TW445137B - Lining cloth and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Lining cloth and method for producing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
TW445137B
TW445137B TW88102999A TW88102999A TW445137B TW 445137 B TW445137 B TW 445137B TW 88102999 A TW88102999 A TW 88102999A TW 88102999 A TW88102999 A TW 88102999A TW 445137 B TW445137 B TW 445137B
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Taiwan
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fabric
yarn
weft
polyester
lining
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TW88102999A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
Hisaharu Takeuchi
Tsuneo Igarashi
Hiroyuki Mizuki
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Asahi Chemical Ind
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Abstract

A lining cloth of a woven fabric in which the warp yarn comprises either of polyester filamentary yarn or cellulosic filamentary yarn and the filling yarn comprises either a false-twisted polyester filamentary yarn, a raw filamentary yarn or a cellulosic filamentary yarn, characterized in that an elongation in the filling-wise direction of the woven fabric is in a range from 5% to 12%, a coefficient of dynamic friction on the surface of the woven fabric is in a range from 0.20 to 0.45, and a filling-wise crimp index value of the woven fabric as defined by the following formula (1) is in a range from 0.003 to 0.013. Formula (1): filling-wise crimping ratio/warp yarn density x (warp year size)<SP>1/2</SP>. The lining cloth according to the present invention is soft in touch, excellent in slipperiness, resistant to seam slippage and free from wearing pressure. The lining cloth is suitably used as a lining for a skirt which is otherwise liable to ride up. The lining cloth according to the present invention is produced by heat-treating a grey fabric woven from warp yarns of polyester filament or cellulosic filament and filling yarns of raw polyester filament at a temperature in a range from 160 DEG C to 210 DEG C prior to or after the scouring while being narrowed in width by 5 to 30% relative to the grey fabric.

Description

445 彳 3 7 A7 經濟部智慧財1局員工消費合作社印製 B7 五、發明說明（1 ) 【技術領域】 本發明係有關一種具有極爲良好之縫孔防滑脫性能及 可減輕穿用時壓迫感之裏子布料，詳細而言，係有關一種 緯度方向由具有伸縮性，觸感極爲柔軟且具有優良表面平 滑性之聚酯系長纖維1 〇 0 %裏子布料及纖維素系長纖維 與聚酯系長纖維交織而得之裏子布料、纖維素系長纖維 1 0 0 °/。裏子布料之發明。 【技術背景】 目前作爲織物裏子布料所使用之纖維材料，一般可大 致區分爲聚酯系長纖維與纖維素系長纖維二種。由聚酯系 長纖維1 0 0%所構成之晏子布料，較由纖維素系長纖維 1 0 0 %所構成之裏子布料具有低價，對拉伸性、撓曲性 、摩擦性等具有較大強度’洗濯後除具有尺寸安定性外外 觀變化亦極少等優點，故佔日本國內使用之裏子布料全體 約8成之量。但纖維素系長纖維1 0 〇 %所製得之裏子布 料，較聚酯系長纖維裏子布料具有更優良之吸濕性，且具 有吸汗性 '抗靜電性' 平滑性等優點，因此再高級婦人服 飾上爲一種具有極高評價之裏子布料。 ' 又，目前爲將聚酯系長纖維及纖維素系長纖維優點集 中而將此些絲交織所得之裏子布料亦已形成商品化。 近年來’用於洋裝所使用之外層布料，在重視衣服穿 著之舒適感，及重視剪裁之流行的影響下，柔軟且舒適之 布料漸漸已形成外層布料之主流，而裏子布料也爲提昇衣 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 * 297公餐） 4 I--I--— — — — — . · I--11 — I ---11---故 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧財產局員工消费合作社印製 445137 A7 _B7_ 五、發明說明（2 ) 服穿著之舒適感，而在不損及外層布料之剪裁下已有柔軟 且舒適之裏子布料形成商品化。 一般欲製得柔軟且舒適之裏子布料的方法’多使用可 將經向絲/緯向絲之密度降低之使纖維素系長纖維細丹尼 爾化，或以改良染色加工方法等方式製得。其中’特別是 在製得聚酯系長纖維1 0 0 %所構成之裏子布料時’多於 染色加工時使用高濃度之苛性鈉溶液以進行減量加工而使 其成爲觸感柔軟化之裏子布料。進行減量加工之裏子布料 之中亦有減量率達1 〇〜2 0%之高減量產品，其具有極 佳之柔軟及蓬鬆觸感，因此常被使用於較高級服飾之裏子 布料。 經減量加工所得之觸感柔軟化，係爲鹼性溶液中使聚 酯系纖維經加水分解使纖維細小化之方法，但在構成織物 之經向絲及緯向絲間則會形成縫隙，且構成經向絲及緯向 絲之多纖維絲間亦會形成縫隙，此點會使織物之拉伸剛性 或撓曲剛性、剪切剛性等性質降低，而使織物所產生之柔 軟觸感、舒適感等效果。且經高減量處理之裏子布料’在 具有柔軟觸感之另一面，因經向絲與緯向絲間形成縫隙’ 故衣服於穿用時常因較大之拉伸力 '剪切力而使得經向絲 或緯向絲極容易滑動，而產生於實際穿著時之問題則是會 有裏子布料之縫孔極容易鬆脫之缺點。此處所稱鬆脫係指 ，織物之縫孔在施加有外界應力時，以縫孔爲界限之經向 絲或緯向絲會有移動現象產生’較嚴重時會有使縫孔破裂 之情形產生。 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） &lt;請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁&gt; 裝—— II 訂------1!^ A7 B7 445137 五、發明說明（3) (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 實際產生縫孔鬆脫之服飾代表例，如一般婦女之緊身 裙。緊身裙爲注重與肌膚之觸感故裏子布料幾乎不保留「 摺曲」布料，因此對身體之尺寸而言裏子布料之伸縮度極 小’故在步行或座息中若動作過於劇烈時常會因縫孔被拉 伸而產生縫孔鬆脫之現象。而爲避免縫孔鬆脫現象之產生 ’ 一般多採用例如增加織物之經向絲與緯向絲之纖維絲密 度、使用滑動防止劑以增加纖維間之摩擦力等方法=但增 加經向絲與緯向絲纖維之密度則會產生與觸感柔軟相反之 效果’而使甩滑動防止劑雖有短暫之效果，但長期經洗漉 結果也脫落而使其效果永久消失·* 本發明者們，在以提供一種具有柔軟觸感且縫孔具有 防止鬆脫功能之裏子布料爲目的下，首先對使用於裙子之 裏子布料會產生縫孔鬆脫之原因而對市販數百種商品之外 層布料及裏子布料作各種分析硏究，而得到以下之結論。 經濟部智慧si產局員工消費合作社印製 外層布料與裏子布料在以5 0 0 g/cm應力下測定 織物之緯度方向之仲度時，相對於絕大多數之外層布料多 爲拉伸率1 0 %左右之織物，裏子布料則僅具有約3 %之 拉伸度。因此，對於附有裏子布料之服飾而言，外層布料 若產生拉伸時對織物原料之應力較小，但對裏子布料則會 產生極大之應力。其中裏子布料各部位中對於應力最弱之 部分爲縫孔部分，因此此點可能即爲裏子布料中縫孔部位 容易鬆脫之主要原因。 例如裙子中臀部位之裏子布料，該部位之布料係依經 度方向縫合，故若有緯度方向之應力產生時則會使經度方 -6- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A·!規格（210 *297公釐） 445137 A7 — B7 五、發明說明（4) 向之縫孔產生鬆脫。特別是在爲達到柔軟觸感爲目的而進 行鹼性減量加工之裏子布料中，常因織物組織中纖維絲不 易固定，故縫孔更容易產生鬆脫之現象。 因此，若使裏子布料具有外層布料同等之緯向拉伸度 時’則縫孔不易產生鬆脫現象，且不會使外層布料之裁剪 樣式產生變化。 以往對裏子布料緯度方向拉伸性之設計方式，在穿著 附有裏子布料之服飾時，例如穿著較短裙子之婦女在坐入 椅子、電車之座椅時，裙子之裙擺會顯著的往上縮，此點 即可能是外層布料與裏子布料在應力之不協調所產生之現 象。 緯方向具有拉伸性之聚酯系長纖維1 0 〇 %之織物， 例如特開昭5 3 — 1 3 0 3 6 3公報、特公平 1 — 21261 、特公昭58 — 115144等記載般， 緯向絲中有使用假撚加工絲而使其具有緯度拉伸度爲1 5 %以上之織物或加工方法。特開昭5 3 - 1 3 0 3 6 3號 公報中則有記載使用依特定條件所製得之假撚加工絲時， 可製得表面粗造度較小且具有1 5¾以上高拉伸度之織物 。其爲緯向絲之假撚加工絲具較大撓曲度，且緯向絲較經 向絲更浮於織物表面產生凹凸感之具有較大構造之織物。 因此其爲觸感較粗造且感覺較具厚度之裏子布料，而作爲 裏子布料重要功能之平滑性較低，故爲一種在穿著衣物時 與肌膚感覺極不佳之織物。 特公平1 — 2 1 2 2 6 1公報中揭示一種以緯向拉伸 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4规格（210 X 297公蜚） &lt;請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝---- 訂-------- 經濟部智慧財J.局員工消費合作社印製 A7 B7 445137 五、發明說明（5 ) 度可拉伸1 5%以上爲目的之加工方法，但其所製得之織 物仍具有極不佳之粗造感，故極不適合作爲裏子布料。 {請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 特公昭58-1 1 5 1 44號公報中，揭示一種經、 緯方向皆具有拉伸度1 5%以上之織物，但其亦爲一種極 爲粗造之裏子布料。又，特公平7 - 7 8 7 2 3號公報中 揭示一種緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維之原絲時可產生一種膨 軟（觸感柔軟且蓬鬆）且具優良平滑性之裏子布料。但此 裏子布料中緯方向之拉伸度爲4 %以下，如前記說明般， 此一拉伸度對於防止縫孔之鬆脫及減輕穿著時壓迫感之效 果上並沒有任何幫助。 由前述之理由可知，依目前之技術對於使用聚酯系長 纖維之原絲或使用纖維素系長纖維作爲緯向絲之織物，並 不能產生具有適度緯向拉伸性之裏子布料。 本發明之目的，係以提供一種具有優良之縫孔防滑脫 性能及穿用時不具壓迫感之柔軟且具平滑性、肌膚接觸感 良好之具有裏襯功能的長纖維織物所得之裏子布料。 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 本發明之另一目的’係提供一種具有前記改良功能之 聚酯系長纖維1 0 0 %裏子布料，及纖維素系長纖維與聚 酯系長纖維交織而得之裏子布料、及纖維素系長纖維 1 0 0 %之裏子布料。 本發明之另一重要目的，係提供一種對聚酯系長纖維 1〇0%之織物、聚酯系長纖維與纖維素系長纖維之交織 織物、纖維素系長纖維1 0 0 %之織物等賦予其具有前記 改良之裏襯功能之由長纖維織物製造裏子布料的製造方法 -8- 本紙張尺度適用中國S家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 x297公釐) 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 民國90年05月修正 A7 B7 4 45 1 #f8102999號專利申請案 中文說明書修正頁 五、發明說明（6 ) 本發明者們，基於前記之了解而對構成裏子布料之織 物的緯向拉伸性開始進行硏究，而硏究出在構成裏子布料 之織物中對緯向絲之撓曲率作適當的選擇時，即pj達成本 發明Η的之長纖維裏子布料，因时完成了本發明。 即本發明之Η的，係爲一種經向絲使用聚酯系長纖維 或纖維素系長纖維，緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工 絲或聚酯系長纖維之原絲或纖維素系長纖維所構成之織物 。該織物之緯度方向之拉仲度爲5〜1 2 % ，織物表面之 動摩擦係數爲0 · 2 0〜0 · 4 5之範圍，依下式（1 )所求得之織物緯向絲單位撓曲係數値爲0 . 〇 〇 3〜 0 . 013之裏子布料。 緯向絲之撓曲率/{經向絲密度X (經向絲之纖度…（1) 本發明之裏子·布料可廣泛作爲平織物、斜紋織物、緞 紋織物等裏-/·布料織物之織物組織以供其編織爲織物ϋ 本發明之裏子布料’經向絲以前記特定之長纖維絲， 緯向絲以聚酯系Μ纖維之假撚加工絲或聚酯系员纖維所編 織所得之織物，可以包含先予以染色’並於精練前或精練 後以對原料織物寬度爲5〜3 0 %之寬度收縮率之狀態下 ，經過1 6 0 &quot;C〜2 1 0 °C之熱處理之加工方式下製得。 又，經向絲以前記将定之長纖維絲’緯向絲以纖維素 系Μ纖維編織所得之織物時’可以包含先予以染色’並對 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝 - ---!|訂· —--11---产！ 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS&gt;A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 〜 j -9 - 445137 A7 B7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 五、發明說明（8) s = (A/B) X100 (2 )動摩擦係數 使用卡特科技公司製KES — SE，對1 cmxl cm 之摩擦面使用包覆3號砂布之棉布的2 5 g之摩擦頭，以 5 c m / m i η之速度於固定之裏子布料上滑動，由是時 之摩擦抵抗力以下式求得動摩擦係數（^)。式中，Α爲 摩擦抵抗力之平均値（g ) ，B爲摩擦頭之重量（g ).， 又，摩擦係數値爲於裏子布料經向絲方向滑動時之摩擦係 數，於緯向絲方向滑動時之摩擦係數平均値則稱裏子布料 之動摩擦係數= β = A / B (3 )緯向絲之撓曲率 緯向絲之撓曲率係於織物之緯向絲方向2 0 c m處加 蓋印記後，將織物分解取出後將緯向絲加掛〇 · 1 g / d 之重量並測定是時之長度S c m，再依下式求得其撓曲率 緯向絲之撓曲率（％ ) = { ( S - 2 〇 ) / 2 〇 i x 10 0 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝--- n i 訂---------嗖 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公笼） 445137 A7 B7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 五、發明說明（9) (4 )經向絲之密度（絲/英吋） 織物之密度’係計算織物1英吋中橫向絲之數目而得 〇 (5 )經向絲之纖度 織物之經向絲纖度’係將織物之經向絲加掛〇 . 1 g /d重量下製成2束長9 0 cm之樣品，在測得其重量 W ( g )後，並以下式求得其纖度。 經向絲之纖度（丹尼爾）= Wx9 0 〇 〇 〇 0/1 8 0 (6 )織物中緯方向之撓曲硬度 使用卡特科技公司製KES — FB2，對2〇cmx 2 0 cm之織物夾取長2 0 cm^l cm之有效樣品，於最 大彎曲率±2. 5cm丄，撓曲變形速度〇.5〇cm 1 之條件下進行彎曲時之，彎曲率與+0 . 5、+ 1 . 5 cm 1 (表側之撓曲）單位幅度之撓曲力距（g f · c ΐΉ / c m )的差値除以撓曲率（1 c m - 1 )所得之値（g f • c m 2 / c m )，與-〇 5、- 1 . 5 c m _ 1 (裏側 之撓曲）單位幅度之撓曲力距（g f · cm/cm)的差 値除以撓曲率（1 c m — 1 )所得之値（g f · c m 2 / c m )之平均値。 以下將詳細說明本發明之內容。 欲製得本發明目之可防止縫孔鬆脫且穿著時可防止壓 -12- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） -----til — — — i!lm ^---I! !攻 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 445 1 3 7 A7 ______B7___ 五、發明說明（1〇) 迫感之具有優良表面平滑性之裏子布料時，必須設計出裏 子布料之緯度方向之拉伸度與裏子布料表面之動摩擦係數 皆須在前記特定範圍內之織物。 即本發明中裏子布料之緯向拉仲度，以5〜1 2 %爲 佳，又以6〜1 0 %爲較佳。如前所述般，一般之外層布 料皆具有5〜1 0%之緯向拉伸度，而以往之裏子布料僅 具有3¾左右之拉伸度。作爲衣服實際穿用時，隨著皮膚 之拉伸該外層布料及裏子布料亦一倂被拉伸，而拉伸度較 小的裏子布料受到集中之應力後，除縫孔會產生鬆脫現象 以外對穿用者而言亦會因裏子布料而產生壓迫感。因此緯 向拉伸度未達5 %時，裏子布料並不能吸收所施加的應力 ，且作爲裙子穿用時，亦不能防止穿用者於坐息或蹲下時 所產生之縫孔鬆脫現象，此外，因裏子布料產生之應力亦 極高，對穿用者亦無法減輕其壓迫感。 緯向拉伸度未超過5¾時，加注於裏子布料之應力會 使裏子布料之裙擺及外層布料一齊向上拉，而使穿用感覺 較差。又，緯向拉伸度超過1 2¾之裏子布料，雖未有縫 孔鬆脫之問題，但因緯向絲之拉伸所產生撓曲度過大，此 所產生之表面凹凸形狀感極大，故會產生平滑性降低穿著 感覺不佳之裏子布料。特別是對裏子布料之經度方向進行 摩擦時，緯向絲因撓曲所產生之撓曲感極大，故亦會有較 厚、或有粗造之感覺，甚至會影響外層布料之剪裁度。 本發明之裏子布料爲滿足其表面之平滑性，故其裏子 布料表面之動摩擦係數需爲〇.20〜0·45之範圍。 -13- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公釐) (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝-----— II 訂·--- -----^ 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 445137 經濟部智慧財彦局員工消費合作社印製 Λ7 Β7 五、發明說明（11) 動摩擦係數中較佳之範圍，於各織物組織中皆不相同'一 般平織物組織時爲0 · 2 2〜0 4 5，斜紋織物組織時 爲0 . 2 0〜◦. 3 8，緞紋織物組織時爲〇 . 2 0〜 〇 . 3 5之範圍。 斜紋織物，緞紋織物組織之情形中，較平織物組織而 言經向絲較緯向絲多露出於表面之上，故對經向絲方向之 摩擦並个易受到緯向絲撓曲之影響，故經度方向之動摩擦 係數可爲較小之上記範圍。 未達0 . 2 0時，例如穿著裙子而坐於椅子上時，常 因外層布料或肌膚或褲襪等過於平滑，而會使裙子之裙擺 部分等容易滑動而造成容易由椅子滑落等身體不易固定之 障礙。又’若裏？布料超過0 · 4 5之動摩擦係數時，因 肌膚或褲襪等平滑性不足而會造成裙子等之穿脫不易之情 形’而作爲夾克或風衣之裏子布料時，常因與裡面所穿著 之襯衫或T恤間之平滑性不足，而成爲穿著感不佳之衣物 本發明即是爲使裏子布料兼Μ緯向伸度及平滑性，且 具有柔軟之觸感、及滿足裏子布料之耐摩擦之機械物理性 質（例如’ I大丨摩擦所產生之緯向絲縫孔扭曲、變形等）， 而將下記式（1 )所示之織物單位之撓曲係數限定於特定 之範圍中。巾下式內容可/解，織物單位之撓曲係數，係 於織物之緯问拉伸度與經向絲之外在因素（織物表面上經 向絲所佔之面積比例）中可特定裏子布料表面構造之參數 本紙張反度適用中國國豕標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公爱） ----------- - --------訂 *--------^ (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) -14- 445137 Λ7 B? 絲之纖度）Y·· (1) 五、發明說明（12) 緯向絲之撓曲率/ {經向絲密度X (經向 本發明之f布料’係將織物緯向絲單位撓曲係數設 疋於0 · 0 0 3〜0 · 〇 1 3爲佳。織物緯向絲單位撓曲 係數β較佳數値係依織物組織形態而有所不同。例如於平 織物組織時爲0 . 〇 〇 4〜〇 . i 3 ，斜紋織物組織時爲 0 · 0 0 3〜0 ,〇〇 1工，緞紋織物組織時爲 〇 0 0 3〜0 . 0 〇 9之範圍。織物緯向絲單位擒曲係 數値小於0 . 0 0 3時，可能會造成緯向絲之撓曲率極小 ，或即使緯向絲之撓曲較大但經向絲之密度亦大’或經向 絲之纖度較大之情形時’在前者之情形下僅能得到緯向拉 伸度較小之裏子布料。後者之情形時，因經向絲之外在因 素過大故會使裏子布料過硬，而無法得到柔軟且觸感極佳 之裏子布料。又此時經向絲之外在因素較大故即使緯向絲 之撓曲形狀較大，緯向絲亦會受到經向絲所拘束，而無法 得到預期的緯向絲之撓曲率。又，超過〇 . 〇 1 3時，因 緯向絲之撓曲率較人，或經向絲之密度較小或形成經向絲 纖电較小的織物結構，故會形成經向絲之外在因素較小ΰ 韋丨I i]絲爲非常弛緩之織物結構。因此，裏子布料中經向絲 方向受到摩擦時會形成表面平滑性不佳之裏子布料，又因 裏子布料中經向絲之外在因素較小，故特別是在經向絲方 向受到摩擦時會使緯向絲產生變形或縫孔鬆脫現象。 此外，本發明之裏子布料，其裏子布料中緯方向之撓 卜紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（2J0 X 297公爱） — — — — — — — — — I -—111-- I I I I--l_r (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印f 15- r 445137 A7 B7 五、發明說明（13) (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 曲硬度以0 . 030gi · cm2/cm以下時爲佳。緯方 向之撓曲硬度超過0 _ 〇30gf · cm2/cm時，裏子 布料爲一種觸感極硬之織物。特別是本發明之裏子布料在 緯方向具有5〜1 2 %之伸度，故在緯向絲之撓曲率C緯 向絲之彎曲）較大之特性外，緯向絲亦會有變形之傾向。 因此，較以往緯向拉伸度小於3 %之裏子布料而言，使經 向絲密度增加之經向絲的外在因素必須增加，其結果亦會 增大經度方向之撓曲硬度。 爲達到裏子布料之柔軟度，緯度方向之撓曲程度以 ◦ . 0 3 0 g f · c m 2/ c m以下時即可以得到觸感極爲 柔軟之裏子布料。 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印*!Λ 裏子布料中緯方向之撓曲硬度爲0 . 0 3 0 g ί ♦ c m2/ c m以下時，因過度柔軟而會與肌膚上之內衣纏繞 ，而無法得到舒服之穿著感。緯方向之撓曲硬度中較佳者 ，係緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲所得之裏子布 料，其緯度方向之撓曲硬度爲0 . 025g ί · cm2/ c m以下之軟質表面材料並不會損及剪裁·^緯向絲使用聚 酯系長纖維之原絲時之緯度方向撓曲硬度的調整方法，將 於以F裏子布料之製法內容中詳細說明。例如可選擇柔軟 之作爲緯向絲之聚酯系長纖維原絲，以將裏子布料中緯向 絲拉伸度及撓曲硬度調整至前述之數値範圍。緯向絲由纖 維素系長纖維所形成之裏子布料，其較佳之撓曲硬度爲 0 . 03〇gf · cin2/cm 以下。 使用本發明之裏子布料時ί即可避免以往製作裏子布 -16- 本紙張尺度適用申國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（2]0 * 297公釐） 經&quot;部智慧財J局員Η消費合作社印制衣 445137 Λ7 ----------— B7__ 五 '發明說明（14) 料時所必須縫製於裏子布料中之「摺布」，而可製得可防 止縫孔脫Ji Μ有優良穿著感之服飾。裏子布料中之Γ摺 布」，係指於爲提尚每者舒適感所製得之較表層布料爲寬 鬆之裏子布料的裁剪縫孔附近，將裏子布料作揺疊縫紹以 使裏子布料貝有更佳寬限度之裁縫方式。但，使用本發明 之裏子布料時，可使裏子布料在省卻「摺布」部分下，使 裏子布料之緯向拉伸度產生適度之寬限度，而提高穿著之 Α予適感fl可防止縫孔之％脫情形因此，使用本發叨之裏 子布料時，裏子布料並不需要設置「摺布」部分，故在縫 孔附近小需再將裏子布料作摺疊载製，而可使縫製步驟更 趨合理化。 本發明之裏子布料織物組織’例如有平織、斜紋織、 鍛紋織等情形1而究係要採用何種織物組織作爲裏子布料 ’則必須依裏子布料之用途或所需具備之特性作適當之選 擇。例如’婦女服飾時則必須爲柔軟輕薄等觸感良好的裏 子布料’故以平織組織之裏子布料爲佳。 用於作爲本發明裏子布料織物經向絲之聚酯系長纖維 ，例如可使用聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二 ί掉酯、聚對苯二Φ酸三甲酯等均聚物，或與此些聚合物所 成之聚酯共聚物等Μ有纖維成型性之聚酯聚合物所形成之 繊維。纖維中，可依需要添加抗電劑、難燃劑、耐熱劑、 耐光劑、鉍化鈦等添加劑。纖維之截面形狀並未有特別之 限制，除圓型以外，例如可爲二角型、L型、Υ型、Τ型 等多角型狀，或爲多葉型、中空型、扁平型等形狀皆可。 ------------ - I I ----I-------^ (請先閱讀背面之注音？事項再填寫本頁) 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公1 ) -17- 445 13 7 a? B7 五、發明說明（15) (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 用於經向絲之纖維素系長纖維，例如銅胺法之人纖、 黏膠法之人纖、咼絲膜量黏藤纖維（polynosic rayon )或 醋酸纖維等等。 用於經向絲之聚酯系長纖維 '纖維素系長纖維等之總 丹尼爾數爲30〜120丹尼爾（d) ·_較佳爲50〜 1 〇〇d，單絲之纖度並未有特別之限定，但以〇 . 5〜 l〇d，較佳爲0 . 5〜5d爲宜。 此些經向絲以無撚絲之原絲（直絲紗）爲最佳，但爲 提高絲之收縮性，可對長纖絲作輕度之撚紗（1 〇〜--200 丁/ Μ左右）或交織（interlace )加工，或假撚或 空氣噴射加工等之捲縮加工處理等。若爲得到特別之表面 加工、觸感效果時，亦可使用強撚所得之經向絲。 本發明中用於緯向絲之纖維，爲聚酯系長纖維之假撚 加工絲或聚酯系長纖維之原絲或纖維素系長纖維等。經向 絲與緯向絲等纖維材料之組合中並沒有任何限制，但舉出 下記組合所得之纖維作爲例示。 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 (1 )經向絲爲聚醋系長纖維1 0 0 % '緯向絲爲聚 酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲1 0 0 %或聚酯系長纖維之原絲 10 0¾ ，或纖維素系長纖維1 0 0 %之織物。 (2 )經向絲爲纖維素系長纖維1 0 0 % ，緯向絲爲 聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲1 〇 〇 %或聚酯系長纖維之原 絲1 0 0 % ，或纖維素系長纖維1 0 0 %之織物。 (3 )經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維與纖維素系長纖維，緯 向絲爲聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲1 0 0 %或聚酯系長纖 ___-18-_ 本纸張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 445 彳 3 7 A7 B7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消貲合作社印制^ 五、發明說明（17) 實施發明之最佳形態 以下將說明使用各種緯向絲製作適合本發明之裏子布 料之方法。 〔1〕緯向絲爲聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲時 緯向絲所使用之聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲，一般並 沒有特別之限定。緯向絲只要是一般以工業生產規模所.生 產之假撚絲即可。例如，依一般假撚加工所使用之紡錘方 式或外接式摩擦假撚方式、皮帶假撚方式等所得之加工絲 皆可以使用。假撚加工條件上並沒有特別之限定，例如可 使用單加熱器加工絲或雙加熱器加工絲皆可。可控制假撚 加工絲捲縮性之假撚條件，例如有假撚數、第1加熱器溫 度、第2加熱器溫度、第2加熱器喂紗率等條件，但並不 一定僅限於此些條件。 又’用於緯向絲之假撚加工絲，若希望提高其收束性 時可施以交之加工或撚絲加工處理。作爲假撚加工使用之 原絲並未有任何限定條件’其可使用例如聚對苯二甲酸乙 二醇酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二醇酯、聚對苯二甲酸三甲酯等 均聚物等具有纖維成型性之聚酯聚合物所成之纖維，以紡 絲方法區分時則可使用常用之紡絲方法所製得之延伸絲或 部分延伸絲、未延伸絲、高速紡絲法所或紡絲拉伸法所得 之絲。該聚酯聚合物除均聚物以外亦可含有共聚物。纖維 -20- 本紙張尺度.適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 x 297公釐） ------ - ---- ϋ I I--^ * I---I---^ i請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧財產局員Η消費合作社印- A7 B7 五、發明說明（18) 中也添加抗電劑、難燃記、耐熱劑、耐光劑、氧化鈦等添 加劑。纖維之截面形狀並無特別之限定，除圓型以外，例 如可爲三角型、L型、Y型' T型等多角型狀，或爲多葉 型、中空型、扁平型等具有不定彤狀之纖維皆可。 欲同時達到使織物緯向伸度與表面平滑性兼得之目的 時’如所述般，以經向絲及緯向絲呈緊崩之狀態下的加工 絲因會產生捲曲故必須進行組織收縮之加工處理。即，編 織後之原料織布在精練前或精練後，若對經度方向或緯度 方向在緊繃狀態下進行寬度收縮處理的同時，一倂進行熱 處理時，可製得一種可抑制皺折產生、表面不具凹凸感， 且具有5〜1 2¾緯向拉伸度之裏子布料織物。 即’聚酯系長纖維或纖維素系長纖維所形成之經向絲 ’與由聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲形成之緯向絲所構成之 織物’對製織後之織物寬度而言，於精練前或精練後產生 5〜1 5%寬度收縮之狀態下，進行1 6 0〜2 1 0°C之 熱處理後，即可產生具有本發明特定構造與功能之裏子布 料= 5〜1 5 %寬度收縮之處理，係指製織時經向絲密度 最終製品上之經向絲密度差較大之意，本發明之經度方 向擠壓率爲5 %以下，即，並不大幅增強緯向絲密度而以 緯方向向經方向之緊繃狀態下進行寬度收縮處理，如此， 可由增加經向絲密度而達到使織物組織產生收縮之目的。 寬度收縮，例如使用一般織物加工時所使用之針板拉 幅型熱定型機之熱處理機進行熱處理時，係於製織後使織 _ 一 - 21 - 本紙張&amp;度適用中闼國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公釐） (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 4^----- ! I 訂·--I — 11 — 445137 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印製 A7 B7 五、發明說明（19〉 物兩端呈固定狀態下再進行熱處理，且係對該以固定寬度 製織後之寬度更爲狹窄之方式對經度方向進行緊繃之處理 。此時所必要之寬度收縮率爲5〜15¾ 。又較佳之緯向 寬度收縮範圍，則依用於緯向絲之假撚加工絲爲以單加熱 器進行假撚所得之加工絲，或爲以雙加熱器進行假撚所得 之加工絲而有所不同。此點乃因各自假撚加工絲中加工絲 本身之乾熱收縮率與因捲縮產生之乾熱收縮率並不相同所 造成之現象。使用雙加熱器之假撚加工絲時，以採用5〜 1 0 %之寬度收縮率爲佳，使用單加熱器之假撚加工絲時 ，則以採用7〜1 5 %之寬度收縮率爲佳。以低於5 %之 寬度收縮率進行熱處理時，會造成需賦予緯向拉伸度之組 織收縮降低，而無法得到本發明之拉伸織物。以超過1 5 %以上之寬度收縮率進行熱處理時，因熱處理階段中不會 造成緊繃狀態，故織物係以鬆散之狀態下進行熱處理，故 會產生皺折等問題點或表面會有強烈之凹凸感、緯向絲彎 曲造成縫孔扭曲等不愉快之問題產生。 本發明中製織後對織物之熱處理，係於所使用之假撚 加工絲因產生捲縮而被緊繃之同時，對產生之捲縮進行熱 固定之作用。此熱處理若未對假撚加工絲進行充分之熱固 定時，熱處理後於各步驟（例如精練或染色步驟）所產生 之捲縮將會造成織物之組織收縮，使裏子布料產生皺折及 不平滑之厚重感。此時所產生之皺折，即使在最後修飾步 驟中再進行緊繃之熱處理時，亦不能完全消除。產生捲縮 及可充分進行熱處理之溫度爲1 6 Ot〜2 1 0°C，又以 _-22-_ 本紙張尺度^用中國围家標準（CNS)A4規格(21CU 297公爱） -------- I— · ----- -- ^ ·ϋι — —— — — ·^ (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 445137 A7 _____B7______ 五、發明說明（2〇) 1 80°C〜200°C爲更佳。熱處理溫度未達1 6CTC時 ，假撚加工絲之捲縮產生及熱固定並不充分，因此會於其 後之精練或染色步驟中再度產生捲縮，造成皺折感極強之 表面平滑性不差之裏子布料。又，熱處理溫度超過2 1 0 °C時，因纖維受到熱產生之傷害極大，故作爲裏子布料時 會造成機械性降低、觸感極硬之織物。 熱處理時間，必須具有可將該聚酯系長纖維之假撚加 工絲產生捲縮及完全熱固定之時間，熱處理溫度過高時在 考量對纖維之傷害性時則以短時間爲佳，以低溫處理時_則 可以進行長時間之處理。 上記處理之方法中，只要具有可將織物之經/緯方向 繃緊處理之裝置即可，又以一般織物進行熱處理時所常用 之二端具有夾子之針板拉幅型熱定型機爲佳。 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 本發明中所稱之精練，係指將附著於製織後織物之油 漬或橫向絲糊劑等去除之步驟，精練所使用之處理液只要 含有水或界面活性劑與鹼之水溶液即可。精練之方法並沒 有特別之限定。精練可使用一般織物精練時所常使用之加 熱濕潤型連續精練機、液流型染色機、懸垂型連續處理機 、蝶翼式染色機、軟式精練機等等。 將精練前爲5〜1 5 %寬度收縮狀態之織物經1 6 0 t〜2 1 Ο ΐ熱處理後再進行精練之情形中，因已提供一 種已將假撚加工絲作爲捲縮狀態之織物，故可增加上記精 練機中鬆弛之效果，而不論使用液流染色機或蝶翼染色機 等精練機時皆可得到本發明之裏子布料。若寬度收縮熱處 _______-23- 本紙張又度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（2〗〇χ 297公釐） 445137 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 A7 B7 五、發明說明（21) 理前先以鬆弛效果較大之精練機處理後再進行熱處理時， 因經過鬆弛處理故假撚加工絲產生較多之捲縮 &gt; 而無法達 到本發明之裏子布料。 寬度收縮熱處理前進行精練時，則以使用例如加熱濕 潤型連續精練機般對織物之經度方向與緯度方向施加張力 之狀態下再進行處理之裝置爲佳。若使用液流型染色機、 懸垂型連續處理機等未對織物之經向絲方向及緯向絲方向 施加張力之裝置進行精練時，因織物表面會產生皺折故爲 不佳之裝置。使用加熱濕潤型連續精練機進行精練時，爲 使假撚加工絲產生捲縮之情形抑制至最小，故處理溫度以 4 ◦〜6 0 °C之低溫爲佳。但此時經向絲中糊劑及油劑脫 落情形並不充分，故應在寬度收縮熱處理後再度予以精練 處理= 欲製得更佳之本發明裏子布料之方法，以精練前先進 行寬度收縮熱處理爲佳。本方法，具有即使在以後精練步 驟中使用上述裝置時，亦可達到本發明之目的之優點，且 可得到表面具平滑性且具有優良厚實感之裏子布料。 本發明方法中熱處理以後之步驟，一般可附加裏子布 料加工步驟中之染色、修飾等步驟。爲使觸感柔軟化時， 可於染色前實施鹼減量加工之步驟。本發明之裏子布料即 使爲提昇緯方向之拉伸性而實施鹼減量加工步驟時’於實 際穿用時也不會產生縫孔鬆脫之問題。 本發明之對以聚酯系長纖維1 0 0%所構成之裏子布 料所進行之染色加工法，可依一般對以聚酯系長纖維 -24- 本紙張尺度適用中®國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 x 297公釐） ---I-------i I I I I — I ^ i I ---1 I I (請先閱讀背面之';t意事項再填寫本頁) 445137 經濟部智慧財產局員Η消費合作祍印製 A7 B7 s、發明說明（22) 1 0 0 %所構成之裏子布料進行之染色加工法進行。染色 例如可使用液流型染色機、杰格式染色機、經軸染色機、 蝶翼染色機等染色機，但以染色品之水準觀之，以使用液 流染色機爲佳。整理加工之步驟，與染色品相同般，可使 用一般對以聚酯系長纖維1 〇 〇 %所構成之裏子布料進行 之整理加工之方法。但應注意的是，若爲使最後之修飾步 驟不產生皺折時，應以針板拉幅型熱定型機進行熱處理。 此時，拉幅比例過大時，則會產生較預定緯向拉伸度爲低 之裏子布料=例如對染色後之寬度作1〜3 c m左右之拉 幅時，則可使皴折消除。在整理加工步驟中，可任意添加 作爲修飾劑之靜電防止劑、撥水劑、吸汗劑等。又爲改善 織物表面之光澤、平滑性、觸感時，可在添加修飾劑後再 進行其他表面平滑處理等皆可》 本發明之由纖維素系長纖維/聚酯系長纖維之假撚加 工絲構成之交織裏P布料，其染色加工步驟係首先依上記 方法進行相同之精練及聚酯系長纖維之染色後，若仍對纖 維紊系長纖維必須進行染色時，則可以使用與聚酯系長纖 維染色時所使用之相同染色機進行染色，或使用黃金浸滲 染色法或軋蒸法或杰格染色法等皆可。 染色結朿後之修飾步驟，一般以對纖維束纖維進行加 i: ’例如爲提高洗灌收縮率、濕摩擦牢固度等之樹脂加工 處理皆可隨時進行。 2〕緯向絲爲聚酯系長纖維之原絲時 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210^ 297公釐） -25- -t--------訂. — — — — i·^ (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧財J局員工消費合作社印製 445 丨 3 7 A7 _____B7 五、發明說明（23 ) 以下將說明緯向絲爲聚酯系長纖維之原絲時之較佳製 法= 緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維之原絲（直紗絲）所成之織 物，若織物具有拉伸性時則可得到一種更具有柔軟的觸感 ，可提高面平滑性及不會產生厚實感之具有優良平滑性之 裏子布料。 此一方法係基於，一般原料織物階段時爲提高織物結 構內緯向絲之撓曲率，除爲增強各個緯向拉伸度而必須增 加緯向絲之撓曲性外，尙需進行可使經/緯向絲之交織.力 降低之寬度收縮熱處理，如此即可經由緯向之拉伸使組織 收縮增大之原理產生。 原料織物狀態下之緯向絲的撓曲率以1 , 5 %以上， 又以2 %爲更佳。緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維原絲之以往的 裏子布料原料織物，其緯向絲之撓曲率爲1 %以下，若使 用具有1 . 5 %以上緯向絲撓曲率之柔軟原絲時，經進行 5〜3 0%寬度收縮熱處理後，即可得到本發明之裏子布 料。 特別是使用柔軟之原絲作爲緯向絲時之織物，若於精 練前或精練後以對織物寬度爲5〜3 0 %寬度收縮之狀態 下進行1 6 0〜2 1 0 °C熱處理後’可使緯向絲形成規則 且強固之撓曲狀態，經此撓曲之伸縮現象可使裏子布料產 生較高之緯向拉伸性。 此外’因使用原絲故於經度方向上亦不會使手有粗造 感或平滑性不足之感覺。 本紙張尺度埤用中國國家標準（CNSM4規格（210 x 297公笼） 26 ------1--I I t ------訂------I I — &lt;請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 445137 A7 B7 五 '發明說明（24) 5〜3 0%之寬度收縮熱處理，係指製織時經向絲密 度與最終製品上之經向絲密度差較大之意，本發明之方法 中原料織物階段中係使用緯向絲之撓曲率爲1 . 5 %以上 之織物，若經度方向之擠壓爲5%以下時，即，並不會大 幅增強緯向絲密度而以緯方向向經方向之緊繃狀態下進行 寬度收縮處理，如此，可由增加經向絲密度而達到使織物 組織產生收縮以達發明之目的。 本發明中所稱之寬度收縮，例如使用一般織物加工時 所使用之針板拉幅型熱定型機之熱處理機進行熱處理時-係於製織後或精練後使織物兩端呈固定狀態下再進行熱處 理，良係對該以固定寬度製織後或精練後之織物寬度更爲 狹窄之方式對經度方向進行緊繃之處理。 寬度收縮率*一般爲5〜15% ，更佳爲10〜25 %之範圍。寬度收縮率之範圍與一般用於緯向絲之原絲之 柔軟程度並不相同。又，因受到原絲本身之乾熱收縮率之 影響，故在調查原絲之物性下，而在5〜3 0 %之範圍選 擇最佳之寬度收縮率爲佳。 寬度收縮率低於5 %時僅可得到緯向拉伸率小於5 % 之裏子布料。緯向拉伸率小於5 %時，於裏子布料中之縫 孔鬆脫防止效果則與目前使用之裏子布料相同。寬度收縮 率超過3 0 %時，因織物之寬方向不會產生緊繃狀態，故 織物會產生皺折、或緯向絲之孔目會有較大之扭曲變形等 產生。又，緯向絲之撓曲較大故會形成具有緯向絲浮凸結 構之裏子布料。因而會形成具有粗造穿著感的裏子布料， -27- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐&gt; (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) --------^ ilml! 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印- 445137 A7 ___B7_ 五、發明說明（25) 而爲不佳之方法。 本發明中製織後對織物之熱處理，係經由緯方向之組 織收縮而增加經向絲之密度，因此確實增加緯方向撓曲性 與，將緯向絲充分進行熱固定以形成強固之撓曲方式爲此 方法中主要之步驟。 此熱處理若未對原絲進行充分之熱固定時，熱處理後 於各步驟（例如精練或染色步驟）中若有施加熱量時，將 會造成緯向絲本身產生收縮而成爲拉伸度較低之裏子布料 。且會使裏子布料產生皺折。此時所產生之皺折，即使在 最後修飾步驟中再進行緊繃之熱處理時，亦不能完全消除 0 可充分進行組織收縮及熱固定之熱處理之溫度，較佳 爲1 6 0°C〜2 1 Ot，又以1 80°c〜2 00 °C爲更佳 。熱處理溫度未達1 6 0 °C時，對緯向絲之熱固定並不充 分，而會產生緯向拉伸度不足或產生皺折等問題。熱處理 溫度超過2 1 0 t：時，因經向絲、緯向絲受到熱之傷害而 會使裏子布料之機械性降低、而成爲剛性較高且觸感極硬 之裏子布料。 用於緯向絲之聚酯系長纖維之原絲，例如可使用以匯 聚法、紡紗捲取（spin-draw up )法、高速紡絲法等紡紗所 得之紗’且不經過假撚、擠壓、賦型、編織拆散法（]^1^ de-kmt )、流體噴射加工等捲縮加工處理之絲。其中，此 一原絲可使用爲增加收束性之經交織加工所得之絲或輕度 捻紗之絲。聚酯系長纖維之原絲，例如可使用聚對苯二甲 本紙張尺度適用中®國家標準（CNS〉A4規格（210 x 297公楚） -28- (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝---1! I 訂·--------0 M A » ^ Η — ， ii-4D ι J ί Α7445 彳 3 7 A7 Printed by the Consumers ’Cooperative of the 1st Bureau of Wisdom and Finance of the Ministry of Economic Affairs B7 V. Description of the Invention (1) [Technical Field] The present invention relates to a kind of anti-skid performance with extremely good slits and can reduce the feeling of pressure when worn. The lining fabric is, in detail, about a polyester long fiber with elasticity in the latitude direction, extremely soft touch, and excellent surface smoothness. 100% lining fabric and long cellulose fiber Ester-based long fibers are interwoven, and cellulose-based long fibers are 100 ° /. The invention of lining cloth. [Technical Background] The fiber materials currently used as fabric linings can generally be divided into two types: polyester long fibers and cellulose long fibers. The fabric made of 100% polyester long fibers is cheaper than the fabric made of 100% long cellulose fibers. It has low tensile, flexibility, and friction properties. After being washed, it has the advantages of dimensional stability and few appearance changes. Therefore, it accounts for about 80% of the total lining cloth used in Japan. However, the lining fabric made of 100% long cellulose fibers has better moisture absorption than polyester long fiber lining fabrics, and has the advantages of sweat-absorbent 'antistatic properties' and smoothness. The high-quality woman's dress is a lining cloth with a high rating. In addition, lining fabrics obtained by interweaving these filaments in order to concentrate the advantages of polyester-based long fibers and cellulose-based long fibers have also been commercialized. In recent years, under the influence of the importance of the comfort of clothing and the popularity of tailoring, the outer fabric used in dresses has gradually become the mainstream of outer fabrics, and the inner fabrics are also used for lifting clothes. This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 specifications (210 * 297 meals) 4 I--I --------. I--11-I --- 11 --- Therefore (please first Read the notes on the back and fill out this page) Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 445137 A7 _B7_ V. Description of the invention (2) The comfort of the clothing, but it has been soft and does not damage the outer fabric Commercialization of comfortable lining fabrics. Generally, a method of preparing a soft and comfortable lining cloth is used in many ways. It can reduce the density of warp / weft yarns to make fine denier of cellulose-based long fibers, or it can be made by improving the dyeing process. Among them, "especially when a lining fabric made of 100% polyester-based long fibers is produced" is used more than a high-concentration caustic soda solution to reduce the weight and make it soft to the touch. Child cloth. Among the lining fabrics for weight reduction processing, there are also high-weight reduction products with a reduction rate of 10 to 20%. They have excellent softness and fluffy touch, so they are often used in lining fabrics for higher-level clothing. The softening of the touch obtained by weight reduction is a method of making polyester fibers hydrolyzed in an alkaline solution to make the fibers smaller, but a gap is formed between the warp and weft yarns constituting the fabric, and A gap will also be formed between the multi-fiber yarns constituting the warp and weft yarns, which will reduce the tensile rigidity, flexural rigidity, shear rigidity and other properties of the fabric, and make the fabric feel soft and comfortable. Sense and other effects. Moreover, the lining fabric that has undergone high weight reduction treatment 'has a soft touch on the other side, because a gap is formed between warp and weft threads'. Therefore, when wearing clothes, it is often caused by a large tensile force 'shearing force' Warp yarns or weft yarns are extremely easy to slide, and the problem caused by actual wearing is that there are shortcomings that the slits of the lining fabric are easily loosened. The looseness referred to here means that when external stress is applied to the slits of the fabric, the warp or weft yarns with the slits as the boundary will move. 'In severe cases, the slits will break. . This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) &lt; Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page &gt; Packing—— Order II ——- 1! ^ A7 B7 445137 V. Description of the invention (3) (Please read the precautions on the back before filling in this (Page) A representative example of a garment that actually has loose seams, such as the tight skirt of a normal woman. Tight skirts pay attention to the touch with the skin. Therefore, the lining fabric has almost no "bending" fabric. Therefore, the lining fabric has minimal expansion and contraction according to the size of the body. Therefore, if the action is too intense during walking or sitting, it will often cause The slits are stretched to cause them to come loose. In order to avoid the phenomenon of loosening of seams and holes, generally, methods such as increasing the fiber density of the warp and weft threads of the fabric, and using a slip prevention agent to increase the friction between the fibers are used. The density of the weft silk fiber will have the opposite effect to the soft touch ', so that although the anti-slipping agent has a short-term effect, it will fall off after long-term washing and make its effect permanently disappear. * The inventors, In order to provide a lining fabric that has a soft touch and has seams to prevent loosening, the reason for the pores of the lining fabric used in skirts is to loosen the outer layer of hundreds of commercial products. Various analyses were conducted on the cloth and lining cloth, and the following conclusions were obtained. When printed by the consumer cooperative of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, the Bureau of Staff and Workers, the outer fabric and the inner fabric are stretched at a rate of 500 g / cm when measured in the mid-latitude direction of the fabric, compared to most outer fabrics. About 10% of fabric, lining fabric has only about 3% stretch. Therefore, for clothing with lining fabric, if the outer fabric is stretched, the stress on the fabric material is small, but it will cause great stress on the lining fabric. Among the parts of the lining fabric, the weakest part of the stress is the seam hole portion, so this point may be the main reason for the pores of the lining fabric to be easily loosened. For example, the lining cloth in the hip position of the skirt is stitched according to the longitude direction, so if there is a stress in the latitude direction, the longitude side will be made -6- This paper size applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A ·! Specifications (210 * 297 mm) 445137 A7 — B7 V. Description of the invention (4) Looseness occurs in the seam hole. Especially in lining fabrics that have been subjected to alkaline weight reduction processing for the purpose of achieving a soft touch, the fibrous filaments in the fabric structure are often difficult to fix, so the seams are more likely to become loose. Therefore, if the inner fabric has the same latitudinal stretch of the outer fabric, the seams will not easily become loose, and the cutting style of the outer fabric will not be changed. In the past, the design of the stretchability of the lining fabric in the latitudinal direction. When wearing clothing with a lining fabric, for example, a woman wearing a short skirt sits on a chair or a tram seat. The upward shrinkage of this material may be caused by the uncoordinated stress between the outer fabric and the inner fabric. 100% polyester long-fiber woven fabrics that have stretchability in the weft direction, for example, as disclosed in JP-A Sho 5 3 — 1 3 0 3 6 3, JP 1-21261, JP Sho 58—115144, etc. There are fabrics or processing methods using false-twisted yarns so that the latitude elongation is 15% or more. Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 5 3-1 3 0 3 6 3 describes that when using a false-twist-processed yarn produced under specific conditions, a surface roughness can be made small and a high elongation of 1 5¾ or more can be obtained. Of the fabric. It is a fabric with a large structure that has a large degree of deflection in the false twist processing yarn of the weft yarn, and the weft yarn floats on the surface of the fabric more than the warp yarn. Therefore, it is a lining fabric with a thick texture and a thick feel, and has a low smoothness as an important function of the lining fabric. Therefore, it is a fabric that feels extremely poor when wearing clothes. Special Fair 1 — 2 1 2 2 6 1 In the bulletin, a weft stretching method is disclosed. The paper size applies Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 cm). &lt; Please read the notes on the back before filling this page) ---- Order -------- Printed by the Ministry of Economic Affairs J. Bureau Consumer Cooperatives A7 B7 445137 V. Description of Invention (5) It can be stretched by more than 15% for the purpose of processing method, but the fabric produced by it still has a very poor rough feeling, so it is extremely unsuitable as a lining fabric. {Please read the precautions on the back before filling out this page.) JP 58-1 1 5 1 44 discloses a fabric that has a stretch of more than 15% in both the warp and weft directions, but it is also an extremely Rough lining cloth. In addition, Japanese Patent Publication No. 7-7 8 7 2 3 discloses that a weft yarn uses a polyester-based long-fiber raw yarn that can produce a soft (soft and fluffy) lining fabric with excellent smoothness. . However, the elongation of the lining fabric in the mid-latitude direction is less than 4%. As explained in the previous description, this elongation does not help to prevent the loosening of the seams and reduce the effect of pressure when wearing. From the foregoing reasons, it is understood that, according to the current technology, woven fabrics using polyester filaments or cellulose-based filaments as weft yarns cannot produce lining fabrics with moderate weft stretchability. The object of the present invention is to provide a lining fabric obtained from a long-fiber fabric having a good lining function, which has excellent slip-proof performance of seams and is not compressive when worn, and has a smooth skin contact feeling. Another objective of the present invention is printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, which is to provide a polyester long fiber 100% lining cloth with improved function mentioned above, and a cellulose long fiber and a polyester long fiber. Interwoven lining fabrics and 100% lining fabrics made of cellulose-based long fibers. Another important object of the present invention is to provide a 100% polyester long fiber fabric, a polyester long fiber and cellulose long fiber interwoven fabric, and a 100% cellulose long fiber fabric. Manufacturing method of lining fabric made of long-fiber fabric with improved lining function described in the previous note-8-This paper size applies to China Standard S (CNS) A4 (210 x 297 mm) Employees of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Printed by the Consumer Cooperative in May, 1990. Amendment A7 B7 4 45 1 # f8102999 Patent Application Chinese Specification Revised Page V. Description of the Invention (6) The inventors, based on the understanding of the foregoing, made the Weft elongation began to be studied, and when the proper selection of the deflection of the weft yarn in the fabric constituting the lining fabric was studied, that is, the pj reached the long fiber lining fabric of the invention, because The present invention has been completed. That is, the invention is a kind of warp yarn using polyester-based long fiber or cellulose-based long fiber, and weft yarn using polyester-based long-fiber false-twisted yarn or polyester-based long fiber. Cellulose is a fabric made of long fibers. The latitude in the latitude direction of the fabric is 5 to 12%, and the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is in the range of 0. 2 0 to 0. 45. The unit weft of the fabric is obtained according to the following formula (1). The curvature coefficient 値 is from 0. 〇03 to 0. 013. Deflection of weft yarns / {Warp yarn density X (Density of warp yarns ... (1) The inner fabric of the present invention can be widely used as plain fabric, twill fabric, satin fabric, etc.- The fabric structure is used for weaving as a fabric. The inner fabric of the present invention, warp yarn, is a long filament yarn previously described, and the weft yarn is knitted with polyester M fiber false twisted processing yarn or polyester fiber. The fabric may include dyeing first, and before or after refining, with a width shrinkage ratio of 5 to 30% of the width of the raw fabric, subjected to a heat treatment of 1 6 0 &quot; C ~ 2 1 0 ° C It can be obtained by processing method. In addition, the warp warp yarn has previously stated that the fixed-length fiber yarn 'weft yarn is woven with cellulose-based M fiber', and can be dyed first, and (please read the note on the back first) Please fill in this page for more details) Packing----! | Order · --- 11 --- Production! This paper size applies to Chinese national standard (CNS &gt; A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) ~ j -9-445137 A7 B7 Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economy V. Invention Description (8) s = (A / B) X10 0 (2) KES — SE manufactured by Carter Technology Co., Ltd. is used for the dynamic friction coefficient, and a friction head of 2.5 g covered with cotton cloth No. 3 is used for the friction surface of 1 cmxl cm, which is fixed at a speed of 5 cm / mi η Sliding on the cloth, the dynamic friction coefficient (^) is obtained from the friction resistance of the time. In the formula, A is the average friction resistance 力 (g), and B is the weight of the friction head (g). The coefficient of friction 値 is the coefficient of friction when sliding in the warp direction of the lining cloth, and the average coefficient of friction when sliding in the direction of the weft yarn 値 is called the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining cloth = β = A / B (3) The deflection of the weft yarn is stamped at 20 cm in the weft direction of the fabric. After the fabric is disassembled and taken out, the weft yarn is hung with a weight of 0.1 g / d and the time is determined. Length S cm, and then calculate the deflection of the zonal wire (%) = {(S-2 〇) / 2 〇ix 10 0 (please read the precautions on the back before filling this page). --- ni Order --------- 嗖 This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 male cage) 445137 A 7 B7 Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs V. Invention Description (9) (4) Density of warp yarn (silk / inch) Density of fabric is calculated by counting the number of horizontal yarns in 1 inch of fabric 〇 (5) Warp yarn fineness The warp yarn fineness of the fabric is that the warp yarn of the fabric is hung at a weight of 0.1 g / d to make 2 bundles of 90 cm in length, and the weight W is measured. (g), and then obtain the fineness using the following formula. Fineness of warp yarns (Denier) = Wx9 0 0 0 0 0/1 8 0 (6) The flexural hardness of the fabric in the mid-latitude direction Use KES-FB2, manufactured by Cater Technology, to clamp the fabric of 20 cm x 20 cm When the effective sample with a length of 20 cm ^ l cm is bent under the conditions of a maximum bending rate of ± 2.5 cm 丄 and a bending deformation speed of 0.50 cm 1, the bending rate is +0.5, +1. The difference between the deflection force distance (gf · c ΐΉ / cm) per unit amplitude of 5 cm 1 (surface deflection) divided by the deflection (1 cm-1), and (gf • cm 2 / cm), and -〇5,-1.5 cm _ 1 (inside deflection) The difference between the deflection force distance (gf · cm / cm) per unit amplitude divided by the deflection rate (1 cm — 1). cm 2 / cm). The content of the present invention will be described in detail below. To achieve the purpose of the present invention is to prevent the seams from loosening and to prevent pressure when wearing -12- This paper size is applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) ----- til — — — i! lm ^ --- I!! Attack (please read the precautions on the back before filling in this page) 445 1 3 7 A7 ______B7___ V. Description of the invention (1〇) The lining fabric with excellent surface smoothness and sense of pressure In this case, it is necessary to design a fabric in which the stretch in the latitudinal direction of the lining fabric and the coefficient of dynamic friction on the surface of the lining fabric must be within a specific range mentioned in the previous note. That is to say, the latitudinal degree of neutron fabric in the present invention is preferably 5 to 12%, and more preferably 6 to 10%. As mentioned above, outer fabrics generally have a weft stretch of 5 to 10%, while conventional lining fabrics only have a stretch of about 3¾. When actually worn as clothes, the outer fabric and inner fabric are also stretched as the skin stretches, and the less-stretched inner fabric is subjected to concentrated stress, which will cause loosening of the seams. In addition to the phenomenon, the wearer will also feel oppressed by the lining cloth. Therefore, when the weft stretch is less than 5%, the lining fabric cannot absorb the applied stress, and when worn as a skirt, it cannot prevent the wearer from loosening the seams when sitting or squatting. In addition, the stress caused by the lining fabric is extremely high, which can not reduce the pressure on the wearer. When the weft stretch does not exceed 5¾, the stress added to the lining fabric will pull the lining fabric's skirt and the outer fabric together to pull up, making the wearing feeling worse. In addition, for lining fabrics with a weft stretch of more than 1 2¾, although there is no problem of loosening of the seams, the degree of deflection caused by the weft stretch is too large, and the surface unevenness produced by this is extremely great. Therefore, there will be a smooth and low-quality cloth. Especially when rubbing the lining fabric in the longitude direction, the weft yarn has a great deflection sensation due to deflection, so it may feel thicker or rough, and may even affect the cutting degree of the outer fabric. In order to satisfy the smoothness of the surface of the lining cloth of the present invention, the dynamic friction coefficient of the surface of the lining cloth needs to be in the range of 0.20 to 0.45. -13- This paper size is in accordance with Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210x297 mm) (Please read the precautions on the back before filling out this page). ------------ Order II --------- -^ Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 445137 Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Office of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Λ7 Β7 V. Description of the invention (11) The better range of the coefficient of dynamic friction is different in each fabric organization 'General The range of plain fabric is 0 · 2 2 ~ 0 4 5; that of twill weave is 0.2 2 ~ 0. 3 8; and that of satin weave is 0.2 to 0 ~ 0.35. In the case of twill and satin weaves, warp yarns are more exposed on the surface than weft yarns compared to plain weaves, so friction in the warp yarn direction is easily affected by weft yarn deflection. Therefore, the dynamic friction coefficient in the longitude direction can be a small range. When it is less than 0.20, for example, when sitting on a chair while wearing a skirt, the outer fabric or skin or tights are often too smooth, which will cause the skirt of the skirt to slide easily and cause the body to slide off the chair. Obstacles that are not easy to fix. And ‘wori? When the fabric exceeds a coefficient of dynamic friction of 0 · 4 5, it may be difficult to put on and take off skirts and the like due to insufficient smoothness of the skin or pantyhose, etc. ' The lack of smoothness between shirts or T-shirts makes it a poorly worn piece of clothing. The present invention is to make the lining fabric have both zonal stretch and smoothness, and has a soft touch and meets the resistance of the lining fabric. The mechanical and physical properties of friction (such as the distortion and deformation of the zonal silk slits caused by the “I big 丨 friction”), and the deflection coefficient of the fabric unit shown in the following formula (1) is limited to a specific range. The content of the following formula of the towel can be interpreted. The deflection coefficient of the fabric unit depends on the external factor (the proportion of the area occupied by the warp threads on the fabric surface) in addition to the weft stretch of the fabric and the warp threads. The parameters of the surface structure of the cloth The reverse of this paper is applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 public love) -------------------- Order *- ------ ^ (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) -14- 445137 Λ7 B? The fineness of silk) Y ·· (1) V. Description of the invention (12) Deflection of weft yarn / {Warp yarn density X (f cloth in the warp direction of the present invention) is preferably set to a unit deflection coefficient of the fabric weft yarn at 0 · 0 0 3 ~ 0 · 〇1 3. The fabric weft yarn unit deflection The preferred number β of the coefficient β varies depending on the morphology of the fabric. For example, in the case of plain fabrics, it is 0.04 ~ 〇.i 3, and in the case of twill weaves, 0. 0 0 3 ~ 0, 〇〇1. The satin weave is in the range of 0 0 3 to 0. 0 009. When the unit weaving factor of the weft yarn of the fabric is less than 0.03, the deflection of the weft yarn may be extremely small, or Even if the deflection of the weft is However, the density of warp yarns is also high or when the fineness of warp yarns is large. In the former case, only the inner cloth with a small weft stretch can be obtained. In the latter case, warp yarns If the external factors are too large, the lining fabric will be too stiff, and the lining fabric with soft and excellent touch cannot be obtained. At this time, the external factors of the warp yarns are large, so even the weft yarns have a large deflection shape. The weft yarn will also be restricted by the warp yarn, and the expected deflection of the weft yarn cannot be obtained. Also, when it exceeds 0.03, the deflection of the weft yarn is relatively high, or the warp yarn A fabric structure with a lower density or a smaller warp yarn fiber will form a smaller external factor of the warp yarn. 丨 丨 I i] silk is a very relaxed fabric structure. Therefore, the warp direction in the lining fabric When the yarn direction is rubbed, it will form a lining cloth with poor surface smoothness. Because the warp yarn in the lining cloth has a small external factor, it will deform the weft yarn especially when the warp yarn is rubbed. Or the loosening of the seams. In addition, the lining fabric of the present invention The dimensions of the paper in the weft direction are applicable to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (2J0 X 297 public love) — — — — — — — — — I -—111-- III I--l_r (Please read the note on the back first Please fill in this page for further information) Printed by the Consumers ’Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economy f 15- r 445137 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (13) (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) The flexural hardness is 0. 030gi · cm2 It is better to be less than / cm. When the deflection hardness in the weft direction exceeds 0 _ 〇30gf · cm2 / cm, the inner cloth is a kind of fabric with extremely hard touch. In particular, the inner cloth of the present invention has an elongation of 5 to 12% in the weft direction. Therefore, in addition to the characteristics of a large degree of deflection of the weft yarn (C weft yarn bending), the weft yarn may also be deformed. tendency. Therefore, compared with conventional lining fabrics with a weft stretch of less than 3%, the external factors of warp yarns that increase the warp yarn density must increase, and as a result, the flexural stiffness in the warp direction will also increase. In order to achieve the softness of the lining fabric, the degree of deflection in the latitudinal direction is ◦. 0 3 0 g f · c m 2 / c m or less, you can get a very soft lining fabric. Printed by the Consumers ’Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs *! Λ The deflection hardness of the lining fabric in the mid-latitude direction is 0. 0 3 0 g ί ♦ c m2 / cm or less, it may entangle with underwear on the skin due to excessive softness, You cannot get comfortable wearing. Among the deflection hardnesses in the weft direction, the lining fabric obtained from the false twist processing of polyester-based long-fiber yarns is used in the weft direction. The deflection hardness in the latitude direction is 0.025g ί · cm2 / cm or less. The soft surface material does not damage the cutting. ^ Weft adjustment method for the latitudinal flexural hardness when using polyester long-fiber raw yarn will be explained in detail in the manufacturing method of Filizi cloth. For example, a polyester long-fiber raw yarn that is soft as the weft yarn may be selected to adjust the elongation and flexural hardness of the weft yarn in the lining cloth to the aforementioned ranges. The weft yarn is a lining fabric made of long cellulose fibers, and its flexural hardness is preferably 0.030 gf · cin2 / cm or less. When using the lining cloth of the present invention, it is possible to avoid making lining cloth in the past-16- This paper size applies to the national standard of China (CNS) A4 (2) 0 * 297 mm ΗConsumer cooperatives print clothes 445137 Λ7 ------------ B7__ Five 'invention description (14) "Folding fabric" must be sewn in the lining fabric when the material is being made, and can be made to prevent sewing Contor Ji Μ has excellent wearability. Γ folding cloth in lining fabric "refers to the quilting of lining fabric near the cutting seam of loose lining fabric that is made looser than the surface fabric for the comfort of everyone. Linzi cloth shells have a better way of tailoring. However, when the lining cloth of the present invention is used, the lining cloth can be omitted, so that the zonal stretch of the lining cloth is moderately widened, and the wearing feeling of the lining is improved. It can prevent the% detachment of the seam hole. Therefore, when using the lining cloth of the hairpin, the lining cloth does not need to be provided with a "folding cloth". This makes the sewing steps more rational. The fabric structure of the lining fabric of the present invention 'for example, there are case 1 of plain weave, twill weave, and wrought weaving, and so on. What kind of fabric structure to use as the lining cloth' must be determined according to the use of the lining cloth or the characteristics required. Appropriate choice. For example, 'women's clothing must be soft and light lining fabrics with good touch,' so flat woven fabrics are preferred. The polyester-based long fibers used as the warp yarns of the lining fabric of the present invention include, for example, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polyterephthalate. A homopolymer formed from homopolymers such as methyl esters, or polyester copolymers formed from these polymers, which have fiber moldability. To the fiber, additives such as an antistatic agent, a flame retardant, a heat resistant agent, a light resistant agent, and titanium bismuth can be added as needed. The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited. Except for the round shape, for example, it can be a polygonal shape such as a dihedral shape, an L-shape, a Υ-shape, a T-shape, or a multi-leaf shape, a hollow shape, or a flat shape. can. -------------II ---- I ------- ^ (Please read the phonetic on the back? Matters before filling out this page) This paper size applies Chinese National Standard (CNS ) A4 size (210 X 297 male 1) -17- 445 13 7 a? B7 V. Description of the invention (15) (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) Cellulose long fibers for warp yarn For example, the human fiber of the copper amine method, the human fiber of the viscose method, polynosic rayon or acetate fiber, etc. The total denier number of polyester-based long fibers used for warp yarns, such as cellulose-based long fibers, is 30 to 120 deniers (d). It is preferably 50 to 100 d. The fineness of the monofilaments is not particularly large. It is limited, but it is preferably 0.5 ~ 10d, preferably 0.5 ~ 5d. These warp yarns are best made of untwisted yarn (straight yarn), but in order to improve the shrinkage of the yarn, a light twisted yarn (10 ~ --200 D / M) can be used for the filament yarn. Left and right) or interlace processing, or crimping processing such as false twist or air jet processing. For special surface processing and tactile effects, warp yarns obtained by strong twisting can also be used. The fibers used for the weft in the present invention are false-twisted polyester filament yarns, raw filaments of polyester filaments, cellulose filaments, and the like. There are no restrictions on the combination of warp yarns and weft yarns, but the fibers obtained from the following combinations are exemplified. Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs (1) Warp yarn is polyester long fiber 100% 'Weft yarn is polyester twisted false yarn 100% or polyester long Fiber woven filaments 10 0¾, or 100% long cellulose fibers. (2) The warp yarn is 100% of cellulose-based long fiber, the weft yarn is 100% of false-twisted processing yarn of polyester-based long fiber, or 100% of polyester-based long-fiber raw yarn, or 100% cellulose long fiber fabric. (3) Warp yarns are polyester long fibers and cellulose long fibers, and weft yarns are polyester twisted false yarns 100% or polyester long fibers ___- 18-_ This Paper size applies Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) 445 彳 3 7 A7 B7 Printed by the Consumers ’Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs ^ V. Description of the invention (17) The best form of implementing the invention The following will describe a method for producing a lining fabric suitable for the present invention using various weft threads. [1] When the weft yarn is a false-twisted yarn of polyester-based long fiber, the false-twisted yarn of the polyester-based long fiber used for the weft is generally not particularly limited. The weft yarn may be a false twisted yarn generally produced on an industrial scale. For example, any of the processed yarns obtained by using a spindle method or an external friction false twist method, a belt false twist method, etc. used in general false twist processing can be used. The false twist processing conditions are not particularly limited, and for example, a single heater processing yarn or a dual heater processing yarn may be used. False twist conditions that can control the crimpability of the false twist processing yarn, such as the number of false twists, the first heater temperature, the second heater temperature, and the second heater yarn feed rate, are not necessarily limited to these condition. It is also used for false twist processing of weft yarns. If it is desired to improve the bunching property, cross processing or twist processing may be applied. The raw silk used for false twist processing is not subject to any restrictions. 'It can be used, for example, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethyl terephthalate, and the like. Fibers made from polyester polymers with fiber-forming properties can be drawn using common spinning methods, such as drawn yarns or partially drawn yarns, undrawn yarns, and high-speed spinning methods. Or the silk obtained by spinning and drawing. This polyester polymer may contain a copolymer other than a homopolymer. Fiber-20- This paper size. Applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 x 297 mm) ----------- ϋ I I-^ * I --- I --- ^ i Please read the notes on the back before filling this page) Member of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs ΗConsumer Cooperative Cooperative-A7 B7 V. Invention Description (18) Anti-electricity agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-resistant agents, Additives such as titanium oxide. The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited. Except for the round shape, for example, the shape may be a polygonal shape such as a triangular shape, an L shape, a Y-shape, or a T-shape, or an indefinite shape such as a multi-leaf shape, a hollow shape, and a flat shape. Any fiber is acceptable. In order to achieve both the woven fabric's latitudinal elongation and surface smoothness at the same time, as described above, the processed yarns in the state where the warp and weft yarns are tightly collapsed must undergo tissue shrinkage because they will curl. Of processing. In other words, before or after scouring, weaving the raw material woven fabric, if the widthwise shrinkage treatment is performed on the longitude direction or latitude direction in a tight state, and a heat treatment is performed, a kind of wrinkle suppression can be produced, The surface has no uneven feeling, and has a lining fabric with a weft stretch of 5 ~ 1 2¾. That is, a "woven fabric composed of polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers" and a weft composed of polyester-based false-twisted yarns. In the state of 5 ~ 1 5% width shrinkage before or after refining, heat treatment at 1 60 ~ 2 1 0 ° C can produce lining cloth with the specific structure and function of the present invention = 5 ~ The treatment of 15% width shrinkage means that the warp yarn density on the final product during the weaving process has a large difference in warp yarn density. In the present invention, the extrusion ratio in the warp direction is less than 5%, that is, the weft is not greatly enhanced. Width shrinkage treatment is performed in a tight state toward the yarn density and in the weft direction to the warp direction. In this way, the purpose of shrinking the fabric structure can be achieved by increasing the warp yarn density. Width shrinkage, for example, when heat treatment is performed using a heat treatment machine of a needle-plate tenter type heat setting machine used in general fabric processing, it is made after weaving. ) A4 size (210x297 mm) (Please read the precautions on the back before filling out this page) 4 ^ -----! I Order · --I — 11 — 445137 Printed by the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs for consumer cooperation A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (19) The two ends of the object are fixed and then heat treated, and the longitude direction is tightened in a way that the width after weaving with a fixed width is narrower. What is necessary at this time The width shrinkage ratio is 5 ~ 15¾. For a better weft width shrinkage range, the false twist processing yarn used for the weft yarn is the processing yarn obtained by false twisting with a single heater, or the false yarn with double heaters. The processing yarns obtained by twisting are different. This is due to the fact that the dry heat shrinkage of the processing yarns in the respective false twisted processing yarns is not the same as the dry heat shrinkage of the yarns due to crimping. The use of dual heaters For false twist processing, A width shrinkage of 5 to 10% is good. When using a single heater for false twist processing, a width shrinkage of 7 to 15% is good. Heat treatment is performed at a width shrinkage of less than 5%. In this case, the shrinkage of the tissue that needs to be given the weft stretch is reduced, and the stretched fabric of the present invention cannot be obtained. When heat treatment is performed with a width shrinkage rate of more than 15%, the state of tension will not be caused during the heat treatment stage. Therefore, the fabric is subjected to heat treatment in a loose state, so problems such as wrinkles or a strong uneven feeling on the surface, and warp twists caused by warp in the weft direction will cause unpleasant problems. The heat treatment is performed at the same time that the false twisted processing yarn used is tightened due to crimping, and the generated crimping is heat-fixed. If the heat treatment does not sufficiently heat-fix the false twisted processing yarn, After the heat treatment, the crimps generated in each step (such as scouring or dyeing steps) will cause the tissue of the fabric to shrink, and the lining fabric will have wrinkles and unevenness. The wrinkles generated at this time Even in the final modification step, when the tight heat treatment is performed, it can not be completely eliminated. The temperature at which the shrinkage is generated and the heat treatment can be fully performed is 16 Ot ~ 2 1 0 ° C. ^ Using Chinese Enclosure Standard (CNS) A4 specification (21CU 297 public love) -------- I— · ------^ · ϋι — —— — — · ^ (Please read the back first Please pay attention to this page before filling in this page) 445137 A7 _____B7______ V. Description of the invention (2〇) 1 80 ° C ~ 200 ° C is better. When the heat treatment temperature does not reach 16 CTC, the curling of the false twisted processing wire will be generated and heat fixed. It is not sufficient, so it will be curled again in the subsequent scouring or dyeing step, resulting in lining fabrics with excellent wrinkle and smooth surface. In addition, when the heat treatment temperature exceeds 210 ° C, the fiber is greatly damaged by heat. Therefore, when used as a lining cloth, it will cause a decrease in mechanical properties and a very hard touch fabric. The heat treatment time must be the time that the polyester twisted false twisted processing yarn can be crimped and completely heat-fixed. When the heat treatment temperature is too high, the short time is better when the damage to the fiber is considered. When processing _, it can be processed for a long time. In the above-mentioned processing method, as long as it has a device capable of tensioning the warp / weft direction of the fabric, a needle plate tenter type heat setting machine with a clip at both ends which is commonly used for general fabric heat treatment is preferred. The consumer cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs prints the so-called refining in the present invention, which refers to the step of removing oil stains or horizontal silk paste attached to the fabric after weaving, as long as the treatment liquid used for refining contains water or interfacial activity An aqueous solution of an agent and an alkali is sufficient. The method of scouring is not particularly limited. The refining can use the heating and humidifying continuous refining machine, liquid flow dyeing machine, drape continuous processing machine, butterfly wing dyeing machine, soft refining machine and so on that are commonly used in general fabric refining. In the case where the fabric with a shrinkage of 5 to 15% of the width before refining is heat treated before being subjected to heat treatment at 160 to 2 1 ΐ, since a false twisted yarn has been provided as a crimped fabric, Therefore, the relaxation effect in the above-mentioned scouring machine can be increased, and the lining fabric of the present invention can be obtained regardless of the use of a scouring machine such as a liquid flow dyeing machine or a butterfly wing dyeing machine. If the width shrinks hot place _______- 23- This paper is again applicable to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (2〗 〇χ 297mm) 445137 Printed by the Consumers ’Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs A7 B7 V. Description of the invention ( 21) When the heat treatment is performed on a scouring machine with a large relaxation effect before the treatment, the false twisted processing yarn undergoes more crimps due to the relaxation treatment, and the lining fabric of the present invention cannot be achieved. When the scouring is performed before the width shrinkage heat treatment, it is preferable to use a device that processes the fabric in a state where tension is applied to the longitude and latitude directions of the fabric, such as a heated wet continuous scouring machine. If a liquid flow type dyeing machine, a drape-type continuous processing machine or the like is used for refining a device that does not apply tension to the warp direction and the weft direction of the fabric, it is not a good device because the surface of the fabric is wrinkled. When using a heated wet-type continuous scouring machine for refining, in order to minimize the occurrence of curling of the false twisted processing yarn, the processing temperature is preferably as low as 4 ° to 60 ° C. However, at this time, the shedding of the paste and oil in the warp threads is not sufficient. Therefore, it should be refined after the heat treatment of width shrinkage. Heat treatment is preferred. This method has the advantage that the purpose of the present invention can be achieved even when the above-mentioned device is used in a subsequent scouring step, and a lining cloth having a smooth surface and an excellent thickness can be obtained. The steps after the heat treatment in the method of the present invention can generally be supplemented with steps such as dyeing and modifying in the lining fabric processing step. In order to soften the touch, an alkali reduction process may be performed before dyeing. Even when the alkali-reducing processing step is performed in order to improve the stretchability in the weft direction, the lining fabric of the present invention does not cause the problem of loosening of seams during actual wearing. The dyeing process of the lining fabric made of 100% polyester long fibers according to the present invention can be generally applied to polyester long fibers-24. This paper is applicable to the National Standard (CNS) ) A4 size (210 x 297 mm) --- I ------- i IIII — I ^ i I --- 1 II (please read the '; on the back before filling in this page) 445137 A member of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs (consumer cooperation) printed A7 B7 s, invention description (22) 100% of the lining fabric made of dyeing process. For dyeing, for example, a dyeing machine such as a liquid flow dyeing machine, a Jaeger dyeing machine, a beam dyeing machine, and a butterfly wing dyeing machine can be used. However, in terms of the level of dyeing products, a liquid dyeing machine is preferred. The steps of finishing processing are the same as those of dyed products, and a method of finishing processing a lining fabric made of 100% long polyester fibers can be used. However, it should be noted that if the last modification step does not cause wrinkles, heat treatment should be performed with a pin plate tenter type heat setting machine. At this time, when the tenter ratio is too large, a lining fabric with a lower weft stretch than the predetermined width will be produced. For example, when the width after dyeing is about 1 to 3 cm, the crease can be eliminated. In the finishing process step, an antistatic agent, a water-repellent agent, a sweat absorbent, etc. can be optionally added as a modifier. In order to improve the gloss, smoothness and touch of the surface of the fabric, other surface smoothing treatments can be performed after adding a modifier. "False twist processing of cellulose-based long fibers / polyester-based long fibers according to the present invention The dyeing and processing steps of the interwoven P fabric made of silk are first performed the same scouring and polyester long fiber dyeing as described above. If fibrous long fiber must still be dyed, it can be used with polyester. For long fiber dyeing, the same dyeing machine can be used for dyeing, or gold infiltration dyeing method, pad steaming method, or Jagger dyeing method can be used. The modification step after dyeing and crusting is generally performed by adding i: ′ to the fiber bundle fibers, for example, to improve the washing shrinkage rate, wet rubbing fastness and other resin processing can be performed at any time. 2] When the weft is a polyester long fiber, the paper size is applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 ^ 297 mm) -25- -t -------- Order. — — — — I · ^ (Please read the notes on the back before filling out this page) Printed by the Consumer Finance Co., Ltd., Bureau of Wisdom and Finance, Ministry of Economic Affairs 445 丨 3 7 A7 _____B7 V. Description of the invention (23) The preferred method for the production of polyester filament long filaments = Weft-oriented yarns Fabrics made of polyester filament long filaments (straight yarn). If the fabric has stretchability, a softer fabric can be obtained. It is a lining fabric with excellent smoothness that can improve the smoothness of the surface and does not produce a thick feel. This method is based on the fact that in order to increase the deflection of the weft yarns in the fabric structure at the stage of the general raw material fabric, in addition to the need to increase the flexibility of the weft yarns in order to enhance the stretch of each weft direction, / Interlacing of weft yarns. Width shrink heat treatment with reduced force, so that the principle of tissue shrinkage can be generated by weft stretching. The deflection of the weft yarn in the state of the raw fabric is more than 1.5%, and more preferably 2%. The conventional linse cloth raw material fabric using polyester long-fiber yarn as the weft yarn has a weft yarn deflection ratio of 1% or less. When using a soft yarn having a weft yarn deflection ratio of 1.5% or more, After performing the heat shrinkage treatment with a width of 5 to 30%, the lining fabric of the present invention can be obtained. Especially when using soft raw silk as the weft, if the fabric is subjected to heat treatment at a temperature of 5 to 30% of the width of the fabric before or after refining, the heat treatment is performed at 160 to 2 1 0 ° C. The weft yarn can be formed into a regular and strong deflection state, and the elastic expansion and contraction phenomenon caused by the deflection can make the lining fabric have a higher weft stretchability. In addition, the use of raw silk does not give a rough feeling or lack of smoothness to the hand in the longitude direction. This paper uses the Chinese national standard (CNSM4 specification (210 x 297 male cage)) 26 ------ 1--I I t ------ Order ------ I I — &lt; Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) 445137 A7 B7 Five 'invention description (24) 5 ~ 30% width shrinkage heat treatment refers to the warp yarn density during weaving and the warp yarn on the final product The larger the density difference means, the fabric of the method of the present invention uses a weft yarn with a deflection ratio of 1.5% or more. If the extrusion in the longitudinal direction is 5% or less, that is, The density of the weft yarn is greatly enhanced and the width shrinkage treatment is performed in a tight state in the weft direction and the warp direction. In this way, the fabric structure can be contracted by increasing the warp yarn density to achieve the purpose of the invention. The width shrinkage referred to in the present invention is, for example, a heat treatment machine using a pin tenter type heat setting machine used in general fabric processing for heat treatment, which is performed after weaving or scouring so that the ends of the fabric are fixed. Heat treatment is a good way to tighten the warp direction in a way that the width of the fabric after weaving or scouring with a fixed width is narrower. The width shrinkage ratio * is generally 5 to 15%, and more preferably 10 to 25%. The range of width shrinkage is not the same as the degree of softness of the raw yarn generally used for weft yarns. In addition, since it is affected by the dry heat shrinkage of the raw silk itself, it is better to select the optimal width shrinkage in the range of 5 to 30% under investigation of the physical properties of the raw silk. When the width shrinkage is less than 5%, only lining fabrics with a weft stretch of less than 5% can be obtained. When the elongation in the weft direction is less than 5%, the effect of preventing the loosening of seams and holes in the lining fabric is the same as that of the lining fabric currently used. When the width shrinkage rate exceeds 30%, the fabric will not be stretched in the width direction, so the fabric will be wrinkled, or the holes of the weft yarn will have a large distortion. In addition, since the warp of the weft yarn is greatly deflected, a lining fabric having a weft yarn relief structure is formed. As a result, a lining cloth with a rough wearing feeling will be formed. -27- This paper size applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm &gt; (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page)- ------- ^ ilml! Printed by the Consumers ’Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs and printed by the Consumers’ Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs-445137 A7 ___B7_ V. Description of the Invention (25) This is a poor method. The subsequent heat treatment of the fabric increases the density of the warp yarns through the shrinkage of the weft in the weft direction, so it does increase the flexibility in the weft direction and fully heat-fixes the weft yarns to form a strong deflection method. The main steps: If the heat treatment does not sufficiently heat fix the raw silk, if heat is applied in each step (such as the scouring or dyeing step) after the heat treatment, the weft yarn itself will shrink and become stretched. The lower degree of lining fabric. And it will make the lining fabric wrinkle. The wrinkles generated at this time, even when the tight heat treatment is performed in the final modification step, can not completely eliminate 0 The temperature of the heat treatment for fully performing tissue shrinkage and heat fixation is preferably 160 ° C ~ 2 1 Ot, and more preferably 180 ° C ~ 2 00 ° C. When the heat treatment temperature does not reach 160 ° C , The thermal fixation of the weft yarn is not sufficient, and it may cause problems such as insufficient weft stretch or wrinkle. When the heat treatment temperature exceeds 2 1 0 t: the warp yarn and weft yarn are damaged by heat. It will reduce the mechanical properties of the lining fabric and make it into a lining fabric with high rigidity and extremely hard touch. The polyester filaments used for weft yarns can be used, for example, by the converging method and spinning. Spinning yarn (spin-draw up) method, high-speed spinning method and other spinning yarn 'without false twisting, extrusion, shaping, weaving and dismantling method (] ^ 1 ^ de-kmt), fluid jet processing, etc. Curled processing silk. Among these, the raw silk can be used to increase the bunching property of the interlaced silk or lightly twisted yarn. For polyester long fiber raw silk, for example, polyparaphenylene can be used. Applicable to the national standard of this paper size (CNS> A4 size (210 x 297 cm) -28- (Please read the notes on the back first (Fill in this page again) Install --- 1! I order · -------- 0 M A »^ Η —, ii-4D ι J ί Α7

經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 五、發明說明（26 ) 酸乙一醇酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二醇醋、聚對苯二甲酸三甲 醋等均聚物’或共聚酯系長纖維中所選出之具有纖維成型 性之聚醋聚合物所形成之長纖維。此些聚酯聚合物除均聚 物外亦可含有共聚物。此些聚合物或共聚物中，可添加抗 電劑、難燃劑、耐熱劑、耐光劑、氧化鈦等添加劑。爲達 成本發明之裏子布料具有撓曲硬度與緯向拉伸度爲5〜 1 2 %之目的’以使用具有柔軟撓曲度之原絲作爲緯向絲 者爲佳。 原絲若使用圓形截面之單絲時，因單絲之丹尼爾數較 小’故單絲直徑較小部份其緯向絲亦較柔軟，而捲曲於經 向絲結構所形成之原料織物中緯向絲之撓曲度較大，故爲 較佳。也因此’以使用高多纖維絲之原絲爲佳。原絲之總 丹尼爾數爲3 0〜1 0 〇丹尼爾之範圍，單絲丹尼爾數爲 0 . 1〜3 . 0丹尼爾之範圍爲較佳。又更佳爲〇 . 2〜 2 . 0丹尼爾之範圍。 單絲之截面可爲圓形或其他形狀。其他形狀例如可爲 三角型、；L型、Υ型、Τ型等多角型狀，或爲多.葉型、中 空型、扁平型等不定形狀織物皆可。其他形狀之截面以對 特定方向爲非常柔軟之扁平型或橢圓形爲最佳。 此處所稱之扁平型1並不只單指扁平型’而尙包括W 型、I型、波浪型、浪板型等實質上爲扁平，但於某一特 定方向具有極佳撓曲性之截面結構之原絲。 上記具有其他截面形狀之絲，爲增加柔軟撓曲性’以 使用多纖維之形態爲佳。爲扁平型、橢圓形之情形時’ 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） I--II------ * I i I —^.|!_ — !·^ (請先閱讀背面之法意事項再填寫本頁) 445 1 3 A7 B7 五、發明說明（27) 單絲丹尼爾爲〇 . 5〜4，較佳爲0 _ 5〜3丹尼爾之原 絲爲佳。 構成原絲之單絲截面可爲圓形截面或其他形狀之截面 ’但只要原料織物階段中之緯向絲撓曲率爲1 . 5 %以上 '較佳爲2 %以上時之原絲，即可達成本發明之裏子布料 ’對於聚合物種類、或紡絲方法等並不需要特定之條件。 使用具有柔軟度之原絲所作成之裏子布料，其織物在 緯度方向可具有〇 〇3〇gf · cm2/cm以下，更佳 爲〇 . 020gf · cm2/cm以下撓曲硬度之觸感- 本發明之熱處理時間，只要可對組織產生收縮及使緯 向絲完全熱固定之時間即可，熱處理溫度過高時在考量對 經向絲、緯向絲之傷害性時則以短時間爲佳，以低溫處理 時則可以進行長時間之處理。較佳之熱處理時間，一般爲 1 80 t：〜200 °C時爲1 5秒〜60秒。進行熱處理之 裝置’ 一般只要具有可將織物之經/緯方向繃緊處理之裝 置即可。又以一般織物進行熱處理時所常用之二端具有夾 子之針板拉幅型熱定型機爲佳。 本發明中所稱之精練，係指將附著於製織後織物之油 漬或橫向絲糊劑等去除之步驟，精練所使用之處理液只要 含有水或界面活性劑與鹼之水溶液即可。精練之方法、操 作等可使用一般織物精練時所常使用之加熱濕潤型連續精 練機、液流型染色機、懸垂型連續處理機、蝶翼式染色機 、軟式精練機等爲佳。 裏子布料可使用在精練前經寬度收縮熱處理步驟所製 _ -30- 本紙張瓦度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公釐） f請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) I I I I I I I β------I--Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs V. Description of the Invention (26) Ethylene glycol ester, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate and other homopolymers' or copolyesters A long fiber formed from a fiber-forming polyester polymer selected from the fibers. These polyester polymers may contain copolymers in addition to homopolymers. These polymers or copolymers may be added with additives such as an anti-static agent, a flame retardant, a heat-resistant agent, a light-resistant agent, and titanium oxide. In order to achieve the purpose of the invention, the lining fabric has a flexural hardness and a weft elongation of 5 to 12%. It is preferable to use a raw yarn having a soft flexure as the weft. When the monofilament with a circular cross-section is used for the original yarn, the single yarn has a smaller Daniel number, so the smaller diameter of the single yarn is also softer in the weft direction and curled in the raw fabric formed by the warp yarn structure The deflection of the weft yarn is large, so it is preferable. Therefore, it is preferred to use a high-fiber yarn. The total denier number of the raw silk is in the range of 30 to 100 denier, and the monofilament denier number is in the range of 0.1 to 3.0 denier. Still more preferably it is in the range of 0.2 to 2.0 denier. The cross section of the monofilament may be circular or other shapes. Other shapes may be, for example, a triangular shape, a polygonal shape such as an L-shape, a Υ-shape, a T-shape, or a multi-leaf shape, a hollow shape, or a flat-shaped fabric. The cross section of other shapes is preferably a flat or oval shape which is very soft for a specific direction. The “flat type 1” referred to here is not just a flat type, but includes a W-shaped, I-shaped, wave-shaped, wave-shaped, etc., which are essentially flat, but have a cross-sectional structure with excellent flexibility in a specific direction. Raw silk. The silk having other cross-sectional shapes mentioned above is preferably a multi-fiber form in order to increase the flexibility and flexibility. In the case of flat and oval shape 'This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) I--II ------ * I i I — ^. |! _ — ! · ^ (Please read the French and Italian matters on the back before filling this page) 445 1 3 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (27) Monofilament Daniel is 0.5 ~ 4, preferably 0_5 ~ 3 Daniel's original Silk is better. The cross-section of the monofilament constituting the raw yarn may be a circular cross-section or a cross-section of other shapes. However, as long as the deflection of the weft yarn in the raw fabric stage is 1.5% or more, preferably the raw yarn is 2% or more The lining fabric of the invention does not require specific conditions for the type of polymer or the spinning method. The lining fabric made of raw silk with softness can have a tactile sensation of flexural hardness of less than 0.300 gf · cm2 / cm in the latitude direction- The heat treatment time of the present invention may be a time that can shrink the tissue and completely fix the weft yarn. When the heat treatment temperature is too high, it is better to take a short time when considering the damage to the warp and weft yarns. When processing at low temperature, it can be processed for a long time. The preferred heat treatment time is generally 1 80 t: 15 seconds to 60 seconds at ~ 200 ° C. The apparatus for performing heat treatment generally needs only a device capable of tensioning the warp / weft direction of the fabric. It is also preferable to use a needle-plate tenter type heat setting machine with a clamp at both ends which is commonly used in general fabrics for heat treatment. The scouring referred to in the present invention refers to a step of removing oil stains or transverse silk pastes and the like attached to the woven fabric, and the processing liquid used for the scouring may include water or an aqueous solution of a surfactant and an alkali. For refining methods and operations, it is preferable to use a heated and wet continuous refining machine, a liquid flow dyeing machine, a drape continuous processing machine, a butterfly wing dyeing machine, and a soft refining machine that are commonly used in general fabric refining. The lining cloth can be made by the width shrinking heat treatment step before scouring. -30- The paper wattage is in accordance with China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210x297 mm). F Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) IIIIIII β ------ I--

經濟部智慧財產局員η消費合作社印M 445137 A7 B7 五、發明說明（28) 得者’或相反的使用精練後經寬度收縮熱處理步驟所製得 者皆α了，似爲求得柔軟且具有高緯向拉伸度之裏子布料時 ’以精練前經寬度收縮熱處理步驟所製得者爲佳。 f請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 經宽度收縮熱處理及精練過程結朿後，可使用裏子布 料之一般加工步驟中之染色、修飾等步驟α 爲使觸感柔軟化時，可於染色前實施鹼減S:加工之步 驟。般以鹼減量方式提高觸感之方法中，會造成經向絲 與緯向絲間產生間隙而會增加縫孔之鬆脫置。但，本發明 之裏子布料，因具有緯方向之拉伸性，故實施鹼減量加工 步驟時 '於實際穿用時也不會產生縫孔鬆脫等問題。 有關聚酯系長纖維1 0 0 %所構成之裏子布料所進行 之染色加丁.，可依-般對以聚酯系長纖維1 0 0 %所構成 之裏子布料進行之染色加工法進行。染色例如可使用液流 型染色機、杰格式染色機、經軸染色機、蝶翼染色機等染 色機，但以染色品之水準、費用等觀之，以使用液流染色 機爲佳2 染色後之整理加X等步驟，與染色加工相同般可使用 -般對以聚酯系足纖維1 0 0 %所構成之裏子布料所進行 經濟部智慧財彦局員Μ消費合作社印製 之整邱.加I:步驟。但，爲去除最後步驟中所產生之皺折時 ，應以針扳拉幅型熱定型機進行拉幅熱處理，但此時應注 意拉幅比例過人時，則會產生低拉伸度之裏子布料。例如 對染色後之寬度作1〜3 C m左右之拉幅使皺折消除之處 PI!爲貝有其必要性之處理·· 整理加工步驟中1可任意添加作爲修飾劑之靜電防止 -31 - 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 44513 7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 A7 B7 五、發明說明（29) 劑、撥水劑、吸汗劑等。乂爲改善織物表面之光澤、平滑 性、觸感時’可在添加修飾劑後再進行其他表面平滑處理 等皆可。 對由纖維素系長纖維/聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲構 成之交織裏子布料的染色加工，首先係依上記方法進行+相 「J]之寬度收縮’並於精練後對纖維素系長纖維染色u此時 ，可以使用與聚酯系長纖維染色時所使用之相同染色機進 行染色 &gt; 或使用黃金浸滲染色法或軋蒸法或杰格染色法等 以其他染色機進行染色皆可。 染色結束後之整理加工，一般以對纖維束纖維進行加 工之爲提高洗濯收縮率、濕摩擦牢固度等之樹脂加I:處埋 皆可進行。 〔3〕緯向絲爲纖維素系長纖維時 以下將說明緯向絲爲纖維素系長纖維時之裏子布料的 較佳製法。 纖維素系纖維織物，已知爲一種浸泡於水中時會使纖 維產生膨潤而使組織產生收縮之織物。而本發明之裏子布 料係經巾採用可充分發揮纖維素纖維因水之膨潤作用而使 織物於緯向絲方向.產生組織收縮之原理所得之步驟所製得 之裏F布料。 即，對經向絲使用聚醋系長纖維或纖維素系長纖維' 緯向絲使用纖維素系長纖維所構成的精練前之織物經添加 水後，以對製織後之原料織物寬度爲5〜1 5 %之寬度收 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公釐） -32- I ----------- --------訂--------'^· (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作钍印製 445137 A7 I-------B7__ 五、發明說明（30) 縮率之狀態下’經過1 〇 Ot〜2 1 or之熱處理之加工 方式下可製得緯向拉伸率爲5〜1 2%之裏子布料。 5〜1 5%之寬度收縮熱處理方法，係與使用緯向絲 爲聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲或爲聚酯系長纖維之原絲時 之方法相同’其不同之處僅爲對寬度收縮熱處理前之原料 織物先進行施加水的處理。 以銅胺人纖或黏膠人纖爲代表之纖維素系長纖維，因 較木棉等天然纖維素系長纖維具有較多之非結晶部分，故 浸泡於水中時因膨潤所產生之纖維直徑變化而容易引起.組 織收縮，故在對因膨潤而容易產生組織收縮之狀態下再於 高溫狀態下進行寬度收縮處理時，即可製得本發明之具有 緯向拉伸性之纖維素長纖維織物。 用於緯向絲之纖維素系長纖維，例如銅胺法之人纖、 黏膠法之人纖、高絲膜量黏膠纖維（polynosic rayon )或 醋酸纖維等等。經浸泡水而具有較大膨潤度之銅胺人纖、 黏膠人纖等因容易得到具有較高緯向拉伸度之織物，故爲 較佳之纖維素纖維。而經浸泡水所得之膨潤度較小之纖維 時，如後所述般，可浸泡於添加有提高膨潤度之化合物的 浸泡液中，即可得到所期待之膨潤作用。 使用銅胺法之人纖、黏膠法之人纖、高絲膜量黏膠纖 維（ρ ο 1 y η 〇 s i c r a y ο η )作爲緯向絲時，若未經過施加水分 之處理時則不能得到本發明之裏子布料。醋酸纖維素纖維 時·施加水後會有較大的拉伸率’若未施加水時則可得到 具有5〜8%緯向拉伸率之裊子布料織物。 __-33-_ 1本纸張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公蜚） - - --------- · I ---------II--I (請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 445137 A7 B7 五、發明說明（31) 所使用之纖維素系長纖維，單絲以0 . 5〜1 0丹尼 爾，較佳爲0.5〜5丹尼爾所構成之30〜120丹尼 爾1較佳爲5 0〜1 0 0丹尼爾之無捻原絲，又爲提高無 捻絲之收縮性，可對交織絲或原絲作輕度之撚紗（1 0〜 2 0 0 T/Μ左右）加工，或施以假撚加工或空氣噴射加 工等捲縮加工處理亦可。 將精練前隻原料織物施加水分之方法，係使用可使織 物均勻附著有水分之方法。一般較適當之方法，例如浸泡 法或噴霧法貨單面塗付法等，就施加水分之加工方法的+安 定性及加工費用而言時，以浸泡法施加水分爲佳。浸泡法 係將走動中之織物以1〜3 0秒之時間連續且均勻地浸泡 於水槽中。在使纖維素系長纖維膨潤漲大之水槽中，可添 加0 . 5〜1 〇wt%左右之氫氧化鈉或氫氧化鉀、氫氧 化鋰、碳酸鈉等鹼性化合物。浸泡層之溫度並不限定，可 爲常溫至1 0 0 °C之範圍。 施加水分後，於進行連續寬度收縮熱處理前預先將織 物表面過剩之水分以設置於浸泡槽與熱處理機間之脫水裝 置去除，以確保品質之安定化。 施加水分後，例如使用一般織物加工時所使用之針板 拉幅型熱定型機之熱處理機進行熱處理時，係於製織後或 精練後使織物兩端呈固定狀態下再進行熱處理，爲以固定 寬度經製織後之織物寬度更爲狹窄之織物。 本發明之寬度收縮率爲5〜15% ，更佳爲6〜13 %之範圍。寬度收縮率之較佳範圍依緯向絲所使用之纖維 -34- 本紙張尺度適用中园®家標準（CNS)A4規格（Μ〇χ 297公釐） &lt;請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝-----I--訂—I------^, 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 445137 A7 B7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印製 五、發明說明（32) 素系長纖維之種類之不同而不同。隨所使用之纖維素系長 纖維之浸泡時間及膨潤度之不同，而以在5〜1 5 %之範 圍內選擇最佳之寬度收縮率。寬度收縮率低於5¾時僅可 得到緯向拉伸率小於5 %之裏子布料。寬度收縮率超過 1 5 %時，因織物會產生皺折、或緯向絲之孔目會有較大 之扭曲變形等產生。又，織物之緯向絲的撓曲度較大故會 使緯向絲形成浮凸結構，且會形成具有粗造穿著感的裏子 布料。 - 製織後對原料織物之熱處理，係使膨潤狀態之纖維素 系長纖維之乾燥一口氣進行，經由緯方向之組織收縮而增 加經向絲之密度，因此確實增加緯向絲之撓曲性爲此方法 中主要之要點。若熱處理步驟不能瞬間進行乾燥時，將會 使緯向絲本身產生收縮而成爲拉伸度較低之裏子布料。且 會使裏子布料產生皺折。此時所產生之皺折，即使在最後 修飾步驟中再進行緊繃之熱處理時，亦不能完全消除。 又，可充分進行組織收縮及熱固定之熱處理之溫度， 較佳爲1 0 0 °c〜2 1 0 r，又以1 3 0 °C〜2 0 0 °C爲 更佳。熱處理溫度未達1 0 0 t時，因對膨潤狀態之緯向 絲無法產生瞬間乾燥，故會產生緯向拉伸度不足或產生鈹 折等問題。又，熱處理溫度超過2 1 0 °C時，因經向絲、 緯向絲受到熱之傷害而會使裏子布料之機械性降低、而成 爲剛性較高且觸感極硬之裏子布料。 木發明之熱處理時間，係爲可使組織產生充分收縮之 時間。熱處理溫度過高時在考量對經向絲、緯向絲之傷害 _135：__ 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐) ' ----------- ------ -- 訂 ί-------^ ί請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 445 13 7 A7 B7 五、發明說明（33) {請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 性時則以短時間爲佳，以低溫處理時則可以進行長時間之 處理=較佳之熱處理時間，一般爲1 30 t〜200 °c時 爲1 5秒〜1 8 0秒。 熱處理之裝置，係使用可將織物之經/緯方向以繃緊 狀態下處理之裝置即可。又以一般織物進行熱處理時所常 用之二端具有夾子之針板拉幅型熱定型機爲佳。 施加水以進行寬度收縮處理之織物，其後進行去除附 著於織物之紡絲油漬或橫向絲糊劑等之精練步驟。精練步 驟所使用之處理液只要含有水或界面活性劑與鹼之水溶液 即可。織物之精練一般可使用織物精練時所常使用之加熱 濕潤型連續精練機、液流型染色機、懸垂型連續處理機、 蝶翼式染色機、軟式精練機等爲佳。就考慮生產性或加工 時之皺折發生性而言，以使用加熱濕潤型連續精練機或杰 格型染色機作爲精練機爲佳。 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印*'^ 精練處理之織物，一般用於纖維素系長纖維製裏子布 料之加工方法皆可隨意進行處理。其中之染色方法並沒有 特別限定’例如可由液流型染色法 '杰格式染色法、經軸 染色法、黃金浸滲染色法，軋蒸法或軋染捲蒸法等中選擇 適合經、緯向絲之纖維素系長纖維之種類所使用之染料及 染色方法。 經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維、且緯向絲爲纖維素系長纖維 時，亦可使用與上記染色機相同之裝置，也可使用與對聚 酯系長纖維染色所使用之染色機器相同之裝置對纖維素系 長纖維進行染色，或可使用黃金浸滲染色法、軋蒸法或杰 36 本纸張又度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 * 297公；II ) 經濟部智慧財彦局員工消費合作社印制衣 4451 3 7 A7 __B7__ 五、發明說明（34) 格法等配合其他染色機對纖維素系長纖維進行染色u 染色結束後之整理加X，一般以對纖維束纖維進行加 工所常使用之爲提尚洗'/崔收縮率、海摩擦固度等之樹脂 加工處埋皆可進行。但，爲去除最後步驟中所產生之皺折 而使用針板拉幅型熱定型機所進行之拉幅熱處理時，應注 意拉幅比例過大時會產生低拉伸度之裏f布料。例如以對 染色後之寬度作1〜3 c m左右之拉幅使皺折消除等處理 爲佳u 整理加工步驟中’可任意添加作爲修飾劑之靜電防止 劑、撥水劑、吸汗劑等。又爲改善織物表面之光澤、平滑 性、觸感時，可在添加修飾劑後再進行其他表面平滑處埋 等。 使用本發明纖維素系長纖維作爲緯向絲之裏子布料， 緯方向具有5〜1 2 %之拉伸度，爲緯方向不易產生撓曲 而引起組織收縮之織物結構，爲一種用於家庭洗濯時尺寸 變化較小，防皺性優良之裏户布料。 丨：實施例〕 實施例中數値及製品特徵之判定基準，係依以下評估 方法進行： (1 )織物緯向拉仲度之測定 使用卡特科技公司製K E S — F Β 1 ，對2 0 c m X 2 0 c m之織物以拉伸速度=〇 · 2 m m /秒之速度向緯 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 x 297公釐） -37- &lt;請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) --------訂·--------1^·* _ 445 1 3 A7 B7 五、發明說明（35) 度方向拉伸，且5 0 0 g/cm之應力下之拉伸度S (% )係依下式所求得之値。式中，A爲5 0 0 g/cm下之 拉伸長度（cm) ，B爲織物之原長度0 cm。 S ( % ) = (A/'B) xl〇〇 (2 )動摩擦係數之測定 使用卡特科技公司製KE S - S E，對1 cmxl cm 之摩擦面使用包覆3號砂布之棉布的2 5 g摩擦頭，以-5 cm /m i η之速度於固定之裏子布料上滑動，由是時之 摩擦抵抗力以下式求得動摩擦係數（V)。式中，Α爲摩 擦抵抗力之平均値（g ) ，B爲摩擦頭之重量（g )。Member of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, Consumer Cooperatives, M 445137 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (28) The winners' or the opposite are obtained after refining and processed by the width shrinking heat treatment step, which seems to be soft and high For zonal fabrics with weft stretch, it is better to use the width shrinkage heat treatment step before scouring. f Please read the precautions on the back before filling in this page) After the heat shrinking and scouring of the width shrinking process, you can use the dyeing and finishing steps in the general processing steps of the lining cloth. α To soften the touch, you can Before dyeing, alkali S: processing step is performed. Generally, the method of improving the tactile feeling by means of alkali reduction will cause a gap between the warp and weft yarns and increase the loosening of the seams. However, the linoleum cloth of the present invention has stretchability in the weft direction, and therefore, when the alkali weight reduction processing step is performed, there is no problem such as loosening of seams and the like when it is actually worn. Regarding the dyeing process of lining fabrics made of 100% polyester long fibers, the dyeing process for lining fabrics made of 100% polyester long fibers get on. For the dyeing, for example, a liquid flow dyeing machine, a Jet dyeing machine, a beam dyeing machine, and a butterfly wing dyeing machine can be used for dyeing. However, in terms of the level and cost of the dyed product, a liquid flow dyeing machine is preferred. 2 Dyeing The subsequent finishing and X steps can be used in the same way as the dyeing process-generally, the lining fabric made of 100% polyester foot fiber is printed by the member of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, the Smart Finance and Bureau Bureau, and the consumer cooperative. Plus I: Steps. However, in order to remove the wrinkles generated in the last step, a tenter heat setting machine should be used for the tenter heat treatment, but at this time, it should be noted that when the tenter ratio is excessive, it will cause a low stretch. Child cloth. For example, the width after dyeing is about 1 ~ 3 C m to eliminate the wrinkles PI! It is a necessary treatment for shellfish. · In the finishing process step 1 can be added as a modifier to prevent static electricity -31 -This paper size is in accordance with China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) 44513 7 Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (29) Agents, water repellents, sweat absorbers, etc. .时 In order to improve the gloss, smoothness, and feel of the surface of the fabric ', it is acceptable to perform other surface smoothing treatments after adding a modifier. The dyeing process of interwoven lining fabrics composed of false long-twisted filaments of cellulose-based long-fiber / polyester-based long-fiber is first performed in accordance with the method described above + phase "J" width shrinkage "and the cellulose is refined after refining For long fiber dyeing, you can use the same dyeing machine as used for polyester long fiber dyeing> or use another dyeing machine using the gold infiltration dyeing method, the pad steaming method, or the Jagger dyeing method. Dyeing is all possible. Finishing and processing after dyeing is generally performed by processing the fiber bundle fibers to improve washing shrinkage, wet rubbing fastness and other resins plus I: burying can be performed. [3] Weft yarns are fibers In the case of plain long fibers, a preferred method for making lining cloth when wefts are long cellulose fibers is described below. Cellulose fiber fabrics are known as a type of fiber that swells and causes tissues when immersed in water. Shrinked fabric. The lining cloth of the present invention is a warp towel which can make full use of cellulose fibers due to the swelling effect of water to make the fabric in the weft direction.得 之 里 F cloth. That is, using polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers for warp yarns, weaving fabrics made of cellulose-based long fibers for weft yarns, and adding water to The width of the raw material fabric is 5 ~ 15% of the width. The paper size is applicable to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210x297 mm) -32- I ----------- ----- --- Order -------- '^ · (Please read the notes on the back before filling out this page) Consumption Cooperation with Employees of Intellectual Property Bureau, Ministry of Economic Affairs, printed 445137 A7 I ------- B7__ V. Description of the invention (30) In the state of shrinkage rate, lining fabrics with a weft stretching rate of 5 to 12% can be obtained through a heat treatment process of 100 to 2 1 or 5 to 1 5 % Width shrinkage heat treatment method is the same as the method used when the weft yarn is a polyester twisted false yarn or a polyester long fiber yarn. The difference is only before the width shrinkage heat treatment. The raw material fabric is first treated with water. The cellulose-based long fibers represented by copper amine fiber or viscose human fiber are more natural cellulose-based fibers such as kapok. There are many non-crystalline parts, so it is easy to cause the fiber diameter change caused by swelling when immersed in water. Tissue shrinkage, so when the width shrinkage treatment is performed under high temperature in the state where tissue shrinkage is prone to occur due to swelling. The cellulose long-fiber fabric with weft stretchability of the present invention can be prepared. The cellulose-based long fibers used for weft yarns, such as the man-made fibers of the copper amine method, the man-made fibers of the viscose method, and high-filament films Amount of viscose fiber (polynosic rayon) or acetate fiber, etc. Copper amine fiber, viscose fiber, etc. with greater swelling degree after soaking in water, because it is easy to obtain fabrics with higher weft stretch, so The preferred cellulose fiber is. When the fiber having a smaller degree of swelling obtained by soaking in water is immersed in a soaking solution containing a compound that enhances the degree of swelling as described later, the desired swelling effect can be obtained. When using the human fiber of the copper amine method, the human fiber of the viscose method, and the high-filament film viscose fiber (ρ ο 1 y η 〇sicray ο η) as the weft yarn, this product cannot be obtained without the treatment of applying moisture. Invented lining cloth. Cellulose acetate fiber · Large elongation after application of water '. If no water is applied, a gardenia fabric having a weft elongation of 5 to 8% can be obtained. __- 33-_ 1 This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 cm)----------- · I --------- II- -I (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) 445137 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (31) The cellulose-based long fibers used are monofilament with 0.5 ~ 10 denier, preferably 0.5 ~ 30 to 120 deniers composed of 5 deniers are preferably 50 to 100 denier untwisted yarns, and to improve the shrinkage of untwisted yarns, light twisted yarns can be used for interlaced yarns or raw yarns ( 1 ~ 2 0 0 T / M) processing, or crimping processing such as false twist processing or air jet processing. The method of applying moisture to only the raw fabric before the scouring is a method of uniformly attaching moisture to the fabric. Generally more suitable methods, such as the immersion method or spray-on-one-side coating method, etc. In terms of the stability and processing cost of the processing method to apply moisture, it is better to apply the water by the immersion method. The immersion method is to continuously and evenly soak the moving fabric in a sink for 1 to 30 seconds. To the water tank which swells and expands the cellulose-based long fibers, basic compounds such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate, such as about 0.5 to 10 wt%, can be added. The temperature of the immersion layer is not limited, and may be in the range of normal temperature to 100 ° C. After applying water, the excess water on the surface of the fabric is removed in advance by a dewatering device installed between the immersion tank and the heat treatment machine before the continuous width shrinking heat treatment to ensure the stability of the quality. After applying moisture, for example, when using a heat treatment machine of a pin-plate tenter type heat setting machine used in general fabric processing, heat treatment is performed after weaving or scouring to keep the two ends of the fabric in a fixed state, and then to fix it. Fabrics with narrower width after weaving. The width shrinkage ratio of the present invention is 5 to 15%, and more preferably 6 to 13%. The preferred range of width shrinkage depends on the fibers used by weft-oriented yarns. -34- This paper size is applicable to Zhongyuan® Home Standard (CNS) A4 specification (Μ〇χ 297 mm) &lt; Please read the precautions on the back first (Fill in this page) Pack ----- I--Order--I ------ ^, printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 445137 A7 B7 Description of the invention (32) The type of the elementary long fiber varies. Depending on the soaking time and swelling degree of the cellulose-based long fibers used, the optimal width shrinkage ratio is selected within the range of 5 to 15%. When the width shrinkage is less than 5¾, only lining fabrics with a weft stretch of less than 5% can be obtained. When the width shrinkage exceeds 15%, wrinkles may occur in the fabric, or the meshes of the weft yarn may have a large distortion. In addition, since the weft of the fabric has a large degree of deflection, the weft is formed into an embossed structure, and a lining fabric having a rough wearing feeling is formed. -The heat treatment of the raw material fabric after weaving is carried out by drying the swollen cellulose long fibers in a single breath, and increasing the density of the warp yarns through the shrinkage of the weft in the weft direction. Therefore, the flexibility of the weft yarns is indeed increased. The main points in this method. If the heat treatment step cannot be dried instantaneously, the weft yarn itself will shrink and become a low-stretch fabric. And it will cause wrinkles in the lining fabric. The wrinkles generated at this time cannot be completely eliminated even when a tight heat treatment is performed in the final modification step. In addition, the temperature at which the heat treatment of the tissue shrinkage and heat fixation can be sufficiently performed is preferably 100 ° C to 2 1 0 r, and more preferably 130 ° C to 2 0 ° C. When the heat treatment temperature is less than 100 t, the woven yarn in the swollen state cannot be dried instantaneously, which causes problems such as insufficient dimensional elongation or beryllium folding. In addition, when the heat treatment temperature exceeds 210 ° C, the mechanical properties of the lining fabric are reduced due to heat damage to the warp and weft threads, resulting in a lining fabric having high rigidity and extremely hard touch. The heat treatment time of the wood invention is the time for the tissue to fully shrink. When the heat treatment temperature is too high, the damage to warp and weft yarns is considered _135: __ This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) '--------- --------Order ί ------- ^ ί Please read the notes on the back before filling this page) 445 13 7 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (33) {Please read the back first Note: Please fill in this page again.) It is better to use a short time when it is low temperature, and long time when it is processed at a low temperature. = The best heat treatment time is generally 1 30 t ~ 200 ° c, 15 seconds ~ 1. 80 seconds. The heat treatment device can be a device which can treat the warp / weft direction of the fabric under tension. It is also preferable to use a pin-plate tenter type heat setting machine with clips at both ends, which is commonly used in general fabrics for heat treatment. Water is applied to the width-shrinked fabric, and then a scouring step is performed to remove the spinning oil stains or lateral silk paste attached to the fabric. The treatment liquid used in the scouring step may be any solution containing water or an aqueous solution of a surfactant and an alkali. Fabric refining can generally use the heating humidifying continuous refining machine, liquid flow dyeing machine, drape continuous processing machine, butterfly wing dyeing machine, soft refining machine, etc. In consideration of productivity or wrinkle occurrence during processing, it is preferable to use a heat-wet continuous scouring machine or Jagger type dyeing machine as the scouring machine. Du Yin * '^, the consumer cooperation of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, for the refined processing of fabrics, is generally used for the processing of cellulose-based long-fiber lining fabrics. Among them, the dyeing method is not particularly limited. For example, a liquid flow dyeing method can be used to select a suitable warp and weft direction among the Jiege dyeing method, the warp dyeing method, the gold infiltration dyeing method, the pad steaming method, and the pad dyeing roll steaming method. Dyes and dyeing methods for silk cellulose are the types of long fibers. When the warp yarn is a polyester-based long fiber and the weft yarn is a cellulose-based long fiber, the same device as the above dyeing machine can be used, and the same dyeing machine as used for dyeing the polyester long fiber can be used. The device can be used to dye long cellulose fibers, or gold infiltration dyeing method, roll steaming method or Jie 36 paper is also applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 * 297 male; II) Ministry of Economic Affairs Wisdom Welfare Bureau employee consumer cooperative printed clothing 4451 3 7 A7 __B7__ V. Description of the invention (34) Grate and other dyeing machines are used to dye cellulose long fibers u After finishing the dyeing, X is added. Generally, the fiber is Tow fibers can be processed at the resin processing sites such as Tishang washing / Cui shrinkage and sea friction solidity. However, in order to remove the wrinkles generated in the last step, when using a tenter heat treatment with a pin plate tenter type heat setting machine, it should be noted that if the tenter ratio is too large, a low-stretched fabric will be produced. For example, it is better to treat the width after dyeing with a width of about 1 to 3 cm to eliminate wrinkles. In the finishing process step, an antistatic agent, a water-repellent agent, a sweat absorbent, etc. can be arbitrarily added as a modifier. In order to improve the gloss, smoothness and touch of the surface of the fabric, other surface smoothing places can be added after the modifier is added. The cellulose long fiber of the present invention is used as a woven fabric for weft yarns. The weft direction has a stretch of 5 to 12%. It is a fabric structure that is not easy to cause flexion in the weft direction and causes tissue shrinkage. Washi fabric with small dimensional change and excellent wrinkle resistance.丨: Examples] The criteria for determining the number and characteristics of the products in the examples were performed according to the following evaluation methods: (1) The measurement of the weft tension of the fabric was made using KES—F Β 1 manufactured by Carter Technology Co., Ltd., for 20 cm X 2 0 cm fabric is stretched to the weft at a speed of 0.2 mm / sec. The size of the paper applies Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 x 297 mm) -37- &lt; Please read the back Please fill in this page for attention) -------- Order · -------- 1 ^ · * _ 445 1 3 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (35) Stretch in the direction of direction, and 5 0 The elongation S (%) under a stress of 0 g / cm is obtained by the following formula. In the formula, A is the stretched length (cm) at 500 g / cm, and B is the original length of the fabric 0 cm. S (%) = (A / 'B) x 100 (2) Measurement of dynamic friction coefficient Using KE S-SE manufactured by Carter Technology Co., Ltd. For a friction surface of 1 cmxl cm, 2 5 g of cotton cloth covered with No. 3 emery cloth The friction head slides on the fixed inner cloth at a speed of -5 cm / mi η, and the dynamic friction coefficient (V) is obtained from the friction resistance at the time by the following formula. In the formula, A is the average friction resistance (g) and B is the weight (g) of the friction head.

β = A / B 本發明中裏子布料之動摩擦係數値爲，於裏子布料經 向絲方向滑動時之摩擦係數與，於緯向絲方向滑動時之摩 擦係數的平均値。 (3 )緯向絲撓曲率之測定 緯向絲之撓曲率係於織物之緯向絲方向2 〇 c m處加 蓋印記後，將織物分解取出後將緯向絲加掛〇 . 1 g / d 之重量並測定是時之長度S cm，再依下式求得其撓曲率 〇 _ -38- 本紙張尺度埤用t國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 2町公釐） (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝-----I--訂·! -^ 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 445137 A7 B7 五、發明說明（36) 緯向絲之撓曲率（％) = { (s — 20)/20} x 10 0 (4 )織物中經向絲、緯向絲之密度 織物之密度，係計算織物1英吋寬中經向絲之數目而 得（絲/英吋）。 &lt; 5 )經向絲之纖度 織物之經向絲纖度（丹尼爾：d )，係將織物之經向 絲加掛0 . 1 g/d重量下製成2束長9 0 cm之樣品， 在測得其重量W ( g )後，以下式求得其纖度。 經向絲之纖度（d)二（Wx900000)/180 (6 )織物中緯度方向之撓曲硬度 使用卡特科技公司製KES — FB2，對2〇cmx 2 0 cm之織物夾取長2 0 cmxl cm之有效樣品，於最 &lt;請先閱讀背面之注項再填寫本頁) ------11 訂·！ i 11 — 埃 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 大彎曲率±2 . 5 cm1，撓曲變形速度0 . 50 cm 之條件下進行彎曲時，其彎曲率與+0 . 5、+1 . 5 cm 1 (表側之撓曲）單位幅度之撓曲力距（g f · c m / c m )的差値除以撓曲率（1 c m _ 1 )所得之値（g fβ = A / B In the present invention, the dynamic friction coefficient 里 of the lining cloth is the average 値 of the friction coefficient when the lining cloth slides in the warp direction and the friction coefficient when it slides in the weft direction. (3) Measurement of the deflection of the weft yarn The deflection of the weft yarn is stamped at 20 cm in the weft direction of the fabric, the fabric is decomposed and taken out, and the weft yarn is hung 0.1 g / d The weight is measured and the length S cm is measured, and then the deflection rate is calculated according to the following formula: __38- This paper size uses the national standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 2 mm) (please first (Please read the notes on the back and fill in this page again.) Packing ----- I--Order ·!-^ Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 445137 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (36) Deflection of weft wire (%) = {(S — 20) / 20} x 10 0 (4) Density of warp and weft in the fabric The density of the fabric is calculated by calculating the number of warp in 1 inch wide fabric ( Silk / inch). &lt; 5) Warp yarn fineness The warp yarn fineness of the fabric (Denier: d) is made by adding the warp yarn of the fabric to a weight of 0.1 g / d to make two bundles of 90 cm in length. After the weight W (g) was measured, the fineness was determined by the following formula. The fineness of warp yarns (d) 2 (Wx900000) / 180 (6) The flexural hardness of the fabric in the mid-latitude direction is KES-FB2, manufactured by Carter Technology, and a 20 cm x 20 cm fabric is clamped to a length of 20 cmxl cm. For effective samples, please read the note on the back before filling in this page) ------ 11 Orders! i 11 — The consumer cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs of India printed a large bending rate of ± 2.5 cm1 and a bending deformation speed of 0.50 cm when the bending rate is +0.5, +1. The difference between the deflection force distance (gf · cm / cm) per unit amplitude of 5 cm 1 (deflection on the front side) divided by the deflection rate (1 cm _ 1) (gf

C m o 位 單 距 力-曲 與撓 1之 度 ί幅 5 m C 5 m c/m 側差 裏的 -39- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公g ) 445137 A7 B7 五、發明說明（37) 値除以撓曲率（1 cm — Μ所得之値（g f · cm2/ c m )之平均値。 〔7 )織物之表面性、外觀之評估 對於皺折產生與否等情形爲中心，以視覺及觸感進行 評估。 ◎:表面性、外觀極爲良好 Ο :表面性、外觀良好 A :表面性、外觀略爲不佳 … X :表面性、外觀不佳 (8 )織物觸感之評估 以手接觸時之感覺作官能性評估。 ◎:觸感、輕薄感極爲良好 〇：觸感、輕薄感良好 △:觸感上有略爲厚實之感覺 X :觸感較硬、且具厚實感 (9 )縫孔鬆脫之評估 於經/緯向拉伸度爲1 5 % / 1 〇 %拉伸度之羊毛外 層布料（斜紋織物，重量2 9 0 g /m 2，厚度0 . 5 5 m m ’經/緯密度8 8 / 7 1絲）上，配合實施例所製得 之織物製作緊身裙（製作對身材尺寸寬限率爲5 %模型所 得之裏子布料，且不保留摺曲部分），經穿用4週後觀察 -40- 本紙張义度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公釐） c請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) ---I — HI . I I----1*&quot; 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 44513 7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 A7 B7 五、發明說明（38) 其縫孔鬆脫程度之變化。評估之方法係以在〇 . 5 k g / 2 . 54 cm之負荷狀態下’讀取縫孔兩側鬆脫度之最大 値，以作爲縫孔鬆脫値之評估。 (1 0 )穿用感之評估 於經/緯向拉伸度爲1 5% /1 0¾拉伸度之羊毛外 層布料（斜紋織物，重量290g/m2’厚度〇 55 m m，經/緯密度8 8 / 7 1絲）上’配合實施例所製得 之織物製作緊身裙（製作對身材尺寸寬限率爲5%模型所 得之裏子布料，且不保留摺曲部分），以評估人員穿用時 之感覺作爲官能評估之依據。 ◎:穿著感極爲良好 〇：穿著感良好 :穿著感上略有不舒服感 X :穿著感不佳 (1 1 )穿著時壓力之測定方法 使用A Μ I公司製衣服壓力測定計（型式： AMI 3037 — 10)，將其10點之探針以左右臀部 各設置5點之方式，評估其穿著用緊身裙之壓力，以蹲下 之動作測定其穿用壓力，並以1 0點之平均値作爲測定値 〇 以下實施例1〜11、比較例1〜7中，平組織之織 物係爲緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲。 -41 - 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公餐） I-- I ------I . * I I I----^« — — 1 —---—^ (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 445 1 3 7 A7 ______B7__ 五、發明說明（39) L: 施例1〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 2 4 f之聚對苯.：甲酸乙：醇 醋、緯向絲使用7 5 d / 3 6 ί之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯 之雙加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 5 〇 T /Μ，第一加 熱器溫度220t： ’第二加熱器溫度1 8〇t，第二加熱 器區域進料率+ 2 0 % )織製經向絲密度丄〇 ◦絲/英吋 、緯向絲密度8 1絲/英吋、重量5〇^/爪2、製織後織 物寬度1 3 1 · 5 c m之平組織的原料布。 該原料布使m針板拉幅機以1 9 〇 °C X 3 0秒之條件 F ^對原料織物進行5 %寬度收縮之步驟„其次使用液流 染色機於含有2 g / 1碳酸鈉與2 g / i斯可輪（花王股 份有限公Π]製）之水溶液中，以1 3 〇 t / 1 〇分之條件 卜進行精練。其後’使用液流染色機依表1所記載之條件 進行染色，經還原洗淨後得染色織物。此染色織物依表^ 所記載之條件進行整理加工後得裏子布料。 -裝--------訂---------'^' — (請先閱讀背面之注^Φ項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印製 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 χ 297公釐） -42- 4451 3 7 A7B7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 五、發明說明（4(ΐ) 表1 染色加工條件 染色加工條件 染色料 液流染色法 染料 C. I DISPERSE BLUE 291 1 %owf 分散劑 迪士巴-TL lg/L (明成化學社製：得摩爾型） PH調整劑 酢酸0·5CC/L 染色溫度 1 3 0 °C 染色時間 3 0分 表2 整理加工條件 修飾方法 軋染法 撥水劑 NK 卡特 FGN800 1 w t % (日華化學社製） 抗靜電劑 米龍 AS222 1 w t % (米西油脂社製） 註1 )整理加下歩驟 加工液之S泡、脫水 -乾燥- 熱處理 擠軋機壓力 5kg/cnr 100 °C x 1 分 1 70 &quot;C x 30 秒 實施例2〕 除將實施例1中熱處珊時寬度收縮率改爲1 0 %以外 --------訂·---------^* (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 本纸張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） -43- 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 445 1 3 7 _______ B7 五、發明說明（41) ，K他皆依實施例].相同之方法進行，得裏子布料。 [寶施例3〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 2 4 ί之聚對苯一.甲酸乙二醇 酯、緯向絲使用7 5 d / 3 6 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯 之單加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 0 〇 T/M，假撚加 熱器溫度2 2 0 t ) ’以織製經向絲密度1 2 1絲/英吋 、緯向絲密度8 2絲/英吋、重量5 9 g / ιτι 2、製織後原 料織物寬度爲1 2 3 . 0 c m之平組織的原料布。 該原料布使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件 下，對原料織物進行5 %寬度收縮之步驟。其次對寬度收 縮之織物依表3記載之條件使用開口皂洗型連續精練機進 行精練。其後，依表4所記載之條件進行鹼減量加工。經 鹼減a加工所得之織物依實施例1相同方法進行染色、整 理加丄後得適用之裏子布料。 表3 精練方法 連續稱練機工程 精練一水洗—脫水一乾fe?C mo bit single-force force-degree of curvature and torsion 1 Width 5 m C 5 mc / m -39- in side difference This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 g) 445137 A7 B7 V. Explanation of the invention (37) 値 divided by the deflection ratio (1 cm—M average 値 (gf · cm2 / cm) 値.) (7) Evaluation of the surface and appearance of the fabric. Situation-centered, visual and tactile assessments. ◎: Surface property and appearance are very good 〇: Surface property and appearance are good A: Surface property and appearance are slightly poor ... X: Surface property and appearance are not good Sex assessment. ◎: Excellent touch and lightness. 0: Good touch and lightness. △: Slightly thick feel on the touch. X: Hard and soft feel on the touch. / Wool outer fabric with a 15% / 10% elongation (twill fabric, weight 290 g / m 2, thickness 0.5 0.5 mm 'warp / weft density 8 8/7 1 Silk), with the fabric prepared in the example to make a tight skirt (making the dimensional cloth with a 5% tolerance on the size of the model, without retaining the bent part), observe after wearing for 4 weeks -40- The meaning of this paper applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210x297 mm) c Please read the notes on the back before filling this page) --- I — HI. I I ---- 1 * &quot; Ministry of Economic Affairs Printed by the Intellectual Property Bureau employee consumer cooperatives 44513 7 Printed by the Intellectual Property Bureau employee consumer cooperatives A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (38) Changes in the degree of loosening of its slits. The method of evaluation is to read the maximum 松 of the looseness on both sides of the slit under a load of 0.5 k g / 2. 54 cm, as an evaluation of the looseness of the slit. (1 0) Evaluation of wearing feeling is made of wool outer fabric with warp / weft stretch of 1 5% / 1 0¾ stretch (twill fabric, weight 290g / m2 'thickness 055mm, warp / weft density 8 8/7 1 silk) on the fabric made in the example to make a tight skirt (made lining fabric obtained with a 5% allowance for body size model, without retaining the bent part), in order to evaluate the personnel wearing Feelings serve as the basis for functional evaluation. ◎: Very comfortable to wear. 〇: Good to wear: Slightly uncomfortable to wear. X: Poor to wear (1 1). The method of measuring the pressure when wearing is using a clothing pressure meter (type: AMI) 3037 — 10), set the 10-point probe with 5 points on the left and right buttocks, evaluate the pressure on the tight skirt for wearing, measure the wearing pressure by squatting, and take an average of 10 points. As the measurement, in the following Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7, the fabric of the flat weave was a false-twisted yarn using polyester-based long fibers as the weft yarn. -41-This paper size is applicable to Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 meals) I-- I ------ I. * II I ---- ^ «— — 1 —--- — ^ (Please read the notes on the back before filling out this page) 445 1 3 7 A7 ______B7__ V. Description of the Invention (39) L: Example 1] Use poly-p-phenylene with warp yarns of 5 0 d / 2 4 f .: Formic acid: alcohol, vinegar, and weft yarns. 7 5 d / 3 6 ί polyethylene terephthalate double heater false twist processing yarn (false twist number 3 3 5 〇T / M, No. First heater temperature 220t: 'Second heater temperature 180o, second heater zone feed rate + 20%) woven warp yarn density 丄 〇◦ silk / inch, weft yarn density 8 1 wire / Inch, weight 5〇 ^ / claw 2, weaving fabric with a flat weave of 1 3 1 · 5 cm. The raw material cloth makes the m-needle tenter machine at a condition of 190 ° CX 30 seconds. F ^ shrinks the raw fabric with a 5% width. Secondly, the liquid dyeing machine is used to contain 2 g / 1 sodium carbonate and 2 g / i Scooter (manufactured by Kao Co., Ltd.) in an aqueous solution, refined on the condition of 130 tt / 10 minutes. Thereafter, 'using a liquid flow dyeing machine according to the conditions described in Table 1 Dyed, washed with reduction to get dyed fabric. This dyed fabric is processed according to the conditions described in Table ^ to obtain lining fabric. -Packing -------- Order --------- '^' — (Please read the note ^ Φ on the back before filling this page) The consumer cooperation of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Du printed this paper The size of the paper applies to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 χ 297 mm)- 42- 4451 3 7 A7B7 Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 5. Description of the invention (4 (ΐ) Table 1 Dyeing processing conditions Dyeing processing conditions Dyeing liquid flow dyeing method Dye C. I DISPERSE BLUE 291 1% owf dispersion Disco-TL lg / L (Ming Sung Chemical Co., Ltd .: Molar type) pH adjuster acetic acid 0.5CC / L Dyeing temperature Degree 1 3 0 ° C Dyeing time 30 points Table 2 Finishing processing conditions Modification method Pad dyeing method Water repellent NK Carter FGN800 1 wt% (manufactured by Nisshin Chemical Co., Ltd.) Antistatic agent Milong AS222 1 wt% (Misi Oil Co., Ltd.) Note 1) S foaming, dehydration-drying-heat-treating press pressure of 5 kg / cnr 100 ° C x 1 minute 1 70 &quot; C x 30 seconds for finishing and adding processing liquid is added. 1 The width shrinkage rate at the middle of the heat is changed to other than 10% -------- Order · --------- ^ * (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) The paper size applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) -43- Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 445 1 3 7 _______ B7 V. Description of the invention (41) Example]. The same method was performed to obtain lining cloth. [宝 施 例 3] Poly-p-phenylene with a warp yarn of 50 d / 2 4 ί. Use of formate and weft yarn 7 5 d / 3 6 f polyethylene terephthalate single heater false twist processing yarn (false twist number 3 3 0 〇T / M, false twist heater temperature 2 2 0 t) Wire density 1 2 1 Silk / inch, weft yarn density 8 2 silk / inch, weight 5 9 g / ιτι 2. After weaving, weaving raw fabric with a flat weave of 1 2 3.0 cm. This raw fabric is subjected to a 5% width shrinking step on a raw fabric using a pin tenter at a temperature of 190 ° C X 30 seconds. Next, the width-shrinked fabric was scoured using an open soaping type continuous scouring machine according to the conditions described in Table 3. Thereafter, alkali reduction processing was performed under the conditions described in Table 4. The fabric obtained after the alkali-reduction a process was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 and then treated to obtain suitable lining fabrics. Table 3 Scouring method Continuous weighing of the scouring machine project Scouring-washing-dehydrating-drying fe?

9 0 C 8 0 =C 1 2 0 °C9 0 C 8 0 = C 1 2 0 ° C

N a Ο Η 5 g / L 界面活性劑 2 g / L I (陽離子系）____ 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS&gt;A4規格（210 x 297公釐）.-44- (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝--------訂--------- A7 445137 ______Β7___ 五、發明說明（42) 表4 鹼減量加工條件 減量加工法 軋蒸法 苛性鈉 2 5 0 g / 1 浸透劑 尼奧德NA3010g/l 收縮率 4 0重量％ 減量率 8重量％ (請先間讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 〔實施例4〕 除將實施例3中寬度收縮率改爲1 〇 %以外，其他皆 依實施例3相同之方法進行，得適用之裏子布料。 〔實施例5〕 將實施例3所得之原料布置於表3記載之開口皂洗機 中施以連續精練。其中，精練溫度及水洗溫度皆爲5 0°C 以下。所得精練後之織物使用針板拉幅機於1 9 0 t： / 經濟部智慧財產局員Η消費合作社印製 3 0秒之條件’以對原料織物寬設定爲1 〇 %寬度收縮下 依實施例3相同之方法進行染色加工。 〔K施例6 ] 除將實施例3中熱處理時之寬度收縮率改爲1 5 %以 外’其他皆依實施例3相同之方法進行。 -45- * &lt; V J - \ ,w 5 F X ) X 一 Ϊ ? ·' ' I- 445 1 3 A7 B7 五、發明說明（43) 〔實施例7〕 除將實施例1中熱處理條件設定爲1 8 〇 t； / 6 0秒 以外，其他皆依實施例1相同之方法進行。 〔實施例8〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 3 Ο ί之銅胺人纖法z纖維與 、緯向絲爲7 5 d/3 6 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯之單 加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 Ο Ο T/M，假燃加熱器 溫度2 2 0 °C )，以織製經向絲密度1 3 1絲/英吋、.緯 向絲密度8 2絲/英吋、重量6 3 g /m 2、製織後原料織 物寬度爲1 3 2 . 0 cm之平組織的原料布》 該原料布於1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件下*對原料織物 進行1 0 %寬度收縮之步驟。其次在依表3記載之條件進 行去除糊劑之精練步驟後，依表5所記載之條件進行染色 後，依表6記載之條件進行樹脂加工後得適用之裏子布料 ----------- ^--------訂---------f (請先閉讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁&gt; 經濟部智慧財產局員工湞費合作社印*'1衣 -46- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 145]3 7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 Α7 Β7 五、發明說明（45) 〔實施例9〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 3 3 f之黏膠法人纖與、緯向 絲爲7 5 d/3 6 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙醇酯之單加熱器 假撚加T.絲（假撚數3 3 0 0 T / Μ，加熱器溫度2 2 0 '_C )，以織製經向絲密度1 1 5絲/英吋、緯向絲密度 8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 3 2 . 〇 c m之 平組織的原料布。 該原料布於1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件下，對原料織物 進行1 .0 %寬度收縮之步驟，其後依實施例8相同條件下 進行去除糊劑之精練步驟、染色、樹脂加工後得適用之裏 子布料。 〔實施例1 0〕 使用經向絲爲7 5 d / 3 6 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇 酯與，緯向絲爲7 5 d / 3 6 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇g旨 之單加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 0 0 T/μ，單加熱 器溫度2 2 0 t ) ’以織製經向絲密度1 2 1絲/英时、 緯向絲密度8 2絲/英吋、重量5 9 g /m 2、製織後原料 織物寬度爲1 3 2 . 0 c m之平組織的原料仞„ 其後對原料織物依實施例3相同條件下進行寬度收縮 、精練、染色、整理加工後得適用之裏子布料。 ί:實施例1 1 : 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CN'S)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝--------訂-------Ι_46ν! B7 五、發明說明（46) 使用實施例1 0所得之原料織物，依實施例4相同條 件Τ進行寬度收縮、精練、染色、整理加Ί:後得適用之裏 子布料。 〔比較例1〕 除未進行贳施例1精練前之熱處理步驟以外，其他皆 依實施例1相同方式進行加工。所得裏子布料之整理加工 之寬度爲1 Ο 1 C m，其與織製後之織物寬度比較時，所 得之寬度收縮率爲2 3 % 。 〔比較例2〕 使用苡施例1製織所得之原料織物（1 3 1 . 5 c m )，使用具有與實施例1相同精練液之液流染色機於 1 3 0 t / 1 0分條件下精練後1以針板拉幅機於1 9 0 t X 3 0秒之條件下，對製織後之織物進行1 〇 %寬度收 縮並於同寬度（1 1 8 . 4 c m )下進行熱處理，又’其 後之染色、整理加工等步驟皆依實施例1相同方法進行處 埋，而製得適用之裏/·布料= 「比較例3 :] 將依贾施例1相冋方法織製之織物’除寬度收縮率爲 3 %以外，真他皆依實施例1相同方法進行處理，而製得 適用之裏f布料。 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公釐） _ 49 - (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝--------訂---------#&amp; 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 A7 B7 五、發明說明（47) [比較例4〕 將依實施例3相同方法織製之織物，除寬度收縮率爲 2 0%以外，其他皆依實施例1相同方法進行處理，而製 得適用之裏子布料。 ί比較例5〕 除將實施例1中熱處理溫度改爲1 5 0 °C / 2分以外 ，其他皆依實施例1相同方法進行處理，而製得適用之裏 子布料。 〔比較例6〕 除將實施例1中熱處理溫度改爲2 2 0 t/ 1 〇秒以 外，其他皆依實施例1相同方法進行處理，而製得適用之 裏子布料。 〔比較例7〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 2 4 f之聚酯系長纖維（具蕊 鞘結構之抗靜電絲）與、緯向絲爲7 5 d / 3 6 f之聚醋 系長纖維圓形截面之原絲’以織製經向絲密度1 2 0絲/ 英吋、緯向絲密度8 0絲/英吋、重量5 0 g /m 2、製織 後原料織物寬度爲1 3 3 c m之平組織的原料布。其後以 123cm寬度（寬度收縮率=8% )下，進行19crc X 1 0秒之預定型，其次以液流染色機依表1記載之條件 進行染色後，再進行爲去除多於染料之還原洗淨並予以乾 -50- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） (請先閱讀背面之江意事項再填寫本頁w ----— — It 訂---I I----· 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 4451 3 7 A7 ______B7___ 五、發明說明（48 ) 燥。修飾之步驟係依表2所記載之內容進行加工。 實施例1〜1 1及比較例1〜7所得裏子布料之拉伸 度、動摩擦係數、織物緯向絲撓曲率係數値（撓曲率+ { (經向絲纖度d ) 1 ' 2 X經向絲密度丨）、縫孔鬆脫、外 觀、觸感 '彎曲硬度、穿用感、穿著壓力等評估結果皆集 中記載於表7中。 &lt;請先閱讀背面之注項再填寫本頁) 裝------- 訂·ί!ιιΛ1 經濟即智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印製 -51 - 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） A7 B7 五 昍P 明 發 49 m ◎ N 101 ◎ o 〇 o o 〇N a 〇 Η 5 g / L Surfactant 2 g / LI (cationic) ____ This paper size applies to Chinese national standards (CNS &gt; A4 size (210 x 297 mm). -44- (Please read the note on the back first Please fill in this page again) Packing -------- Order --------- A7 445137 ______ Β7 ___ V. Description of the invention (42) Table 4 Caustic Soda for Alkali Weight Reduction Processing Conditions 5 0 g / 1 Penetrant Niodex NA3010g / l Shrinkage 40 0% by weight 8% by weight (please read the precautions on the back before filling in this page) [Example 4] Except the width in Example 3 Except that the shrinkage rate was changed to 10%, everything else was carried out in the same manner as in Example 3 to obtain a suitable lining cloth. [Example 5] The raw materials obtained in Example 3 were placed in the open soaping machine described in Table 3. Continuous scouring is performed. Among them, the scouring temperature and the washing temperature are both below 50 ° C. The obtained scoured fabric is printed with a pin tenter at 190 t: / Printed by a member of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs and Consumer Cooperatives 30 The condition of seconds is the same as that of Example 3 with the width of the raw fabric set to 10% width shrinkage. [K Example 6] Except that the width shrinkage rate during heat treatment in Example 3 was changed to 15% ', the other methods were performed in the same manner as in Example 3. -45- * &lt; VJ-\, w 5 FX) X Ϊ · · '' I- 445 1 3 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (43) [Example 7] Except that the heat treatment conditions in Example 1 were set to 180 ot; / 60 seconds The rest are performed in the same manner as in Example 1. [Example 8] A single unit of copper amine human fiber z fiber with warp yarns of 50 d / 3 〇 and polyethylene terephthalate with weft yarns of 7 5 d / 3 6 f Heater false twist processing yarn (false twist number 3 3 Ο Ο T / M, false burn heater temperature 2 2 0 ° C) to weave warp yarn density 1 3 1 yarn / inch, weft yarn density 8 2 silks / inch, weight 63 3 g / m 2. Raw fabric with a flat structure with a width of 132.0 cm after weaving. The raw fabric is at 19 ° CX 30 seconds * Perform a 10% width shrinkage step on the raw fabric. Next, after performing the scouring step for removing paste in accordance with the conditions described in Table 3, dyeing in accordance with the conditions described in Table 5, and then applying resin processing in accordance with the conditions described in Table 6 can be applied to the lining cloth --- ----- ^ -------- Order --------- f (Please close the notes on the back before filling out this page &gt; Printed by the Intellectual Property Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs * '1 衣 -46- This paper size is in accordance with Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) 145] 3 7 Printed by the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs' Consumer Cooperatives Α7 Β7 V. Description of Invention (45) 〔 Example 9] Single heater false twist plus T using a polyester rayon with a warp yarn of 50 d / 3 3 f and a polyethylene terephthalate with a weft yarn of 7 5 d / 3 6 f . Silk (false twist number 3 3 0 T / M, heater temperature 2 2 0'_C), weaving warp yarn density 1 15 silk / inch, weft yarn density 8 2 silk / inch, After weaving, the raw material fabric with a flat weave width of 132.0 cm is prepared. The raw material fabric is subjected to a 1.0% width shrinking step on the raw material fabric at a temperature of 190 ° CX 30 seconds. Under the same conditions as in Example 8 After performing the scouring step of removing paste, dyeing, and resin processing, a suitable lining fabric was obtained. [Example 10] Using polyethylene terephthalate with warp yarns of 7 5 d / 3 6 f and Single heater false twist processing yarn with 7 5 d / 3 6 f polyethylene terephthalate g (false twist number 3 3 0 0 T / μ, single heater temperature 2 2 0 t ) 'When weaving warp yarn density 1 2 1 yarn / inch, weft yarn density 8 2 yarn / inch, weight 5 9 g / m 2. The width of the raw material fabric after weaving is 1 3 2.0 cm The raw material of the structure 仞 „The raw material fabric was then subjected to width shrinkage, scouring, dyeing, and finishing processing under the same conditions as in Example 3. The lining fabrics that can be applied after being processed under the same conditions as in Example 3: Example 1 1: This paper size applies Chinese national standards ( CN'S) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) (Please read the precautions on the back before filling out this page) Installation -------- Order -------- I_46ν! B7 V. Description of the invention (46 ) Using the raw material fabric obtained in Example 10, the width shrinkage, scouring, dyeing, and finishing were performed in accordance with the same conditions T of Example 4 and then added: the applicable lining fabric was obtained. [Comparative Example 1] Except Except that the heat treatment step before the scouring of Example 1 was not performed, the rest were processed in the same manner as in Example 1. The width of the finishing processing of the obtained lining fabric was 1 0 1 C m, which was compared with the width of the woven fabric after weaving. The obtained width shrinkage ratio was 23%. [Comparative Example 2] The raw fabric (1 3 1.5 cm) obtained by weaving in Example 1 was used, and a liquid flow dyeing machine having the same scouring liquid as in Example 1 was used. After refining under the condition of 1 3 0 t / 10 minutes, 1 with a pin tenter at 19 0 t X 30 seconds, the fabric after the weaving is contracted by 10% width and the same width (1 1 8.4 cm)), and 'the subsequent steps of dyeing, finishing, etc. were buried in the same way as in Example 1, and the applicable lining was made. · Cloth = "Comparative Example 3:] Except that the width shrinkage of the fabric woven by the method of Example 1 was 3%, it was treated in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a suitable fabric. This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210x297 mm) _ 49-(Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) -# & Printed by the Consumer Property Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs A7 B7 V. Description of the Invention (47) [Comparative Example 4] A fabric woven according to the same method as in Example 3, except that the width shrinkage rate is 20% The others are processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a suitable lining cloth. Comparative Example 5] Except that the heat treatment temperature in Example 1 was changed to 150 ° C / 2 minutes, the others were treated in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a suitable lining cloth. [Comparative Example 6] Except that the heat treatment temperature in Example 1 was changed to 220 t / 100 seconds, the others were treated in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a suitable lining cloth. [Comparative Example 7] Polyester-based long fibers (antistatic filaments with a core and sheath structure) with warp yarns of 50 d / 2 4 f and polyacetate with 7 5 d / 3 6 f warp yarns were used. Long-fiber circular cross-section raw yarns are made with a warp yarn density of 120 yarns / inch, a weft yarn density of 80 yarns / inch, and a weight of 50 g / m2. The width of the raw fabric after weaving is 1 3 3 cm flat cloth. After that, a predetermined pattern of 19 crc X 10 seconds was performed at a width of 123 cm (width shrinkage rate = 8%), followed by dyeing with a liquid flow dyeing machine according to the conditions described in Table 1, and then performing reduction to remove more than dye Wash and dry -50- This paper size is in accordance with China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) (Please read the Italian notice on the back before filling in this page w ---- —-It Order- --I I ---- · Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 4451 3 7 A7 ______B7___ 5. Description of the invention (48) Dry. The modified steps are processed according to the content described in Table 2. ~ 11 1 and the tensile strength, dynamic friction coefficient, and weft coefficient of weft of the lining fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 7 値 (deflection + {(warp yarn fineness d) 1 '2 X warp yarn density 丨), Loosening of the holes, appearance, tactile 'bending hardness, wearing feeling, wearing pressure and other evaluation results are collectively recorded in Table 7. &lt; Please read the note on the back before filling this page) ---- Order · ί! ΙιΛ1 Economy is Intellectual Property Bureau Consumption Cooperation Staff Du-51-This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) A7 B7 5 昍 P Mingfa 49 m ◎ N 101 ◎ o 〇 o o 〇

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II - -52- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（2〗0 x 297公釐） A7 445 1 3 7 _____B7____________ 五、發明說明（5G) (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 由表7內容可了解本發明之裏子布料，爲一種較比較 例更不易引起縫孔鬆脫，且表面具有優良平滑性，穿著之 壓力較低，且具有良好觸感之裏子布料。 以下實施例1 2〜1 8及比較例8〜1 1，係緯向絲 使用聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲之斜紋組織（2 / 1斜紋 組織）之裏子布料例。 〔實施例1 2〕 - 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/2 4 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇 酯、緯向絲使用7 5 d/3 6 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯 之雙加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 5 OT/M，第一加 熱器溫度2 2 0 t，第二加熱器溫度1 8 0 °C，第二加熱 器區域進料率+ 2 0 % )織製經向絲密度1 5 0絲/英吋 、緯向絲密度8 2絲/英吋、製織後織物寬度1 3 2 c m 之斜紋組織的原料織物。 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 該原料織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條 件下，對原料織物進行1 2 %寬度收縮之步驟。其次使用 液流染色機於含有2 g/ 1碳酸鈉與2 g/ 1斯可輪（花 王股份有限公司製）之水溶液中，以1 3 0 °C / 1 0分之 條件下進行精練。其後，使用液流染色機依表1所記載之 條件進行染色，其次以還原洗淨方式將多餘之染料洗淨後 乾燥。依表2所記載之條件進行加工後得適用之裏子布料 -53- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公爱） r 445 1 Ί Λ7 B7 五、發明說明（51) [實施例1 3〕 除將費施例1 2中經向絲密度設定爲1 6 3絲，熱處 理時寬度收縮率改爲8 %以外，其他皆依實施例1 2相同 之方法進行，得裏子布料》 〔實施例1 4〕 使用與實施例1 2相同之絲，織製經向絲密度1 2 5 絲/英吋、緯向絲密度8 5絲/英吋 '製織後織物寬度 1 3 2 c m之斜紋組織的原料織物。所得原料織物依實施 例1 2之相冏方法進行寬度收縮、精練、染色、整理加工 等，而製得裏子布料。 [實施例1 5〕 使用經向絲爲7 5 d / 2 4 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇 酯 '緯向絲使用7 5 d / 3 6 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯 之單加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 0 0 T /Μ，加熱器 溫度2 2 0 °C )織製經向絲密度1 2 4絲/英吋、緯向絲 密度8 2絲/英吋、製織後織物寬度1 2 3 · 0 c m之斜 紋組織的原料織物。 所得股料織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 t： X 3 0秒之 條ίΤ.下，對原料織物進行1 5 %寬度收縮之步驟。其次依 表3記載之條件使用開Π皂洗型連續精練機進行精練ώ其 後，依表4所記載之條件進驗減董力丨丨工。經驗減量加工 所得之織物依實施例1相冋方法進行染色、整理加工後得 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) -------- I I I Ϊ 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 -54- A7 t 446 1 3 ? B7______ 五、發明說明（52) 裏子布料。 〔實施例1 6〕 除將實施例1 5中寬度收縮率改爲8 %以外，其他皆 依實施例1 5相同之方法進行，得裏子布料。 〔實施例1 7〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/3 0 f之銅胺人纖法長纖維與 '緯向絲爲7 5 d/3 6 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯之單 加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 Ο Ο T/M，單加熱器溫 度220°C)，以織製經向絲密度170絲/英吋、緯向 絲密度8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 3 2 . 〇 c m之斜紋組織的原料織物。 該原料織物於1 9 0 t X 3 0秒之條件下，對原料織 物進行8 %寬度收縮之步驟。其次在依表3記載之條件進 行去除糊劑之精練步驟後，依表5所記載之條件進行染色 後，依表6記載之條件進行樹脂加工後得裏子布料。 〔實施例1 8〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 3 3 f之黏謬法人纖長纖維與 、緯向絲爲75d/36 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯之單 加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 0 0 T/M，加熱器溫度 2 2 0 °C ) ’以織製經向絲密度1 3 5絲/英吋、緯向絲 密度8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 3 2 . 〇 本紙張尺度適用中國國私標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） --- ------------- t---I I---訂--— — — — — — ί請先閱讀背面之;i意事項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 -55- 445 1 3 A7 B7 五、發明說明（53) C 1Ή之斜紋組織的原料布。 該原料織物於1 9 〇 °c X 3 物進fx 1 5 % Η度收縮之步驟， 件下進打去除糊劑之精練步驟、 布料 〇秒之條件下，對原料織 其後依實施例1 7相同條 染色、樹脂加工後得裏子 〔比較例8〕 除未進行實施例1 2精練前之熱處理步驟以外，其他 皆依實施例1相冋方式進行加工.所得裏子布料之整埋加 工之寬度爲1 0 6 c m，其與織製後之織物寬度比較時， 所得之寬度收縮率爲2 0 % 。 〔比較例9〕 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 使用實施例1 2製織所得之原料織物（1 3 2 ^ m ) ，使用具有與實施例1相同精練液之液流染色機於1 3 0 :C / 1 0分條件下精練後’以針板拉幅機於1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件下’對製織後之織物進行5 %寬度收縮並於 同^度（1 2 5 c in )下進行熱處理，乂，其後之染色、 整理加工等步驟皆依實施例1 2相同方法進行處理，而製 ί§裏.Γ布料。 :比較例1 0〕 將與贲施例1相同之原料織物，除寬度收縮率爲3 % 以外，其他皆依實施例1相同方法進行處理，而製得裏子 -56- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（幻〇 x 2耵公釐） w 445137 B7 五、發明說明（54) 布料。 [比較例1 1〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 2 4 f之聚酯系長纖維（具蕊 銷結構之抗靜電絲）與、緯向絲爲7 5 d/ 3 6 ί之聚醋 系長纖維圓形截面之原絲，以織製經向絲密度1 5 0絲/ 英吋、緯向絲密度8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲 1 3 3 c m之斜紋組織的織物。所得織物依表3所記載之 條件下進行精練。其後以1 22 cm寬度（寬度收縮率= 8 % )下，進行1 9 0 t X 1 0秒之預定型，其次以液流 染色機依表1記載之條件進行染色後，再進行爲去除多於 染料之還原洗淨並予以乾燥。修飾之步驟係依表2所記載 之內容進行加工。 實施例1 2〜1 8及比較例8〜1 1所得裏子布料之 拉伸度、動摩擦係數、織物緯向絲撓曲率係數値（撓曲率 +丨（經向絲纖度d ) 1 / _ X經向絲密度丨）、縫孔鬆脫 、外觀、觸感、彎曲硬度、穿用感、穿著壓力等評估結果 ----------- 裝’！---- 訂-- - -----Μ (請先閱讀背面之ii意事項再填寫本頁) 中 8 表 於 載 記 中 集 皆 蛭濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 -57- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公S ) 445 13 7 A7 發五 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印製 觸感： \ 0 〇 〇 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ 'rf iH X X 0 x硬 X平滑性不 佳 〇良好 〇良好 表If]丨性外觀 ◎ ◎ 〇 〇 ◎ ◎ ◎ x皺折 X皺折 ◎应好 ◎良好 穿用 感覺 ◎ 〇 〇 〇 〇 ◎ ◎ X X &lt;1 X 穿著時 壓力 (g/cm2) cn &lt;r^ i m a\ «Μ oo i^i CTs ^ m b _ Ϊ S oo Ο d cn 〇 0 1 &lt; \〇 o c? CO 〇 1 Η i/Ί 寸 CN 'O 緯度力Μ 撓仙硬度 (gf · cm2/cm) 0.023 1 0.025 0.021 0,020 0.022 0.024 0.022 0.015 0.019 i 0.035 0.036 撓曲率_·Μ(經 向絲d)W2 X經 向絲密度} 0.005 0.003 0.011 0.009 0.004 0.005 0.007 0.014 0.009 0.002 0.001 撓曲率 (%) 1_ F1 4 〇\ o » i _ A \6 c&gt; o 〇&gt; oo I—t 1 t S, 供 ^=. ί i i 170/83 180/84 | ! 140/86 ^r co f_ &lt; [135/84 1 [182/84 I | 152/84 | 184/86 156/85 | 153/84 | 163/84 動摩擦 係數 Ο CN 〇 m 〇 r- C^i o \Γ\ Oi o OO CNI o A o &lt;r^ 〇 寸 o OO o r- rsi 〇 —故—V 三# vD L〇 to -i r· 1 cn vo oo ON oo 1 寸 uo &gt;0 oo CN —m 1—^ 1 1 to 1- 1 卜 ήi oo &lt; H oo 〇 » I __H p—^ ：H鎰匡 -58- --------I--裝 i — ί---訂---------0 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 本紙張尺度適用中S國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） A7 445137 B7_______ 五、發明說明（56) 由表8內容可了解本發明中實施例之裏子布料，爲一 種較比較例更不易引起縫孔鬆脫，且表面具有優良平滑性 ’穿著之壓力較低，且具有柔軟觸感之裏子布料。 以下實施例1 9〜2 4及比較例1 2〜1 4，係緯向 絲使用聚酯系長纖維之原絲時平組織之裏子布料例。 〔實施例1 9〕 使用縱向絲爲5 0 d/2 4 f之聚酯系長纖維（具蕊 鞘結構之抗靜電絲）與、橫向絲使用5 0丹尼爾3 0絲之 聚酯系長纖維W形截面之原絲，以織製縱向絲密度1 2 0 絲/英吋 '橫向絲密度1 〇 〇絲/英吋、製織後原料織物 寬度爲1 4 b * 5 c m之平組織的原料布。此時橫向絲之 W截面絲之截面長、寬比爲3比1。 此時原料織物之緯向絲撓曲率經測定爲3 . 8 % 。原 料織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件下，對 織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率1 5%之處理。並依表3記 載之條件下使用開口皂洗型連續精練機予以精練，其次以 液流染色機依表1記載之條件進行染色後，再進行爲去除 多於染料之還原洗淨並予以乾燥。修飾之步驟係依表2所 記載之內容進行加工。 〔實施例2 0〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 3 6 f之聚酯系長纖維（三角 截面絲）與、緯向絲使用7 5 d/3 0 f之聚酯系長纖維 -59- 本纸張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝--------訂------ I--^ 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 445 13 7II--52- This paper size is in accordance with China National Standard (CNS) A4 (2〗 0 x 297 mm) A7 445 1 3 7 _____B7____________ 5. Description of the invention (5G) (Please read the notes on the back before filling in this (Page) According to Table 7, the lining fabric of the present invention is a lining fabric that is less likely to cause loosening of the seams than the comparative example, and has excellent smoothness on the surface, low wearing pressure, and good touch. . The following Examples 1 2 to 18 and Comparative Examples 8 to 11 are examples of lining fabrics using twill weave (2/1 twill weave) of false twisted yarns of polyester-based long fibers. [Example 1 2]-Polyethylene terephthalate with a warp yarn of 50 d / 2 4 f, and polyethylene terephthalate with a warp yarn of 7 5 d / 3 6 f Ester double heater false twist processing yarn (false twist number 3 3 5 OT / M, first heater temperature 2 2 0 t, second heater temperature 1 80 ° C, second heater zone feed rate + 2 0%) weaving raw fabrics with a warp weave density of 150 yarns / inch, weft yarn density of 82 yarns / inch, and a weave fabric width of 132 cm. Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs This raw fabric is subjected to a 12% width shrinking step on the raw fabric using a pin tenter at a temperature of 190 ° C X 30 seconds. Next, a liquid dyeing machine was used to perform scouring in an aqueous solution containing 2 g / 1 sodium carbonate and 2 g / 1 Skoll (manufactured by Kao Corporation) at 130 ° C / 10 minutes. Thereafter, dyeing was performed under the conditions described in Table 1 using a liquid dyeing machine, and then the excess dye was washed with a reduction washing method and then dried. The lining fabric that can be applied after processing according to the conditions described in Table 2 -53- This paper size applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210x297 public love) r 445 1 Ί Λ7 B7 V. Description of the invention (51) [ Example 1 3] Except that the warp yarn density in Fei Example 12 was set to 163 wires, and the width shrinkage rate was 8% during heat treatment, the other methods were performed in the same manner as in Example 12 Cloth》 [Example 1 4] Using the same silk as in Example 12, weaving warp yarn density 1 2 5 silk / inch, weft yarn density 8 5 silk / inch 'woven fabric width 1 3 2 cm twill weave raw fabric. The obtained raw material fabric was subjected to width shrinkage, scouring, dyeing, finishing processing, etc. according to the method described in Example 12 to prepare a lining fabric. [Example 1 5] Polyethylene terephthalate with 7 5 d / 2 4 f warp yarn was used. Polyethylene terephthalate with 7 5 d / 3 6 f warp yarn was used. Single heater false twist processing yarn (false twist number 3 3 0 0 T / M, heater temperature 2 2 0 ° C) weaving warp yarn density 1 2 4 yarn / inch, weft yarn density 8 2 yarn / Inch, weaving fabric with a twill weave of 1 2 3 · 0 cm after weaving. The obtained strand fabric was subjected to a 15% width shrinking step on the raw fabric with a pin tenter at a strip length of 180 t: X 30 seconds. Secondly, use the open soap-type continuous scouring machine to perform scouring according to the conditions described in Table 3. After that, the labor force will be reduced according to the conditions described in Table 4. The fabric obtained by experience weight reduction is dyed and processed according to the relative method of Example 1. The paper size is applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm). (Please read the precautions on the back before filling in this. Page) -------- III 印 Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs-54- A7 t 446 1 3? B7______ 5. Description of the invention (52) Lining cloth. [Example 16] Aside from changing the width shrinkage ratio in Example 15 to 8%, the same procedure as in Example 15 was performed to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 1 7] A copper amine human fiber long fiber having warp yarns of 50 d / 3 0 f and a polyethylene terephthalate having a weft yarn of 7 5 d / 3 6 f were used. Single heater false twist processing yarn (false twist number 3 3 Ο Ο T / M, single heater temperature 220 ° C), weaving warp yarn density 170 silk / inch, weft yarn density 8 2 silk / inch Inch, the raw material fabric with a twill weave width of 132.0 cm after weaving. This raw fabric was subjected to a step of 8% width shrinkage on the raw fabric under the condition of 190 t X 30 seconds. Next, after performing the scouring step for removing paste in accordance with the conditions described in Table 3, dyeing was performed in accordance with the conditions described in Table 5, and resin processing was performed in accordance with the conditions described in Table 6 to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 1 8] Single heater false twisting using viscous legal person long fibers with warp yarns of 50 d / 3 3 f and polyethylene terephthalate with weft yarns of 75 d / 36 f Processed yarn (false twist number 3 3 0 0 T / M, heater temperature 2 2 0 ° C) 'to weave warp yarn density 1 3 5 yarns / inch, weft yarn density 8 2 yarns / inch, The width of the raw material fabric after weaving is 1 3 2. 〇 This paper size is applicable to China National Private Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) --- ------------- t-- -I I --- Order --- — — — — — ί Please read the back; I will fill in this page before filling out this page) Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs -55- 445 1 3 A7 B7 V. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (53) A raw fabric of a twill weave of C 1Ή. The raw material fabric was shrunk at a temperature of 190 ° C X 3 to fx 15%, and then the paper was subjected to a scouring step to remove the paste, and the cloth was knitted for 0 seconds. The raw material was then knitted according to Example 1 7 The same strip was dyed and resin processed. [Comparative Example 8] Except that the heat treatment steps before Example 1 2 were not refined, the rest were processed in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained lining fabric was embedded. The width is 10 6 cm. When compared with the width of the woven fabric, the width shrinkage obtained is 20%. [Comparative Example 9] The consumer cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs printed and used the raw material fabric (1 3 2 ^ m) produced in Example 12 and used a liquid dyeing machine with the same scouring liquid as in Example 1 at 1 3 0: C / 10 minutes after scouring 'with a pin tenter at 19 0 ° CX 30 seconds' to shrink the woven fabric by 5% width and at the same degree (1 2 5 c in), heat treatment, 乂, subsequent dyeing, finishing and other steps are processed in the same manner as in Example 12 to produce §§.Γ cloth. : Comparative Example 1 0] The same raw material fabric as in Example 1 was used, except that the width shrinkage was 3%, and the rest were treated in the same manner as in Example 1 to produce lizi. National Standard (CNS) A4 Specification (Magic 0x 2 耵 mm) w 445137 B7 V. Description of Invention (54) Cloth. [Comparative Example 1 1] Polyester-based long fiber (antistatic wire with a core pin structure) with warp yarns of 50 d / 2 4 f and polyacetate with 7 5 d / 3 6 liters of weft yarns were used. It is a long-fiber circular cross-section raw yarn with a twill weave with a warp yarn density of 150 yarns / inch, a weft yarn density of 82 yarns / inch, and a raw fabric with a width of 1 3 3 cm. Fabric. The obtained fabric was scoured under the conditions described in Table 3. After that, a predetermined pattern of 190 t X 10 seconds was performed at a width of 1 22 cm (width shrinkage rate = 8%), followed by dyeing with a liquid flow dyeing machine according to the conditions described in Table 1, and then removing it. Wash more than the dyes and dry them. The modification steps are processed according to the contents described in Table 2. Example 1 2 ~ 18 and Comparative Examples 8 ~ 1 1 The elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, and weft deflection coefficient of the woven fabric 値 (deflection + 丨 (warp silk fineness d) 1 / _ X Warp yarn density 丨), loosening of slits, appearance, touch, bending hardness, feeling of wearing, wearing pressure and other evaluation results ----------- installed '! ---- Order------- Μ (Please read the notice on the back of the page before filling out this page) Form 8 in the CIMC Jiji Ministry of Economic Affairs Bureau Intellectual Property Bureau Employee Consumption Cooperative Print -57 -This paper size is in accordance with Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 male S) 445 13 7 A7. The consumer cooperation of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Fifth Ministry of Economic Affairs has been printed. Touch: \ 0 〇〇 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ 'rf iH XX 0 x Hard X Smoothness is not good 〇 Good 〇 Good table If] 丨 Appearance ◎ ◎ 〇〇 ◎ ◎ ◎ x Wrinkle X Wrinkle ◎ Should be good ◎ Good wearing feeling ◎ 〇〇〇〇 ◎ XX &lt; 1 X Pressure when wearing (g / cm2) cn &lt; r ^ ima \ «Μ oo i ^ i CTs ^ mb _ Ϊ S oo 〇 d cn 〇0 1 &lt; \ 〇oc? CO 〇1 Η i / Ί Inch CN 'O Latitude Force MF Torsional Hardness (gf · cm2 / cm) 0.023 1 0.025 0.021 0,020 0.022 0.024 0.022 0.015 0.019 i 0.035 0.036 Deflection _ · M (Warp d) W2 X Warp Thread Density} 0.005 0.003 0.011 0.009 0.004 0.005 0.007 0.014 0.009 0.002 0.001 Deflection (%) 1_ F1 4 〇 \ o »i _ A \ 6 c &gt; o 〇 &gt; oo I—t 1 t S, for ^ =. Ί ii 17 0/83 180/84 |! 140/86 ^ r co f_ &lt; [135/84 1 [182/84 I | 152/84 | 184/86 156/85 | 153/84 | 163/84 Dynamic coefficient of friction 0 CN 〇m 〇r- C ^ io \ Γ \ Oi o OO CNI o A o &lt; r ^ 〇inch o OO o r- rsi 〇— 故 —V 三 # vD L〇to -ir · 1 cn vo oo ON oo 1 inch uo &gt; 0 oo CN —m 1— ^ 1 1 to 1- 1 Price i oo &lt; H oo 〇 »I __H p— ^: H 镒 匡 -58- -------- I- -装 i — ί --- Order --------- 0 (Please read the precautions on the back before filling out this page) This paper size is applicable to S National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297) (Centi) A7 445137 B7_______ V. Description of the invention (56) The contents of Table 8 can be used to understand the inner fabric of the embodiment of the present invention, which is less likely to cause loosening of the holes than the comparative example, and the surface has excellent smoothness. Liner fabric with low pressure and soft touch. The following Examples 1-9 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2-14 are examples of lining fabrics in which the weft-oriented yarns are made of polyester-based long-fiber yarns with a flat structure. [Example 1 9] Polyester-based long fibers with longitudinal filaments of 50 d / 2 4 f (antistatic filaments with a core sheath structure) and polyester-based long fibers with 50 denier and 30 filaments were used for the transverse filaments. W-shaped cross-section raw yarns are knitted with a longitudinal yarn density of 120 yarns / inch, a transverse yarn density of 100 yarns / inch, and a weaving raw fabric with a flat weave of 1 4 b * 5 cm. . At this time, the cross-sectional length and width ratio of the W-section wire of the transverse yarn were 3 to 1. At this time, the weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 3.8%. The original fabric was treated with a pin tenter at a temperature of 190 ° C X 30 seconds to give the fabric a width shrinkage of 15%. It was refined using an open soaping type continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3, followed by dyeing with a liquid dyeing machine in accordance with the conditions described in Table 1, and then carrying out reduction washing to remove more than the dye and drying. The modification steps are processed according to the contents described in Table 2. [Example 2 0] Polyester-based long fibers (triangle cross-section yarns) with warp yarns of 50 d / 3 6 f and polyester-based long fibers with 7 5 d / 3 0 f yarns were used for weft yarns. -This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) I-^ Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 445 13 7

五、發明說明（57) w形截面之原絲’以織製縱向絲密度1 2 0絲/英吋、橫 向絲密度8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲 1 45 . 5 cm之平組織的原料布。此時·緯向絲之w截面 單絲之截面長、寬比爲3比1。此時原料織物之緯向絲撓 曲率經測定爲1 . 9 % 。所得織物使用針板拉幅機以 1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收 縮率2 0¾之處理。並依表3記載之條件下使用開口皂洗 型連續精練機予以精練。其後依表4記載之條件下實施8 %•之驗減量加工’其次以液流染色機依表i記載之條件進 行染色後，再進行爲去除多於染料之還原洗淨並予以乾燥 。修飾之步驟係依表2所記載之內容進行加工，得裏子布 料。 〔實施例2 1〕 使用縱向絲爲5 0丹尼爾2 4絲之聚酯系長纖維（具 蕊鞘結構之抗靜電絲）與、橫向絲使用7 5丹尼爾7 2絲 之聚酯多纖維絲’以織製經向絲密度1 2 0絲/英吋、緯 向絲密度8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲 1 4 5 . 5 c m之平組織的原料布。原料織物之緯向絲撓 曲率經測定爲1 . 6 % 。 原料織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 t： X 3 0秒之條件 下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率1 5%之處理。並依 表3記載之條件下使用開口皂洗型連續精練機予以精練， 其次以液流染色機依表1記載之條件進行染色後，再進行 _____-60- 本紙張尺度適用帽S家標準（CNS〉A4規格（21D497公爱) ' (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁)V. Description of the invention (57) W-shaped cross-section raw yarns are made with a longitudinal yarn density of 120 yarns / inch, a transverse yarn density of 82 yarns / inch, and the width of the raw material fabric after weaving is 14.5 cm. Raw tissue of flat tissue. At this time, the w-section of the weft yarn has a cross-section length and a width ratio of 3 to 1. At this time, the weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 1.9%. The obtained fabric was treated with a pin tenter at a temperature of 190 ° C X 30 seconds, and the width of the woven fabric was reduced by 2 0¾. And use the open soaping type continuous scouring machine to perform scouring under the conditions described in Table 3. Thereafter, 8% • weight reduction processing was performed under the conditions described in Table 4 '. Second, the liquid dyeing machine was used to perform dyeing according to the conditions described in Table i, followed by reduction washing to remove more than the dye and drying. The modification steps are processed according to the content described in Table 2 to obtain the lining cloth. [Example 2 1] Polyester-based long fibers (antistatic filaments with core sheath structure) of 50 denier 2 4 filaments and polyester multifiber filaments 7 5 denier 7 2 filaments were used in the transverse direction. Weaving a flat fabric with a flat weave of warp yarn density of 120 yarns / inch, weft yarn density of 82 yarns / inch, and weaving of the raw fabric with a width of 14.5. 5 cm. The weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 1.6%. The raw fabric is treated with a needle tenter under a condition of 190 t: X 30 seconds, and a width shrinkage of 15% is applied to the woven fabric. And use the open soaping type continuous scouring machine to perform scouring under the conditions described in Table 3, and then use the liquid flow dyeing machine to perform the dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 1, and then _____ 60- This paper size applies to Cap S standards (CNS> A4 specification (21D497 public love) '' (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page)

裝！！—訂--- ----JA 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印*1^Install! !! —Order --- ---- JA Seal of Consumer Cooperatives, Intellectual Property Bureau, Ministry of Economy

% 44513T A7 B7 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印4,1^ 五、發明說明（58) 爲去除多於染料之還原洗淨並予以乾燥。修飾之步驟係依 表2所記載之內容進行加工，得裏子布料。 〔實施例2 2〕 除將實施例2 0之原料織物之經向絲密度改爲9 0絲 /英吋以外，其他皆與實施例2 0於同一條件下進行染色 加工（但省略減量加工），得裏子布料。又，原料織物之 緯向絲的撓曲率爲1 . 7 % 。 〔實施例2 3〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/3 6 f之銅胺人纖法長纖維與 、緯向絲使用7 5 d/3 0 f之聚酯系長纖維W形截面之 原絲，以織製經向絲密度1 3 1絲/英吋、緯向絲密度 8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 3 2 . 0 cm之 平組織的原料織物。緯向絲之W截面單絲之截面長、寬比 爲3比1。此時原料織物之緯向絲撓曲率經測定爲2 . 0 % 。 所得織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件 下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率2 0%之處理。其後 ，依表3記載之條件下施以去除糊劑之精練步驟，再依表 1 2記載之條件對聚酯纖維施以染色並進行還原洗滌。依 表1 1記載之條件對銅胺人纖進行染色，再依表6記載條 件進行樹脂加工，得裏子布料。 -61 - 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x 297公釐） (請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝------- 訂 ------—Α ϊ 445137 經濟部智慧財產局員工湞費合作杜印製 Α7 _____Β7 五、發明說明（59 ) 〔實施例2 4〕 使用經向絲爲5 0丹尼爾3 0絲之銅胺人纖法長纖維 與、緯向絲使用7 5丹尼爾3 0絲之聚酯長纖維w形截面 之原絲，以織製經向絲密度1 4 5絲/英吋、緯向絲密度 82絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲132.Ocm之 平組織的原料布。緯向絲之W截面單絲之截面長、寬比爲 3比1。此時原料布之緯向絲撓曲率經測定爲2 . 2 % 。 所得原料織物於1 9 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之 織物施以寬度收縮率2 0%之處理。依表3記載之條件下 進行去除糊劑之精練步驟，再依實施例2 3相同之條件下 進行染色、樹脂加工，得裏子布料。 〔比較例1 2 ] 使用經向絲爲50d/24 f之聚酯長纖維（具蕊鞘 結構之抗靜電絲）與、緯向絲使用7 5 d / 3 6 f之聚酯 長纖維圓形截面之原絲，以織製縱向絲及橫向絲密度各自 爲1 2 0絲/英吋及8 0絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度 爲1 4 5 . 5 cm之平組織的原料布。此時原料織物之緯 向絲撓曲率經測定爲0 . 8 % 。 原料織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 t X 3 0秒之條件 下1對織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率1 5 %之處理。其次 使用液流染色機於含有2 g/ i碳酸鈉與2 g/ 1斯可輪 (花王股份有限公司製）之水溶液中，以1 3 0 °C / 1 0 分之條件下進行精練。其後，使用液流染色機依表1所記 _ -62- 本纸張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（2〗〇χ 297公蓳） ----------- ^ - I -----^ ---------§- (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 445 1 3 A7 B7 五、發明說明（62) 由表9內容可了解本發明中實施例之裏子布料，爲一 種較比較例更不易引起縫孔鬆脫，且動摩擦係數較低而可 大幅增加平滑性，且觸感亦極爲柔軟之裏子布料。 以下實施例2 5〜3 1及比較例1 5〜1 7，係緯向 絲使闬聚酯系長纖維之原絲時斜紋組織（2 / 1右上揚之 斜織布）之織物實施例。 〔實施例2 5〕 - 使用經向絲爲50d/24 f之聚酯長纖維（具蕊鞘 結構之抗靜電絲）與、緯向絲使用50d /30 f之聚酯 長纖維w形截面之原絲，以織製經向絲密度爲1 5 〇絲/ 英吋、緯向絲密度爲1 0 0絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬 度爲1 4 5 . 5 c πι之斜紋組織的原料織物。此原料布中 緯向絲之W截面單絲之截面長、寬比爲3比1。此時原料 布之緯向絲撓曲率經測定爲3 . 1 % 。 原料織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 t X 3 0秒之條件 下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率1 7 %之處理。並依 表3記載之條件下使用開口皂洗型連續精練機予以精練， 其次以液流染色機依表1記載之條件進行染色後，再進行 爲去除多於染料之還原洗淨並予以乾燥。修飾之步驟係依 表2所記載之內容進行加工，得裏子布料。 〔實施例2 6〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/3 6 f之聚酯長纖維（三角截 -65- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 褒--------訂！--^ 經-部智慧財產局員工湞費合作社印？^ 445 1 3 A7 B7 五、發明說明（63) &lt;請先間讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 面絲）與 '緯向絲使用7 5 d/3 0 f之聚酯系長纖維W 形截面之原絲，以織製經向絲密度1 5 0絲/英吋、緯向 絲密度82絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲145.5 c m之斜紋組織的原料布。且緯向絲之W截面單絲之截面 長、寬比爲3比1。此時原料織物之緯向絲撓曲率經測定 爲1 . 8 % 。所得織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 t X 3 0 秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率2 0 %之處 理。並依表3記載之條件下使用開口皂洗型連續精練機予 以精練。其次以液流染色機依表1記載之條件進行染色後 ，再進行爲去除多於染料之還原洗淨並予以乾燥。修飾之 步驟係依表2所記載之內容進行加工，得裏子布料。 〔實施例2 7〕 經濟部智慧財產局員Η消費合作社印制在 使用經向絲爲7 5 d / 2 4 f之聚酯系長纖維（具蕊 鞘結構之抗靜電絲）與、緯向絲使用7 5 d / 7 2 ί之聚 酯多纖維絲，以織製經向絲密度1 2 0絲/英吋、緯向絲 密度82絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲145·5 c m之斜紋組織的原料布。此時原料織物之緯向絲撓曲率 經測定爲2 . 0 % 。 原料織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件 下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率1 5 %之處理。並依 表3記載之條件下使用開口皂洗型連續精練機予以精練’ 其次以液流染色機依表1記載之條件進行染色後，再進行 爲去除多於染料之還原洗淨並予以乾燥。修飾之步驟係依 __________ - 66 本紙張尺度適用中國國家^準（〇^)八4規格（210x297公釐) 445 13 五、發明說明（％ 表2所記載之内容進行加工，得裏子布料 〔實施例2 8〕 除將貫施例2 5之原料織物之經向絲密度改爲1 絲/英吋、熟處理時之寬度收縮率改爲2 3 %以外，5 其他 皆與實施例2 5於同·條件下進行，得裏子布料 物之緯向絲的撓曲率爲2 . 8 % 。 原料織 寶施例2 9〕 使用與貝施例2 6相问z絲織製經向絲密度1 緯向絲密度8 5絲/英吋、製織後原料 /英吋 〇絲 織物寬度 爲1 3 2 c m之斜紋組織的原料布，並在與實施例p p 、 &lt; 6相 條件下實施寬度收縮、精練、染色、整即加工等步斤，^ 錄’得 裏子布料。此時原料織物之緯向絲撓曲率經测定爲】 f靖先閱璜背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 襄--------訂---------_ :實施例3 Ο〕 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 除於實施例2 6屮對去除糊劑精練後之織物依表4旨己 載之條件下實施8 %鹼減Μ加工以外，其他皆與實施例 2 6於N •條件下進行染色整埋加工，得裏+布料。 〔寅施例3 1〕 使闬經向絲爲5 0丹尼爾3 0絲之銅胺人纖法長纖維 與、緯向絲使用7 5丹尼爾3 0絲之聚酯長纖維W形截面 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） -67- 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印利衣 ^ 44513 7 A7 B7 五、發明說明（65) 之原絲’以織製經向絲密度1 3 1絲/英吋、緯向絲密度 8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 3 2 . 0 cm之 斜紋組織的原料布。緯向絲之單絲之截面長、寬比爲3比 1。此時原料布之緯向絲撓曲率經測定爲1 . 7 % 。 所得原料織物於1 9 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製 後之織物施以寬度收縮率2 0 %之處理。依表3記載之條 件下進行去除糊劑之精練步驟，再依實施例2 3相同之條 件下進行染色、樹脂加工，得裏子布料。 〔比較例1 5〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/2 4 f之聚酯長纖維（具蕊鞘 結構之抗靜電絲）與、緯向絲使用7 5 d / 3 6 f之聚酯 長纖維圓形截面之原絲‘，以織製縱向絲及橫向絲密度各自 爲1 5 0絲/英吋及8 0絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度 爲1 4 5 . 5 c m之斜紋組織的原料布。此時原料織物之 緯向絲撓曲率經測定爲〇 . 7 % 。 原料織物使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件 下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率1 5%之處理。其次 使用液流染色機於含有2 g / 1碳酸鈉與2 g / 1斯可輪 (花王股份有限公司製）之水溶液中，以1 3 0 °C / 1 0 分之條件下進行精練。其後，使用液流染色機依表1所記 載之條件進行染色，再進行爲去除多於染料之還原洗淨並 予以乾燥。修飾之步驟係依表2所記載之內容進行加工. 而製得裏子布料。 _-68-__ 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（2]0 * 297公釐) ' I-----(ml , I ---— It ^---I----Λ* (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) A7 r 445 1 3 7 B?__ 五、發明說明（66) 〔比較例1 6〕 除將實施例2 6精練前之寬度收縮率改爲4¾以外， 其他步驟皆與實施例2相同下製得裏子布料。 〔比較例1 7〕 除將實施例2 5精練前之寬度收縮率改爲3 5%以外 ，其他步驟皆與實施例1相同下製得裏子布料。 - 實施例2 5〜3 1及比較例1 5〜1 7所得織物之拉 伸度、動摩擦係數、織物緯向絲撓曲率係數値（撓曲率+ {(經向絲纖度d ) 1 / 2 X經向絲密度丨）、縫孔鬆脫、 外觀、觸感及穿用感等評估結果皆集中記載於表1 〇中。 ! I I ----I — I I , ----- 訂---- ----_^. (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印 -69 - 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS&gt;A4規格（2J0 X 297公釐） 445 13 7 A7 發 經濟郢智.€財產局員工消費合作杜印製 ___L___ 1L_Γ· _^^_ &quot; _：_Μ :τ I · . — J ·——；I I_ 說 觸感 _ ◎ 〇 〇 ◎ 〇 ◎ ◎ △硬 △硬 製造時因經向絲產生皺折及緯向絲縫孔杻曲 而無法製造 表ifii性外觀 ◎ ◎ ◎ 〇 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎平滑 ◎平滑 穿ffl 感覺 ! ◎ 〇 〇 ◎ ◎ 〇 ◎ x但 1 '1 X ^ 穿著時 ffi力 (g/cm2) m ro cn m 寸 ΓΟ G醒一1 縫孔 鬆脫 (mm) oo d 1-H CN f 1 〇 〇 〇o o 〇 \〇 緯度方Κί 撓llfi硬度 (gf · cmVcm) 0.010 0.015 0.015 0.009 0.012 0.008 0.011 0.038 0.031 0.007 撓曲率+{(經 向絲d)1/2 X經 向絲密度} 0.005 0.004 0.004 0.011 0.005 0.004 0.006 0.002 0.001 0.006 1撓曲率 (%) 1_ c&lt;\ 〇〇 L〇 OO o 卜 in oo vo 〇 CN on 寸 〇〇 經/緯 密度 (絲/时） 178/103 180/84 '145/84 129/104 193/85 181/84 158/84 173/82 156/83 198/105 _摩擦 係數 OO CN 〇 r~- 〇J o OO O (^Ί 〇 ON CN 〇 r- CM o Ό CN 〇 «Ο 〇 OJ 〇 〇 Λ J L 1 | . L.. J-- $ϊι!· l&gt; &gt;J bi 伸度 (%) to \0 r^i \D 1 1 i H OO υη 〇 CN CN 〇〇 〇〇 CM 'O C&lt;i CM OO CM a\ Oi 〇 -70- ----I-----I -裝.i I---I I 訂-------—i I . {請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（2】0 X 297公釐） Ψ 445 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 A7 B7 五、發明說明（68) 由表1 0內容可了解本發明中實施例之裏子布料’爲 一種較比較例更不易引起縫孔鬆脫，且動摩擦係數較低而 可大幅增加平滑性，且觸感亦極爲柔軟之裏子布料。 以下實施例3 2〜4 0及比較例1 8〜2 0 ，係緯向 絲使用纖維素系長纖維平組織之織物製備例。 〔實施例3 2〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 3 0 f之銅胺人纖長纖維與、 緯向絲使用7 5 d / 4 5 f之銅胺人纖長纖維，以織製經 向絲密度爲1 3 0絲/7英吋' 緯向絲密度爲8 2絲/英吋 、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 5 c m之平組織的原料織物 0 將此原料織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用脫 水機以脫水率6 5 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅機 以1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度 收縮率7 %之處理。其次依表3記載之條件下使用開口巷 洗型連續精練機進行精練。依表1 1記載之條件進行染色 後，依表6所記載之內容進行樹脂加工，得裏子布料。 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） — 1-------II 11 I---- ^ — — — — (請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填窝本頁) 145 13 7 A7 B7 五、發明說明（69 表1 染色法 黃金浸滲染色法 染料 Sumifix Navy Blue GS l%owf 乙烯磺酸系反應染料 助劑 水酸化氫氧化鈉1 〇 g / 1 溫度 2 5。。 時間 1 5時間 f請先閱請背面之注奋？事項再填寫本頁) 〔實施例3 3〕 使用經向絲爲7 5 d/4 5 f之銅胺人纖長纖維與、 緯向絲使用1 0 0 d / 6 0 f之銅胺人纖長纖維，以織製 經向絲密度爲1 1 0絲/英吋' 緯向絲密度爲7 〇絲/英 吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 2 cm之平組織的原料布 〇 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 將此原料布織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用 脫水機以脫水率6 5 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅 機以1 9 0 t / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬 度收縮率7 %之處理。其後依實施例3 2記載之相同條件 進行精練、染色及樹脂加工，以製得裏子布料。 [實施例3 4〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/3 6 ί之聚酯系長纖維（三角 截面絲）與、緯向絲使用7 5 d / 6 Ο ί之銅胺人纖長纖 ___-72- _ k紙張尺度適用^國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐) η 經濟部智慧財產局員工湞費合作社印製 Α7 Β7 五、發明說明（70) 維，以織製經向絲密度爲1 3 1絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲 8 2絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 5 c m之平組 織的原料布。 將此原料織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用脫 水機以脫水率5 0 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅機 以2 0 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度 收縮率7 %之處理。其次依表3記載之條件下使用開口官 洗型連續精練機進行精練。再依表5記載之條件進行染色 後，依表6所記載之內容進行樹脂加工，得裏子布料 〔實施例3 5〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 2 0 f之黏膠法人纖長纖維與 、緯向絲使用7 5 d / 3 3 f之黏膠法人纖長纖維，以織 製經向絲密度爲1 2 7絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲8 2絲/ 英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 5 c m之平組織的原料 布。 將此原料布織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後*其次使用 脫水機以脫水率7 0 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅 機以1 9 0 t： / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬 度收縮率7 %之處理。其次依表3記載之條件下使用開口 皂洗型連續精練機進行精練。再依表1 1記載之條件進行 染色後，依表6所記載之內容進行樹脂加工，得裏子布料 -73- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公釐） ----------- ---II---^ *-----11 · {請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) ^ 445 1 37 A7 ____B7 五、發明說明（71) 〔實施例3 6〕 使用經向絲爲7 5 d/3 3 ί之黏膠法人纖長纖維與 、緯向絲使用1 00d/44 f之黏膠法人纖長纖維，以 織製經向絲度爲1 1 〇絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲7 0絲 /英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 45 cm之平組織的原 料布。 將所得織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用脫水 機以脫水率7 2 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅機以 1 5 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收 縮率7 %之處理。其後依實施例3 5記載之相同條件進行 精練、染色及樹脂加工，以製得裏子布料。 〔實施例3 7〕 使用經向絲、緯向絲皆爲7 5 d / 2 Ο ί之二醋酸長 纖維，以織製經向絲密度爲1 0 3絲/英吋、緯向絲密度 爲8 0絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 3 2 . 0 c m 之平組織的原料布。 將此原料布織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用 脫水機以脫水率4 0 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅 機以1 9 0 t / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬 度收縮率7 之處理。其次依表3記載之條件下使用開口 皂洗型連續精練機進行精練。再依表1 2記載之條件進行 染色後，依表2所記載之內容進行樹脂加工，得裏子布料 0 -74- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x 297公釐） {請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) ---I I ί I 訂--------- 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 ^ 445137 Α7 ________J7_______ 五、發明說明（72) 其次依表3記載之條件下使用開口巷洗型連續精練機 進行精練=再依表1 1記載之條件進行染色後’依表6所 記載之內容進行樹脂加工，得裏子布料。 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝 -------訂 -------^ 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 5 本紙張尺度適用中國®家標準規格（210 x 297公复） 445 1 3 ? A7 ____B7 五、發明說明（73 ) 表1 2 染色法 杰格染色法 染料 C. I Disperse Blue 291 l%owf 助劑 迪士巴—TL 1 g / ΐ 溫度 9 5 t 時間 1時間 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填窵本頁) ΐ實施例3 8〕 除將實施例3 2中經向絲密度改爲1 5 0絲/英吋以 外，其他皆與實施例3 2於同一條件下進行處理，得裏子 布料。 〔實施例3 9〕 除將實施例3 2中寬度收縮率改爲1 2%以外，其他 皆與實施例3 2於同一條件下進行處理以製得裏子布料。 經濟部智莛財產局員工消費合作社印製 [實施例4 ◦〕 除將實施例3 2中寬度收縮率改爲5 %以外，其他皆 與實施例3 2於同一條件下進行處理以製得裏子布料。 〔比較例1 8〕 將實施例3 2所得之原料織物置於針板拉幅機中，以 1 9 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收 -76- 本紙張瓦度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 445137 A7 B7 五、發明說明（74) 縮率7 %之處理。 其他條件皆與實施例3 2相同條件下進行加工，製得 裏子布料。 〔比較例1 9〕 除將實施例3 2中寬度收縮率改爲4 %以外，其他皆 與實施例3 2相同條件下製作。 f比較例2 0〕 除將實施例3 2中寬度收縮率改爲1 7 %以外，其他 皆與實施例3 2相同條件下製作。 實施例3 2〜4 0及比較例1 8〜2 0所得織物之拉 伸度、動摩擦係數、織物緯向絲撓曲率係數値（撓曲率+ {(經向絲纖度d ) 1 2 X經向絲密度})、縫孔鬆脫、 外觀、觸感及穿用感等評估結果皆集中記載於表1 3中。 &lt;請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝！ 訂----------¾ 經濟部智慧时產局員工消費合作杜印製 •77- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 445137 A7 五 . 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印製 說 明 罢塾N龚妾屮瀚髢譖·#11篕蘧W味殊羞顰ίΚ运#^Π領 發 觸感 -• ◎ 〇 〇 ◎ 〇 〇 〇 ◎ ◎ mv &lt;篛 △略硬 製造時因經向絲及緯向絲縫孔產生扭曲故品 質極差，無法量產。 表面性外觀 ◎ ◎ 〇 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ 〇 ◎ ◎ ◎平滑 穿用 感覺 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ 〇 ◎ 〇 X侄 45 1 X 裙擺部份向 上滑脫 穿著時 壓力 (g/cm2) cn cn cn 1-Ή m CN m cn CO CM -^ ^ 啶 €驾？ Ο 1 1 卜 o d oo d O〇 ό \〇 O 1〇 1—&lt; cn 〇 卜 i 1 〇 υη in 緯度方旳 撓[1丨丨硬度 (gf · cmVcm) 0.026 0.027 0.027 0.028 0.029 0.025 0.029 1 0.024 1 0.029 0.037 0.036 _ . 1 0.021 ' 1 擒ι!1.ι率(經 向絲d)1/2 X經 向絲密度） 0.007 0.007 0.008 0.008 0.007 OO o d 0.004 0.009 0.005 0.002 0.004 0.009 Γ- o 〇c 卜 r- l&gt;- «r^ oo to a\ Os 寸 〇〇 ψ· 4 Ό C^i t * 〇 經/緯 密度 (絲/吋） 138/83 118/71 141/84 「136/85 | [118/72 1 110/82 「161/83 | \ 153/84Π | 135/85 ] 132/86 134/85 146/84 1動摩擦 係數 m CN 〇 CN 〇 ON CM 〇 〇 〇 $ 〇 CN 〇 »-n rsi CD ΓΝ] CN 〇 r·1 ^ 〇 CN CN 〇 〇 ^ -¾ ^ -^ oo 〇 〇\ o oo OC a\ OJ CN CN| 〇〇 〇 1- f r&gt;] m cn wn m P； oo «ΓΛ 〇 OO P' N {U 驾 -78- ---1----1--* ------— —訂- ------—^ » (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 445 1 3 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印氣 A7 B7 五、發明說明（76) 由表1 3內容可了解本發明中實施例之裏子布料，較 比較例更不易引起縫孔鬆脫，且動摩擦係數較低而可大幅 改善平滑性。此些實施例所得之裏子布料具有優良之家庭 洗濯下之尺寸安定性及防皺性等優點。 以下實施例4 1〜4 7及比較例2 1〜2 3，係緯向 絲使用纖維素系長纖維之原絲時斜紋組織（2 / 1右上揚 之斜織布）之織物實施例》 f實施例4 1 〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/3 Ο ί之銅胺人纖長纖維與、 緯向絲使用7 5 d / 4 5 f之銅胺人纖長纖維，以織製經 向絲密度爲1 6 6絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲8 2絲/英吋 、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 5 c m之斜紋組織的原料織 物。 將此原料織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用脫 水機以脫水率6 5 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅機 以1 9 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度 收縮率7 %之處理。 其次依表3記載之條件下使用開口皂洗型連續精練機 進行精練。再依表1 1記載之條件進行染色後，依表6所 記載之內容進行樹脂加工，得裏子布料。 〔實施例4 2〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/3 0 f之銅胺人纖長纖維與、 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210x297公釐） ---------I 1 ' it — — — — — 敏 {請先閱讀背面之法意事項再填寫本頁) 445137 A7 ________B7_____ 五、發明說明（77 ) 緯向絲使用7 5 d/4 5 f之銅胺人纖長纖維，以織製經 向絲密度爲1 8 0絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲8 2絲/英吋 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 5 c m之斜紋組織的原料布 〇 將此原料布織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用 脫水機以脫水率5 0 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅 機以1 7 0 t / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬 度收縮率7 %之處理。其後依實施例4 1之相同條件進行 精練、染色及樹脂加工，而製得裏子布料。 〔實施例4 3〕 使用經向絲爲7 5 d / 4 5 f之銅胺人纖長纖維與、 緯向絲使用1 0 0 d / 6 Ο ί之銅胺人纖長纖維，以織製 經向絲密度爲1 3 6絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲7 0絲/英 吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 2 c m之斜紋組織的織物 α 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印 將此原料布浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用脫水 機以脫水率6 5 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅機以 2 0 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收 縮率1 0 %之處理》其後依實施例4 1之相同條件進行精 練、染色、再經樹脂加工，而製得裏子布料。 〔實施例4 4〕 使用經向絲爲50d/36 ί之聚酯系長纖維（三角 -80- 本紙張又度，適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公t ) ί 445137 Α7 Β7 五、發明說明（78) 截面絲）與、緯向絲使用1 2 0 d / 7 2 f之銅胺人纖長 纖維’以織製經向絲密度爲1 4 6絲/英吋、緯向絲密度 爲6 5絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 45 cm之平 組織的原料布。 將所得織物浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用脫水 機以脫水率5 2 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅機以 1 9 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收 縮率1 3¾之處理。其次依表3記載之條件下使用開口皂 洗型連續精練機進行精練。再依表5記載之條件進行染色 後，依表6所記載之內容進行樹脂加工，得裏子布料。 〔實施例4 5〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 ci / 3 6 ί之黏膠法人纖長纖維、 緯向絲爲7 5 d / 3 3 ί之黏膠法人纖長纖維，以織製經 向絲密度爲1 2 0絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲8 2絲/英吋 、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 5 c m之斜紋組織的原料布 。將所得原料布浸泡於2 5 °C水中5秒後，其次使用脫水 機以脫水率7 1 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅機以 1 9 0 t / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收 縮率1 3 %之處理。其後依實施例4 1之相同條件進行精 練、染色及樹脂加工，以製得裏子布料。 〔實施例4 6〕 使用經向絲爲7 5 d / 3 3 f之黏膠法人纖長纖維、 -81 - 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)M規格（210x 297公釐） (請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁&gt;% 44513T A7 B7 Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 4,1 ^ V. Description of the invention (58) To remove more than the dye, wash and dry it. The modification steps are processed according to the contents described in Table 2 to obtain lining cloth. [Example 2 2] Except that the warp yarn density of the raw material fabric of Example 20 was changed to 90 threads / inch, the dyeing process was performed under the same conditions as in Example 20 (but the weight reduction process was omitted). , Have lizi cloth. Moreover, the deflection ratio of the weft of the raw material fabric was 1.7%. [Example 2 3] The origin of the W-shaped cross-section of the polyester-based long fiber with a warp yarn of 50 d / 3 6 f of copper amine human fiber method and a polyester yarn of 7 5 d / 3 0 f with a weft yarn Silk, weaving raw fabrics with a flat weave of warp yarn density of 131 silks / inch, weft yarn density of 82 yarns / inch, and weaving of the raw fabric with a width of 132.0 cm. The cross-section length and width ratio of the W-section monofilament of the weft yarn were 3 to 1. At this time, the weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 2.0%. The obtained fabric was subjected to a width shrinkage ratio of 20% after weaving the fabric at a temperature of 190 ° C X 30 seconds using a pin tenter. Thereafter, a scouring step for removing the paste was performed under the conditions described in Table 3, and then the polyester fibers were subjected to dyeing and reduction washing under the conditions described in Table 12. The copperamine human fiber was dyed under the conditions described in Table 11 and then resin-processed according to the conditions described in Table 6 to obtain a lining cloth. -61-This paper size is in accordance with China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210x 297 mm) (Please read the precautions on the back before filling this page). ------------ Order ---------- Α 445 445137 Employees of Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs made cooperation and printing of A7 _____ Β7 V. Description of Invention (59) 〔Example 2 4〕 Using copper amine human fiber long filaments with warp yarns of 50 denier and 30 silk and 、 Weft yarn uses polyester long fiber of 75 denier and 30 yarns with w-shaped cross-section raw yarn to make warp yarn density of 1 4 5 yarns / inch, weft yarn density of 82 yarns / inch, after weaving Raw fabric with a flat weave of 132.Ocm. The cross-section length and width ratio of the W-section monofilament of the weft yarn are 3 to 1. At this time, the weft deflection of the raw cloth was determined to be 2.2%. The obtained raw fabric was treated with a width shrinkage ratio of 20% at a temperature of 190 ° C / 30 seconds. A scouring step for removing the paste was performed under the conditions described in Table 3, and dyeing and resin processing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 23 to obtain a lining cloth. [Comparative Example 1 2] Polyester long fiber with warp yarns of 50d / 24 f (antistatic yarn with core sheath structure) and round polyester yarn with 7 5 d / 3 6 f yarns were used for weft yarns The cross section of the raw silk is made of a flat weave with a flat weave of longitudinal and transverse yarn densities of 120 threads / inch and 80 threads / inch, respectively, and a raw fabric width of 144.5 cm after weaving. At this time, the weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 0.8%. The raw material fabric was treated with a pin tenter at a rate of 190 t X 300 seconds, and a width shrinkage of 15% was applied to the woven fabric. Next, use a flow dyeing machine to perform scouring in an aqueous solution containing 2 g / i sodium carbonate and 2 g / 1 Skoll (manufactured by Kao Corporation) at 130 ° C / 10 minutes. Thereafter, using a liquid flow dyeing machine in accordance with Table 1 _ -62- This paper size is applicable to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (2 〖〇χ297297 蓳) ----------- ^-I ----- ^ --------- §- (Please read the notes on the back before filling out this page) 445 1 3 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (62) Available from Table 9 It is understood that the lining fabric of the embodiment of the present invention is a lining fabric which is less prone to cause loosening of the seams than the comparative example, and has a lower coefficient of dynamic friction, which can greatly increase smoothness, and has a very soft touch. The following Examples 2 5 to 3 1 and Comparative Examples 1 5 to 17 are examples of woven fabrics of a twill weave (a twill weaving up to the right of 2/1) when weft yarns are used to make polyester filaments. [Example 2 5]-Using polyester long fiber with warp yarn 50d / 24 f (antistatic yarn with core sheath structure) and weft yarn using 50d / 30 f polyester long fiber with w-shaped cross section Raw yarn, which is made of twill weave with a warp yarn density of 150 threads / inch, a weft yarn density of 100 threads / inch, and a weaving raw fabric with a width of 145.5 c πι Fabric. The cross-section length and width ratio of the W-section monofilament of the weft yarn in this raw fabric were 3 to 1. At this time, the deflection of the weft of the raw cloth was determined to be 3.1%. The raw fabric was treated with a needle tenter under a condition of 190 t X 30 seconds, and a width shrinkage of 17% was applied to the woven fabric. It was refined using an open soaping type continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3, followed by dyeing with a liquid flow dyeing machine under the conditions described in Table 1, and then carrying out reduction washing to remove more than dye and drying. The modification steps are processed according to the contents described in Table 2 to obtain lining cloth. [Example 2 6] Use of polyester long fibers with warp yarns of 50 d / 3 6 f (triangular cut-65-) This paper size is applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) (please (Please read the notes on the back before filling this page) 褒 -------- Order!-^ Warrant-Ministry Intellectual Property Bureau Staff Expense Cooperatives? ^ 445 1 3 A7 B7 V. Description of Invention (63) &lt; Please read the precautions on the back before filling in this page) Face yarn) and 'Weft yarn use 7 5 d / 3 0 f polyester long fiber W-shaped cross-section raw yarn to weave warp yarn Raw material cloth with a density of 150 silks / inch, weft yarn density of 82 silks / inch, and a twill weave with a raw fabric width of 145.5 cm after weaving. The cross-section length and width ratio of the W-section monofilament of the weft yarn are 3 to 1. At this time, the weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 1.8%. The obtained fabric was subjected to a width shrinkage rate of 20% on the woven fabric under a condition of 190 t X 30 seconds using a pin tenter. The open soaping type continuous scouring machine was used for scouring under the conditions described in Table 3. Next, the liquid flow dyeing machine is used to perform the dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 1, and then the reduction washing to remove more than the dye is carried out and the drying is performed. The modification steps are processed according to the contents described in Table 2 to obtain lining cloth. [Example 2 7] Printed using polyester long fiber (antistatic wire with core sheath structure) and warp weft using 7 5 d / 2 4 f warp yarn as a member of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs and Consumer Cooperatives. Using 7 5 d / 7 2 liter polyester multi-fiber yarns, weaving warp yarn density is 120 yarns / inch, weft yarn density is 82 yarns / inch, and the width of the raw fabric after weaving is 145.5 cm Raw twill weave. At this time, the weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 2.0%. The raw fabric was treated with a needle tenter at a temperature of 190 ° C X 30 seconds to give a 15% width shrinkage to the woven fabric. It was refined using an open soaping type continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3 '. Next, the liquid flow dyeing machine was used to perform dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 1, and then reduced washing was performed to remove more than the dye and dried. The modification steps are in accordance with __________-66 This paper size is applicable to Chinese national standards (0 ^) 8 4 specifications (210x297 mm) 445 13 V. Description of the invention (% of the content described in Table 2 is processed to obtain lining cloth [Example 2 8] Except that the warp yarn density of the raw material fabric of Example 2 5 was changed to 1 yarn / inch, and the width shrinkage rate at the time of curing was changed to 2 3%, 5 others were the same as in Example 2 5 Under the same conditions, the deflection ratio of the weft yarns of the lining fabric was 2.8%. Raw material weaving treasure Example 2 9] Weaving warp yarns using z silk in accordance with Example 2 6 Density 1 Weft yarn density 8 5 silks / inch, raw material after weaving. Silk fabric with a twill weave width of 1 3 2 cm, and the width is implemented under the conditions of Example pp, &lt; 6 phases Shrinkage, scouring, dyeing, processing, etc. are recorded. ^ Record the rizi cloth. At this time, the woven wire deflection of the raw fabric is determined as [] fjing first read the precautions on the back and then fill in this page) -------- Order ---------_: Example 3 〇] Printed in Example 2 6 After removal of the paste on the fabric by scouring embodiment under hexyl purpose of carrying 48% of an alkali Table Save Μ processing, other embodiments are carried out in Example 26 under conditions of dyeing the whole buried N • processing to yield fabrics in +. [Iin Example 3 1] W-shaped cross-sections of polyester long fibers of 7 denier 30 filaments were used for the copper amine human fiber long filaments with the warp warp yarns of 50 denier and 30 filaments and the weft yarns. Applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 specifications (210 X 297 mm) -67- Intellectual Clothing, Consumer Cooperatives, Intellectual Property Bureau, Ministry of Economic Affairs ^ 44513 7 A7 B7 V. The original silk of invention description (65) is made of warp Raw fabric with a twill weave of 13 1 silk / inch, weft density of 8 2 silk / inch, and a raw fabric with a width of 132.0 cm after weaving. The cross-section length and width ratio of the monofilament of the weft yarn are 3 to 1. At this time, the deflection of the woven fabric in the weft direction was determined to be 1.7%. The obtained raw fabric was treated with a width shrinkage rate of 20% at a temperature of 190 ° C / 30 seconds. The scouring step for removing the paste was performed under the conditions described in Table 3, and then dyeing and resin processing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 23 to obtain a lining cloth. [Comparative Example 1 5] Polyester long fibers with warp yarns of 50 d / 2 4 f (antistatic yarns with a core sheath structure) and polyester yarns with 7 5 d / 3 6 f warp yarns were used. Raw yarn with a circular cross section of the fiber, with a weaving twill weave of longitudinal and transverse filament densities of 150 filaments / inch and 80 filaments / inch, and a raw fabric width of 144.5 cm after weaving Raw cloth. At this time, the weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 0.7%. The raw fabric is subjected to a width shrinkage of 15% after weaving at a temperature of 190 ° C X 30 seconds using a pin tenter. Next, use a flow dyeing machine to perform scouring at a temperature of 130 ° C / 10 minutes in an aqueous solution containing 2 g / 1 sodium carbonate and 2 g / 1 Skoll (manufactured by Kao Corporation). Thereafter, dyeing was performed using a flow dyeing machine in accordance with the conditions described in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove more than the dye, and drying. The modification step is processed according to the content described in Table 2. The lining fabric is obtained. _-68 -__ This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (2) 0 * 297 mm) 'I ----- (ml, I ---— It ^ --- I --- -Λ * (Please read the precautions on the back before filling in this page) A7 r 445 1 3 7 B? __ V. Description of the invention (66) [Comparative example 1 6] Except the width shrinkage of Example 2 6 before refining Except that it was changed to 4¾, other steps were made in the same manner as in Example 2. [Comparative Example 17] Except that the width shrinkage ratio before the refining in Example 25 was changed to 3 5%, all other steps were implemented. The lining fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1.-The elongation, the coefficient of dynamic friction, and the weft deflection coefficient of the fabric 値 (deflection + {( The warp yarn fineness d) 1/2 X warp yarn density 丨), the loosening of the slits, the appearance, the feel and the feeling of wearing are all summarized in Table 10.! II ---- I — II, ----- Order ---- ----_ ^. (Please read the precautions on the back before filling out this page)-Intellectual Property Bureau, Ministry of Economic Affairs, Consumer Consumption Cooperatives Seal -69-This paper size applies to China Standard (CNS &gt; A4 specification (2J0 X 297 (%) 445 13 7 A7 Develop the economy and wisdom. € The property bureau employee consumption cooperation print ___L___ 1L_Γ · _ ^^ _ &quot; _: _M: τ I ·. — J · ——; I I_ says touch_ ◎ 〇〇 ◎ 〇 ◎ ◎ △ Hard △ During manufacturing, warp yarns are wrinkled and weft yarn seams are bent, making it impossible to produce a slick appearance. ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ smooth ◎ smooth wearing ffl feel! ◎ 〇〇 ◎ ◎ 〇 ◎ x but 1 '1 X ^ force when wearing (g / cm2) m ro cn m inch Γ〇 G wake up 1 slit loose (mm) oo d 1-H CN f 1 〇〇 〇oo 〇 \ 〇 Latitude square Κflex llfi hardness (gf · cmVcm) 0.010 0.015 0.015 0.009 0.012 0.008 0.011 0.038 0.031 0.007 Deflection + ((Warp d) 1/2 X Warp density) 0.005 0.004 0.004 0.011 0.005 0.004 0.006 0.002 0.001 0.006 1 Deflection (%) 1_ c &lt; \ 〇〇L〇OO o Bu in oo vo 〇CN on inch 〇 Warp / weft density (filament / hour) 178/103 180/84 '145/84 129/104 193/85 181/84 158/84 173/82 156/83 198/105 _ friction coefficient OO CN 〇r ~-〇J o OO O (^ Ί 〇ON CN 〇r- CM o Ό CN 〇 « Ο 〇OJ 〇〇Λ JL 1 |. L .. J-- $ ϊι! · L &gt; &gt; J bi elongation (%) to \ 0 r ^ i \ D 1 1 i H OO υη 〇CN CN 〇〇〇〇CM 'O C &lt; i CM OO CM a \ Oi 〇-70- ---- I ----- I-装 .i I --- II Order --------- i I. {Please first Read the notes on the reverse side and fill out this page) This paper size applies Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specifications (2) 0 X 297 mm) Ψ 445 Printed by the Consumers ’Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs A7 B7 V. Invention Description ( 68) From the contents of Table 10, it can be understood that the inner cloth of the embodiment of the present invention is a type that is less likely to cause loosening of the holes than the comparative example, and has a lower coefficient of dynamic friction, which can greatly increase smoothness, and is extremely soft to the touch. Liner cloth. In the following Examples 3 2 to 40 and Comparative Examples 18 to 20, examples of fabrics in which the weft-oriented yarns use a cellulose-based long-fiber flat structure. [Example 3 2] Copper amine human long fibers with warp yarns of 50 d / 3 0 f and copper amine human long fibers with 7 5 d / 4 5 f of warp yarns were used to weave warp yarns Density of 1 3 0 silks / 7 inches' Flat weave raw fabrics with a weft density of 8 2 silks / inches and a weaving raw fabric width of 1 4 5 cm 0 Soak the raw fabric at 2 5 ° C After 5 seconds in the water, use a dewatering machine to perform dewatering at 65% dehydration rate, and then use a continuous pin tenter to apply width to the woven fabric at 19 ° CX 30 seconds. Treatment with 7% shrinkage. Next, use the open-lane washing type continuous scouring machine to perform scouring under the conditions described in Table 3. After dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 11, resin processing was performed according to the contents described in Table 6 to obtain a lining cloth. This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) — 1 ------- II 11 I ---- ^ — — — — (Please read the notes on the back before filling (This page) 145 13 7 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (69 Table 1 Dyeing method Gold infiltration dyeing method Sumifix Navy Blue GS 1% owf Ethylene sulfonic acid reaction dye auxiliary water acidified sodium hydroxide 1 〇g / 1 Temperature 2 5. Time 1 5 time f Please read the note on the back? Please fill in this page) [Example 3 3] Using copper amine human long fiber with warp yarn 7 5 d / 4 5 f and 、 Weft yarn uses copper amine human long fiber of 100 d / 60 f to weave warp yarn density of 110 yarn / inch 'Weft yarn density of 70 silk / inch, after weaving The width of the raw material fabric is 1 4 2 cm. The raw material fabric is printed by the consumer cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs. This raw material fabric is immersed in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, followed by a dewatering machine with a dewatering rate of 6 5 Dewatering at %%, and then using a continuous pin tenter to apply a width shrinkage of 7% to the woven fabric at 190 t / 30 seconds Its processing. Thereafter, scouring, dyeing, and resin processing were performed under the same conditions as described in Example 32 to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 3 4] Use polyester filaments (triangular cross-section yarns) with warp yarns of 50 d / 3 6 liters, and use 7 5 d / 6 Ο copper amide human filaments with weft yarns ___ -72- _ k Paper size applies ^ National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) η Printed by the Intellectual Property Office of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Α7 Β7 V. Description of the invention (70) Warp yarn density is 131 yarns / inch, weft yarn density is 82 yarns / inch, and the width of the raw fabric after weaving is 14 5 cm. After soaking the raw fabric in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, dewatering was performed at a dewatering rate of 50% using a dewatering machine, and then at a condition of 200 ° C / 30 seconds by a continuous pin tenter. Next, the woven fabric was treated with a width shrinkage of 7%. Next, use an open mouth washing-type continuous scouring machine to perform scouring under the conditions described in Table 3. After dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 5, resin processing was performed according to the contents described in Table 6, and a lining fabric was obtained. [Example 3 5] A viscose corporative long fiber with warp yarns of 50 d / 2 0 f was used. And the weft yarn uses 7 5 d / 3 3 f viscose corporative long fibers to weave warp yarn density of 1 2 7 yarns / inch, weft yarn density of 8 2 yarns / inch, after weaving Raw fabric with a flat weave of 1 4 5 cm. After soaking the raw fabric in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds * followed by dewatering with a dewatering machine at a dewatering rate of 70%, and then through a continuous pin-plate tentering machine at 190 t: / 30 seconds Under the conditions, the woven fabric is treated with a width shrinkage of 7%. Next, scouring was performed using an open soaping type continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3. After dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 11, the resin is processed according to the contents described in Table 6, and the cloth is made of lizi -73- This paper size applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210x297 mm) --- -------- --- II --- ^ * ----- 11 · {Please read the notes on the back before filling out this page) ^ 445 1 37 A7 ____B7 V. Description of the invention (71) [Example 3 6] The viscose corporative long fibers with warp yarns of 7 5 d / 3 3 liter were used, and the weft woven yarns with viscose corporative long fibers of 100d / 44 f were used. Raw material cloth with a flat weave of 110 yarns / inch, a weft yarn density of 70 yarns / inch, and a raw fabric width of 1 45 cm after weaving. The fabric was immersed in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, then dewatered using a dehydrator at a dehydration rate of 72%, and then passed through a continuous pin tenter at 150 ° C / 30 seconds. , After weaving the fabric, apply a width shrinkage of 7%. Thereafter, scouring, dyeing, and resin processing were performed under the same conditions as described in Example 35 to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 3 7] The warp and weft yarns were both 7 5 d / 2 Ο acetic acid long fibers, and the warp yarn density was 103 yarns / inch, and the weft yarn density was 80 silk / inch, raw fabric with a flat weave of 132.0 cm after weaving. After soaking the raw fabric in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, the dewatering machine was then used to dewater at a dewatering rate of 40%, and then subjected to a continuous pin tenter at a condition of 190 t / 30 seconds. Next, the woven fabric is treated with a width shrinkage ratio of 7. Next, scouring was performed using an open soaping type continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3. After dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 12, the resin is processed in accordance with the contents described in Table 2. The lining fabric is 0 -74- This paper size applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210x 297 mm) { (Please read the notes on the back before filling this page) --- II Order I --------- Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economy ^ 445137 Α7 ________J7_______ V. Description of Invention (72) Next Refining using an open-lane washing type continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3 = and then dyeing under the conditions described in Table 11 'resin processing according to the contents described in Table 6 to obtain lining cloth. (Please read the precautions on the back before filling out this page) Packing ---------------------- ^ Printed by the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Employee Cooperatives 5 This paper size applies to China® home standard specifications (210 x 297 public compound) 445 1 3? A7 ____B7 V. Description of the invention (73) Table 1 2 Dyeing method Jieger dye D. C. I Disperse Blue 291 l% owf Auxiliary disco-TL 1 g / ΐ Temperature 9 5 t Time 1 time (please read the precautions on the back before filling this page) ΐExample 3 8] Except changing the warp yarn density in Example 3 2 to 150 wires / inch, others Both were treated under the same conditions as in Example 32 to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 3 9] Except that the width shrinkage ratio in Example 32 was changed to 12%, the rest were treated under the same conditions as in Example 32 to obtain a lining cloth. Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs [Example 4 ◦] Except that the width shrinkage rate in Example 32 was changed to 5%, the rest were processed under the same conditions as in Example 32 to make Child cloth. [Comparative Example 18] The raw fabric obtained in Example 32 was placed in a pin tenter and the width of the knitted fabric was -76 at a temperature of 190 ° C / 30 seconds. -The paper wattage is in accordance with Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) 445137 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (74) 7% reduction. All other conditions were processed under the same conditions as those in Example 32 to obtain a lining cloth. [Comparative Example 19] Except that the width shrinkage ratio in Example 32 was changed to 4%, it was produced under the same conditions as in Example 32. f Comparative Example 2 0] Except that the width shrinkage ratio in Example 32 was changed to 17%, it was produced under the same conditions as in Example 32. Example 3 2 ~ 4 0 and Comparative Example 1 8 ~ 2 0 The elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, and weft deflection coefficient of the fabric 値 (deflection + {(warp yarn fineness d) 1 2 X warp direction The evaluation results of silk density}), loosening of the pores, appearance, touch, and feeling of wearing are all summarized in Tables 13 and 3. &lt; Please read the notes on the back before filling this page) Install! Order ---------- ¾ Printed by the Consumer Affairs Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs of the Ministry of Economic Affairs of the People's Republic of China • 77- This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) 445137 A7 V. Printed description of consumer cooperation between employees of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs N Gong 妾 屮 汉 髢 谮 # 11 篕 蘧 W 味 殊 羞 颦 ίΚ 运 # ^ 领 发 感 感-• ◎ 〇〇 ◎ 〇〇〇 ◎ ◎ mv &lt; 篛 △ is slightly hard during manufacture, because warp and weft threads have twists, so the quality is extremely poor, and mass production is not possible. Surface appearance ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ○ ◎ ◎ ◎ smooth wearing feeling ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ○ X nephew 45 1 X pressure on the skirt part slides upwards (g / cm2) cn cn cn 1-Ή m CN m cn CO CM-^ ^ 〇 1 1 od oo d O〇ό \ 〇O 1〇1— &lt; cn 〇 卜 i 1 〇υη in latitude square torsion [1 丨 丨 hardness (gf · cmVcm) 0.026 0.027 0.027 0.028 0.029 0.025 0.029 1 0.024 1 0.029 0.037 0.036 _. 1 0.021 '1 capture rate (warp yarn d) 1/2 X warp yarn density) 0.007 0.007 0.008 0.008 0.007 OO od 0.004 0.009 0.005 0.002 0.004 0.009 Γ- o 〇c Bu r- l &gt;-«r ^ oo to a \ Os inch 〇〇ψ · 4 Ό C ^ it * 〇 Warp / Weft Density (silk / inch) 138/83 118/71 141/84" 136/85 | [ 118/72 1 110/82 "161/83 | \ 153 / 84Π | 135/85] 132/86 134/85 146/84 1 coefficient of dynamic friction m CN 〇CN 〇ON CM 〇〇〇 $ 〇CN 〇» -n rsi CD ΓΝ] CN 〇r · 1 ^ 〇CN CN 〇〇 ^ -¾ ^-^ oo 〇〇 \ o oo OC a \ OJ CN CN | 〇〇〇1- f r &gt;] m cn wn m P; oo «ΓΛ 〇OO P 'N {U --78- --- 1 ---- 1-* -------- —order- ---------- ^» (Please read the first Note: Please fill in this page again) This paper size is applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) 445 1 3 Intellectual Property of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Employee Consumption Cooperative Gas Seal A7 B7 V. Description of the Invention (76) Table 1 3 shows that the inner fabric of the embodiment of the present invention is less likely to cause loosening of the seams than the comparative example, and has a lower coefficient of dynamic friction, which can significantly increase Improve the smoothness. The lining fabrics obtained in these examples have excellent dimensional stability and anti-wrinkle properties under home washing. The following examples 4 1 to 4 7 and comparative examples 2 1 to 2 3 are weft-oriented Example of a fabric with a twill weave (2/1 right-handed twill) when using raw filaments of cellulose-based filaments. Example f 1 4) Copper amine using warp yarns of 5 0 d / 3 Ο ί Human long fibers and weft yarns use copper amine human long fibers of 7 5 d / 4 5 f to weave warp yarns with a density of 1 6 6 yarns / inch and weft yarns with a density of 8 2 yarns / inch 2. The raw material fabric with a twill weave with a width of 1 4 5 cm after weaving. After immersing this raw fabric in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, dewatering was performed at a dehydration rate of 65% using a dehydrator, and then a continuous pin tenter was used at a temperature of 190 ° C / 30 seconds. Next, the woven fabric was treated with a width shrinkage of 7%. Next, scouring was performed using an open soaping type continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3. After dyeing in accordance with the conditions described in Table 11, the resin was processed in accordance with the conditions described in Table 6 to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 4 2] Using copper amine human long fibers with warp yarns of 50 d / 3 0 f and the paper size applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210x297 mm) ------- --I 1 'it — — — — — Min {Please read the legal notices on the back before filling this page) 445137 A7 ________B7_____ V. Description of the invention (77) The weft yarn uses 7 5 d / 4 5 f copper amine Human long fiber, weaving warp yarn density is 180 yarns / inch, weft yarn density is 8 2 yarns / inch (please read the precautions on the back before filling this page), the width of the raw fabric after weaving Raw fabric with a twill weave of 145 cm. After immersing this raw fabric in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, it is then dewatered with a dewatering machine at a dewatering rate of 50%, and then stretched by a continuous pin plate. The machine applies a treatment of 7% width shrinkage on the woven fabric under the condition of 170 t / 30 seconds. Thereafter, scouring, dyeing, and resin processing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 41 to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 4 3] A copper amine human long fiber with a warp yarn of 7 5 d / 4 5 f and a weft yarn with a copper amine human long fiber of 100 d / 6 〇 were used to weave the warp A twill weave with a silk density of 1 36 silks / inch, a weft yarn density of 70 silks / inch, and a raw fabric width of 14 2 cm after weaving The raw material cloth is immersed in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, followed by dehydration at a dehydration rate of 65%, and then by a continuous pin tenter at 200 ° C / 30 seconds. The woven fabric was treated with a width shrinkage ratio of 10%. "Then, the same conditions as in Example 41 were used for scouring, dyeing, and resin processing to obtain lining fabrics. [Example 4 4] Polyester-based long fibers with warp yarns of 50d / 36 liters (triangle-80- this paper is re-used, and applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 specifications (210 X 297 g t)) 445137 Α7 Β7 V. Description of the invention (78) Cross-section yarn) and weft yarns use 1 2 0 d / 7 2 f copper amine human filaments to weave warp yarns with a density of 1 4 6 yarns / inch, weft Raw fabric with a flat weave of silk density of 65 silks / inch and a raw fabric width of 1 45 cm after weaving. The fabric was immersed in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, and then dewatered using a dehydrator at a dehydration rate of 52%, and then passed through a continuous pin tenter at 19 ° C / 30 seconds. , Apply a treatment of width shrinkage of 1 3¾ to the woven fabric. Next, scouring was performed using an open soaping type continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3. After dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 5, resin processing was performed according to the contents described in Table 6 to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 4 5] A viscose corporative long fiber with a warp yarn of 50 ci / 3 6 liters and a viscose corporative long fiber with a weft yarn of 7 5 d / 3 3 liters were used to weave warp yarn density It is a raw material cloth with a twill weave of 120 threads / inch, a weft yarn density of 82 threads / inch, and a raw fabric width of 14.5 cm after weaving. The raw material cloth was immersed in water at 25 ° C for 5 seconds, and then dewatered with a dehydration machine at a dehydration rate of 71%, and then passed through a continuous pin-plate tenter at 190 t / 30 seconds , After weaving the fabric, apply a width shrinkage of 13%. Thereafter, scouring, dyeing, and resin processing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 41 to obtain a lining cloth. [Example 4 6] Using viscose corporative long fibers with warp yarns of 7 5 d / 3 3 f, -81-This paper is sized to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) M specification (210x 297 mm) (Please read first Note on the back then fill out this page &gt;

I I--- I I 訂-------I 經濟部智«財產局員工消費合作社印製 4 4513 ί Α7 I-----Β7 _ 五、發明說明（79) (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 緯向絲爲1 0 Q d/4 4 f之黏膠法人纖長纖維，以織製 經向絲密度爲1 3 6絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲7 1絲/英 时、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 4 5 cm之斜紋組織的原料 布。將所得原料布浸泡於2 5 t水中5秒後，其次使用脫 水機以脫水率6 5 %下進行脫水，再經連續性針板拉幅機 以1 4 0 SC / 1 2 〇秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬 度收縮率7°/。之處理。經寬度收縮之織物依實施例4 5之 相同條件進行精練、染色、樹脂加工等，而製得裏子布料 0 〔實施例4 7〕 除將實施例4 1中寬度收縮率改爲1 2 %以外，其他 皆與實施例4 1於同一條件下進行處理以製得裏子布料。 〔比較例2 1〕 將實施例4 1所得之原料織物置於針板拉幅機中，以 1 9 0 °C / 3 0秒之條件下，對織製後之織物施以寬度收 縮率7 %之處理。 經;&quot;部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 其他條件皆與實施例4 1相同條件下進行加工處理， 製得裏子布料。 〔比較例2 2〕 除將實施例4 1中寬度收縮率改爲4 %以外，其他皆 與實施例4 1相同條件下製得裏子布料。 -82- 本紙張尺度適用中囤國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） A7 ? ' 445 1 ? ---Έ._____ 五、發明說明（80) 〔比較例2 3〕 除將實施例4 1中寬度收縮率改爲1 7 %以外’其他 皆與實施例4 1相同條件下製得裏子布料。 實施例4 1〜4 7及比較例2 1〜2 3所得織物之拉 伸度、動摩擦係數、織物緯向絲撓曲率係數値（撓曲率+ ί (經向絲纖度d ) 1 / 2 X經向絲密度})、縫孔鬆脫、 外觀、觸感及穿用感等評估結果皆集中記載於表1 。 由表1 4內容可了解本發明中實施例之裏子布_， 一種較比較例更不易引起縫孔鬆脫，且動摩擦係數_交ρ 滑性亦極佳之裏子布料。 ---------I I · -------- 訂· I I I I I I . &lt;請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 經濟部智慧时產局員工消費合作杜印製 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公芨） -83- 4 4513 7 A7 B7 說明 龚与K-.S?望蕊#11翠翳¾味邻羞籍彐骂達运踅二媒 發 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 觸感 · » ______^ ◎ Ο ◎ 〇 ◎ 〇 ◎ △略硬 △略硬 製造時因經向絲皺折及緯向絲縫孔鹿生扭曲 故品質不佳。 表面性外觀 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ 〇 ◎ ◎ ◎平滑 ◎平滑 穿用 I感覺 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ 〇 ◎ ◎ X运 45 1 X 裙擺部份向 上滑脫 1穿著時 壓力 (g/cm2) m C^l m cn t Ή 〇-« &lt;N CN m g 犖 J_| 縫孔 鬆脫 (mm) oo Ο T - ο d 〇 oo 〇 〇 1緯度方向 撓曲硬度 (gf cm2/cm) 0.026 0.028 0.024 0.023 0.023 0.027 t 0.024 0.042 0.039 0.020 撓曲率+ {(經 向絲d)&quot;2 X經 :向絲密度} 0.005 0.003 0.006 0.008 0.011 0.005 0.006 0.002 0.002 0.007 f a =3 ^ i w CN OO 寸 \r-~- ΚΓ\ I—H 1 f— o MD oo 〇 迕$ = 178/85 193/84 151/72 165/66 137/85 146/72 184/84 169/82 172/83 185/84 励摩擦 4系數 1_ CO rsi CN1 〇 L〇 CA ο CM 〇 CO rsi ΟΪ o CS 〇 OO CN Ο OJ 〇 1 &lt; CO 〇 仲度 {%&gt; κη 〇〇 1/Ί C^. r~~ IT) -c&gt; 寸 i H P H o Os Ο CN 寸 C? 1 ιιΜ r-( 寸 Oi ^r CO 寸 寸 寸 寸 M2 r^ 寸 f—f cs CN CN CN -¾驾霉 ：H趦冕 -84- 1 I---I--I I I * I —--Ϊ I J 訂·1 I l I I I I I ^ . (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 445 1 3 7 Λ7 B7 經&quot;部智慧財彥局員工消費合作社印製 五、發明說明（82) 以下實施例4 8〜5 3 ’係緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維 之假撚加工絲，及聚酯系長纖維之原絲及纖維素系長纖維 時之緞紋組織之織物實施例。緞紋組織中之織物皆爲經向 3梭緯向5梭之锻紋織物ε 〔實施例4 8〕 使用經向絲爲5 0 d / 2 4 f之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇 酯、緯向絲使片I 7 5 d / 3 6 ί之聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇醋 之單加熱器假撚加工絲（假撚數3 3 〇 〇 τ /Μ，假撚加 熱器溫度2 2 0 °C )，以織製經向絲密度2 5 0絲/'英吋 、緯向絲密度8 5絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲 1 2 3 . 〇 c m之緞紋組織的原料布。 所得之原料布使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 °C X 3 0秒之 條件下，對原料織物進行7 %寬度收縮之步驟。其次依表 3記載之條件使用開口皂洗型連續精練機進行精練。 其後使用液流染色機依表1記載之條件進行染色，再 進行將多餘染料去除之還原洗淨步驟並予以乾燥u整理加 工則依表2記載之條件進行加工，以製得裏子布料。 苡施例4 9 : 除將實施例4 8中寬度收縮率改爲1 3 %以外，其他 皆依Π施例4 8相同條件下進行加工製得裏子布料。 〔實施例5 0〕 -1-------I--- ----—---.WN* --------^ (請先閲讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（21ϋ X 297公釐） -85- B7 B7 經濱部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 五、發明說明（83) 使用經向絲爲5 0 d/2 4 f之聚酯系長纖維（具蕊 梢結構之抗靜電絲）與、緯向絲使用5 〇 d / 3 〇 f之聚 酯長纖維絲之W截面原絲，以織製經向絲密度2 1 〇絲/ 英吋、緯向絲密度1 0 0絲/英吋、製織後原料織物寬度 爲1 4 5 c m之織物。此時緯向絲之w截面絲之截而長、 寬比爲3比1。父，原料織物之緯向絲撓曲率經测定爲 3.6% ° 原料布使用針板拉幅機以1 9 0 SC X 3 0秒之條件下 ，對織製後之織物施以寬度收縮率1 5 %之處理。並依表 3記載之條件下使用開U皂洗观連續精練機予以精練，其 次以液流染色機依表1記載之條件進行染色後，再進行爲 去除多於染料之還原洗淨並予以乾燥。修飾之步驟係依表 2所記載之内容進行加工，得緞紋織物裏子布料， 實施例5 1〕 除將實施例5 0之寬度收縮率改爲2 0 %以外，其他 皆與實施例5 0於同一條件下進行，得裏子布料。I I --- II Order ------- I Printed by the Ministry of Economic Affairs «Printed by the Consumers' Cooperatives of Property Bureau 4 4513 ί Α7 I ----- Β7 _ V. Description of the Invention (79) (Please read the back first Please pay attention to this page and fill in this page again.) The weft yarn is a 10 Q d / 4 4 f viscose corporative long fiber with a warp yarn density of 1 3 6 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 7 1 Silk / British, weaving raw fabric with a twill weave width of 145 cm. After soaking the obtained raw material cloth in 25 t of water for 5 seconds, dehydration was performed at a dehydration rate of 65% using a dewatering machine, and then under a condition of 140 SC / 120 seconds by a continuous pin tenter. , Apply a width shrinkage of 7 ° / to the woven fabric. Its processing. The width-shrinked fabric was scoured, dyed, and resin-processed according to the same conditions as in Example 4 and 5 to obtain lining fabrics. [Example 4 7] Except that the width shrinkage rate in Example 41 was changed to 12% Except for this, the treatment was performed under the same conditions as in Example 41 to obtain a lining cloth. [Comparative Example 2 1] The raw fabric obtained in Example 41 was placed in a pin tenter, and the width of the knitted fabric was reduced by 7 at a temperature of 190 ° C / 30 seconds. % Of processing. Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Ministry of Intellectual Property Bureau and other conditions were processed under the same conditions as in Example 41 to obtain lining fabrics. [Comparative Example 2 2] Except that the width shrinkage ratio in Example 41 was changed to 4%, lining fabrics were prepared under the same conditions as in Example 41. -82- Applicable to the national standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) of this paper standard. A7? '445 1? --- Έ ._____ 5. Description of the invention (80) [Comparative Example 2 3] In Example 41, the width shrinkage ratio was changed to other than 17.7%, and the other conditions were the same as those in Example 41 to obtain a lining cloth. Example 4 1 to 4 7 and Comparative Example 2 1 to 2 3 The elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, and weft yarn deflection coefficient of the fabric 値 (deflection + ί (warp yarn fineness d) 1/2 X warp The results of the evaluation of the yarn density}), the loosening of the pores, the appearance, the touch, and the feeling of wearing are all summarized in Table 1. According to Table 14, the lining cloth of the embodiment of the present invention can be understood, which is a lining cloth which is less likely to cause loosening of the holes than the comparative example, and has a dynamic friction coefficient _ cross-slip which is also excellent. --------- II · -------- Order IIIIII. &Lt; Please read the precautions on the back before filling out this page) Printed copies of employee cooperation of the Ministry of Economic Affairs and Smart Production Bureau Paper size applies Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 male) -83- 4 4513 7 A7 B7 Description Gong and K-.S? 望 蕊 # 11 翠 翳Printed by the Consumer Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs of the Ministry of Economic Affairs of the People's Republic of China. ?? good. Surface appearance ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ smooth ◎ smooth wearing I feel ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ X Yun 45 1 X The skirt part slips up 1 Pressure when wearing (g / cm2) m C ^ lm cn t 〇 〇- «&lt; N CN mg 荦 J_ | Slot hole loosening (mm) oo 〇 T-ο d 〇oo 〇〇1 Latitude flexural hardness (gf cm2 / cm) 0.026 0.028 0.024 0.023 0.023 0.027 t 0.024 0.042 0.039 0.020 Deflection + ((Warp yarn d) &quot; 2 X Warp: Warp yarn density) 0.005 0.003 0.006 0.008 0.011 0.005 0.006 0.002 0.002 0.007 0.007 fa = 3 ^ iw CN OO inch \ r- ~-ΚΓ \ I —H 1 f— o MD oo 〇 迕 $ = 178/85 193/84 151/72 165/66 137/85 146/72 184/84 169/82 172/83 185/84 excitation friction 4 coefficient 1_ CO rsi CN1 〇L〇CA ο CM 〇CO rsi 〇Ϊ o CS 〇OO CN 〇 OJ 〇1 &lt; CO 〇Intensity {% &gt; κη 〇〇1 / Ί C ^. R ~~ IT) -c &gt; inch HPH o Os Ο CN Inch C? 1 ιΜΜ r- (Inch Oi ^ r CO Inch Inch Inch M2 r ^ Inch f—f cs CN CN CN -¾Mould: H 趦 冠 -84- 1 I --- I--III * I —-Ϊ IJ order 1 I l IIIII ^. (Please read the note on the back first Please fill in this page for the matters needing attention.) This paper size is applicable to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) 445 1 3 7 Λ7 B7 82) The following Examples 4 8 to 5 3 'Weft-oriented yarns are made of polyester-fiber-based false-twisted yarns, and polyester-based filaments and cellulose-based satin weaves For example, the fabrics in the satin weave are all warp fabrics with 3 warps and 5 wefts in the warp direction. [Example 4 8] Polyethylene terephthalate with warp yarns of 50 d / 2 4 f is used. Polyester terephthalate single-heater false twist processing yarn (false twist number 3 3 〇τ / Μ, false twist heater temperature) 2 2 0 ° C) to weave a satin weave with a warp yarn density of 250 yarns / 'inch, a weft yarn density of 85 yarns / inch, and a raw fabric width of 123.0 cm Raw cloth. The obtained raw fabric was subjected to a 7% width shrinking step on the raw fabric at a temperature of 190 ° C X 30 seconds using a pin tenter. Next, use an open soaping type continuous scouring machine to perform scouring according to the conditions described in Table 3. Thereafter, a liquid flow dyeing machine is used to perform dyeing according to the conditions described in Table 1, and then a reduction washing step for removing excess dye is performed and dried. The finishing process is performed according to the conditions described in Table 2 to obtain a lining cloth. Example 4 9: Except that the width shrinkage rate in Example 4 8 was changed to 13%, all other fabrics were processed under the same conditions as in Example 4 8 to obtain lining fabrics. [Example 5 0] -1 ------- I --- --------. WN * -------- ^ (Please read the notes on the back before filling in this (Page) This paper size is in accordance with Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (21ϋ X 297 mm) -85- B7 B7 Printed by the Employee Consumer Cooperative of Binbin Intellectual Property Bureau V. Description of the invention (83) The warp yarn is 5 0 d / 2 4 f polyester-based long fibers (antistatic filaments with a core tip structure) and weft yarns use 50 d / 3 〇f polyester long-fiber filaments with W-section raw yarns to be woven Fabrics with a warp yarn density of 210 yarns / inch, a weft yarn density of 100 yarns / inch, and a raw fabric width of 14.5 cm after weaving. At this time, the w-section wire of the weft yarn has a length and a width ratio of 3 to 1. Father, the weft deflection of the raw fabric was determined to be 3.6% ° The raw fabric was subjected to a width shrinkage of 15 after weaving the fabric with a pin tenter at 190 SC X 30 seconds. % Of processing. And use the open U soap washing continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3 to refine, followed by the liquid flow dyeing machine in accordance with the conditions described in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove more than the dye and dried . The modification step is processed according to the content described in Table 2 to obtain a satin fabric lining. Example 5 1] Except that the width shrinkage rate of Example 50 is changed to 20%, the others are the same as those of Example 5. 0 is carried out under the same conditions to get the lining cloth.

&gt; 施例5 2 J 使用經向絲爲7 5 d/4 5 f之銅胺人織長餓維與、 絳向絲使用5 0 d / 3 0 f之銅胺人纖長纖維，以織製經 向絲密度爲1 6 0絲/英吋、緯向絲密度爲1 〇 〇絲/英 吋、製織後原料織物寬度爲1 42 cm之平組織的原料_ — — — —— — ——---- --------訂------I--^ (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） -86- 於雜»糕Μ Λ S iw卷鱗 妒》漭0谇卡函§辦魂來(Π之&gt; Example 5 2 J A copper amine human weaving long warp yarn with a warp yarn of 7 5 d / 4 5 f was used. A woven copper amine long fiber with a warp yarn of 5 0 d / 3 0 f was used for weaving. Warp yarn density is 160 yarns / inch, weft yarn density is 100 yarns / inch, and the raw material weaving after weaving has a fabric width of 1 42 cm. — — — — — — — — — — --- -------- Order ------ I-^ (Please read the notes on the back before filling in this page) This paper size is applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) -86- Yu Za »Cake M Λ S iw Roll Scale Envy" 0 漭 Card Letter § Do Soul Come (Π 之

/蹲S舞s C &gt;仁卬1 3 q 獅 伸度 (% III 係數 &amp;緯 密度 (絲W) lilii率 ί (¾) 1曲率+1(經 樹2χ經 向絲細 緯度方向 撓曲硬度 (gf * ciAm) 縫孔 鬆脫 (_) 潮5 壓力 (g/cni2) 感覺 1 議'性外觀 00 觸感r 48 5.8 0,20 imi 5.7 0,003 0.025 0.9 35 ◎ ◎ 0 49 9,8 0,21 nm 9,7 0.005 0.022 0.6 31 0 ◎ 0 實 S 50 6.8 0.25 mm 6‘5 0,004 0,013 0,] 32 ◎ ◎ ◎ 施 5! η 0.M 250/105 7,5 0.004 刚 03 30 @ ◎ 0 例 52 6,5 0,20 1110Ϊ 6.2 _ 0,028 0.5 29 ◎ ◎ ◎ 5： i| 7.5 0.21 1丽 1 η 0,005 0.027 0.4 31 ◎ ◎ ◎ (卹卟㈣S3^t) * Μ _ _ lb _ _ _ _ _ 丨 r _ — —應——一_ 445137 A7 ______B7五、發明說明（86) 由表1 5內容可了解本發明中實施例之裏子布料，爲 一種較比較例更不易引起縫孔鬆脫，且動摩擦係數較低平 滑性亦極佳之裏子布料。 【產業上之利用性】 本發明之裏子布料’係提供一種不易引起縫孔鬆脫' 穿用時不具壓迫感 '柔軟及平滑性且觸感良好、裙子向上 滑脫性較低’且可配合外層織物之伸縮性而具有伸縮機能 之由聚醋系長纖維、纖維素系長纖維及其交織物所製得之 伸縮性裏子布料。 (請先閱讀背面之注t事項再填寫本頁) - I I I I — I I 訂·1111111.. 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 本纸張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公t ) -89 -/ Squat S Dance s C &gt; Ren 卬 1 3 q Lion stretch (% III coefficient &amp; weft density (silk W) lilii rate ί (¾) 1 curvature +1 (warp tree 2χ meridian silk fine latitude direction deflection Hardness (gf * ciAm) Slit hole loosening (_) Tide 5 Pressure (g / cni2) Feeling 1 Negotiable appearance 00 Feeling r 48 5.8 0,20 imi 5.7 0,003 0.025 0.9 35 ◎ ◎ 0 49 9,8 0 , 21 nm 9,7 0.005 0.022 0.6 31 0 ◎ 0 Real S 50 6.8 0.25 mm 6'5 0,004 0,013 0,] 32 ◎ ◎ ◎ Shi 5! Η 0.M 250/105 7,5 0.004 Gang 03 30 @ ◎ 0 Example 52 6,5 0,20 1110Ϊ 6.2 _ 0,028 0.5 29 ◎ ◎ ◎ 5: i | 7.5 0.21 1 Li 1 η 0,005 0.027 0.4 31 ◎ ◎ ◎ (shirt porridge S3 ^ t) * Μ _ _ lb _ _ _ _ _ 丨 r _ — ———————_ 445137 A7 ______B7 V. Description of the invention (86) The contents of Table 1 5 can be used to understand the inner fabric of the embodiment of the present invention, which is less likely to cause loose seams than the comparative example. Lining fabric with a low dynamic friction coefficient and excellent smoothness. [Industrial Applicability] The lining fabric according to the present invention provides a pore that is not easy to cause loosening of the pores. It is not soft when worn and is soft and Smooth and touching A stretchy lining fabric made of polyester-based long fibers, cellulose-based long fibers, and interlaced fabrics, which has a good feeling, low slip-up on the skirt, and has the stretching function to match the stretchability of the outer fabric. (Please read the note on the back before filling out this page)-IIII — II Order · 1111111: Printed by the Consumers' Cooperative of Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs The paper size is applicable to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 T) -89-

Claims (1)

445137 A8BSC8D8 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印製 六、申請專利範圍 第88 1 02999號專利申請案 中文申請專利範圍修正本 民國90年5月修正 1、 一種裏子布料，其係由經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維或 纖維素系長纖維，且緯向絲爲聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲 、聚酯系長纖維之原絲或纖維素系長纖維所構成之織物： 其中 &gt; 織物緯度方向之伸度爲5〜1 2¾ ，織物表面之動 摩擦係數爲0 . 20〜0 . 45之範圍，且依下式（1) 所求得之織物緯向絲單位撓曲係數値爲0 . 0 0 3〜 0.013， 緯向絲之撓曲率/經向絲密度X (經向絲之纖度）U2 …（1)。 2、 如申請專利範圍第1項記載之裏子布料，其中， 織物爲平織物，且織物表面之動摩擦係數爲0 . 2 2〜 ◦ . 45，又依式（1)所求得之値爲0 . 004〜 0 . 0 1 3之範圍。 3、 如申請專利範圍第1項記載之裏子布料，其中， 織物爲斜紋織物，且織物表面之動摩擦係數爲〇 . 2 0〜 Q . 38，又依式（1)所求得之値爲0 . 003〜 0 . 0 1 1之範圍。 4 '如申請專利範圍第1項記載之裏子布料，其中， 織物爲緻紋織物，且織物表面之動摩擦係數爲〇 . 2 0〜 0 . 35，又織物緯向絲單位撓曲係數値爲〇.〇〇；3〜 0 . 0 0 9之範圍。 5、如申請專利範圍第1至4項中任一項記載之裏子 (諝先M讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 展·------訂· ！ I I n I 線 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐〉 8888 ABaD 445137 六、申請專利範圍 布料，其中，織物之緯度方向撓曲硬度爲0 . 〇 3 0 g f • c m 2 / c m 以下。 6、 如申請專利範圍第1至4項中任一項記載之裏子 布料，其爲緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲所構成 之織物，且織物之緯度方向撓曲硬度爲0 . 〇25gf · c in 2 / c m 以下。 7、 如申請專利範圍第1至4項中ίΐ 一項記載之裏子 布料，其爲緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維之原絲所構成之織物 ’且織物之緯度方向撓曲硬度爲0 . 020g f · cm2/ c m以下。 8、 一種衣服，其係具有申請專利範圍第1至7項中 任一項記載之裏子布料》 9、 一種如申請專利範圍第1至5或7項中任一項記 載之裏子布料之製造方法，其係由經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維 或纖維素系長纖維，且緯向絲爲聚酯系長纖維之原絲織製 原料織物之過程中，於精練前或精練後以對原料布寬度爲 5〜3 0 %寬度收縮之狀態，施以1 6 0 °C〜2 1 0 °C之 熱處理爲特徵。 1 0、一種如申請專利範圍第1至6項中任一項記載 之裏子布料之製造方法，其係由經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維或 纖維素系長纖維，且緯向絲爲聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲 織^織物之過程中，於精練前或精練後以對原料布寬度爲 5〜1 5 %寬度收縮之狀態，施以 1 60°C〜2 1 0°C之熱處理爲特徵。 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） ，2 - ---------— — — — — ^ I (請先閱讀背面之注ί項再填窝本頁) 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 3 A8B8C8D8 六、申請專利範圍 —1 1、一種如申請專利範圍第1至5項中任一項記載 之裏子布料之製造方法，其係由經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維或 纖維素系長纖維，且緯向絲爲纖維素系長纖維織製織物之 過程中’於原料布之狀態下施加水分後，該織物以對原料 布寬度爲5〜1 5%寬度收縮之狀態，施以1 0 〇°C〜 2 1 0°C之熱處理爲特徵。 1 2、一種如申請專利範圍第1至&amp;項中任一項記載 之裏子布料之製造方法，其係由經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維或 纖維素系長纖維，且緯向絲爲醋酸纖維系長纖維織製原料 織物之過程中，於精練前以對原料布寬度爲5〜1 5%寬 度收縮之狀態，施以1 6 0Ϊ〜2 0 0 °C之熱處理爲特徵 ------------I 农！ (锖先Μ讀背面之注f項再填寫本頁) 訂---------線 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐） -3 - 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 民國90年05月修正 A7 B7 4 45 1 #f8102999號專利申請案 中文說明書修正頁 五、發明說明（6 ) 本發明者們，基於前記之了解而對構成裏子布料之織 物的緯向拉伸性開始進行硏究，而硏究出在構成裏子布料 之織物中對緯向絲之撓曲率作適當的選擇時，即pj達成本 發明Η的之長纖維裏子布料，因时完成了本發明。 即本發明之Η的，係爲一種經向絲使用聚酯系長纖維 或纖維素系長纖維，緯向絲使用聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工 絲或聚酯系長纖維之原絲或纖維素系長纖維所構成之織物 。該織物之緯度方向之拉仲度爲5〜1 2 % ，織物表面之 動摩擦係數爲0 · 2 0〜0 · 4 5之範圍，依下式（1 )所求得之織物緯向絲單位撓曲係數値爲0 . 〇 〇 3〜 0 . 013之裏子布料。 緯向絲之撓曲率/{經向絲密度X (經向絲之纖度…（1) 本發明之裏子·布料可廣泛作爲平織物、斜紋織物、緞 紋織物等裏-/·布料織物之織物組織以供其編織爲織物ϋ 本發明之裏子布料’經向絲以前記特定之長纖維絲， 緯向絲以聚酯系Μ纖維之假撚加工絲或聚酯系员纖維所編 織所得之織物，可以包含先予以染色’並於精練前或精練 後以對原料織物寬度爲5〜3 0 %之寬度收縮率之狀態下 ，經過1 6 0 &quot;C〜2 1 0 °C之熱處理之加工方式下製得。 又，經向絲以前記将定之長纖維絲’緯向絲以纖維素 系Μ纖維編織所得之織物時’可以包含先予以染色’並對 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 裝 - ---!|訂· —--11---产！ 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS&gt;A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 〜 j -9 - 445 1 fr 第88102999號專利申請案 中文說明書修正頁 民國89 f 7月 呈 &amp;稱：裏子布_料及其製造方$ 本發明係爲 纖維，且緯向絲 纖維之原絲或纖 緯度方向之伸度 0 · 2 〜0 . 4 緯向絲單位撓曲 布料。 緯向絲之撓曲率 本發明之裏 且穿著時可防止 之使用例則例如 裏子布料。本發 纖維或纖維素系 製而得生布，並 生布寬度作5〜 織物於1 6 0 °C 一種經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維或纖維素系長 爲聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲、聚酯系長 維素系長纖維所構成之織物；其中，織物 爲5〜12% ，織物表面之動摩擦係數爲 5之範圍，且依下式（1 )所求得之織物 係數値爲0.003〜0.013之裏子 /經向絲密度X (經向絲之纖度）^ …（1) 子布料，爲一種具有優良之肌膚潤滑性， 壓迫感及抑制縫孔滑脫之裏子布料。典型 ，可作爲抑制裙子上滑而附於裙子內部之 明之裏子布料係將作爲經向絲之聚酯系長 長纖維，與作爲緯向絲之聚酯系長纖維織 對所得之生布織物以對精練前或精練後之 3 0 %之寬度收縮後’再將經收縮寬度之 〜2 1 0 °C下熱處理而製得。 英丈發明摘要（發明之名稱 I I HI 1 - I - I an 1^1 (請先閱讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁各欄) 訂 I -線 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作社印製 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標隼（0灿）八4規格（210/297公釐〕2- 445137 A8BSC8D8 經濟部智慧財產局員工消費合作杜印製 六、申請專利範圍 第88 1 02999號專利申請案 中文申請專利範圍修正本 民國90年5月修正 1、 一種裏子布料，其係由經向絲爲聚酯系長纖維或 纖維素系長纖維，且緯向絲爲聚酯系長纖維之假撚加工絲 、聚酯系長纖維之原絲或纖維素系長纖維所構成之織物： 其中 &gt; 織物緯度方向之伸度爲5〜1 2¾ ，織物表面之動 摩擦係數爲0 . 20〜0 . 45之範圍，且依下式（1) 所求得之織物緯向絲單位撓曲係數値爲0 . 0 0 3〜 0.013， 緯向絲之撓曲率/經向絲密度X (經向絲之纖度）U2 …（1)。 2、 如申請專利範圍第1項記載之裏子布料，其中， 織物爲平織物，且織物表面之動摩擦係數爲0 . 2 2〜 ◦ . 45，又依式（1)所求得之値爲0 . 004〜 0 . 0 1 3之範圍。 3、 如申請專利範圍第1項記載之裏子布料，其中， 織物爲斜紋織物，且織物表面之動摩擦係數爲〇 . 2 0〜 Q . 38，又依式（1)所求得之値爲0 . 003〜 0 . 0 1 1之範圍。 4 '如申請專利範圍第1項記載之裏子布料，其中， 織物爲緻紋織物，且織物表面之動摩擦係數爲〇 . 2 0〜 0 . 35，又織物緯向絲單位撓曲係數値爲〇.〇〇；3〜 0 . 0 0 9之範圍。 5、如申請專利範圍第1至4項中任一項記載之裏子 (諝先M讀背面之注意事項再填寫本頁) 展·------訂· ！ I I n I 線 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準（CNS)A4規格（210 X 297公釐〉445137 A8BSC8D8 Consumer Cooperation of Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Du printed 6. Application for Patent Scope No. 88 1 02999 Patent Application for Chinese Application for Amendment of the Chinese Patent Amendment May 1990 1. A kind of lining cloth Fabrics composed of polyester filaments or cellulose filaments, and weft yarns are false-twisted filaments of polyester filaments, raw filaments of polyester filaments, or cellulose filaments: &gt; The elongation in the latitude direction of the fabric is 5 to 1 2¾, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is in the range of 0.20 to 0.45, and the unit weft yarn unit deflection coefficient obtained according to the following formula (1) 値It is 0.03 to 0.013, the deflection of the weft yarn / the density of the warp yarn X (the fineness of the warp yarn) U2 (1). 2. As described in item 1 of the patent application, the fabric is a plain fabric, and the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is 0.2 2 to ◦ 45, and 値 obtained according to formula (1) is The range is from 0.004 to 0.03. 3. The lining fabric described in item 1 of the scope of the patent application, wherein the fabric is a twill fabric, and the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is 0.2 to Q. 38, and 依 obtained according to formula (1) is The range is from 0.003 to 0.001. 4 'As described in item 1 of the scope of patent application, wherein the fabric is a textured fabric, and the surface friction coefficient of the fabric is 0.2 0 to 0.35, and the fabric weft yarn unit deflection coefficient 値 is 〇〇〇〇; 3 ~ 0. 09 range. 5. As described in any of the items 1 to 4 of the scope of patent application (谞 M read the precautions on the back before filling out this page). II n I line The size of this paper is in accordance with Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm> 8888 ABaD 445137) 6. The scope of application for patents, in which the flexural hardness of the fabric in the latitude direction is 0. 〇3 0 gf • cm 2 / cm or less 6. The lining fabric described in any one of items 1 to 4 of the scope of patent application, which is a woven fabric composed of false twisted processing yarns of polyester-based long fibers in the weft direction, and the fabric The flexural hardness in the latitudinal direction is 0.25 gf · c in 2 / cm or less. 7. As described in the item 1 to 4 of the patent application, the lining fabric is polyester, which uses polyester-based long for weft yarns. A fabric made of fiber strands and the flexural hardness of the fabric in the latitudinal direction is 0. 020g f · cm2 / cm or less. 8. A garment having any of the items described in claims 1 to 7 Lizi cloth "9. A method for manufacturing a lizi cloth as described in any one of claims 1 to 5 or 7 of the scope of patent application, wherein the warp yarns are polyester long fibers or cellulose long fibers, The weft yarn is made of polyester long fiber In the process of raw fabrics, before or after scouring, it is characterized by applying a heat treatment of 160 ° C to 2 10 ° C in a state where the width of the raw fabric is 5 to 30% of the width. For example, the manufacturing method of lining fabric described in any one of claims 1 to 6 of the patent application scope, wherein the warp yarns are polyester long fibers or cellulose long fibers, and the weft yarns are polyester long In the process of false twist processing of silk and fabrics, before or after scouring, the width of the raw fabric is reduced by 5 to 15%, and a heat treatment of 1 60 ° C to 2 10 ° C is applied. Features. This paper size is in accordance with Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm), 2----------— — — — — ^ I (Please read the note on the back first, and then (Fill in this page) Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs 3 A8B8C8D8 VI. Scope of Patent Application-1 1. A manufacturing method of lining fabric as described in any one of the scope of claims 1 to 5, The warp yarns are polyester long fibers or cellulose long fibers, and the weft yarns are long cellulose fibers In the process of fabric production, after applying moisture in the state of the raw material cloth, the fabric is shrunk to a width of 5 ~ 1 5% of the width of the raw material cloth, and is subjected to a heat treatment of 100 ° C ~ 2 110 ° C as Features 1. A method of manufacturing a lining fabric as described in any one of the scope of claims 1 to &, wherein the warp yarns are polyester-based or cellulose-based long fibers, and In the process of weaving raw fabrics made of acetate fiber-based long fibers, before the scouring, the raw fabric is contracted with a width of 5 to 15%, and a heat treatment of 160 ° C to 200 ° C is applied. ------------ I Farmer! (I read the note f on the back before filling this page) Order --------- Printed by the Consumers' Cooperative of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Online Economics The paper size applies to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) -3-Printed by the Consumer Cooperatives of the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs in May, 1990 Amendment A7 B7 4 45 1 # f8102999 Patent Application Chinese Specification Revision Page V. Description of the Invention (6) The inventors Based on the understanding of the previous note, we started to investigate the zonal stretch of the fabric constituting the lining cloth, and when we found out the appropriate selection of the deflection of the zonal yarn in the fabric forming the lining cloth, that is, pj reached the long fiber lining cloth of the invention, and completed the invention in time. That is, the invention is a kind of warp yarn using polyester-based long fiber or cellulose-based long fiber, and weft yarn using polyester-based long-fiber false-twisted yarn or polyester-based long fiber. Cellulose is a fabric made of long fibers. The latitude in the latitude direction of the fabric is 5 to 12%, and the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is in the range of 0. 2 0 to 0. 45. The unit weft of the fabric is obtained according to the following formula (1). The curvature coefficient 値 is from 0. 〇03 to 0. 013. Deflection of weft yarns / {Warp yarn density X (Density of warp yarns ... (1) The inner fabric of the present invention can be widely used as plain fabric, twill fabric, satin fabric, etc.- The fabric structure is used for weaving as a fabric. The inner fabric of the present invention, warp yarn, is a long filament yarn previously described, and the weft yarn is knitted with polyester M fiber false twisted processing yarn or polyester fiber. The fabric may include dyeing first, and before or after refining, with a width shrinkage ratio of 5 to 30% of the width of the raw fabric, subjected to a heat treatment of 1 6 0 &quot; C ~ 2 1 0 ° C It can be obtained by processing method. In addition, the warp warp yarn has previously stated that the fixed-length fiber yarn 'weft yarn is woven with cellulose-based M fiber', and can be dyed first, and (please read the note on the back first) Please fill in this page for more details) Packing----! | Order · —-11 --- Production! This paper size applies to Chinese national standard (CNS &gt; A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) ~ j -9-445 1 fr No. 88102999 Patent Application Chinese Specification Revised Page Republic of 89 f July &amp; : Linzi cloth_Material and its manufacturing method $ The present invention is a fiber, and the weft of the weft yarn fiber or the elongation of the fiber in the latitude direction is 0 · 2 ~ 0.4. The weft yarn unit flexes the cloth. The weft yarn Deflection The use cases that can be prevented when wearing the present invention are, for example, lining cloth. The hair fiber or cellulose is used to make green cloth, and the width of the green cloth is 5 ~. The fabric is at 160 ° C. The silk is a polyester-based long fiber or a cellulose-based false-twisted processing yarn and a polyester-based long-vitamin-based long fiber; the fabric is 5 to 12%, and the surface of the fabric is 5 to 12%. The coefficient of dynamic friction is in the range of 5, and the fabric coefficient 依 obtained according to the following formula (1) is 0.003 ~ 0.013 linse / warp yarn density X (the fineness of the warp yarn) ^ (1) The sub cloth is A lining fabric that has excellent skin lubricity, pressure, and inhibits the slippage of the seams. Typically, the lining fabric that can be attached to the inside of the skirt to prevent slipping on the skirt will be made of polyester with warp yarns. Long fiber, woven fabric obtained by weaving polyester long fiber as weft yarn The object is made by shrinking the width of 30% before or after refining, and then heat-treating at a temperature of ~ 2 0 ° C after shrinking. Abstract of the invention (the name of the invention II HI 1-I-I an 1 ^ 1 (Please read the notes on the back before filling in the columns on this page) Order I-Printed by the Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, Employee Consumer Cooperatives. This paper is printed in accordance with China National Standard (0 Can) 8 4 specifications (210 / 297 mm] 2- 445137 A8BSC8D8 Consumer cooperation of Intellectual Property Bureau of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Du printed 6. Application for Patent Scope No. 88 1 02999 Patent Application for Chinese Application Amendment of the Chinese Patent Amendment May 1990 1. A kind of lining cloth , Which consists of warp yarns of polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers, and weft-oriented yarns are false-twisted yarns of polyester-based long fibers, raw yarns of polyester-based long fibers, or cellulose-based long fibers Constructed fabric: where &gt; the latitude of the fabric in the latitude direction is 5 to 1 2¾, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is in the range of 0.20 to 0.45, and the fabric weft is obtained according to the following formula (1) Wire unit deflection coefficient 値 is 0. 0 0 3 ~ 0.01 3. Deflection of weft yarn / density of warp yarn X (fineness of warp yarn) U2 (1). 2. As described in item 1 of the patent application, the fabric is a plain fabric, and the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is 0.2 2 to ◦ 45, and 値 obtained according to formula (1) is The range is from 0.004 to 0.03. 3. The lining fabric described in item 1 of the scope of the patent application, wherein the fabric is a twill fabric, and the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is 0.2 to Q. 38, and 依 obtained according to formula (1) is The range is from 0.003 to 0.001. 4 'As described in item 1 of the scope of patent application, wherein the fabric is a textured fabric, and the surface friction coefficient of the fabric is 0.2 0 to 0.35, and the fabric weft yarn unit deflection coefficient 値 is 〇〇〇〇; 3 ~ 0. 09 range. 5. As described in any of the items 1 to 4 of the scope of patent application (谞 M read the precautions on the back before filling out this page). I I n I Line This paper is sized for China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm)
TW88102999A 1998-10-14 1999-02-26 Lining cloth and method for producing the same TW445137B (en)

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