reliably restrain the fibers constituting the blended yarn, fluffing at the time of weaving, remarkable reduction in weaving efficiency, deterioration of woven fabric quality, and desired grain cannot be obtained. This is because the strength and elongation of the yarn is drastically reduced, the yarn breaks frequently during weaving, and the texture of the woven fabric is deteriorated.

As described above, the mixed air false twisted spun yarn of wool fiber and rayon fiber in the invention according to claim 5 is as described above.
Since one end of the single fiber of the wool / rayon-blended staple fiber bundle is in the inner layer of the produced yarn, and the other end is in the outer layer and has a yarn structure in which it is wound into a real twist, there is less fluffing, and Since the unevenness of the wound fiber serves as resistance and the yarn behavior after weaving is suppressed, the occurrence of pills is extremely small.

Further, the twisting coefficient of the twisted and twisted yarn is set to 80 to 150. It is difficult to reliably restrain the fibers constituting the twisted and twisted yarn when the twisted yarn is 80 or less, and fluffing during weaving, a significant reduction in weaving efficiency, and a fabric quality On the other hand, when it is 150 or more, the tenacity and elongation of the yarn sharply decreases, the yarn breaks frequently during weaving, and the texture of the woven fabric deteriorates.

Further, in the invention according to claim 6, the false twisted spun yarn of claim 5 and the synthetic filament of 30 to 75 denier are intertwisted at a twist coefficient of 80 to 150. The reason is the same as the reason for the invention according to item 4.

[0021]

EXAMPLES Examples of the present invention will be described below.

Example 1 Merino wool 6 having a fineness of 22μ and an average fiber length of 78 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
35% rayon toe staple mixed yarn, yarn count 1/46 Nm (metric count), twist number Z110
A 0 T / m wool / rayon mixed spinning ring spun yarn was obtained. Then, using this finely spun blended yarn for warp and weft, finishing density (warp / weft) 83.8 (pieces / inch) /61.2 (pieces /
Inch) plain weave is made, and it is made with wool-boiled-washed-washed-
The woven fabric of Example 1 was obtained by sequentially carrying out the steps of dry-drying-dying-dry-drying-kettle steaming-steaming.

The conditions of the dyeing step are C.I. I. Ac
id Yellow 17 is 0.084% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Red 82 is 0.018% owf,
C. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.018% ow
f, anhydrous Glauber's salt 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4%
The woven fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution containing owf and formic acid at 2.5% owf and boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 2 Using the mixed spinning refined yarn of Example 1 as warp and weft, finishing density (warp / weft) 121.2 (pieces / inch) /79.8.
A (ven / inch) Venetian fabric was prepared, and each of the steps of porcelain roasting-boiled-wash-dry-dry-dye-dry-steam-steaming was sequentially carried out to obtain the fabric of Example 2.

The conditions of the dyeing step are C.I. I. Di
0.650% ow for rect Yellow 130
f, C.I. I. Direct Red 79 is 0.004
% Owf, C.I. I. A dye liquor containing Direct Blue 81 at 0.243% owf, anhydrous Glauber's salt at 1.5% owf, and formic acid (90%) at 1.0% owf was immersed in 80 ° C. for 30 minutes.

Comparative Example 1 Merino wool having a fineness of 21.3 μm and an average fiber length of 82 mm was used, the yarn count was 1/40 Nm, and the twist number was Z900T.
/ M ring spun yarn was obtained. Then, using this spun yarn for warp and weft, the finish density (warp / weft) is 102.5 (pieces /
Inch) /77.7 (pieces / inch) Venetian fabric (5 pieces of satin) is made, and each step of porcelain roasting-boiled-washing-drying-staining-drying-steaming is sequentially carried out. Then, a woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained.

The conditions of the dyeing are C.I. I. Acid
Yellow 17 is 0.76% owf, C.I. I. A
Cid Red 82 is 0.05% owf, C.I. I. A
Cid Blue 23 is 0.06% owf, anhydrous Glauber's salt is 20.0% owf, leveling agent is 1.4% owf, and formic acid is soaked in a dyeing solution of 2.5% owf for 40 minutes. It was boiled.

Example 3 Merino Wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
35% rayon-to-staple was mixed and spun to obtain a mixed spinning spun yarn having a yarn count of 2/60 Nm, a lower twist number of Z650 T / m and an upper twist number of S900 T / m. Then, this is used for warp and weft, and finish density (warp / weft) 81.1
(Inch) /65.1 (pieces / inch) 2/2 twill fabric is made, and on this is washed-compressed-washed-washed-dry-stained-dry-raised-raised-sheared-pot steamer- Each step of steaming was sequentially carried out to obtain the woven fabric of Example 3.

The conditions of the dyeing process are C.I. I. Acid
Yellow 17 is 0.659% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Red 82 is 0.843% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.054% owf,
Anhydrous Glauber's 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4% ow
f, the fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution containing 2.5% owf of formic acid and boiled for 40 minutes.

Comparative Example 2 40% merino wool having a fineness of 22.5 μm and an average fiber length of 79 mm, a fineness of 3.0 denier and an average fiber length of 81
The yarn count of 2 /
48 Nm, lower twist number is Z650 T / m, upper twist number is S680
A T / m mixed spinning fine yarn was obtained. Then, using this as a warp and a weft, a 2/2 twill fabric having a finishing density (warp / weft) of 77.8 (pieces / inch) /64.5 (pieces / inch) is made, and is washed with The woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 was obtained by sequentially performing the steps of washing, boiling, drying, dyeing, drying, raising, shaving, kettle steaming, and steaming.

The conditions of the dyeing process are C.I. I. Acid
Yellow 17 is 0.550% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Red 82 is 0.673% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.134% owf,
Anhydrous Glauber's 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4% ow
f, after soaking the fabric in the dyeing solution containing 2.5% owf of formic acid, 4
It was boiled for 0 minutes.

Example 4 Merino Wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
35% of rayon toe staples are mixed to obtain a mixed spinning spun twin yarn having a yarn count of 2/60 Nm, a lower twist number of Z650 T / m, and an upper twist number of S900 T / m, and a fineness of 20 μ,
65% merino wool with an average fiber length of 73 mm and 35% rayon tow staple with a fineness of 1.5 denier and an average fiber length of 81 mm are mixed and the yarn count is 3/60.
Nm, number of lower twists is Z650T / m, number of upper twists is S500T /
m mixed spun triple yarn was obtained. Then, using twin yarns as warp yarns and triple yarns as weft yarns, make a 5 piece satin fabric with a finishing density (warp / weft) of 80.1 (pieces / inch) /68.9 (pieces / inch) and wash it. The woven fabric of Example 4 was obtained by sequentially carrying out the steps of roving, crimping, washing, drying, dyeing, drying, steaming, raising, shearing, and continuous steaming.

The conditions of the dyeing process are C.I. I. Acid
Yellow 17 is 0.324% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Red 82 is 0.052% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.061% owf,
Anhydrous Glauber's 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4% ow
f, the fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution containing 2.5% owf of formic acid and then boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 5 Merino Wool 6 having a fineness of 20μ and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
35% rayon-to-staple is mixed to obtain a mixed-spun twin yarn having a yarn count of 2/60 Nm, a lower twist number of Z650 T / m, and an upper twist number of S900 T / m, and also having a fineness of 20.
The yarn count is 3/48 Nm by mixing 65% merino wool 65% and 35% rayon fiber with a fineness of 1.5 denier.
A blended triplet yarn having a lower twist number of Z570 T / m and an upper twist number of S360 T / m was obtained. Then, using twin yarns as warps and triplets as wefts, finish density (warp / weft) 81.2 (pieces / inch) /
68.0 satin fabrics (6 / inch) were obtained. Then, this was processed under the same processing steps and dyeing conditions as in Example 4,
The woven fabric of Example 5 was obtained.

Comparative Example 3 Merino wool having a fineness of 23.5 μm and an average fiber length of 80 mm was mixed with 55% of rayon suf having a fineness of 3.0 denier and an average fiber length of 80 mm, and the yarn count was 2/48 N.
m, lower twist is Z600T / m, upper twist is S540T / m
A blended spinning yarn of Then, this blended spun yarn was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to obtain a five-piece satin woven fabric having a finish density (warp / weft) of 79.3 (pieces / inch) /63.6 (pieces / inch).
Then, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 3 was obtained by sequentially performing washing-compression-washing-washing-drying-staining-drying-steaming-raising-shaving-continuous steaming on this woven fabric.

The conditions of the dyeing step are C.I. I. Ac
id Yellow 17 was 0.546% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Red 82 is 0.052% owf,
C. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.013% ow
f, anhydrous Glauber's salt 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4%
The woven fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution containing owf and formic acid at 2.5% owf, and then boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 6 The same plain fabric as in Example 1 was prepared, and the same procedure as in Example 1 was used: boiled-washed-washed-boiled-dry-dyeing-hair-brush-kettle steam-resin treatment-dry-steam-dry -Drying-steaming-steaming process was sequentially performed to obtain the woven fabric of Example 6.

The dyeing conditions of the dyeing step are C.I. I.
Acid Yellow 17 is 0.435% owf,
C. I. Acid Red 82 is 0.236% ow
f, C.I. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.321%
owf, leveling agent 1.4% owf, formic acid 2.5% ow
The woven fabric was dipped in the dyeing solution of f and then boiled for 40 minutes. The resin processing is Elastron NSW (urethane resin, manufactured by Dai-ichi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 70 g / l, Impranil DLN
(Silicone resin, manufactured by Bayer) 20 g / l, Na
HCO ₃ (sodium bicarbonate) 3 g / l and CT-II (softener, manufactured by Nikko Co.) 5-10 cc / l were applied by the pad method.

Comparative Example 4 Using the fine spinning yarn of Comparative Example 1, the finishing density (warp / weft) 7
A flat fabric of 2.6 (pieces / inch) /61.2 (pieces / inch) is made, and boiled-washed-dry-stained-dry-dry-hair-brush-resin-treated-dry- The woven fabric of Comparative Example 4 was obtained by sequentially performing the steps of kettle steam-washing-drying-steaming.

The dyeing conditions for the dyeing step are C.I. I.
Acid Yellow 17 is 0.76% owf,
C. I. Acid Red 257 0.80% ow
f, C.I. I. Acid Violet 42 is 0.37
% Owf, anhydrous Glauber's salt 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4% owf, and formic acid 2.0% owf The fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution and then boiled for 40 minutes. In addition, resin processing is performed by Elastron NSW (urethane resin, manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 7
0 g / l, Implaner DLN (silicon resin, B
20 g / l, NaHCO ₃ (sodium bicarbonate) 3 g / l, CT-II (softening agent, manufactured by Nikko Co.) 5
10 cc / l was applied by the pad method.

Example 7 Merino Wool 6 having a fineness of 22 μ and an average fiber length of 78 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
35% of rayon-to-staple was mixed and spun to obtain a mixed spun spun yarn having a yarn count of 1/48 Nm and a twist number of Z570T / m. Next, the mixed spinning spun yarn and a nylon monofilament having a fineness of 30 denier were twisted at a twist number of 600 T / m to obtain a twisted yarn having a yarn count of 1/38 Nm. Then, this mixed twisted yarn was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to obtain a plain woven fabric having a finish density (warp / weft) of 75.9 (pieces / inch) /60.4 (pieces / inch). Then, this plain fabric was sequentially subjected to the steps of washing, tumbling, boiling, drying, hair roasting, dyeing, drying and continuous steaming to obtain a fabric of Example 7.

The conditions of the dyeing step are C.I. I. Ac
id Yellow 17 is 0.750% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Red 82 is 0.042% owf,
C. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.074% ow
f, anhydrous Glauber's salt 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4%
The woven fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution containing owf and formic acid of 2.5% owf, and then boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 8 Merino Wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
The yarn count is 1 / by blending rayon, toe and staples
A blended spun yarn having a yarn number of 60 Nm and a twist number of Z660 T / m was obtained.
Then, the mixed spinning refined yarn and a nylon monofilament having a fineness of 30 denier were twisted at a twist number of 800 T / m to obtain a twisted yarn having a yarn count of 1/45 Nm. Then, this mixed twisted yarn is used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to obtain a finishing density (warp / weft) of 10
A plain weave of 3.2 (lines / inch) /85.4 (lines / inch) was obtained. Then, this plain weave was sequentially subjected to the same steps as in Example 7 to obtain a plain weave of Example 8.

However, the conditions of the dyeing process are C.I. I. Dir
ect Yellow 130 is 0.6% owf, C.I.
I. Direct Red 79 has 0.04% owf,
C. I. Direct Blue 81 has 0.07% o
The plain fabric was soaked for 30 minutes in a dye liquor containing wf, 1.5% owf of anhydrous Glauber's salt and 1.0% owf of formic acid (90%).

Comparative Example 5 Merino wool having a fineness of 21.3 μm and an average fiber length of 82 mm was used, the yarn count was 1/60 Nm, and the twist number was Z660T.
/ M ring spun yarn is produced, and this spun yarn and 30 denier nylon monofilament are twisted together and the yarn count is 4
An intertwisted yarn having 7 Nm and a twist number of Z700 T / m was obtained. Using this yarn as the warp and weft, the finish density (warp / weft) is 75.
A plain woven fabric of 7 (pieces / inch) /65.1 (pieces / inch) was prepared, and then the same processing steps as in Example 7 were sequentially carried out to obtain a woven fabric of Comparative Example 5.

The conditions of the dyeing process are C.I. I. Acid
Red 257 is 0.80% owf, C.I. I. Aci
d Violet 42 is 0.37% owf, anhydrous Glauber's salt is 20.0% owf, leveling agent is 1.40% owf and formic acid is 2.0% owf.
It was boiled for a minute.

Example 9 Merino Wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm
0%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
No. 72 with a 40% rayon fiber blend and a twist index of 1
Fifty air false twist spun yarns were obtained, and after this, the number of upper twists was S1.
A twist of 100 T / m was added to give a twin yarn having a yarn count of 2/72 Nm. Then, using this twine as the warp and the weft, the finish density (warp / weft) is 92.9 (threads / inch) /58.7.
(Book / inch) 2/1 GABA woven fabric
The woven fabric of Example 9 was obtained by sequentially carrying out the steps of washing, boiling, drying, roasting, dyeing, drying, kettle steaming, and open steaming.
The twist index means that the spun yarn is attached with a constant tension between two clamps regulated at a constant interval, one clamp is rotated to loosen the spun yarn, and the spun yarn is rotated as it is even after being loosened to the maximum. When tension is continuously applied in the reverse direction and the spun yarn returns to the original length under the tension initially applied, the number of revolutions up to that time is measured, and this value is 1/2. .

However, the conditions of the dyeing process are C.I. I. Acid
Yellow 17 is 0.490% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Red 82 is 0.137% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.056% owf,
Anhydrous Glauber's 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4% ow
f, formic acid (90%) is 2.0% owf
1 GABA fabric was soaked and boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 10 The twin yarn of Example 9 was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to form a Venetian fabric having a finish density (warp / weft) of 111.5 (pieces / inch) /56.7 (pieces / inch). Then, the washing, boiling, drying, dyeing, drying, shearing, brushing and steaming steps were sequentially carried out to obtain the woven fabric of Example 10.

The conditions of the dyeing process are C.I. I. Direc
t Yellow 130 is 0.55% owf, C.I.
I. Direct Red 79 is 0.06% owf,
C. I. Direct Blue 81 is 0.10% o
wf, anhydrous Glauber's salt 1.50% owf, formic acid (90%)
The Venetian fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution of 1.0% owf at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes.

Comparative Example 6 Merino wool having a fineness of 19.7 μm and an average fiber length of 72 mm was used, the yarn count was 1/72 Nm, and the twist number was Z740T.
/ M ring spun single yarn is produced, and after twisting these two single yarns, twist with S730T / m of twist number is added, and the yarn count is 2/7.
2Nm twin yarn was used. Then, by using this twine as warp and weft, a 5 piece satin woven fabric having a finishing density (warp / weft) of 111.5 (pieces / inch) /68.3 (pieces / inch) was prepared. Each of the steps of-drying-hair roasting-dying-drying-steaming-steaming was sequentially carried out to obtain a woven fabric of Comparative Example 6.

The dyeing conditions for the dyeing step are C.I. I.
Acid Yellow 17 is 0.43% owf,
C. I. Acid Red 82 is 0.23% owf,
C. I. Acid Blue 23 is 0.32% ow
f, anhydrous Glauber's salt 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.40
% Owf and formic acid (90%) were 2.50% owf, and the satin fabric was dipped in the dyeing solution and boiled for 40 minutes.

Example 11 Merino Wool 6 having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm
5%, fineness 1.5 denier, average fiber length 81 mm
No. 48 with a 35% rayon fiber blend and a twist index of 1
50 air false twisted spun yarns (Z direction false twisted yarns) were obtained, and after this yarn and a nylon filament with a fineness of 30 denier were combined, a twist of 800 T / m was obtained for the upper twist number (Z direction), and the yarn count was increased. It was a 2/74 Nm twin yarn. Next, this twine is used for warp and weft, and the finish density (warp / weft) is 74.3
(Inch) /59.5 (pieces / inch) plain weave, and the steps of washing-tumbler-tumbler-boiled-drying-hair roasting-dyeing-dry-steaming-steaming are carried out in this order to obtain Example 11 We obtained

The conditions of the dyeing process are C.I. I. Acid
Yellow 17 is 0.760% owf, C.I. I. A
Cid Red 82 was 0.042% owf, C.I. I.
Acid Blue 23 is 0.074% owf, anhydrous Glauber's salt is 20.0% owf, leveling agent is 1.4% owf,
The plain fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution containing 2.5% owf of formic acid (90%) and boiled for 40 minutes.

Comparative Example 7 Using merino wool having a fineness of 20 μm and an average fiber length of 73 mm, a single yarn having a count of 54 and a lower twist number (Z direction) of 620 T / m was obtained, and a nylon filament having a fineness of 50 denier was obtained. After compounding, a twist of 700 T / m in the number of upper twists (Z direction) was added to obtain a single yarn having a yarn count of 38 Nm. This single yarn was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to form a plain woven fabric having a finish density (warp / weft) of 72.6 (pieces / inch) /63.1 (pieces / inch). Then, this was washed-Tumbler-Boiled-Dry-Hairy-Staining-
The woven fabric of Comparative Example 7 was obtained by sequentially performing the steps of dry-rolling and continuous steaming.

The conditions of the dyeing step are C.I. I. Ac
id Yellow 17 is 0.72% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Red 82 is 0.04% owf, C.I.
I. Acid Blue 23 0.17% owf, anhydrous Glauber's salt 20.0% owf, leveling agent 1.4% ow
f, the plain fabric was dipped in a dyeing solution containing 1.0% owf of formic acid (90%) and boiled for 40 minutes.

Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 described above
The fabric was evaluated for drape, surface beauty, and color development. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0058]

[Table 1]

Regarding the drapability, JIS L 1
According to the 096 G method, the beauty of the surface is JIS
The pilling test of the L 1076 A method and the color fastness were evaluated by the dyeing fastness test of the JIS L 0844 A method. In the drape property test, the smaller the value, the more the drape property, the larger the pilling test, the higher the anti-pilling property, and the larger the dye fastness test, the higher the dye fastness.

As shown in Table 1, each of the examples is superior to the comparative example in each item of drape property, anti-pilling property and dye fastness.

[0061]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain various woven fabrics which are rich in drape and suppleness, have a beautiful surface and are excellent in color development while maintaining the unique texture of wool.

According to the invention of claim 2, since the fineness of the rayon fiber is set to 2 denier or less, the number of fibers constituting the yarn is increased as compared with the case of 100% wool, and thus the raised density is excellent. You can get the product. or,
It is necessary to tighten the weaving standard more than general fabrics in order to prevent the fabric from being damaged and the strength of the fabric being deteriorated, so it is inevitable that the fabric will be heavy and lack drapeability. I have no choice. However, according to the present invention, since the number of constituent fibers occupied in one yarn is more than 100% of wool, the fabric strength deterioration in the raising process is small, and the unit weight can be lightened accordingly.
At the same time, the drape characteristic of rayon has a great influence on the texture and has an excellent punch feeling.

In the resin processing for the purpose of obtaining a washable product, the target product is wool fiber 10
In the case of 0% woven fabric, it is necessary to increase the resin concentration in order to prevent the water repellency of wool fibers and the relaxation shrinkage and felt shrinkage that occur during washing. According to the invention of claim 3, since the wool fiber having water repellency is surrounded by a large number of hydrophilic rayon fibers, a low concentration resin is obtained. In addition to achieving the purpose, it is possible to prevent the adverse effect that the fabric becomes stiff.

In a woven fabric of 100% wool fiber, if the yarn is strongly twisted, it is easy to give a grainy feeling, but the wool has a hygral expansion (a phenomenon in which the woven fabric dimension increases due to an increase in the moisture content of the woven fabric and contracts due to a decrease). Because it is easy to wake up,
Claim 4 which has the drawback that the texture will change significantly.
According to the invention, since the rayon fiber does not have a property of swelling by moisture absorption, the rayon fiber suppresses the hygral expansion of the wool fiber, and a textured fabric having a stable feeling can be obtained.

Further, according to the inventions of claims 5 and 6, since the air false twist spun yarn in which the actual twist is not contained in the core portion of the yarn is used, the single yarn or the combined yarn is made into the strong twist yarn. However, the repulsive force of the thread is weak, and the woven fabric using this has excellent drapeability, and because of the structure of the yarn, it has no long fluff and has short and dense fluff, making it a soft-touch woven fabric. Become.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram showing an outline of an apparatus for producing false-twisted air spun yarn.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 cans 2 staple fiber bundle 3 back roller pair 4 apron 5 middle roller pair 6 front roller pair 7 first air injection nozzle 8 defibration tube 9 second air injection nozzle 10 extraction roller pair

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric woven using a mixed yarn of a wool fiber having a weight ratio of 30 to 60% and a rayon fiber having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, wherein the wool fiber has a fineness of 24 μm or less and an average fiber length. Is 60m
m / m, the rayon fiber is a tow staple having a fineness of 2 denier or less and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the blended yarn has a twist coefficient of 80 to 150. 2. The wool / rayon blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric is raised. 3. The wool / rayon blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein the surface of the fabric is coated with a resin. 4. A woven fabric which is woven using a twisted yarn of a wool fiber / rayon fiber blended yarn and a synthetic filament, and has wrinkle-like unevenness on the surface, wherein the wool fiber has a weight ratio of 30 to 60%, The rayon fiber has a fineness of 24 μm or less and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more. The rayon fiber is a tow staple having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, a fineness of 2 denier or less, and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more. A wool / rayon mixed-spun fabric having a coefficient of 80 to 150, the synthetic filaments of 30 to 75 denier, and the twisting coefficient of the mixed twisted yarn of 80 to 150. 5. A woven fabric woven using a twisted yarn containing at least a mixed yarn of a wool fiber having a weight ratio of 30 to 60% and a rayon fiber having a weight ratio of 60 to 30%, wherein the mixed yarn is wool / One end of the single fiber of the rayon-blended staple fiber bundle is in the generated yarn inner layer portion, and the other end of the fiber is exposed in the generated yarn outer layer portion and wound into a real twist,
An air false twist spun yarn in which the winding single fibers are arranged in the same arrangement direction, and the wool fiber has a fineness of 24 μ or less and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the rayon fiber has a fineness of 2 denier or less, an average. A wool / rayon mixed-spun fabric, which is a tow staple having a fiber length of 60 mm or more, and in which the twisting coefficient of the twisted yarn is 80 to 150. 6. A woven fabric woven using a mixed twisted yarn of a wool fiber / rayon fiber mixed yarn and a synthetic filament, wherein the mixed yarn is one yarn of a single fiber of a wool / rayon mixed staple fiber bundle. In the inner layer portion, the other end of the fiber comes out to the generated yarn outer layer portion and is wound into a real twist shape,
An air false twist spun yarn in which the winding single fibers are arranged in the same arrangement direction, and the wool fiber has a weight ratio of 30 to 30.
60%, a fineness of 24 μ or less, an average fiber length of 60 mm or more, and the rayon fibers have a weight ratio of 30 to 60%,
Tows with a fineness of 2 denier or less and an average fiber length of 60 mm or more
A wool / rayon mixed-spun fabric, which is a staple, the synthetic filament is 30 to 75 denier, and the twisting coefficient of the interlaced yarn is 80 to 150.