JP4418281B2 - Polyamide blended yarn and woven / knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a polyamide blended yarn and a woven or knitted fabric that can provide a high-quality woven or knitted fabric having a soft feeling, a light weight feeling, excellent spun touch with firmness, and a surface effect due to a dyeing and coloring difference.

  Conventionally, woven and knitted fabrics using polyamide processed yarns have been widely used for clothing materials because of their supple texture, and various processed yarns have been developed to meet consumer needs. However, the suppleness and sliminess that are the characteristics of nylon have been damaged, and no knitted or knitted fabric that can express a high texture in a span tone has yet been found, and the current situation is that it cannot meet the consumer needs in this field.

  One method for imparting a spanned texture is so-called taslan processing. The yarn obtained by this taslan processing can express the spanned texture by the loop fluff, but the crispness due to the apparent loop and the hardness due to the lack of elasticity hinder the expression of high texture, and the loop It has been difficult to use as a warp of a woven fabric because it causes a decrease in unwinding property and weaving property.

  Various processed yarns that can solve this problem and express a high-quality woven or knitted fabric have been proposed. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a composite blend having substantially no loop and no slack made of nylon non-crimped yarn and nylon crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.7 dtex or more and a cross-sectional deformation of 1.5 or less. As a composite yarn, a nylon composite mixed yarn in which the non-crimped yarn is mainly located in the core and the crimped yarn is located in the sheath by heat treatment has been proposed.

  The woven or knitted fabric using this nylon composite blended yarn has a smooth texture with no roughness, a voluminous feel and a calm surface feeling, but the cross-sectional deformation of the single filament constituting the crimped yarn is 1.5. Therefore, when the filament stiffness against external force is high and the single yarn fineness (filament diameter) is increased, the texture tends to become coarse and hard, which may hinder the expression of high texture. Further, if the single yarn fineness is reduced in order to reduce the rigidity of the filament with respect to an external force, there has been a problem that it is difficult to obtain the desired spanned texture. Furthermore, since the degree of cross-sectional deformation is 1.5 or less, the number of false twists cannot be increased, and as a result, there is a problem that crimping tends to be poor.

  Next, Patent Document 2 discloses a mixed yarn having substantially no loop and slack made of nylon multifilament false-twisted crimped yarn and nylon multifilament non-crimped yarn, wherein the non-crimped yarn and false twisted yarn The difference in the dyeing L value from the crimped yarn is 1.0 or less, and the blended yarn is heat-treated so that the non-crimped yarn is mainly located in the core portion and the false twisted crimped yarn is located in the sheath portion. Nylon composite blended yarn has been proposed.

  A woven or knitted fabric using this nylon composite blended yarn has no irritation on the surface, and a mild and high quality woven or knitted fabric can be obtained, but it is dyed on the two yarns constituting the nylon composite blended yarn. There is a problem that the surface effect of the knitted or knitted fabric may be poor because there is no difference in dressing, and there is a problem that it is difficult to express the desired texture because the yarns that can be used to limit the dyeing difference are limited. .

  Patent Document 3 discloses a fiber having a hollow ratio of 30% or more, a fine hole group on the fiber surface, and at least a part of the fine hole group communicating from the hollow part to the fiber surface. Hollow polyamide fibers have been proposed.

  This microporous hollow polyamide fiber has excellent moisture absorption and desorption due to a high hollowness ratio of 30% or more and a group of micropores communicating from the fiber surface to the hollow portion, but it has a poor surface feeling because it is used alone. In addition, since it is difficult to form a fine space in an actual woven or knitted fabric, it is difficult to obtain a high-quality woven or knitted fabric because it is easily lacking in lightness and softness.

  Further, Patent Document 4 discloses a nylon multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.2 denier or higher and a boiling water shrinkage of 11 to 19%, and a single yarn fineness of 2 denier or higher and a boiling water shrinkage of 4 to 10%. %, Hollow ratio 5-30%, irregularity 1.5-3.5 well-shaped nylon hollow multifilament yarns are mixed and entangled to form a single fiber on the yarn surface There is a method for producing a nylon lightweight woven fabric in which a loop of 0.5 mm or more forms a yarn having a smooth yarn surface of 5 pieces / m or less, a woven fabric is woven using the yarn, and then hydrothermal treatment is performed. Are listed.

The yarn obtained by this manufacturing method can obtain a feeling of dryness and sharpness due to the well-shaped cross-sectional shape of the well-shaped hollow fiber as well as the bulging feeling, but the hollowness can be reduced by making the well-shaped cross-section. It is somewhat difficult to make it 30% or more, and it cannot be said that the lightness is still sufficient, and there is also a problem that the well-shaped protrusions are easily fibrillated and the wear resistance of the woven or knitted fabric tends to deteriorate.
JP 2002-309457 A JP 2002-363830 A JP-A-9-279476 JP-A-9-67736

  The present invention eliminates the above-mentioned drawbacks and can be used as a warp of a woven fabric, has a soft texture, a light feeling, a high texture due to an excellent span tone texture without roughness, and a surface effect of a woven or knitted fabric due to a dyeing and coloring difference It is a technical problem to provide a polyamide mixed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric which are woven or knitted fabric having both.

The inventors of the present invention have arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems. That is, the present invention has the following configuration.
(1) it has a micropore forming ability leading to the hollow portion in the hollow portion-forming ability and the fiber surface by alkali treatment, and a polyamide multifilament yarn A having a false twisting crimp, and a polyamide multifilament non crimped yarn B a combined filament yarn was formed by commingled said polyamide multifilament yarn a is have a hollow part forming ability single yarn fineness of not less than 3.5 dtex, and a hollow ratio of 30% or more, further dyeing A polyamide blended yarn characterized in that the yarn A is lighter in gray scale than the yarn B later by a grade of 2.0 or more .
(2) above (1) Symbol placement polyamide combined filament yarn fineness is less than 1.5dtex polyamide multifilament non crimped yarn B.
( 3 ) The polyamide mixed yarn according to (1) or (2), wherein the mass reduction rate after elution of the polyamide multifilament yarn A is 40% or more.
( 4 ) The polyamide mixed yarn according to any one of (1) to ( 3 ), wherein the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the polyamide multifilament yarn A after alkali treatment is 1.5 or more.
( 5 ) A woven or knitted fabric using 50% by mass or more of the polyamide mixed yarn according to any one of (1) to ( 4 ) above, wherein the polyamide multifilament yarn A constituting the woven / knitted fabric is subjected to alkali treatment. A polyamide woven or knitted fabric characterized by forming a hollow portion.

  If the polyamide blended yarn of the present invention is knitted and knitted and dyed or treated with alkali, it is light and has a soft, spanned texture and soft feel, and a delicate and natural tone surface is expressed. It becomes possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  The polyamide blended yarn of the present invention is a polyamide multifilament yarn A (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as “yarn A”) and a polyamide multifilament non-crimped yarn B (hereinafter abbreviated as “yarn B”). Is a mixed yarn. First, the polyamide multifilament yarn A has a hollow portion-forming ability such that the hollow ratio is 30% or more, preferably 35% or more by alkali treatment, and the single yarn fineness is 3.5 dtex or more, preferably 4.0 dtex or more. This is a thread. In addition, the yarn A preferably has false twist crimp. In addition, having a hollow part formation ability by an alkali treatment means that a hollow part is formed in the single filament of the thread | yarn A by the elution process by the alkali mentioned later.

  Since the hollow portion with a hollow ratio of 30% or more is formed by alkali treatment, the woven or knitted fabric expresses not only lightness but also a sense of tension with a single yarn fineness (filament diameter). However, since the skin part constituting the hollow fiber becomes very thin, the rigidity of the filament with respect to the bending external force is lowered, and the soft and high quality expression is not hindered. In addition, due to the high hollowness ratio, even when the single yarn fineness is large, it becomes lighter when dyed, and when it is mixed with yarn B, which will be described later, it exhibits a natural tone, and the surface feel is also high-class. A feeling can be expressed.

  In addition, when the yarn A has false twist crimp, combined with cross-sectional deformation due to false twist, the rigidity of the filament against bending external force is further reduced, and soft and high quality expression is emphasized. Can do. In this case, the surface effect is further emphasized because the lightening proceeds due to the high hollow ratio, the progress of orientation due to stretch false twist, and the synergistic effect of cross-sectional deformation. In the present invention, the color difference between the yarn A and the yarn B is not particularly limited, but the gray scale is preferably 1.0 grade difference or more, more preferably 1.5 grade difference or more, and 2.0 grade. More than the difference is more preferable.

  Furthermore, when the cross-sectional deformation degree is 1.5 or more, the rigidity is further lowered for the above-described reason, and when the yarn A has false twist crimp, a volume feeling is imparted by false twisted false twist yarn. can do.

  In addition, when the hollow ratio is excessive, the spinning operability is deteriorated and the hollow portion is apt to be crushed in the knitted or knitted fabric. Therefore, the upper limit is preferably about 70%. Further, if the single yarn fineness is excessive, the texture tends to become coarse and hard, and it is preferable to set 10 dtex as the upper limit. Furthermore, when the degree of cross-sectional deformation is excessive, the hollow portion is liable to be crushed, so that it is preferably 4.0 or less.

  As the above-described yarn A, a core-sheath structure fiber in which an easily soluble component that can be eluted with respect to alkali, for example, an alkali-soluble polyester, is disposed in the core and the easily soluble component and the polyamide component are blended in the sheath. It is preferable. At this time, the ratio of the easily soluble component of the core part and the sheath part may be adjusted so that the hollow ratio of the core part is 30% or more and the mass reduction rate after elution is 40% or more. When the ratio is high, the easily soluble component of the core part is likely to be eluted, but the ratio of the easily soluble component of the sheath part is preferably 5 to 30% because it is weak against friction with the woven or knitted fabric. By exhibiting such a form, fine pores that lead to the hollow portion are formed on the fiber surface after elution, so that the water diffusibility is excellent. If the mass reduction rate exceeds 80%, the yarn A after elution tends to cause a decrease in strength, so the mass reduction rate is more preferably 80% or less.

  Examples of the alkali-soluble polyester component include copolymer polyesters in which ethylene terephthalate is the main repeating unit and is copolymerized with isophthalic acid, polyalkylene glycol, alkali metal sulfoisophthalate, or the like.

  The polyamide multifilament non-crimped yarn B (yarn B) that forms the polyamide blended yarn having the lightness of the present invention together with the yarn A needs to be a so-called flat yarn without crimps, The yarn fineness is preferably 1.5 dtex or less, and more preferably 1.2 dtex or less. With such a configuration, it is possible to effectively express a soft feeling, but when the yarn A has false twist crimp, a subtle difference in surface feeling due to a difference in cross-sectional shape is expressed. In addition, by forming a fine space, combined with the lightness of the yarn A after elution, it is possible to obtain a high-quality woven or knitted fabric that is delicate, lightweight, and soft. Moreover, when the single yarn fineness is small, even if the single yarn fineness of the yarn A is large, it is easy to mix, and the above-described natural tone expression can be achieved, and a high quality can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. When the single yarn fineness exceeds 1.5 dtex, the soft feeling of the woven or knitted fabric cannot be expressed, the high texture is hindered, and the mixed fiber state with the yarn A also decreases, resulting in poor confounding and the woven or knitted fabric. In particular, streaky defects are likely to occur. However, if the single yarn fineness is too small, the knitted or knitted fabric is insufficiently stiff, so the lower limit is preferably about 0.1 dtex.

  In the present invention, the polyamide component that forms the yarn A and the yarn B is preferably a homopolymer such as nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 46, nylon 11, nylon 12, or a copolymer or mixture mainly composed of these. However, it is not limited to these. Further, it contains additives such as matting agents, antistatic agents, antibacterial agents, deodorants, pigments, flame retardants, light stabilizers, heat stabilizers, antioxidants, etc., as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. You may have done.

  The mixed fiber of the yarn A and the yarn B may be either an interlace type, a taslan type, or the like, but it is preferable in terms of process passability to appropriately select processing conditions so that loops and sagging do not appear greatly. . Further, when the interlace type is adopted, the number of entanglements is not particularly limited, but the number may be increased if it is desired to make the sensation fine, and the number may be decreased if it is desired to be rough. 30 / m or more and 150 / m or less is preferable from the viewpoint of weaving property, and 50 / m or more and 120 / m or less is more preferable.

  Next, an example of a method for producing the polyamide mixed yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

  FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of a method for producing a polyamide mixed yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the supply yarn 1 is pulled out from the spool 2, passes through the guide 3, and is supplied as a yarn A from the feed roller 4 to the fluid processing nozzle 8.

  On the other hand, the supply yarn 11 is pulled out from the spool 12, passes through the guide 13, and is supplied from the feed roller 14 to the fluid processing nozzle 8 as a non-crimp yarn B. Thereafter, the yarn A and the yarn B are mixed with the roller 9 by the fluid treatment nozzle 8 to form the nylon composite mixed yarn of the present invention, and are wound around the package 10. At this time, the yarn A and the yarn B may be fed from the same roller.

  Next, FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram showing another example of the production method of the polyamide mixed yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 2, the supply yarn 1 is pulled out from the spool 2, passes through the guide 3, is stretched false twisted by the heater 5 and the twisting device 6 between the feed roller 4 and the delivery roller 7, and has false twisting. Yarn A.

  On the other hand, the supply yarn 11 is pulled out from the spool 12, passes through the guide 13, and is supplied from the feed roller 14 to the fluid processing nozzle 8 as a non-crimp yarn B. Thereafter, the yarn A and the yarn B are mixed between the rollers 9 by the fluid treatment nozzle 8 to become the nylon composite mixed yarn of the present invention, and are wound around the package 10.

In addition, any of an interlace type, a taslan type, or the like may be used as the fluid treatment nozzle, and it is preferable to appropriately select the processing conditions so that loops and sags do not appear greatly from the viewpoint of process passability.
In the polyamide mixed yarn of the present invention, the yarn A can form a hollow portion having a high hollow ratio by alkali treatment, so that the woven or knitted fabric has not only a feeling of lightness but also the elasticity of the single yarn fineness (filament diameter). While expressing a certain span feeling, the portion of the skin constituting the hollow fiber becomes very thin, so that the rigidity of the filament against the external force of bending is lowered, and soft and high quality expression is not hindered.

  Furthermore, when the yarn A is a false twisted crimped yarn, the rigidity is further reduced due to the cross-sectional deformation due to false twist, and the soft and high texture can be further emphasized. Further, when the cross-sectional deformation degree is 1.5 or more, the rigidity is further lowered and a volume feeling by the high crimped yarn can be given.

  Furthermore, since the yarn B is a non-crimped yarn and preferably has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or less, a soft feeling can be effectively expressed and the yarn A has false twist crimp The subtle difference in surface feeling due to the difference in cross-sectional shape is expressed, and by forming a fine space, coupled with the lightness of the thread A after elution, a delicate and light feeling, soft A high-quality woven or knitted fabric with a rich feeling can be obtained.

  Further, since the yarn A has a high hollowness ratio, the yarn A becomes lighter when dyed in spite of a large single yarn fineness, and when it is mixed with the yarn B, it exhibits a natural tone, In terms of feeling, it is possible to express luxury. Further, when the yarn A has false twist crimp, in addition to the high hollow ratio, the lightening proceeds due to the synergistic effect of orientation and cross-sectional deformation due to stretch false twist. Is further emphasized.

  Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples.

Each physical property value was evaluated as follows.
<Dyeing prescription>
・ Scouring Scouring Agent: Sunmol FL (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1 g / liter Temperature × Time: 80 ° C. × 20 minutes ・ Elution Caustic soda: 40 g / liter Temperature × Time: 98 ° C. × 30 minutes Bath ratio: 1 : 50
-Dye Disperse dye: kayanol blue N2G (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) 2% o. m. f.
Auxiliary: Acetic acid 0.2 ml / liter Temperature x time: 100 ° C x 30 minutes Bath ratio: 1:50
<Cross-sectional deformation of yarn A>
Take a cross-sectional photograph of the mixed yarn unraveled from the woven or knitted fabric after elution with alkali, measure the diameter R0 of the circumscribed circle and the diameter R1 of the inscribed circle in the single filament of the yarn A, The degree R is calculated. Measurement was performed at 10 randomly selected locations, and the average value was displayed.

R = R0 / R1
<Hollow rate of yarn A (%)>
Taking a cross-sectional photograph of the mixed yarn unraveled from the woven or knitted fabric after elution with alkali, and by image processing, the ratio of the cross-sectional area of the hollow portion of the core portion to the cross-sectional area of the single yarn of the yarn A It was calculated by the following formula. Measurement was performed at 10 randomly selected locations, and the average value was displayed.

Hr (%) = Sa / Sf × 100
Hr: Hollow ratio (%)
Sf: total cross-sectional area of a single filament including a hollow portion (cm ² )
Sa: Cross-sectional area of the hollow part of the core part (cm ² )
<Mass reduction rate of yarn A (%)>
The blended yarn is knitted, and the mass Fb (g) before the elution treatment and the mass Fa (g) after the elution treatment are measured. From the mass ratio Wa of the yarn A in the blended yarn, the following calculation formula is used. The mass reduction rate Wr (%) is calculated.

Wr (%) = (Fb−Fa) × 100 / (Fb × Wa)
<Color difference between yarn A and yarn B>
The surface of the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing was observed with the naked eye, and the color difference between the yarn A and the yarn B was determined on a gray scale.
( Comparative Example 4 )
Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 13.3% by mass of ethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 6000 as an alkali-soluble polyester for the core, and a relative viscosity of 2 as a polyamide for the sheath .6 Nylon 6, core-sheath composite mass ratio is 45/55, mixed mass ratio of easily soluble alkali polyester and polyamide in the sheath is 15/85, and core-sheath composite of 90 dtex16f (single yarn fineness 5.63 dtex) A fiber (yarn A) was obtained.

  On the other hand, as the yarn B, 100 dtex 96f (single yarn fineness 1.04 dtex) obtained by spinning the same nylon 6 as above was obtained.

  Using these fibers, yarn processing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 in accordance with the process shown in FIG. 1 to obtain a polyamide mixed yarn of 198 dtex 112f. At this time, the single yarn fineness of the yarn A was 5.63 dtex.

  Using these mixed yarns, weaving a fabric with a tasser structure at a warp density of 94 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 65 / 2.54 cm in a water jet loom, dyeing and finishing were performed. The later fabrics were high-quality fabrics that had a soft, light-weight, voluminous and firm span texture, as well as a natural and delicate feel.

  Table 1 shows the processing conditions of the blended yarn and the physical properties of the yarn A after the elution treatment.

(Example 1 )
The raw yarn of Comparative Example 4 was used, and the yarn was processed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the process shown in FIG. 2 to obtain a 170 dtex 112f polyamide mixed yarn. At this time, the single yarn fineness of the yarn A was 4.08 dtex.

Using these mixed yarns, weaving a fabric with a tasser structure at a warp density of 101 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 70 / 2.54 cm in a water jet loom, and dyeing and finishing were performed. The later fabrics were high-quality fabrics that had a soft, light-weight, voluminous and firm span texture, as well as a natural and delicate feel.
(Example 2 )
In the same manner as in Example 1 , the core-sheath composite mass ratio is 50/50, the mixed mass ratio of the alkali-soluble polyester and polyamide in the sheath is 15/85, and the core-sheath composite fiber is 90 dtex16f (single yarn fineness 5.63 dtex). Got. On the other hand, 78 dtex 68f (single yarn fineness 1.15 dtex) obtained by spinning the same nylon 6 as above was obtained as the yarn B.

  Using these fibers, yarn processing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 in accordance with the process shown in FIG. 2 to obtain a polyamide blended yarn of 149 dtex84f. At this time, the single yarn fineness of the yarn A was 4.08 dtex.

Using these mixed yarns, weaving a fabric with a tasser structure at a warp density of 94 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 65 / 2.54 cm in a water jet loom, dyeing and finishing were performed. The later woven fabric was a high-quality woven fabric having a lighter feeling than Comparative Example 4 , and having a soft and voluminous feel and an excellent spanned texture with a natural and delicate feel.
(Comparative Example 1)
Example 1 except that the core-sheath composite mass ratio is 30/70, the mixture mass ratio of the alkali-soluble polyester and polyamide in the sheath part is 15/85, and a core-sheath composite fiber of 90 dtex16f (single yarn fineness 5.63 dtex) is obtained. Yarn processing was performed in the same manner as in to obtain a 170 dtex 112f polyamide mixed yarn. At this time, the single yarn fineness of the yarn A was 4.08 dtex.

Using this blended yarn, a woven fabric was woven and dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1. However, since the hollow ratio of the thread A was less than 30%, the woven fabric after dyeing was lightweight. It was somewhat lacking in feeling and also lacked soft feeling due to the thick and high rigidity of the thread A skin.
(Comparative Example 2)
Yarn processing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 90 dtex32f (single yarn fineness: 2.81 dtex) was obtained as the core-sheath conjugate fiber to obtain a 171 dtex128f polyamide mixed yarn. At this time, the single yarn fineness of the yarn A was 2.08 dtex.

Using this mixed yarn, a woven fabric was woven and dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 , but the dyed fabric was slightly lacking in lightness and the single yarn fineness of the yarn A. Is small and lacks elasticity and has a poor span tone texture.
(Comparative Example 3)
The two types of raw yarns used in Example 1 were aligned and false twisted under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a 150 dtex 112f polyamide mixed yarn. At this time, the single yarn fineness of the yarn A was 4.29 dtex.

Using this blended yarn, weaving, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 2. However, the dyed fabric emphasized the feeling of wiping only with crimped yarn and lacked high texture. At the same time, the shape retention was poor.

It is a schematic process drawing which shows the example of a manufacturing method of the polyamide mixed yarn of this invention. It is a schematic process drawing which shows the other example of a manufacturing method of the polyamide mixed yarn of this invention.

Explanation of symbols

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1, 11 Supply yarn 2, 12 Spool 3, 13 Guide 4, 14 Feed roller 5 Heater 6 Twisting device 7 Delivery roller 8 Fluid processing nozzle 9 Roller
10 packages

Claims (5)

Have a micropore forming ability leading to the hollow portion in the hollow portion-forming ability and the fiber surface by alkali treatment, and a polyamide multifilament yarn A having a false twisting crimp, and a polyamide multifilament non crimped yarn B is commingled a combined filament yarn comprising Te, the polyamide multifilament yarn a is single fiber fineness of 3.5dtex or more and the hollow ratio have a hollow part forming ability of 30% or more, yarn a further after dyeing Is a polyamide blend yarn characterized by being lighter than the yarn B in gray scale by 2.0 grade or more . Polyamide combined filament yarn according to claim 1 Symbol placement fineness is below 1.5dtex polyamide multifilament non crimped yarn B. The polyamide mixed yarn according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein a mass reduction rate after elution of the polyamide multifilament yarn A is 40% or more. The polyamide mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the polyamide multifilament yarn A has a cross-sectional deformation degree of 1.5 or more after alkali treatment. A woven or knitted fabric using 50% by mass or more of the polyamide mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 , wherein the polyamide multifilament yarn A constituting the woven or knitted fabric forms a hollow portion by alkali treatment. A polyamide woven or knitted fabric characterized by