JP2003013334A - Stretchable spun yarn, woven or knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a spun yarn and a woven or a knitted fabric easily carrying out dyeing processing, having an appearance without unevenness of crepes and assuming a bulky and soft stretchable woven or knitted fabric and the woven or knitted fabric. SOLUTION: This composite spun yarn (a fine spun twisted union yarn, a core yarn or a twisted union yarn) of fibers which are subjected to mix spinning and contain high-shrinkable polyester staple fibers having >=25% boiling water shrinkage (SHW) with a stretchable filament yarn such as a polyurethane yarn is obtained. The woven or knitted fabric is composed of at least the composite spun yarn and then subjected to dyeing processing without setting a gray fabric.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable spun yarn that becomes bulky after heat treatment, and a woven or knitted fabric made of these spun yarns, which has a soft feel and a warm feeling. Furthermore, during dyeing processing, it is easy to control grain unevenness and presents a uniform fabric appearance.
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a stretchable woven or knitted fabric suitable for bulky innerwear, shirts, outerwear, interlinings, etc., and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Covering yarns of polyurethane yarns and multifilament yarns such as nylon and polyester, as yarns containing elastic long fibers, air covering yarns by air entanglement treatment, aligned twist yarns, and short fibers such as cotton in the sheath. Using
Commonly used are core yarns using polyurethane yarns as core yarns, ply yarns in which spun yarns and polyurethane yarns are aligned to form a plied yarn. These are socks, panty horses,
Inner wear, swimwear, ski wear, athletic wear, aerobics, outerwear, taping,
Widely used for interlining.

As a thread having a high expansion / contraction rate, a latent type crimpable expansion thread of a conjugate type such as a bonded type or an eccentric type has been known in recent years, and can be used for dresses, jackets, pants, shirts, blouses and the like having excellent drapeability. It is mainly used for outerwear. These have better elasticity than polyurethane threads, but generally lack softness, bulkiness, and bulge.

Core yarns and ply yarns are bulkier than covering yarns and latently crimpable stretch yarns, but have a hard texture and lack a soft feeling. The covering yarn and latently crimpable stretchable yarn are silky and soft and rich in drape, but lack a bulge or natural feel. Although the conjugate type latently crimpable spun yarn has the properties of spun yarn such as core yarn and covering yarn, nep generation is inevitable due to rubbing in the spinning process, and the yarn quality is inferior.

Furthermore, covering yarns, core yarns, and ply yarns made of polyester fibers are difficult to eliminate because wrinkle spots appear on the fabric surface due to the high shrinkage force of spandex. Usually, we set a raw machine and suppress the expression of grain spots,
With polyester fibers having sufficient stretchability, this is almost impossible.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a stretchable spun yarn or a woven or knitted fabric which is easy to control grain unevenness, has a uniform and high quality cloth appearance, and is excellent in softness, bulkiness and bulging feeling. With the goal.

[0007]

That is, the present invention is as follows. Stretchable spinning characterized by comprising a blended fiber of short fibers (A) having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 25% or more and other short fibers (B), and long fibers (C) having a stretching elongation rate of 25% or more yarn. 2. The stretchable spun yarn according to 1, wherein the yarn count increase rate after boiling water treatment is 25% or more. 3. 3. The stretchable spinning according to 1 or 2, wherein the short fibers (A) are polyester fibers. 4. The stretchable spun yarn according to any one of 1 to 3, wherein the short fibers (B) are hygroscopic and heat-generating fibers. 5. The stretchable spun yarn according to any one of 1 to 4, wherein the long fibers (C) are polyurethane elastic yarns. 6. The long fiber (C) has a stretching elongation of 25% after boiling water treatment.
The stretchable spun yarn according to any one of 1 to 5 above. 7. The stretchable spun yarn according to any one of 1 to 6, wherein the short fibers (A) are mainly disposed on the core side of the mixed fiber and the short fibers (B) are mainly disposed on the surface of the mixed fiber by heat treatment. A stretchable woven or knitted fabric comprising the stretchable spun yarn according to 8.1 as at least a part thereof. 9. At least part of a stretchable spun yarn consisting of a blended fiber of a short fiber (A) having a boiling water shrinkage of 25% or more and another short fiber (B) and a long fiber (C) having a stretch elongation of 25% or more. A method for producing a stretchable woven or knitted fabric, comprising the steps of: weaving and knitting using the above, and then dyeing without applying a greige set.

The present invention will be described in detail below. The highly shrinkable short fibers (A) need to have a boiling water shrinkage of 25% or more, preferably 30% or more, more preferably 35% or more. This is because the blending ratio can be lowered in the blending with other short fibers (B), and the characteristics of the fibers (B) can be utilized. If it is less than 25%, the shrinkage force is weak and the characteristics of the blended yarn cannot be exhibited. Highly shrinkable short fibers (A) include isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester and acrylic fibers. Fineness, cut length, cross-sectional shape, kneading agent, etc. are adopted according to the purpose.

As the blended fiber (B), natural fiber (cotton, wool, silk, linen, etc.), synthetic fiber (polyester, nylon,
Acrylics, etc., recycled fibers (rayon, cupra, polynosic, lyocell, etc.), semi-synthetic fibers (acetate, triacetate, promix), and acrylate-based hygroscopic exothermic fibers are used. Boiling water shrinkage of 7% or less,
It is preferably 5% or less and -7% or more.

In the present invention, the high shrinkage short fibers (A) and other short fibers (B) are mixed and used. The blending ratio of (A) is preferably 15% or more and less than 60%, and more preferably 20% or more and 50% or less, though it depends on the boiling water shrinkage, and the bulkiness and short fibers after heat treatment of the blended yarn (B It is preferable because the characteristics (1) are easily exhibited. These blends are carried out by a known blending process or a kneading process, and there is no particular limitation.

The stretchable long fibers (C) are polyurethane-based or polyether-ester-based fibers, and a bonded or eccentric type conjugate having a stretchable elongation percentage after boiling water treatment of 25% or more, preferably 30% or more. The target is threads and the like. The ratio of stretchable filaments (C) to the composite spun yarn (D) is 5-40%
The degree is desirable. It is difficult to obtain the bulkiness and stretchability of the latently crimped stretchable spun yarn at more or less than the above.

As a method for producing the latently crimped / stretchable spun yarn (D), a method of spinning and twisting highly shrinkable short fibers and stretchable long fibers (C) (core yarn, electrostatic mixed fiber, silospan,
Etc.), a method of aligning and twisting a highly shrinkable blended yarn and an elastic long fiber (C) (a highly shrinkable blended yarn is a single yarn or a twin yarn twisted yarn),
The design twisting method or covering method in which the elastic long fibers (C) are arranged in the core yarn is adopted.

The latently crimped / stretchable spun yarn (D) exhibits crimp and stretchability in the form of a woven or knitted fabric, and can also be used in a woven or knitted fabric after the crimp and stretchability are exhibited in the form of a yarn. it can. The heat treatment in the form of yarn is performed by heat treatment in vacuum steam or liquid heat up to 130 ° C. in a maze shape or a soft cheese shape, or by dyeing, so that uniform shrinkage development is achieved in the length direction of the thread. The woven or knitted product of the crimped spun yarn is then subjected to scouring and relaxing treatments, and then finished through a predetermined processing step.

In the bulky stretchable spun yarn in which crimps are expressed, the stretchable long fibers (C) are mainly arranged in the core portion, while the short fibers are the high shrinkage fiber (A) in the core portion of the yarn, Other fibers on the surface layer (B)
It will be in the form that many are distributed. In order to obtain such a yarn form, the bulkiness of the yarn after heat shrinkage, that is, the count increase rate is 25%.
Above, it is necessary to be preferably 30% or more.
If it is less than 25%, the characteristics of the present invention are not exhibited.

According to the present invention, since the yarn after crimping is a bulky spun yarn, the stretchable stretched yarn has a high covering property, and is a general ply yarn composed of one stretchable stretched yarn and two spun yarns. On the other hand, only one spun yarn may be used. Therefore, it can be used as a fine count twisted yarn, and the cost can be reduced.

In the present invention, as the fiber (B) arranged in the surface layer of the yarn, cotton, regenerated cellulose-based hygroscopic fiber, and easily fibrillar fiber such as cupra, polynosic and lyocell can be preferably used. Further, if the fiber is an acrylate-based hygroscopic heat-generating fiber, the bulky crimped yarn form enhances the heat retaining effect and becomes a more preferable yarn or fabric form. Furthermore, if the highly shrinkable fiber has a hollow cross-sectional shape, the heat retaining effect is further effective. Further, by using polyester as the highly shrinkable fiber (A), it is possible to improve the dimensional stability during washing, and in particular, it effectively acts as a washable stretchable woven or knitted fabric.

When the latently crimped / stretchable spun yarn (D) is used for the warp, it is preferable to treat it at a sizing liquid temperature of 70 ° C. or lower and a drying temperature of 90 ° C. or lower in order to maintain the residual shrinkage ratio. .

In the dyeing process, after the dough is subjected to desizing and relaxation treatment at a boiling water temperature or lower without applying a greige set, or after the latent crimp / stretchable spun yarn (D) is crimped, High-pressure liquid heat relaxation treatment up to 130 ° C. causes residual shrinkage of the spun yarn and relaxation of the fabric.
The advantage of the present invention over the known technique is that the high shrinkage short fibers (A) in the latently crimped / stretchable spun yarn (D) shrink in the desizing scouring / relaxation process, and other blended fibers (B) are yarns. Bulky so that it is arranged on the outer side of the yarn, and that the spun yarn (D) shrinks as the polyurethane shrinks.

In the conventional yarn, for example, the polyurethane yarn in the blended yarn (D) shrinks in this process, resulting in an increase in the warp density and the weft yarn on the surface of the fabric to absorb the yarn length of the woven weft yarn. Come to float. Since this phenomenon appears unevenly on the entire surface of the cloth, unevenness occurs, resulting in so-called mottled spots. In the conventional method, it was necessary to set a greige set at 180 ° C. or lower for relaxing the shrinkage force of the polyurethane for the purpose of suppressing the mottled spots. However, with a weft yarn such as heat-resistant polyurethane that has a strong expansion and recovery force, the setting effect was weak even at this heat setting temperature, and it was not possible to eliminate the mottled spots. Raising the heat setting temperature to 190 ° C or higher was not preferable because the texture of the dough was impaired.

In the present invention, at the same time as the shrinkage of the polyurethane, the high shrinkage short fibers shrink and the weft length in the fabric is shortened,
It serves to reduce the embossment of the weft thread from the tissue. At the same time, the spun yarn becomes bulky and soft-textured. Thus, in the present invention, the greige setting step can be omitted, so that the present invention works extremely effectively in the woven fabric standard in which the warp feeling due to the greige setting is impaired. The desizing and scouring, or the relaxing step and the high-pressure liquid heat relaxing treatment may be carried out in the same step or in different steps.

[0021]

[Examples] [Measurement method] -Hot water shrinkage rate of cotton: JIS L1015-1992-Hot water shrinkage rate of yarn: JIS L1095-1990 C method-Expansion / contraction elongation rate of yarn: JIS L1090-1992 A method The value of the cotton in Example 3 is the value at the time of treatment at 130 ° C. for 15 minutes (the other values are at the time of treatment at 100 ° C. for 15 minutes). Yarn count increase rate: {count (a) before treatment-count (b) after hot water treatment} ÷ count (a) before treatment × 100% However, Comparative Example 3 was converted to count.・ Elongation rate of cloth: JIS L1096-1999 B method (constant load method)

[Example 1] 8 mol% isophthalic acid copolyester fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 54% (hollowness 15%, 1.6T38 mm) 40% cotton and 60% cotton blended yarn Polyether polyurethane 44T
(Breaking strength 1.33 cN / dtex, breaking elongation 420%, 1
The stress at the time of 00% elongation is 2.47 cN / dtex), and the polyurethane yarn is drafted at 3.0 times, and the number of twists is 820 t.
/ M (k = 3.62) English yarn count 30s core yarn was spun. The composition of the spun yarn is high shrinkage polyester fiber 3
It was 7%, cotton 55.5%, and polyurethane yarn 7.5%.

Comparative Example 1 Example 1 except polyester short fibers containing no isophthalic acid (boiling water shrinkage 1.4%)
The core yarn was spun under the same conditions as. The structure of the spun yarn was the same as in Example 1.

[Example 2] The same high-shrinkage polyester short fibers as in Example 1 and 40% of 1.6T 38 mm polytonic fiber "Tuffcel" manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd. 60% blended yarn English cotton count 30s (Z twist, twist coefficient 3.4
= 733 t / m, boiling water shrinkage 34%) and the same polyurethane yarn as in Example 1 were combined in draft 3.5, and then S
A twist of 1378 t / m was applied in the twist direction (the residual twist coefficient was 4.64). Then, a twist prevention vacuum set was applied at 60 ° C. for 20 minutes. The composition of the spun yarn was 56% polynosic, 38% polyester, and 6% polyurethane. When the weft yarn was unwound from the fabric after the dyeing finish and the yarn form was observed, the polyurethane yarn hardly appeared in the yarn surface layer portion, was well covered with bulky short fibers, and was of good quality.

[Comparative Example 2] A polyester twisted fiber containing no isophthalic acid (boiling water shrinkage rate 1.4%) and a twist-prevention set were used, and a twisted yarn was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 2. The structure of the plied yarn was the same as in Example 2. When the weft yarn was unwound from the dyed and finished fabric and the yarn form was observed, the polyurethane yarn appeared in the yarn surface layer and the coverage of the short fibers with polyurethane was insufficient.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 The same polyurethane yarn as in Example 1 was used as the core, the polyester false twisted yarn 173T96f was placed in the sheath, and a single covering yarn twisted at 800 t / m at a draft ratio of 3.5 was prepared. A twist prevention set was applied at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes. 6.5% polyurethane, 9 polyester
The composition yarn was 3.5%.

[Example 3] Diethylene glycol 2.5
50% polyester fiber copolymerized with 10% by mole of isophthalic acid and 50% of polyester fiber not containing isophthalic acid are laminated latently crimpable stretchable polyester fibers 55T24 filament (boiling water shrinkage at 130 ° C. is 52%). %) And the same high shrinkage blended yarn as in Example 2 only for count 60 s (English cotton count, Z twist, twist coefficient 3.
A ply yarn (S twist, 800 t / m) composed of two spun yarns of 5) was prepared. It was a spun yarn composed of 31% of highly shrinkable polyester short fibers, 47% of polynosic, and 22% of polyester filaments.

These are mixed yarns of the high shrinkage polyester short fibers and polynosic fibers used in Example 2 as warps 30s
Was sewn into the weaving thread of the hira fabric. At that time, the greige density was 34 yarns / cm and 23 wefts / cm. Then 2
Adopting seed scouring and relaxing process conditions, each process was finished with a certain width. The boiling water shrinkage of these wefts, and the finished fabric quality, feel and stretchability were evaluated. The results show that in Examples 1 to 3, the yarn count change rate after boiling water treatment was 35% or more, and the yarn was changed to a sufficiently bulky yarn as compared with the comparative example. In addition, the quality of the dough obtained by the step without the greige set was good because only the example exhibited a uniform dough surface without graininess. In Comparative Example 3, large mottled spots were generated on the entire surface, and in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the central part of the cloth was low and both sides had a large embossed appearance, and the quality was remarkably poor. The texture was soft and rich in all the examples. In particular, Example 2 exhibited a peach-skin-like appearance and texture due to fibrils and was favorable. The comparative examples were all inferior in feel to the examples.

The quality of the dough by the greige setting process was good in all the comparative examples, with mild unevenness, but the greige setting lost the shrinkage force of the warp, and the shrinkage due to the scouring relaxation did not cause contraction, resulting in a flat and swelling feeling. It was a chipping dough. According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a uniform and full swelling fabric while sufficiently exhibiting latent properties of the yarn constituting the fabric which cannot be obtained by the conventional stretchable yarn.

Process Spread-type continuous refining (80 ° C 15 minutes)
-Relaxation of high-pressure liquid stream (20 minutes for 20 minutes, 10% alkali reduction) -Intermediate set (180 seconds for 30 seconds) -High pressure liquid dyeing (130 minutes for 30 minutes) -Soft treatment-Finishing set (17)
0 ° C 30 seconds) Process raw machine set (170 ° C 30 seconds) -High pressure liquid flow relaxation (120 ° C 20 minutes, 10% alkali weight reduction processing)-
High-pressure jet dyeing (130 ° C 30 minutes) -Softening-Finishing set (170 ° C 30 seconds)

[0031]

[Table 1] [Example 4] High-shrinkage polyester copolymerized with 2.5 mol% of diethylene glycol and 10 mol% of isophthalic acid
A mixed spun roving composed of short steal fibers (1.6T 38 mm, hollowness 20%, boiling water shrinkage 62%), cotton, acrylate-based hygroscopic exothermic fiber “EX” (1.6T 38 mm) manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd. , Polyether polyurethane 44T
(Breaking strength 1.33 cN / dtex, breaking elongation 420%, 1
The stress at the time of 100% elongation is 2.47 cN / dtex), and the polyurethane yarn is drafted at 3.0 times, and the twist number is 1102.
An English cotton count 40s core yarn of t / m (k = 4.43) was spun. The composition of the spun yarn is high shrinkage polyester fiber 23%, cotton 40%, hygroscopic exothermic fiber "EX" 30%,
The polyurethane yarn was 7%. This yarn was subjected to a peroxide exposure treatment with a soft-rolling type cheese dyeing machine, then subjected to crimp expression treatment at 100 ° C. for 15 minutes, and dispersion dyeing (black) at 130 ° C. for 20 minutes was performed. The yarn count increase rate after the treatment was 38.8%, and the stretch elongation rate was 43%. The yarn surface layer was covered with a lot of cotton, the black color was not so conspicuous, and the bulky crimped elastic yarn had many polyester fibers arranged in the core. Then 20G with this thread
Was knitted, scoured, and then heat set at 150 ° C. for 30 seconds to finish. When this fabric was left in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% RH, it showed a moisture absorption rate of 11.6% after 120 minutes. Further, when left in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 90% RH, the temperature in the dough rose to 27.2 ° C. after 10 minutes. From this fact, this fabric has sufficient moisture absorption and heat generation,
In addition, the hollow polyester fiber enhanced the heat retention effect, and was a bulky and comfortable cloth with cushion feeling.

[0032]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY In the present invention, a highly crimpable stretchable woven or knitted fabric having no unevenness and having a uniform appearance, and a latently crimped / stretchable composite spun yarn that enables it are obtained. Further, since a greige set for suppressing unevenness is not required, dyeing can be performed without impairing the thermal characteristics of other fibers constituting the interwoven fabric. In addition, the yarn or woven or knitted material in which the crimp is manifested is bulky and has a cushioning effect, and the effect of covering the elastic long fibers is also high, and the fabric quality is high. It is possible to provide a good woven or knitted fabric.

Claims (9)

[Claims] 1. A mixed fiber of a short fiber (A) having a boiling water shrinkage of 25% or more and another short fiber (B), and a long fiber (C) having a stretching elongation of 25% or more. Stretchable spun yarn to be. 2. The stretchable spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the yarn count increase rate after boiling water treatment is 25% or more. 3. Stretchable spinning according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the short fibers (A) are polyester fibers. 4. The stretchable spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the short fibers (B) are hygroscopic and exothermic fibers. 5. The stretchable spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the long fibers (C) are polyurethane elastic yarns. 6. The stretchable spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the long fiber (C) has a stretch elongation ratio of 25% or more after boiling water treatment. 7. The short fiber (A) is mainly disposed on the core side of the mixed fiber and the short fiber (B) is mainly disposed on the surface of the mixed fiber by heat treatment, according to any one of claims 1 to 6. Stretchable spun yarn as described. 8. A stretchable woven or knitted fabric comprising the stretchable spun yarn according to claim 1 at least in part. 9. Stretchable spinning comprising blended fibers of short fibers (A) having a boiling water shrinkage of 25% or more and other short fibers (B), and long fibers (C) having a stretching elongation of 25% or more. A method for producing a stretchable woven or knitted fabric, which comprises knitting and weaving using a yarn for at least a part of the yarn, and then dyeing the fabric without applying a greige set.