CN111020783A - Flax elastic covered yarn and flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric - Google Patents

Flax elastic covered yarn and flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111020783A
CN111020783A CN201911074698.0A CN201911074698A CN111020783A CN 111020783 A CN111020783 A CN 111020783A CN 201911074698 A CN201911074698 A CN 201911074698A CN 111020783 A CN111020783 A CN 111020783A
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Prior art keywords
yarn
flax
elastic
fabric
core yarn
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CN201911074698.0A
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Inventor
刘曰兴
张国清
王玉平
成国庆
苏长智
刘尊东
魏宪举
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Binzhou Yuyi Textile Technology Co ltd
Yuyue Home Textile Co Ltd
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Binzhou Yuyi Textile Technology Co ltd
Yuyue Home Textile Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201911074698.0A priority Critical patent/CN111020783A/en
Publication of CN111020783A publication Critical patent/CN111020783A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/326Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic the elastic properties due to the construction rather than to the use of elastic material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C3/00Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/10Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
    • D06L4/13Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen using inorganic agents
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    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
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    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
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    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
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    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
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    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8219Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups
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    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
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    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/20Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease
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    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/45Shrinking resistance, anti-felting properties
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  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses elastic flax covered yarn, which is composite yarn consisting of high elastic silk serving as core yarn and a covering layer covering the outside of the core yarn, wherein the covering layer comprises a first covering layer and a second covering layer, the first covering layer is wrapped on the surface of the core yarn in a left spiral mode along the axial direction of the core yarn, the second covering layer is wrapped on the surface of the first covering layer in a right spiral mode along the axial direction of the core yarn, the first covering layer is long flax fiber, the second covering layer is nylon filament fiber, the pre-drafting multiple of the core yarn is 1.5-7 times, the elastic flax covered yarn further comprises composite weft wrinkle feeling fabric which is formed by crosswise weaving warp yarn and weft yarn, the warp yarn adopts flax yarn, the weft yarn adopts elastic flax covered yarn, the flax covered yarn is woven into grey cloth, and the grey cloth is treated by adopting a chemical process. A large number of uniform and regular small crushed wrinkles are formed in the warp direction through the formed uniform bulges, so that the attractiveness of the fabric is improved, and the suppression of irregular large wrinkles which are easy to occur in the traditional hemp fabric is realized by the uniform and regular small crushed wrinkles.

Description

Flax elastic covered yarn and flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of flax spinning, in particular to flax elastic covered yarn and flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric.
Background
Nowadays, with the improvement of living standard, people have higher and higher requirements on dress fabrics. Flax fiber fabric is honored as natural air conditioner, and flax's heat dispersion is splendid, and flax is the fibre of higher noble among the natural fibre, and it absorbs moisture the heat dissipation, and health care antibacterial, antifouling antistatic, ultraviolet protection to flame retardant efficiency is splendid. The clothes made of flax are very popular with people.
Flax is natural fiber, and flax surface fabric is ventilative, comfortable, antibiotic, but this kind of material toughness of flax is ten sufficient, and no elasticity, and flax yarn is spun into spun yarn by flax fiber after twisting, and flax fiber is uneven in thickness itself, therefore spun yarn often also is uneven in thickness, warp easily after spinning into the surface fabric, corrugate. In order to solve the problems of flax deformation and wrinkling, flax yarns and other yarns are blended or are made into wrapping yarns at present, and the elasticity of the yarns is changed by adding other fibers so as to improve the deformation resistance and the wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
CN 108085811 a provides a composite covered yarn and a preparation method thereof, the composite covered yarn comprises a core yarn and an outer covering yarn, the core yarn is a spandex filament, the outer covering yarn comprises a kapok fiber yarn and a flax fiber yarn, the kapok fiber yarn is wound on the surface of the spandex filament, the flax fiber yarn is wound outside the kapok fiber yarn, and the winding directions of the flax fiber yarn and the kapok fiber yarn are opposite; the kapok fiber yarn and the flax fiber yarn are dyed into black by adopting an environment-friendly dye solution. CN 108660563 a provides an anti-drop covered yarn and its preparation process, the covered yarn comprises a core yarn and an outer covered yarn, the core yarn is a nylon filament, the outer covered yarn comprises a flax fiber yarn and a alginate fiber yarn, the flax fiber yarn is wound on the surface of the nylon filament, the alginate fiber yarn is wound outside the flax fiber yarn, and the winding directions of the alginate fiber yarn and the flax fiber yarn are opposite. CN 103382603 a discloses an itch-free hemp core covered yarn and its processing method, the covered yarn comprises a core yarn and an outer covering yarn, wherein the core yarn is a hemp yarn, the outer covering yarn is a spun yarn or a filament yarn, the spun yarn or the filament yarn is wound outside the hemp yarn and covers the hemp yarn; the processing method comprises the following steps: the core yarn is unwound, the yarn is drawn, the wrapping and the winding are carried out to form the core yarn. CN 105839428A discloses a dyeing and finishing process of a novel nylon-coated weft elastic wrinkle fabric, which is carried out according to the following procedures: cloth is trained in an overflow cylinder → dyeing, color fixing → dehydration, scutching → sizing, wherein: the setting temperature is (138- & ltminus & gt-. CN 107177922A discloses a flax elastic fabric. The final count of the elastic flax fabric is 50Nm, the splitting degree index of the flax raw material is mainly considered in the selection of the flax raw material, and flax with the splitting degree of more than 250 counts is finally selected according to the test to be beaten into the flax. The flax high count yarn is produced by adopting a biological enzyme degumming technology.
The patent provides the current solution to the problems of rough and hard texture, skin irritation, poor air permeability and other uncomfortable wearing problems of flax fabrics, but the problem of flax fabric wrinkling cannot be well solved, the flax fabrics wrinkle unevenly due to the uneven thickness of the flax yarns, the flax fabrics not only have poor elasticity and are easy to deform, the wrinkling formed at the deformation position is irregular large wrinkles, the attractiveness of the fabrics is greatly influenced by the problems of deformation and wrinkling, the wrinkling problem of pure flax fabrics cannot be fundamentally solved only by adopting the traditional dyeing and finishing process although the anti-wrinkle performance is greatly improved, the wrinkling problem of pure flax fabrics is solved, the wrinkling problem caused by the properties of flax materials is blank except the chemical mode of the after-finishing process, and the anti-wrinkle treatment of pure flax fabrics from the aspect of structure change is carried out at present, the method becomes a difficult problem to be solved urgently which restricts the development of the field of the hemp fabrics.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide the flax elastic covered yarn and the flax composite weft elastic wrinkled fabric which are simple in structure, fluffy and soft in fabric, uniform and fine in wrinkling, good in elasticity and small in deformation.
In order to solve the technical problems, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: the elastic flax covered yarn comprises high-elasticity yarns as core yarns and a composite yarn consisting of a covering layer wrapping the outside of the core yarns, wherein the covering layer comprises a first covering layer wrapping the surface of the core yarns in a left spiral mode along the axial direction of the core yarns and a second covering layer wrapping the surface of the first covering layer in a right spiral mode along the axial direction of the core yarns, the first covering layer is long flax fibers, the second covering layer is nylon filament fibers, the pre-drafting multiple of the core yarns is 1.5-7 times, and the fineness of the long flax fibers is 3 multiplied by 6.4tex, the twist: 600-800 t/m, the fineness of the nylon filament yarn is 3 multiplied by 6.4tex, the twist is: 600 to 800 t/m.
After the core yarn is stretched and heated, the nylon filament fiber and the core yarn are thermally bonded to fix the long flax fiber on the core yarn, and after stretching recovery, the long flax fiber among the staggered points of the nylon filament fiber, the long flax fiber and the core yarn retracts due to the core yarn, so that a plurality of uniform and regular arch-forming structures are formed along the axial direction of the core yarn.
In the flax elastic covered yarn, the high stretch yarn is spandex filament fiber, polyamide filament fiber or polyester filament fiber.
According to the flax elastic covered yarn, the quality indexes of the nylon filament fibers are as follows: the breaking strength is more than or equal to 4.28cN/dtex, and the elongation at break (70 +/-2.0)%.
A flax composite weft elastic crease fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein the warp yarns adopt flax yarns, the weft yarns adopt the flax elastic covering yarns as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, the flax elastic covering yarns are woven into a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is treated by a chemical process, and the flax composite weft elastic crease fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) low temperature oxygen bleaching pre-finishing
Uniformly mixing soda ash with the mass concentration of 3-5 g/l, 1-2 g/l of a detergent and 1-2 g/l of an oxygen bleaching activator in an auxiliary cylinder to form oxygen bleaching treatment liquid, putting the oxygen bleaching treatment liquid into a boiling pot, putting grey cloth into the boiling pot, and starting to heat up; adding 28% hydrogen peroxide by mass into the boiler when the temperature of the oxygen bleaching treatment liquid is raised to 70-80 ℃, controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 8-1: 15, and discharging liquid after running for 40-50 min;
(2) enzyme polishing treatment
Adding 0.5-3 g/l of polishing enzyme and 0.5-1 g/l of permeation enhancer into an auxiliary cylinder, uniformly mixing, putting into a boiling pot, and starting to heat up; heating to 50-55 ℃, then carrying out heat preservation for 10-15 min, discharging liquid, and controlling the mangle ratio of the grey cloth to be 80-90%;
(3) tentering and setting
Tentering and setting the gray fabric after the enzyme polishing treatment, wherein a tentering setting machine is used, the setting temperature is controlled to be 90-150 ℃, the heating setting time is controlled to be 30-60S, the vehicle speed is 30-50 m/min, and the shrinkage is controlled to be 20-25%;
(4) and obtaining the finished flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric.
According to the flax composite weft elastic crease fabric, the gray fabric after the enzyme polishing treatment in the step (2) is subjected to functional finishing, 30-80g/l of shrink-proof finishing agent, 10-30g/l of catalyst and 20-50g/l of moisture-absorbing and heat-removing finishing agent are uniformly mixed in an auxiliary cylinder, then the pre-finished gray fabric is put in, and flat padding finishing is carried out, wherein the mangle ratio is controlled to be 80-90%.
Dyeing is carried out simultaneously in the step (2) of enzyme polishing treatment, a saucepan is kept warm for 10-15 min, then 20-60 g/l of reactive dye is added to start running for 5min, 2-20 g/l of soda ash, 4-60 g/l of anhydrous sodium sulphate and 0.5-3 g/l of leveling agent are sequentially added to the saucepan, the temperature is raised to run, the heating temperature is controlled to be 60-90 ℃, and the heat preservation time is 30-60 min; carrying out low-temperature soaping on the grey cloth after dyeing treatment, adding 0.3-1.5 g/l of low-temperature soaping agent into a boiler, controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 5-1: 8, adding into an auxiliary cylinder, uniformly mixing, then putting into the boiler, and starting heating operation; and keeping the temperature at 50-70 ℃ for 10-15 min.
In the step (3), in the tentering and setting process, the mangle fabric entering the tentering and setting machine has a mangle ratio of 85% and a vehicle speed of 40m/min, and the heating and setting stage comprises a heat penetration stage of 10-20S, a presetting stage of 10-20S and a cooling and setting stage of 10-20S.
According to the flax composite weft elastic crumpled fabric, the cleaning agent is an anionic/nonionic surfactant, the oxygen bleaching activator is an amine compound, the polishing enzyme is cellulase, the penetration enhancer is a fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether compound, the shrink-proof finishing agent is a high-molecular resin compound, the catalyst is a metal salt compound, the moisture absorption and heat extraction finishing agent is a hydrophilic softener, the active dye is a dichloro triazine type, a monochloro-triazine type or a vinyl sulfone type, the leveling agent is an anionic surfactant, and the low-temperature soaping agent is a compound of a multi-component copolymer high-molecular compound and a surfactant.
According to the flax composite weft elastic wrinkled fabric, the density of the flax composite weft elastic wrinkled fabric is as follows: the warp density is: 128 pieces/cm, the number of warp yarns is: 40, weft yarn density is as follows: 88 pieces/cm, weft count: 60 pieces.
The flax elastic covered yarn and the flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric have the advantages that: the low-melting-point hot-melt spandex filament with high elastic elongation is used as the core yarn, so that the fabric has a certain shrinkage rate after being finished into cloth, the elasticity of the fabric is improved, the hemp fabric can have certain elasticity, the deformation problem of the hemp fabric is reduced, and the fabric is fluffy and soft in hand feeling. The hot melt performance of core yarn and the bonding of polyamide fibre law, can firmly fix the fibrilia in the middle between the adjacent adhesive dot, utilize the coarse and hard, characteristics that the rigidity is big of fibrilia, can make the fibrilia between the adjacent adhesive dot arch up after the core yarn shrink, form a plurality of even archs around the core yarn in the axis direction along the core yarn, through the even arch that forms having formed a large amount of even, regular little garrulous wrinkles along the warp direction, realized anti-wrinkle purpose from the change of structure. Not only improves the beauty of the fabric, but also realizes the inhibition of irregular large wrinkles which are easy to appear on the traditional hemp fabrics by utilizing uniform and regular small crushed wrinkles.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic structural view of a flax elastic wrap yarn of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic structural view of a flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic structural view of a core yarn thermally bonded to a second cladding layer;
FIG. 4 is a chemical treatment process flow chart of the greige cloth of the wrinkled fabric;
FIG. 5 is a flow chart of a chemical treatment process of a non-dyed creped fabric blank;
FIG. 6 is an enlarged schematic view of the structure of the flax elastic covered yarn in a stretched state during tentering setting;
FIG. 7 is an enlarged view of a portion A of FIG. 6;
FIG. 8 is an enlarged view of the arching structure of the long flax fibers after tentering, setting and heating;
FIG. 9 is an enlarged view of a portion B of FIG. 8;
fig. 10 is a graph showing the temperature rise of the oven temperature in the tenter setting step.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further explained in detail with reference to the following detailed embodiments;
example 1:
as shown in fig. 1 and 3, the flax elastic covered yarn is a composite yarn composed of a high stretch yarn as a core yarn 1 and a covering layer 2 covering the core yarn 1, wherein the high stretch yarn is a spandex filament fiber, a polyamide filament fiber or a polyester filament fiber. The coating layer 2 comprises a first coating layer 3 which is wrapped on the surface of the core yarn 1 in a left spiral mode along the axial direction of the core yarn 1, and a second coating layer 4 which is wrapped on the surface of the first coating layer 3 in a right spiral mode along the axial direction of the core yarn 1, wherein the first coating layer 3 is flax long fiber 5, the second coating layer 4 is nylon long fiber 6, the pre-drafting multiple of the core yarn 1 is 1.5-7 times, the fineness of the flax long fiber 5 is 3 multiplied by 6.4tex, the twist: 600-800 t/m, and the mass indexes of the flax long fiber 5 are as follows: the breaking strength is more than or equal to 26cN/dtex, the variation coefficient of breaking strength is less than or equal to 19CV (%), and the yarn evenness is less than or equal to 30CVm (%). The fineness of the nylon filament yarn 6 is 3 multiplied by 6.4tex, the twist is as follows: 600 to 800 t/m. The quality indexes of the nylon filament fiber 6 are as follows: the breaking strength is more than or equal to 4.28cN/dtex, and the elongation at break (70 +/-2.0)%.
As shown in fig. 2 and 5, the flax composite weft elastic crease fabric is formed by crosswise weaving warp yarns 7 and weft yarns 8, wherein the warp yarns 7 are linen yarns, the weft yarns 8 are elastic linen covered yarns, the flax composite weft elastic crease fabric is woven into a grey fabric 9, and the grey fabric 9 is treated by a chemical process, and the flax composite weft elastic crease fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) low temperature oxygen bleaching pre-finishing
Uniformly mixing 3-5 g/l of soda ash, 1-2 g/l of a detergent and 1-2 g/l of an oxygen bleaching activator in an auxiliary cylinder to form oxygen bleaching treatment liquid, putting the oxygen bleaching treatment liquid into a boiling pot, putting the boiling pot into a grey cloth 9, and starting to heat up; adding 28% hydrogen peroxide by mass into the boiler when the temperature of the oxygen bleaching treatment liquid is raised to 70-80 ℃, controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 8-1: 15, and discharging liquid after running for 40-50 min; the process can remove oil stains, dust and impurities which are stained on the surface of the grey cloth 9 and between yarns when the grey cloth is woven on a weaving machine.
(2) Enzyme polishing treatment
Adding 0.5-3 g/l of polishing enzyme and 0.5-1 g/l of permeation enhancer into an auxiliary cylinder, uniformly mixing, putting into a boiling pot, and starting to heat up; heating to 50-55 ℃, then carrying out heat preservation for 10-15 min, discharging liquid, and controlling the mangle ratio of the grey cloth 9 to be 80-90%; the enzyme polishing process can reduce the hairiness on the surface of the fabric to the maximum extent, soften the fabric, improve the softness of the fabric and eliminate the itching feeling of the skin caused by the roughness of the flax fibers.
(3) Tentering and setting
Carrying out tentering setting treatment on the gray fabric 9 after the enzyme polishing treatment, wherein the setting temperature is controlled to be 90-150 ℃, the heating setting time is controlled to be 30-60S, the vehicle speed is 30-50 m/min, and the shrinkage is controlled to be 20-25% by using a tentering setting machine;
(4) and obtaining the finished flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric.
The density of the flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric is as follows: the warp density is: 128 pieces/cm, the number of warp yarns is: 40, weft yarn density is as follows: 88 pieces/cm, weft count: 60 pieces.
Wherein the cleaning agent is an anionic/nonionic surfactant, the oxygen bleaching activator is an amine compound, the polishing enzyme is cellulase, and the penetration enhancer is a fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether compound.
As shown in fig. 9 and 10, in the tenter setting step (3), the fabric 9 entering the tenter setting machine is controlled to have a mangle ratio of 85% and a vehicle speed of 40m/min, and the heat setting step includes a heat penetration step of 10 to 20S, a presetting step of 10 to 20S, and a cooling setting step of 10 to 20S. The design principle of a temperature rise curve is as follows: firstly, designing 1-2 sections of an oven at the temperature of about 100 ℃, and adopting a lower temperature to prevent surface resin from being formed at an overhigh temperature and influencing the fabric style due to a certain water content and chemical agent contained in the gray fabric 9 when the gray fabric enters the oven; the middle 3-5 sections are designed to be about 150 ℃, so that the flax elastic wrap yarns in the grey cloth 9 form a spiral structure in a high-temperature damp and hot environment, and the rear 6-8 sections are designed to be at low temperature of 120-80 ℃ so that chemical agents and fibers are fully combined, the spiral structure is stable and uniform, and the size of the grey cloth 9 is stable. The shrinkage rate of the grey cloth 9 is stable. By utilizing the tentering and setting treatment process, the strength of the gray fabric 9 after being heated and set is improved, broken wrinkles are not easy to scatter, the width of the gray fabric 9 is stabilized, and the integral wrinkle-popping performance of the gray fabric 9 is improved.
As shown in fig. 6, 7, 8 and 9, in the tenter setting process, in the heating process of the elastic covering yarn as the weft yarn 8 in the gray fabric 9, since the core yarn 1 is a low-melting-point hot-melt spandex filament, the melting point of the hot-melt spandex filament is 120 to 140 ℃, and the nylon filament fiber 6 of the second covering layer 4 is also a hot-melt fiber. In the presetting stage, the grey cloth 9 is stretched and heated to enable the nylon filament fibers 6 and the hot-melt spandex filaments to be thermally bonded, and the flax filament fibers 5 and the nylon filament fibers 6 are regularly and reversely spirally and alternately wound, so that the nylon filament fibers 6 after thermal bonding can regularly and sectionally fix the flax filament fibers 5 on the hot-melt spandex filaments, and the flax filament fibers 5 are not bonded with the hot-melt spandex filaments and the nylon filament fibers 6. When the stretching is recovered, the long flax fibers 5 among the interlaced points of the long nylon fiber 6, the long flax fibers 5 and the long spandex fiber will have an arch-shaped structure 10 due to the retraction of the hot-melt spandex, so that a plurality of uniform and regular arch-shaped structures 10 along the axial direction of the long spandex fiber are formed. After the cooling and shaping stage, the width of the grey cloth 9 is stable, and the arching structure 10 forms regular and uniform small broken wrinkles on the surface of the grey cloth 9. The twist of the flax long fiber 5 in the elastic flax covered yarn is combined with the pre-drafting multiple of the core yarn 1 and the tentering and shaping treatment process, and the inhibition of the flax big wrinkles is realized by controlling the shape of the broken wrinkles.
Example 2:
as shown in fig. 4, the hemp fabric has a scratchy feeling when being worn next to the skin, so that the application of the hemp fabric as a material of the next to the skin garment is restricted, and in order to overcome the defect that the hemp fabric cannot be used as a fabric of the next to the skin garment, the linen gray fabric 9 is subjected to softness treatment in the embodiment. And (3) functionally finishing the grey cloth 9 after the enzyme polishing treatment process in the step (2), uniformly mixing 30-80g/l of shrink-proof finishing agent, 10-30g/l of catalyst and 20-50g/l of moisture-absorbing and heat-exhausting finishing agent in an auxiliary cylinder, putting the grey cloth 9 after pre-finishing, and carrying out open-width padding finishing, wherein the mangle ratio is controlled to be 80-90%. This step also makes it possible to increase the strength, resilience and flexibility between fibers. Because the method inhibits large wrinkles by uniform small wrinkles, the shrink-proof finishing agent does not influence the generation of small wrinkles, because the small wrinkles are generated by the structural change of the flax elastic covering yarn, and the shrink-proof finishing agent simultaneously plays a role in reducing the flax shrinkage rate, and the wrinkle cannot be controlled due to excessive shrinkage of the fabric. Therefore, it has an effect of reducing the occurrence of large wrinkles with respect to the linen yarn as the warp yarn, and it functions to assist the small wrinkles to suppress the large wrinkles. Wherein, the shrink-proof finishing agent is a high molecular resin compound, the catalyst is a metal salt compound, and the moisture-absorbing heat-discharging finishing agent is a hydrophilic softening agent.
Example 3:
as shown in fig. 4, in order to save the dyeing and finishing process and reduce the cost, in this embodiment, for the blank fabric 9 to be dyed, the dyeing process is added to the enzyme polishing process and sequentially performed. Dyeing after the enzyme polishing treatment process in the step (2) is completed, keeping the temperature of a boiling pot for 10-15 min, adding 20-60 g/l of reactive dye, starting to operate for 5min, sequentially adding 2-20 g/l of soda ash, 4-60 g/l of anhydrous sodium sulphate and 0.5-3 g/l of leveling agent, heating, controlling the heating temperature at 60-90 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 30-60 min; carrying out low-temperature soaping on the dyed gray fabric 9, adding 0.3-1.5 g/l of low-temperature soaping agent into a boiler, controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 5-1: 8, adding into an auxiliary cylinder, uniformly mixing, then putting into the boiler, and starting to heat up; and keeping the temperature at 50-70 ℃ for 10-15 min. And after the low-temperature soaping process is finished, washing for 1-2 times is carried out on the dark color dyeing, and washing for the light color dyeing is not needed. Wherein the reactive dye is a dichlorotriazine type, a monochlorotriazine type or a vinyl sulfone type, the leveling agent is an anionic surfactant, and the low-temperature soaping agent is a compound of a multi-copolymerization high molecular compound and a surfactant.
The invention breaks the crease-resistant idea of the traditional flax fabric, adopts a novel crease-resistant mode of inhibiting wrinkles by using wrinkles, has elasticity, and inhibits the appearance of larger wrinkles by using even and small crushed flax wrinkles, so that the fabric has fine, soft and comfortable handfeel and more attractive appearance, and the fabric with special appearance style is obtained. By means of combining tentering and sizing with a dyeing and finishing process, the novel covering yarn structure is combined with a chemical dyeing and finishing crease-resistant mode, shrink-resistant and crease-resistant performances are improved, dyeing and finishing process steps are saved, the usage amount of dyed dyes and auxiliaries is reduced, and the discharge of sewage is reduced.
It is to be understood that the above description is not intended to limit the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the above examples, and those skilled in the art should understand that they can make various changes, modifications, additions and substitutions within the spirit and scope of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The utility model provides a flax elasticity cladding yarn, its is as core yarn by the high stretch yarn to and wrap up the composite yarn that constitutes in the outside coating of core yarn, its characterized in that: the coating comprises a first coating layer and a second coating layer, wherein the first coating layer is wrapped on the surface of the core yarn in a left spiral mode along the axial direction of the core yarn, the second coating layer is wrapped on the surface of the first coating layer in a right spiral mode along the axial direction of the core yarn, the first coating layer is flax long fiber, the second coating layer is nylon long fiber, the pre-drafting multiple of the core yarn is 1.5-7 times, the fineness of the flax long fiber is 3 multiplied by 6.4tex, the twist degree is: 600-800 t/m, the fineness of the nylon filament yarn is 3 multiplied by 6.4tex, the twist is: 600 to 800 t/m.
2. The flax elastic wrap yarn of claim 1, wherein: after the core yarn is stretched and heated, the nylon filament fiber and the core yarn are thermally bonded to fix the flax long fiber on the core yarn, and after stretching recovery, the flax long fiber among the staggered points of the nylon filament fiber, the flax long fiber and the core yarn is retracted by the core yarn to form a plurality of uniform and regular arch-forming structures along the axial direction of the core yarn.
3. The flax elastic wrap yarn of claim 1, wherein: the high stretch yarn is spandex filament yarn fiber, chinlon filament yarn fiber or terylene filament yarn fiber.
4. The flax elastic wrap yarn of claim 1, wherein: the nylon filament fiber has the following quality indexes: the breaking strength is more than or equal to 4.28cN/dtex, and the elongation at break (70 +/-2.0)%.
5. The flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric is formed by crosswise weaving warp yarns and weft yarns, and is characterized in that: the warp yarn is linen yarn, the weft yarn is linen elastic covering yarn according to any one of claims 1-4, the grey cloth is woven, the grey cloth is processed by a chemical process, and the method comprises the following steps:
(1) low temperature oxygen bleaching pre-finishing
Uniformly mixing soda ash with the mass concentration of 3-5 g/l, 1-2 g/l of a detergent and 1-2 g/l of an oxygen bleaching activator in an auxiliary cylinder to form oxygen bleaching treatment liquid, putting the oxygen bleaching treatment liquid into a boiling pot, putting grey cloth into the boiling pot, and starting to heat up; adding 28% hydrogen peroxide by mass into the boiler when the temperature of the oxygen bleaching treatment liquid is raised to 70-80 ℃, controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 8-1: 15, and discharging liquid after running for 40-50 min;
(2) enzyme polishing treatment
Adding 0.5-3 g/l of polishing enzyme and 0.5-1 g/l of permeation enhancer into an auxiliary cylinder, uniformly mixing, putting into a boiling pot, and starting to heat up; heating to 50-55 ℃, then carrying out heat preservation for 10-15 min, discharging liquid, and controlling the mangle ratio of the grey cloth to be 80-90%;
(3) tentering and setting
Tentering and setting the gray fabric after the enzyme polishing treatment, wherein a tentering setting machine is used, the setting temperature is controlled to be 90-150 ℃, the heating setting time is controlled to be 30-60S, the vehicle speed is 30-50 m/min, and the shrinkage is controlled to be 20-25%;
(4) and obtaining the finished flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric.
6. The flax composite weft elastic crepe fabric according to claim 5, wherein: and (3) performing functional finishing on the grey cloth after the enzyme polishing treatment procedure in the step (2), uniformly mixing 30-80g/l of shrink-proof finishing agent, 10-30g/l of catalyst and 20-50g/l of moisture-absorbing and heat-exhausting finishing agent in an auxiliary cylinder, putting the grey cloth after pre-finishing, and performing open-width padding finishing, wherein the mangle ratio is controlled to be 80-90%.
7. The flax composite weft elastic crepe fabric according to claim 5, wherein: dyeing is carried out simultaneously in the enzyme polishing treatment process in the step (2), after the boiling pan is insulated for 10-15 min, 20-60 g/l of reactive dye is added to start running for 5min, 2-20 g/l of soda ash, 4-60 g/l of anhydrous sodium sulphate and 0.5-3 g/l of leveling agent are sequentially added, the temperature is raised and the running is carried out, the heating temperature is controlled to be 60-90 ℃, and the insulation time is 30-60 min; carrying out low-temperature soaping on the grey cloth after dyeing treatment, adding 0.3-1.5 g/l of low-temperature soaping agent into a boiler, controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 5-1: 8, adding into an auxiliary cylinder, uniformly mixing, then putting into the boiler, and starting heating operation; and keeping the temperature at 50-70 ℃ for 10-15 min.
8. The flax composite weft elastic crepe fabric according to claim 5, wherein: in the tentering and setting process in the step (3), the mangle ratio of the grey cloth entering the tentering and setting machine is controlled to be 85%, the vehicle speed is 40m/min, and the heating and setting stage comprises a heat penetration stage of 10-20S, a presetting stage of 10-20S and a cooling and setting stage of 10-20S.
9. The flax composite weft elastic crepe fabric according to claim 5, wherein: the cleaning agent is an anionic/nonionic surfactant, the oxygen bleaching activator is an amine compound, the polishing enzyme is cellulase, the penetration enhancer is a fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether compound, the shrink-proof finishing agent is a high-molecular resin compound, the catalyst is a metal salt compound, the moisture absorption and heat extraction finishing agent is a hydrophilic softener, the reactive dye is a dichloro triazine type, a monochloro-triazine type or a vinyl sulfone type, the leveling agent is an anionic surfactant, and the low-temperature soaping agent is a compound of a multi-copolymerization high-molecular compound and a surfactant.
10. The flax composite weft elastic crepe fabric according to claim 5, wherein: the density of the flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric is as follows: the warp density is: 128 pieces/cm, the number of warp yarns is: 40, weft yarn density is as follows: 88 pieces/cm, weft count: 60 pieces.
CN201911074698.0A 2019-11-06 2019-11-06 Flax elastic covered yarn and flax composite weft elastic wrinkle fabric Withdrawn CN111020783A (en)

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